Deliverable Report 6.4 Technical Publication

TEX-SHIELD GA 315497

PROJECT DELIVERABLE REPORT

Grant Agreement no: 315497

TEX-SHIELD

Environmental friendly and Durable Oil and Water Repellence Finish on Technical Textiles

Collaborative Projects SME-2012-2

Type: Deliverable

D6.4 Technical Publication

Issuing partner TWI Participating partners NWTEXNet, UP-TEX, UNITEX, TECHTERA, PANAZ, Eva Commerce, DECCA, SamprasNANO, CTF2000, TWI, INSA- LYON, UCG Document name and revision D6.4 Author Colin Graves Deliverable due date November 2015 Actual submission date January 2016

Project coordinator NWTEXNET Tel +44 795 833 8969 Fax E-mail [email protected] Project website address http://www.texshield-project.eu/

Project co-funded by the European Commission within the Seventh Framework Programme (2008-2012) Dissemination Level PU Public x PP Restricted to other programme participants (including the Commission Services) RE Restricted to a group specified by the consortium (including the Commission Services) CO Confidential, only for members of the consortium (including the Commission Services)

Contents

1.0 Introduction ...... 1 2.0 Document Scope ...... 1 3.0 Dissemination Activities ...... 1 3.1 Promotional documentation ...... 1 3.2 Internet sites ...... 2 3.3 Conferences, workshops and trade shows ...... 3 3.4 Other dissemination activities ...... 8 4.0 Conclusions ...... 9

1.0 Introduction Water, oil and soil repellences are desirable characteristics for fabrics in many market segments and the textile industry has developed a variety of finishes which impart such properties. Perfluorinated polymers (fluoropolymers) are known for their excellent water, oil and soil (wet or dry dirt) repellent properties and are the basis of the dominant technology used to apply a functional finish on textiles, particularly for waterproof clothing.

Perfluorinated polymers are based on perfluorocarbons (PFCs) which have eight carbon atoms – frequently referred to as C8 PFC chemistry, Figure 1. However, C8 PFC based polymers have significant health and environmental concerns because they are possible carcinogens, stable in the environment and are bioaccumulative. The level of concern is such that perfluorinated chemistry is now subject to legislation and the materials are no longer manufactured in Europe or the US.

Figure 1: Typically accepted drawn structure for perfluorooctanoic acid that forms the base of perfluorocarbons with a chain of eight carbons.

Replacement of C8 PFC chemistry is therefore topical, and for the textile industry critical. The aim of the TEX-SHIELD project was to offer alternatives as replacement for the incumbent C8 PFC chemistry whilst maintaining the same level of repellency performance.

2.0 Document Scope The objective of this document was to list the publications and dissemination undertaken through the TEX- SHIELD project and to provide an indication of how widely disseminated and far reaching the work of this project has achieved.

3.0 Dissemination Activities

3.1 Promotional documentation During the project several documents have been generated describing the purpose and direction of the TEX-SHIELD project. These documents were prepared so that the entire project consortium could use them to talk about the programme and progress made. Examples of these documents are provided in Appendices

A and B. Appendix A is a flyer intended for distribution at exhibitions and trade shows. Appendix B is a set of PowerPoint slides. These were used as a tool for the partners when describing the project to their customers on a one-to-one basis.

3.2 Internet sites There is a project website, http://www.texshield-project.eu/ that provided an overview of the project to the public and gave details of key contacts concerning the project. As well as providing a tool for partners to share information with each other, it was also intended as a reference point for members of the public or other interested organisations to discover the project.

The SME association partners focus on serving the textile industry. Each of the associations had their own web sites with adverts for the TEX-SHIELD project and links to the project web site. For instance:  Nwtexnet: http://nwtexnet.co.uk/research-development/

http://www.clustercollaboration.eu/web/nwtexnet

 Unitex: http://www.unitex.be/index.php/texshield.html

Unitex typically achieve 300 hits on their web site per month.

 Uptex: http://www.up-tex.fr/les-projets/up-tex-en-europe/tex-shield.html

Uptex have 140 members organisations and regularly have 2886 hits on their web site per month.

 Techtera: http://www.techtera.co.uk/innovation/geotextiles?menu=150

Techtera have 110 members and typically obtain 1830 hits on their web site per month.

Assuming that only 10% of the hits to these websites viewed a discussion on the TEX-SHIELD project, this still constituted an exposure of the programme to 7,500 people over the projects duration.

Besides the SME associations, the TEX-SHIELD project was advertised on other partners web sites, for instance:  Sampas Nano Technoloji: http://www.sampasnano.com/arge-projects/tex-shield.html which had 563 hits during the course of the project.

 TWI: http://www.twi-global.com/news-events/connect/2013/connect-september-october-2013/tex-shield- project/

Although not solely focused on the textile market, TWI are a member based organisation having in excess of 700 member companies covering a wide range of industries.

 University College Ghent: https://www.hogent.be/onderzoek/onderzoeksnieuwsbrief/artikels-externe- nieuwsbrief-3/gebruikersgroep-tex-shield-vergadert-in-gent/ https://www.hogent.be/zoekresultaat/?Keywords=texshield&display=search&newSearch=true&noCache=1 http://expertise.hogent.be/nl/searchall.html?searchall=texshield

3.3 Conferences, workshops and trade shows Although not exhaustive, Tables 1 to 3 list the major conferences and fairs where the TEX-SHIELD project has been disseminated over its three year duration.

Table 1: Conferences and exhibitions where the TEX-SHIELD project has been disseminated reaching a potential audience of 41,507 people within the textile and scientific industries

Countries No. Type of activities Main leader Title Date Place Type of audience Size of audience addressed

TEX-SHIELD presentation Textile Industrials, Scientific 1 Conference UP-tex 12/09/2013 Dornbirn, AU 800 EU DORNBIRN Community

TEX-SHIELD poster on 10/09/2013- Textile Industrials, Scientific Visitors fair (10,000 2 Fair Mood 2013 UCG & UNITEX Brussels, B EU booth 13/09/2013 Community, Designers attendees)

Fair & Conference TEX-SHIELD poster on 11/06/2013- Textile Industrials, Scientific Visitors fair 3 UCG & UNITEX Frankfurt, G EU - Worldwide Techtextil 2013 booth 13/06/2013 Community (27,500 attendees)

Fair & Conference TEX-SHIELD presentation 11/06/2013- Textile Industrials, Scientific Visitors fair 4 UCG & UNITEX Frankfurt, G EU - Worldwide Techtextil 2013 (Tom Van Hove) 13/06/2013 Community (27,500 attendees)

B2B networkday TEX-SHIELD poster + demo Textile Industrials, students, 5 UCG & UNITEX 19/04/2013 Gent, B 115 Belgium Texstream 2013 water en oil repellent future students, schools

TEX-SHIELD poster on Visitors fair (2438 6 Fair Eurofinish 2013 UCG & UNITEX Week 43/2013 Gent, B Industrials EU booth attendees)

7th European Coating TEX-SHIELD poster on Textile Industrials, Scientific 7 UNITEX & UCG 5 & 6/09/2013 Gent, B 223 EU Conference 2013 booth Community

7th European Coating TEX-SHIELD presentations Textile Industrials, Scientific 8 UNITEX & UCG 5 & 6/09/2013 Gent, B 223 EU Conference 2013 (Frank Godefroidt) Community

Students HoGent TEX-SHIELD workshop (Ilse 9 Student Exchange UCG 04/12/2013 Gent, B Trendwatching & Students 31 EU Garez) Fontys ACI

Sportsgear Congress TEX-Shield presentation Annecy-le-Vieux Visitors fair, 280 10 UNITEX - UCG 17-18/12/2013 Textile industrials EU 2013 (Marc Van Parys) (Fr) attendees

(Super) Hydrophobic Textile 7th European Coating 11 Insa Lyon Finishing: Strategy for a 05/09/2013 Gent, Belgium Scientists, Industries 200 EU - Worldwide Conference 2013 Silicone Solution

Table 2: Conferences and exhibitions where the TEX-SHIELD project has been disseminated reaching a potential audience of 7,307 people within the textile and scientific industries

Countries No. Type of activities Main leader Title Date Place Type of audience Size of audience addressed Digital technologies for carpets and Textile companies, suppliers, 1 Helmtextile WTIN (UNITEX) attributes - the opportunities, lecture + 10/01/2014 Frankfurt 105 EU-Worldwide students, designers leaflets Meeting on invitation: Textile 2 Flagship Euratex (UCG) TEX-SHIELD lecture 22/01/2014 Brussels Invited industrials 12 EU Sustainable textile raw material Meeting on invitation: Textile 3 Euratex (UCG) TEX-SHIELD lecture 23/01/2014 Brussels Invited industrials 15 EU Flagship From wet to dry processing TEPPIES 4 Euratex (UCG) TEX-SHIELD leaflet 23,24/01/2014 Brussels Invited industrials 240 EU Conference Meeting B2B networkday, 5 Fedustria (UCG) TEX-SHIELD leaflet 30/01/2014 Gent Invited industrials 20 Belgium Technisch Textiel network day B2C networkday, 6 Opendeurdag UCG TEX-SHIELD poster + leaflet + demo 28/04/2014 Gent Students & family 100 Belgium HoGent2014 B2C network day, TEX-SHIELD poster + demo water en Textile Industrials, students, 7 Texstream 2014 UCG & UNITEX 08/05/2014 Gent 115 Belgium oil repellent future students, schools

Digital Printing of Textile: the right Textile, plastic, paper industries, 8 FESPA 2014 Unitex 21/05/2014 Munchen 57 EU-Worldwide choice - lecture, leaflets suppliers, students

17th International Environmentally-Friendly and Durable 9 Symposium on Insa Lyon Oil and Water Repellences on 05/08/2014 Berlin Scientists, Industries 600 EU-Worldwide Silicon Chemistry Technical Textiles - poster only

European 10 Conference on Centexbel (UCG) TEX-SHIELD lecture 14,15,16/05/2014 Brugge Invited Textile Industrials, 200 EU Protective Clothing Environmentally-Friendly and Durable 11 Lecture Insa Lyon Oil and Water Repellences on 30/06/2014 Lyon Scientists 50 France Technical Textiles European 12 Technical Coating TEX-SHIELD leaflet + poster (booth) 2-4/09/2014 Köln Invited Textile Industrials, 480 EU Congress 2014

3rd Digital Textile 13 Unitex + UCG TEX-SHIELD leaflet + poster (booth) 4 + 5/09/2014 Gent Invited Textile Industrials, 251 EU Congress 2014

Micro-deposition of functional chemicals Broad audience (users, 14 ESMA - Congress Unitex 01/10/2014 Dusseldorf 378 Worldwide on Textile - lecture + leaflets suppliers, students….)

The change from Analogue to Digital Textile companies, suppliers, 15 FESPA Congress Unitex (digital printing and finishing) - lecture + 02/10/2014 Milan 102 Worldwide students, designers leaflets

Textile Industrials, Scientific Visitors fair, (4787 16 Fair MoOD 2014 UCG & UNITEX TEX-SHIELD poster on booth 8-10/09/2014 Brussels, B EU Community, Designers attendees)

Individual Presentation of TEX-SHIELD to Protex 17 UP-tex 15/09/2014 Paris, France Chemical Company 1 France dissemination International

Individual Presentation of TEX-SHIELD to 18 UP-tex 16/09/2014 Arcueil, France Medical Company 2 France dissemination INNOTHERA

Individual Presentation of TEX-SHIELD to 19 UP-tex 10/10/2014 Hem, France Textile Company 1 France dissemination LENFANT

Table 2 (continued): Conferences and exhibitions where the TEX-SHIELD project has been disseminated reaching a potential audience of 7,307 people within the textile and scientific industries

Countries No. Type of activities Main leader Title Date Place Type of audience Size of audience addressed

Lecture - FPS Functionnalized Nonwoven for liquid 20 UP-tex 15/10/2014 Lyon, France Companies and Scientists 60 EU 2014 filtration

B2B networkday Roadshow Smart Sirris (UCG + 21 TEX-SHIELD Lecture 16/10/2014 Diepenbeek Invited Textile Industrials, 39 Belgium Coating Application Unitex) Lab

B2B networkday Roadshow Smart 22 Sirris (Unitex) TEX-SHIELD Lecture 21/10/2014 Ghent Invited Textile Industrials, 49 Belgium Coating Application Lab

B2B networkday Roadshow Smart 23 Sirris (UCG) TEX-SHIELD Lecture 23/10/2014 Gent Invited Textile Industrials, 49 Belgium Coating Application Lab

2nd International FR Conference on 24 Centexbel TEX-SHIELD leaflet 16-17/10/2014 Gent Invited Textile Industrials, 150 EU Fire safe textile & plastics

Individual 25 UP-tex Presentation of TEX-SHIELD to Hermes 04/11/2014 Tourcoing, France Textile Company 2 France dissemination

Digital Coating technologies - an update. - Two lectures + leaflets 26 TCL2015 congress ITN News (Unitex) UV-coating:Turning major wet coating 4-5/11-2014 Cannes General 110 Worldwide processes into dry and energy efficient processes

Commission 27 meeting Technical Fedustria (UCG) TEX-SHIELD Lecture (Tom Van Hove) 06/11/2014 Gent Invited Textile Industrials, 22 Belgium Textile

Commission TEX-SHIELD Lecture (Frank 28 meeting Technical Fedustria (UCG) 06/11/2014 Gent Invited Textile Industrials, 22 Belgium Godefroidt) Textile

Commission 29 meeting Technical Fedustria (UCG) TEX-SHIELD Lecture (Ilse Garez) 06/11/2014 Gent Invited Textile Industrials, 22 Belgium Textile

Textile companies, research Euratex PPE Novel functionalisation technologies - 30 Unitex 17/11/2014 Brussels institutes, associations, 200 EU congress lecture + leaflets universities, suppliers

Euratex Textile Industrials, students, 31 Euratex (UCG) TEX-SHIELD leaflet 18/11/2014 Brussel B 130 EU Convention 2014 future students, schools

PPE Conference Textile Industrials, students, 32 Euratex (UCG) TEX-SHIELD lecture 18-19/11/2014 Brussel, B 130 EU 2014 future students, schools

Congress Global Textile Industrials, students, 33 Fashion UCG TEX-SHIELD poster 19-21/11/2014 Gent, B EU future students, schools Conference 2014

Individual Presentation of TEX-SHIELD to 34 UP-tex 05/12/2014 Zonnebeck, Belgium Textile Company 2 Belgium dissemination DESLEE CLAMA

ESMA PID Congress Digital technologies: a step forwards for Broad audience (users, suppliers, 35 Unitex 27/11/2014 Dusseldorf 350 Worldwide 2014 creative textile ‐ lecture + leaflets students….)

Digital technologies for the factory of the Invited authorities, companies, 36 TenCate Unitex 09/12/2014 Nijverdaal 90 Netherlands ruture ‐ lecture decision makers

Table 3: Conferences and exhibitions where the TEX-SHIELD project has been disseminated reaching a potential audience of 117,814 people within the textile and scientific industries

No. Type of activities Main leader Title Date Place Type of audience Size of audience Countries addressed

Presentation of TEXSHIELD to DHJ 1 Individual dissemination UP‐tex 08/01/2015 Selestat, France Textile Company 3 France International

2 Individual dissemination UP‐tex Presentation of TEXSHIELD to Barbry 09/03/2015 Sailly‐sur‐la‐Lys, France Textile Company 2 France

Company working on 3 Individual dissemination UP‐tex Presentation of TEXSHIELD to Choquenet 20/03/2015 Chauny, France 2France water filtration

4 10th Annual ETP Conference Euratex (UCG) TEX‐SHIELD leaflet 25,26/03/2015 Brussels Ondustrialists 150 EU

Europlasma (UCG + Presentation of TexShield Project + New Manufacturer of 5 Individual dissemination 27/01/2015 Oudenaarde 3Belgium UNITEX) coating technologies plasma machines Functionalisation technologies ‐ An update. Textile Companies, 6Euratex EATP congress Unitex 26/03/2015 Brussels 150 EU ‐ Leaflets research institutes Presentation of TEXSHIELD to Dickson 7 Individual dissemination UP‐tex 30/03/2015 Wasquehal, France Textile Company 2 France Constant

Presentation of TexShield Project + New 8 Individual dissemination Unitex 02/04/2015 Ingelmunster Textile company 10 Belgium coating technologies to VETEX

Presentation of TEXSHIELD to Noyon 9 Individual dissemination UP‐tex 08/04/2015 Calais, France Textile Company 2 France Dentelles

Presentation of TexShield Project + new 10 Individual dissemination Unitex 15/04/2015 Tielt Textile company 8 Belgium coating technologies to Seyntex

Presentation of TexShield Project + new 11 Individual dissemination Unitex 15/04/2015 Aardoole Textile company 23 Belgium coating technologies to Sioen

Industrialists, 12 Workshop Smart & Wearable Textile Centexbel (UCG) TEX‐SHIELD leaflet 28/04/2015 Zwijnaarde 25 EU Scientists

Towards environmentally‐friendly durable 10th International Workshop on 13 InsaLyon oil‐and‐water repellent finishing on 29/04/2015 Aussois, France Scientists, Industries 80 EU ‐ worldwide Silicon‐Based Polymers technical textiles

Messe Franfurt Industrialists and Visitors fair, 42000 14 Fair Techtextil 2015 TEX‐SHIELD leaflet + poster (booth) 04/05/2015 Frankfurt EU ‐ worldwide (UCG) scientists attendees

Messe Franfurt Industrialists and Visitors fair, 42000 15 Fair Techtextil 2015 TEX‐SHIELD leaflet + poster (booth) 03‐06/05/2015 Frankfurt EU ‐ worldwide (Unitex) scientists attendees

Dissemination of communication support Dissemination of TEXSHIELD 16 UP‐tex on our booth during the 4 days textile 06/05/2015 Frankfurt, Germany Textile companies 100 EU ‐ worldwide presentation exhibition TECHTEXTIL

Poster Industrialists and Visitors fair, 42000 17 TECHTEXTIL, 2015 Techtera 04 ‐ 07/05/2015 Frankfurt, Germany EU ‐ worldwide Flyers scientists attendees

18 Individual dissemination UP‐tex Presentation of TEXSHIELD to CHT Bezema 12/05/2015 Tourcoing, France Chemical Company 2 France

19 Individual dissemination UP‐tex Presentation of TEXSHIELD to FEUTRIE 18/05/2015 Sailly‐sur‐la‐Lys, France Textile Company 2 France

MATERIALS WORKSHOP BY 20 Techtera Oral presentation 19/05/2015 LYON / FRANCE Scientists Unknown France TECHTERA

21 5th World carpet Conference Unitex + UCG TEX‐SHIELD leaflet + poster (booth) 28, 29/05/2015 Gent Industrialists 249 EU

Stad Antwerpen 22 Stabslabo 2050, Co Creation day TEX‐SHIELD leaflet 05/06/2015 Antwerpen Scientists, Industries 12 Belgium (UCG)

Visitors fair, 1850 23 Eurofinish 2015 UCG & UNITEX TEX‐SHIELD poster on booth, leaflet 10 & 11/06/2015 Leuven (Brabanthal), B Industrials EU attendees

Que peuvent apporter les nouvelles Companies and 24 Lecture ‐ Environord 2015 UP‐tex technologies textiles dans le domaine de la 11/06/2015 Lille, France 70 EU Scientists gestion de l'eau ? Textile Flagship 7, sustainable 25 Euratex (UCG) TEX‐SHIELD leaflet 26/06/2015 Brussels Scientists, Industries 12 EU business models Textile Flagship 1 & 2 raw materials & 26 Euratex (UCG) TEX‐SHIELD leaflet 25/06/2015 Brussels Scientists, Industries 25 EU resource‐efficient technologies

Table 3 (continued): Conferences and exhibitions where the TEX-SHIELD project has been disseminated reaching a potential audience of 117,814 people within the textile and scientific industries

No. Type of activities Main leader Title Date Place Type of audience Size of audience Countries addressed

Carpet industry in transition: Creative Invited textile 27 4th World Carpet Congress Unitex ‐ UCG functionality or functional creativity. 28‐29/05/2015 Ghent 249 Belgium scientists Lecture + booth + Leaflets

Presentation of TEXSHIELD to St Dizier Company working on 28 Individual dissemination UP‐tex 09/07/2015 Gondecourt, France 3FR Environnement water depollution

Textile Industrials, 29 8th European Coating Congress 2015 UNITEX & UCG TEX‐SHIELD poster on booth 3&4/09/2015 Gent, B 222 EU Scientific Community

Textile Industrials, 30 8th European Coating Congress 2015 UNITEX & UCG TEX‐SHIELD presentations (Ilse Garez) 3&4/09/2015 Gent, B 222 EU Scientific Community

New silicone formulations for textile 31 8th European Coating Congress 2015 Insa Lyon 03/09/2015 Gent, B Scientists, Industries 222 EU ‐ Worldwide hydrophobization

Digital finishing ‐ coating: From wet to dry ‐ Textile companies, 32 ESMA ‐ IJC‐ Congress 2015 UNITEX 7‐8/10/2015 Dusseldorf 102 Worldwide Lecture + leaflets designers, suppliers

Textile Industrials, Visitors fair, 4600 33 MoOD 2015 UCG & UNITEX TEX‐SHIELD poster on booth 8‐10/9/2015 Brussels, B Scientific Community, EU attendees Designers

Textile Industrials, Visitors fair, 4600 34 MoOD 2015 UCG Unitex TEX‐SHIELD leaflet + poster on booth 8‐10/09/2015 Brussels Scientific Community, EU attendees Designers

Industrialists, 35 TWI Open Day TWI TexShield ‐ Booth 22/10/2015 Cambridge 90 UK Scientists

36 Technological day Clubtex (UCG) TEX‐SHIELD leaflet /Booth 29/10/2015 Lille Scientists, Industries 70 EU

37 Technological day Clubtex (UCG) TEX‐SHIELD lecture of Ilse Garez 29/10/2015 Lille Scientists, Industries 70 EU

38 Technological day Insa Lyon TEX‐SHIELD lecture of François Ganachaud 29/10/2015 Lille Scientists, Industries 70 EU

35ème journée technologique : traitements Organisation of Conference on new Textile companies 39 UP‐tex des surfaces textiles : nouveaux outils de 29/10/2015 Tourcoing, France 80 EU fonctionnalisations of textiles and Scientists fonctionnalisations

Textile Industrials, Project description on congress website, 40 A+A CONGRESS Techtera 27 ‐ 30/10/2015 DUSSELDORF Scientific Community, 65000 EU‐Worldwide Poster, Flyers Designers

41 TEXSHIELD WORKSHOP BY TECHTERA Techtera Invitation plus TexShield flyer 01/10 ‐ 2/11/2015 LYON Scientists 3000 EU

The Chemistry of collaboration, Royal Industrialists, 42 TWI TexShield ‐ Booth 03/11/2015 Durham 50 UK Society of Chemistry Scientists

Superhydrophobicity on textile: a process 43 TEXSHIELD WORKSHOP BY TECHTERA Insa Lyon 03/11/2015 Lyon Scientists, Industries 10 France to replace PFCs

Oral presentation 44 TEXSHIELD WORKSHOP BY TECHTERA Techtera 03/11/2015 LYON Scientists 12 France Flyers

Textile companies, Emerging technologies: From wet to dry. research institutes, 45 ITMA 2015. IFATCC‐congress UNITEX 14/11/2015 Milan 86 Worldwide Lecture + leaflets associations, universities, suppliers

Over the course of the TEX-SHIELD project, through attendance and presentations at workshops, trade shows and conferences, based on the number of attendees at those events, the project has been exposed to 166,628 people within the scientific and textile industries.

