5-6/2017 English edition

The international premium magazine for the textile chain www.textile-network.com DU: 07.04.2017 DU: 07.04.2017 Inland

Internationale Leitmesse für Technische Textilien und Vliesstoffe techtextil.com bs: 03.04.2017

• K Y

CONNECTING M C THE FUTURE 9. – 12. 5. 2017, Frankfurt am Main

parallel zu: 65170_TT_textile_network_spezial_210x297_neu • FOGRA 39 65170_TT_textile_network_spezial_210x297_neu TRADITION INNOVATION QUALITY SOLUTION STOLL

STOLL combines the experience of over 140 years and the future orientated solution thinking to bring you high-quality flat knitting machines and an innovative mind for the development in the growing sector of Fashion & Technology and Technical Textiles.

TECHTEXTIL FRANKFURT 9 - 12 MAY 2017 HALL 3.0 BOOTH F39 WWW.STOLL.COM

Anzeigenvorlage_297x210+3_alle Sprachen.indd 1 20.03.2017 11:11:35 Pulse of Europe, Roncalliplatz in Cologne on 9 April 2017 editorial Photo: Pulse of Europe

The Pulse of...

In just a short space of time, the idea an economic perspective. Germany, for nect”, people join created by a married couple of lawyers example, is currently flying, with GDP forces and engage based in Frankfurt has succeeded in growing for the seventh consecutive in constructive dia- mobilising people throughout Europe year. German manufacturers are a logue, preferably in a who want to demonstrate their com- leading force in the field of technical congenial atmosphere. mitment to a peaceful European Un- textiles and fibre-based materials Our stand in the Foyer of ion. The new initiative known as “Pulse (global market volume: US$ 163bn) Hall 4.1 will provide the perfect Iris Schlomski, of Europe” has been staging rallies in and, according to the recent “Interna- backdrop for connecting and engaging editor-in-chief various European cities at 2pm every tionalisation Study” conducted on be- in dialogue. In collaboration with our Sunday since February 2017. “Con- half of the German textile association exhibition partner VDMD, we will be necting“, joining forces, engaging in Südwesttextil and the Baden-Würt- holding daily interviews with research- dialogue – this is more important now temberg Alliance of Fibre-based Mate- ers, lateral thinkers, experts and inno- than ever before! rials (AFBW), Germany ranks second vators. One of our special guests is An- We live in an age where protectionism only to China. The study concludes that ja Gockel, the well-known designer of is rearing its ugly head at every turn globalisation offers huge opportunities the year 2017! We’re already very ex- and people are struggling to make for suppliers of technical textiles and cited to hear what she has to say about ends meet in their ailing economies. fibre-based materials, not just technical textiles that are endowed Many fear the consequences of Brexit in Germany. Back to Frankfurt: the in- with additional functions for fashion. and the unpredictability of US Presi- ternational trade fairs Techtextil/ Please see our website for more de- dent Trump. Others are being plunged Texprocess will be taking place from 9 tails! You can read more about the into desperation through war (not only to 12 May 2017 under the headings highlights at the fairs from page 18! in Syria) and terror. Amidst all the “Connecting the future“ and “Technol- We hope you enjoy reading this latest doom and gloom, we should not, how- ogy Crossing“. The concept of interna- issue of textile network ever, lose sight of the many rays of tionality only makes sense if interna- hope and positive acts of kindness. tional business deals are possible. This Yours There are also glimmers of light from can only happen when countries “con-

IX FUSION ERP & PLM. PURE INNOVATION. BRAND NEW.

Visit us at the texprocess: 9. – 12.5.2017, Frankfurt a.M. Hall 4.0, Stand E 42

www.intex.de P h o 34 | Special fibres and yarns content to : p ix a b a y Photo: ITCF 21 | Fair highlights Photo: Freudenberg

13 | Research

Photo: Schlomski 10 | Intertextile Shanghai Photo: DLR 18 | Trade fair special

Visit online: www.textile-network.com Issue 5-6/2017

EDITORIAL TRADE FAIR SPECIAL TRADE FAIR SPECIAL The Pulse of… 3 Space in Living Eschler We look forward to Specialist in high-tech knitted fabrics 23 TRADE FAIRS seeing you 18 Pfand Intertextile Shanghai Techtextil/Texprocess Sustainability is main focus 24 Around 200 exhibitors 8 The industry takes of 19 Gebrüder Wylach Advertisement Milano Unica Hohenstein Group All about textile dyeing 24 5-6/2017 English edition Trends for 2018/2019 8 Passion for textiles 20 TITV Greiz/Imbut EMS-Griltech The international premium magazine for the textile chain www.textile-network.com 25. Proposte A new path to Speciality products for techni- Back to its roots 9 light-emitting textiles 24 cally demanding applications 21 Sandler DU: 07.04.2017 Inland Intertextile Shanghai Internationale Leitmesse für Freudenberg Welcome in the world of Technische Textilien und Vliesstoffe techtextil.com bs: 03.04.2017

An unbeatable sourcing • K Y

CONNECTING M Innovative solutions for nonwovens 25 C platform 10 THE FUTURE energy storage and Getzner Textil 9. – 12. 5. 2017, Frankfurt am Main sports waer 21 Skills and opportunities RESEARCH Frohn Hightex Group meet technical textiles 26 parallel zu: 65170_TT_textile_network_spezial_210x297_neu • FOGRA 39 65170_TT_textile_network_spezial_210x297_neu Fraunhofer IAP Fabric innovations for still Ontec Washable microcapsules 13 more protection 22 The clever solution for Messe Frankfurt efficient production of Exhibition GmbH Senbert Ludwig-Erhard-Anlage 1 SPECIAL textile scrims 26 Fully-fashion and 60327 Frankfurt am Main Perlon Fibres and yarns Part 3 3D-knitting techniques 22 GERMANY The Filament Company From research to product 14 Iprotex Phone +49 69 7575-0 invests 27 Fax +49 69 7575-6433 Interview Techtextil 2017 22 IVGT [email protected] Fibre research – what does Ettlin Consistent growth in www.messefrankfurt.com it entail? 16 Special yarns and fabrics 23 technical textiles 28

4 textile network | 5-6/2017 TEXPROCESS Hall 5.1, Booth B51 TECHTEXTIL Hall 4.1, Booth B72

09 – 12 May 2017 FRANKFURT/GERMANY

Conductive Sensory

Composites Indicate

AMANN INNOVATION LAB

AMANN's textile think-tank develops intelligent products, individual solutions and innovative concepts – not only for sewing and embroidery threads but also for textile surfaces. THINKING SOLUTIONS. content

44 | New chances for the industry Photo: Mimaki Photo: Photo: Messe Frankfurt Photo: Juki

Pho Photo: Amann to: Shut terstock 20 | Trade fair special

Quality Management 42 | Photo: Imbut Photo: fotolia Photo:

Visit online: www.textile-network.com Issue 5-6/2017

TRADE FAIR SPECIAL TRADE FAIR SPECIAL TRADE FAIR SPECIAL TRADE FAIR SPECIAL Karl Mayer Kuris Spezialmaschinen Pfaff Gherzi van Delden Building togheter for Absolute innovation in sewing the future 29 New Generation of Texcut 34 Opportunities besides Intel, curved jeans waistbands 37 Goggle and the like 44 Shima Seiki Zünd Systemtechnik The latest in Whole-Garment Digitizing is main focus 34 Typical-Europe Indien und Pakistan knitting technology 29 Innovative sewing and Things could be much better 46 Groz-Beckert Gertsch Consulting welding technology 38 Innovations of the product Personalized Clothing Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf areas 30 Frankl & Kirchner Industry 4.0 34 Textiles contribute to A fancy app with real Allma construction innovations and Human Solutions added value 38 High-quality premium yarns tomorrow's market shares 47 with even more flexibility 30 Digital transformation Dürkopp Adler Industrie 4.0 explained E-Broidery Elements at its best 35 Sewing production in Light enchantment with Part 3: Digitization is the digital age 38 textiles 30 Juki finding its way 48 Texprocess DDL-9000C – Digitalisation Invista Puma Digital textile printing a of the sewing Process 35 Shape the future of focal-point theme 31 sustainable textiles 39 Full speed ahead towards Mimaki Intex digitalisation 50 Printing made even more Brand new ERP and Dilo Group flexible 32 All about staple fibre PLM Software 36 PREVIEW / IMPRINT Gunold nonwoven production lines 39 Preview 53 „Cry“ – Crying with Hornung Indupress Happiness 32 A new height-adjustment TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY Imprint 53 Amann Group for shoulder pads 36 Leister Technologies Specialist threads and yarns 32 Stoll Laser welding 40 LAST BUT NOT LEAST Gerber Technology “Embrace Your Digital Modern Flat Knitting Groz-Beckert Talent competition Reality“ 33 technologies 37 INH Quality Management 42 Next 2016 54

6 textile network | 5-6/2017

M3438_LECTRA_Fashion_PLM_210x297_AW_de-en.indd 1 05.04.17 07:51 M3438_LECTRA_Fashion_PLM_210x297_AW_de-en.indd 1 05.04.17 07:51 trade fairs

Textile printing is more and more important in the home textile industry

cent and 6.8 percent respec- ing to sales. The India Pavilion tively. “The Chinese bathroom was organised by Powerloom textiles market is prospering. Development & Export Promo- Consumers are giving these tion Council (PDEXCIL). products greater attention, and The autumn edition of Shang- are looking for quality and hai Home Textiles is scheduled function,“ sayd Wendy Wen, to run from 23 to 26 August Senior General Manager Messe 2017. Frankfurt (HK) Ltd. “Last year’s [www.intertextilehome.com] spring fair met with an ex- tremely positive response from both exhibitors and visitors.“ Highlights of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles includ- ed the presence of reputed

Photo: Messe Frankfurt companies such as Lenzing, Cotton Council International INTERTEXTILE SHANGHAI HOME TEXTILES (CCI) and the India Pavilion. Around 200 exhibitors Lenzing, a leading supplier of cellulose fibres such as Tencel, Intertextile Shanghai Home event falled in the most impor- Lenzing Modal, Micro-Modal, The Highlights and Textiles opened its doors at the tant ordering period for Chi- Pro-Modal, Lenzing Viscose more information about National Exhibition and Con- nese buyers of bedding, bed and Lenzing FR, presented its the trade fair Fespa in vention Center in Shanghai linen and bathroom textiles. latest activities in the hotel Hamburg on from 15 to 17 March 2017. Current sales figures for the business. CCI appeared at the www.textile-network.com Around 200 exhibitors flock to Chinese market show steady spring fair for the first time, Shanghai every spring to pre- increases for bed linen and shedding light on the entire sent their latest collections. The bathroom textiles of 8.1 per- cotton supply chain from sourc-

MILANO UNICA Trends for 2018/2019

The official start of spring had Milano Unica, which is due to “Fashion and Cinema” was Unica will be presenting the only just been announced run at the Rho-Però exhibition chosen with purpose because results in July: Lights, camera, when, at the Museum of Sci- centre in the capital of Lom- both fashion and cinema re- action!

ence and Technology in Milan, bardy from 11 to 13 July, the quire exact direction to create Milan, Milano Unica and the the industry cast its gaze to the organisers shed light on the an excellent product. Milano Cathedral in Milan – great fabric and fashion trends for themes that the designers have 2018/19. In anticipation of created for their collections, giving the fabric industry the “heads-up” and the opportuni- Advertisement ty to prepare accordingly. During the Roadshow, Creative Director Stefano Fadda praised the excellent collaboration within the fashion industry that made the event possible. This sneak peek, well before the ac- tual fair, can be seen as a useful tool for fabric producers in in- terpreting and implementing www.adf3.stoll.com the trends as effectively as pos- sible. The slogan for this project

8 textile network | 5-6/2017 Photo: adpic PROPOSTE More international

After more than twenty years of adhering to strict criteria in the selection of its exhibi- tors, Proposte tentatively opened its doors to interna- tional participants in 2015, accepting three Turkish man- ufacturers for the first time. This expansion looks set to continue with an initial focus on the US market. With the admittance of MTL Inc. and J. B. Martin Co., the trade

Photo: Sachsenmaier Impressions Proposte fair intends to show the in- dustry that it embraces out- PROPOSTE CELEBRATES standing names from the in- Back to its roots ternational home textiles sector.Moreover, from 2017 After two years of staging rope and internationally. “25 collections themselves are ex- onwards, the German spe- Proposte in the last week of years represents an important hibited in a modern exhibition cialist Neutex Home Deco April, the organisers have re- milestone,” says Piercarlo Vi- centre which constitutes a and the Spanish company Hi- scheduled the fair, putting it ganò, President of Proposte branch of the Milan fair. jos de Antonio Ferre will like- back to its original dates at the which takes place at one of the Proposte is also an important wise take part in Proposte. beginning of May. And it ap- most beautiful venues in Eu- event for German trade buyers. Since the first Proposte fea- pears that these dates are here rope. The park around the his- Held in high esteem in the lux- turing 44 exhibitors, the fair to stay. Due to start on 3 May, torical villa which is situated on ury market, it attracts many has seen continual growth, the 25th anniversary edition of the shores of Lake Como, was German visitors. A German, a with exhibitor numbers ris- Proposte will open its doors at once owned by the Visconti Spanish and two American ing to 88 today. Proposte has Villa Erba in Cernobbio until 5 family and used, among others, companies are celebrating their grown from a small event for May 2017. In 25 years, the as the set for Lucchino Viscon- debut at this year’s Proposte. insiders to an important and trade fair has evolved into the ti’s film “Gattopardo”. [www.propostefair.it] exclusive exhibition of high- most important event for luxu- It is a perfect setting for this [Ingrid Sachsenmaier] quality fabrics for upholstery ry fabrics for upholstery, cur- luxury event which attracts an and soft furnishings. tains and soft furnishings in Eu- exclusive audience. The fabric

Besuchen ULTIMATIVER FOTODRUCK Sie uns vom Sublimationstransfer mit Sihl Sublicolor 8.–12. Mai auf der FESPA 2017 Sihl Sublicolor Papiere liefern im Dye-Sublimation-Verfahren einzigartige in Hamburg Bilder mit außergewöhnlicher Leuchtkraft und satten Farben. Halle A1, Stand B25

Egal ob auf Textilien oder auch auf Metall, Holz und Keramik, die Transfer- ergebnisse faszinieren mit eindrucksvoller Brillanz und einer erstaunlichen räumlichen Wirkung.

www.sihl.com SIHL SUBLICOLOR

5-6/2017 | textile network 9 trade fairs

Impressions of the Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics Spring Edition 2017 exhibition centre – entrance An unbeatable Photos: Schlomski sourcing platform The National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai is more than just huge and describing it is diffi- cult to put into words. In fact, you need to have seen it with your own eyes to really appreciate the sheer size of the site. It certainly begs the question whether such dimensions are really necessary?

Even the monumental stairway into and regions), the organisers were UK Hong Kong pointed out that it is the exhibition centre makes the visi- visibly delighted with the outcome not directly affected by the insolven- tor feel small and insignificant but of the spring event. Talking to tex- cy proceedings of its German parent perhaps that is the intention! Any- tile network, Wendy Wen, Senior company. Commenting on this situ- way, “one run, all done“, as they General Manager Messe Frankfurt ation, the Managing Director ex- say. This advertising slogan coined (HK) AG, stated: “Intertextile is one plained: “We are an independent by a large German supermarket of the most important events for the subsidiary and have been here in chain also applies to Intertextile, global textile market. Its standing Hong Kong since 1999. Our markets whose 3,341 exhibitors leave no has once again been corroborated are located outside Europe in the wish unfulfilled, offering every kind by the strong business results for US, India and China. We currently of fabric and trimming imaginable. both exhibitors and buyers. We’re employ 58 members of staff here in Divided into seven halls and clearly thrilled with the response and the Hong Kong, Beijing, Shanghai, New structured product groups, Intertex- high number of new business deals York, Los Angeles and Bangkok.” tile presented itself to its trade buy- struck during the three-day event.” The subsidiary’s in-house design ers as a smoothly organised trade team creates its own Asian and show for apparel fabrics. Having Union Knopf HK slightly sporty collection which is said that, it is almost impossible to Eberhard Ganns, Managing Director fresh and unconventional and re- cover all the ground in just three of Union Knopf (HK) Limited, was flects the leisurewear tastes of Asian days, especially given that the other impressed with the high quality of customers. So how does UK HK set exhibition halls were hosting the the trade buyers: “We come to In- itself apart from its competitors? Mr Yarn Expo (fibres and yarns), PH tertextile as exhibitors since many Ganns explains: “We offer an at- Value (knitting), Intertextile Home years and are still as happy as ever Textiles (home textiles) and Chic to be here because we always make The next edition of Intertextile (fashion) at the same time. Posting contact with potential new custom- Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, around 71,000 visitors from 103 ers. This season, 70 percent of the Autumn Edition 2017, takes countries and regions of the world visitors were either new or potential place from 11 to 13 October 2017. (2016: 71,163 from 100 countries customers which is phenomenal!”

10 textile network | 5-6/2017 spiration from Africa and India gives rise to shiny effects, with sumptuous gold and silver, as well as coloured metallic finishes. Fancy looks in vel- vet and silk round it all off.

