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TUNE YOUR FOR OUTRIGHT SPEED

J/70 Tuning Guide Rev. Q10 Photo Chris Howell After countless hours , testing Tuning Quick Guide your sheets, out line, line, and competing in the J/70 One Design, and other controls to make Attached is our quick tuning guide North Sails has updated our tuning settings repeatable and more accurate. that we have developed for the J/70. notes and tips in an effort to get sailors North Sails worked in concert with and teams up to race winning speed Southern Spars in designing our sails Setup & Tuning quickly with our World Championship to match the characteristics of the class Sails! As we learn more about the approved J/70 mast. Using the North SPREADERS TRIM MARKS J/70, or any other One-Design Class, Design Suite, our design team was Before stepping the mast, mark the new information regarding setup, able to design the perfect and mast spreaders with tape stripes to use as a tuning and trimming techniques will combination using the same tools and reference when trimming the . These be updated online at OneDesign.com. process we use for projects like TP52, marks will indicate the location of the Also, anyone can sign up online for our Farr 40 and other high performance leech of the jib when it is trimmed for North Sails One Design e-mail updates racing programs that choose North upwind sailing. Measuring from the and receive all J/70 news and updates Sails and Southern Spars. mast, along the edge of the , directly by e-mail. put tape stripes at 18”, 20” and 22” with the measured edge of the stripe closest The J/70 is a design that incorporates Tuning Tools to the mast. many decades worth of great ideas Some basic tools are required to and puts them into a 22’ package of accurately setup and tune your J/70 INITIAL RIG SETUP fun and speed. Incorporating the speed mast. These include: 50’ or longer 1. Measure headstay length. With the and handling of a tier sport boat Measuring Tape, PT-2 Loos Tension mast up, attach the with the stability and reliability of a per- Gauge, Calipers, Permanent Marker to the bowsprit to support the mast, formance keelboat, the J/70 creates a and Electrical Tape. Each of these tools allowing the headstay to be discon- sailing experience that accommodates will be mentioned in this tuning guide nected from the furler drum. Then pull all ages, abilities and sailing appetites. and will aid in the proper tuning of your the headstay taut down the front face We expect to see the J/70 class crown mast. of the mast and make a mark on the a diverse group of champions in the headstay (Use either a marking pen coming years. Let North Sails help you or piece of tape) corresponding to the reach your competitive goals! top of the white band around the mast near the . After marking Sail Care the headstay, reconnect it to the furler drum and measure from the mark you Properly caring for your North Sails made down to the center of the pin at will prolong the life of the sails. When the bottom of the headstay (including storing your sails, keep them clean, and toggles). That initial measurement dry, out of direct sunlight and away should be 54 ½” (see pics). from areas of extreme heat. Rolling the and jib when they are not Tuning tools needed to accurately setup 2. After the initial headstay length has being used and folding your spinnaker and tune your J/70. Another important been set, the length can be adjusted (instead of stuffing it in a bag) will help setup tool is the use Another important later to aid in fine tuning the balance all of your sails remain wrinkle free and setup tool is the use of reference of the boat to wind conditions or last much longer. In addition, releasing marks. MARK EVERYTHING! While trimming tendencies. Any changes to the tension on the full-length battens this sounds basic, marking settings the headstay length, after the initial in the mainsail, for storage, will increase can make it much easier to repeat your setup, should be done at ¼“ increments the life of the sail. setup and tuning on the water. Mark to better track the effect of the change.

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J/70 Tuning Guide Rev Q10

3. Center the mast side to side. To aid in shrouds to bring the mast into column. centering the mast laterally in the boat, 5. Checking for proper Pre-Bend. After place a pencil mark 8’ (96”) back from setting the tensions at 22-12, the fitting at the shear (- check that the mast has the proper intersection) on each side. Next, hoist a pre-bend (aft bend) by pulling the main tape measure on the jib halyard, secure halyard down taught to the bottom of the halyard and measure to the pencil the mast track near the gooseneck (see marks you made on the shear. Adjust pic). The pre-bend distance between the Upper Shroud lengths until the mast the back of the mast track and the front is centered and the halyard to shear of the main halyard (at the spreaders) lengths are the same from side-to-side. should be between 1 1/2 and 2 1/2 inches. The SD-1 main may fit your mast NOTE: The tape measure only needs better if you are closer to 1 1/2 inches to be hoisted a short distance since of prebend and the M-2 main may be the measurements are relative to each better if you are closer to 2 1/2 inches other and the actual lengths are not of prebend. important. 6. Use calipers to check base settings. 4. Set the base shroud tension. The After setting the base rig tensions base tension for the Upper Shrouds is and checking the side-to-side center 22 and the Lower Shrouds is 12 on the position of the mast, it is a good idea PT-2 gauge. While adding tension to to use Calipers to measure the distance get to the base setting, occasionally between the studs on the shrouds and sight up the sail track on the aft side headstay. This measurement can help of the mast to ensure the length of you get the rig back to base setting main halyard to bottom of mast track to the is straight. If the mast track more easily, especially if unsure of the measure pre-bend has any side bend or curve, adjust the turns or tensions while on the water.