3.4 Other dissemination activities The Association partners also sent out regular communiques to their members, for instance UP-TEX sent presentations on the TEX-SHIELD project across their database of 3000 textile end-users and scientists three times (20/1/2014, 19/09/2014, 19/01/2015). UP-TEX also generates a report for its members in which the TEX-SHIELD project was described (Appendix C).

Techtera had a similar approach in that the TEX-SHIELD project was discussed in their on-line blog and newsletters discussing the project were sent out to their members a number of times, Table 4.

Table 4: Editions of the Techtera newsletter discussing aspects of the TEX-SHIELD project and size of distribution

Newsletter edition Audience numbers July 2012 321 August 2012 1882 April 2015 1661 September 2015 1669 October 2015 1661

A copy of one of the early editions of the newsletter is included in Appendix C.

The partner DECCA, produced a set of cycling kit using coatings discussed within the TEX-SHIELD project. This kit, dressed on a manneqin, was kept on display within the DECCA offices and also taken and displayed at trade shows by DECCA, Unitex and UCG, Figure 2.

Figure 2: Cycling kit produced by DECCA sporting the TEX-SHIELD project logo.

4.0 Conclusions A variety of dissemination activities have been used to publicise and discuss the TEX-SHIELD project outside of the consortium. These have included web based activities, newsletters, presentations, workshops, conferences as well as trade shows.

It can only be approximated as to how many people the details of the project actually reached. Based on the data reported in this document this figure was in the region of 180,000 people.

Appendix A

TEX-SHIELD flyer

D6.4 Copyright © TEX-SHIELD Project Consortium 2016 Contact details: Project Coordinator Reduced fluorine content oil- Steve Kay NWTexnet Suite 405 and water-repellent treatments Communications House 514 Blackburn Road for technical textiles Bolton BL1 8NW United Kingdom

Tel: +44 (0)7958 338 969 E-mail: [email protected]

This project has received funding from the European Union’s Seventh Framework Programme for research, technological development and demonstration under grant agreement no. 315497 www.texshield-project.eu

Project partners:

www.texshield-project.eu TEXSHIELD is a project Approach supported by funding from the European Union’s Seventh Research partners are investigating a number of different routes to achieve Framework Programme. The the goal. The materials that are being developed use a combination of project features a consortium of multi-scale structure and surface energy to control repellency performance, companies from across Europe including: including four associations who represent hundreds of potential Optimisation of commercially available products and processes members that can benefit - coatings based on C6 and C4 fluorocarbons, modified topography from the work, five SMEs, who and 100% solid solutions represent knowledge of markets - UV and plasma curing to reduce energy and material consumption and trends, and three research organisations - TWI from the Development of novel, reduced-fluorine-content chemicals UK, INSA LYON from France and - water based siloxane systems with multi-scale silica functionalised University College of Gent in with novel low fluorine content Belgium. Development of fluorine-free treatments Functional textiles require superior stain and water repellency - novel coating solutions based on multi-scaled particles with oil and water repellent functionality, bonded directly to the textile surface Introduction

Textiles in applications such as personal protection, sportswear and furniture, for example, use the properties of fluorocarbons to provide the water and stain repellency required of these demanding applications. The fluorocarbons used are based on an eight-carbon chain and are often referred to as PFOS or PFOA.

Such materials are harmful and are known to accumulate in the environment. Consequently the Environmental Protection Agency has introduced a significant Cotton fabric treated with a TEXSHIELD product new use rule to restrict these materials, impacting their use and availability for textile applications.

The TEXSHIELD programme aims to provide the European textile market with alternative low-VOC material sets to replace the C8 fluorocarbons whilst maintaining performance in terms of repellency and durability.

Structure of a C8 fluorocarbon, perfluorooctanoic acid or PFOA Multi-scale texture of a TEXSHIELD product on a fabric weave TEX-SHIELD GA 315497

Appendix B

Presentation overview

D6.4 Copyright © TEX-SHIELD Project Consortium 2016 Reduced fluorine content oil and Funded from the European Union’s Seventh Framework water repellent treatments for Programme for research, technological development and demonstration. technical textiles Grant agreement no. GA315497 • Fluorocarbons are currently used to provide oil and water repellency for textiles in applications such as personal protection, sports ware and furniture.

• The use of such fluorocarbons is being restricted by the Environmental Protection Agency.

• The project objective is to provide alternative Research approaches: materials to replace these fluorocarbons, whilst 1. Optimisation of commercially maintaining repellency and durability. available products & process 2. Development of novel reduced fluorine content coatings 3. Development of fluorine free treatments Optimisation of commercially available textile products & processes Scanning of COMMERCIAL FLUOROCARBON SYSTEMS: ‐ observed repellent effects are C8 > C6 >> C4 ‐ PFOS/PFOA legislation  < 1 µg/m² C8 FC

Tested BOOSTING METHODS for C6/C4 fluorocarbons: ‐ Macro level: waxes (paraffins / fatty acid esters) ‐ Micro/nano level (roughness): hydrophobic nano‐silica; SMI/SMA nano‐ spounges; reactive β‐cyclodextrins

ALTERNATIVE RESEARCH ROUTES: A. On chemical level: sol/gel based hydrophobic/oleophobic products (air curing /LAD features) B. On technological level: Nanofics (Europlasma) as vacuum plasma fluorocarbon nano‐layer deposition Application methodologies + padding + spraying + foam + kiss roll + digital Future orientation profile Development of Novel reduced fluorine content coatings From superhydrophobicity… To oleophobic textiles

Coating of a water based siloxane system Production of novel monomers with with multi‐scale silica reduced fluorine content Superhydrophobic (contact angle > 150°) Post‐functionalization of treated fabrics and self‐cleaning (sliding angle < 10°) to increase their repellent behaviour properties and reach oleophobicity

Application methodologies Spraying or Padding or Kiss Roll Development of Novel fluorine free and water based coatings Water droplets on nanostructured fluorine free treated polyester fabric

Development, synthesis and characterisation of novel fluorine free coating solutions based on multi-scaled nano-particles with high repellent functionality, bonded directly to the textile surface

Technical R&D principle For further information contact:

Project Coordinator Steve Kay NWTexnet Suit 405 Communications House 514 Blackburn Road Bolton, BL1 8NW United Kingdom

Tel. +44 (0)7958 338 969 E‐mail: [email protected] TEX-SHIELD GA 315497

Appendix C

Association newsletters

D6.4 Copyright © TEX-SHIELD Project Consortium 2016 DACHCOM DACHCOM Wetting Agents and ondifficult substratequalities.“Create unforgettable impressions” withHANSAsilicones. additives offer anexcellentprintingperformance,highefficiency andbestreliability evenwiththelowestapplicationamounts based onorgano-modifiedsilicones,flawlessprintingresults formaximumqualitydemandscanbeachieved.CHTsilicone rotogravure Withoursubstratewettingagents,surfaceadditivesanddefoamingsystems inksaswellvarnishes. CHT R.BeitlichGmbHhasexpandeditsassortmentofspecialsiliconeproducts witharangeofadditivesforflexoand Silicone additiveS CHT BELGIUMN.V. |President Kennedypark 39|8500KortrijkTel 003256203114|Fax0119www.cht.com |[email protected] |

LeveLLing Agents/s urf A ce Additives makethe difference | d efoA mers |

HydropH obic Agents

Toelating - gesloten verpakking 9800 Deinze 1 - 3/336 Verantwoordelijke uitgever : prof. dr. M. Van Parys Erkenningsnummer P708505 afgiftekantoor 9800Deinze tweemaandelijks november nr. 4/2014 België -Belgique 9800 DEINZE1 3 /3219

P.B. TechTextiel 02_2005 27-04-2005 12:28 Pagina 54

DigiFun: Digital micro-‐disposal of functionalities on textiles (clothing, interior, protective textiles) Prof. Dr. M. Van Parys*, I. Garez, F. Godefroidt University College Gent - TO2C De Voeght F., Claes R., Mannekens E., Deroover G. ChemStream [email protected] The main project objecEve is to develop a generic digital technology for micro-‐disposal of funcEonal ﬂuids on texEle substrates intended for clothing, including sportswear and workwear, protecEve and interior texEles. The main focus is on the development of novel UV-‐curable (100%) superhydrophobic inks for protecEve (water-‐ UV-sources-LEDs barrier) end-‐uses and a a new set of non-‐yellowing Digital Jets other curing systems Word lid van onze vereniging door invisible Fluo-‐inkjet inks. The printed image is totally invisible at daylight but it becomes brightly contact op te nemen met het visible when shining with a black light. These new inks can be applied in all kinds of sustainable digital workﬂows, for instance for the purpose of tracking & tracing, anE-‐counterfeiEng, etc. InteresEng is the never ending amount of images and text that can be digitally printed, and the relaEve simplicity of the technique.

The new funcEonal inkjet inks are designed and New Functional UV-curable DP-inks secretariaat engineered to be jeVable using high-‐speed piezo print heads (Xaar, Dimatex, Seiko…) and to meet the desired funcEonal requirements during the long NEW FUNCTIONAL INKJET INKS: CUSTOMIZED FUNCTIONAL INKS: life cycle of the end products. The digital micro-‐ • Tailor-‐made and fiVed for high speed print disposal approach will have the ability of full 1. Superhydropobic inks heads (Xaar, Seiko, Dimatex...) coverage or exact localiza>on and pa?erning of the -‐ Barrier proper>es against liquids/ • Instant, in-‐line UV-‐curing using air-‐cooled aimed func>onali>es. water LED-‐systems (wavelenght ca. 395 nm) 2. Invisible Fluo-‐ink The project aims also the development of a • No need for special pre-‐ and posVreatment -‐ An>counterfei>ng, tracking, tracing modular prinEng system, which could be scaled-‐up of texEle on industrial level. • Less dependant of texEle material, Both inks will be UV-‐curable based inks Mevr. inclusive heat-‐sensiEve materials The digital technology is seen as a straight (100%) consisEng of: Well selected ingredients: less harmful for Karina WAGENEIRE replacement for convenEonal padding or coaEng • processes. Its unique characterisEcs enable it to fit skin • Monomers as reacEve diluents into different supply chains, become integrated • Because the UV-‐ink does not contain any • AcEve ingredients Hendrikslaar 12 • 9080 Lochristi with other processes and address market needs volaEle solvent, it avoids environmental Selected photo-‐iniEator system previously unfulfilled. This approach fits perfectly in • problems of VOCs, which are increasingly Tel. 32 (0)9 355.23.88 the Euratex Flagship iniEaEve and roadmap to a • Other processing addiEves... subject to legal restricEons. resource efficient Europe, boosEng and enhancing Fax 32 (0)9 356.78.80 economic performance and compeEEveness while E-mail unitex.kw@scarlet.be reducing use of resources (water, energy, chemicals) or turning major wet texEle in to dry, Website www.unitex.be energy-‐efficient processes.

New funcEonal inkjet inks are curable with air-‐ cooled LED-‐systems, operaEng at 395 nm. Superhydrophobic inkjet inks -‐ contact angle ≥ 140 ° Invisible ﬂuo inkjet inks for

Tweemaandelijks tijdschrift

voor de textielkaderleden

Revue bimensuelle

pour les cadres de l’industrie textile

3de editie Digital Textile Congress ‘The Change is clear: from Analog to Officieel orgaan van UNITEX v.z.w. Digital’ georganiseerd door UNITEX in samenwerking met Hogeschool Gent-TO C was een succesformule! Nationale groepering 2 van kaderleden uit de textielindustrie Organe officiel d’ UNITEX a.s.b.l. Het congres werd georganiseerd op 4-5 september jl. en vond plaats in het auditorium D van de Hogeschool Gent. Beide dagen werden hoogdagen Groupement national voor onze organisatie. Het congres werd bijgewoond door meer dan 265 des cadres de l’industrie textile deelnemers, met opvallend een grote aantal buitenlandse deelnemers komende van verschillende continenten. Deze conferentie had de ambitie Verantwoordelijke uitgever: om de deelnemers te informeren, signaleren en kennis te laten maken met Editeur responsable: de laatste ontwikkelingen op het vlak van de verschillende componenten prof. dr. M. Van Parys van het digitale drukgebeuren (lees: inkjet inkten, hardware, software en textielmaterialen). Ook een belangrijk luik van het congres handelde Administratie, redactie: over recente ontwikkelingen en onderzoek in excellerende binnen- en Administration, rédaction: buitenlandse onderzoekscentra. Behalve technologische aspecten kwamen Secretariaat UNITEX, ook marktontwikkelingen, nieuwe business modellen, economische en mevr. Karina Wageneire ecologische aspecten aan bod. Hendrikslaar 12 - 9080 Lochristi Naast de kwalitatieve technische lezingen (totaal 24) was de agenda van het Tel.: +32 (0)9 355.23.88 congres ook bedoeld om de deelnemers te voorzien van een uitgebreide Fax: +32 (0)9 356.78.80 beoordeling van de verschillende aspecten van digitale technologieën waarbij naast printing ook het functionaliseren en coaten met digitale technologieën aan bod kwamen. De formele presentaties, de informele netwerksessies K.B.C. 442-7639321-19 en demonstraties op digitale printers van o.a. functionele inkten op de verschillende standen droegen bij tot een unieke, interactieve omgeving Hoofdredacteur: voor de deelnemers. Op basis van de vele positieve reacties tijdens en na Rédacteur en chef: het congres kan men het congres werkelijk geslaagd worden noemen, een prof. dr. M. Van Parys succes dat ook internationale organisaties en tijdschriften niet is ontgaan. E-mail: [email protected] Het volgende UNITEX-nummer zal hierover uitvoerig worden ingegaan. De grote belangstelling zowel op nationaal als internationaal niveau, illustreert Advertentieverkoop / Publicité: de continu groeiende belangstelling voor dit actueel thema. Het digitale Secretariaat UNITEX, gebeuren is zeker een belangrijke economische component waarvan het mevr. Karina Wageneire belang op korte termijn nog verder exponentieel zal aangroeien. Met dit Hendrikslaar 12 - 9080 Lochristi congres hebben we dit aspect in de eerste plaats willen uitdragen en hebben Tel.: +32 (0)9 355.23.88 we tevens innoverende bedrijven en onderzoekscentra willen promoten naar Fax: +32 (0)9 356.78.80 het buitenland toe. E-mail: [email protected] Het succes van een dergelijke grote manifestatie is echter enkel mogelijk www.unitex.be dankzij de gewaardeerde bijdrage van de vele, boeiende sprekers, alsook de bedrijven die ons daadwerkelijk gesteund hebben. Dank ook aan de Hogeschool Gent voor het gratis ter beschikking stellen van de infrastructuur. Drukkerij Bredero n.v. Mogelijks volgt er een 4de editie in 2016. Brusselsesteenweg 188 B-9090 Melle Prof. Dr. Marc Van Parys Tel.: +32 (0)9 252.32.32 Voorzitter UNITEX Fax: +32 (0)9 252.44.13 E-mail: [email protected] www.drukbredero.be

1 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 InIn ditdit nummer... nummer... DOSSIER BEDRIJVENNIEUWS - ZS-MICROSILVER kleine Partikel mit großer Wirkung 4 - Creating Confidence - Securing Competitive Advantages BRÜCKNER and MATESA are the - Oerlikon Barmag’s EvoTape, the (r)evolution of best examples 30 tape production 6 - Dyneema® will be used by Republic of Korea WETENSCHAPPELIJK NIEUWS (South Korea) army for multi-purpose body armour program 31 - Environmentally and durable oil and water repellence finish on technical textiles - Part 1 8 - Oerlikon Neumag’s new staple fibre plant for the production of smaller lot sizes 31 - Fully Renewable Biocomposites And Translucent Concrete 11 - SSM Giudici conclude a larger order 32 - Clariant’s Exolit® OP 560 confirmed as safer - TOSHIBA TEC Inkjet Business Group targets flame retardant for PU foam 14 the label and packaging market 33 - Picanol’s training centre and test area in Ieper PRODUCTENNIEUWS inaugurated by minister president Geert Bourgeois 33 - Archroma entices with inspiring colours and - Van de Wiele invests $5 million in Chattanooga USA 34 ecology and economy focus 15 ALGEMEEN - Big Impact zet met zijn wereldprimeur de - C&A Foundation steunde Pink Ribbon met gordijnenmarkt op zijn kop 16 exclusieve draagtas voor boezemvriendinnen 34 - Brückner’s innovative and energy-efficient - Dr. Helmut Mälzer of European Bedding Industries’ system solutions 16 Association, winner of the 2014 EBIA Award 35 - DILO-Isomation : even web mass for reduced - Een land zonder industrie is geen land meer! 36 fibre consumption 18 - Economische ontwikkeling in de textielindustrie 38 - DyStar’s new blue shades for denim 20 - Update textielgrondstoffenprijzen tweede - EFI brings Fiery Value to new Xerox Color kwartaal 2014 38 C60/C70 Printer 20 - Vrijhandelsakkoord tussen Zwitserland en China - The Herbold Plastcompactor 21 van toepassing sinds 1 juli 2014 39 - Monforts’ new modular, interchangeable coating - OEKO-TEX® introduces MySTeP for Sustainably system 21 Managed Textile Supply Chains 41 - Oerlikon Neumag’s technologies for an efficient - Is energy efficiency challenging or profitable? technical nonwoven production 22 Solutions for the European textile & clothing - Unleashed productivity with Autocoro 8 from industry 41 Schlafhorst changes the market 23 - DeGroteBedtest.be doet Vlamingen nadenken - PreciFX et Speedster FX de Schlafhorst sont en over hun slaapcomfort 42 très grande forme 25 - News from Textiles Intelligence 43 - SSM announce their brand-new machine for - VDMA Textile Machinery: graduate engineers technical yarns 26 stand out and take off 44 - The yarn tells the story : reading fabric - MyMachine Vlaanderen: 400 kleine uitvinders appearance with USTER testing systems 27 aan de slag 44 - With Van de Wiele : fine, finer, finest … 28 - Lectra wins EY’s 2014 International Company - Verdol’s LTC CY twisting and cabling machine 29 of the Year Award 45 - Centexbel News 46 - Nieuws uit de vakgroep textielkunde 48

Het volgende UNITEX-dossiernummer zal handelen over het thema: The factory of the future