Lanificio Comero tractive and comprehensive range of Forum, it soon became clear what On the left side: Worth In the Milano Unica section, Gabri- celebrating: 10 years services and creativity. We also offer the summer season 2018 has in of Hohenstein China, ele Giannini of the Italian wool good value for money. And we have store for the industry: “Nature, fu- which translates into weaving mill Lanificio Comero 90 staff in Hong Kong, the right answers for our customers ture and culture“. The colours ex- Shanghai, Guangzhou, pointed the way forward for high- when it comes to CSR and sustaina- tend from nuances of natural green, Fuzhou, Ningbo and quality menswear fabrics: Wool, lin- bility. Many companies in China are blue and brown for nature lovers to Qingdao as well as en, cotton and Lycra are the raw more than 1,000 cus- growing in size and quality, and are shades of canary yellow and loud tomers! materials that Italian fabric dreams therefore taking a strong interest in pink for the “Care for the future“ are made of, and are frequently On the right side: The our products. Around 20 per cent of theme. This youthful theme also em- Japan Pavilion pre- found in blends. A continuing trend, the visitors to UK HK’s stand were braces sustainability, with a con- sented 19 companies for example, are wool and linen from abroad including Asia, Europe scious decision to use recycled poly- as well as its own blends. The new natural stretch fab- trend forum and the USA.” ester, for example. Much interest rics are likewise in ever greater de- While talking to Ornelli Bignami, was also generated by the “Meet mand because they are easier to Creative Director Elementi Moda with Culture“ theme and its luxuri- process given their more limited and curator of the S/S 2018 Trend ous fusion of East and West. The in- elasticity. All this is made possible 

Zünd Hochleistungscutter, die nächste Stufe der Integration

• Vielseitig konfigurierbar • Einfache Integration in digitale Workflows • Ideal für individualisierte Textilien

Besuchen Sie uns auf der Texprocess 09. – 12. Mai, Halle 4.0, Stand B40 www.zund.com [email protected] T: +41 71 757 81 00 trade fairs

 by the interplay between the con- ality are high-quality shirt fabrics struction of the weave and the yarns with functionality. We only use pre- as well as the subsequent finishing mium quality fabrics and work to- process. Another innovation: wool gether with selected customers in- fabrics in a garment dye look. “Until terested in collaborating in the luxu- now, this look could only be Made in Italy – the in the linen business, with the big- ry segment. We’re hoping to build a achieved with cotton but now we Milano Unica Trend gest flax producers being Belgium, small but discerning circle of cus- Area can offer this trendy finish in wool the Netherlands and France. Euro- tomers here in China.“ fabrics as well,“ says Gabriele Gian- pean flax farmers account for 80 nini. The benefit? Woollen fabrics percent of global flax production. Cotton USA are far less prone to creasing than Even so, flax is still a relatively rare In Hall 4.2 at Intertextile Shanghai cotton and are therefore ideal for product, clinching just a one percent Home Show 2017, Cotton USA pre- business suits. Founded in 1950, the share of the world’s fibre demand. sented its new marketing strategy family-run business is fully integrat- And what makes flax so special? dubbed “Travel in Comfort with ed, producing everything from the Marie-Emmanuelle Belzung, Gener- Cotton the World Trusts“. With the fibre to the finished woollen fabric al Manager of Celc: “Above every- rapid rise of China´s economy and in two locations in the Biella region. thing else, flax is an extremely sus- tourism in the past decade, the hos- Every year, the company’s 120 staff tainable fibre with minimal water pitality industry in China and Asia produce approximately 3 million consumption and a high CO2 factor. has experienced meteoric growth. metres of medium to high-end wool- Besides its many other positive Cotton USA is introducing a hotel len fabrics. The enterprise believes properties, flax achieves excellent collection to potential partners and there is still plenty of potential for dyeing results. Flax is a versatile fi- licensees in the hospitality industry. exporting to China, with Chinese bre, ideal for all applications and Hotel partners can benefit by speci- customers currently accounting for easy to combine with other fibres. fying and highlighting theur use of no more than one percent of its total Linen can be used in all densities U.S. cotton-rich products so that in business. from ultra-light and transparent ba- turn their guests when staying at a tistes to the heaviest of canvas. It hotel can enjoy the safe and com- Linen in fashion can also be brought up to date with fortable feeling. Karin Malmström, The panel discussion on “Linen in coatings and textures to reflect any- Direktor des China and Northeast Fashion: Sustainable Trends and thing from casual to sophisticated Asia Cotton Council International: Consumer Answers“ generated trends right the way through to wa- “With our new slogan 'Cotton the plenty of interest. Organised by the terproof variations for outdoors.“ World Trusts' we are creating added Celc – the European Confederation value. We want to make it clear just of Linen and Hemp – it shed light on Grüezi Weba how high the quality of US cotton the cultivation methods of Europe’s Exhibiting at Intertextile for the first really is, not just in China.“ More in flax farmers and the many special Inspiration for S/S time was Weberei Appenzell from our next issue. 2018 was provided by properties of linen. 10,000 compa- the Trend Forum in the Switzerland, or Weba for short. Al- [www.intertextileapparel.com] nies in 14 EU countries are involved Trend Area in Hall 5.2 exander Barberi states, “Our speci- [Iris Schlomski]

12 textile network | 5-6/2017 research

Technology Platform Microencapsulation TPM The technology platform was established in 2009 and is the only network project on this topic in a German-speaking country. It concentrates and communicates knowledge on the topics of microencapsulation and particle applications, and identifies new ways to use them. Participants regularly receive information on the latest developments, publica- tions and patents in the areas of microencapsulation and particle applications. Furthermore, a workshop is organized on selected topics every two years. Those interested in the TPM can attend this event upon request. Photo: pixabay

Fraunhofer IAP Washable microcapsules that protect against insects and infection

The aim of the “Fraunhofer Lavender, peppermint and Technology Platform Microen- eucalyptus oil capsulation TPM” is to give The microencapsulation of es- more visibility to microencap- sential oils that protect, for in- sulation technology and to take stance, against viruses, mi- even better advantage of its crobes or insects, is one of the versatile potential. The plat- technology platform’s current form connects research institu- topics. Permanently affixed to tions and companies that are textiles, the capsules have to

active in the field of microen- remain effective and continue Photo: Fraunhofer IAP

capsulation or are interested in to release over time. Potential Even after multiple washings, the textile retains its color due to the blue microcapsules. this type of technology. It is applications are clothing and This shows how stable the capsules are and how well they are affixed to the textile jointly supported by the Fraun- household textiles, as well as hofer Institute of Applied Poly- medical, cosmetic and industri- ural materials – both for the these types of particles is a ma- mer Research IAP (Potsdam- al textiles – for instance, anti- particle shell and for the active jor challenge that requires a Golm) and the Fraunhofer Insti- microbial clothing for hospital ingredient – which are also en- range of expertise: precise tute for Chemical Technology staff, or bed covers with inte- vironmentally biodegradable,” knowledge about the chemistry ICT (Pfinztal), as well as the grated mosquito protection. says Jobmann. A one-year-old of the encapsulated oils and Fraunhofer Research Group “In order to ensure that the feasibility study was funded by the wall materials, competen- “Particle Technology and Raw textile retains its special effect the Federal Ministry of Food cies in the microencapsulation Material Innovation” at the even after it has been washed, and Agriculture (BMEL) through technology itself as well as its Nuremberg Institute of Tech- we are developing microcap- the Agency for Renewable Re- scale-up, and knowledge about nology. Eight companies are sules that can be charged sources (FNR), its project spon- the methods and auxiliaries currently participating in the through impregnation with the sor. This study, conducted by used to anchor the capsules to project, including BASF, Clari- active ingredient either directly the Fraunhofer IAP, shows that the textile. “TPM participants ant, Follmann, Lanxess, Lonza, during the washing process or the micro-containers can be at- support this and many other the August Koehler Paper Mill subsequently thereafter,” ex- tached to cotton fabric. This projects through their know and Symrise. In summer 2016 plains Monika Jobmann, micro- enables the active ingredient to how, materials and analytics,” the very successful project ex- capsule expert at the Fraun- be selectively dispensed and the Fraunhofer researcher is tended for a seventh round and hofer IAP. “We prefer using en- multiply recharged during or happy to report. another two years. vironmentally friendly and nat- after washing. Developing [www.iap.fraunhofer.de]

5-6/2017 | textile network 13 special fibres and yarns

Special fibres and yarns - Part 3 From research to

product Carbon fibres Photos: ITCF Lightweight design in architecture and the automotive field, medical engineering, energy and material sci- ences are all key terms that characterise the research landscape in Germany. Across the world, German high- tech innovations have the reputation for being particularly high quality and technologically advanced. Textile and fibre research accounts for a significant share of these innovations.

But how are such textile innova- We chose one textile research insti- blished composite fibres, such as tions developed? In which high- tute, the Institute of Textile Che- great strength and low weight,“ ex- tech areas are they firmly establis- mistry and Chemical Fibres (ITCF) in plains Dr Frank Hermanutz, Wor- hed? How are the new ideas gene- Denkendorf, southwest Germany, king Group Manager at the ITCF. rated that provide industry with the to give us some answers. Some 40 “At the same time, though, the ma- stimulus to develop new products? ITCF building scientists, engineers and laboratory terial is fully recyclable and, being technicians work here on the mate- an entirely natural substance, com- rial sciences of the future. Networks pletely biodegradable, as well as with other research institutes, fre- having an exceptionally eco-friend- quent contact with industry and ly and energy-efficient production well-grounded scientific approa- process. This gives us a product for ches are the key to answering these technical lightweight design appli- questions. cations that can meet the ever more demanding processing require- New materials to keep the ments for materials in a closed-loop environment in good health material cycle.“ First, we take a look at wet spin- The new material is a paradigm for ning techniques, where cellulose the way in which applied research fibres are produced by a system also contributes to implementing Institute of Textile Chemistry and Chemical consisting of several metres of societal goals. “The German Fibres (ITCF) stainless steel baths, drying cham- government specified in its high- bers and galettes that stretch and tech strategy the goals that Germa- - member of the German Institutes of Textile and wind. There is a long history, going ny should seek to support, in its Fibre Research (DITF), Germany's largest textile back eighty years, of spinning cellu- quest to be a leader of worldwide research centre - 50 employees lose in Denkendorf. To this day, the innovation,“ explains Prof. Michael - public foundation trust belonging to the state of breadth of experience with this ma- R. Buchmeiser, Institute Director at Baden-Württemberg terial continues to provide the basis ITCF. “The associated model of an - application-orientated, industry-related research, for new ideas, materials and appli- innovative Germany not only sets focusing on support for small and medium-sized cations. Purcell, a new type of com- out the conditions for a competitive industrial enterprises posite consisting of cellulose fibres industry but also emphasises its im- - Linked to the professorship at the University of in a matrix that is itself made of cel- portance to science and to society. Stuttgart Institute of Polymer Chemistry lulose, is one example. “Purcell has Both are significant elements when the same advantages as other esta- it comes to achieving such goals. As

14 textile network | 5-6/2017 CMC ceramic fibre composite material

a research institute, we find that such fibres. Their production at the we, and the range of topics in which ITCF, however, was made possible we are involved, are at the heart of only with the aid of spinnerets with several key elements of innovation particularly fine and regular holes. policy. Those topics include resour- This aspect was accomplished by ® ce efficiency and recyclability of the Institute of Laser Tools as the raw materials, and support for elec- University of Stuttgart. As part of a tric mobility through the use of tex- joint research project, modern laser tiles with integrated functionality technology was used in the deve- or for lightweight design.“ lopment of a process for laser dril- ling of fine, high-precision holes. At Networks promote exchange the ITCF, the prototypes were tes- of expertise ted on spinning processes. The re- In order to seize new trends in mate- gular exchange of expertise bet- rials development, however, it is also ween the institutes has led to quali- important to have strong links with tatively better outcomes. university institutes and other re- search establishments. The ITCF Young researchers for new meets this requirement especially ideas well: the Institute Director also holds The close connection with the uni- the chair at the University of versity also attracts young resear- Stuttgart's Institute of Polymer Che- chers with their fresh ideas to the mistry. Thus, ideas emerging from institute. Postgraduate students are pure research are also channelled in- therefore represented in all areas of to the application-orientated re- research and their work ensures a search carried out at the ITCF. The good theoretical grounding for pro- exchange of knowledge with resear- duct development. “The findings chers from other areas of specialism from undergraduate dissertations encourages 'thinking outside the and postgraduate theses are used box' and synergies are created that directly in our research projects,“ can lead to completely new products. explains Dr Bernd Clauss, who regu- Laser-drilled spinnerets, used in the larly supervises doctoral and mas- production of extremely fine fibres, ters students in his working group. are one example of this. These cel- “They carry our research work reso- lulose 'super microfibres', as they lutely forward. Many companies – are known, have some unusual pro- from small and medium-sized enter- perties, due to their particularly lar- prises to large groups – can no lon- ge surface area. They are very good ger afford their own research de- Innovative, at absorbing moisture and feel ple- partments. They rely on support asantly soft to the touch. Various from external research institutes technical textiles applications in the fields of hygie- and thus they too benefit from stu- ne, clothing and industrial enginee- dents' research. It is a symbiotic be- ring are able to take advantage of nefit, as it can also often open the  Automotive Commercial Vehicles REM Zeiss Auriga Railway, Marine, Aviation Industrial, Medical Sports

Techtextil 2017 Hall 3.1 / Booth G 75 9.–12. 05. 2017 Frankfurt a. M. www.acker.de

P170059_Thema_Anzeige_Textile_Network_5/6_2017_06_04_2017.indd 2 06.04.17 09:49  door to the first job for our post- Textile pulp INTERVIEW for ceramic graduates. And this collaboration fibres/Dry- Fibre research – what does it entail? is equally important to the institu- spinning te itself, because we need to stay We recently invited Dr. Stephanie what makes our daily work so ex- close to the end product, the appli- Pfeifer, a budding scientist at the citing and allows us to approach is- cation, all the time, so that we are Institute of Textile Chemistry and sues from completely different an- undertaking work that can be profi- Chemical Fibres (ITCF) in Denkend- gles. I’m still fascinated by the fact tably employed in industry.“ orf and a Doctor of Chemistry (Uni- that ceramics, which by their very The working group led by Dr Clauss versity of Stuttgart), to speak to us nature are brittle and easy to break, is working on the development of about this fascinating topic. The can be used to produce fibres that ceramic fibres and the composite close scientific links between the are considerably thinner than a hu- materials that can be made from ITCF Denkendorf and the Institute man hair. We process these fibres them. These extraordinary fibres for Polymer Chemistry in Stuttgart into ‘Ceramic Matrix Composites’, not only have the high-tensile pro- have led her into the field of fibre otherwise known as CMCs. These perties of familiar carbon fibres but chemistry. are fibre composite materials that can also withstand temperatures of are made solely from ceramics and over 1,100 °C. A ceramic fibre com- Textile network: Dr. Pfeifer, ce- boast special properties. posite in which the fibres are con- ramic fibres are a relatively un- tained in a matrix made of the sa- known product in the world of fibre Textile network: What industrial me ceramic material reveals some and textile manufacturing. How applications lend themselves to remarkable properties. Even under does your research field differ from these composite materials? severe mechanical strain and extre- others? Stephanie Pfeifer: For the most me temperature differences, this Stephanie Pfeifer: Working with part, CMCs lend themselves to ap- material remains stable and shows ceramic fibres means that you have plications requiring materials that no evidence of brittle fracturing. It to think in interdisciplinary terms. can withstand high temperatures is a small but highly specialised Our research not only focuses on and are not susceptible to mechani- market in which ceramic fibres, chemistry but it also embraces cal failure even when exposed to commanding prices of well over findings from fields such as mate- sudden and great fluctuations in 1,000 euros per kilo, are able to as- rial science and physics. This is temperature. In energy engineer- sert themselves. They belong to the technical textiles sector – a branch of the industry in which fibres have or fibres with a large surface area comes full circle. Because although to demonstrate particular qualities for technical filter media. The wide the ITCF is well placed as far as if they are to gain acceptance for variety of these high-tech products high-end analytics are concerned, demanding technical applications. is reflected in the demands made interchange with scientists from on the analytics that are necessary neighbouring disciplines using dif- Technical textiles as a model for their development. X-ray struc- ferent measurement techniques is for the future tural analyses, rheology, mass often still highly beneficial when it Technical textiles represent a parti- Ceramic fibres spectroscopy and electron micro- comes to answering new questions. cular focus of the research spect- scopy are the tools used to define A Tuesday morning in the ITCF se- rum at ITCF, whether they the structure of the new materi- minar room: every last space is oc- are carbon fibres from natu- als and to guide specifications. cupied by institute staff and guests ral raw materials such as And this is where the networking from the university arena, atten- lignin and cellulose, self-re- of the research establishments ding the regular colloquium. For the pairing fibres for composites

Purcell composite material REM image of ceramic fibre Purcell microscopic cross-section

16 textile network | 5-6/2017 special fibres and yarns

INTERVIEW Fibre research – what does it entail?

ing, stationary gas turbines or burner Stephanie Pfeifer: Pure research posites e.V.’ society. These are nozzles in furnaces are frequently clad and industrial relevance are not al- great places for finding contacts with CMCs. The material is also wide- ways easy to reconcile in the world to companies and research insti- ly used in the aviation and aerospace of science and yet they are both of tutes. It’s also really important for industry: some of the components in elementary importance. To be able me to forge personal contacts. aeroplane engines, for example, can to align my research topics to indus- Conferences and committees that be made from CMCs. In fact, this ma- trial needs, I not only need to work support projects also provide op- terial is increasingly making inroads in a modern research environment Dr. Stephanie Pfeifer, a portunities to meet and discuss is- budding scientist at in this sector, as it is gradually being but I also depend upon hands-on the ITCF Denkendorf, sues with industry representa- used in certain commercial planes as feedback from the industry. I benefit talks to textile net- tives. This is an important founda- standard. Medicine is another excit- greatly from professional networks work tion for developing new ideas. ing area for ceramic fibre composite such as the ‘Allianz faserbasierter The autonomous and creative materials. Under certain circumstanc- Werkstoffe’ (Alliance of fibre-based working environment at our re- es, it can be used as a substitute for materials) and the ‘Ceramic Com- search institute gives us plenty of bone. Human tissue widely accepts scope to create new research ap- this material as a substrate and it proaches. And, of course, I need Dr. Stephanie Pfeifer successfully completed her dis- generally has good physiological access to state-of-the-art labora- sertation and doctoral thesis in Denkendorf and joi- properties. It will, however, be some tories and technology centres to ned the ITCF with her research focus “Oxidic cera- time before it can be marketed for ap- be able to advance my research. mic fibres for high-temperature applications”. Since plications of this kind. We still have a completing her doctoral thesis under the supervisi- lot of development work to complete Dr. Pfeifer, many thanks for talk- on of Prof. Dr. Buchmeiser, she has assumed the role before reaching this stage. ing to us! of Scientific Assistant in the Working Group led by Dr. Clauß where she has been supervising projects Textile network: What conditions on the development of ceramic fibres and ceramic The interview was conducted by do you need to ensure your research fibre composite materials since the middle of 2014. Ulrich Hageroth on behalf of tex- is relevant to industry? tile network.

most part, lectures on specialist to- only through such collaboration doors. The exchange of experience pics are given by representatives of that exciting ideas are born which and knowledge, together with solid industry or scientists from other re- are then brought to fruition in mul- technical expertise, are the key to search institutes. “Close collabora- tidisciplinary projects.” innovation in textiles – and to the tion with representatives of other By now, one thing is clear: marketa- future of the German economy. institutions is very important to us,” ble products no longer emerge from [www.itcf-denkendorf.de] comments Prof. Buchmeiser. “It is behind the researchers' closed [Ulrich Hageroth]

