Musings on the Vine

A Collection of Thoughts, Suggestions and Opinions about Wine

June 24, 2004

Volume 3, No. 3

Featured Region: Germany The wines of Germany are perhaps some of the most misunderstood wines in the world. The reasons for this common misunderstanding are numerous. For one, the German wine label is, without a doubt the most difficult and confusing label to understand. Number two, for many people, their only Originally, I was going to exposure to German wine has been the singularly awful Liebfraumilch (Blue crow about my newly Nun and Black Tower), wines of low quality with cloyingly sweet palates. acquired status (CWE) in this introduction, but instead I Number three, German wine laws, more so than most European countries are have decided to write about confusing and rely heavily on an understanding of the German language. our recent sojourn out west, to a place that can only be With this month’s feature it’s my hope to clear up many of these described as “our little piece misunderstandings and introduce my readers to the many wonderful wines of paradise”: the Grand being produced in Germany today. Teton National Park in Wyoming. What, you may Let’s start with an overview of German wine geography. It is a wonder that ask, was so wonderful about this most recent trip (our grapes ripen, let alone grow in Germany given the northern latitude and third in as many years)? tough winter climate. For this reason, all of the best wine producing regions Well, let me tell you. First, in Germany are found along rivers and lakes. The moderating effects of the scenery is magnificent. these bodies of water, combined with vineyards planted on south-facing Every view is a picturesque slopes allow Germany to grow and ripen grapes suitable for winemaking. vista, a veritable feast for the eyes with abundant flora and fauna. When you’re in the There are thirteen major winemaking regions in Germany, referred to as Tetons, you truly experience anbaugebiete. Of these thirteen regions, eleven are located near the western the beauty of America’s border clustered along the Rhine River and its many tributaries (such as the “purple mountain majesties.” Mosel and the Ruwer). The other two regions are found in what was once Second, our lodgings at The Jenny Lake Lodge were again called East Germany. The thirteen regions are: Ahr, Baden, Franken, simply magnificent. Angela Hessische Bergstrasse, Mittlerhein, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Nahe, Rheingau, Beaumont and her terrific Rheinhessen, Pfalz, Wurttemberg, Saale-Unstrut and Sachen. Of these, the staff have created the perfect most popular and probably most prevalent are the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, setting within which to enjoy Rheingau, Rheinhessen and Nahe. the wondrous beauty of the mountains. Immaculate lodgings and highly attentive As you might expect, because of the cool climate in Germany, the majority of staff cater to your every wine production is in white grapes. Because of the propensity of slate whim. A full range of throughout many of the vineyards along the Rhine, German wines can have a activities from hiking to characteristic flinty, gun smoke quality on the palate. This characteristic is a mountain trail horseback riding make for full days of natural complement to the numerous white varieties grown in Germany. The fun. varieties selected for propagation tend to be vines that are hardy and better

(continued on page 2) able to survive the rigors of Germany’s often-harsh winter weather.