2 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 3 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 ZS-MICROSILVER kleine Partikel mit großer Wirkung Bereits seit Jahrtausenden ist die antimikrobielle Nach dem Aufkommen von Antibiotika zur Bekämpfung Wirkung von Silber bekannt. Damals verwendet in von Krankheiten und Bakterien ließ die Bedeutung Form von Münzen in Silberkrügen oder Milchkannen von Silber in diesem Bereich stark nach. Jedoch zur Konservierung von Lebensmitteln, Schmuck, greifen die unterschiedlichen Antibiotika zumeist nur Zahnfüllungen oder Silberbesteck, stehen uns heute an einem bestimmten Punkt an, während Silber auf dank der unterschiedlichen Herstellungsformen und den verschiedenen Wirkmechanismen beruht und Verarbeitungstechniken ganz neue Möglichkeiten offen damit wesentlich effektiver wirken kann. Desweiteren die es erlauben die positive Wirkung des Silbers gegen werden gegen Silber im Gegensatz zu Antibiotika keine Bakterien und andere Mikroorganismen zu nutzen. Resistenzen ausgebildet, was es auch gegen Erreger Als beschichtete Oberflächen in Kühlschränken oder wie z.B. MRSA (multiresistenter Staphylococcus aureus) anderen Haushaltsgeräten ist Silber schon seit längerem einem in der Öffentlichkeit bekannten „Krankenhauskeim“ im Einsatz. Weiterhin wird es inzwischen bereits seit Jahren einsetzbar macht. auch in der Textilindustrie eingesetzt. Dies geschieht Je größer nun die Oberfläche der metallischen in Form von Partikeln innerhalb von synthetischen Silberpartikel ist desto mehr Silberionen können in Fasern oder zusätzlicher nachträglicher Ausrüstungen/ Summe gebildet und abgegeben werden. Das bedeutet, Beschichtungen. Allgemein sind antimikrobiell dass die Wirksamkeit bei Systemen mit möglichst großer ausgerüstete Textilien seit Jahren auf dem Vormarsch. Oberfläche dementsprechend auch stärker ausfällt. Dies resultiert einerseits aus dem Wandel der Einsatzfelder Daraus resultierte der Trend möglichst kleine Silberpartikel von Textilien, die einen Schutz vor Bakterien, Pilzen und mit einer großen Oberfläche als antimikrobiell wirkende Viren verlangen, wie z.B. Geo- oder Medizintextilien. Substanz einzusetzen. Andererseits wird dem steigenden Hygienebedürfnis vieler Verbraucher Rechnung getragen und antimikrobiell Nanotechnologie ausgerüstete Textilien im Bereich Bekleidungs- und Durch die Kombination von Silber und der Sporttextilien sowie im Heimtextilbereich eingesetzt. Nanotechnologie ergeben sich insbesondere aufgrund Dabei finden verschiedene Substanzen Anwendung: des hohen Oberflächen/Volumen-Verhältnisses ganz organische Wirkstoffe: neue Materialeigenschaften. Allein das mikrobiologisch - PHMB, PHMG, wirksame Volumen nimmt anteilig zum Gesamtvolumen - Chitosan, des Materials mit abnehmender Partikelgröße durch die - Benzisothiazolidine, Erhöhung der Gesamtoberfläche signifikant zu. Dadurch - Chlorierte Diphenylether (z.B. Triclosan), entstehen Vorteile wie eine deutliche Materialersparnis, anorganische Wirkstoffe: da wesentlich geringere Mengen benötigt werden um - Silber, gleichwertige Effekte zu erzielen. Dies ist besonders - Silbersalze (z.B.Silbernitrat, Silberchlorid), im Hinblick auf nachhaltige Entwicklung ein wichtiger - Metallsalze, Faktor. Ein weiterer Aspekt ist die schnellere Wirkung, - Iod/Iodid. da durch die größere Oberfläche mehr Silberionen gebildet und an die Umgebung abgegeben werden. Silber und seine Wirkung Weiterhin ist es möglich, feinere Partikel zusätzlichen Silber kann in drei unterschiedlichen Formen als Anwendungsgebieten zugänglich zu machen. Ein antimikrobiell wirkende Substanz eingesetzt werden. Beispiel wäre hier das Integrieren von Silberpartikeln in Dabei unterteilt man in metallisches Silber, Ionen und synthetische Fasern, was nur bei der entsprechenden Silbersalze. Diese Varianten können in Form verschiedener Partikelgröße möglich ist. Partikelgrößen bis hin zu Nanopartikeln vorhanden sein. Die oben genannten Vorteile führten zu einem Boom von Mögliche Aufmachungsformen sind dabei die sogenannte Nanosilberprodukten seit Beginn des neuen Jahrtausends, Lösung worunter lösliche Silbersalze, z.B. Silbernitrat der in den vergangenen Jahren durch verschiedene fallen und die Dispersion, welche Nanosilber, kolloidales potentielle Risiken bei Nanoprodukten gestoppt wurde. Silber und Suspension beinhaltet. Die mikrobiologische Problematisch hierbei ist der Umstand, dass Nanopartikel Wirkung des Silbers beruht auf der Bildung von und deren Wirkung auf den Menschen noch nicht Silberionen, die aus Silberoxid an der Oberfläche ausreichend erforscht sind. So werden Nanopartikel der Partikel entstehen. Dazu sind Luftsauerstoff und verdächtigt durch ihre geringe Größe hautgängig zu sein, Feuchtigkeit aus der Umgebung notwendig, welche auf also durch die Poren in der Haut in den Körper wandern zu die konstant dicke, von der Partikelgröße unabhängige, können. In welchem Ausmaß dies wirklich geschieht und Oxidschicht treffen. Diese Silberionen binden an die welche Auswirkungen es auf den Körper hat, ist jedoch negativ geladenen Bereiche der Proteine einer Zelle noch nicht geklärt. So wurde z.B. bereits von Seiten des und zeigen dann mehrere Wirkmechanismen. Zu diesen Europäischen Parlaments eine Deklarationspflicht für die gehören im Wesentlichen: Verwendung von Nanopartikeln in Kosmetikprodukten - die Störung lebenswichtiger Funktionen durch gefordert. Inaktivierung von Transmembrantransporten, - die Inaktivierung von Enzymen in der Zelle, ZS-MICROSILVER - die Zerstörung der Bakterien-DNA, wodurch verhindert Um dieses Risiko zu vermeiden und dennoch die Vorteile wird, dass die Bakterien sich replizieren können. von Silber in der Textilindustrie nutzen zu können, hat

4 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 die Zschimmer & Schwarz Mohsdorf GmbH & Co KG den gewünschten zu erzielenden Effekten kann dieser ein neues System namens ZS-MICROSILVER entwickelt Binder oder weitere Additive variieren. So ist es möglich, welches den Forderungen der Biozidverordnung EG neben der Waschpermanenz noch weitere Eigenschaften Nr.1451/2007 unterliegt. Dabei handelt es sich um eine wie z.B. eine Hydrophilie zu erzeugen um den spezielle Formulierung, bei der Silberpartikel verwendet Anforderungen der einzelnen Endanwendungen gerecht werden, welche eine durchschnittliche Größe von 8-10 µm zu werden. Mit Hilfe der entsprechenden Komponenten aufweisen, also Mikropartikel sind. Durch ein besonderes zusätzlich zum ZS-MICROSILVER war es so möglich, bei patentiertes Herstellungsverfahren wird das Silber in eine Mikrofaserwischtüchern, welche für den Haushaltsbereich einmalige Struktur gebracht, welche einem Schwamm verwendet werden, die notwendige Hydrophilie sowie oder einer Koralle ähnelt (Bild 1 und 2 : Silberpartikel Waschpermanenzen von bis zu fünfzig Wäschen bei mit Korallenstruktur aus dem Produkt ZS-MICROSILVER). 60° C (siehe Bild 4 : antibakterielle Wirksamkeit bezogen Diese mikroporöse Struktur erlaubt es nun, dass die auf die Waschpermanenz bei Haushaltswäschen) zu Silberpartikel in Mikrogröße vorliegen, jedoch trotzdem erzeugen. eine außergewöhnlich große Oberfläche von bis zu 5 m²/g besitzen, im Vergleich zu normalen Mikropartikeln Anwendung in Kosmetikartikeln und medizinischen mit ca. 0,3-0,5 m²/g. Durch diese vergrößerte Oberfläche Produkten ist es möglich, deutlich mehr Silberionen auszubilden Das Silber welches als Basis zur Herstellung des ZS- als es bei normalen Partikeln der Fall wäre (Bild 3 : ZS- MICROSILVER dient wird bereits seit vielen Jahren MICROSILVER appliziert mit einem Bindersystem auf hauptsächlich im Kosmetiksektor sowie im medizinischen PES). Bereich eingesetzt. Wichtige Anwendungsfelder Nutzt man reines metallisches Silber in elementarer sind dabei spezielle Cremes, Zahnpasten, Salben, Form, so sieht man sich besonders in Nassprozessen Wundauflagen, Verbandsmaterialien oder Katheter. Im wie es in der Textilindustrie an der Tagesordnung ist Bereich Hautpflege, in dem dieses spezielle Silber seit besonderen Herausforderungen ausgesetzt, da das 2005 Anwendung findet, veranschaulicht Bild 5 am besten Silber aufgrund seiner hohen Dichte und dem damit die hervorragende Wirksamkeit. Dargestellt ist ein Arm verbundenen Gewicht eines Partikels sehr leicht absinkt. eines Neurodermitispatienten nach den unterschiedlichen Das größte Problem ist es also, die Partikel auch in Behandlungszeiträumen mit einer speziellen Salbe, die einer wässrigen Flotte so lange in Schwebe zu halten, das Silber enthält welches zur Produktion von ZS- dass sie gleichmäßig auf einem Textil appliziert werden MICROSILVER genutzt wird. Bereits nach vierzehn Tagen können. Da Silber selbst keine Affinität zur Faser ist eine deutliche Verbesserung des Hautbildes sichtbar. besitzt, muss es mit Hilfe eines Binders auf die Faser Nach 28 Tagen ist keinerlei Hautveränderung mehr zu aufgebracht werden. Abhängig vom Einsatzbereich und erkennen.

Continuous Coating

Coating, Drying and Laminating - the basic functions of the «KTF-S»

It doesn‘t pay to use a production machine when producing small lengths The modular design of the continuous coating system «KTF-S» is the cost-efficient answer We will show you to achieve the optimal performance from the «KTF-S»

Market leaders are using Mathis technology

5 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 Zusammenfassung Die antimikrobielle Ausrüstung mit Silberprodukten erlangt aufgrund der hohen und vielfältigen Wirksamkeit der Systeme eine immer größere Bedeutung in der Textilindustrie. Wegen der noch nicht vollständig erforschten Risiken, die die Verwendung von Nanosilber mit sich bringt, stellt die Partikelform und -größe ein wichtiges Kriterium zur Verwendung solcher Produkte dar. Mit ZS-MICROSILVER gibt es nun ein Produkt am Markt, welches aufgrund der speziellen Struktur und der damit verbundenen großen Oberfläche die Vorteile des Silbers besonders effektiv nutzbar macht. Aufgrund der langjährigen Verwendung und den damit verbundenen Bild 2 Langzeittests und Zertifikaten dieser speziellen Silberpartikel im medizinischen und kosmetischen Bereich, empfiehlt sich der Einsatz von ZS-MICROSILVER besonders für Textilien in diesen Einsatzgebieten. Dennoch ist es so konzipiert, dass es auch in anderen Segmenten wie z.B. dem Heimtextilbereich erfolgreich eingesetzt werden kann. Bild 3 Agent for Benelux: Koehl & Borkelmans nv Torenstraat 3 BE-3680 MAASEIK Tel.: +32 89 36 50 50 Fax: +32 89 36 50 59 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.koehl-borkelmans.be

Bild 4

Bild 1 Bild 5 Oerlikon Barmag’s EvoTape, the (r)evolution of tape production by Susanne Beyer and Jens Weinhold

The technology used for manufacturing tapes has making criterion for investors in view of ever-growing remained the same for many years now. Although minor pressure on margins. Traditionally, Oerlikon Barmag optimizations have been achieved with regards to the extrusion systems are high-end with regards to the production speed, there have been no quantum leaps quality of the systems, the process and the yarn. To in the technology. For this reason, there has been very this end, the focus during the development of a new little replacement investment over the years. systems concept for tapes was on production costs and However, the broad range of applications for tape energy consumption. yarns ensures constant growth, hence making new investments due to expanding capacities the norm. The Efficient tape extrusion with the EvoTape concept application possibilities for extruded tapes range from With the EvoTape, a process for manufacturing tapes carpet backing fabrics, textile packaging via agricultural has been developed that has literally revolutionized the textiles all the way through to the increasingly covered process used to date: depending on the configuration, area of geotextiles. the systems output can be increased by up to threefold. In addition to systems and yarn quality, the operating The EvoTape operates with a cold pre-drawing. In expenses (OPEX) are a very considerable decision- the subsequent, second drawing stage, the tapes are

6 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 ‘lighter’; they take on the heat from the hot-air oven backing generates the familiarly high and, above more easily. These two drawing stages result in superior all, homogeneous tape quality at simultaneously process stability, reaching the same tenacity values with considerably higher process speeds. The EvoTape offers higher speeds or superior properties at the same speed. a process speed of 400 m/min : by contrast, extrusion The splitting of the drawing process also ensures a systems for carpet backing used to date operate at low overall draw ratio. As the cut width of the overall a speed of 320 m/min, while systems manufactured drawing is defined, this is also reduced. Consequently, before 2010 produce at just 180-280 m/min. To this more tapes can be manufactured which, in addition end, the considerably superior productivity of the new to the higher process speed, increase the system’s EvoTape system in conjunction with the WinTape take- output. Overall, the specific energy consumption per kg up unit provides yarn producers with a significant of output is therefore considerably reduced. expansion in capacity without substantial additional space requirements. Cost advantages as a result of greater process In this application configuration, the energy savings stability amount to up to 50 % compared to equipment A further argument for the new EvoTape concept is its manufactured during the 1980s and 1990s, which is superior process stability : the changed process reduces quite permissible for a system lifespan of thirty years tape breakages compared to conventional processes. and more. Furthermore, the lower temperature transfer, for example Baler twine during hot-air drawing, simplifies additional string-up of torn tapes. The potential is particularly apparent in the case of baler twine : here, it is – in addition to higher process speeds WinTape – more output, less waste – above all the reduction of the overall draw ratio that is Higher speeds reduce the package running time. This, significant. With this, it is possible to virtually double the in turn, requires an automatic winder. The automatic output compared to established processes. WinTape precision winder supplements the EvoTape While the titres of carpet backing fabrics lie between 300 concept in the take-up stage. Electronic crossing angle(s) ensure(s) perfect package build with optimum quality for the downstream further processing. As the tapes dwell in the yarn guide during package transfer, automatic take- up of folded tapes is possible. Further plus point: with two parking positions for full packages, the system configuration for carpet backing fabrics can operate for 24 hours without package transfer, hence Bringing textiles to life simplifying shift work. Furthermore, identical package running lengths, which are common in an automatic take-up concept, reduce waste. Operating the WinTape in conjunction with the EvoTape systems opens up further benefits offered by the new precision winder : production waste occurring during package transfer can be directly routed back to the extruder.

EvoTape concept is available for many processes Following the successful market launch for manufacturing tapes for carpet backing fabrics, the EvoTape process is now also revealing its strengths for other products. The focus of the development work over the past few months has been on the verification of speed potentials and a lower overall draw ratio for further products : to this end, the new concept currently offers solutions for the manufacture of carpet backing, agricultural textiles and geotextiles. WWW.DEVAN.NET Carpet backing The system configuration for carpet

7 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 and 1500 dtex, the titres for baler twines are 20’000 dtex coordinated components: here, high extrusion process and higher. Instead of tape widths of between 0.9 and speeds can only be efficiently realized with an automatic 2.5 mm and thickness ranging from 35 to 45 µm, tapes winder. Conversely, although connecting an automatic with widths of between 20 and 90 mm and thicknesses winder to a standard extrusion system makes sense, it is of between 75 and 100 µm can be manufactured. The unable to reveal its entire performance spectrum. tapes are profiled or fibrillated and are twisted in the In terms of tape quality, the EvoTape & WinTape downstream process and wound onto tubeless packages. combination makes no compromises : the familiarly The focus of the process is on high tenacities for the superlative product quality promises tape manufacturers yarn and high tenacities for the knots when tying off the a position within the high-end market. bales. To achieve the high tenacities desired, the tapes are drawn at a ratio of 1:12 in currently common standard processes. The high draw ratios mean that in the case of products with 70’000 dtex, for instance, only three to four tapes can be run in parallel on the system. With the EvoTape, these draw ratios can be reduced to just the one seventh or one eighth. Lower draw ratios simultaneously also mean cutting narrower tapes, hence allowing more tapes to fit on the godets. The output of the system is virtually doubled in conjunction with the speed increase from 250 to 350 m/min : from 500 kg/h (common market standard) to up to 1000 kg/h (EvoTape / WinTape concept). To this end, the new systems concept saves space, handling and – above all – energy. Energy consumption of just 0.4 kWh/kg is a further decisive argument for the EvoTape / WinTape solution. Picture 1: With more than 1000 installed extrusion systems across the globe, Geotextiles Oerlikon Barmag is the market leader in high-end tape systems. And the EvoTape process also showcases its advantages for geotextiles and agricultural textiles. Here, high tenacities are achieved with lower overall draw ratios as well. For some applications, the addition of LDPE as a ‘drawing aid’ can be dispensed with, additionally securing a reduction in raw material costs for this process.

EvoTape & WinTape – the perfect duo In an age in which investment decisions are also influenced by sustainability considerations, the EvoTape / WinTape concept has set a new standard. Greater output Picture 2: Electronic crossing angles ensure perfect package build with optimum with the reduced deployment of energy and personnel, quality for the downstream processing. less waste and a faster return-on-investment (ROI) make the new tape system from the Chemnitz-based Oerlikon Agent for Belgium: Barmag extrusion technology experts a real alternative. LE CLAIR & MEERT nv Yves Le Clair With the EvoTape / WinTape duo, the tape market Deinzesteenweg 25 - 9770 KRUISHOUTEM now has a concept that is also a prudent replacement Tel.: 09 333 88 88 - Fax: 09 333 88 99 investment as a result of its immense efficiency. The E-mail: [email protected] concept only unveils its full potential as a duo of perfectly Website: www.leclairmeert.be

Research for SME Associations Environmentally and durable oil and water repellence finish on technical textiles - Part 1 European SME-association project (NWTEX, UNITEX, Up-Tex, Techtera) (2012-2015) Prof. Dr. M. Van Parys, I. Garez, F. Godefroidt, T. Van Hove*

1. Context of perfluorocarbons (PFCs) into the fabrics, due to their In the current market, the well-known brands of textiles good water repellence properties. Unfortunately, the best are usually protected with a fluorocarbon based treatment performing PFCs, known as C8 (due to the 8 carbon to provide high durability and a stain repellent finish. The atoms in their backbone chain), also raise significant most common treatments are based on impregnation health and environmental concerns, by being very