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J/70 Tuning Guide Rev Q10

M2/J2 Designs Quick Tuning Chart Rev. Q10

UPPERS LOWERS Turns Turns IN-HAUL WIND SPEED UPPERS LOWERS YOUR YOUR JIB LEAD MAIN Steps from Steps from VANG From Cabin Knots (PT2) (PT2) TURNS TURNS Holes in Front ** TRAVELER BASE * BASE * *** 14” - Max < 6 knots 19 Loose -1 - 3 -1 - 2 3-4 holes 0% Loose (Above Center) 1” - 3” 12” - 14” 6-8 knots 20 7 -2 - 2 -1 - 1 4-5 holes Snug Firm (Above Center) 1” - 2” 10” - 12” 8-10 knots 22 12 BASE BASE BASE BASE 4-5 holes Snug-75% 75% (Above Center) 1” - 2” 6” - 8” 10-12 24 16 2 + 2 1 + 1 4-5 holes 95% 95% (Above Center) 1.5” - 3“

12-16 26 20 2 + 4 1 + 2 4-5 holes 100% 100% Center 2” - 3” 4” - 6” 16 - 20 28 24 2 + 6 1 + 3 3-4 holes 100% 100% (Below Center) 2” - 4” 4” - 6” 20+ 28 28 0 + 6 2 + 5 3-4 holes 100% 100% (Below Center) No In-Haul

RAKE - 4’ 6.5” See our complete Tuning Guide for information on how to measure the rake.

* The number of turns is an estimate and could be different from boat to boat. It is important to check your settings, and the number of turns between the settings, before going out on the water. ** Counting the number of open holes in front of the jib lead car identifies jib lead position. Setting the jib lead position at 6 holes in front of the lead car, is recommended for flat water only. *** The distance (in inches) from the clew of the jib to the side of the cabin identifies In-Haul measurement. Use less In-Haul when lead is forward and more In-Haul when lead is aft.

SD-1 Designs Quick Tuning Chart Rev. Q10

UPPERS LOWERS Turns Turns JIB LEAD IN-HAUL WIND SPEED UPPERS LOWERS YOUR YOUR MAIN from Steps from Holes in Front VANG OUTHAUL From Cabin Knots (PT2) (PT2) Steps TURNS TURNS TRAVELER BASE * BASE * ** *** 14” - Max < 6 knots 14 Loose - 1 -2 - 0.5 - 1.5 3-4 holes 0% Loose 1” - 3” (Above Center) 12” - 14” 6-8 knots 16 Loose - 1 -1 - 1 -1 4-5 holes Snug Firm 1” - 2” (Above Center) 10” - 12” 8-10 knots 18 8 BASE BASE BASE BASE 4-5 holes Snug-75% 75% 1” - 2” (Above Center) 6” - 8” 10-12 20 12 2 +2 1 +1 4-6 holes 95% 95% 1.5” - 3“ (Above Center) Center 12-16 22 16 2 +4 1 +2 4-6 holes 100% 100% 2” - 3” 4” - 6” 16 - 20 24 20 2 +6 1 +3 4-6 holes 100% 100% 2” - 4” (Below Center) 4” - 6” 20+ 26 25 2 +8 1.5 +4.5 4-6 holes 100% 100% No In-Haul (Below Center)

RAKE - 4’ 6.5” See our complete Tuning Guide for information on how to measure the rake. Less vang is needed for the SD-1 main, especially in 15+ knots. Pull vang snug then 1-2”more control line. Inhauler for the SD-1 Jib should be on the outside of the range from the cabin. * The number of turns is an estimate and could be different from boat to boat. It is important to check your settings, and the number of turns between the settings, before going out on the water. ** Counting the number of open holes in front of the jib lead car identifies jib lead position. Setting the jib lead position at 7 holes in front of the lead car, is recommended for flat water only. *** The distance (in inches) from the clew of the jib to the side of the cabin identifies In-Haul measurement. Use less In-Haul when lead is forward and more In-Haul when lead is aft.