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Best of all, though is the food. Principal white varieties are: Riesling, Müller-Thurgau and Sylvaner. A Wonderfully sumptuous menus small amount of red wine is produced, the most noted being Spätburgunder artfully created and prepared by (known elsewhere as Pinot Noir). Oddly enough, Germany’s finest Chef du Cuisine Joshua Conrad. expression of Pinot Noir is grown in one of its most northerly areas: Ahr. The five course dinner menus were simply divine with near perfect treatments of foie gras, Now let’s look at those pesky German wine laws… German wine laws consist of two components: location and ripeness, with each having an escargot, venison and rack of lamb. The cuisine is interrelated hierarchy, hence the complexity and confusion. First location. complimented by a bevy of As I stated previously, Germany has thirteen major regions called superb wait staff, all highly professional without being anbaugebiete. Within each of these regions is a subset of lesser districts stuffy; friendly, attentive and called bereiche. Currently there are thirty-nine different bereiche spread always eager to please. amongst Germany’s major regions. These districts are further broken into Breakfast and dinner were general sites called grosslagen. Currently there are one hundred and sixty always relaxing and enjoyable. Among our favorite staffers (in grosslagen varying in size from 125 acres to over 5,000 acres within the no particular order): Sam, K.C., different bereiche. Lastly, these general sites are broken down further into Mary Kathryn, Lucas, Emma, individual vineyards called einzellagen. There are well over two thousand Jim, Robert, Joey, Jeremy, Lee six hundred einzellagen spread throughout the many grosslagen, with one of Ann, Mary Sue and Jason. Lastly, it wouldn’t be a the smallest and most famous being the Doctor vineyard in Bernkastel. memorable vacation without the Generally, there is no way of knowing which location a wine is listing on its wine! The new wine list at the label unless one checks a wine map. Anbaugebiete are almost always listed lodge is a true compliment to the on a label, but a winery may list the bereiche, grosslagen or einzellagen, or five-star cuisine, filled with numerous great wines from combinations thereof. Very confusing indeed. However, it’s safe to say, as incredible sleepers like the Vega in most countries, the more specific the location listed, the better the Sindao Tempranillo to the presumed quality of the wine. awesomely hedonistic Pio Cesare Barolo. Angela has Ripeness. German wines in addition to listing one or more locations (within worked tirelessly to assemble a the aforementioned hierarchy) are all ranked according to quality. Further really first class list. And then there’s Dornans, a true oasis of delineation is made at the highest quality level, where a sub-ranking of grape wine and spirits literally in the ripeness is used to further specify quality. The German wine quality middle of nowhere (well, Moose, hierarchy consists of four levels, in ascending order from lowest to highest WY isn’t exactly nowhere, but it quality: Taflewein (Table Wine), Landwein (Land Wine), Qualitätswein isn’t quite Gotham, either.) Dennis was exceedingly helpful Bestimmer Anbaugebiet (QbA) (Quality Wine from a Specific Region), and in steering me to some Qualitätswein Mit Pradikat (QmP) (Quality Wine with Distinction). unbelievable wine finds. Great Generally, the best and most prevalent wine sold in the US is either QbA or values like the Hells Canyon QmP. In both cases, an impartial lab within the region tests the wines and if Retriever Red and Deer Slayer Syrah from Idaho (yes, Idaho…) found satisfactory, the wines are issued a certificate number called an Outstanding Dolcetto and Amtliche Prüfungsnummer or AP number. While this is helpful, remember Tempranillo from Abacela that those dreadful Liebfraumilch wines were certified QbA wines! The Vineyards in Oregon (yes, QmP level of wine is further broken into quality levels by grape ripeness. In Oregon…) and countless others order of least ripe to ripest the six levels are: from Francis Tannahill, also from Oregon (make sure you check out our Musings Wine Kabinett – Wines made from fully ripe grapes, dry, off dry or sweet. Reviews for complete Spätlese – Wines made from “late harvest” grapes, dry, off dry or sweet. descriptions.) If you want to Auslese – Wines made from bunch selected, “late harvest” grapes, dry, enjoy a truly memorable off dry or sweet. vacation, we can’t emphasize enough how great it is to spend Beerenauslese (BA) – Wines made from individually selected “late a week in the Grand Tetons at harvest” grapes, sweet. the Jenny Lake Lodge. Eiswein – Ice Wine; Made from BA quality grapes, frozen on the vine, Cheers! Paul & Betsy then crushed, sweet.

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Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) – Wines made from individually selected “late harvest” grapes affected by noble rot (edelfäule), very sweet.