8 WETENSCHAPPELIJKE PUBLICATIES UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 stable in the environment (bio-accumulative). Research 2. Health issues addressed by TEX-SHIELD has indicated that they are possible carcinogens and, The current fluoropolymer-based stain repellent consequently, eight carbon PFCs (PFC-C8) are currently treatments are known to pose significant health subject to high regulatory pressure. The products will be concerns. PFCs are either produced/manufactured by banned end 2015 (?). electro fluorination or telomerisation, which give out Various alternatives have been considered. Shorter chain unintended by- products of perfluorooctane sulphonates materials such as those based on C6 and C4 chemistry (PFOS) and perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA respectively). are more rapidly degraded in the environment, but in the PFOA has the molecular formula C8F1502H while PFOS longer term any PFC material may have potential issues is C8HF17O3S. During service life, the PFC treatment is with sustainability and ecological performance. gradually leached from the fabric, and decomposes to PFOA and PFOS. Both PFOA and PFOS are very stable Long-chain PFC Short-chain PFC in the environment and, hence, are a significant ecological (C8-Chemistry) (C6-chemistry) threat, as the levels reached in higher organisms (including Very persistent in environment Less persistent in the people) can become significant. Consequently, the U.S. environment Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and some of the Bio-accumulative Not bio-accumulative biggest fluoropolymer manufacturers have cooperated Long half-time in human body Less accumulation o-in human in studies and have collected and shared their findings. body The following results have been highlighted from this Very toxic Expected to be far less harmful research about PFOA and PFOS. They are very stable to human health or environment in the environment, so they do not readily degrade. at environmentally relevant Once they enter the human body they are eliminated concentrations very slowly. This means that they remain in the body for Additionally, neither the shorter chain PFCs nor the current relatively long periods of time: the half-life in humans is silicone- based alternatives have been developed to a about 4.5 years. They cause adverse effects in laboratory point where they deliver the necessary performance to animals that have been given high doses over a long meet the industry’s durability and repellence standards. period of time. The Biocencentration Factor (rainbow Consequently, we, the Textile industrial community, need trout) of different products is given in table 1. an alternative to PFC-C8 to be developed, which is EPA classifies PFOA as carcinogenic in animals and some durable and equally performs. To emend the solution will developmental toxicity studies in rats resulted also in require both chemical and process expertise beyond that death1. In terms of regulation in Europe, the Environment available in our community and, consequently, we are Agency Wales in the UK assessed the risks to health and seeking funding to employ experts in the field to develop the environment from PFOS. PFOS show to cause death a solution. in both rats and monkeys at doses of 6 and 4.5 mg/ kg per day respectively in repeat dose 90 days toxicity The main purpose of the TEX-SHIELD project is to studies. Health concerns coming from the use of PFOS address this by: and PFOA chemicals have found significant interest also • Eliminating problems with C8 PFCs’ by-products among different countries of the European Union such as associated with textile treatments. Denmark, Germany, Spain and Italy. • Providing a cost-effective alternative treatment with To date, significant adverse effects have not been found in durable anti- soiling/anti-staining characteristics the general human population. However, perfluorooctane • Reducing the total fluorine content in the treatment sulphonates have been recognised to be bio-persistent, by introduction of new sol-gel derived additives in bio-accumulative and toxic, which has led to restrictions the form of nanoparticles or inorganic-organic hybrid being adopted in the market in regards to the use of networks PFOS in the UK. Studies have been carried out in order • Demonstrating performance on a representative scale, to assess the health hazards of the workers within the with regards to key technical parameters including eight major fluoropolymer manufacturers (eg 3M, Dupont, soil resistance, abrasion resistance, cleaning cycle Arkema). High levels of fluorochemicals like PFOA appear resistance to be a risk factor for cancers of the male reproductive • Creating additional advantageous functions such as system. Furthermore, medical studies recorded significant antistatic and antimicrobial characteristics to improve increases in the thyroid-stimulating hormone (TSH) with stability against mechanical, chemical impacts. consequent altered thyroid response in workers with Developing flexible and versatile solutions for a higher PFOA blood levels. Studies have also shown broad range of textile supports different in structure that PFOA alters reproductive hormones in the male, (woven, knitted) and basic fibres (natural, synthetic or causing increased levels of oestrogen and abnormal mixtures). testosterone regulation. PFOA has also long been known • Developing a solution with a low ecological footprint, to damage the immune system and in the most recent based on REACH-proof chemicals and taking in to study scientists learned that exposures to PFOA early account safety and health issues. in life are more harmful than in adulthood. In summary, • Providing a full Life Cycle Analysis (including washability toxicological studies have demonstrated a range of cycle) and assessment of techno- economic benefits, adverse health effects due to PFOS and PFOA, these via benchmarking against current products. effects include hepatotoxicity, developmental toxicity, • Providing the necessary technological transfer and immunotoxicity, hormonal effects and carcinogenicity. training via SME associations to ensure awareness During the project focus will be on alternative, less and take up throughout the EC. toxic and harmful products such as C6 (PFHS) and C4

9 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 WETENSCHAPPELIJKE PUBLICATIES However, perfluorooctane sulphonates have been recognised to be bio-persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic, which has led to restrictions being adopted in the market in regards to the use of PFOS in the UK. Studies have been carried out in order to assess the health hazards of the workers within the eight major fluoropolymer manufacturers (eg 3M, Dupont, Arkema). High levels of fluorochemicals like PFOA appear to be a risk factor for cancers of the male reproductive system. Furthermore, medical studies recorded significant increases in the thyroid- stimulating hormone (TSH) with consequent altered thyroid response in workers with higher PFOA blood levels. Studies have also shown that PFOA alters reproductive hormones in the male, causing increased levels of oestrogen and abnormal testosterone regulation. PFOA has also long been known to damage the immune system and in the most recent study scientists learned that exposures to PFOA early in life are more harmful than in adulthood. In summary, toxicological studies have demonstrated a range of adverse health effects due to PFOS and PFOA, these effects include hepatotoxicity, developmental toxicity, immunotoxicity, hormonal effects and carcinogenicity.

During the project focus will be on alternative, less toxic and harmful products such as C6 (PFHS) and(PFBS) C4 (PFBS) chemistry chemistry and and others.others. Some Some data data conce concerningrning fluorochemicals research are given partners, validate the results of the project by in table 1-2. fluorochemicals are given in table 1-2. field trials at the demonstrators and disseminate the Table 1: BCF-factor of different fluorochemicals final project results to our members. The SME textile Table 1: BCF-factor of different fluorochemicals printing/dyeing participants in this project will provide the technical requirements and contribute to the research and demonstration activities. They will benefit from the results through advanced knowledge of the available solutions and consequent early implementation. SNano is an SME in the field of nanomaterials, who will ensure the manufacturability of the solution and benefit by exploiting the knowledge gained in advanced sol-gel systems. The delivery of the necessary high durability stain-repellent performance to match that currently available on the market requires overcoming a number of technical challenges. The first significant challenge is the identification and development of a suitable molecular structure that incorporates both low surface energy properties (hydrophobic/oleophobic properties) and suitable binding groups to facilitate chemical bonding to the fibre surface to promote durability. Whilst it is desirable that the former property should be achieved without the use of fluorination, it is expected that Table 2: Environmental Effect Assesment of fluorochemicals a significant reduction in fluorine content both by amount of fluorinated agent and by the fluorine content of the agent will provide an expedient intermediate route to the ultimate elimination of fluorine. Alternatives to be explored

will be hydrocarbon chains that contain a small number of Table 2: Environmental Effect Assesment of fluorochemicals carbon atoms in their backbone such as C6 and C4. The low surface energy aspect can therefore be provided by short chain PFCs or hydrocarbons that are long or short chain. The actual performance will be dictated in detail by the selection. Binding these low energy groups to the textile can be achieved by the use of suitable cross-linking agents that are widely known. These include amine, epoxy and isocyanate groups. The second challenge for the development of the treatment will be to incorporate these cross-linking groups with the low energy groups to form a nanoscale building block prior to application on the textile. The development of such building blocks is the central aim of sol-gel technology,

which chemically manipulates functional silanes to produce 3. Approach to market the required nanostructure. 3. ApproachTexShield to market is an European SME-Association project, The third challenge to be faced is the impregnation/ TexShiepartnersld is an European are NWTEX SME-Association (UK), project, UNITEX partners are(BE), NWTEX Up-Tex (UK), UNITEX (FR) (BE), deposition technique, in order to produce a suitable layer on Up-Texand (FR) Techtera and Techtera (FR) (FR) (see(see www.unitex.be www.unitex.be and http://www.texshield- and http://www.project.eu). The SME Associations within this project wish to ensure that the solution to the problem described the surface of the fabric without excessive loading, which abovetexshield-project.eu). is made available for exploitation The to theirSME mem Associationsbers. The approaches within identified this by the RTDs in delivering the necessary performance attributes (foreground), will be owned exclusively could alter the ‘feel’ of the material, with regard to weight by theproject SME Associations. wish to This ensure will be used that to ensurethe solutionthat, following to the the project, problem the approach or stiffness. It is also desirable to use the minimum loading will bedescribed licensed to theirabove interested is membersmade foravailable exploitation. forNeither exploitation the RTD nor theto SME partners in the project will receive any property rights from this project. To emend the problem possible for cost and environmental reasons. It is expected we aretheir likely members. to require the Themanufacture approaches of a nanomaterial identified solution, byderived the by RTDs a sol-gel approach, this will fall outside the expertise of the members of SME associations in the field of that a spray, print or immersion process will be required, textiles.in It deliveringis, therefore, anticipatedthe necessary that IP-rights willperformance be used by the SMEattributes associations to with varying parameters of loading, dispersion and curing establish a supply infrastructure that makes available the active multifunctional materials that can then(foreground), be accessed by thewill SME be end -uownedsers. exclusively by the SME in order to optimise against the above properties. The Associations. This will be used to ensure that, following the As SME Associations (NWTEX, Up-Tex, UNITEX, Techtera), we will direct the research development of the above materials and corresponding activitiesproject, of the restheearch approach partners, validate will bethe licensedresults of the to project their by interested field trials at the deposition process requires detailed characterisation and demonstrators and disseminate the final project results to our members. The SME textile printing/dyeingmembers participants for exploitation. in this project will Neitherprovide the thetechnical RTD requirements nor the and SME contribute analysis based on in-depth understanding in the field. This partners in the project will receive any property rights from is a significant technical challenge, since these materials this project. To emend the problem we are likely to require are structurally complex. One particular advantage of the the manufacture of a nanomaterial solution, derived by a PFC-C8 treatments over its current alternatives is that they sol-gel approach, this will fall outside the expertise of the result in a very thin film covering each filament and fibre in members of SME associations in the field of textiles. It the textile. This thin film has little effect on the stiffness or is, therefore, anticipated that IP-rights will be used by the feel of the textile, but a significant impact on the functional SME associations to establish a supply infrastructure that characteristics. makes available the active multifunctional materials that Even though the SME Associations and the SME members can then be accessed by the SME end-users. of this consortium are experts in the field of fabrics, we lack As SME Associations (NWTEX, Up-Tex, UNITEX, the R&D expertise to overcome the technical barriers. Our Techtera), we will direct the research activities of the survey of expertise available has convinced us that there is

10 WETENSCHAPPELIJKE PUBLICATIES UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 no single Research provider with a sufficiently broad range To be followed … of technological knowledge of both chemical formulation and textile finishing. Consequently, we have recruited 3 Authors: RTD performers with the necessary skills to deliver this Prof. Dr. M. Van Parys ([email protected]) - UNITEX project: TWI, Insa-Lyon and the University College of I. Garez ([email protected]), F. Godefroidt Ghent – TO2C. Participating SMEs are: CTF2000 and ([email protected]), T. Van Hove

Decca (BE), Panaz (UK), SNano (TR), EVA Commerce (BG). ([email protected]) - University College Gent – TO2C Fully Renewable Biocomposites And Translucent Concrete Researchers at the Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University present two technologies recently developed at the institute. By Marie-Isabel Popzyk, Yves-Simon Gloy and Thomas Gries

The Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) is one of the largest with 3T TextilTechnologieTransfer GmbH, a technology institutes of RWTH Aachen University and one of the transfer spinoff of ITA. leading textile research institutes in Germany. Currently The institute offers courses in mechanical engineering, almost 100 researchers, including postdoctoral and specialized in textile engineering, and industrial engineering, doctoral candidates, do research in the field of textile specialized in textile engineering; and trains teachers in machinery, new materials and recycling as well as in technical education for professional schools. Beyond that, the field of fully renewable biobased composites. With the opportunity to earn a Dr.-Ing. degree exists. From two European partners, ITA developed a racecar seat fall 2014 on, an international Master’s program in Textile consisting completely of flax and polylactic acid (PLA). Engineering is offered. Also, ITA developed translucent concrete, which during daytime has an optical characteristic comparable to a Biocomposites natural stone cladding. In addition, each concrete panel can be lit in a different color using LED panels. In the field of biocomposites, ITA focuses on developing composites that are made completely of natural materials. The Institute There are several possible routes to produce fully biobased ITA belongs to the top 10 institutes of RWTH Aachen composites. Nature Wins is a recently successfully University, Aachen, Germany. Its core competencies are concluded project on which ITA and two other European the development of textile machinery and components, project partners developed fully renewable thermoplastic manufacturing technologies and comprehensive process biocomposites. The project focused on the development of chains; as well as high-performance fiber materials and biocomposites based on long/continuous industrial natural innovative textile-based products in the sectors of mobility, fibers as reinforcement and thermoplastic biopolymer civil engineering and life science, energy, and health (See fibers as matrix material. The scope was narrowed further Figure 1). The essential technology fields of its research by focusing on a production route based on blending are material and energy efficiency, functional integration both matrix and reinforcement in fiber form and using and integrated production technologies. compression molding as the composite formation process. One unique feature of ITA is its consistency of manufacture. The project goal was to produce a racecar seat consisting ITA is able to produce carbon-fiber- reinforced plastics of a nonwoven made using a blend of flax and PLA and all other materials through all steps of manufacturing, fibers (See Figure 2). ITA selected the natural fibers and starting with a precursor and finishing with a laminated developed the textile processes as well as semi-finished textile fabric. Additionally, ITA is researching the recycling parts, concluding with an ecological valuation and testing of carbon-fiber-reinforced plastics and other materials. All of the seat. In summary, this project shows that flax and research services are offered and handled in cooperation PLA show excellent compatibility and adhesion, making 216 x 77 mm

Our Know-how Your Advantage

Textilcolor AG Textilcolor AG Schildstr. 2, CH-9475 Sevelen Marktgass 11, Postfach 407, FL-9490 Vaduz Tel.: + 41 (0) 81 786 11 11 Tel.: + 423 232 73 15 E-Mail: [email protected] Fax: + 41 (0) 81 786 11 22 Fax: + 423 232 73 19 Internet: www.textilcolor.ch

11 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 WETENSCHAPPELIJKE PUBLICATIES these materials a very good combination for composites. Conclusion Consolidation and impregnation of flax/PLA composites Innovative solutions in the field of textile machinery and can therefore be achieved within an acceptable process technical textiles from basic research to application-related window. research are offered at ITA. The environmental assessment showed that flax and PLA have strong potential to reduce global warming effects, Editor’s note: Dipl.-Ing. Marie-Isabel Popzyk is a research fellow, and Univ.-Prof. Prof. h. c. Dr.-Ing. Dipl.-Wirt. Ing Thomas Gries is head of research, at Institut für but that some attention is still needed to address other Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University. Dr.-Ing. Yves-Simon Gloy is division environmental effects, mostly related to agricultural head, Textile Machinery/Production Technologies at ITA; and adjunct professor, practices. Department of Material Science and Engineering, College of Engineering and Science, Clemson University. Grateful acknowledgement goes to the research association Forschungskuratorium Textil e. V., a branch of the German For more information about ITA, visit ita.rwth-aachen.de. Federation of Industrial Research Associations (AiF), for REFERENCES the financial funding — through AiF-CORNET — of the [1] Ramaswamy, S. et al.: Nature Wins. Final technical report. 2013. research project AiF-No. 48 EN. The writers would also like [2] Roye, A. et al.: Faser- und textilbasierte Lichtleitung in Betonbauteilen – to thank project partners Centexbel, Belgium, and Sirris Lichtleitender Beton. Beton- und Stahlbetonbau 104 (2009), Heft 2, 2009, Seite 121-126. Leuven-Gent Composites Application Lab, Belgium [1]. [3] lucem.de

Translucent Concrete ITA developed translucent concrete, now generally known as LUCEM Lichtbeton (LUCEM Light Transmitting Concrete), and produced by LUCEM GmbH, Stolberg, Germany. Translucent concrete is a novel structural material with a light-conducting feature (See Figure 3). This concrete contains 3-percent optical fibers, which are constituted of a core and a sheet with different refraction Mr. Aguinaldo - CEDRO TEXTIL - Brazil indexes. The principle of total reflection is used, and if a light ray impinges upon the interface of core and sheet, it is refracted or reflected depending on its angle of entry. Figure 1: Textile process chain and application fields at Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University To achieve total reflection, the refracting angle of the core ‘THE ENERGY-FRIENDLINESS has to be higher than that of the mantle. Thus, the core is made of denser optical material than the mantle. Possible optical fibers are organic man-made fibers like polymethyl OF THE PICANOL MACHINES methacrylate (PMMA), polycarbonate (PC) and polystyrene (PS), as well as inorganic fibers like silica glass and quartz glass. Glass fibers are preferred because of their durability LOWERS OUR ECOLOGICAL despite the alkali environment in the concrete. The fibers are processed further into textile fabrics in FOOTPRINT.’ order to simplify and to accelerate the production process. If smaller batches are produced, loose fibers can also be used. For concreting, the optical fiber surfaces are Figure 2: Production route for biocomposites made of flax and PLA fibers [1] ‘At Cedro, preserving the environment is more than a slogan, it is expression of good sense and respect for nature. INF: Industrial Natural Fibers / UD: Unidirectional / MD: Multidirectional positioned in layers, thereby making possible a variable That’s why we try to reduce waste as much as possible, since weaving waste is also waste of energy. That’s one gap in direction of the height between each layer. Also, a of the reasons we choose Picanol airjets for our weaving department. Besides quality and performance these high matrix viscosity is required; otherwise, an uncontrolled floating or sinking of the fiber surface is possible. After machines guarantee the best energy/output ratio in the market.’ setting, the fibers are positioned in the longitudinal direction of the concrete block. The concrete block is then Read the full story on www.picanol.be/ﬁ ttowin sawn into thin layers with translucent features. To improve Figure 3: Hand in front of and behind translucent concrete [3] the guiding of light, each layer needs to be cut and polished. Panels with a thickness of only 1.5 centimeters (cm) are possible. Each panel can be accompanied with a LED panel. During daytime, the optical characteristic of these concrete panels is comparable to that of a natural stone cladding. As seen in Figure 3, during daytime, the silhouette of an object behind a panel can be seen through the panel. However, the panel looks like natural stone if nothing is directly behind it. The first facade installed at the Institute für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University has 136 panels in the size of 150 cm by 50 cm. The panels become brighter with the reduction of daylight, and each panel can be lit with a different color. Thus, an individual light scenario can be programmed and controlled via iPhone App (See Figure Figure 4: A translucent concrete has been installed at ITA, RWTH Aachen University, 4) [2, 3]. Germany

WETENSCHAPPELIJKE PUBLICATIES UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 ENERGY TIME MATERIALS TALENT MARKET

MIA12444_PIC_ads_BASIS_A4.indd 2 18/03/14 16:07 Mr. Aguinaldo - CEDRO TEXTIL - Brazil ‘THE ENERGY-FRIENDLINESS OF THE PICANOL MACHINES LOWERS OUR ECOLOGICAL FOOTPRINT.’

‘At Cedro, preserving the environment is more than a slogan, it is expression of good sense and respect for nature. That’s why we try to reduce waste as much as possible, since weaving waste is also waste of energy. That’s one of the reasons we choose Picanol airjets for our weaving department. Besides quality and performance these machines guarantee the best energy/output ratio in the market.’