XCS-1 Designs Quick Tuning Chart Rev. Q10

UPPERS LOWERS Turns Turns JIB LEAD IN-HAUL WIND SPEED UPPERS LOWERS YOUR YOUR OUT- MAIN Steps from Steps from Holes in VANG From Cabin Knots (PT2) (PT2) TURNS TURNS HAUL TRAVELER base * base * Front ** *** 14” - Max < 6 knots 12 Loose - 1 -2 - 1 -2 3-4 holes 0 Loose 1” - 3” (Above Center) 12” - 14” 6-8 knots 14 Loose - 1 -1 - 1 -1 4-5 holes 0 Firm 1” - 2” (Above Center) 10 10” - 12” 8-10 knots 16 BASE BASE BASE BASE 4-5 holes 0 75% 1” - 2” (-1 turn) (Above Center) 6” - 8” 10-13 19 15 1.5 + 1.5 2 +2 4-6 holes Snug 90% 1.5” - 3“ (Above Center) 4” 13-16 22 20 1.5 +3 1 +3 4-6 holes Snug 95% 2” - 3” (Above Center) 2” - 4” 16 - 19 25 23 1.5 +4.5 1 +4 4-6 holes Snug+ 95% 2” - 4” (Above Center)

19-22 26 26 1.5 +6 1 +5 4-6 holes Snug+ 100% Center - 2” Above 2” - 4”

22+ 28 29 1 +7 1 +6 4-6 holes Snug+ 100% Center - 2” Above None

RAKE - 4’ 6.5” See our complete Tuning Guide for information on how to measure the rake.

* The number of turns is an estimate and could be different from boat to boat. It is important to check your settings, and the number of turns between the settings, before going out on the water. ** Counting the number of open holes in front of the jib lead car identifies jib lead position. Setting the jib lead position at 7 holes in front of the lead car, is recommended for flat water only. *** The distance (in inches) from the clew of the jib to the side of the cabin identifies In-Haul measurement. Use less In-Haul when lead is forward and more In-Haul when lead is aft. M2/J2 Designs Tension Chart for the Selden Mast

SELDEN MAST OUTERS INNERS IN-HAUL WIND SPEED YOUR YOUR MAIN Turns from Turns from VANG OUTHAUL From Cabin Knots TURNS TURNS TRAVELER BASE * BASE * *** 14” - Max 0-5 knots -1 -3 0 0% Loose 1” - 3” (Above Center) 12” - 14” 6-8 knots 0 -2 0 Snug Firm 1” - 2” (Above Center) 10” - 12” 8-10 knots 22 11 1385 mm Snug-75% 75% 1” - 2” (Above Center) 6” - 8” 10-12 +2 +1 0 95% 95% 1.5” - 3“ (Above Center) Center 12-15 +4 +2 0 100% 100% 2” - 3”

4” - 6” 16 - 20 +6 +3 0 100% 100% 2” - 4” (Below Center) 4” - 6” 20+ +8 +4 0 100% 100% No In-Haul (Below Center)

Forestay measurement is a swing from the top of the gooseneck white band. * The number of turns is an estimate and could be different from boat to boat. It is important to check your settings, and the number of turns between the settings, before going out on the water. ** Counting the number of open holes in front of the jib lead car identifies jib lead position. Setting the jib lead position at 5 holes in front of the lead car, is recommended for flat water only. *** The distance (in inches) from the clew of the jib to the side of the cabin identifies In-Haul measurement. Use less In-Haul when lead is forward and more In-Haul when lead is aft.