While not always the case, the sweetness of finished wines is usually in proportion to the ripeness level. For instance, Kabinett wines are usually a lot drier than Auslese wines, but this is not always the case. Generally speaking, because most grapes grown in Germany have a higher degree of acid than grapes grown in warmer climates, most winemakers will intentionally leave a small amount of residual sugar in all of their wines to help balance and temper the acidity. However, in the QmP level of wine, there are very strict guidelines defining the limitation of residual sugar as a “Wine is a living specific function of total acidity. This means that at the QmP level, the blousy, cloying and flabby attributes one finds with overly sweet, imbalanced liquid containing wines won’t exist. The sweetness will always be in balance with the no preservatives. proportion of total acidity. Presumably. Its life cycle comprises youth, Where all of the above information comes into play is on the wine label and maturity, old age, if the above wine laws, regional hierarchies and other arcane information and death. When haven’t confused you yet, then the German wine label certainly will. First, not treated with most German wine labels are printed in German, with many using a hard-to- reasonable respect read gothic script. Second, the use of the region, district, general sites and it will sicken and individual vineyards is not specific, making a mess of the information die.” presented. To help matters out, look for the following things:

Look for wines with the Qualitätswein Mit Pradikat or QmP – Julia Child designation on the label. Look for wines with an Amtliche Prüfungsnummer or AP. NR. on the label. At the very least, you should see the Anbaugebiet listed; keep a note of the best and most famous. If the wine is a QmP, look for the accompanying ripeness level; make a note of the prior list. Look for the grape variety and remember that Riesling is “king” in Germany. You may see the words Erzeugerabfüllung or Gutsabfüllung on the label, both loosely translate to “Estate Bottled,” a potential mark of quality. The words Trocken (dry) or Halbtrocken (half dry) if present will give a hint to overall sweetness.

If you approach German wines with an open mind and an open palate, you will likely be pleasantly surprised by the quality and appeal these lovely wines possess.

For the first time, Musings on the Vine hosted a private tasting of eleven German wines. The wines ranged from QbA through QmP, and were primarily Riesling. The wines were tasted and enjoyed by a panel of ten dedicated friends of Musings on the Vine. The following are a summary of tasting notes and thoughts from the group.

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2000 August Kesseler Cuvée Max Spatburgunder, QbA Trocken, Rheingau ($43.99/bottle)

A favorite amongst the tasting panel, although some found the wine to be too “earthy.” Ripe, fragrant nose with heady aromas of raspberry, strawberry, sour cherry and wild flowers. Some wet stone, flint and earthy hints some through. Medium-bodied with firm acidity and firm tannins. Well balanced with an intense core of cherry fruit. Hints of roasted game, tar, black pepper and vanilla permeate the palate. Smooth with a long finish and persistent hints of black pepper and roasted game on the aftertaste. A lovely example of Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir). Drinking well, but will improve for another 5 “A German wine label to 7 years, at least. Expensive, but very rare. is one of the things life's too short for, a 2001 Sybille Kuntz Gold Quadrat Riesling Gutsabfüllung daunting testimony to that peculiar nation's QbA Trocken Mosel-Saar-Ruwer ($19.99/bottle) love of detail and Slightly lees-y nose with hints of lemongrass, melon and honey. Light-bodied organization.” with racy acidity, tart. Good balance with crisp, searing acidity and very tart, lemon and green apple flavors. Refreshing and dry, but not to - Kingsley Amis, in everyone’s liking. Moderate length with a clean, simple finish. Drinking “Everyday Drinking” well now, will not improve. 2002 Dr. Loosen Riesling QbA Mosel-Saar-Ruwer ($9.99/bottle) Soft, floral nose with slightly “musty” notes. Wet stone and mineral hints. Light-bodied with moderate acidity, crisp. Well balanced with fruity sweetness and flavors of honey, apricot and green apples. Moderate length with an uncomplicated, simply sweet finish – not cloying. Drinking well now, will not improve. Excellent value. 2002 Kunstler Riesling Gutsabfüllung QbA Rheingau ($15.99/bottle) Tight, soft nose with hints of marzipan, burnt sugar and sweet, lavender perfume. Light-bodied with moderate acidity. Well balanced with persistent almond paste and subtle apricot, petrol, bees wax notes. Moderate length with a pronounced sweet aftertaste that is soft and floral. Drinking well now, will not improve. 2002 Fitz-Ritter Riesling Gutsabfüllung QmP Kabinett Dürkheimer Hochbenn Pfalz ($10.99/bottle) Soft, floral nose with melon, lemongrass, peach and petrol hints. Light- bodied with moderate acidity. Well balanced with crisp, clean fruit – pretty. Honey, ginger and lemon notes. Moderate length with soft, floral hints on the aftertaste. Drinking well now, should hold for another 1 to 2 years. Good value.