Read the full story on www.picanol.be/ﬁ ttowin

ENERGY TIME MATERIALS TALENT MARKET

MIA12444_PIC_ads_BASIS_A4.indd 2 18/03/14 16:07 Clariant’s Exolit® OP 560 confirmed as safer flame retardant for PU foam - United States Environmental Protection Agency we can offer our customers. We feel a foam with 33 % concludes assessments of flame retardants certified bio-renewable content that passes the open - Non-halogenated Exolit OP 560 identified as safer flame standard of CA-117-1975 and can be labelled alternative to pentaBDE for PUR foams under the new California law as flame retardant free, is - Supports upholstery sector in switch to renewable a huge step in that direction.” materials and enhanced environmental compatibility Additional testing by Clariant and Natural Foams Clariant, a world leader in specialty chemicals, confirms reinforces the EPA’s replacement assessment of the good news for the upholstery industry and other sectors Exolit material. Results from these and other independent looking for safer, environmentally more compatible tests show good flame retardant performance as well as flame retardants that meet internationally accepted substantial smoke reduction from these foams. A recent flammability standards for flexible polyurethane foam. study4 by dr. Heather Stapleton at Duke University’s In its draft Alternatives Assessment report1 on flame Nicholas School for the Environment in North Carolina retardants in flexible foam released in June2 , the also concluded that Exolit OP 560 is not released from U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) identified the polyurethane foam. Clariant’s oligomeric phosphonate polyol (OPP) flame Exolit OP 560 is not only halogen-free but becomes ® retardant – marketed under the trade name Exolit OP an integral part of the PU foam, creating possibilities 560 – as a safer alternative to pentabromo diphenylether to produce flexible foams with locked-in fire protection (pentaBDE), traditionally used for giving fire protection without the environmental and health concerns of to foam. traditional flame retardants. The US-EPA report is a step The report is part of the EPA’s Design for the Environment forward in easing the identification of safer alternatives program, which helps industries choose safer chemicals, by PU foam producers and end-users. and offers a basis for future decision-making by providing Clariant is looking to expand capacity to meet increasing a detailed comparison of the potential public health and demand in the move toward more environmentally environmental impacts of chemical alternatives. friendly and sustainable PU foams. Exolit OP 560 is a reactive flame retardant that eliminates unwanted emissions since it becomes chemically bonded within the polymeric polyurethane foam structure. As a result, the Exolit OP 560 cannot leave the foam during use. Exolit OP is also halogen-free, and has a more favourable toxicological and environmental profile. In particular, it cannot bio-accumulate in humans and other organisms since it is “locked” into the foam. Further Fig. 1: Clariant’s Exolit® OP 560 confirmed as safer flame retardant for PU foam benefits for PU applications include excellent ageing stability, as well as low smoke density and smoke gas corrosivity in case of a fire. The phosphonate’s high effectiveness and good compatibility with natural polymers allow it to be used at low dosages in the foam matrix, which also adds to the foam’s excellent sustainability profile. Natural Foams Technology (formerly Green Urethanes Ltd.), the provider of green solutions to the global PU industry, has confirmed that manufacturers can use Exolit OP 560 with its natural oil polyol (NOP) foams to develop low-emission-flexible foams that meet Fig. 2: Exolit® OP 560 is not only halogen-free but becomes an integral part of internationally accepted flammability standards3 such the PU foam, creating possibilities to produce flexible foams with locked-in fire protection without the environmental and health concerns of traditional flame as TB117-1975, California’s open flame flammability test retardants for upholstered furniture, and the updated Cal TB 117- 2013, which comes into force in January 2015. With 1 US-EPA foam flame retardant draft update report - http://www.epa.gov/dfe/pubs/ high bio-renewable content, the foams have become projects/flameret/about.htm 2 US-EPA Press release - http://yosemite.epa.gov/opa/admpress.nsf/0/ the first to be accepted into the USDA’s Bio-Preferred F943A4C163A5B8A785257CF500698492 program, a U.S. federal program to encourage industry 3 Jeff Rowlands: Natural Foams Technology to produce safer and more environmentally acceptable flexible PU foams. PU MAGAZINE – VOL. 11, NO. to switch to more sustainable materials. 4 – Aug./Sep. 2014 -- http://naturalfoams.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/ NCFI Polyurethanes, a North Carolina-based Special-Reprint-Natural-Foams-Technology-PU-Magazine-August-2014.pdf 4 E M Cooper, G L Kroeger, K Davis, P L Ferguson, H M Stapleton: Duke Superfund manufacturer, has been utilizing the NOP technology Center Foam Project: Flame Retardant Testing for the General Public. Poster in their BioLuxMax line for several years. After running presented at BFR 2014 conference, Indianapolis, IN, USA -- http://naturalfoams. extensive trials with Exolit OP 560, they plan to introduce com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/BFR_2014_Final1.pdf a commercial product in the 4th quarter 2014. “This is For more information: Stefanie Nehlsen a natural evolution for our BioLuxMax initiative,” says Phone: +41 61 469 63 63 Chris Bradley, VP of Consumer Products for NCFI. “This E-mail: [email protected] project has always been about maximizing the benefits Website: www.clariant.com

14 WETENSCHAPPELIJKE PUBLICATIES UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 Archroma entices with inspiring colours and ecology and economy focus With the motto: “We touch and textile mills, brands and retailers • BLUE MAGIC : Archroma’s all-in- colour people’s lives, every day, to develop innovative solutions one bleaching auxiliary is the key everywhere”, Archroma’s value- that are both more ecologically to the new BLUE MAGIC process. adding textile dyes, chemicals and economically sustainable, by Based on Imerol® BLUE liq., it and services promote the creation providing a fast, measurable and generates both economic and of exciting, quality textiles using reliable approach to the selection ecological advantages. Besides environmentally-friendlier and of chemical products and process its advanced brightening effect, more sustainable manufacturing solutions. The effectiveness of its BLUE MAGIC provides higher processes and products. sustainability calculation system productivity, simplified handling, was confirmed in physical tests better uniformity and improved Colour innovations for more carried out by leading machine dye-ability, with less impact on the sustainable end-products builder Fong’s. In October 2013, environment. • ADVANCED DENIM : with its Archroma received the prestigious Based on the “Singulet Bleaching award-winning ADVANCED ICIS “Best Business Innovation” Technology”, Imerol® BLUE liq. is DENIM concept, Archroma aims Award for ONE WAY. With the a wizard with a hat full of fantastic at developing new technologies Award, ICIS recognized Archroma’s magic tools. One single product for achieving exciting colour and strong commitment to innovation delivers an efficient, economic and material effects while reducing the with world-class quality standards, short discontinuous pre-treatment. impact of denim manufacturing on high service levels, cost-efficiency Whether customers need a ready- the environment. When employing and sustainability. for-dyeing grade or the brighter Archroma’s Advanced Denim • DOUBLE BLACK : designed optical white, the BLUE MAGIC technology, based on Archroma’s to excite the fashion industry, process will deliver it, without a breakthrough “Denim-Ox” and Archroma’s DOUBLE BLACK is separate rinsing. This results not “Pad/Sizing-Ox” processes, water a synergy of dyeing technologies only in shorter time and reduced consumption can be reduced that creates stunning, deep energy, but also in reduced water by up to 92%, up to 63% of black shades under any lighting consumption. From yarn to cotton the usual cotton waste can be conditions, with great flexibility flocks, to terry towels, woven avoided, and up to 30% can be and excellent wash-fastness. and knitwear, the BLUE MAGIC saved in energy costs compared Archroma’s DOUBLE BLACK process can allow savings of up to traditional denim processes. brings together in one process a to 50% in water, 40% in energy Archroma recently estimated that sulphur black dyestuff, Diresul® and 50% in time. the use of its Advanced Denim Black RDT-2KS liq., and a reactive • Drimaren® HF and Drimaren® CL: technology had allowed savings black dyestuff, Drimaren® Black Archroma’s Drimaren® HF and of approximately 700 million CL-S, resulting in deep black Drimaren® CL range of reactive litres of water in 2012 alone. shades and enhanced performance dyes shows robust dyeing The figure is truly impressive: for cellulose fibres. Archroma’s behaviour on modern, ultra-low Advanced Denim was used only DOUBLE BLACK combines the liquor ratio, dyeing machinery in an extremely small part of the high performance of sulphur combined with low temperature worldwide production of jeans; blacks such as perspiration- and (60° C) washing off requirements imagine how much water could light-fastness, with the features of guarantee resource savings and be saved if more manufacturers reactive blacks: shade flexibility, ensure environmental sustainability. joined the Advanced Denim repetitive washing fastness, The range provides a high degree revolution! Archroma received etc. All this is achieved without of fixation, reproducibility and the ICIS Innovation Award for its an increase in processing time excellent washing-off and wet- ® Advanced Denim concept in 2012. because scouring and Diresul fastness properties in both exhaust • Optisul® C : these newly launched black dyeing are carried out at the and continuous applications. dyes enable manufacturers to same time. expand their colour horizons Remarks: with a new range of six dyes Low-temperature innovations for * Below limits of detection especially designed to produce more sustainable production Optisul®, Diresul®, Drimaren® and Imerol® are soft colours in continuous dyeing registered trademarks of Archroma Low-temperature processes allow bluesign® is a registered trademark of bluesign processes. These affinity-free tremendous savings in energy, Technologies AG sulfide-free* dyes, suitable for water and other resources, but can ** GOTS (or Global Organic Textile Standard) is a ® standard of International Working Group on Global GOTS** and bluesign 1 approval, be extremely complex. Archroma’s Organic Textile Standard can be combined with each other experts offer a constant flow of at low concentrations to obtain innovations and solutions aimed at collections of jeans in a wide allowing customers to reap such For more information: array of easily achievable and benefits with its BLUE MAGIC all-in- Archroma - Muriel Werlé reproducible soft colours. ® one bleaching process or Drimaren Phone: +65 6866 7422 • ONE WAY: Archroma’s ONE HF and Drimaren® CL dyes for or +65 8318 1260 WAY Sustainability Service helps cellulose. E-mail: [email protected]

15 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 PRODUCTENNIEUWS Big Impact zet met zijn wereldprimeur de gordijnenmarkt op zijn kop • Productiviteit: snelste high-quality- Dit maakt het mogelijk om custom- inkten en te verwerken materialen. De textielprinter ter wereld made dessin toe te passen en kan komende maanden zal Big Impact de • Vrijheid: 330 cm printbreedte de voorraden van gordijnmerken en printer verder testen met meer varianten betekent ontwerpvrijheid in kleur, groothandel drastisch reduceren, dit polyestertextiel en nonwovenmateriaal. patroon en formaat alles met absolute designvrijheid. • Kwaliteit: kleurintensief, slijtvast/ Oekotex-inkt op basis van water wasbaar en lange levensduur in Haarfijne kwaliteit van 7 pcl Naast een snelle en kwalitatief 1200 dpi De nieuwe productielijn van Big Impact hoogwaardige printer is de Durst Big Impact, specialist in printwerk op realiseert een bijzonder hoge kwaliteit. Kappa Rhotex 330 ook een duurzame (extreem) groot formaat, breidt zijn De basis daarvoor zit in de innovatieve machine. Het systeem verwerkt de machinepark uit met de Durst Kappa printerkoptechnologie die met een pixel grondstoffen veel zuiniger en exact; 320. Daarmee zet het Eindhovense van 7 pcl maar liefst 1200 dpi haalt. waar traditionele textielpersen 135 printbedrijf de markt voor interieurtextiel Daarnaast maakt de machine gebruik gram verf/m2 gebruiken, volstaat op zijn kop. De nieuwe machine levert van een klevende transportband deze printer met 12 gram inkt/m2. door zijn formaat (330 cm printbreedte, waardoor het oppervlak bewegingsvrij Bovendien werkt het ook nog eens lengte vrijwel onbeperkt) mogelijkheden (en rek/krimpvrij) kan worden geprint. met Oekotex-inkten. Vergeleken die voorheen niet bestonden. Zo De uitgekiende combinatie van speciale met traditionele productiemethoden hoeven dessins niet langer te repeteren, CMYK-inkten en diverse textielsoorten zoals rotatie- en vlakzeefdruk heeft wat een volledige ontwerpvrijheid maakt de cirkel rond. De inkten deze productielijn, naast grote geeft. Daarnaast realiseert de printer dringen in de vezels met als resultaat: besparingen op kleurpasta’s (99,5%), een constante, zeer hoge kwaliteit krachtige, heldere afbeeldingen met water (89,3%) en energie (81,5%), bij een extreem hoge productiviteit. een haarfijne resolutie die bovendien nog een voordeel : doordat er geen De machine is sinds begin juli 2014 slijtvast en wasbaar zijn. sjablonen meer nodig zijn, spaart volledig operationeel. dat zo’n tweeduizend kilo nikkel per Ontwerpvrijheid druksysteem per jaar. Textiel on-demand Marc Schoenmakers, directeur Big Big Impact staat te boek als een Impact: “Wij streven er steeds naar de vernieuwer in de printproductie- grootst mogelijke stap in kwaliteit en industrie. Dankzij continue innovatie productiviteit te maken in combinatie kan Big Impact de beste prijs- met nieuwe mogelijkheden. Onze kwaliteitverhouding realiseren in nieuwste installatie is meer dan zo’n de markt. Big Impact gaf Durst, stap. de gerenommeerde fabrikant De machine is spectaculair en van industriële inkjetprinters, de geeft de interieurtextielmarkt een opdracht tot ontwikkeling van gehele nieuwe dimensie. Gordijnen Fig. 1: de indrukwekkende Durst Kappa 320 van Big Impact de productietextielprinter. Het kamerhoog, absolute designvrijheid én nieuwe arsenaal van Big Impact razendsnelle on-demand-productie. Voor meer informatie: heeft grote voordelen voor de We kunnen tot wel 10.000 m2 textiel Big Impact interieurtextielbranche die zoekt naar per dag printen.” Hoppenkuil 27 - NL-5626 DD Eindhoven absolute ontwerpvrijheid, hoge kwaliteit Tel.: +31 (0) 40 266 2555 en lange levensduur. Innovatie gaat door Website: www.bigimpact.com Gordijn- en meubelstof is nu te Big Impact heeft de machine nu in vol realiseren via printing-on-demand. bedrijf met een uitgekiende set aan Brückner’s innovative and energy-efficient system solutions The German company rich in factors of success. With our Focusing on sustainability tradition production site in Germany we The requirements to textile products The Brückner group of companies are able to supply individual changed very much in the last is since 65 years worldwide leading solutions and highest quality to our years. The desire to achieve a multi- in the production of complete lines customers. In our technology centre functionality of the end products for the finishing of woven technical we accompany our customers and and variable machinery concepts fabrics, carpets, nonwovens and interested companies when they is increasing continuously. In classical textiles. Sustainability, are developing new products. particular automotive, protection and innovative solutions, worldwide Experienced technologists give safety textiles, geo nonwovens and service and the closeness to our useful information and details in hygienic or medical textiles must customers are our most important personal counselling interviews. have very different characteristics.

16 PRODUCTENNIEUWS UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 They are for example flame-retardant, antimicrobial, hydrophobe, antistatic, dirt-repellent and much more. We - as system and machine manufacturers - have to face these customer-specific requirements. With many years of knowhow our engineers together with our customers develop new machinery concepts for the coating and finishing of technical textiles and nonwovens. These developments are mainly focused on energy-efficiency and the conservation of resources. For this purpose we offer individual energy saving systems for existing lines and integrated consultancy in view of a process optimization. Since 2011 we are involved successfully in the sustainability initiative of the VDMA: Blue Competence.

Technology according to the customers’ desires symTTex In order to support our customers better in the development of new products, we built last year a new technology centre where a test facility for coating and finishing of textiles, woven technical fabrics and nonwovens is installed. This gives us on the one hand the possibility to do optimum research and development work at our own products. And on the other hand we offer our customers and interested companies the possibility to make tests on this line to advance their own product development primarily in the field of coating and functionalising. We can offer with this line the following technologies, depending on the process and on the type of fabric : finishing, coating, impregnating, drying, crosslinking, Trützschler heat-setting as well as laminating. Together with our customers and the chemical industry we develop individual line concepts and processes. focused on Product range “made in Germany” Our range of products comprises beside the classical textile stenter all coating and impregnation lines for the single-side and double-side finishing of textiles, woven technical fabric, floorcoverings and BCF nonwovens. And we supply all corresponding units, such as padders. Our recently developed padder offers beside a retractable trough absolutely low residual liquor quantities. For minimum application processes we offer for example our WAVE-COATER with integrated dosing roller. We recommend this process for the single-sided application of low- viscosity functional liquors. Getting fibers into shape – for those special For the finishing of technical textiles we supply moments of feeling good. very different coating and traction units and calender systems. But of course we supply One decisive ingredient of a high-quality carpet also complete line concepts for direct or indirect is the quality of the BCF yarn. BCF spinning coating. Depending on the process we adapt the plants from Trützschler Man-Made Fibers al- dryer concept to the process technology and the customer’s process parameters. In the preparation ways give you the good feeling of a profitable we identify the maximum load of the line and define and reliable investment. the exact machinery parameters. In the field of functional coating of PVC, PU or acrylates we offer lines for the production of protection textiles for hygiene products, sportswear or filter products. For the sports and leisure area and for the automotive industry we design particular line concepts for example for the air bag industry, finishing of parachute silk, sailing cloth, artificial leather and

17 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 www.truetzschler.comPRODUCTENNIEUWS many more. In addition we supply for these lines which lead from lines for the production of grinding filter media via automotive to geo disks, roofing underlay, construction textiles and voluminous high-loft reinforcements and more. Another applications. group of products are the lines for finishing and consolidation of Agent for Belgium: nonwovens. In this sector we have GETCO nv – Marleen Bruneel many years of experience in the Loofstraat 30 construction of flat-bed dryers and 8500 KORTRIJK heat-setting dryers, air-laid dryers, Tel.: +32 56 22 19 01 Fig. 1: a Brückner line with multiple technical Fax: +32 56 22 49 68 possibilities high-temperature and thermo-fusion E-mail: [email protected] ovens as well as drum dryers. Skype: mbgetco There is a multitude of possibilities Website: www.getco.be DILO-Isomation : even web mass for reduced fibre consumption Textile machine builders and mass flow and for reducing fibre Examples for this are needling on producers have traditionally made mass variations. Which basic textile a running brush apron and elliptic great efforts to achieve an even fibre technological considerations can be needle movement. mass flow and thus a reduction of taken into account? If drafting and the resulting elongation the fibre mass variations in textile is used to change the quality as for products. The main target is to example fibre reorientation, drafts reduce fibre consumption based have to be controlled by minimizing on the logical basic consideration the drafting zone lengths. that the medium fibre mass may be reduced and still meets quality 2. Compression requirements for the textile product. This principle applies for yarns as Every kind of planar compaction or well as for textile sheets. compression results conversely to the impact of the draft and to an increased homogeneity of the fibre mass as thin or hollow areas are filled in at least partially.

Fig. 2: MultiFeed - doubling of the fibre mass by 3. Doubling “Twinflow” for a more homogeneous flock mass flow, additional pneumatic compression of the flock mass Also at doubling, the principles in the lower trunk for increasing the homogeneity for yarn and textile structures are 1. Draft minimizing the same and are based on the

Fig. 1: reduction of the medium area weight at low When transporting fibre mass, draft conclusions of Martindale. Based variation without falling below minimum requirements occurs in the fibre mass at the on the mathematic interrelation In case of web forming machines, transfer points from one stage to that individual values of the mass creative solutions have been in the next because drive forces are distribution of various layers of fibre demand for the last decades necessary to overcome friction and mass do not add up linearly but only resulting for example in a better adhesive forces. Speed variations geometrically via the radical of the quality of card feeding, higher in the transport means induced draft sum of the square numbers of the layering precision and improved in the fibre mass, which creates standard variations, homogenization web edge lay down to improve the the necessary transport forces. is achieved by matching one or more web evenness. It is not until the Unfortunately, these drafts often fibre mass layers on each other. delivery of coordinated production exceed the elastic range of the installations that the single solutions fibre mass and result in permanent at the different components of elongations. Consequences are fibre preparation, web forming additional irregularities in the fibre and consolidation are considered mass distribution as thin areas are more and more holistically and are more elongated than thick areas. integrated in a closed loop by the This conclusion leads to efforts to operation, drive and automation either reduce drafts necessary for the technology. fibre mass transport or, if possible, Using the example of a web forming to eliminate them by using “positive and consolidation installation, we transport”. Positive web transport may discuss the different elements means to bring in transport forces available for homogenizing the fibre at the points of motion resistance.

18 PRODUCTENNIEUWS UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 A classic example for this method is 8. positive web transport within the cross-lapper which does not only the needling zone (brush apron, fulfil its basic task by building up a Hyperpunch), web width and a web mass but at the 9. controlled felt drafting for fibre same time helps homogenizing the reorientation, web efficiently. 10. closed loop control system for Many actions aimed at reducing fibre fibre mass flow by using an area mass variations can be traced back to weight measuring unit. these three basic principles of reducing Thus, Dilo has all specific, technical drafts, planar compression and the use and technological solutions to of the doubling effect. achieve a more homogeneous fibre Prerequisite for homogenizing the mass flow within the complete fibre mass flow is of course the fibre Fig. 3: CV1-System : pre-compensation of thick production line. Drafts are either preparation for staple fibre. Opening edges to get an even cross-profile eliminated, reduced or controlled. and blending systems that meet the 5. precise cross-lapper kinematics at Compression of the flock mass or high requirements for an optimum reduced dimensional variations of within the web structure supports flock size and homogeneous blending the web, homogenization. Also, the classical incorporate modern electronic drive 6. web drafter with controlled draft for means of doubling results in very technology that allows an efficient fibre mass reduction, good homogenizing effects when speed synchronization of the different 7. batt feeding system for needling with applied in the card feeder. The line components. Following these compression, variety of solutions of special common considerations, a short list web forming and consolidation of the special components within components aimed at reducing an installation for the production of fibre mass variations are considered nonwovens, which help reduce fibre under the term “DILO-Isomation” mass variations, is shown below: and are further developed. 1. controlled dosing of the flocks, 2. card feeding with flock doubling, Agent for Belgium: flock compression and belt weighing, GETCO nv – Roger Verhelst 3. web compression, Loofstraat 30 - 8500 KORTRIJK Tel.: +32 56 22 19 01 4. control of longitudinal web profile to Fax: +32 56 22 49 68 pre-compensate thick edges in the Fig. 4: CBF-System : homogeneous batt feeding to E-mail: [email protected] batt cross-profile (CV1-system), the needle loom at minimum draft Website: www.getco.be

equipment for advanced textiles

Klieverik is a world leader in industrial rotary thermo-processing equipment

Our core technology uses precise temperature, pressure and web handling to: • laminate • coat • fuse • bond • dye fixate a large range of substrates www.klieverik.com