Techtextil : 3.0 J12

High-speed cap embroidery Weinstetter Straße 1 72474 Winterlingen Tel: 07577 / 9313 - 0 [email protected] www.mountek.de No flutte

Frame support Large bag Texprocess : 6.0 B11 support

5-6/2017 | textile network 17 We look forward to seeing you! In cooperation with the European Space Agency (ESA) and will start at 10am in the morning and 3pm in the af- and the German Aerospace Centre (DLR), Techtextil in ternoon. The interviews will be held by textile network’s Frankfurt am Main is presenting “Living in Space” from Editor-in-Chief, Iris Schlomski, the President of the VDMD, 9 to 12 May 2017, which highlights diverse applications René Lang, and the Managing Director of the VDMD, Ma- for technical textiles using aerospace as an example. Tex- ra Michel. The programme of interviews can be found at process, which runs concurrently, will also be involved, www.textile-network.de and www.vdmd.de. It is also presenting four themes that spotlight high-tech textiles available at our stand and in the list of events advertised and textile processing technologies from and for the ae- by the fair. rospace industry. We would like to invite you to engage in an active dia- Under the heading “Space in Living”, we at textile net- logue, to network at our stand and also to chill with us work are presenting our innovative “Chill Lounge” at our every evening from 5pm. Stand F86 in the Foyer of Hall 4.1 in collaboration with the Association of German Fashion and Textile Designers Come and visit us at Stand F86 in the Foyer of Hall 4.1 (VDMD). Every day, we will be holding several short inter- (between Halls 5/6 and 3) from 9 to 12 May 2017. views with interesting personalities from the industry. They will take place on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday We look forward to seeing you there! Photo: DLR

18 textile network | 5-6/2017 trade fair special

Techtextil/Texprocess 2017 The industry takes off

The Techtextil exhibition in Making, Trimming (CMT), CAD/ Textile processing Frankfurt/Main, Germany, is CAM and digital printing have technologies for applications for technical the international fair for techni- all been grouped into Hall 4.0. aerospace textiles and four theme areas, cal textiles and nonwovens. Exhibitors operating in this In cooperation with the Euro- shedding light on high-tech More than 1,600 exhibitors field are exhibiting here from pean Space Agency (ESA) and textiles and textile processing from over 50 countries will be both fairs. Hall 4.0 will thus ac- the German Aerospace Centre technologies from and for the present at the Techtextil exhibi- commodate design, IT, CAD/ (DLR), Techtextil is presenting aerospace industry. The high- tion 2017, covering the com- CAM, CMT and digital printing “Living in Space”, which high- light of this area is a virtual re- plete value added chain in the as well as the special area IT@ lights the diverse applications ality experience which will take field of technical textiles. The Texprocess. for technical textiles and their visitors to Techtextil and Tex- product groups include re- processing using aerospace as process on a virtual journey search and development, plan- an example. through space where they will ning and consulting, technolo- Hall 6.1 of Techtextil will be learn where technical textiles gy, machines and accessories home not only to the exhibitors are used and how they are pro- as well as fibres and yarns, of functional textiles for cloth- cessed. nonwovens, coated ing but also to an interactive [techtextil.messefrankfurt.com] textiles and Bondtec. Special Area, which is based on [texprocess.messefrankfurt.com]

This is an opportunity Photos: freepik.com for all applications to be discussed and the necessary production machinery to be ex- plained.

The Texprocess fair, also in Frankfurt am Main, is the inter- national fair for the garment manufacturing and textile pro- cessing industry. It showcases DISCOVER THE TRUE the latest machines, plant, pro- STRENGTH OF THE SEAM cesses and services for the pro- cessing of textile and flexible materials. Texprocess is wit- See you nessing growth particularly in texprocess 2017 the fields of CAD/CAM and cut- Hall 5.1 | Booth C90 ting, making, trimming (CMT). Steady increases are being re- corded for the product groups stitching, joining and fastening technology and materials which have always attracted a lot of interest.

Texprocess takes place concur- rently with Techtextil, the inter- national fair for technical tex- tiles and nonwovens. To sharp- en the definition of the fair, the product segments Cutting,

Seams unlimited trade fair special

Biodegradability of textile products Human Solutions This year's highlight is the Digital Fashion Board, which replaces the analog Moodboard and captures the spirit and era of modern digitali- sation. It is vital that the solutions that drive digitalisation in the ap- parel industry are networked. In the case of the Digital Fashion Board, this means product development and visualisation in 3D – with information that comes straight from the company’s PLM sys- tem. The Digital Fashion Board is used to make faster – and conse- quently cost-saving – decisions on the pieces that are to be included in a collection. The decisions made with the help of the Board are based on virtual prototypes, even before a piece has been sewn. This solution also makes communication with partner companies much easier. And that's not all – Human Solutions will also have some sur- prises for visitors on the topic of “Digitalisation at its best.“ [Texprocess | Hall 4.0 Booth C21]

exhibition highlight HOHENSTEIN GROUP Passion for textiles – from an idea to a market success Photo: Hohenstein Institute

Exhibits on the subject of the biodegradation of textiles will be replacement for per- and polyfluorinated hydrocarbons that are one of the key focuses of the presentation. Experts from the De- potentially dangerous to humans and the environment. velopment and Services departments will be available for personal As part of a ZIM research project, the researchers at Hohenstein are discussions with trade show visitors, both at our booth and then currently developing a thermoelectric cooling bandage for mobile at a total of five specialist presentations as part of the Techtextil cold therapy for acute injuries and post-operation treatment. The symposium and Texprocess forum. difference from conventional cooling systems such as cool packs or The biodegradability of textile products is becoming an increas- compressors is the controlled, constant and moderate cooling in- ingly important factor in assessing their sustainability, focussing volved, which prevents cold injuries up to and including frostbite. not just on manufacturing and product safety, but on what hap- An important key focus of the project is the composition of layers of pens to a product once it reaches the end of its useful life cycle. At flexible textile and polymer materials with high thermal conductiv- the trade show booth and at the Texprocess forum organised by ity with the integration of electronic components in mind. the Dialog Textil-Bekleidung (DTB), a team of Hohenstein experts Following on from the Greenpeace Detox Campaign and the will present an internally developed test procedure for assessing Roadmap for the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) the biodegradation of textiles and demonstrating the marketing Initiative, the subject of responsible chemicals management in opportunities provided by certification and product labels. companies along the textile chain has recently been growing in Hohenstein scientists are currently involved in a collaborative pro- importance and priority as a means of excluding identified harm- ject to develop protein-based water and dirt-repellent finishing ful chemicals from production by 2020. Using the Oeko-Tex modu- agent to provide an alternative to hydrophobic processes using lar system of certifications and tools for increased sustainability as fluorocarbon chemicals (PFC), which are still in common use. The a basis, Hohenstein provides companies with solutions for incre- aim is to functionalise textiles in a stable, economical and sustain- mentally optimising their chemicals management systems to meet able way using fungal proteins produced with biotechnology as a these market requirements successfully. Hohenstein is providing its expertise in the area of pattern making techniques and fitting tests as a contribution to the lecture on “Is- sues with Fitting in Online Trade”. Nowadays, experienced cloth- ing technicians provide individual support for many renowned companies in developing clothing with the optimum fit. The latest findings from research projects and serial measurements per- formed by the Hohenstein Institute are constantly being incorpo- rated into the wide range of services on offer. Some of the most recent findings, for instance, include the latest data on breast vol- umes for women, enabling further improvements to be made to bra cup sizes. [www.hohenstein.de]

Photo: Hohenstein [Techtextil | Hall 3.1 Booth B21] Hohensteiner Institute, Aerial View

20 textile network | 5-6/2017 Mass-produced gas diffusion layers for fuel cells EMS-GRILTECH Photo: Freudenberg Speciality products for technically demanding applications FREUDENBERG PERFORMANCE MATERIALS Innovative solutions for energy storage and EMS-Griltech presents with its Grilon fibers and yarns custom- sports wear designed solutions for the bonding of technical textiles. Griltex Copolyester and Copolyamide adhesives are used for coating Freudenberg Performance Materials will be presenting innovative and laminating technical fabrics, nonwovens, clothing textiles solutions for e-mobility and stationary energy storage: gas diffu- and non-textile substrates. Grilon melt bonding yarns and bind- sion layers for fuel cells, high-performance electrodes for redox- er fibers, Grilon bicomponent binder fibers and Griltex hot melt flow batteries and ultra-thin, ceramic-impregnated separators for adhesives are key components in the reinforcement of technical lithium-ion batteries. Other highlights will include a new dimen- textile constructions. Griltex Copolyesters are used to bond sion in thermal insulation: comfortemp fiberball padding. This the smooth surfaces such as PET or aluminium. The flexibility of the first ever padding made from fiberballs combines the advantages adhesives compensates the tension between substrates with of loose down fillings and padding in a quality that has not previ- different expansion coefficients. Nexylon FR is the world's first ously been achieved. For example, thermal insulation is as much flame-retardant polyamide fiber. Using this fiber the working as 80 percent higher than conventional padding while the new life of flame-resistant protective wear can be significantly in- material is as light and soft as down. Lifestyle brand Napapijri will creased. Wearing comfort is also much higher with its soft launch the “Superlight Parka” for the 2017 Fall/Winter season uti- touch. There is potential for other interesting applications in lizing their owned Thermo-Fibre technology powered by comfor- technical textiles requiring inherent flame resistance. temp fiberball padding. [www.emsgriltech.com] [www.freudenberg-pm.com] [Techtextil | Hall 3.0 Booth D47] [Techtextil | Hall 3.1 Booth F37]

Griltex Copolyesters are used to bond smooth surfaces such es PET or aluminium Photo: EMS Griltech

Perfection down to the smallest detail.

If you are looking competence from Germany for 111 years to …

…increase productivity through digitalisation, automa- tion, robotics and excellent, reliable sewing technology, then you should make a point of visiting our stand. www.mayercie.com [Dürkopp Adler AG] [Texprocess | Hall 5.1 Booth B90]

5-6/2017 | textile network 21 SENBERT KNITTING TRENDS Fully-fashion and Senbert shows flat-knitted textiles based on fully-fashion and 3D-knit- 3D-knitting techniques ting techniques “The main advantage of flat knitting technology is that it is possible to produce visual innovative and multi-functional textiles with a high degree of automation and with less mate- rial waste, which guarantees a sustainable manufacturing process”, explains Erhard Senbert, owner of the company Photo: Senbert GmbH which was founded in 1951. Typical features are for instance: breathability, moisture management, stability, elasticity, vis- ibility, conductivity, abrasion resistance, sound absorption, cushioning, cut- and piercing resistance and lightness. Senbert develops and produces the knits at the company site in Bad Kötzting in close collaboration with their customers. FROHN HIGHTEX GROUP The production is supported by the Czech partner company Fabric innovations for still more protection “Duo Mode spol. s.r.o”. The modern and diverse knitting machinery, with 45 flat-knit- In the division Pro-Belting of the Frohn Hightex Group a new ge- ting automates (gauges E03 to E14) and the affiliated after- neration of woven fabrics have been created by further develop- treatment and assembling department offers different possi- ment of the patented technology for producing high visible co- bilities of knitted products from small-batch to large-scale lors on fire retardant fabrics, made of Nomex in hi-vis yellow and production. As the knitting technique can be used for many Protex Q/Cotton in hi-vis orange, according to DIN EN ISO 20471 purposes, Senbert has customers from different branches. in connection with DIN EN 1149, DIN EN 469 or DIN EN ISO And for this reason the company supplies its goods in particu- 11611 and DIN EN ISO 11612. A further development is a fabric lar to well-known shoe labels, furniture manufacturers, sup- (according to DIN EN ISO 15797), made of special fibers, which plier for workwear and protective clothing. is industrial washable till pH 12, without noticeable lost of color [www.senbert.de] intensity and stability; this fabric, which is free of aramides, is [Techtextil | Hall 3.1 Booth F23] stabile against sourness and lyes and no aperture results at strong heat. [www.frohn-textil.de] [Techtextil | Hall 3.1 Booth H82]

Innotect GmbH in Crimmitschau is an innovative, medium-sized com- pany. The group also includes Ipro- tex, based in Münchberg, Germany

IPROTEX

Techtextil 2017 Innotect Photo:

The company group Iprotex/ Innotect has two manufacturing sites in Germany and further locations worldwide. This inno-

Photo: pixabay Photo: vative, medium-sized company specialises in developing and Pro-Belting created a new generation of fire retardant fabrics producing high-quality textile products for cable and hose protection in different industrial applications. The main focus is on processing yarns from polyester, polyamide and glass. Interesting materials such as Aramid (otherwise known as If you are looking Kevlar) are used for crash and heat protection as they are de- signed to withstand extreme conditions. Production process-

to … es range from braiding, weaving and knitting. The company’s technical textils are used by all major OEMs for automotive, railway, aerospace, medicine and composite applications. … answers about digitization? Would you like to dis- Furthermore, we offer a wide range of individual products cuss your company's position on the topic with us and customised solutions. and find out more about the solutions we can offer [www.iprotex.com] you? You can be sure of a warm welcome! [Techtextil | Hall 3.1 Booth F68] [Human Solutions] [Texprocess | Hall 4.0 Booth C21]

22 textile network | 5-6/2017 Ettlin Lux is a special fabric that generates fascinating trade fair special three-dimensional light struc- tures from LED light Photo: Ettlin ETTLIN Special yarns and fabrics Efka – Frankl & Kirchner “We are committed to continuing with our 130 years of As a special exhibition highlight, the company will showcase its experience in the sewing industry and want to go for- novel architectural fabric – the transparent yet cooling, weather ward together with our customers. That is why we hope resistant and anti-glare protection Ettlin Trans-Proof. Thanks to its to engage in an intensive dialogue with our customers dense surface, the fabric offers outstanding sun shading properties with a view to continually improving our products. Our and protection against moisture and humidity. At the same time aim is to explore our customer requirements in greater Ettlin Trans-Proof ensures a high level of air permeability. The re- depth in the future. In concrete terms, this means that sult: Cooling shade and no risk of heat build-up. The brightness of the simple implementation of bespoke requirements airy spaces is retained due to a special finish that filters wave- will be at the centre of our future developments. Only lengths and reduces harmful UV radiation. This makes Ettlin through smart applications can the many advantages of TransProof the perfect fabric for awnings, sunshades and carports. the Efka drives and controls continue to generate real Another exciting high-tech material presented by the textile expert added value for our customers.” is Ettlin Lux, a special fabric that generates fascinating three-di- [Texprocess | Hall 5.1 Booth B71] mensional light structures from LED light. It is suitable for the most diverse applications. So it is used not only in the field of architec-

ture and stage construction, for trade fair and shopfitting applica- tions, ceiling and wall covering, but also for furniture applications and car interiors. Visitors can gain an insight into the fascinating effects of this high-tech material used for a 1.40-metre circular lu- exhibition highlight minaire that decorates the joint Baden-Wuerttemberg stand. It al- so highlights a trade fair counter which stands out thanks to its colourful design in Baden-Wuerttemberg’s colours of black and gold. Both Ettlin Trans-Proof and Ettlin Lux are produced using weaving machines with Easy-Leno technology. This method allows Ettlin to provide a wide range of completely new and unique prod- ucts. Individual, customized designs can thus be implemented eas- ily – even for smaller batches. Thanks to this technology, it is pos- sible to perfectly combine functionality and design as impressively demonstrated by Ettlin Trans-Proof and Ettlin Lux. [www.ettlin.de] GEOS pattern development system Our pattern development system offering a wide range [Techtextil | Hall 3.1 Booth D81] of software options for Stoll© machines is based on a PC solution and is closely aligned to Apple's handling features.

Photo: Innotect Photo: Available in laptop, starter and complete versions. Upgrades for existing PCs, colour prints and colour chart prints on CLC10 colour printers. NEW: Apple disc drive for reading and writing Apple pattern disks on the Sirix® system. ESCHLER TEXTIL "abm" conversion kit Specialist in high-tech knitted fabrics for numerically controlled machines with CNC technology. This kit transforms your NC machine into a B-compatible Eschler Textil GmbH, a subsidiary of the Swiss company Schoeller machine. Installing it is easy. Insert cards are removed from the Textil AG, celebrated its 50th anniversary in fall 2016. Eschler is a switchboard and the "abm" cards are inserted. The screen and keyboard are plugged in - and there you have it! All specialist in high-tech knitted fabrics and is regarded as a compe- ANVH-B tapes, programs and patterns are now available tent partner for innovative fabric developments for technical appli- to you. Spare parts and special models for older machines. cation purposes. The philosophy of the company, managed in sec- © by H. Stoll GmbH & Co., D-72762 Reutlingen ® Sirix is a registered trademark of ond generation by Matthias Eschler, is to produce speciality instead H. Stoll GmbH & Co., D-72762 Reutlingen of mass products. The DIN ISO 9001:2001 certified company with 50 employees generated a turnover of eleven million Euro last year. If you would like to find out more about our products simply contact us at: Since 2016 Eschler is a registered bluesign System Partner. [www.eschler.de] GEOS Textilmaschinen Computer GmbH & Co. KG [Techtextil | Hall 3.1 Booth E72] Hauptstraße 40 D-72359 Dotternhausen Tel. ++49 7427 69002 Velour Spacer with different structures Fax ++49 7427 69004

Photos: Eschler Textil 5-6/2017 | textile network 23 A wide range of services in trade fair special the field of textile dyeing – the speciality of Gebr. Wylach Textilveredlung Photo: Gebr. Wylach

TEXTILAUSRÜSTUNG PFAND GEBRÜDER WYLACH Sustainability is main focus All about textile dyeing

Beside the classical finishing technologies eco-friendly chemicals, “In addition to pure yarn dyeing and related special equip- like fluorocarbon- free hydrophobic substances, are more and more ment, the range of customer-related services also includes used in the company Textilausrüstung Pfand GmbH for different tex- mechanical processes such as twisting and spool winding. tile applications. As an example, unique, embroidered or printed Yarns in strengths from 20 to 15,000 decitex can be pro- nonwovens based on flax fibres are finished with this eco-friendly cessed, the company is specialized in technical yarns. With chemistry. These finishes flax based nonwovens are used for the cre- the help of ultramodern and computer-controlled machines, ation of better climatic conditions in housing. Further applications process reliability and reproducibility of procedures can be for this kind of finishing are upholstery and textiles for sports. guaranteed. Quality control based on ISO-standards is in- Further novelties are functionalisation of partly voluminous warp- stalled by an in-house laboratory“, says the company. knitted/spacer and circular-knitted fabrics. One example for this [www.gebrueder-wylach.de] kind of finishing is the common development of new blankets for [Techtextil | Hall 3.0 Booth J55] medical and care, which was carried out together with partner com- panies and institutions. Energy consumption and duration for clean- ing these blankets are obviously reduced compared to standard products. In addition to this, the new blankets show a longer me- chanical life cycle. Veit Group [www.pfand-textil.de] Innovative developments in the fields of hand ironing [Techtextil | Hall 3.1 Booth E40] technology and steam generation as well as the Veit shirt finisher, Brisay pressing machines and the new ge- neration of Veit fusing machines will form the focus of Veit’s appearance at this year’s Texprocess.