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2001 Schloss Schönborn Riesling Gutsabfüllung QmP Kabinett Erbacher Marcobrunn Rheingau ($13.99/bottle) Another favorite of the tasting panel. Deep, honeyed nose with light caramel and malt notes – unusual, but alluring. Medium-bodied with firm acidity – crisp. Well balanced with rich fruit; apricot, pears and honey with pretty floral hints. Long finish with a clean and softly fragrant aftertaste. Drinking well now and should hold for another 3 to 4 years. Excellent value.

2002 G&M Machmer Gewürztraminer Gutsabfüllung QmP Spätlese Bechtheimer Stein Rheinhessen ($9.99/bottle) Well-liked by the tasting panel, although most preferred Alsatian Gewürztraminer to this German bottling. Perfumed nose with lovely hints of lychee, guava, papaya and ginger root. Medium-bodied with firm acidity; crisp. Well balanced with lush honey on the palate – lemon curd and rose petals. Moderate length with beeswax and honeysuckle on the aftertaste. Drinking well now and should continue to hold for another 2 to “I have lived 3 years. Superb value. temperately ... I double the doctor's recommendation 2001 Dr. Loosen Riesling Erzeugerabfüllung QmP of a glass and a half of wine a day and even Spätlese Graacher Himmelreich Mosel-Saar-Ruwer treble it with a friend.” ($37.99/bottle) Flint and mineral on the nose with hints of wet stone and lemongrass – - Thomas Jefferson citrus aromas. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity – soft. Well balanced with honey, peach, petrol and beeswax – some citrus notes. Moderate length, a bit tight and restrained. Overall nice. Drinking well and should improve over the next 3 to 5 years. Expensive.

2001 Franz Karl Schmitt Riesling Gutsagbfüllung QmP Spätlese Niersteiner Hipping Rheinhessen ($12.99/bottle) Well-liked by the tasting panel. Lemony nose with wet stone and mineral hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity. Well balanced with nice apricot, peach fruit and honeyed sweetness - lush. Moderate length with persistent honey notes on the aftertaste. Drinking well and should improve for another 3 to 5 years. Excellent value.

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1995 Weingut Toni Jost Riesling Gutsabfüllung QmP Auslese Bacharacher Hahn Mittelrhein ($31.49/bottle)

The pick of the tasting panel (along with the other Auslese below). Ripe, honeyed nose with light petrol, beeswax and lemon curd hints. Medium- bodied with firm acidity – superb structure. Well balanced with a lush core of honeyed fruit. Marvelously complex with vanilla, nutmeg and honeysuckle – unctuous and drippy – not cloying in the least. Long finish with intense sweetness right to the end – crisp and lemony on the very aftertaste. Magnificent. Drinking well and should continue to improve for another 5 to 7 years. Good value considering what this wine represents.

2001 Emrich Schönleber Riesling Gutsabfüllung QmP Auslese Menzinger Halenberg Nahe ($35.99/bottle)

Tight nose with floral, mineral, asparagus and petrol hints – pretty but young. Medium-bodied with firm acidity – good structure. Well balanced with apple, honey and wildflower notes. Moderate, restrained finish with lemon curd, peach and melon on the aftertaste. Needs time to open up and develop, should improve over the next 5 to 7 years. The Wine Spectator really enjoyed this wine and rated it 97 out of 100, with maturity around 2025. They clearly saw something that I did not – hence the subjective nature of this pastime.