19 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 PRODUCTENNIEUWS DyStar’s new blue shades for denim The DyStar denim team has process to provide an extremely solution also includes auxiliaries developed new blues based on dark shade and more resistance to provide beautiful, fashionable DyStar’s patented Indigo vat 40% to fading. wash effects, Lava® dyes for solution. The denim team has a With these new developments, the colourful denim and a service team strong focus on environmentally DyStar denim team continues the that supports its customers in all friendly solutions and on providing way to offer the best and most important denim markets. the best service to their customer. innovative solutions to our indigo But they also strive to inspire the solution customers. It doesn’t only denim industry with new shades want to provide the best product, it and effects. Celebrating a “Festival also wants to be an inspiration for of Blue” the company launches four denim fashion by launching these new shades for fashionable denim. fresh new blues. - Sky Blue is a bright blue that has DyStar indigo has a history of almost a clear look after the wash-down 120 years of technical development process is applied, and inspiration. The core product is - Ever Blue is a ring dyeing and the state-of-the art DyStar indigo Fig. 1: “Festival of Blue” keeps jeans after washing and vat 40% solution which allows a fading forever blue, cleaner indigo dyeing process and a - Full Blue is a core dyeing to make reduction of the sodium hydrosulfite DyStar Singapore Pte Ltd. jeans appear bluish after wash usage by 60-70%. Being a solution Phone: +(65) 6671 2800 down, provider, DyStar offers not only a Fax: +(65) 6659 1327 - Deep Blue is a very special high-quality dye. The DyStar denim Website: www.DyStar.com EFI brings Fiery Value to new Xerox Color C60/C70 Printer EFI™ announced on September workflow features, giving users - increased productivity across all 23th that EFI Fiery® digital front ends exceptional colour quality at a more- Fiery-enabled printing devices (DFE) are available for the new Xerox affordable cost. More demanding using the latest version of Color C60/C70 Printer. EFI and production printing environments Command WorkStation®, the Xerox have collaborated to deliver can use the Xerox EX C60/C70 Print powerful, intuitive job management the customised Xerox EX-i C60/C70 Server, which delivers 83% more interface that lets users manage Print Server powered by Fiery and processing power. all Fiery Driven™ printers locally the Xerox EX C60/C70 Print Server The new Fiery servers utilise our or remotely from a single user powered by Fiery to drive these light latest platform, FS150 Pro, giving interface; production digital presses. Xerox customers the ability to offer - simplified layout and make-ready The new Fiery servers allow in- unsurpassed image quality and with Fiery Impose for intuitive, visual document imposition and plant and light production printers establish easier to use, automated automated handling of common to meet the most demanding workflows. layouts, with preparation functions standards for image quality and Industry-leading functionality in one easy-to-use interface. colour accuracy. The built-in Fiery job automation capabilities, plus More than a DFE, Fiery is known More demanding production printing the seamless integration to EFI MIS for its many industry-leading environments will benefit from the and Web-to-Print products, offer a capabilities, which are available in 83% higher processing power of the unique opportunity for businesses the Xerox-branded servers powered Xerox EX C60/C70 Print Server. In to improve their productivity and by Fiery for the Xerox Color C60/C70 addition, it offers: profitability. Printer. These include: - streamlined end-to-end workflows, - certification to industry standards using seamless integration with The new Fiery DFEs incorporate with IDEAlliance Digital Print EFI MIS/ERP and eCommerce and the proven image processing Certification and FOGRA web-to-print software to move job technologies that made EFI Fiery the Certification, ensuring users meet information through production only DFE to earn a 100% perfect pass or exceed established industry systems faster and more efficiently. label from the VIGC PDF RIP audit. specifications for excellence in In addition, the Xerox EX C60/ They also build on that foundation colorimetric accuracy, uniformity, C70 Print Server integrates with of image-processing quality with the repeatability, durability and solutions such as Xerox FreeFlow® Fiery FS150/FS150 Pro platform’s registration; Digital Workflow Collection and remarkable speed, power and - integration with enterprise Xerox FreeFlow Core as well as accuracy for value-driven, high- systems such as Xerox Standard other popular prepress workflows quality graphic arts environments. Accounting and Xerox Extensible including KODAK PRINERGY, Agfa The new Xerox EX-i C60/C70 Print Interface Program for third-party- Apogee and Heidelberg Prinect; Server offers world-class Fiery developed applications; - best-in-class colour and imaging,

20 PRODUCTENNIEUWS UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 including, automated image Wi-Fi and cloud printing; Fiery VUE, Xerox resellers. For more information enhancement and optional a 3D visual print application that about Fiery Driven digital print software such as the Fiery Graphic guides users through an interactive technologies, visit www.efi.com Arts Package, Premium Edition, workflow to create professional and Fiery Color Profiler Suite. materials; and Fiery FreeForm™ for For more general information: EFI Belgium bvba The Xerox EX-i and EX C60/C70 in-house production of personalised communications. Electronics for Imaging) Print Servers also offer a number of Brixtonlaan 9 - BE-1930 Zaventem benefits for office users, including The new servers are available to Tel.: +32 487 368 665 a number of free features: mobile, order now from Xerox and authorised E-mail: [email protected] The Herbold Plastcompactor A simple and cost-efficient system to The Herbold Plastcompactor is Agent for Belgium: produce an agglomerate with high- available in different models for HERBERT nv – Ludwig Braeckman bulk density, ideal for storing, dosing capacities depending on the material Molenstraat 45 and conveying. Ideal for difficult up to 1500 kg/h and more. 9820 MERELBEKE flowing materials like textile fibres. Tel.: +32 9 223 23 44 Materials that are densified with Fax: +32 9 225 94 72 the Herbold Plastcompactor: E-mail: [email protected] - film waste from production lines, Website: www.herbert.be - fibres and foams, - carpet waste with backings and fibres, - powder or dust and fines from size reduction processes, - mixed thermoplastic waste, - shavings, - mixed plastic waste, - and many more. Textile agglomerates with its Fig. 2: sample of an input material : pre-shredded high-bulk density and good flow textiles and films characteristics can be used as fillers Fig. 1: plant structure without force feeding in extrusion The Herbold Plastcompactor is a parts or injection moulding products cost-efficient recycling system due among others. to its process simplicity and its For more information see website: automated operation that needs www.herbold.com. Herbold is minimum operator supervision. a leading manufacturer of size The gentle agglomeration of reduction and pulverising equipment thermoplastic materials by the as well as washing lines e.g. for Herbold Plastcompactor process PET bottles, HDPE materials, post- ensures a high-quality product. consumer film and agri-film. Fig. 3: the end-product: agglomerates Monforts’ new modular, interchangeable coating system A modular approach for an employed in the collection and Montex Allround offers considerable industry of extremes: the new storage of methane in biogas plants, benefits to manufacturers of coated Monforts Montex Allround for as well as materials equipped with technical textiles, and not least in technical textiles sensors and electrical conductors respect of its flexibility. Technical textiles are extremely which are now used as base liners The modular coating heads of the diverse in their end-use applications in DSC solar cells. system can be quickly and easily and manufacturers can be called These very different materials, changed by a specially-designed upon to quickly produce a however, have one thing in common: undercarriage from the side of the succession of materials with widely they all require expert finishing for unit, allowing it to be adapted for differing properties, often within a maximum efficiency. different applications. single shift. In seeking to cater to the flexibility There are modules for knife and These can range from carbon in processing technology demanded slot die coating, in addition to those fabrics for today’s high-performance by such wide-ranging production, suitable for flexure, gravure and composites, to filter media Monforts has developed the new rotatory-screen printing. Special which must perform in extreme Montex Allround, a modular, modules for powder scattering and temperatures. Then there are the interchangeable coating system for spraying are also available. The heavy-duty membranes which are technical textiles. The patented unit can be enclosed with a special

21 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 PRODUCTENNIEUWS casing when the handling of fabrics The shortest possible distance treated with organic, or even toxic between the coating head and the solvents is taking place. stenter infeed ensures the highest The Montex Allround, which consists quality coating results. of a spreading unit and a pulling device along with the selected coating head, Agent for Belgium: allows for the tension-free coating of LE CLAIR & MEERT nv the substrate along a greatly-reduced Deinzesteenweg 25 9770 KRUISHOUTEM web path and a very short period of Tel.: 09 333 88 88 ‘open’ coating prior to it entering Fax: 09 333 88 99 Fig. 1: the Montex Allround from Monforts the dryer; ensuring significantly less E-mail: [email protected] chance of contamination. Website: www.leclairmeert.be Oerlikon Neumag’s technologies for an efficient technical nonwoven production A comprehensive portfolio of Technical spunbond technology to markets with very high quality nonwoven and staple fibre for a rapidly growing market demands. technologies, from meltspun Oerlikon Neumag offers the complete spunbond (spunbond and meltblown) process from polymer chips up Air-laid: more homogeneity with to air-laid nonwovens (air-laid) and to roll goods for the production thin nonwovens the new compact staple fibre line of substrate for bitumen roofing The core of the Oerlikon Neumag air- Staple FORCE S 1000 has been membranes, sarking membranes laid technology, the forming head, presented by Oerlikon Neumag and also geotextiles. The one-step sets standards for the production of at this year’s CINTE TECHTEXTIL spunbond technology convinces extremely thin air-laid nonwovens. A CHINA 2014 trade fair in Shanghai. with a combination of effectiveness high uniformity and homogeneous Application areas of the presented and productivity, thus lowering web formation, today enable the technologies are for example special production costs by up to 20 %. production of high-quality, light air- technical uses such as filtration, More than three million tons of laid nonwovens with economically roofing, geotextiles and automotive, technical nonwovens were produced attractive production speeds and as well as hygiene applications. last year and the demand is still plant throughputs. With the new The new Staple FORCE S 1000 increasing, especially in emerging forming head, we can not only with its compact construction and countries. Thinner, lighter, efficient produce very light air-laid materials, low throughputs of up to 15 tons materials, as produced with the but also combination nonwovens per day, enables swift product spunbond technology, now specify with full utilization of the plant colour changes with considerably the trend. capacity, at the same time saving lower waste. The savings in terms raw material. of energy and water resulting from Meltblown technology stand-alone the deployment of a dry-drawing or as an upgrade solution process, lead to a reduction in The Oerlikon Neumag meltblown operating costs and simultaneously technology enables the cost-efficient protect the environment. The option production of high-quality meltblown to install the system on a standard and SMS (spunbond-meltblown- industrial floor also minimizes spunbond) products. Stand-alone investment costs. “Efficient, flexible mono and bico meltblown plants and compact” are extremely produce nonwovens for a variety attractive factors for our customers, of filtration, insulation and sorbent Fig.1: Oerlikon Neumag – Roofing opening up diverse, new market applications. The meltblown potentials for them. The Staple technology is applied for a multitude FORCE S 1000 is not just for fibre of medical and hygiene products as Agent for Belgium: manufacturers focusing on special “Plug & Product” installations in LE CLAIR & MEERT nv applications and on ‘on-demand’ already existing and in new external Deinzesteenweg 25 9770 KRUISHOUTEM deliveries, it also enables nonwoven SXS plants. This solution enables Tel.: 09 333 88 88 producers to efficiently integrate a cost-efficient upgrading of new Fax: 09 333 88 99 fibre manufacturing into their own or existing spunbond plants and E-mail: [email protected] production operations. offers nonwoven producers access Website: www.leclairmeert.be

Zoek geen moeilijkheden, ze vinden jou wel (Winston Groom)

22 PRODUCTENNIEUWS UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 Unleashed productivity with Autocoro 8 from Schlafhorst changes the market While the economic efficiency in the industry for decades. The its weaving yarns on Autocoro 8 of conventional belt-driven rotor Autocoro 8 is a real game-changer. machines at a rotor speed of 160’000 spinning machines has been pushed 35 years ago, Schlafhorst’s Autocoro rpm. This has smashed the barrier of to the limit over the years, the machine revolutionised rotor spinning 150’000 rpm, which was regarded Autocoro 8 from Schlafhorst has thanks to the complete automation as insurmountable in practice for been surprising the industry with of the spinning and winding over twenty years. Tirotex has thus double-digit productivity increases process. In particular, spinning mills achieved a productivity increase of for the last three years. The Autocoro that produced large quantities of 18% compared with the previous 8 thus has the potential to radically so-called commodity yarns took Autocoro 480 machine. The yarn alter the competitive situation in strength and elongation are above advantage of the substantially lower rotor spinning. the minimum requirements of the total cost of ownership (TCO) of the company’s own weaving mill and Schlafhorst’s Autocoro machine Autocoro to increase their efficiency. has dominated the market for below the 25% characteristic curve Now the single-spinning position rotor spinning machines for 35 of Uster Statistics. technology marks a paradigm years. However, the success of High-speed yarn of premium quality shift that will change the industry, the Autocoro 8 outstrips that of its is the strategy which Tirotex aims for it is this innovative technology predecessors. Although the latest with to expand further on the that enables the big standard yarn machine generation has only been global market in the future. With spinning mills above all to cut their on the market for three years, the Autocoro 8 it is a realistic goal, production costs per kilogram of Autocoro 8 spinning positions now because this machine is designed account for 30% of all spinning yarn considerably. The huge boost technically for even higher speeds positions delivered by Schlafhorst in in productivity that the Autocoro 8 than 160’000 rpm. Tirotex is the last ten years. Our customers facilitates with its high rotor speeds developing its competitiveness in have recognised that the Autocoro is especially striking. a targeted manner. The vertically 8 has shaken up the rotor spinning integrated company is already one of market. Double-digit cost reductions 18% more weaving yarn at the major players in Europe, with an are being achieved in many areas 160’000 rpm annual production capacity of over with the Autocoro. These are on a The Moldavian textile company 200 million square metres of finished scale that hasn’t been witnessed Tirotex, based in Tiraspol, spins materials and woven fabrics.

Printing Studio Design

3D Presentation

We’ll be there: Coloring Frankfurt am Main 13 -17 Jan.2015

Hannover 17 -20 Jan.2015

23 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 PRODUCTENNIEUWS 40% more knitting yarn with take- cost of exponentially rising power percent higher efficiency ratings. With up speeds of 240 m/min consumption. The Autocoro 8 with its single spinning position technology, Elif is one of the leading textile revolutionary single-drive technology a smooth change of raw material companies in the Turkish textile is different. It uses at least 20% less is now even possible on single-lot stronghold of Kahramanmaras, energy for the same rotor speed. machines with reliable lot separation producing 13’000 tonnes of viscose The higher the speed, the greater without all spinning positions having yarn each year. Top quality without the saving. to run out first for quality assurance compromise is the recipe for the purposes. Every spinning position success of the Belcoro-certified Lean maintenance equals lower can be attended to individually in the company, which produces primarily personnel costs event of a change of raw material, a knitting yarns in counts of 33-36 tex. Many spinning mills take advantage lot change or a change of spinning In the last four years the company has of single-drive technology to switch components while the remaining boosted its sales from 12 to 60 million to lean maintenance. The machines spinning positions carry on operating US dollars. With take-up speeds of no longer have to be shut down for uninterrupted. 240 m/min, Elif has increased its regular cleaning and servicing jobs. productivity per spinning position by While an entire cleaning brigade leaps Efficiency redefined 40% with the same high quality and into action following the shutdown on The technical innovations on the using 30% less energy. conventional machines so that the Autocoro 8 fundamentally change the This is a staggering result, yet machines can quickly be started up cost structure of the manufacturing Elif still hasn’t fully exploited the again, one employee can service the process. Hefty increases in potential of the Autocoro 8; thanks spinning positions section by section productivity on the one hand and to its single-drive technology, take- on the Autocoro 8 while production massive cost savings in virtually up speeds of 300 m/min and higher otherwise remains ongoing. Peaks all areas on the other give the are easily possible on any length in staffing requirements no longer manufacturers of standard yarns in of machine. Further productivity occur, saving several thousand euros particular new room for manoeuvre. increases are thus pre-programmed per year and per machine. Efficiency is redefined. Companies for the company, which aspires to the that exploit this additional scope market leadership in viscose yarns on 10% more machinery per square skill-fully can cut their costs, augment the Turkish market. metre their productivity and thereby operate For investors building new spinning with much greater flexibility on the Fruit of the Loom: 50% more yarn mills or modifying existing ones, the whole and add new market share. Major changes lie ahead of us. The Fruit of the Loom is also reporting compact design of the Autocoro 8 future of rotor spinning has only just spectacular productivity increases. yields a quicker return on investment. begun. In its fully integrated factory not far The footprint of the Autocoro 8 is from the Moroccan capital Rabat, the approx. 10-13% smaller compared company processes raw cotton from with rival machines. Thus either the the USA to produce ready-cut fabrics volume of investment can be reduced that are then sewn into T-shirts and or the effect of investment increased. sweatshirts for the European market in the nearby sewing plants. 64 10% greater net from gross Autocoro rotor spinning machines Logistical costs in the textile industry work round the clock in the spinning are a significant cost factor that has mill. 18 of these are Autocoro 8 significant effects on competitiveness machines. The new Autocoro 8 rotor and profitability as well as influencing Fig. 1: Autocoro 8: productivity unleashed spinning machines produce 50% decisions regarding location. more yarn with 20% less energy DigiWinding optimises the package consumption. Up to 50% more yarn design so that every package can is a quantum leap, especially for the take up 10% more yarn without any manufacturers of standard yarns, change in package diameter or any who have been battling for years to loss of quality. Ten percent more net squeeze out every extra ounce of from gross has a direct impact on productivity. logistical costs: 10% less packaging expenditure, 10% lower shipping Lower energy costs costs, 10% fewer logistics personnel. What is particularly fascinating is the Fig. 2: Tirotex spins 18% more yarn at 160’000 rpm fact that these staggering productivity Efficiency ratings of over 97% increases have been accomplished For the first time the Autocoro with falling energy consumption: 8 offers the possibility of such Agent for Belgium: 20% lower at Fruit of the Loom and intelligent handling of raw material LE CLAIR & MEERT nv 30% lower at Elif. These are entirely and spinning component changes, Deinzesteenweg 25 9770 KRUISHOUTEM new basic conditions to which even on single-lot machines, that Tel.: 09 333 88 88 the industry will adapt in years to machine downtimes are avoided Fax: 09 333 88 99 come. With conventional belt drives, almost completely. In practical E-mail: [email protected] higher rotor speeds came at the terms, this yields two to three Website: www.leclairmeert.be

24 PRODUCTENNIEUWS UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 PreciFX et Speedster FX de Schlafhorst sont en très grande forme Le marché du Denim croît et est Schalfhorst disposaient de plus Meilleure qualité de fil comparée à âprement disputé. Pour rester avec d’une tonne de fil Denim sur cops. la machine de la concurrence succès et à long terme en tête de Il s’agissait d’un fil de tissage pour Malgré la vitesse de bobinage cette étroite concurrence, un parc chaîne et trame, fil simple 100% nettement plus élevée, la qualité du de machines rentables au plus haut coton d’une finesse de 85 tex (ou fil bobiné sur l’Autoconer X5 était niveau et configurées de façon Ne 7). La tâche consistait d’une meilleure que celle des fils traités optimale est indispensable. Pour part à exploiter les potentiels de sur la machine de la concurrence. le processus de bobinage, du plus productivité de l’Autoconer X5 en La force de traction de fil réduite grand impact sur le plan technique et combinaison avec le PreciFX et le de 30% ainsi que le détachement simultanément le plus rentable dans Speedster FX sans réduire la qualité en douceur du fil sur le cops par le la fabrication du Denim, l’Autoconer de fil. D’autre part, dans une étape Speedster FX sont ici les aspects est l’incontestable favori. Dans le suivante, un design de bobine a été prédominants. Outre les valeurs cadre d’une étude comparative de conçu avec priorité sur un maximum IPI réduites, la pilosité après le très grande envergure, le Schlafhorst d’efficacité qui garantit un meilleur bobinage sur l’Autoconer X5 Technology Center a dégagé les comportement au dévidage dans s’avérait également plus faible que potentiels maximum de productivité le traitement ultérieur sur le cantre sur la machine conventionnelle à du PreciFX et Speedster FX et a d’ourdissage et dans l’atelier de tambour. ainsi apporté la preuve réjouissante tissage. de leur position dominante. Plus Les valeurs d’une machine 17% de fil en plus sur chaque d’une tonne de fils Denim a été de la concurrence à bobinage bobine traitée dans des conditions réelles. conventionnel sur tambour, et sur Les résultats obtenus ont dépassé Un autre résultat de l’étude marathon laquelle une meilleure optimisation toutes les attentes. Comparée aux attire l’attention à deux égards. possible avait déjà épuisé la machines de la concurrence avec La technique unique de pose performance dans une entreprise bobinage sur tambour, la vitesse de numérique de PreciFX, combinée client, ont servi de référence. bobinage a pu être augmentée de avec le Speedster FX, est parvenue 25% et le poids de bobine de 17%. à augmenter le poids de bobine de Vitesse de bobinage : 17% tout en maintenant le même Concurrence féroce sur le 300 m/min de plus diamètre. Un poids plus élevé pour un marché du Denim en croissance Grâce à une configuration optimale même volume signifie 17% de fil en Voici deux ans déjà, la production prévoyant une force de traction de fil plus dans le conteneur de transport de tissu Denim pulvérisait la barre réduite et un pas de rainure adapté ! Soit un avantage significatif au vu magique de 7 milliards de yards de façon variable, les experts de des coûts de logistique toujours par an. Le chiffre d’affaires annuel Schlafhorst ont atteint une vitesse plus élevés. La diminution des frais réalisé avec les jeans Denim dans le de bobinage de 1500 m/min. Cela de transport et d’entreposage qui monde entier est estimé à plus de représente 300 m/min ou 25% de en découle accroît directement la 66 milliards de dollars US. Que ce plus que sur la machine à bobinage compétitivité. Le deuxième avantage soit à titre d’application standard ou sur tambour du concurrent. Avec significatif de ce contenu de bobine premium, comme qualité de coton 1200 m/min pour ce fil, celle-ci plus élevé réside dans le temps de “classique” ou grâce au confort fonctionnait déjà à la limite de ses passage nettement plus long des agréable au porter, de plus en plus possibilités technologiques. Outre bobines croisées. Il en résulte des comme mélange de coton avec âme une vitesse de bobinage plus élevée, atouts attrayants pour le traitement en élasthanne : les articles Denim les technologues de Schlafhorst ont ultérieur : moins de frais de personnel jouissent toujours d’une demande également recensé moins de casses grâce à une moindre manipulation croissante. Depuis des années, de fil. Car le Speedster FX réduit la de bobine et une rentabilité accrue Schlafhorst est le fournisseur préféré tension de fil en particulier dans le grâce à la réduction des arrêts liés de nombreux fabricants, petits et dernier tiers critique des cops, ce qui au changement de bobines. gros, de fils Denim dans le monde diminue considérablement le nombre entier. Pour les clients de Schlafhorst, des casses par tension. Moins La meilleure bobine fait la course l’augmentation de la compétitivité d’arrêts de machine et des vitesses Qualité de fil et coûts ne sont par une hausse de productivité, de bobinage plus élevées entraînent cependant pas les seuls critères l’optimisation des déroulements de un bond énorme de productivité prépondérants sur le marché processus et la réduction des temps dans l’atelier de bobinage. âprement disputé des fils Denim. d’arrêt dans le traitement ultérieur Dans le traitement ultérieur, Machine Machine de la Autoconer X5 sont les facteurs les plus importants concurrence PreciFX + ce qui compte surtout c’est le pour agir avec succès sur le marché Speedster FX comportement au dévidage de la Vitesse de bobinage [m/min] 1 200 1 500 de masse exigeant. Tension du fil [cN] 74 50 bobine et de sa vitesse de livraison Angle de croisure [°] 30 variable, possible. PreciFX peut ici exploiter Une tonne de fil bobiné linéaire entièrement ses capacités. Par Format de bobine cylindrique cylindrique En vue de cette étude pratique, Poids de bobine [g] 3 950 4 600 exemple, avec un bord de bobine les technologues en textiles de Diamètre de bobine [mm] 320 320 rond du côté flanc dans le sens