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J/70 Tuning Guide Rev Q10 Sail Trim Trimming the mainsail on the J/70 is a the puffs and still maintain some leech MAINSAIL balance between power and stalling. If tension on the sail. It is important to the sail is trimmed properly, you will get remember to ease the boomvang when Mainsail trim on the J/70 is an important the maximum amount of power out the wind speed drops to add shape and factor in getting the boat up to speed. of the sail and if not trimmed properly, power back into the mainsail. Check each of these for proper mainsail the sail could stall and your boat speed setup: will suffer. The controls that most Outhaul The shape of the foot, and directly affect the trim of the mainsail lower section of the mainsail can also 1. Make sure the mainsail is at full hoist are the mainsheet, the main traveller, be changed using the outhaul. The at all times. The of the sail should the boomvang, the outhaul and the outhaul should be set looser when the be hoisted until even with the white . Here is what to check for each boat needs more power and tighter as band at the top of the mast. This setting control when trimming the mainsail: the power increases. A good indicator should be check regularly as the halyard of proper outhaul tension is the could stretch out during the day. Mainsheet tension like any sail, is the lowest batten. When the mainsheet is place to start for proper trim. In most trimmed properly, the lowest batten 2. The tack of the mainsail is equipped conditions, the J/70 mainsheet should will hook slightly to windward of the with a strap that leads around the front be trimmed so that at max trim the . If the lowest batten hooks too of the mast. This tack strap should be leech telltales at the top of the main much, the outhaul might be too loose tensioned so that the tack of the sail is are stalling 25-30% of the time. In light and if it is parallel with the boom, the held forward while under load from the wind or when building speed these outhaul could be too tight. outhaul. The tension is also important leech telltales should be flowing 80- to keep the luff in the mainsail 100% of the time. Backstay Like the boomvang and from chafing in the feeder or pulling out outhaul, the backstay is used to change of the track completely. REMEMBER Boom height relative to the boat’s the power in the mainsail. When the to unclip the buckle when dropping the centerline, is another important factor wind gets stronger, more backstay main. If the outhaul is on tight and the in mainsail trim and the mainsheet tension will to help depower the upper main is dropped, the buckle may break traveler is the way to set the boom part of the mainsail and take sag out from excessive load created as the height properly. Until the boat becomes of the headstay. Increasing backstay boom drops to the deck. overpowered, the traveler should be set tension bends the top of the mast and so that the boom is near the centerline flattens the upper part of the main and 3. Correct batten tension for the three of the boat while sailing upwind. It can tensions the headstay flattening the jib. (3) full length battens is important to be set slightly above center to help in Also, like the and outhaul, achieve proper mainsail shape. Each pointing, but there is risk of stalling the backstay should be eased off if the batten should be tensioned so that the sail. If the boat loses speed when wind drops so the mainsail and jib will all the wrinkles are removed from the the boom is raised above centerline, gain depth and power. batten pocket and the batten can pop the traveler or the mainsheet should from side-to-side easily. If a batten is be eased to help return the boom to too loose, winkles will appear along centerline and build speed. the batten pocket and if a batten is too JIB tight, it will be difficult to pop the batten Trimming the jib on the J/70 involves from side-to-side. Boomvang When the wind gets both technique and accuracy. Proper stronger the boomvang is used to help jib trim will help balance the boat 4. Adding a backstay flicker to the mast depower the lower part of the mainsail. and help in boat speed and pointing crane can help the leech of the mainsail Adding tension to the boomvang ability. While achieving the proper trim pass through the backstay when flattens the lower main sail and allows is the goal, being able to repeat the tacking and jibing in lighter winds. the trimmer to ease the mainsheet in trim consistently will also make a big 7

J/70 Tuning Guide Rev Q10 impact on your boat’s performance. The moderate chop conditions 2-3”. In big luff of sail). If wrinkles extend further important factors in proper jib trim are waves and chop we may go with no in- back in the sail, or no wrinkles appear the lead car position, jib tension, hauler. Remember that the less inhaul at all, the halyard should be adjusted in-hauler tension, jib halyard tension and is used, the farther forward the jib car to compensate. As the wind gets reference marks to repeat all the settings. needs to be. With no in hauler, the car stronger, and the sails need to be The final trim position for the J/70 jib is a should be around 3-4 holes showing depowered, the jib halyard should be balance between the sheet tension and and with a lot of in-hauler on and the tightened just to the point where the in-hauler tension. When more in-hauler jib clew is at 1” from the cabin house, wrinkles along the luff disappear. As is used, less sheet tension is required and there should be 5-6 holes showing in the halyard is tightened and loosened, vice-versa. When the jib is trimmed in the front. it is important to keep in mind that the leech of the jib should be lined up with halyard tension also affects the leech the spreader stripes (between 18”-22” Jib Halyard The jib halyard on the J/70 tension of the jib and the sheet and/ from the side of the mast). is rigged with a fine tune purchase or in-hauler may need to be adjusted that can be adjusted while sailing. In to compensate. Jib Car Position The first step in jib trim lighter winds, the jib halyard should on the J/70 is jib lead car position. Setting be set so that there are slight wrinkles Make Marks Make reference marks this position is important as it affects all of appearing in the first panel along the on jib sheets for both the sheet the other settings. Combining the jib lead luff of the sail (approx. 4-8” back from tension and in-hauler tension. Having car position with the amount of sheet reference marks will make it much tension, in-hauler and halyard tension allows the trimmer to manipulate the sail to fit the conditions and style of the skipper. When discussing the position of the jib lead car, we reference the number of holes visible behind the first deck mounting screw in front of the car once in a position.