The following wines are a few “notable potables” that I’ve tried over the last few months. They’re from Notable Potables: different countries, some are red and some are white, but they all The Reds left a distinct, favorable impression on me.

2002 Nobul Tempranillo, Madrid, Spain ($5.99/bottle) R ipe, fresh cherry nose. Youthful and loaded with grapey aromas and hints of black pepper and minerals. Medium-bodied with low acidity and firm, very dry tannins. Good balance, slightly tart - rough. Strawberry and cherry fruit, very young and fresh. Moderate length with a simple finish. Drink now, will only marginally improve with time. Great value for an everyday "pizza wine."

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2000 Quinta da Romiera Castelao, Palmela, Portugal ($7.99/bottle) R ipe, sweet cherry nose. Allspice, cedar and floral hints. Medium-bodied with low acidity. Spicy, strawberry fruit. Smooth and well balanced with good structure and firm tannins. Moderate length with black pepper on the aftertaste. Very nice. An especially good value at less than $8.00. Should improve for another 2 to 3 years.

2003 Graham Beck “Pinno” Pinotage, Western Cape, South Africa ($9.99/bottle) R ipe, full nose with hints of berry, cherry and plum aromas. Full-bodied with moderate acidity and moderate tannin. Good balance with intense fruit core - a little rough, need time. Long finish with a persistent dried fruit, smoked meat aftertaste. Should improve for the next 2 to 3 years. Great

value.

2002 Lawson Ranch Syrah, Monterey County, California

“Nothing is so ($9.99/bottle) effective in keeping Super ripe, jammy nose with plum, black berry and spice hints. Full-bodied one young and full of with moderate acidity and moderate tannin. Well balanced with a dense lust as a core of cherry fruit. Hints of dark chocolate, tar and lavender. Long finish discriminating palate with clove and black pepper on the aftertaste. Drinking well now, but should thoroughly satisfied at hold for another 2 to 3 years. Excellent value. least once a day.”

- Angelo Pelligrini, in

“The Unprejudiced

Palate” Notable Potables:

The Whites

Italian whites were made for summer! While only three of the following are from that sun-drenched land, all are made from grapes of Italian origin. Not for aging and not for complex analysis, the following wines are perfect for sitting on the back porch and relaxing!

2000 Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy ($12.99/bottle) B right nose with mineral and grassy notes. Subtle citrus hints blend with a touch of vanilla and allspice (Oak?). Medium-bodied with relatively low acidity. Good balance, although a little more acid would make for a crisper, cleaner finish. Lemon, grass, honeysuckle and wet gravel blend on the

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palate. Moderate length with soft vanilla and floral notes on the aftertaste. Weightier than what I'm accustomed to in Italian Pinot Blanc. Not for aging, drink now. Good value.

2002 Colterenzio “Praedium Weisshaus” Pinot Bianco, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy ($14.99/bottle)

Minerally nose with hints of grass, lemon and citrus aromas. Medium- bodied with moderate acidity. Good balance, lemony with soft pear and melon notes. Flinty and slightly tart, but pleasantly refreshing. Moderate length with a clean finish. Not for aging, drink now.

“The soft extractive note of an aged cork 2001 Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio, Colli Orientali del being withdrawn has Friuli, Fruili, Italy ($21.99/bottle) the true sound of a Copper colored with faint rose hints, bright. Tight nose with almost no man opening his heart.” perceptible fragrance or aroma, just subtle hints of apple and pears. Medium-bodied with low acidity. Strong apple flavors with a pleasant fruit

- William S. Benwell, sweetness. Well balanced. Moderate finish with some lingering complexity on the aftertaste. Improved greatly once open for a while. Not for aging. in “Journe y to Wine in Victoria”

2001 Luna Vineyards Pinot Grigio, Napa Valley, California ($21.99/bottle)

Ripe, fleshy nose with almost honey-like aromas. Light-bodied but the complexity of the palate adds weight to give the wine more presence. Citrus flavors with nutty-vanilla hints and traces of apricots and mineral notes. Moderate finish that hangs slightly on the palate. I was not as impressed as my compatriots at the Wine Spectator, but that’s the beauty in wine tasting, no two people will see any given wine the came way.