[Texprocess | Hall 6.0 Booth B57] Fluorocarbon-free hydrophobic finishing of flax based nonwovens Photo: Pfand

TITV GREIZ/IMBUT GMBH A new path to light-emitting textiles exhibition highlight

In a move to produce light-emitting textiles economically, the TITV benefits of embroidery technology really come into their own. In Greiz, the Institute for Special Textiles and Flexible Materials, has addition to highlighting this sophisticated technology that can modified conventional knitting technology to accommodate the ful- easily be integrated into existing production processes, it is also ly automatic production of conductor paths, and the mounting and worth mentioning the design freedom that this option brings. The bonding of LEDs. The innovation is based on the functional LED flex pattern programming function for embroidery machines means substrate – Functional Sequin Devices (FSD) – in conjunction with that the LED-FSDs can be stitched onto the textiles in any freely modified sequin heads from embroidery machine makers Tajima determined arrangement. and ZSK. For the world’s first automated production of light-emit- [www.imbut.de] ting textiles, the sequins used in fashion have been altered to serve [Techtextil | Hall 3.1 Booth A01] as the carriers for the LEDs and other miniaturised components. Until now, light-emitting textiles would be created by weaving or For the world’s first automated production of light-emitting textiles, the sequins used in stitching flexible conductor paths into the textile. In a subsequent fashion have been altered to serve as the carriers for the LEDs and other miniaturised components step away from the machine, tweezers would be used to manu- ally position, solder and bond the tiny LEDs on the conductor paths. The imprecision associated with this task and the time tak- en to execute it made production costly to the extreme, making it Photo: Imbut impossible to manufacture light-emitting textiles commercially and limiting the method to small areas and prototypes. The new manufacturing technology paves the way for a complete- ly automated process for mounting the components on the tex- tiles. In conjunction with this automated solution, the well-known

24 textile network | 5-6/2017 SANDLER Street 3.1, Number D54 – welcome in the world of nonwovens At this year‘s Techtextil exhibition, Sandler AG invites visitors to a garden of nonwoven novelties at no. D54: A veritable bouquet of high-tech materials for acoustic insulation in the home and the office, for transportation, and for filtration awaits the pro- fessional audience on an excursion to the home of innovative nonwovens. At home is the watchword, because Sandler nonwovens for var- ious applications render our home more comfortable. Fibercomfort insulation materials are applied in the roof and in walls, providing for rooms at a pleasant temperature and at the same time helping to conserve energy. In partition walls sound- insulating nonwovens create optimum conversational acoustics. These textile solutions also provide for a quieter every-day work- life in office partitions, additionally functioning as a design fea- ture for individual room design. The product range offers the right acoustic nonwoven for every application: soft and volumi- nous or self-supporting and compact; with an open-pore surface of especially smoothed; white, black or a marble-like shade in colour – these textiles can be adapted to customer require- ments. They can also be finished with print or embossed motifs or laminated with different fabrics. Filter media provide clean air to breath – for optimum indoor air quality at home as well as in industrial buildings. Sandler’s latest development for this application are “enAIRsave“ pocket filter media. Apart from excellent filtration performance, they put a premium on energy conservation. On the go, Sandler nonwovens ensure a comfortable drive, par- ticularly on long trips – in the automobile, in bus, train or the working vehicle at the construction site. [www.sandler.de] [Techtextil | Hall 3.1 Booth D54] Photo: fotolia

Welcome in the world of nonwo- vens at Sandler´s home in Frankfurt at Techtextil You are looking for …

... an innovative and reliable technology supplier for the challenges of tomorrow, you should definitely look at the booth. As one of the market leader in the manufacturing of electronic drive motor and controls for industrial sewing machines we remain oriented in the latest industry trends. [Efka – Frankl & Kirchner] [Texprocess | Hall 5.1 Booth B71]

170403_AZ_4Krempel_TekNet_105x297_Techtextil_GB.indd 1 03.04.17 17:02 Getzner's textiles are used as balloon and sail materials and else- where

GETZNER TEXTIL Skills and opportunities meet technical textiles from Getzner

Getzner Textil AG was founded as a family business in Bludenz, Mobility includes upholstery fabrics using various production Austria, in 1818. Today it is one of the world's leading producers technologies such as jacquard velours, high quality dobby velours of high quality damask clothing fabric (Africa damask), fashion fa- and jacquard flat woven textiles; high quality light and heavy fila- brics for shirts, blouses and corporate fashion, and the latest ment fibres are also produced, together with customer-specific fi- string to its bow, technical textiles. nal make-ups. Technical textiles is a field that has risen significantly in value and The field of technical textiles includes Getzner woven products undergone notable development in recent years for Getzner Textil, made from filament and staple fibre yarns, as well as the finishing specifically through strategic acquisitions and the expansion of its of knitted, crocheted and woven fabrics made from cotton, visco- own facilities and resources, so that the company is today an im- se, polyester, aramids and blends of fibre and filament. portant partner for several international customers of repute. Warmth and protection – these have always been the two core The textiles are used primarily in the fields of functional clothing, functions of textile fabrics. Through combinations of various ma- industry and for balloons and sails. Getzner's research and deve- terials and the use of high-tech weaving processes, the range of lopment makes use of the best-equipped laboratories and its own possibilities has now vastly increased. Getzner textiles, for examp- teams, providing textile solutions that use all kinds of fibres. le, can provide functions such as waterproofing, antibacterial pro- Alongside the development of individual, technologically highly tection, moisture control, temperature control, flame retardancy, demanding textiles, it supplies its customers with a wide range of lightness, elasticity, antistatic function, high tensile strength and base products that can be individualised in many different ways. abrasion resistance. The range is divided into two product sectors: mobility and tech- [www.getzner.at] nical textiles. [Techtextil | Hall 6.1 Booth B99]

ONTEC The clever solution for efficient production of textile scrims

Anyone looking for clever solutions for textiles should not pass up is also possible to feed in different materials such as non-wovens, the opportunity to visit Ontec. The company specialises in the films and similar and to laminate and dry them onto the scrim fab- FASCINATING NONWOVENS manufacture of textile scrims which are generally around 20 to 40 ric. Either one or two layers can be fed in at the same time. percent thinner than a woven fabric of identical construction and [www.ontec-automation.de] with comparable strength values. In the finished product, the grid [Techtextil | Hall 3.1 Booth J24] structure of these textile scrims is less obvious to the eye, result- ing in a smoother, more uniform surface. Depending on the yarn type, either Latex, acrylate or PVC dispersions/PVC plastisols can be used for bonding. Ontec specialises in The non-woven textile scrim is subsequently pre-set through con- the manufacture of tact roller drying and then completely dried in an IR drying step. It textile scrims

products: • fashion and sports clothing • safety clothing • upholstery • shoe uppers • 3D-Knit and knits by the metre services: • individual & customized development Senbert GmbH · Böhmerwaldstraße 2 · • up to date & versatile machinery D-93444 Bad Kötzting · +49 (0)9941 / 9454 0 · • co-working with textile-finisherstextile-partners

[email protected] · www.senbert.de • material testing & research Photo: Contec

26 textile network | 5-6/2017 Sandler AG • Telefon: +49 92 84/60-0 • Fax: +49 92 84/60-205 • E-Mail: [email protected] • www.sandler.de USA: Hahl Inc., Lexington – South Carolina. The Perlon

Group is expanding Photo: Perlon

PERLON GROUP The filament company invests

Just over a year after the merger of Perlon Nextrusion and Hahl- ing ceremony for the new building construction at the production Pedex into the Perlon Group, the worldwide leading manufacturer site in China took place in Haining City at the beginning of 2017 in of synthetic filaments, the company is consistently implementing the presence of the top management team of the Perlon Group. important measures for its internationalisation strategy: The sign- The Perlon Group is also expanding its production facility in the USA. The construction of a new 650m² warehouse for finished pro- ducts on the company site in Lexington will provide the company Vetron/Typical with the urgently required space in the production hall for synthe- tic filaments. The group of companies employs 3,000 people and Vetron Trace is a sensor based technology, giving full generates revenues of 500m. At the Techtextil trade fair Perlon control for the first time over an industrial sewing ma- will exhibit its three product ranges, Qualifil – monofilaments, Hahl chine without using a pedal. Trace tracks the natural working movements of the operator, anticipating the – synthetic brush filaments und abrasive filaments and Pedex – fil- operator’s intentions. aments for dental and personal hygiene applications. The focus [Texprocess | Hall 5.1 Booth B50] will be on the Antistat product, a polyester-based bicomponent

monofilament with carbon in the sheath. The low resistance of on- ly 104 Ohm/cm helps to dissipate static charge during industrial manufacturing processes. The Perlon Group will surprise its trade fair visitors with further innovative bicomponent solutions. [www.perlon.com] exhibition highlight [Techtextil | Hall 4.1 Booth C14]

FASCINATING NONWOVENS

Sandler AG • Telefon: +49 92 84/60-0 • Fax: +49 92 84/60-205 • E-Mail: [email protected] • www.sandler.de IVGT Association news IVGT Consistent growth in technical textiles

New study about technical textiles ket for technical textiles. The focal areas for product analysis were Industry consultants Gherzi, on the initiative of the European tex- yarns (filament and staple fibre yarns such as medical suture pro- tile association Euratex and commissioned by the European Com- ducts), woven textiles, warp and weft knitted fabrics (both as grey mission, have carried out a study on the international market for goods and with finishes), and non-wovens (geo-textiles, filtration technical textiles and the sales opportunities for European produ- and automotive acoustics). cers. The study was presented for the first time on 23 February According to the report, the market for technical textiles in these 2017 in Germany by Mr Hendrik H. van Delden, as part of a whole- product groups is worth a total of USD 147bn. Between 2010 and day event at the IVGT attended by Mr Klaus Huneke, President of 2014, the global market for technical textiles grew by more than Euratex, and Mr Lutz Walter, Director of the European Technology 6 percent a year, with above-average growth in the case of non- Platform (ETP). wovens. European turnover in technical textiles amounts to some The study provides suggestions to European textile producers as USD 30bn a year, of which 48 percent is accounted for by exports. to how they can gain better access to foreign markets, with stra- All of the markets examined offer substantial growth potential. tegic knowledge about the situation and product requirements in The study runs to 385 pages and contains more than 220 graphic those markets. The four countries concerned – the USA, Brazil, diagrams. Under EU regulations, the study is available exclusively South Korea and Japan – were selected as examples to illustrate to companies and organisations that are 100 percent European- regional factors such as high import duties, standards and so on. owned. The study provides an overview of the global and European mar- Strong increase in raw materials prices Since late 2016, the IVGT has been noting with concern the conti- IVGT events during the exhibition nuously increasing prices for materials used as inputs in the pro- 9 May: duction of polyester and polyamide 6.6. At the beginning of the • 3 hotspot tours: highlights of 6 textile producers in tours new year, though, a further dramatic price rise occurred in raw each lasting 60 minutes materials. 10 May: Behind the steady increase, in particular in the case of polyamide • student information event 6.6, lie price changes in the most important basic raw materials • IVGT and ETT Club press conference butadeine, cyclohexane and ammonium. The global market for • networking meeting for taping and braiding specialists butadeine in particular is currently in turmoil. Led by China, a ma- 11 May: jor consumer of this raw material, prices for butadeine are explo- • student information event ding and in February 2017 were already about 50% higher than • technical textiles market discussion the previous month. • meeting of members of the European Technical Textile This situation is affecting the entire textile chain and as a conse- Club quence, fibre manufacturers have now increased their own prices. 12 May: In addition, companies in the German textile industry are also • Press conference: High-Tex from Germany 2018 – being affected by rising energy costs. German manufacturers' exhibition [www.ivgt.de] [Techtextil | Hall 3.1 Booth F47]

28 textile network | 5-6/2017 trade fair special

High-performance, warp- knitted textiles maximise performance and comfort in the sports and athleisure Photo: Karl Mayer sectors

KARL MAYER Building together for the future

Karl Mayer Technische Textilien GmbH (Technical Textiles) can of- Stylish, functional stretch and non-stretch textiles are a speciality fer the RS MSUS-G weft-insertion warp knitting machine for pro- of Karl Mayer’s warp knitting machines. The company’s high- ducing the textiles that are used as an innovative way of reinforc- speed tricot machines, jacquard raschel machines and double-bar ing concrete. This high-speed raschel machine with weft insertion raschel machines can produce a variety of structured and open- in line with the stitch courses can produce heavy carbon-fibre work designs from a single source, and also work functional zones grids, which are used by members of Tudalit e.V. This association that can be integrated into a garment, such as a jersey. Zones are is responsible for the Tudalit trademark-protected brand for main- created, which provide a defined compression, breathability, taining quality standards in the production and use of textile-rein- warmth retention and freedom of movement. Karl Mayer’s dou- forced concrete. General Building Regulations Approval has al- ble-bar raschel machines in particular are also setting functional ready been applied for to cover certain concrete components con- trends when producing seamless items that are making quite a taining weft-inserted, warp-knitted textiles. fashion statement. [www.karlmayer.com] [Techtextil | Hall 3.0 Booth E18] SHIMA SEIKI MACH2XS123 15 L Whole The latest in Garment knitting machine Whole-Garment If you are looking knitting technology Shima Seiki will participate at for … Techtextil together with its Ital- ian subsidiary Shima Seiki Ita- lia. On display will be the company´s latest technological … innovation and quality combined with passion and contributions aimed at promot- Photo: Shima Seiki perfection, make sure to visit our booth. Innovative de- ing knitted applications in the field of technical textiles, designed velopments in the fields of hand ironing technology and and produced on Shima Seiki´s lineup of advanced computer de- steam generation as well as the shirt finisher, pressing sign systems and computerised flat knitting machines. Knitting of- machines and the new generation of Veit fusing machi- fers great potential for technical textiles with its inherent charac- nes will be in the focus. teristics; stretch and compression. WholeGarment knitting by Shi- [Veit GmbH] ma Seiki maximises the benefits of shaped knitting by expanding [Texprocess | Hall 6.0 Booth B10] that potential to 3 dimensions. The latest in WholeGarment knitting technology will be demon- strated at Techtextil by the flagship MACH2XS machine that fea- tures the company´s original SlideNeedle on 4 needle beds and USED MACHINERY FROM patented spring-loaded full-time sinker system. Capable of Who- leGarment knitting in all-needles, MACH2XS offers great flexibili- ty for knitting high-quality WholeGarment products with a seem- ingly endless variety of knit patterns at very high speeds and effi- ciency, all while minimising dependence upon labour-intensive Looking for used sewing and linking. WholeGarment knitting is capable of produc- ing knitted items in their entirety on the machine, and allows 3D Circular Knitting machines??? forms and tubing to be produced without sewing. The seam-free Please visit our website: nature of the process also ensures continuity of yarn, allowing www.sotex.de functional yarns such as conductive yarns to wrap around the en- tire body for applications in smart garments and wearable tech- nology. The latest version of Shima Seiki´s SDS-ONE APEX3 3D design sys- SOTEX-Textilmaschinen tem will also be available for demonstrations in design and simu- R. Sorhagen Egertstraße 54 · D-72768 Reutlingen lation of various technical textiles. Phone: +49 171 5155852 · Fax: +49 7121 621229 [www.shimaseiki.eu] E-Mail: [email protected] [Techtextil | Hall 6.1 Booth C52]

5-6/2017 | textile network 29 The delivery speed of 400 m/min is world trade fair special class in twisting in- dustrial yarns. The Techno-Corder TC2

Visit textile network and the VDMD at Techtextil/­ Texprocess in the Foyer of Hall 4.1 and enjoy our “Space in Living” in our Chill Lounge.