Windward On the J/70, we use the windward, or lazy jib sheet as an ‘in-hauler’ to pull the clew of the jib to windward and more inboard. When setting the in-hauler tension, our reference point is the distance the clew of the jib is away from the side of the cabin house. Our go to setting is 1.5” from the cabin house. Flat water we may go to 1” away and in Jib clew shown In-hauled to about 1” from touching cabin house. 8

J/70 Tuning Guide Rev Q10 easier to duplicate your trim settings properly for upwind, the leech telltales and mast, which will work with each quickly. will be flowing and if the telltales begin of the different types of takedowns. to stall, the sail will need to be adjusted When setting the spinnaker, the to regain the flow. Most often, only biggest concern is keeping the sail a small adjustment is needed to help out of the water until it is hoisted. As return the proper trim and flow to the bowsprit is extended and the tack the sail. The reference marks on your line pulls the sail out to the end of the spreads will also help with jib trim. You bowsprit, a crew member should be will find that in 10+knots in flat water assigned to guiding the sail out of the you may be able to sheet so the jib companionway while keeping the foot leech is at the inside, 18” spreader mark of the sail tight and up out of the water. and the leech telltale is still flowing.

When it is light and lumpy you will find Tack Height – Most often the tack of Jib sheet and deck reference marks help accurately repeat trim settings that the leech will need to be closer to the spinnaker should be pulled down the outside 22” spreader mark. tight to the end of the fully extended It is a good idea to experiment with bowsprit. In conditions, before planning different settings for each control to Easing the jib sheet slightly is the and when the breeze allows the boat get used to how each control affects first step in returning flow to the jib. to sail deeper downwind, easing the the sail and how they interact with Normally, this will only require an inch tack line 4-6” up can help the spinnaker each other. The basic effect of the three (or less) of sheet to be eased out. If the rotate to windward. This is similar to jib controls, lead car position, in-hauler leech telltales continue to stall when pulling the afterguy back when sailing and jib halyard is: the leech is sheeted in to the spreader downwind. When the tack is eased stripes, other adjustments need to be up off of the bowsprit, the tack line Jib Lead Car Position made to properly trim the sail. Since should be aimed straight up or slightly Forward = Tighter leech, round foot the telltales indicate the stalling of the to windward to help stabilize the sail, Aft = Open leech, flat foot upper leech of the sail, adding twist because with the tack raised the sail can is likely the solution. The two ways to easily become unstable and rock from In-hauler best achieve more twist in the jib, is to side-to-side. If this happens, the tack More = Tighter leech, round foot move the lead car aft and use less in- needs to be pulled down tight to help Less = Open leech, flat foot hauler tension. As described earlier, stabilize the sail. Increasing windward both adjustment will add twist to the heel with the tack line eased can help Jib Halyard sail and help regain the twist and flow to stabilize the sail and allow the boat More = Flatter sail at the top of the sail. to sail a lower downwind. Less = Deeper sail Gybing – An SPINNAKER After setting the sheeting position of can be gybed two ways, ‘outside’ or’ Spinnaker trim on the J/70 is much the jib, the trimmer needs to constantly inside’. An outside gybe is where the easier than that of a conventional poled check to ensure the trim remains clew of the spinnaker is eased around boat. Here are a few tricks that can correct as the conditions change. Since the front of the boat and then sheeted make you faster downwind and make the jib on the J/70 is high aspect (tall and in on the opposite side. This method your sail handling easier: thin) changes in the conditions have is rarely used on a J/70 and is more a significant impact on the trim of the common on larger boats with larger Setting – The most efficient position to sail. For this reason, there are telltales sails. The outside gybe also, requires set the spinnaker is out the main hatch attached to the upper leech of the jib to significantly longer sheets to allow the and between the shrouds and mast. help the trimmer know when the sail is sail to rotate completely around the With this method, the sail will need going to stall. When the sail is trimmed front of the boat. to be retrieved between the shrouds The inside gybe is the most common 9