25 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 PRODUCTENNIEUWS de livraison, on peut atteindre une ultérieur un produit de marque prisé vitesse de livraison plus élevée que aux excellentes propriétés. ne permet pas la bobine à tambour. Les résultats se transmettent à Le pas de rainure variable et donc d’autres qualité de fil. Dans le domaine l’angle de croisure variable sur toute du Denim, citons en particulier la constitution de la bobine réduisent les fils à âme élastiques en coton de surcroît le taux de casse de fil dans et élasthanne dont les agréables la plage de diamètre normalement caractéristiques au porter sont critique jusque 130 mm. Il s’agit là particulièrement appréciées. Pour des d’avantages uniques pour les clients fils de la qualité 75 tex (ou Ne 8) (CO/ Fig. 2: Des tests complexes effectués en laboratoire de Schlafhorst. ont prouvé la qualité exceptionnelle de fil EL), les technologues de Schlafhorst ont obtenu des taux d’augmentation Preuve impressionnante de la comparables pour la vitesse de supériorité technologique bobinage ainsi que des formats de Les efforts inhabituels consentis bobine de très grande qualité. Mais pour mener cette étude de la dans d’autres applications aussi, le technologie et de la productivité ont PreciFX et le Speedster FX procurent valu la peine. L’équipe d’experts aux filatures de continu à anneaux de de Schlafhorst a pu démontrer de Fig. 3: PreciFX est synonyme de qualité supérieure séduisants avantages concurrentiels de bobine, réglable de façon individuelle manière impressionnante la supériorité pour toutes les finesses de fil. L’équipe technologique de PreciFX et de Schlafhorst Technology est prête à Speedster FX et donc l’extraordinaire tout moment à en faire la preuve. prédominance de l’Autoconer. La combinaison optimale de ces deux groupes dégage d’énormes potentiels de qualité et de productivité. PreciFX et Speedster FX enflamment le turbo de la productivité dans le bobinage et garantissent indubitablement la qualité de fil Fig. 4: Nouveau design - grand format : la bobine et de bobine souhaitée. Plus de PreciFX séduit par une rentabilité supérieure mètres par minute, plus de fil par bobine et une excellente qualité de Agent en Belgique: fil ; les filatures acquièrent ainsi des LE CLAIR & MEERT nv Deinzesteenweg 25 avantages déterminants par rapport 9770 KRUISHOUTEM à la concurrence. En outre, PreciFX Tel.: 09 333 88 88 - Fax: 09 333 88 99 s’emploie à ce que chaque bobine Fig. 1: Speedster FX accroît la productivité et assure E-mail: [email protected] croisée fournisse dans le traitement la qualité de fil Website: www.leclairmeert.be SSM announce their brand-new machine for technical yarns The unique characteristics of tailor- The assembly winder DURO-TD made high-performance yarns is allows the plying of multiple ends/ helping such yarns to substitute yarns; independent of them being other classical materials in large of the same type or completely range of applications; thereby different. Optional intermingling continually increasing the usage of guarantees loop-free twists as well technical textiles and consequently as optimal unwinding during twisting. their consumption. Despite this The ability to run closed precision overall positive scenario production winding enables higher package lot sizes can vary greatly; from large densities, thereby increasing the ones for standard yarns to small knot-free length. ones for specialties, managing such Thanks to the commitment to variances poses a challenge for technological innovation, focused any producer. The SSM DURO-TW on cooperation with best partners in precision winder for all technical the field and with industry leaders, Fig. 1: the SSM DURO-TW 300 dpi yarns up to 50’000 dtex offers a new nowadays SSM is recognized as level of flexibility and winding quality innovative leader in Yarn Processing Agent for Belgium: LECLUYSE bvba in one machine; thereby ensuring and Winding – Swiss developer, Doorniksewijk 132 - 8500 KORTRIJK the fulfilment of all customer leader and inventor of the electronic Tel.: 056 22 30 22 - Gsm: 0475 71 51 57 requirements. yarn traverse system. E-mail: [email protected]

26 PRODUCTENNIEUWS UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 The yarn tells the story : reading fabric appearance with USTER testing systems Testing with USTER® TESTER 5 for reliable and accurate data. These weaving or knitting machines. But the and USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 shows laboratory testing instruments’ data effort of knitting or weaving a fabric how a fabric will look and feel… can tell the yarn quality story, and can be reduced to the minimum or Total customer satisfaction is every even predict how the final fabric will eliminated if you have a yarn test spinner’s goal and reputations depend look. report containing reliable information on it. Every critical yarn parameter relating to fabric appearance. The ® must to be tested to ensure that the Every quality parameter matters USTER TESTER 5, the heart of resultant fabric meets expectations, It’s also true that some spinners, textile quality control, provides testing whatever level of the market is being mainly serving the lower end of the data which can predict exactly how a ® supplied. All the evidence confirms it, market might believe that evenness fabric will look and feel. The USTER from the world’s most successful yarn (CVm) testing could be sufficient for CLASSIMAT 5 identifies the number producers, and from detailed practical their needs. But that view is mistaken: of disturbing thick and thin places, analysis. CVm is indeed a relevant yarn quality helping to assess fabric defects. There are two main types of yarn parameter, but to predict the final Together the parameters measured by ® ® user: those committed to weaving fabric of a yarn it is essential to test USTER TESTER 5 and the USTER or knitting high-quality fabrics, and other parameters too. CLASSIMAT 5 can help to assess fabric those which serve ‘commodity’ Comprehensive testing at the Uster appearance issues and downstream applications. Both groups have their Technologies laboratory in Switzerland performance. Both instruments own specific requirements, and it’s has shown that yarns with comparable correlate all quality parameters to the ® essential that spinners understand CVm values can produce fabrics with USTER STATISTICS value, for easy these needs and how to meet them. obvious differences in appearance. In comparison. What is clear, though, is that yarn the tests, 25 tex cotton yarns from ten Understanding yarn quality control testing is fundamental to customer different suppliers had insignificant is crucial if spinners want to develop satisfaction, in every case. differences in their CVm values, which and maintain a customer base to be could lead wrongly to the conclusion proud of. That will only be possible Major customers, demanding that the fabrics would look the same. when consistent quality is guaranteed requirements Further test data from the USTER® by hard facts and reliable data, not left The PALLAVAA Group is a successful TESTER 5 showed results for neps to chance or based on half-hearted spinning company in India, which were close in eight of the testing. Spinners without an efficient specializing in viscose, micro-modal, ten cases, in which the yarns had quality control concept risk losing a ® modal, polyester, bamboo, supima a nep value below the 25 USTER lot more than just the odd customer: TM and its blends, and pure cotton. STATISTICS Percentile (USP ). But they are putting the good name of their entire business on the line. We Established in 1995, the group has one of the yarns had a much higher are obliged to the customers, but also built a market-leading position, today nep value, even exceeding 50% of ® to our own reputation, to make sure supplying big-name brands. They are the USTER STATISTICS value. that fabric made from our yarns leads proud to be a supplier of NEXT, Marks Uster’s developers know from to satisfaction. A comprehensive & Spencer, H & M, Victoria’s Secret experience that fabric knitted from quality control is the least we can do. and others. Of course, PALLAVAA yarn with a nep level over 50% will is not alone in its desire to work show little pilling on the surface. The with major retailers. And the group yarns were also tested for hairiness, is quick to acknowledge that its and here the test results varied even ambitions in this direction depend on more widely. Values ranged from efficient quality control which meets below 25% USPTM to above 95%. the requirements of demanding yarn Fabrics made from yarns with such buyers. different hairiness values will never ever look the same, and as these Fig. 1: USTER® TESTER 5-S800 - The heart of textile In fact, long-standing customer quality control relationships, based on high test results demonstrate, spinners standards, call for a whole range testing only yarn evenness are of yarn quality parameters to be making a potentially serious error. controlled: evenness, imperfections They would clearly be wrong to place (neps, thin and thick places), hairiness, any confidence in producing yarns to remaining defects and foreign fibres. meet customer needs under these Measurements from the USTER® circumstances.” TESTER 5 provide reports and Fig. 2: USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 - The Yarn Classification analysis on evenness, imperfections Common practice or best System and hairiness, while remaining defects practice? Uster Technologies AG and foreign fibres are covered by Some yarn users have developed a Sonnenbergstrasse 10 ® the USTER CLASSIMAT 5. Quality- policy of taking sample packages CH - 8610 USTER conscious spinners have trusted in from a yarn lot and ‘testing’ them Direct: +41 43 366 38 80 these two instruments for decades by running the yarn through their Mobile: +41 79 916 02 91

27 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 PRODUCTENNIEUWS With Van de Wiele : fine, finer, finest … Introduction The handlook quality in reed 1000 Features of the new Handlook Customers are interested in creative dents/m and more …. Carpet Innovator HCiX2 and innovative products. So is the one The HCiX2 weave structure is used weaving machine who wants to buy a nice carpet which in reed densities from 300 d/m up Smart servo drive technology suits his room, house, apartment or to 1200 d/m and from six up to ten A new era has started with the any other place. colours, for classic as well as modern introduction of the innovator range. The tools to make these attractive designs. The implementation of the servo products are just a means but are so The most common quality in reed drive technology allows a flexibility important we can’t neglect to have a 1000 dents/m has a density of ten never seen in design, reed density close look. It is with pride we announce pile rows/cm, resulting in a carpet and operation of the Van de Wiele at Van de Wiele, we have the tools with 2.000.000 points/m², (see figure innovator weaving machines. you need to produce these creative, 2). Many different pile yarns can be Moreover, the production capacity has colourful, high-density carpets. woven on the HCiX2 : wool, acrylic, increased through better stability and polyester, polypropylene, silk, viscose, less mechanical parts. The three rapier handlook weave bamboo… Different pile heights can With the use of Smart Frames, where structure result in carpets with a weight between each of the ground heddle frames When we are talking about high- 2.4 and 3.6 kg/m². is driven by a separate servomotor density carpets, we are thinking (see figure 4), the advantages of this handmade carpets. The final aim of system are numerous. Smart frames machine made carpets has always allow easy changing of different been to weave perfect look-a-like ground weave structures directly handmade carpets. programmable from the controller. Van de Wiele has developed therefore a The use of servomotors also allows patented three-rapiers weave structure timing differences, different dwells (see figure 1) in order to achieve a and asymmetric motions to weave crystal sharp pile side and a hand-look carpets with a clean back and less backside (no warps visible). By using Fig. 2: hand-look carpet in reed 1000 dents/m with no incorporated yarns. These parameters three rapiers, the production is 50 % visible warp yarns at the back side and a crystal sharp are not programmable on an electronic pile side higher compared to similar qualities dobby. woven on a double-rapier machine. The Handlook Carpet Innovator The tight warp can be put in two The three-rapier technique gives HCiX2 weaving machine layers, leading to a higher weaving efficiency, a better pile height control many other advantages. As only The Handlook Carpet Innovator HCiX2 and carpets with more points that are the working pile yarns are moving machine (see figure 3) is a three- easy to fold. and the incorporated pile yarns are rapiers weaving machine, especially stationary, the machine has a higher developed for weaving hand-look weaving efficiency and the carpets carpets. The machine is based on have a cleaner back side. Moreover, the Innovator generation, which is a a thicker pile yarn can be used. The strong and rigid machine, equipped incorporated pile yarn is perfectly with the Van de Wiele state-of-the- straight, reducing the consumption of art servo drive technology for an dead pile yarn. As all pile tufts go to increased flexibility and productivity. Fig. 4: Smart Frames with twelve servomotors to drive the backside of the carpet, the pile Proof is given by many references in the ground heddle frames giving a higher weaving efficiency and a better quality of carpet fixation is perfect. Iran, Turkey, Belgium, China… Thanks to the three rapiers, some The Smart Filling Selector is driven by colour switches can be made over linear actuators, switching between the inside pick. The advanced and thick and thin fillings for the outside intelligent Design Master in the We@ rapiers. The new filling brakes and velink software system automatically updated pre-winders guarantee a eliminates possible mix-contours and smooth insertion of the filling. double points in the carpet design. The Handlook Carpet Innovator HCiX2 When respecting design rules and machine is foreseen with a Smart utilizing the above software, a perfect Cutting Motion. This programmable design on the pile side is possible. servo-driven cutting motion assures greater stability, less mechanical parts and wear, and better quality cutting necessary for higher pile densities. The selvedge yarns of the Smart Edges (SE), driven by small servomotors are Fig. 3: the three-rapiers Handlook Carpet Innovator programmable and installed under the Fig. 1: three-rapiers system giving 50 % more HCiX2 machine, with a Jacquard capacity of 30.000 production compared to a two-rapiers system weaving solenoids for weaving carpets in reed 1000 d/m, ten cumber board for easy access and in three shots colour frames, 3 m width adjustment in the width.

28 PRODUCTENNIEUWS UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 In order to reduce the power In order to get even closer to the real handmade carpet. consumption of all above mentioned handmade carpets, the Smart Frames The HCiX2 is a three-rapiers machine, servomotors, the HCiX2 machine has and the Jacquard machine allow inserting three fillings at each machine an energy bus. In the energy bus, weaving carpets with natural fringes, cycle, and at the end of the day, giving the energy flow between the different either by warp or by filling. 50 % more carpets compared to a motors is controlled. two-rapiers machine. Bright future The enhanced and reinforced HCiX2 Depending on the reed density, the Jacquard machine gives, with only one With the hand-look carpets, the Handlook Carpet Innovator HCiX2 is solenoid per harness band, the four excellent design density and clarity available in up to twenty colours. positions that are required for three- are shown in reed 1000 d/m and 1200 Until now, machine made carpets have rapiers weaving. The asymmetric d/m. Unique and amazing hand-look never been as close to handmade. settings and the unique possibility to carpets in reed 1000 d/m - ten colours With Van de Wiele: fine, finer, finest… put the pile yarns in layers, increase and reed 1200 d/m - eight colours are the efficiency. available. Significant Jacquard capacities allow Different piles such as acrylic, Michel Van de Wiele nv weaving many qualities in different polyester, viscose, bamboo, silk or Carpet and Velvet Weaving Machines Michel Van de Wielestraat 7 wool are possible. Perfect pile fixation, reed densities (from 300 d/m up to BE-8510 KORTRIJK (Marke) 1200 d/m) in different widths (from 3 clear backside, natural fringes by Tel.: +32 56 24 32 11 m to 5 m) and different numbers of warp or filling, carpets that are easy Fax: +32 56 24 35 40 colours. to fold … it is a perfect look-a-like E-mail: [email protected] Verdol’s LTC CY twisting and cabling machine Once again, Verdol is demonstrating being easily removable. With the LTC customers are always looking for an its competence across the twisting CY, we offer an optimum of flexibility ideal machine dedicated for small lots. process and new production methods! thanks to the autarkic design of its With the LTC CY, it enables sample Indeed, further to many audits with individual compact motor spindle. packages produced at the same time customers through R&D, Quality, Indeed the LTC CY combines twisting, with small lots on one machine. Then, Laboratory and Creative managers, cabling, direct cabling positions with sampling can become “for extras” thus the Verdol company decided in 2012 single drives. Then, each spindle can ensuring an optimal and efficient use of to share its expertise through a lab be individually and remotely set with your machine. machine, the LTC CY suitable for two- setting parameters. Different raws, So how easy does it become to for-one twisting, cabling and direct several twists, multi-ply yarns for operate together on six positions: hybrid constructions become now cabling process. - one very small lot of 1100/1/2 dtex possible. As far as there is no panel PET BCF on position #1, From the concept to the product or touchscreen PLC for the machine - quality control readings onto the In tune with fast moving fashion control, your own personal computer is dedicated into a perfect LTC drive position #2 running a 1400/1/2 dtex trends, this is our motto! Therefore, and control system. Then, your entire PTT BCF, we have been working for several computer stays at your fingertips - energy saving tests with heaviest years with people which always look from your desktop to files, with your yarn count and optimized spindle for challenging markets with new softwares and messenger …… for speed with PP BCF onto position #3, applications, involved in every aspects more flexibility! - last but not least, together with a new of yarn control or in charge of lab 5-ply yarn construction operated works for sampling. Friendly IT control system from #4 to #6 positions with a PA66 Into the flooring industry for rugs and Today, we all need, together with a BCF! carpets, most of big carpet mills are twister, tools providing insight into coming out now with environmental the relationship between energy product declarations. Due to those consumption and production; it does new environmental performance goals, allow quick identification of energy lab work may become increasingly saving potential. Thanks to the LTC important role from concept to the web based IT control system, you can product passing through design, easily set, save and share all textile data development and sampling. For a from your recipes. Our Monitoring Unit maximum benefit in terms of new System for Textile machines (M.U.S.T.), production methods, Verdol is offering allows also combined presentation of Fig. 1: the Verdol’s LTC CY twisting and cabling machine the LTC CY, a specific product instant data from your twister thus combining all the advantages of our showing key performance indicators Agent for Belgium: well-known technologies and services. at a glance! HERBERT nv - Ludwig Braeckman Molenstraat 45 Amazing ergonomy! The best flexible machine for very 9820 MERELBEKE small production lots Tel.: 09 223 23 44 The LTC CY is designed with a Fax: 09 225 94 72 compact and fashionable look, fast to Typically for commercial market’s E-mail: [email protected] unload from lorry, ready to start and actors involved in carpet tiles, Website: www.herbert.be