Photo: Saurer

ALLMA

High-quality premium yarns with even more flexibility Allma is delighted to welcome customers and visitors to inform them about the latest developments in twisting technology for in- exhibition highlight dustrial yarns. On the two-for-one twisting machine Techno-Cord- er TC2 for industrial yarns for example up to 9-ply yarn construc- tions can now be processed. The innovative Flexiply device allows GROZ-BECKERT for the production of innovative hybrid yarns. As a leading compa- Innovations of the product areas ny in twisting and cabling of industrial yarns and tire cord, Allma sets benchmarks in terms of flexibility, productivity and quality. A highlight of the weaving portfolio is the Posi-Leno leno sys- The Techno-Corder TC2 is characterised in particular by its unique tem, which boosts efficiency by up to 100 percent. With its flexibility in production, material and yarn counts of industrial product area Felting the company puts its contribution to the yarns. Self-sufficient spindle drives allow for such production flex- nonwovens industry on display. The service life and rust resist- ibility that individual items can be processed on each separate ance of felting and structuring needles have been, and are, im- spindle. With the innovative Flexiply software you can economi- portant issues in nonwoven manufacturing. Now, Groz-Beck- cally produce the hybrid yarn constructions expected by the mar- ert is presenting its latest innovation: Groz-Beckert dur. The ket on the Techno-Corder TC2. Through the use of different mate- patented manufacturing process of the needles in combination rials such as polyamide and aramid and different twists, yarns with a new base material improves resistance to corrosion with new characteristics are created for technical textiles, tires with up to 30 percent longer service life. For Spunlance cus- and mechanical rubber goods (MRG). tomers, Groz-Beckert is presenting its Hytec jet strips. As well [www.allma.saurer.com] as improved handling properties, the innovative jet strips also [Techtextil | Hall 3.0 Booth D02] feature significantly higher hardness, which has a positive ef- fect on all mechanical properties such as scratch resistance, bending strength and service life. Presenting the Quality Man- E-broidery illuminated agement INH (Ideal Needle Handling) at this year’s Techtextil, textiles experiment with the area of Sewing is waving the banner of process optimiza- light and shadow tion (read more on page 42). The patented process provides support in the handling of sewing machine needles during the entire sewing operation and has recently also been offering a digital solution to document needle breakage: the Smart INH. E-BROIDERY ELEMENTS

[www.groz-beckert.com] Light enchantment with textiles Photo: Forster Rohner [Techtextil | Hall 3.0 Booth F03] How about bathing a room in bright light or bringing it to life with the gentle gleam of changing lights? The high-quality, globally unique e-broidery illuminated textiles experiment with light and shadow, creating sunny days or starry nights. Small, lightweight electronic components, hidden in the seam, are the secret of this new product experience. Starting from a minimum length of one metre, e-broidery LED-textiles can be customised with respect to the lighting design, dimensions, making-up and power connection. These bespoke e-broidery curtains are produced in St.Gallen, Swit- zerland. The installation created by producer Forster Rohner Textile Photo: Groz Beckert Innovations promises to be an enchanting highlight of the fair. “The acrylic weaving machine“ by Groz-Beckert will provide insights into the opera- tion of heald frames, healds, warp stop motions and drop wires [www.e-broidery.ch] [Texprocess | Hall 6.1 Booth B09]

30 textile network | 5-6/2017 TEXPROCESS Digital textile printing a focal-point theme

Digital textile printing is one of the focal-point themes at this year’s Texprocess with the European Digital Textile Conference and Texprocess Forum. Moreover, the Digital Textile Microfac- tory in Hall 6.0 will present a textile production chain in action – from design, via digital printing and cutting, to making up. As well, numerous exhibitors, including Brother, Epson, Ergosoft and Mimaki, will be showing digital printing technologies. “We are expanding our programme on the subject of digital printing in response to the growing demand for digitalised technologies for processing garments, technical textiles and flexible materials. This programme is of particular interest to manufacturers of technical textiles and companies that process textiles”, says Michael Jänecke, Head of Brand Management, Textiles and Textile Technologies, Messe Frankfurt. Elgar Straub, Managing Director, VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies: “Thanks to digital textile printing, it is now possible to print apparel, shoes and technical textiles di- rectly. Given the general trend towards individualisation, de- mand for individualised products is increasing in the apparel industry. This is turning digital textile printing into one of the future-oriented technologies for companies that process gar- ments and textiles.” Originally developed for fashion fabrics, digital textile printing is also used for printing technical textiles, such as sports cloth- MSF 3 ATC Storage feeder: ing, and textiles for the automobile industry whereby the pri- mary focus is on functionalising textiles. For example, swim- high-dynamic wear can be made more colour fast to resist frequent contact with water and chlorine, and exposure to the sun. Also, textiles Active Tension Control can be finished by applying chemicals via an inkjet printer and thus be given dirt-repellent, antimicrobial and fire-retardant properties. Additionally, using an inkjet printer in the finishing The MSF 3 ATC storage feeder based on the process is advantageous in terms of sustainability and efficien- MSF 3 CAN with 57V DC is fitted with the Active cy. Texprocess is being held concurrently with Techtextil. Tension Control (ATC) sensor for controlling yarn [www.texprocess.de] tension. Used together with the GTN controller unit it enables central setting of the yarn tension Digital printing offers many on single units, groups of units or on all the units chances together. Your advantages: The control system ensures that the yarn tension at the yarn outlet of the MSF 3 ATC is not influenced by exter- nal factors such as the bobbin size or the yarn quality and maintains the preset values at all

Photo: Messe Frankfurt times. Ask about Are you looking the MSF 3 ATC. for …

ADVANCED KNITTING TECHNOLOGY ... high-quality pressing technology for outerwear, MEMMINGER-IRO GMBH Jakob-Mutz-Str. 7 | 72280 Dornstetten-Germany you should definitely visit our booth. Tel. +49 7443 281-0 | Fax +49 7443 281-101 [Hornung GmbH Indupress & Co. KG] www.memminger-iro.de [Texprocess | Hall 6.0 Booth B22]

5-6/2017 | textile network 31 trade fair special Photo: Mimaki Photo:

One printer, two types of ink: The novel so- MIMAKI lution by Mimaki provides quick and effi- cient printing on synthetic (e.g. polyester) Printing made even more flexible or vegetable (cotton, linen) textile fibres for the price of an entry level solution Mimaki is expanding its range of direct-to-textile printers (Tx300P-1800 and TX1800B) to include a model capable of using both textile pigment and sublimation ink at the same time. Thus, one single printing system makes it possible to print directly onto a wide variety of textiles without having to switch ink systems. GUNOLD With this novel and unique technology Mimaki has achieved a „Cry“ – Crying with happiness breakthrough in textile printing, increasing productivity and ver- satility. At this year´s Texprocess, Gunold’s booth will sparkle and glit- “The textile and garment industry faces the challenge of providing ter! In time for this year´s 90th anniversary, the renowned short delivery times and customised products in small production company from Stockstadt has added a real thread innovation lots. In response, we have developed this new printing system – Cry – to its extensive range of threads. The special feature helping manufacturers to efficiently produce textiles and patterns of this thread innovation is retro-reflection caused by thou- in small quantities.” Ronald van den Broek, General Manager sands of microscopically small glass beads. Glass beads and Sales at Mimaki Europe elaborates: “This means that, now, print thread? Until recently this combination seemed technically service providers can quickly and easily switch between fabrics unthinkable and indeed the realization is truly a masterpiece! and select the corresponding ink system. Additionally, since these Marketing Manager Stephan Gunold is particularly enthusias- inks do not require finishing processes like washing or steaming, tic about the latest product of the company's extensive range they are much more eco-friendly.” of threads: “We are absolutely convinced of Cry. It is extreme- Mimaki offers five different types of ink for textile printing: subli- ly innovative and allows for completely new optics on textiles, mation, dispersion, textile pigment, reactive and acid inks. Con- offering exactly what companies are currently looking for ventionally, each type of ink requires a different printer. With Mi- most A novelty that combines function and design.” maki’s new development, however, textile producers are able to [www.gunold.de] use the two most common inks in one and the same printing sys- [Texprocess | Hall 6.0 Booth B59] tem. The textile printers Tx300P-1800 and Tx300P-1800B are de- signed to simultaneously print with textile pigment ink TP400 (for cotton and hemp fibres) as well as sublimation ink Sb420 (for pol- yester). As both types of ink do not require washing or steaming, this process also eliminates the need for large spaces, high vol- umes of water and highly specialised operating staff. The only set- up necessary are the printer itself and a work station for fixing the Photos: Gunold inks.

[www.mimakieurope.de] Appliqués, decorative seams or embroidery designs created with Cry result in fasci- [Texprocess | Hall 6.0 Booth B57] nating sparkling effects and trade show visitors will be truly amazed!

AMANN GROUP Specialist threads and yarns

Amann is poised to present not only its wide range of special threads dery. In the field of workwear, this thread could, for example, be and yarns, but also a variety of different applications and projects used on protective LED jackets. All of Amann’s water-resistant fin- from various sectors. Sabaflex, a multi-talented product for all ishes are now available in PFC-free variations which are kinder to stretch materials, is ideal for achieving extremely stretchy seams. the environment. At Techtextil, Amann will be presenting its newly This sewing thread gives seams that little bit of extra stretch whilst established Amann Innovation Lab or ”textile think-tank”. minimising the risk of breakages even when exposed to ex- [www.amann.com] treme loads. Be it on footwear or leather, Serafil and [Techtextil | Hall 4.1 Booth B72] Serabraid are perfect for decorative seams. Silver- [Texprocess | Hall 5.0 Booth B51] tech, the conductive speciality sewing and embroidery thread with a silver Ever true to its “thinking solutions” claim, coating, has been developed by Amann the Amann Innovation Lab develops solu- specifically for light-emitting embroi- tions for tomorrow’s market needs

Photo: Amann 32 textile network | 5-6/2017 cutters, canprocesstheorderwith asimplebarcodescan. spreader XLsseriesandGerberParagonlineofmulti-ply - passed tothecutroom,wheresmartmachines,likeGerber - chitecture usescommonfilestructures,datacaneasily be tions in various languages. Since Gerber’s Digital Solutions ar- planning softwareAccu-Planwillbeavailablefordemonstra - grading andmarkermakingsolution.Moreover,theproduction the 2Dand3DdevelopmentsforAccu-Markpatterndesign, Yunique PLMproductlifecyclemanagementsoftware,aswell as case itsDigitalSolutionsincludingthenewestreleasesof tory and returns issues. At Texprocess 2017, Gerber will show- faster “fastfashion”cycle,andtheneedtosolvemassiveinven - says theshiftisdrivenbyamoretech-savvycustomerbase, mation. MikeElia,PresidentandCEOofGerberTechnology, start-up labels–istalkingabouttheindustry’sdigitaltransfor- Frankfurt. Everyone in the industry – from major players to small showcasing itsdigitalsolutionsin Reality”, GerberTechnologyis visitors to“EmbraceYourDigital Based onitsthemeencouraging Reality” “Embrace YourDigital GERBER TECHNOLOGY dependence uponlabour-intensivesewingandlinking. at veryhighspeedsandefficiency,allwhileminimising ducts withaseeminglyendlessvarietyofknitpatterns xibility forknittinghigh-qualityWhole-Garmentpro- ment knittinginall-needles,MACH2XSoffersgreatfle- loaded full-timesinkersystem.CapableofWhole-Gar- nal Slide-Needleon4needlebedsandpatentedspring- MACH2XS machinethatfeaturesthecompany´sorigi- Techtextil willbedemonstratedbytheflagship The latestinWhole-Garmentknittingtechnologyat Shima Seiki

exhibition highlight and apparel.Thepictureintroduces Enabled bydigitization:3Dproduct development technologytoexperi- ence it‘sbreakthroughforfashion a fewofmanyGerberavatars [Techtextil |Hall6.1BoothD51] [Texprocess |Hall4.0BoothB31]

[www.gerbertechnology.com]

9158 TextileNetwork"Steel Workers"EnglishHalfPage102x297.indd 1

Photo: Gerber Technology right there withus.Now, what shouldwebuildnext? on earth.We wanttothankallof youwho’vebeenworking up towhatever gotdishedout, in thetoughestenvironments creating fabricsthat peoplecouldrely on.That couldstand CORDURA Visit us to find out more about the next generation of durable INVISTA STAND 4.1 G25 TECHTEXTIL, GERMANY, 9-12MAY 2017, For 50years,theCORDURA reputation together. We’ve built quite a ® fabrics. ® brand has dedicated itself to brandhasdedicated itselfto cordura.com/50years 04/04/2017 15:00

©2017 INVISTA. CORDURA ® is a registered trademark of INVISTA for durable fabrics. The cradle feeder, perfect solution for unwinding/rewinding stretchy fabrics If you are looking completely without tension for … Photo: Zünd Systemtechnik Photo: Zünd Systemtechnik

.. embroidery machines, remember to visit Mountek and Tajima’s stand. Here, you will find the entire range of Ta- ZÜND SYSTEMTECHNIK jima embroidery machines, including the young TMAR model and the brand-new TMBU model. This year, Tajima Digitizing is main focus is shining the spotlight on special embroidery processes Zünd is presenting cutting solutions that allow for seamless inte- and accessories. The company is featuring a leather em- gration in digital workflows. Zünd cutters are extremely flexible broidery machine developed in cooperation with the Ita- and designed to make cutting of textile materials efficient and lian Studio Auriga and Tajima Japan. Moreover, a laser economical. They give customers opportunities to create new busi- bridge from Seit Elettronica, Italy, will be installed over ness models through innovative digital cutting applications. Zünd several embroidery machines and shown in action. This has always put a great deal of emphasis on producing cutting and system makes it possible to carry out cutting and engra- software solutions that are completely modular. Zünd's user inter- ving operations in and on textiles directly on the embro- idery machines. In addition, Filacon Systems, Mountek’s face and workflow suite, Zünd Cut Center ZCC, is compatible with special machinery division, is showing the laying of car- all commonly used RIPs. To make the cutting process as simple and bon fibre rovings, the processing of heating wires as efficient as possible, a camera-based registration system, in com- well as a machine with a special device for placing and bination with ZCC, takes care of matching cut to print. Ensuring fixing electrical components on textiles. The Edopath fib- accurate registration even with highly stretchy fabrics, the system re laying software and the new Wirepath wire laying can be made to capture parts of the print instead of using tradi- software will also be unveiled. tional registration marks. Zünd digital cutting systems are highly [www.mountek.de] modular. At Texprocess a Zünd S3 system illustrates how this mod- [Texprocess | Hall 6.0 Booth B11] ularity benefits the user. [Techtextil | Hall 3.0 Booth J12] [www.zund.com] [Texprocess | Hall 4.0 Booth 40]

GERTSCH CONSULTING & MODE VISION KURIS SPEZIALMASCHINEN Personalized Clothing & Industry 4.0 New Generation of Texcut Fully automated processes are Kuris Spezialmaschinen GmbH, developer and manufacturer of needed in order to to make one- innovative spreading and cutting technology, offers one of the piece production batches quickly, broadest product programs within the industry. In the last few reliably and on-demand – par- years, further solutions for different processes were requested ticularly when it comes to provid- in the course of automation and diversification. These include ing personalized, made-to-meas- optical pattern recognition, fully automated labeling before cut- ure clothing. Gertsch Consulting ting until a new cutting process into the product portfolio – the & Mode Vision, based in Switzer- ultrasonic cutting. land, works actively in this field Highlights at Texprocess are the new generation of the Texcut, and will be presenting some in- as well as the corresponding fully automatic labeling unit as a teresting innovations for its plat- useful addition for a highly efficient spreading and cutting Photo: Gertsch Consulting & Mode Vision form “Pod – Pattern on Demand“ process. Innovations for the Plattform ”Pod – at Texprocess 2017. Pattern on Demand” [www.kuris.de] Now customers can access a [Texprocess | Hall 4.0 Booth E81] newly developed application programming interface (API) for in- tegrating the “Pod configurator“ into their own web shops (e.g. Magento). The customer can in turn act as a co-designer and use this configurator to build their article of clothing. The primary ad- vantage here is that as soon as an order is placed into the shop- ping cart in the online store, it also ends up in the “Pod – Pattern on Demand“ system. No manual item comparison needs to be made on two different systems, since the web shop can obtain all of the data from the “Pod“ system. [www.gertsch.ch] Texcut [Techtextil | Hall 4.0 Booth D06]

34 textile network | 5-6/2017

Photo: Kuris Spezialmaschinen trade fair special

HUMAN SOLUTIONS Digital transformation at its best

Pull on a pair of goggles and view the current collection in a vir- and visualization in 3D with in-formation that comes straight from tual room together with partners from all around the world, then the PLM system. The correct prototype can be found faster and im- make your decisions. Does this sound like science fiction? portant decisions can be made on the digital model, even before a The Human Solutions Group will show that this and much more is piece is sewn. possible. Two special highlights that revolutionize the develop- The Digital Showroom, in which people in different locations can ment of apparel will be showcased at the booth: the Digital Fash- plan, view and revise the next collection. “Many companies in the ionboard and the Digital Showroom. The Digital Fashionboard re- apparel industry are currently focusing on digitization; but at places the analog Moodboard. It networks product development which point in product development does it makes sense to start working digitally? And when digitization has been introduced, what’s the next step? We’ll be answering these questions at the Texprocess,” says Dr. Andreas Seidl, CEO of the Human Solutions Group. [www.human-solutions.com] [Texprocess | Hall 4.0 Booth C21]

Photo: Human Solutions Digital-Moodboard Human Solutions

JUKI DDL-9000C – Digitalisation of the sewing process

Digitalisation of key parameters means factories no longer needs Technical Textiles to invest time and effort in manually adjusting a machine line. The Inspired by Innovation DDL-9000C can be adjusted once and the key settings copied across a line via the Juki Android App. The numerical entry of pa- rameters means that exact values can be set and replicated on other machines ensure consistency that is not achievable with manual adjustments. Parameters that can be digitally set include the feed dog height, thread tension and many more. [www.jukieurope.com] [Texprocess | Halle 5.0 Booth C90]

A highlight at Texprocess: Juki DDL-9000C

www.iprotex.com iprotex® GmbH & Co. KG / Kirchenlamitzer Straße 115 / D-95213 Münchberg Photo: Juki

5-6/2017 | textile network 35 ”With the support of its new software, Intex promises that the goods are always available at the right place” Photo: iStock

INTEX Brand new ERP and PLM Software

Online trading has been recording inexorable and tremendous standard processes. The customer can also select add-on modules growth. This, however, without the disappearance of other chan- from the IX Fusion Plus range and book them, too. The range ex- nels such as stationary trading, mail order or home-shopping. To tends from PLM and SCM applications through modules which always reach and win the customer over at all times, fashion sell- can manage production, sales or storage to features for web or- ers must above all understand how omni-channelling works. This ders and CRM. The range under the IX Fusion App label also in- means optimally distributing the goods on all sales channels, ad- cludes numerous modules as mobile apps. The customer can justing them to daily requirements and linking the channels to- choose to either purchase software licences or to settle for the IX gether. Fusion Cloud, thus spreading its investment over a longer period To meet these demands as well as the constant market changes of time. If desired, a separate Intex unit offers IX Fusion Services caused by digitalisation, globalisation and verticalisation, the and provides Intex customers with the IT infrastructure required. fashion industry must have control over its business processes. To But it doesn’t end there. The software has so-called cockpits which do this, it is imperative to use smart software applications. Intex, ensure that the user only sees its own relevant data and is given an ERP and PLM provider, recognised these very challenges at an advance warning on critical processes. This enables the highest early stage and is now introducing its completely newly developed level of management by exception. web application IX Fusion just in time for the Texprocess trade fair. According to a statement by Intex, for the first time ever a fully in- IX Fusion creates transparency, accelerates supply chains and per- tegrated system is available to the fashion industry which illus- fectly distributes the goods over the various sales channels. trates the entire value-added chain and which can be managed In addition to the high-end solution IX Fusion Pro, which is pre- without almost any interfaces to third-party systems. cisely customised to the customer’s requirements, there is also [www.intex.de] now the sleeker version IX Fusion Lite which particularly illustrates [Texprocess | Hall 4.0 Booth E42]

HORNUNG INDUPRESS A new height-adjustment for shoulder pads

Hornung Indupress offers high-quality pressing technology for outerwear and has now a new generation of touchscreen micro- processor machine control and a new height-adjustment for Juki shoulder pads: electropneumatic angular adjustment of the lower Digitalisation of key parameters means factories no shape for modification to different shoulder pad sizes (in 9 steps longer need to invest time and effort in manually ad- each 2 mm) to be selected on the Touchscreen. justing a machine line. The DDL-9000C can be adjus- [www.indupress.de] ted once and the key settings copied across a line via [Texprocess | Hall 6.0 Booth B22] the Juki Android App. The numerical entry of parame- ters means that exact values can be set and replica- ted on other machines, ensuring consistency that is not achievable with manual adjustments. Parameters that can be digitally set include the feed dog height, thread tension and many more.