J/70 Tuning Guide Rev Q10 technique for smaller boats like the J/70. At this point the tack line is released, on starboard tack, without room to During an inside gybe the spinnaker is collapsing the spinnaker allowing the completely gybe the spinnaker before passed between its own luff and the forward crew to gather the foot of the the rounding, requires a gybe douse headstay. When up the sail, sail. Once the sail is under control, the or ‘Mexican’. The gybe douse begins make sure the tack line passes over the halyard and bowsprit are released and as a leeward douse and ends as a spinnaker sheet coming from the . the sail falls to the deck and is stored windward douse. The boat is sailed This will allow the tack to go out to the down the main hatch. This is also the low and into a gybe on starboard tack, end of the bowsprit while the sheet proper douse when approaching a while the spinnaker is over trimmed on remains lead around the headstay. starboard rounding on port tack. In that the port side of the boat. As the boat case, the douse should be completed turns toward the mark and gybes, the To complete the inside gybe, the boat is before reaching the mark so the gybe crew grabs the foot of the spinnaker turned down slowly while the trimmer around the mark can be made after the between the shrouds and mast at eases the spinnaker sheet until the clew spinnaker is retrieved. the same time the halyard is released, is just forward of the headstay. At this dropping the sail onto the foredeck. point the trimmer overhauls the new Approaching a starboard mark Once the sail is mostly down, the tack sheet and completely releases the old rounding on starboard tack will require line and bowsprit are released and the sheet pulling the clew of the spinnaker a leeward douse since the sail will be sail is gathered and stored down the around the headstay before the stored on the leeward side and the main hatch. mainsail is gybed. Once the clew of the boat will not change tacks before the spinnaker is around the headstay, the rounding. Before beginning the douse, Contact Us boat is turned through the gybe and the boat must be turned downwind to the mainsail is pulled across the boat release pressure on the sail. After the to the new side. When timed correctly, turn down, the spinnaker over trimmed For additional information, visit the the mainsail and the spinnaker will fill so the forward crew can reach out to North Sails One Design website at simultaneously on the new side. leeward to retrieve the sail. If the boat onedesign.com or contact the J/70 isn’t sailed lower during a leeward class experts: Spinnaker Douses – There are three douse, it will get exciting as the boat GERMANY basic types of spinnaker douses used will likely want to tip over as the sail Markus Koy +49 40 30092550 on the J/70. The windward douse, the is over sheeted. When the foot of the [email protected] leeward douse and the gybe douse, spinnaker is over trimmed the forward HOLLAND sometimes called the ‘Mexican’. Each crew should grab the foot of the sail Wouter Kollman +31 06 42 156 449 douse is different because of the forward of the shrouds (between the [email protected] approach to the mark and type of turn mast and lower shroud) at the same ITALY at the mark. Since the spinnaker is time the tack line is released. Once Giuilo Desiderato +39 349 7407825 almost always set from the port side of the crew has the foot of the sail under [email protected] the boat, each method will return the control, the halyard and bowsprit are SPAIN sail to the port side. released and the sail is gathered and Hugo Rocha + 34 650868669 [email protected] stored down the main hatch. Because Approaching a port rounding on port the sail is taken in on the leeward side, UK Ruairidh Scott +44 01329 443430 tack will require a windward douse. the crew needs to take care in pulling [email protected] Since the boat on port tack the the sail aboard while at the same time USA entire time, the sail is released and keeping it from hitting the water. If Tim Healy +1 (401) 683-7997 retrieved on the windward side of the the sail falls in the water, it is likely to [email protected] boat. To perform the windward douse, ‘shrimp’ or fill with water and pull the Will Welles +1 (401) 683-7997 the boat is sailed lower to release rest of the sail over the side. [email protected] pressure in the spinnaker and the clew Chris Snow +1 (619) 226-1415 of the sail is pulled around the headstay. Approaching a port mark rounding [email protected] 10

J/70 Tuning Guide Rev Q10 NORTH SAILS ONE DESIGN QUALITY CONTROL CHECK

MAINSAIL JIB SPINNAKER Corners Corners Corners

Cunningham Battens Numbers (both sides)

Tack Slug Luff Tape Country Code (both sides)

Leech Cord Royalty (stitched on)

Luff Slugs Telltales North Logo

Royalty (stitched on) Leech telltales Bag

Numbers Leech Line

Country Code Royalty (stitched on)

Battens North Logo

Leech Telltales Bag

Insignia

North Logo

Bag

Checked by: ______

Date: ____ / ____ / ____

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J/70 Tuning Guide Rev Q10