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Desert Island Selections:

While I am the first to advocate for a lack of bias in wine appreciation, sometimes I can’t resist. Yes, all of the following Desert Island Selection wines are from the Rhone valley in France, three in fact are from Chateauneuf-du-Pape. My excuse? They’re all really terrific and worth searching for!

2001 Philippe Faury, Condrieu, France ($36.99/bottle) Ripe, spicy nose with loads of melon, lemon and honey aromas - simply beautiful. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity - crisp and clean. Superb balance with hints of vanilla, rose water, pear and sweet cream - lovely. A near perfect You know the game expression of the Viognier grape. Endless length with a persistent, creamy where you pretend aftertaste. Drinking well, but should hold for another 2 to 3 years. Small that you are production - will be tough to find, but well worth the search. stranded alone on a desert island for the rest of your life and 2001 Domaine de la Janasse “La Chaupin”, you only get to take along a few certain Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France ($49.99/bottle) things? Well, the Domaine de la Janasse is one of my favorite producers in the Rhone and their La following are what Chaupin bottling is consistently wonderful nearly every year. In great years, like I’m calling my 1998 and 2001, the wine is a magnificent expression of how wonderful “desert island” Chateauneuf-du-Pape can be! selections. Wines that I just couldn’t Jammy, ripe nose filled with wonderful black cherry, currants and black pepper (or rather wouldn’t) hints. Full-bodied with low acidity and firm, dry tannins. Great balance with a live without. rich core of plummy, berry-like fruit. Young and a little rough, but showing great promise. Moderate length, tight with a spicy aftertaste. Marvelous. Expensive.

2001 Paul Autard, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France ($29.99/bottle) Pretty, perfumed nose with wild flowers, fresh herbs and cherry notes. Vibrant. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity and moderate tannins. Good balance with an elegant structure. Dense, expressive fruit. Black cherry, roasted game and hints of allspice and black pepper - lovely. Long finish with nice complexity on the aftertaste. Persistent cherry and spice notes. Drinking well, should improve for at least the next 5 to 7 years if not more. Excellent value from a consistent producer in a super vintage.

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2001 Paul Autard “La Cuvée Côte Ronde”, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France ($45.00/bottle) Intense, jammy nose - ripe with cherry, rosewater and black pepper hints - wonderful. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity and firm but smooth tannins. Well balanced and tight with a core of dark fruit. Plum, black cherry, dark chocolate and black pepper hints. Long finish with lavender, roasted game and black pepper on the aftertaste. Superlative Chateauneuf- du-Pape. Should age nicely for another 10 to 15 years. Well priced given the quality and aging potential.

“Dessert” Island “In Europe we thought of wine as something as Selection: healthy and normal as food and The following isn’t a wine, but if I’m ever trapped on a desert island I will also a great giver definitely want it around! of happiness and well being and

delight. Drinking NV Moo’s “Buzz Bomb” Chocolate Espresso Ice Cream, wine was not a Jackson, Wyoming snobbism nor a H eady, creamy and lush with the perfect balance between the deeply sweet sign of chocolate and the slightly bitter espresso coffee flavors. Perfect consistency sophistication nor that melts like butter in your mouth. Persistent aftertaste that bounces a cult; it was as between the bittersweet chocolate and dark roasted essence of the espresso. natural as eating Wonderful. and to me as necessary.”

- Ernest Hemingway

Paul J. Malagrifa, CSW, CWE Certified Wine Educator [email protected]