[Texprocess I Hall 5.0 Booth C90]

New height-adjustment exhibition highlight for shoulder pads Photo: Hornung GmbH Indupress & Co. KG

36 textile network | 5-6/2017 If you are looking trade fair special

for …

With the Pfaff 3819 “curved” sewing of programmed straight ... from the heart valve to the tailgate? The scientific emplo- and curved segments is possible yees of ITA Institut für Textiltechnik develop light and high- with just one machine for the strength materials, machines and processes which assist first time you in reducing your costs, devising new products and in- creasing your productivity. The ITA GmbH supports the im- plementation from research into practical application. [ITA GmbH | Elmatex] [Techtextil | Hall 3.0 Booth D05]

PFAFF

Absolute innovation in sewing curved jeans waistbands Photo: Pfaff

The workstation Pfaff 3819 is a new sewing solution for the With the Pfaff 3819 “curved” sewing of programmed straight highest demands and standards. The machine, working with and curved segments is possible with just one machine for the “material from the reel” delivers maximum productivity while first time. maintaining consistent seam quality. An innovative puller system combined with intelligent software The entire sewing and cutting cycle may be programmed: pro- is the core of this new development. Different seam sections trusion of the waistband, skipped stitches, start and stop of the are available upon demand via a knee switch (curved and waistband. The special “curved version” of the Pfaff 3819 which straight). The Pfaff 3819 enables the user to attach a perfectly is designed for processing fashionable ladies’ jeans is a world curved waistband in one operation using one machine. This ma- first. The challenge in these jeans is attaching a curved waist- chine will be shown for the first time at the Texprocess exhibi- band in a neat manner. In this area, the waistband is divided in- tion to different curved and straight segments to optimally fit a [www.pfaff-industrial.de] woman’s anatomy. [Techtextil | Hall 5.1 Booth B80]

Die CMS 330 HP W

PASSION FOR Photo: Stoll FASHION powered by Hellmann Worldwide Logistics

We are your partner for the global STOLL fashion business along the entire sup- Modern flat knitting technologies ply chain and for all sales channels. E-Mail: [email protected] Stoll will be showcasing a large variety of flat knit application www.hellmann.com examples at the Techtextil show. The new cluster concept for TT sport, TT med, TT home and TT mobility will be unveiled, along with the new CMS 330 HP W flat knitting machine for TT sport, which is suitable for the manufacture of shoe uppers, orthetic supports, and textile accessories with complex shapes. The compact model also boasts a high production speed, exceptional value for money, and options for inlay techniques, intarsia patterns, and plating effects. [www.stoll.com] [Techtextil | Halle 3.0 Booth F39]

5-6/2017 | textile network 37 Vetronnet

XI'AN TYPICAL EUROPE Innovative sewing and welding technology

Vetron/Typical will show two main highlights: These are the “Ve- tronnet”, a cloud management software for the control and optimi- sation of sewing processes, and Vetron Trace. CEO Holger Labes: “This year, we’re appearing with our joint brand Vetron/Typical for

the first time as we wish to demonstrate our close collaboration Photo: Xi'an Typical Europe with our Chinese parent, whilst enhancing the quality of the prod- ucts sold under the Typical brand through the input of our German terms of ergonomics and safety. As a control device outside the op- engineers and technicians.” Vetron Trace is a sensor-based technol- erator’s field of view, the pedal has the potential risk of unintended ogy which, for the first time, gives full control of an industrial sew- machine run. In future, gesture control has room to develop further ing machine without using a pedal. Trace tracks the natural working safety functions such as stopping the machine when the operator’s movements of the operator anticipating their intention. Sensors an- hand is too close to the needle area. Especially in terms of ergo- alyse the movement of the hands in 3 dimensions, sending the in- nomics, this innovative technology has strong advantages over a formation in real time to the machine. The sensors measure, among pedal. It is particularly beneficial for standing operations. others, the forward motion of the hands, regulating the speed of the [www.typical-europe.com] machine accordingly. Special functions are triggered by customisa- [www.vetron-europe.com] ble gestures. Removing the pedal results in huge improvements in [Texprocess | Hall 5.1 Booth B50 and B54]

Hornung Indupress The provider of high-quality pressing technology for ou- terwear is presenting a new generation of touchscreen microprocessor machine control solutions for Industry 4.0 (integrated into the microprocessor control) and a new height-adjustment for shoulder pads: electro-pneu- matic angular adjustment of the lower shape for modi-

Photo: Efka fication to different shoulder pad sizes (in 9 steps, each Efka – the most powerful sewing machine motor ever 2 mm) to be selected on the touchscreen. [Texprocess | Hall 6.0 Booth B22] EFKA – FRANKL & KIRCHNER

A fancy app with real added value

At the last Texprocess Efka introduced the fundament for the fu- ture with the new 6xx Series controls and new programming pan- exhibition highlight els with communication via smartphone or tablet app. And this is only the beginning. That is why the first highlight is the new Efka M-Type Premium app which redefines the term ‘user friendly’. Functions such as sewing machine changing parameters and sending those back and forth between controller and smartphone via NFC were already available. The re- mote maintenance application has been extended in accordance with Industry 4.0 so our technicians can now connect to the con- trol via Bluetooth and the app. Problems can be analyzed more easily and quickly in real-time and are directly addressed by bi-di- rectional communication. Other functions such as video training or DÜRKOPP ADLER Photo: Dürkopp Adler signal tests are planned and the functionality of the app will be Sewing production in the digital age steadily expanded going forward. Best of all, using the Efka app is free and available for all our customers. The second highlight at The “Industry 4.0“ pioneer presents a special highlight, a sys- this year’s show is the introduction of our most powerful motor yet tem for optimising sewing production based on an extremely produced – the new DC1280. With 16 Nm of torque at 2,000 RPM, large digital machinery network. It also incorporates a further this motor is designed for the most demanding applications and is development of the programmable M-Type Premium sewing compatible with all the AB6xx controls like our other motors. machine for moderately heavy materials, with which complete Efka’s unique Direct Drive technology is another show highlight networks can easily be created. In the field of automated gar- with a growing number of head mount brackets increasingly being ment production, a completely new generation of sewing sys- used. In addition is the new development for fully retractable sew- tems will be unveiled for piped pockets. The company also has ing machines. a real experience in store for trade buyers. [www.efka.net] [www.duerkopp-adler.com] [Texprocess | Hall 5.1 Booth B71] [Texprocess | Hall 5.1 Booth B90]

38 textile network | 5-6/2017 trade fair special

CORDURA BRAND AND DUPONT TATE & LYLE BIO PRODUCTS Dilo Compact Line for Shape the future of sustainable textiles Needling Carbon Fibres

Invista’s Cordura brand and Dupont Tate & Lyle Bio Products an- nounce a collaboration to deliver a new chapter in innovative sus- tainable textile solutions for performance fabrics. Now, designers of apparel, footwear and gear will have access to leading durable performance fabrics that incorporate sustainable materials. Cindy McNaull, global Cordura brand and marketing director: “At the core of our brand’s DNA is a dedication to delivering durable next generation fabric technologies. Products made with Cordura fabrics are long-lasting, which means they need to be replaced

less often, helping reduce waste. We constantly look at ways to Dilo Photo: increase the utility and durability of our products and ways we can benefit the DILO GROUP environment. Ultimately, our belief All about staple fibre nonwoven is that ‘Sustainability Begins With Products That Last’, and this production lines forms the perfect backdrop for Dilo machines may be used for the production of nonwovens our collaboration with DuPont used in automotives, as floor coverings, synthetic leather, geotex- Tate & Lyle Bio Products.” tiles and for filtration, just to name the most important fields of Dupont Tate & Lyle’s Susterra application. An example of an innovation is the “Vector 200”, a propanediol durable coatings new crosslapper by Dilo Machines which is unique with an in- and waterproof, breathable feed speed of more than 200 m/min. Considerable progress has membranes are manufactured been achieved in the processability of special fibres like carbon

Photo: Invista through a proprietary fermentation using recycled fibres to make composite materials. Compact process using plant-derived glucose. In special lines for product research and development with recy- Sustainability Begins With Prod- addition to being renewably sourced, cled carbon fibres are available and can be discussed with inter- ucts That Last Susterra is manufactured using a sus- ested visitors. A close cooperation with needle manufacturer Groz- tainable process that produces 50 per- Beckert has advanced the development of the needle module cent less greenhouse gas emissions and consumes 42 percent less technique and the intense needling of light weight nonwovens. non-renewable energy than equivalent petroleum-based diols. At Ample information will be available at the booth. Furthermore, the manufacturing facility’s full capacity, that is equivalent to tak- Dilo Group will inform about universal needling technology and ing 40,000 passenger cars off the road and turning off one million carding systems of wide working width and high web speed for 100W incandescent lightbulbs for one full year. water entanglement lines. For this important, special branch of [www.invista.com] nonwoven production normal lines have a working width of about [Techtextil | Hall 4.1 Booth G25] 3.8 m and medium web speeds of around 200 m/min, Dilo Group’s portfolio includes carding systems of wider working width and higher web speeds. Dilo Temafa offers in close cooperation with Dilo Spinnbau these special carding systems with working widths exceeding 5 m and resultant web speeds of more than 400 m/min If you've ever asked after water entanglement and drying. [www.dilo.de] yourself … [Techtextil | Hall 3.0 Booth H31] Photo: Dürkopp Adler

Advertisement …how disruptive a new technology will be for my company – after all, sound bites such as these always make the headlines – you should speak to the experts at Gerber Technology’s stand, attend the presentations at the Texpro- cess Forum, read the textile network/VDMD interview series and visit the iaf Symposium to gain plenty of inspiration and positive insights into new opportunities, consultation options and the implementation of innovative ideas – also for SMEs. [Gerber Technology] [Texprocess | Hall 4.0 Booth B31] www.adf3.stoll.com

5-6/2017 | textile network 39 textile technology

Leister Technologies AG Laser welding – a brand new technoloy Hot air and ultrasound welding are joining methods that have been known for decades. Laser welding on the other hand is a brand new technology that is not yet being used for industrial manufacturing in the field of apparel production.

Leister produces plastic welding The benefits invisible spectral range are relevant. equipment and laser systems, and The benefits of laser-welded textiles Both an IR-absorbing and a non-IR- has extensive experience with the are readily apparent. There is no da- absorbing textile material are nee- welding of thermoplastic synthetic mage whatsoever to the exterior of ded to create seams of high quality. materials. The Swiss company has the textile material, creating a seam- Working with 2 non-IR-absorbing been researching laser technology less effect. Laser-welded seams are fabrics is possible as well. However, for many years, and has now deve- extremely flat, elastic, and skin- an IR absorber applied either by me- loped a textile laser welding machi- friendly. Since laser welding does ans of ink jet printing or manually is ne that works similar to a normal se- not require adhesives of any kind, it in part required in this case. wing machine. This high-end piece is also especially environmentally Furthermore, the two thermoplastic of equipment is currently being used friendly due to the recycling process. materials being welded have to be for the production of apparel proto- But how does laser welding work the same. This means PET only joins types. More than 40 specialists work exactly? Leister works with IR laser reliably with PET, PP only with PP, on developing the technologies of systems. Here the optical characte- and so on. Leister has done well with the future. ristics of the textile material in the PA6. Numerous tests have also been successfully conducted with PA66. Laser welding principle However, blends such as 80 percent PES and 20 percent EL are possible as well. What can be welded to- gether well or not depends mainly on the underlying laws of physics. Out-of-the-box thinking is essential for using this innovative technology. Companies with a pioneering spirit have a unique opportunity to deve- lop their own know-how in this field. Frederike Lehmeier, develop- ment engineer at Leister Technical Textiles & Industrial Fabrics: “We have done a lot of research in order to get where we are today. Our ex- perience with laser plastic welding accumulated over many years was advantageous. We already knew how to create firm connections with the help of lasers. However, numerous other strict requirements

Photos: Leister have to be met for textiles.”

40 textile network | 5-6/2017 one has to mentally laser-weld the portant in the future. In this market article of clothing once in the plan- segment in particular, a secure con- ning phase in order to see whether nection is becoming more important this is possible. The manufacturing than ever before for the production process therefore begins with the of hybrids, for example when sen- careful selection of materials, which sors or other technical components is a challenging process that requi- have to be integrated into clothing. res extensive knowledge. Frederike Lehmeier, [www.leister.com] development engineer, Shoe with multifunction But this is not a disadvantage. Once [Techtextil | Hall 3.0 Booth H03 Leister Technologies seams a suitable combination of materials AG [Nancy Renning] is found, the manufacturer is able to successfully fill a niche. Laser wel- ding may first create the impression of stumbling over restrictions. Fre- About Leister Group derike Lehmeier: “I can imagine that · Corporate structure with holding company and laser welding may be substituted for 11 subsidiaries High demands gluing applications and take over · More than 60 years of experience: Develop- These depend on the concrete appli- aspects of classic sewing. However, ment, Fabrication, Worldwide sales and marke- cation. In the clothing industry for I do not expect an established tech- ting for technical products example, this means the product nique to be simply replaced by laser · Strong competence in technique and applica- has to be washable and very com- welding. This innovative technique tion fortable to wear. Since the textile is is a supplement for the textile indus- · Innovative company culture flexible in comparison to plastic, the try. It opens up entirely new possibi- · Niche market player textile itself is a challenge, too. Fre- lities for designers that could not be · Worldwide market leader of plastic welding derike Lehmeier sees great potential implemented in that form before. equipment in the sports technology field: These have to be identified, and we · 670 employees in eight countries “Sportswear in direct contact with support companies along the way · 98 percent export the skin is exposed to stresses and with our knowledge.” · Market presence in 125 countries perspiration. Other focal points may The company’s target group could include breathability, skin friendli- be athletes who put a premium on ness and the feel in general.” comfort and performance, but also Aesthetics also have to be conside- other customers who want to enjoy red. The article of clothing should ultimate wearer comfort thanks to not only be functional but look good the smooth, soft laser seams. Un- as well. Here the color and structure dergarments such as bras or bustiers also play a role. In selecting the ma- are made even more comfortable terials, the designer has to remem- with laser welding. ber that the weldability of the mate- The possibilities are varied. Next to rials being joined is a prerequisite the classic clothing industry, the for the laser technology. This means field of wearables may also be im- Our software solution „pod - Pattern on Demand®“ supports manufacturers and suppliers of individualized measurement clothing with fully automatic processes from the web-shop to the finished cutting pattern.

Benefits: - Fast, cost-effective and reliable processing of customized orders - Easy and safe operation - NEW: Integrate our configurator via API into your existing web-shop

Gertsch Consulting & Mode Vision Laser welded seam Skin-friendly compression and comfort Tel: +41 62 751 26 01 - [email protected] - textilnet.ch

5-6/2017 | textile network 41 textile technology

Groz-Beckert INH Quality Management Needle breakages are part and parcel of garment production. When a needle breaks, finding every fragment is a priority in ensuring that there are no potential risks for customers claiming damages. This is where Groz- Beckert’s INH quality management provides a novel solution. INH – Ideal Needle Handling – is designed to support companies in their sewing processes and the handling of sewing machine needles.

INH management helps clients the risk of losing broken needle meet different brand requirements fragments while moving them to the through a standardised process, dispensing counter. while simultaneously improving en- The needle dispending trolley inclu- vironmental standards, boosting des any tools needed for replacing productivity and complying with and collecting sewing machine other guidelines. Thus, the system needles. New needles are kept rea- creates a streamlined process for dy to be exchanged directly on the handling needles, from receiving machine and used needles are coll- needle shipments to documenting ected in a box for recycling. Broken breakages and disposing of them for needles are immediately attached to recycling. storage sheets with adhesive tape The first step to implementing INH is and stored in hanging folders on the a thorough analysis of the current trolley (basic model). procedures for handling sewing ma- Photo: Groz-Beckert Additionally, the needle dispending chine needles. Based on the results trolley features an emergency kit in- and taking into account customer fectively minimised or eliminated Needle dispensing cluding a second set of basic tools specifications, the INH system is entirely. The system ensures that trolley for simultaneously exchanging ano- then customised following three needles leave the sewing factory in ther needle, if needed. steps of implementation. a recyclable condition and in their Finally, the needle return box is for INH Secure: Understanding existing original packaging. Additionally, re- collecting and returning broken and procedures and integrating them in- gulations regarding the handling of damaged sewing machine needles. to INH. broken needles and ergonomically A scale indicating the length of the INH Balance: Adding INH elements designed equipment strengthen oc- needle helps to determine whether to existing procedures to create a cupational health and safety proce- comprehensive INH process. dures, protecting seamsters and Broken needle fragments remaining in clothing INH Environment: Analysing and in- other staff dealing with sewing ma- items could pose a risk for end customers and po- tegrating connected processes into chine needles. tentially lead to legal action. Thus, in order to eli- INH. minate any grounds for claims, brand owners and Therefore, the individually adapted Tools clothing manufacturers require sewing factories INH quality management system is At the core of INH quality manage- to keep a detailed record of every single case of able to close any gaps between the ment is the needle dispensing (INH) needle breakage and to store all fragments for a existing production process and ap- trolley. It is specifically designed for certain period of time. However, relevant procedu- plicable standards and is continually the process and optimally configu- res are often not properly defined or factories re- reviewed and revised to that end. red to substitute the entire original ceive different instructions from different brands, INH not only provides smooth and dispensing station, moving the making it difficult for sewing companies and ope- time-effective needle handling. It needle dispending trolley towards rators to integrate the correct handling of needles improves time and labour efficiency, the sewing machine instead of the into their processes. INH quality management by thus significantly reducing idle times machine towards the trolley. Bey- Groz-Beckert provides the solution. and increasing output. Waste is ef- ond saving time, this process limits

