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FOOD n DESIGN Indian come in many variations, but all feature served with or on potatoes. In true Hot Joy style, Philpot a complex, carefully layered blend of dry and fresh has served this with tater tots, fries and baked potatoes. aromatics. The most popular Indian curries are tikka masala, a As you see, curry is in the eye of the beholder. v creamy and yogurt ; vindaloo, a spicy, sour made with and fresh and dried chiles; and rogan josh, HOT JOY, SAN ANTONIO made from browned onions, , , dried chiles, bay 210.368.9324 | Hotjoysa.com CURRY leaves, cardamom, and ginger. In Austin, the most impressive selection of Indian curries ASIANA INDIAN , AUSTIN is at Asiana, a neighborhood restaurant that specializes in 512.445.3435 | Asianaindiancuisine.com Around The World authentic of the subcontinent. While the most popular Indian dishes in the U.S. are of Punjabi origin, Asiana’s THAI FRESH COFFEE BAR & RESTAURANT, AUSTIN menu includes dishes from various parts of India as well as 512.494.6436 | Thai-fresh.com Indo-Chinese recipes. Owners Pandiyan Kaliyamoorthy and Loganathan Appavu hail from the southern state of Tamil Naru, where curries rely on fresh , are lighter on the dry and are often hot and spicy. They also distinguish themselves By CLAUDIA ALARCON Photography courtesy of HOT JOY AND THAI FRESH by the use of and fenugreek seed and leaves, which AND JASMINE , THAI FRESH are known as methi. Asiana serves delicious southern curries like Hyderabadi-style lamb curry made with a paste of fresh jalapeños and cilantro, and Chettinad-style chicken masala. Although the exact definition of curry is broad, renowned historian Alan Davidson wrote in Other specialties here include khorma, a creamy made with onions and nut paste, and kadai murg, a spicy dish of the Oxford Companion to Food that curry “denotes various kinds of dish in numerous different parts chicken cooked with tomatoes, onions and bell peppers. WITH BONE-IN CHICKEN of the world; but all are savoury and all are spiced.” Although the term ‘curry’ isn’t used in India, the British Southeast Asian curries are a whole other ballgame. “Thai curries are mostly based, although there are also AND , THAI FRESH adopted it to categorize a number of different Indian dishes they discovered upon colonizing the subcontinent many that are stock based,” says Jam Sanitchat, Chef/Owner of — Davidson says that curry comes from the Tamil word kari, or spiced sauce. Austin’s Thai Fresh, a quaint café that dishes some of the best Thai cuisine in the city. “Thai curries are thicker than Vietnamese A short list of countries where curry. Thai and Malaysian curries are similar, especially if you go curry, in its many variations, is to southern . Malaysian curries resemble Indian curries, with more dried spices in the ingredients.” enjoyed. Thailand’s most popular curries are yellow, red, green, This is a short list of countries where curry, in its many panang, massaman (or Muslim-style), jungle curry and variations, is enjoyed. (a yellow curry from and Nepal: Masu is a common dish that consists of curried he Portuguese are credited with popularizing curry Bangladeshi immigrants whose restaurants created British-Asian that is thickened with tomatoes and served on soft or crispy chicken or mutton in a thick gravy, served with rice. after colonizing the Indian west coast; there is a recipe dishes in the 1970s to suit Western , such as chicken tikka ). They are normally soupy, made with different Sri Lanka: Common curries are white (based on coconut for kari in a 17th Century Portuguese cookbook. The masala and the Birmingham Balti. The Brits even host a National combinations of aromatics like garlic, ginger, , milk), red (with a large amount of chiles) and black (with dark Tfirst curry recipe in English was published by Hannah Glasse in Curry Week during which fans vote for the U.K.’s curry capital, lemongrass, Thai leaves, cilantro, basil, Thai chiles and roasted spices). 1747, but the recipes are much older. Scientists believe they may curry pub of the year, favorite restaurant and best signature dish. , seasoned with and lime juice. Yellow : is the most famous dish and is considered have found evidence of a 4,000-year-old ‘proto-curry’ from the Although spices and herbs vary widely by region and style, and massaman curries are generally mild, while jungle and a ‘dry’ curry, which means the sauce is simmered down to Indus Valley civilization of India. Anthropologists found traces curries are usually similarly prepared. “Every culture and region green curries are fiery hot. “Most common curries have more or evaporate most of the liquid. of cooked ginger and (which are has their own ingredients and procedures, less the same ingredients and recipes. It’s more of a preference : Malaysian curries resemble Indian-style and still key ingredients in Indian curries) in but all stem from each other,” says San than anything else,” says Sanitchat. “Some like their curries contain turmeric, coconut milk, shallots, ginger, shrimp paste, human teeth and in a pot from the Antonio chef John Philpot of Hot Joy, the with more dried spices; some make their red and green curries chiles and garlic. ancient town of Farmana, west of Delhi. playful Southtown restaurant. “When I with no dried spices. Some like to make their curries spicier, Burma: Burmese chicken curry is a Punjabi-style chicken They believe the remains date between 2500 make curries I try using natural sweetness others not so much. Old recipes for Panang curry also have dish, without tomatoes or peppers. BC and 2200 BC, making this the earliest like and to add another note peanuts in the paste, although my mom never made it that Philippines: Dinuguan, also known as black curry, is made recorded use of either spice to be identified of flavor. We always have a curry on the way,” she says. On the other hand, Chef Philpot likes to use with meat (including innards) and thickened with pork in the area and curry the oldest continuously menu in some fashion, either traditional, nut butters in his curry recipes. blood, seasoned with vinegar, chiles, garlic and onion. prepared cuisine known in human history. or sometimes we will add or do something Southeast Asian curries may contain almost any meat, Japanese curry: Invented in 1912 and also known as battleship Curry dishes based on the original Indian silly to make it ‘Hot Joy-ish,’” he says. along with like squash, onion, potato and . curry, it is made from a stock, usually pork, thickened with styles, as well as European versions of the Some of Philpot’s creations include Thai “Heavier meat like , goat and lamb go well with curries and bulldog sauce and seasoned with Worcestershire recipes, exist throughout Southeast Asia, red curry with sunchokes and beef tendon, with dried spices, like massaman and yellow curries. Panang sauce, ginger, and white pepper. It includes meat, East Africa, South Africa and Caribbean and black curry mole carnitas served on with beef is definitely my favorite,” says Sanitchat. Of , onions, potatoes and carrots. The Japanese also use curry as an islands like Jamaica and Trinidad and Malaysian . “If I had to pick, Muslims will not add pork to their curry. Made from a paste of ingredient for other dishes such as katsu kare (curry on a breaded Tobago. The United Kingdom has adopted I would say Indian-style curries are my dried chiles, , nutmeg, and aromatics (lemongrass, pork chop) and yaki kare, curry that is baked with a raw egg. curry as a , thanks to a large favorite, just because of the depth of flavor galangal and shrimp paste), includes whole Ethiopia: Wat is a version of Indian-style curry and can be population of Indian, Pakistani and BLACK CURRY MOLE CHICKEN WINGS, HOT JOY and ingredients used.” spices like cardamom, cinnamon and peppercorns, and is based on any vegetables or meat except pork.

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