42 textile network | 5-6/2017 all of its broken fragments have be- providing thorough documentation. en found. A needle log is provided On that note…. The application’s secure operating for the documentation of any rele- In early 2017, Groz-Beckert took over the Aachen- system can only be accessed by au- vant data. based Ferd. Schmetz Group. Schmetz is a long- thorised personnel as determined by established German producer of industrial sewing the browser software. INH quality Smart INH machine needles with around 700 employees management also encourages sew- In addition to the basic needle dis- worldwide. The acquisition includes the produc- ing staff to work autonomously and pensing unit Groz-Beckert offers a tion sites in Germany, Switzerland and India as handle sewing machine needles res- smart version of its trolley. The idea well as Schmetz’s global distribution network. ponsibly. The INH@site app and the is to reduce time as well as the INH@office browser software form space required for documenting and the digital heart of Smart INH. Groz- storing broken needles in folders, ser software using the QR code on Beckert ensures that an up-to- while simultaneously providing an the needle log in the return box. date version is available at all immediate and environmentally Subsequently, the data set is digi- times, including regular up- friendly disposal by taking pictures tally stored and can be ac- dates and improvements. of damaged and broken needles, cessed, viewed and managed and filing them digitally. The stan- worldwide using the INH@of- About Groz-Beckert dard work station is equipped with fice software. Other features 150 countries – one a tablet holder and two software include a dashboard provi- textile world! components: the mobile app INH@ ding a real-time system over- Groz-Beckert is the site installed on the tablet as well as view. Further, authorised per- Groz-Beckert Photo: world’s leading provider the browser software INH@office. sons can carry out online audits of industrial machine needles,

Broken or replaced needles are pho- and various analyses at any time. The Needle return box precision parts and fine tools, as tographed with the app, which gui- software also serves to maintain and well as systems and services for the des the user step by step manage other information communi- production and joining of textile fa- through an intuitive inter- cated via the app, such as related to brics. All around the world, the pro- face documenting rele- machinery and needle types. Thus, all ducts and services support the texti- vant information. Thus, sewing operations can be organised le processes of knitting and warp required data such as lo- and controlled with INH@office. knitting, weaving, felting, tufting, cation and time, produc- carding and sewing. tion order, line and ma- Thorough and comprehensive The company, founded in 1852, em- chine number or operator documentation ploys around 7,700 people and tur- can be directly attached Smart INH not only records needle ned over about 665million euro in to the matching photo- breakages, but all needle exchan- 2016. All of the threads come to- graphs. The data can then ges, effectively eliminating any pos- gether at the headquarters in Alb- be retrieved with the brow- sibility of deliberate damage and stadt, Germany. The family-owned Before now, the company also disposes of other pro- search for broken duction sites in Germany, Belgium, needle fragments was literally like searching the Czech Republic, Portugal, USA, for a needle in a India, China and Vietnam. Scores of haystack sales affiliates and sales partners top off the international presence. Groz-Beckert offers its customers a comprehensive partnership – wit- hout boundaries and on site in over 150 countries. [www.groz-beckert.com] [Techtextil | Hall 3.0 Booth F03]

Photo: fotolia Photo: 5-6/2017 | textile network 43 Digitalisation is just business one of several mega trends

Gherzi van Delden

Opportunities besides Photo: Shutterstock Intel, Google and the like Looking back in time, the textile industry developed very much in chime with the advanced industrialisation of North America and Europe, and was rewarded with rising outputs, climbing profits and growing global demand for European textile products. In the 1970s, the Third World increasingly emerged as a viable produc- tion location.

Over the past twenty years, the in- and intermediaries demanding fashion and tempting offers have in- dustry has been shaped by the re- cheaper goods became so strong fluenced consumers to such a degree lentless advance of globalisation that retailers and brands started that they wear their newly bought with production shifting between sourcing and manufacturing more garments for no more than 16 continents and demand for textiles and more products in low-wage months on average. Textiles have on the rise. However, the trend to countries. never been cheaper and have never move manufacturing to countries had such a short life span. European with low labour costs saw Europe’s “Consumers wield the power” consumers are constantly lured by textile industry go into sharp de- Consumer behaviour has seen a “Sales” and are encouraged to fill cline. drastic transformation over the past their wardrobes with even more Traditional business models built on 10 years, driven by the over-supply of clothes. From yarn twist to seam competitive advantages such as goods and the diversity of customer thickness, in the 21st century quality fixed cost degression, raw materials solutions. Today’s consumers de- is being stripped to the bone, often to procurement, production innova- mand and expect. They can choose the point of being unsaleable. tions and so on, were prevalent in from any number of different manu- [1] A positive business At the same time, the apparel mar- model for textiles can the prolonged phase of growth into facturers and retailers. In the majori- be shaped in part by ket is being transformed by digitali- the year 2000, and generally brought ty of cases, buying decisions are first online and mobile sation: Once upon a time, the retail channels. Example success to the textile business. As and foremost swayed by price, even suitsupply landscape was shaped first by the time passed, the focus shifted to en- over quality. The quality offered by department store, then the inner-city hancing market cultivation, followed the big fast fashion retailers and dis- [2] Example Manufac- shopping centre, followed by the tum by a phase of supplier optimisation count stores is not necessarily always discount and outlet factory store. To- and innovation, allowing the textile poor; it has merely been adapted to [3] Example Sensori- day, the retail trade is losing market industry to assert itself in Europe. the expected period of use and the afitness share to online and/or mobile sales. However, pressure from consumers demands of price sensitivity. Fast [4] Example Woollaa (Global) full-range traders, chains,

[1] [2]

44 textile network | 5-6/2017 labels and brands are all on the rise their financial and operational pos- (Lidl, Zara, H&M…), with online Textiles have never been cheaper and have never sibilities, various opportunities can growing faster than bricks-and-mor- had such a short life span. European consumers be found in niche markets and direct tar sales. Standard and mass goods are constantly lured by “Sales” and are encoura- sales. are being supplied en masse by am- ged to fill their wardrobes with even more clothes. A positive business model for tex- azon. So where do we go from here? From yarn twist to seam thickness, in the 21st tiles can be shaped in part by online century quality is being stripped to the bare mini- and mobile channels. Probably one Downstream pressure in the mum, if not to the point of being unsaleable. of the most successful examples is textile chain End consumers expect, demand, recommend and suitsupply.com, a menswear compa- Anton Schumann, Senior Consultant develop innovations and are constantly changing ny that launched around 10 years of Gherzi van Delden GmbH, Krefeld, their consumer behaviour because they have the ago as a supplier of men’s and boys’ sees downstream pressure growing power to compare suppliers and are under no ob- fashion. With an efficient platform as a result of digitalisation in the ligation to buy from any one company. that appeals to customers and a [www.suitsupply.com] [www.manufactum.de] textile chain: “The traditional model quick and pro-active supply chain [www.sensoriafitness.com] [www.wollaa.com] for the textile chain is changing as management system, the company we speak and is opening up addi- has created a successful business tional options for players right along with healthy sales. the chain – from producers to retail- Holistic solutions and new business ers. Just compare the recent figures models are also at the heart of sel- for online sales and the statements dom Strickmanufaktur, which works by bricks-and-mortar retailers (cf on the basis of mass-customisation TextilWirtschaft 12/2016). The indus- and direct customer requests. Their try is changing! The trade / retailers recipe for success since 2002 has are increasingly being sidelined. Pro- been rooted in continuous cost con- ducers of textile goods can now trols, the philosophy to produce for communicate directly with the end a high-priced niche and the manu- consumer using suitable platforms factum.de online store. and communication channels. The Schumann sees mobile and online Development of the Their maxim is to “focus exclusively industry is becoming more tightly apps and platforms as important textile industry on developing and producing unu- knit, as consumers strive to use the trends. Textile producers can and sual knitted garments…Sustainabil- industry for their own needs through should go online: “This enables ity naturally also embraces the digitalisation. Mass-customisation is them to plan, develop and steer working conditions of our staff and just one buzzword from this area sales and future developments di- our dealings with our business part- that illustrates only too well the rectly with their customers. This can ners.” power now wielded by the customer. lead to enormous cost savings.” Sensoria Fitness, a company found- End consumers expect, demand, rec- ed in 2013 and employing 15 staff, ommend and develop innovations New and improved textile provides runners and joggers with and are constantly changing their business models “A smarter way to run!”, all thanks consumer behaviour because they Given the size of European textile to smart textiles. Textile sensors in- have the power to compare suppli- companies – the majority will pro- tegrated in socks evaluate data such ers and are under no obligation to duce in Asia where the lion’s share as foot pressure. buy from any one company.” of future consumers is located – and Working on the basis of mass-cus- tomisation and customer wishes, Woollaa promotes itself with the following message: “Woollaa is an industrial knitting machine connect- ed to the internet. Using specially designed editions, you can create your very own individual garment with your own story, directly online and in real time …we only produce things that people really want... Nothing is thrown away…” [3] [4] 

5-6/2017 | textile network 45 Business Textile worker, Bagru, India Gherzi is an international consultancy and service provider in the tex- tile industry. Since its establishment in 1929, Gherzi Textil Organiza- tion, Zürich – Mumbai – Hong Kong has been supporting companies involved in various fields from polymers/fibres to the finished compo- nent or textile. Anton Schumann held a paper on the topic of this ar- ticle in Chemnitz in April 2016 and Berlin in October 2016. This artic- le contains extracts from this paper. [www.gherzi.com] Photo: Freunde von Freunden

INDIA AND PAKISTAN  Moving positively into the electrical stimuli (2nd generation), Things could be much future with smart textiles and ultra-smart fabrics, which are Digitalisation will reward the textile supposed to work like a brain and better industry, the “oldest industry” in the stimulate, respond or adapt to envi- As long ago as 1996, India award- world, with many new options for ronmental conditions (3rd genera- ed Pakistan the status of most fa- creating new and extended business tion). voured country. Pakistan, however, models, particularly in the field of Conductive textiles were developed did not confer a similar status on smart textiles. Several mega trends 15 years ago, for example, in Leeds India. There is general consensus besides digitalisation, such as mo- and Chemnitz. However, it was not that both countries could expand bility, urbanisation, environmental until 2015 that Google & Levi’s their bilateral textile trade quite awareness, health and protective launched the Project Jacquard considerably, if it were not for the and safety needs, look set to gener- which culminated in the develop- world of politics placing obstacles ate further growth. ment and production of a smart tex- in its way. Whereas the global market for smart tile for the end consumer. Since Oc- It is a well-known secret that India textiles was pegged at US$ 795m tober 2016, the Levi’s Commuter exports its goods to Pakistan on in 2014, it is expected to expand Jacket has been generating healthy the flourishing black market. This at an annual rate of 34 percent sales. A small but very profitable means that the state of Pakistan, a to US$ 900m from 2015 to 2020 smart textiles industry has been de- country blighted by Islamic ex- (www.advancedtextilessource.com). veloping in the US and the UK which tremism, is losing out on essential A 40 percent climb is anticipated in supplies the military and security income through taxation. Both in- the sports and fitness segment in forces with underwear and clothing. vestment and technology are long the same period. In addition to the position of the overdue in Pakistan and again, In- And so the wheels keep on turning: wearer, this technology can also re- dia could be an important source we have already witnessed consid- cord and transfer vital signs. of private financial investment. Pa- erable advances from passive intel- kistan mainly exports leather ligent textiles, that record environ- Conclusion goods, dried fruit, tin and oil seed mental factors (1st generation) to Anton Schumann: “The textile in- to India, whereas India supplies active textiles with components dustry needs to have a rethink. So cotton, organic chemicals, plastics, “Project Jacquard by such as sensors, actuators and con- rather than expecting to develop man-made fibres and woven cloth Google & Levi’s” trol units, that convert and record business with textiles, they can and etc. to Pakistan. have to initiate business through Both countries have a well-devel- data. This is why the collaboration oped textiles industry, supplying between Google and Levi’s has foreign markets with textiles, bed- been so successful.” ding, apparel and much more. To- Companies need to identify the po- gether, India and Pakistan post a tential and risks of new technolo- Photo: Miha bodytec bilateral trade volume of just US$ gies and communication channels. 2.5bn. Business minds from both This can lead to successful business countries believe that bilateral areas, even in times of over-capaci- trade could climb to around US$ ties, slowing demand and continu- 6bn within two years if political ing pressure on prices. Design think- differences could be resolved. ing, global thinking and innovative Chairman of the India-Pakistan business models that pursue holistic Business Council, S.M. Munir, re- solutions can prove successful. Cus- cently stated that trade between tomer-led solutions must be com- the two countries had contracted bined with a corresponding promise by 20 percent. Further declines are of value if companies are to sway expected over the next few months buying decisions in their favour. should tensions between the two Thinking about the product is sec- neighbours remain high. ondary! [Manik Mehta] [www.gherzi.com] [Gisela Gozdzik]

46 textile network | 5-6/2017 Left: (Carbonisation): Dr. Martin Kirsten, Sci- entific Assistant at the ITM, next to the in- stitute’s stabilisation and carbonisation ma- chine for the production of carbon fibres

Right: Summit for textile researchers and in- dustry experts - this year in Dresden Photo: ITM/TU Dresden Photo: adpic

Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Conference Textiles contribute to construction innovations and tomorrow’s market shares

Textile institutes and SMEs in- Summit for textile resear- vest much time and energy in- chers and industry experts At a glance: to developing high-tech mate- Taking place in Dresden on 24 Germany is the leading force for technical textiles in Europe rials and structures to gener- and 25 November, this year’s and tops the table of exporters; annual sales total 13bn ate tomorrow’s sales. These Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf Euro, with the proportion of exports hovering at around may include high-performance, International Textile Confer- 45 percent. “Thanks to excellent advances in research, our fibre-based materials, textile ence will present numerous innovative companies are already offering textile solutions materials for lightweight con- new research and development with specific mechanical and protective properties and ‘in- struction or intelligent fibres. findings which are ready to be telligent’ additional functions,” states Prof. Chokri Cherif, Today’s innovative fibre com- transferred into industrial ap- Director of the ITM. The aim of this conference is to bring posites, polymers and func- plications. Market-relevant de- together companies, research institutes and universities so tionalised textile structures are velopments and trends will al- that they can underpin these competitive advantages by already creating huge opportu- so take centre stage. The in- discussing ideas, experience and information. nities for small and medium- creasing use of bespoke carbon The Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Con- sized companies across many fibres, such as those produced ference is taking place from 24 to 25 November 2016 at the industries. at the Institute of Textile Ma- International Congress Center in Dresden. chinery and High Performance Material Technology (ITM) at the Technical University of of façades using textiles, pav- possible new applications for Dresden, for example, is giving ing the way for extremely light- fibre composites and polymers, rise to completely new techno- weight, multifunctional and for functionalising textile struc- logical outlooks and high-tech adaptive building shells. These tures, creating protective and products for a wide range of shells can glow, breathe or functional textiles as well as different industries. adapt independently to chang- mega technological trends. ing environmental conditions. Other topics will include com- Surfaces in the spotlight He will argue that the huge po- posites, applications in light- Photo: Rainer Viertlboeck, Gauting Prof. Sebastian Koltzenburg, tential for creating visual and weight construction, protec- Principal Scientist at BASF, will tactile properties for façades is tive and safety applications, talk in his presentation about yet to be unleashed. Sobek’s new materials, technologies processes that specifically alter aim, therefore, is for fibre- and system developments. The the surface properties of vari- based construction to become event which has since estab- ous materials and objects using firmly established, such that its lished itself as one of the most the thinnest of textile layers – design potential is fully exploit- important industry platforms this method can create washa- ed and its constructional prop- in Europe takes place once a ble objects, enhance the soiling erties in terms of light, acous- year, alternating between the behaviour of textile fibres, pro- tics, aesthetics, breathability textile research centres of vide hospital textiles and in- and moisture transfer are mas- Aachen, Dresden and Denken- struments with antibacterial tered as a matter of course. dorf (Baden-Württemberg). finishes or make human hair Around 80 other speakers from This year, the speakers will also easier to comb, to name but a companies operating in the au- be joined by experts from Aus- few examples. tomotive, aerospace and avia- tria and Switzerland, reinforc- Bangkok: Building with textiles: The seg- Prof. Werner Sobek, architect tion, and chemicals industries, ing the international flavour of mental arched roof planned by Werner So- and engineer, will look at the the technical textile supply this industry summit meeting. bek at the new airport in Bangkok meas- ures 561m x 210m and rests on just 16 pil- hitherto unimagined technical chain and universities, will dis- [www.aachen-dresden- lars at a height of roughly 40 metres possibilities in the construction cuss the latest findings and denkendorf.de/itc]

5-6/2017 | textile network 47 business

Exclusive Series: Industrie 4.0 explained - Part 3 Digitization is finding its way In order to support employees during maintenance and inspection solutions for human-machine interaction are necessary. In the following article the term „human-machine interaction“ is used for assistance systems which help the employee doing his work by providing appropriate information and/or physical assistance, so that the employee can focus on his core tasks.

Assistance systems include technol- mation on the move. The ogies for information provision and functionality in harsh in- learning support, technical aids for dustrial environment calculation and robots for process with dust, vibration and support. The functionality of these moisture is ensured by systems can range from displaying appropriate high IP-pro- work instructions to visual or multi- tection classes. The various technolo- medial support and context-sensi- gies differ in type and scope of the in- tive augmented reality. The focus of formation provision. On tablets di- current research is on information verse and comprehensive information technology assistance systems, with numerous interaction possibili- learning systems, assistance robots ties can be allocated. For smart watch- and cognitive assistance systems. es, on the one hand, a specific adap- The last one is a special form of as- tation of the information scope is nec- sistance systems of the cognitive essary. But on the other hand the sciences, which is not considered in compact design provides advantages detail in this article. in applications where both hands must be used or only messages with a Information technology small amount of information have to assistance systems be transmitted. The possibilities for in- Localization as added value Currently mainly information technol- teraction are much more special as Besides the pure information provi- Human-machine inter- ogy assistance systems are frequently action (see Zamfirescu with data glasses and less extensive sion the functionality is enhanced used. These are very flexible in the et al., 2012) compared to tablets. by localization. Thus, information field, i. e. they are used for quality as- can be resolved in a location-specif- surance, maintenance, personnel ic manner and provided at the loca- planning as well as process monitor- tion of demand. This context-sensi- ing. The assistance is carried out by tive data provision also enables a Photo: STFI mobile devices, which appear in di- roll-specific processing, so that the verse variations from tablets and employee gets only the information smartphones to data googles and which is relevant to him and his cur- smart watches. Common in everyday rent work assignment. For localiza- life, these technologies are increas- tion technologies such as QR codes, ingly finding their way into the indus- Bluetooth or RTLS (Real-Time Locat- try in the context of digitization in or- ing System) can be used. Additional der to provide employees with infor- to the displaying of information, as-

48 textile network | 5-6/2017 Part 1 / issue 1-2/2017: Digiti- zation – networked production

Part 2 / issue 3-4/2017: Digiti- zation is finding its way – Smart Maintenance

Indoor-localization of Learning and robot systems bots, which share a work space employees by RTLS- tags attached to their Assistance systems also include with humans and enable a direct in- clothes learning systems. In the construc- teraction. By the help of sensors tion phase of machines these can and intelligent algorithms they are be designed digitally up to virtual enabled to perceive their environ- commissioning. Under certain con- ment and thus persons. In addition, ditions environments for virtual they can communicate with hu- commissioning can also be used for mans multimodally, navigate au- virtual interactive learning systems, tonomously and make decisions in- e. g. in form of 360° projections or dependently. Assistance robots are virtual reality. able to support by measurements, Based on current design data, in- testing and joining of textile com- structions can be derived for assem- ponents. In the field of assistance bly, commissioning, operation and robots programming, navigation, maintenance of a production sys- cognition, multimodal interaction tem. For example, machine opera- and safety are current research top- tors can already be qualified before ics. Marketable but still researched commissioning. Thus, the learning solutions are touch-sensitive outer environment is used to transfer fac- layers of robots to enable optimal tual and procedural knowledge. collaboration in shared workspaces. Complex working and learning situ- In matters of on-site programming, ations can be created in the envi- in the future robots will be pro- ronment. Through real-time interac- grammable even easier. So far, tions in the digital world experience movement paths have been gener- can be gained. Furthermore, also ated by means of teach-in program- learning scenarios are possible dur- ming, which stands for driven via a ing plant operation. For this pur- control panel. In the future, these pose stationary control panels as movement paths can be generated well as mobile devices such as on the basis of algorithms that imi- smart glasses can be used. By tate man-given motion sequences. means of videos and animations Applications are currently in the with direct interaction, the process field of joining components. Hu- and system understanding can be mans in production environments increased and knowledge of the op- are increasingly supported in their

Photo: STFI eration can be conveyed. Besides, activities by new technologies for current research tendencies tend to human-machine interaction. generate learning contents during How the role of humans and their the operation by gathering experi- tasks will change by the digitization Smart glass as interac- sistance systems are also used for tion interface to the ence knowledge. A further charac- will be considered in the fourth part decision support by analyzing and machine teristic of assistance systems are ro- of the series in the upcoming edi- evaluating, for example machine tion of textile network. data. The data obtained via Indus- [Sten Döhler1, Andreas Merkel2, trie 4.0 communication interfaces Dirk Zschenderlein1] can be evaluated directly on the [Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut spot using big data approaches and Chemnitz e.V. (STFI)1, Futuretex the results can be used for deci- Management GmbH Chemnitz2] sions. The interaction capability and the network connection of the mo- bile devices allow direct triggering In the next issue textile net- of subsequent processes, such as work 7-8/2017 you can read the access to a spare parts catalog Part 4 wich has the title “wor- and the subsequent ordering or the king world“ generation and triggering of main- tenance orders. Photo: W. Schmidt

5-6/2017 | textile network 49 Puma has set up a programme in coopera- business tion with the IFC and BNP Paribas, to offer its suppliers easier access to financing opportunities Photo: istock

Puma Full speed ahead towards digitalisation

The fact that digital transforma- IT infrastructure. In this regard, such as the clothing industry ment and ecological standards. tion of the supply chain is not Puma has established a cloud often work with a large number Puma has set up its own sup- just a much-used catchphrase, platform with which to optimise of small suppliers, especially plier evaluation system for this but is already actually happen- and standardise processes with from countries of Asia such as purpose: suppliers may be giv- ing, is demonstrated by the ex- its suppliers. This platform con- Bangladesh, Cambodia, China en a rating of A, B+, B-, C or D ample of Puma, the sports trols all of its global ordering and Vietnam. Puma itself cur- and the system is monitored by goods manufacturer. The com- and invoicing streams as well as rently has 133 product manu- a regular inspection process pany, based in Herzogenaurach coordinating the despatch of facturers (tier 1) and material that takes place either annually in the German state of Bavaria, goods, providing both Puma producers (tiers 2 and 3) in or every four months, depend- employs over 11,000 people and its suppliers with transpar- Asia. This is where its products ing on the rating. The Puma worldwide and aims to become ency down to goods unit level. can be manufactured at par- Vendor Financing Program, as the fastest sports brand in the With the right technology, ticularly low cost. The condi- it is called, awards financing at world. Alongside increasing the therefore, Puma is already tions in which the local workers rates that vary according to this desirability of the Puma brand, working on the supply chain of are producing the goods, how- rating. This is a financial incen- optimising its product develop- the future. ever, continue to damage repu- tive for the suppliers, but they ment and improving the quality tations through negative head- also benefit over the longer of its distribution, strategic Puma promotes lines, as with the collapse of term from improved social measures undertaken by Puma sustainability with digital the Rana Plaza textile factory in standards, as a result of im- also include accelerating its or- financing project Bangladesh a while ago. At the proved performance from the ganisational and internal pro- Sustainability, however, is also same time, though, it is diffi- workforce and lower overall cesses, as well as upgrading its a core theme at Puma. Sectors cult for these small local suppli- running costs. The fact that the ers to come by the affordable programme is controlled and finance that they require for monitored digitally means in Everyone is talking of Industry 4.0 and of digital transfor- production. For this reason, turn that data flows through- mation. Companies are faced with a decision: should they invest and jump onto the train, or risk missing their connec- sports goods manufacturer Pu- out the shared cloud network tion? According to a recent survey that questioned senior ma has set up a programme in linking Puma with its suppliers. management of large international businesses specifically cooperation with the IFC (a Already, 15% of Puma's suppli- about digitalisation of the supply chain, 75 percent of res- member of the World Bank ers are participating in the fi- pondents regard digital transformation of the supply chain Group) and BNP Paribas, to of- nancing initiative and more as important but only 5 percent are satisfied with current fer its suppliers in just such than US$ 100m have been dis- progress. As many as 70 percent said they had launched countries easier access to fi- tributed through the pro- digitalisation initiatives; but increasingly the question of nancing opportunities. The gramme. concrete results is being raised, and whether heavy invest- suppliers for their part are re- Puma's example shows that, ment in digitalisation will really pay dividends. quired to demonstrate im- whether by simplifying operat- provements in social, employ- ing processes and increasing

50 textile network | 5-6/2017 COMPANIES/ADVERTISEMENTS

Companie Page Companie Page Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf 47 Juki 35

Acker Textilwerk 15 Karl Mayer 29 Allma 30 Kuris Spezialmaschinen 34 Amann & Söhne 5 Lectra 7 Amann Group 32 Bache 53 Leister Technologies 40

Photo: Lewis Dilo Group 39 Mayer & Cie. 21 Dürkopp Adler 38 The fact that digital transformation of Memminger-IRO 31 the supply chain is not just a much-used E-Broidery Elements 30 catchphrase is demonstrated by the Messe Frankfurt 1, 19, 31 example of Puma EMS-Griltech 21 Milano Unica 8 Eschler 23 Ettlin 23 Mimaki 32 Frankl & Kirchner 38 Ontec 26 Our author Stefanie Wa- gensonner is a supply Fraunhofer IAP 13 Perlon 27 chain expert and is res- Freudenberg 21 ponsible for marketing to Pfaff 37 Frohn Hightex Group 22 the DACH countries at In- Pfand 24 for member GT Nexus, the Futuretex 48 largest cloud platform in Gebrüder Wylach 24 Proposte 9 the world for global trade Geos 23 and supply chain manage- Puma 50 Gerber Technology 33 ment, which handles Sandler 25, 27 goods worth over US$ Gertsch Consulting 34, 41 150bn a year. Among its Senbert 22, 26 Getzner Textil 26 over 28,000 customers on Shima Seiki 29 the platform are many Gherzi van Delden 44 global companies. Groz-Beckert 30, 42, 56 Sihl 9

Gunold 32 Sotex 29 transparency or by creating fi- Gütermann 19 nancing opportunities along STFI 48 Hellmann 37 the supply chain, digital trans- H. Stoll 2, 37, 53 formation is no empty catch- Hohenstein Gruppe 20 phrase but is already a reality. Hornung Indupress 36 Tajima 17 It is enabling completely new Human Solutions 35 TITV Greiz/Imbut 24 approaches, not only to im- prove the financial success of Intertextile Shanghai 8, 10 Trützschler 25 the business but additionally to Intex 3, 36 TVU 53 promote sustainability. Even Invista 33, 39 though we are undoubtedly Typical-Europe 38 still at the very beginning of a Iprotex 22, 35 major revolution, it pays com- ITCF Denkendorf 14 Zitex 54 panies to be courageous and to IVGT 28 Zünd Systemtechnik 11, 34 become one of the pioneers of digitalisation right now. The list does not claim to be complete. The publisher reserves the right to make editorial changes at short [www.gtnexus.de] notice. [Stefanie Wagensonner]

5-6/2017 | textile network 51 business

IFWS/IFKT Swiss National Section in 2017

Following a series of success- choice of areas will be extreme- tive environment. This year’s sit will also be offered. This ful events in 2016, prepara- ly extensive and will require conference will also discuss the year’s tour takes place at tex- tions for this year’s congress considerable planning, includ- framework for medium-term tile finishing firm Schellen- and annual general meeting ing several meetings and con- planning in the future. The high berg Textildruck. Members on 19 May 2017 are in full ferences. Future perspectives in number of students from the and friends of the German swing. The organisers are conjunction with ‘traditional textile technology pathway at and Austrian National Sec- proposing various themes textile thinking’ will be dis- the Swiss STF College are ta- tions are also invited to at- that will be conferred at the cussed in depth with a view to king part which is seen as a po- tend the event. Questions meeting upon small teams helping the industry adjust its sitive development. As is custo- and registrations should be for further exploration. The bearings in a positive competi- mary at this event, a factory vi- sent to: [email protected]

WerWer WoWo WasWas || DerDer textiletextile BranchenführerBranchenführer Who What Where | The textile suppliers guide

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52 textile network | 5-6/2017

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7-811-12/201211-12/2012/2013 | textile || textiletextile network networknetwork 372929 preview | imprint

The international premium magazine for the textile chain The next issue of will be published on 30th June 2017 and these are some of our topics: IMPRINT 15th year of publication · Issue 5-6/2017 ISSN 1612-5088, publication date: 04/27/2017 Publisher’s Meisenbach GmbH Address: Franz-Ludwig-Straße 7a 96047 Bamberg/Germany Postfach 2069 96011 Bamberg/Germany Zünd USA Phone: +49 951 861-0 Fax: +49 951 861-158 In 2016, German office furniture pro- Gina Locklear had wanted to join her www.textile-network.com ducer König+Neurath invested in sta- family’s sock manufacturing business www.meisenbach.de te-of-the-art digital cutting technolo- in Fort Payne, Ala., since she was in Managing Director: Ulrich Stetter gy from Zünd. Since commissioning college. That was in the early 2000s. Head of the new G3 L-3200 cutter, the com- Momentum towards cheap imported editorial office: Sabine Stenzel pany has seen a marked improve- socks was robbing the north-eastern Head of online ment in cutting efficiency. Alabama town of its revered reputati- editorial office: Daniel Keienburg Manager sales / on as the “Sock Capital of the distribution/ World.” marketing: Christian Matthe Editor-in-chief: Dipl.-Ing. Iris Schlomski Phone: +49 5527 979440 Fax: +49 5527 979441 Nordhäuser Straße 34 37115 Duderstadt/Germany [email protected] Editorial Staff: Anja Menzel (Assistenz) Phone: +49 951 861-117 Fax: +49 951 861-170 [email protected] Contributing Iris Schlomski, Ingrid Sachsenmaier, Manik Mehta, Sten Döhler, Dirk Zschenderlein, Andreas Merkel, Stefanie Wagensonner, Gisela Gozdzik, Nancy Renning, Ulrich Hageroth Advertising Sales: Bernd Raithel Phone: +49 951 861-145 Fax: +49 951 861-161 [email protected] Advertising Matthias Fichtel Administration: Phone: +49 951 861-169

Photo: König+Neurath Photo: Emi-G Fax: +49 951 861-161 [email protected] Responsibility: Responsible according to the German press law for Editorial: Dipl.-Ing. Iris Schlomski for Advertisement: Bernd Raithel (both: Franz-Ludwig-Straße 7a, Sustainability 96047 Bamberg/Germany) As one of the world’s biggest produ- Layout: Andrea Mühl, Timo Wiesmann Photo: Trevira cers of denim and flat woven fabrics Print: Schleunungdruck GmbH and the uncontested market leader in Eltertstraße 27 97828 Marktheidenfeld/Germany Latin America, Vicunha Textil also sets Sales: Ulla Schiel new standards in terms of sustainabi- Phone: +49 951 861-101 Fax: +49 951 861-158 lity, environmental protection, service [email protected] and social responsibility. The company Distribution: Meisenbach GmbH Reader's service textile network processes 100,000 tonnes of cotton Franz-Ludwig-Straße 7a per year, most of which is sustainable 96047 Bamberg Phone: +49 951 861-101 BCI cotton from Brazil. Fax: +49 951 861-158 [email protected] Subscription charge: textile network (12 issues p.a., thereof 6 double issues). Germany: EUR 130.00 (incl. VAT and postage) Trevira CS Europe: EUR 151.00, Overseas: EUR 181.00 As part of its Club Concept, Trevira re- The magazine and the individual contributions and illustra- cently invited suppliers of Trevira CS tions contained therein are all protected by copyright. Once the publisher has accepted the manuscript, the publication fabrics to enter their latest develop- rights, the translation rights, the reprint rights, the electronic database storage rights, the right to manufacture offprints, ments into its fifth fabric creativity photocopies and microcopies pass onto the publishing house. Any utilization that violates the boundaries set down competition. By taking part in the an- by copyright law is not permitted without the prior consent nual contest, fabric suppliers can coll- of the publishing house. The forwarding of unrequested arti- cles and information to the publisher automatically implies ect Trevira CS Club points. If they are that revocable consent has been granted to the publisher to save the articles or information supplied in a database which placed first, second or third in a cate- is administered either by the publishing house or a third gory, they are heavily rewarded with party cooperating with the publishing house. The current advertising rate card is issue 14 dated October extra Club points. 2016. Photo: Vicunha © 2017, Meisenbach GmbH

5-6/2017 | textile network 53 Last but not least Photos: Zitex

The winners of the Next 2016 new talent awards (left to right): Jens Vieth (2nd prize), Kat- The winners of the Next 2016 new talent awards (left to right): Le- ja Brüsewitz (special prize), Leonie Hempelmann (3rd prize) and Aylin Savas (1st prize) onie Hempelmann (3rd prize), Aylin Savas (1st prize), Katja Brüse- with speakers Thomas Buschmann of Deutsche Bank AG, Oliver Labjuhn of Bugatti GmbH witz (special prize) and Jens Vieth (2nd prize) with Detlef Braun, and Rolf A. Königs, CEO of the Aunde Group Director of Zitex Mode & Textil NRW

Last but not least Next 2016 new talent competition

Innovation is the magic word ing for the sixth time, recognis- youngest of the award winners. further training to become a when it comes to resisting es talented members of the Her employer recognised her fashion tailor. competitive pressures from the next generation who have not high level of qualification and The special prize covers not on- Far East. The development of only performed best in their offered her a permanent posi- ly trade-specific skills but also a highly specialised products training in commercial and tion following completion of demonstration of social com- such as technical or high-tech technical occupations but have her training in mid-2016. mitment and extramural inter- textiles requires a technically demonstrated a high level of The Next 2016 second prize ests such as music or sport, as skilled and innovation-friendly engagement beyond the train- was awarded to Jens Vieth, well as involvement with a workforce, with the right train- ing itself.” It covers a number textile laboratory technician team or in a voluntary activity. ing for an industry that is look- of qualified trades and occupa- specialising in textile technolo- This year the prize was award- ing to the future. In order to tions: machine operator in tex- gy, who trained at Polyvlies ed to Katja Brüsewitz, who publicise the opportunities and tile technology and finishing, Franz Beyer in trained as a textile prod- career paths available in the production mechanic, product Hörstel. He textile and clothing industry inspector, product designer, discovered more widely, the Next competi- product finisher, textile labora- an interest in tion recognises new entrants to tory technician, manufacturing laboratory ac- the textile and fashion sector technician, fashion needle- tivities and who have performed outstand- worker, and fashion and be- testing while ingly in their commercial and spoke tailor. still at school, so once he had technical training, notably in An expert jury adjudged the completed his final school ex- those fields where the recruit- three best entries and also ams he started his training as a ment problem is severe but awarded a special prize. The textile lab technician at Polyv- where the industry’s future ac- first prize in Next 2016 went to lies Franz Beyer, where he was tually lies. Detlef Braun, Direc- Aylin Savas, who completed similarly offered a permanent tor of the NRW textile and fash- her training as a product finish- position once the course was Rolf A. Königs, CEO of the Aunde Group of Mönchengladbach, congratulates the win- ion journal ‘ZiTex’, explained er, specialising in textiles, at completed. ner of the Next special prize Katja Brüse- what made this prize for new Eing Textilveredelung und Han- The Next 2016 third prize went witz, Product Inspector at Gardeur GmbH, recruits so special: “The Next delsgesellschaft, based in Ge- to Leonie Hempelmann, who Mönchengladbach award, which we are present- scher. At 19, Aylin Savas is the has completed her training as a fashion needleworker at bugat- uct inspector at Gardeur GmbH ti GmbH, in Herford. After com- of Mönchengladbach. Katja pleting her final school exams Brüsewitz demonstrated a true and spending time abroad in willingness to get involved and Australia, she began training a high degree of interest during as a fashion needleworker at her training, which she com- bugatti and is now undertaking pleted successfully in June 2016. She has now joined Gar-

All 21 nominees, with the winners of the deur as a skilled employee. Next 2016 new talent awards [www.zitex.de]

54 textile network | 5-6/2017 ESPECIALLY FOR YOU!

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At Home in the Textile World

Rooted in the region and at home worldwide – that's Groz-Beckert. As a leading international supplier of industrial machine needles, precision parts, precision tools and systems, we place the highest standards on quality and precision where our products and services are concerned. With around 7,700 employees and approx- imately 70,000 product types for the knitting, weaving, felting, tufting, carding and sewing sectors, we're the ideal partner in the textile industry. We help our customers Techtextil 2017 achieve their goals – and have done so since 1852. www.groz-beckert.com Frankfurt / Main, Germany May 09–12, 2017 Hall 3.0, Booth F 03

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