29 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 PRODUCTENNIEUWS Creating Confidence - Securing Competitive Advantages BRÜCKNER and MATESA are the best examples For 65 years BRÜCKNER is known as MATESA: able to tell instantly the prices for one worldwide leading in the production We bought the first BRÜCKNER cubic meter of gas, on kilowatt-hour of machinery and line systems for machine, a stenter with six zones, of power, one kilogram coal or one the finishing and coating of textiles, in 2001 and until today it is still litre of oil. Today all of these prices woven technical fabric, nonwovens operating perfectly. The concept of are omnipresent for our customers. and other planiform materials. the half-zone-wise air circulation has BRÜCKNER deals intensively with All machines are manufactured convinced us. We found that the this topic already for many years and exclusively in BRÜCKNER’s own temperature distribution across the therefore our machines are working site in Germany and the technology complete fabric width is absolutely efficiently and with optimized energy centre at the headquarters in uniform and this is essential for our consumption. This subject has top Leonberg near Stuttgart offers large high-quality products. For this reason priority for all of our new developments and sufficiently possibilities for tests we bought in the following years many and enhancements. with the customer’s products and for other BRÜCKNER stenters. the development of new products. MATESA: Matesa Tekstil A.S. has BRÜCKNER: This corresponds with our company’s been established in 1989 in Up to now you had only relaxation philosophy. The reduction of our energy Kahramanmaras and is now one dryers made by other producers in costs is one of the most important of the biggest textile companies in your factory. What made you now buy measures in our company. The pricing Turkey. In total Matesa has 2500 a BRÜCKNER relaxation dryer? pressure in the sales of our products employees and is divided into four is already today extremely high and production sites: MATESA: the energy costs are increasing. If 1. spinning mill with a daily production The innovative concept of the new we want to remain competitive in the capacity of 100 tons of yarn, three-passage dryer was simply future, we have to start at this point and for this BRÜCKNER is the optimal 2. production site for knitted fabric convincing. It is an absolutely perfect partner. with approx. 150 circular knitting idea to heat and pre-dry the fabric in machines and several stenters and the first fabric passage with exhaust BRÜCKNER: relaxation dryers, air from the second and third fabric 3. production site for woven fabrics passage. This requires no additional What else did convince you with with approx. 200 looms for thermal energy. Today we know that BRÜCKNER? gabardine, velvet and shirting, particularly the energy costs are an MATESA: 4. production site for denim with extremely high portion of the overall approx. 200 looms and finishing production cost and this dryer concept BRÜCKNER is a family business lines. starts exactly at this point. run by its proprietor and produces exclusively in Germany. This gives us MATESA’s philosophy is based BRÜCKNER: confidence which is very important for on clear principles: top quality, And how is the production capacity of us in our business life. And the fact fast service and highest reliability the machine? that we are continuously in contact provided by a modern machinery suits us. No matter if before or after the which is always state-of-the-art. One MATESA: purchase of a line, either BRÜCKNER of the reasons why MATESA buys itself keeps in touch with us or my since 2001 BRÜCKNER machines. The machine is in production since technical staff or their representative Just recently a BRÜCKNER line has approximately one year. Depending on the type of fabric we are producing up in Turkey INTER TEKSTIL. This is also been set into operation - a relaxation to 20 tons per day and we achieve an important criterion for us. For us dryer of the RX3 type with three very good residual shrinkage values. BRÜCKNER is not only the supplier of fabric passages and an integrated But much more important is the our machines but also a partner which innovative energy concept. specific energy consumption such should accompany us over the years. With great pleasure Mr. Calik, as m³ of gas per kg of fabric. This founder and Director of MATESA, is clearly better with BRÜCKNER looks back on the 25 years of the than with other suppliers. The energy company’s history. He is proud that consumption of BRÜCKNER’s MATESA is today one of the top 10 relaxation dryer is - depending on the Turkish textile companies and one process - by 15-30 % lower than the of the top 400 companies in Turkey results of the other dryer producers. in general. BRÜCKNER: BRÜCKNER: Some years ago most of our

Mr. Calik when did you buy the first customers had absolutely no feeling Fig. 1: BRÜCKNER POWER-RELAX3 relaxation dryer BRÜCKNER machine? for this parameter. Almost nobody was at MATESA

30 BEDRIJVENNIEUWS UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 Dyneema® will be used by Republic of Korea (South Korea) army for multi-purpose body armour program DSM Dyneema, the inventor and personnel to carry more equipment, The adoption of composite materials manufacturer of ultra-high molecular operate with greater agility, speed in general, and Dyneema® in weight polyethylene (UHMwPE) fibre, and comfort for longer periods of particular, meets the needs for soldier branded as Dyneema®, and world time. modernization programs for life leader in life protection materials and The Multi-Purpose Body Armour protection around the world, and the South Korean Multi-purpose Body high performance fibres, is proud Program is part of South Korea’s ® Armour program is another testament to announce that Dyneema will efforts in soldier modernization, be used as the ballistic protection to DSM Dyneema’s innovative success. seeking to equip defence personnel material of choice and key solution With our expanded product portfolio with lightweight armour that provides for enhanced lightweight armour for and advanced innovation platform, DSM enhanced protection over a large area the Republic of Korea (South Korea) Dyneema continues to lead the market of the body, thus increasing protection Army Multi-purpose Body Armour by offering our customers globally the and survivability. Program. opportunity to significantly reduce We are extremely pleased that This multi-year program will see the body armour weight while maintaining Dyneema® will be a ballistic Republic of Korea Army equipped enhanced ballistic protection. with bullet-resistant vests and insert protection material of choice for If you have any questions or requests both vests and inserts for the multi- panels that incorporate UHMwPE please do not hesitate to contact: purpose body armour program in unidirectional material from DSM DSM Dyneema - Adrian Koh South Korea. Dyneema® provides Dyneema, capable of protecting Phone: +65 6908 0316 / +65 6908 0550 multiple benefits as a lighter weight against a wide range of ballistic E-mail: [email protected] and more durable solution that does threats including fragments and or EMG - Anouk Luykx not compromise ballistic protection rifle ammunitions. Production of the PO Box 290, 4600 AG Bergen op Zoom compared to conventional materials. bullet-resistant vests and inserts will Phone: +31 164 317 017 It allows modern military defence start this year. E-mail: [email protected] Oerlikon Neumag’s new staple fibre plant for the production of smaller lot sizes by Claudia Henkel and Mathias Groener-Rothermel There is a constant increase in modernized technology and a capacity change with significantly lower waste the demand for manmade fibres of up to 15 tons per day result in rates than with conventional plants on from polyester, polypropylene or efficient production. The new plant is the market. bicomponent fibres for the production aimed at fibre producers with small of nonwovens used in the manufacture lot sizes and downstream integrators 1000 m/min of, for example, geotextiles, filters, and who, in future, want to produce fibres In order to economically produce small automotive or special applications. in-house, enabling them to produce capacities up to 15 tons per day, a and further develop end products with In 2015, global demand of 3.2 million significantly higher production speed maximum quality control. tons of fibre has been forecast(1) for than with conventional one-step the production of carded nonwovens, In addition, fibre producers now have processes is necessary. The fibre tow which corresponds to an average the possibility of economically serving produced in three spinning positions annual growth rate of more than niche markets that, up to now, have is drawn and crimped at 1000 meters been unprofitable owing to their low 5%. The average requirement for the per minute with the Staple FORCE S sales volume. production of carded nonwovens is 1000. The plant’s compact construction is around 15-20 tons of fibres per day To attain these high process speeds, per plant. the key to economical and flexible production. The simple handling, the draw process has been changed. To date, it has not been possible to beginning with the spin packs to Whereas previously the drawing was economically produce such small be mounted from the top, an easy effected by means of large drawing lot sizes. However, with the Staple threading of the fibre tow with a units, steam and water baths, the FORCE S 1000, Oerlikon Neumag has threading injector up to the crimper, drawing with the Staple FORCE S introduced a plant onto the market to to the short paths from the spinning 1000 takes place in a dry condition solve this issue. positions to the baling press allow the over godet duos. Staple FORCE S 1000 to be operated Oerlikon Neumag has used this Staple FORCE S 1000 by only two operators. technology successfully in its bulked This new staple fibre plant is The combination of a compact continuous filament (BCF) yarn plants economical, flexible and compact. construction and quick operability for many years. Owing to this simplified A moderate initial investment, a enables a fast, efficient product process, steam and heat transfer

31 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 BEDRIJVENNIEUWS media (HTM) are no longer required as For highest precision energy media. The water application Highest demands are not only made in the process is significantly reduced, on the spinning system, the drawing thus leading to a distinct reduction of and crimper, but also on the cutter, the energy requirement. which has to accommodate the fast This changed technology also process speed. results in a very compact design of The NMC-H 290 is best laid out for this the plant. All components from the extruder up to the baling press are speed due to its horizontally aligned installed on a total area of just 450 m2. cutting principle. Staple lengths from Special machine foundations are not 1.5 to 150 mm can easily be attained necessary; standard industry flooring with highest precision. is adequate. The new staple fibre plant was first introduced to the market in April at Crimper Technology Index 14 in Geneva, Switzerland. At production speeds of more than Picture 2: the stuffer box principle guarantees easy 1000 m/min, there are high demands operation on the crimper for the Staple FORCE S 1000, which has been redesigned (1) The Future of Nonwovens to 2015 – Global Market according to the stuffer box crimping Forecasts, Phillip Mango, page 74 principle. The new crimper ensures easy tow threading with a threading Agent for Belgium: injector due to an open access. LE CLAIR & MEERT nv Therefore the bearings for the rollers Deinzesteenweg 25 9770 KRUISHOUTEM are mounted on one side. All stuffer Tel.: 09 333 88 88 box parts are easily accessible and Picture 1: on this three spinning position the Staple Fax: 09 333 88 99 can therefore be quickly and simply FORCE S 1000 reaches spinning speeds of up to E-mail: [email protected] exchanged. 1000 m/min Website: www.leclairmeert.be SSM Giudici conclude a larger order SSM GIUDICI conclude a larger order The machines combine a proven The machines will be supplied in of twenty-three machines (3000 straight texturing zone through five stages and by the end of 2016 spindles) with one of the worlds the entire texturing zone for the all twenty-three machines (3000 most recognized manufacturer of production of fine and medium count spindles) will be in full operation. high quality polyamide yarns. false-twist textured polyamide and The fast growing synthetic fibre polypropylene yarns, a low machine market requires reliable high- profile for user friendly and efficient quality processing machines. One operation and a sturdy design of the worlds most recognized resulting in low maintenance cost. manufacturer of high-quality One SSM DP5-T DIGICONE® polyamide yarns has read the signs fastflex™ air-texturing machine and is investing in new machines to completes the order. The well- increase their capacity. known DP5-T is designed for the SSM GIUDICI will deliver a total flexible production of high-quality Fig. 1: a SSM GIUDICI TG30-A automatic false-twist texturing machine of twenty TG30-A automatic false- air-jet textured yarns. All types of twist texturing machines, one TG30- continuous filament yarns (PES, PA, Agent for Belgium: LECLUYSE bvba AE automatic false-twist texturing PP, glass, etc.) can be processed to a Doorniksewijk 132 machine with integrated elastomer large range of yarns for a wide variety 8500 KORTRIJK unrolling device and one RG12- of applications such as apparel, Tel.: 056 22 30 22 DTB automatic false-twist texturing automotive, home furnishing, sewing Gsm: 0475 71 51 57 machine for coarse yarn counts. threads and technical yarns. E-mail: [email protected]

Het volgende UNITEX-dossiernummer zal handelen over het thema: The factory of the future

32 BEDRIJVENNIEUWS UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 TOSHIBA TEC Inkjet Business Group targets the label and packaging market TOSHIBA TEC has a large worldwide heads. TOSHIBA TEC inkjet heads More information on TOSHIBA TEC installed base of piezo-electronic are renowned for their reliability, can be found at www.toshibatec. DOD inkjet heads in a wide range consistency and high print quality. co.jp/en/products/industrial/inkjet/ of industrial applications. TOSHIBA The label and packaging industry is Industrial Inkjet Integration And TEC Inkjet Business Group has now an important and strategic market Consultancy Services - IACS additionally targeted its technical for TOSHIBA TEC Inkjet Business European Toshiba TEC Inkjet expertise and engineering precision Group. LabelExpo Americas is a key Technology Centre on the label and packaging market. event to showcase our dedicated Jasmine Geerinckx Steenweg 149, BE-9810 EKE, Belgium This new focus will be welcomed inkjet heads, an array of innovative Tel.: +32 499 268 977 by digital press manufacturers, who solutions for the label market Website: www.iacs.be for the TOSHIBA until now have been very restricted and other narrow web industrial TEC Inkjet Business Group in their choice of industrial inkjet markets. or : www.toshibatec.co.jp Picanol’s training centre and test area in Ieper inaugurated by minister president Geert Bourgeois End September Picanol inaugurated train the technicians of its worldwide has been housed in a new space its new training centre and new customers on its weaving machines with two loading docks and one test and shipping area in Ieper. under optimal conditions. loading space. Every day, trucks The official inauguration took The new training centre measures with containers depart from this area place in the presence of Mr. Geert about 600 m² and also houses a to take Picanol weaving machines to Bourgeois, Minister-President of guest centre and several meeting all corners of the world. the Flemish Government. Since rooms. improving the competitiveness The Picanol Group through further productivity and Focus on quality Through its division Weaving quality improvements and targeted Machines, Picanol develops, investments is a top priority, an manufactures and sells high-tech investment program for an amount weaving machines based on air (air- of 17.5 million euros in Ieper was jet) or rapier technology. Picanol approved in 2013. supplies weaving machines to This investment plan includes a weaving mills worldwide, and also new training centre, a new test and offers its customers such products shipping area for weaving machines and services as weaving accessories, and the purchase of several training, upgrade kits and spare production machines. parts. For more than 75 years, Fig. 1: the inauguration of the new training centre and test zone by Minister-President Geert Bourgeois marks Picanol has played a pioneering role Training takes your talent further a new milestone for Picanol in Ieper in the industry worldwide, and is one of the current world leaders in Well trained employees are important The new test area replaces the old weaving machine production. for optimum machine and plant one and is equipped with 24 test performance. The weaving industry stations. All weaving machines The division Industries covers is no exception : the quality of the leaving the assembly lines are all other activities of the group: fabric and the performance of the mechanically and electronically Proferro comprises the foundry and machine are determined not only tested in the new test area before the group’s machining activities. by the input materials and the they go to the customers, enabling It produces cast iron parts for machine itself, but also to a large Picanol to offer an even higher e.g. compressors, agricultural extent by the way the materials and quality and reliability. After all, machinery, and Picanol weaving the machine are handled. Picanol quality is essential and therefore machines. Through PsiControl, the naturally attaches the highest the highest priority of Picanol. group specializes in the design, importance to good training, and so Following testing and final check, development, manufacturing and last year it was decided to invest in a the machines are put on a moving support of a.o. controllers for state-of-the-art training centre. With carpet, where accessories are added various industries. Melotte develops three fully equipped training rooms and packaging of the machines is and produces innovative product (each with two weaving machines, done. After the packaging line, the solutions using Direct Digital cut models, mini-workshop etc.) machines are placed in the buffer Manufacturing (DDM) and Near-to- covering a total area of 270 m², the zone awaiting shipment. Since the Net-Shape Manufacturing (NNSM) new training centre allows Picanol to summer of 2014, the shipping area technologies.

33 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 BEDRIJVENNIEUWS In addition to the headquarters in employees worldwide and is listed For more information: PICANOL nv Ieper (Belgium), the Picanol Group on NYSE Euronext Brussels (PIC). Erwin Devloo, has production facilities in Asia and The Picanol Group was founded marketing communication manager Karel Steverlyncklaan 15 - 8900 IEPER Europe, linked to its own worldwide in 1936 and celebrated its 75th Tel.: 057 222 090 - Fax: 057 222 248 sales and service network. The anniversary in 2011. E-mail: [email protected] Picanol Group employs some 2000 Website: www.picanol.be Van de Wiele invests $5 million in Chattanooga USA Van de Wiele, one of the biggest tufting across the entire market.” not only establishing a presence manufacturers of high-performing “We are all looking forward to this in Chattanooga, but making machines for the textile industry exciting new chapter for the Van de Chattanooga operations central with headquarters in Belgium, Wiele group of Companies in the to their organization. It’s always announces a $5 million investment USA. The new facility will provide exciting to add to our growing list in a new facility in Chattanooga TN. service and support for all of Van of international companies, and I’m Following last year’s acquisition of de Wiele’s operations in the USA, glad to see Van de Wiele building the tufting machine manufacturer with the focal point being a ‘state of on Chattanooga’s expertise in the Cobble, Van de Wiele has confirmed the art’ sampling and development flooring industry,” said Hamilton that they are to build a new facility centre for tufting.” County Mayor Jim Coppinger. in the area. The new facility will “Chattanooga is the birthplace of The Van de Wiele Group of be on Relocation Way, Ooltewah tufting with a long tradition in the Companies, which has about a (Chattanooga) just a few miles from flooring industry,” said Charles dozen production units worldwide, is VDW’s US manufacturing Plant. Beauduin C.E.O. of the parent one of the world’s leading suppliers Following the building completion, company Michel Van de Wiele nv to the textile industry. In addition to Van de Wiele plans to move all of its’ in Belgium. “It is also home to a its’ activities in the textile industry US operations to the Chattanooga number of businesses which are Van De Wiele is also involved in area, a process they hope to have market leaders in other fields which bulk handling, micro-electronics, completed by the end of 2014. “The bodes well for the future of the area. and drives which it supplies to other construction of this new facility will Our investment in this new facility industries. put us in an ideal location to support is a clear indication of our intent the carpet industry,” said Bob to build on Cobble’s long tradition Michel Van de Wiele nv Harding, president of Van de Wiele. in tufting, as well as continuing to Carpet and Velvet Weaving Machines “Its proximity to Atlanta with the develop our support for the US Danny Bourgois improved air links to the rest of the textile industry as a whole.” Michel Vandewielestraat 7 BE-8510 KORTRIJK (Marke) USA and Central America will also “Van de Wiele is a leader in the Tel.: +32 56 24 32 11 put us in a better position to support global textile industry, and it’s Fax: +32 56 24 35 40 our activities in knitting, weaving and great to see a world class supplier E-mail: [email protected] C&A Foundation steunde Pink Ribbon met exclusieve draagtas voor boezemvriendinnen Traditiegetrouw was oktober dé Pink Daarom steunt C&A Pink Ribbon bij elke aankoop een stempel van Ribbon-maand. ten volle. C&A wil meer zijn dan 1 euro. Dus, één stempel leverde Samen met Pink Ribbon en andere een louter commerciële organisatie 1 euro op, een tweede stempel commerciële partners ging C&A en vindt het belangrijk om haar 2 euro, een derde stempel 3 euro, ook dit jaar de strijd aan tegen verantwoordelijkheid in de enz. Dit bedrag kon je gebruiken als borstkanker, een thema dat C&A maatschappij op te nemen. korting bij je aankoop of schenken nauw aan het hart ligt. Borstkanker aan Pink Ribbon. Bedoeling was om is een thema dat heel wat vrouwen Deel je draagtas voor het goede de draagtas na het shoppen zoveel bezighoudt. doel! mogelijk door te geven aan vrienden, Als modebedrijf spreekt C&A veel Ook dit jaar stond de actie in het familie of collega’s, om zo het bedrag vrouwen aan en binnen het bedrijf teken van ‘boezemvriendinnen’. voor Pink Ribbon te verhogen. werken ook grotendeels vrouwen. Bij We hadden er bewust voor Op 23 en 24 oktober ontving je in alle C&A zijn we ervan overtuigd dat elke gekozen om de succesvolle actie C&A-winkels in België en Luxemburg vrouw de kans moet krijgen om zich van vorig jaar te herhalen. Via de roze Pink Ribbon-draagtas die je goed in haar vel te voelen en er elke verschillende mediakanalen en het twee weken lang, tot 7 november, dag opnieuw fantastisch uit te zien, eigen winkelnetwerk verdeelden kon delen. Ook de etalages waren en dat in haar rol als moeder, vrouw, we draagtassen. Wie met de tas gedurende de maand oktober in een echtgenote en (boezem)vriendin. kwam shoppen bij C&A ontving Pink Ribbon-kleedje gestoken en

34 BEDRIJVENNIEUWS / ALGEMEEN NIEUWS UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 de verkoopsters speldden met veel bouwen. Naast de samenwerking enthousiasme het roze lintje op. met Pink Ribbon, steunt C&A Foundation dit jaar ook Beyond the De C&A Foundation, een hart voor Moon. de samenleving Via de C&A Foundation steunt Voor meer informatie: C&A al jaren waardevolle projecten C&A België/Belgique-Luxembourg in de samenleving. Met winkels in Sven Verresen, Communication & vele steden voelt C&A zich immers Fashion PR Jean Monnetlaan 1 nauw verbonden met de lokale BE-1804 VILVOORDE gemeenschap. C&A kiest ervoor Tel.: +32 (0)2 257 69 76 om met een beperkt aantal goede Fax: +32 (0)2 257 69 59 doelen een langetermijnrelatie uit te E-mail: [email protected] Fig. 1: de C&A-draagtas Dr. Helmut Mälzer of European Bedding Industries’ Association, winner of the 2014 EBIA Award The European Bedding Industries’ created the EBIA Award to promote The only way to find the right Association (EBIA), the umbrella creativity and innovation within mattress is through extensive testing organization of the bedding industry this sector. Next to becoming an and expert advice in the shop where in Europe, announced dr. Helmut honorary member of EBIA, the winner you buy it. According to dr. Mälzer Mälzer as the winner of the 2014 is also rewarded a 5000 euros grant an old lumpy mattress can give rise EBIA Award. Working as a resident to support his/her ongoing work in to back problems and mattresses orthopaedist in Berlin, Helmut the field of sleep. should be replaced after seven to Mälzer is a founding member of the ten years. German and International Society Award winner for Extracorporeal Shock Wave This year, EBIA’s members Investment in the future Therapy on the Musculoskeletal overwhelmingly voted in favour In recognizing Helmut Mälzer’s System (DIGEST). He currently of the dr. Helmut Mälzer from contribution to facilitating networking serves as vice-president of the Germany. Over the years dr. across the healthcare sector, the German Professional Association Mälzer has worked hard to 2014 EBIA Award underlines the of Specialists in Orthopaedics and improve and intensify networking Association’s commitment to the Trauma Surgery (BVOU) and is between all the stakeholders in overall wellbeing of consumers and also a member of various medical the health policy sector, organising EBIA’s firm intention to support this associations. Over the years dr. and defining the professional kind of contribution. EBIA believes Mälzer has worked hard to facilitate framework for orthopaedic and that the efforts of Helmut Mälzer and networking among stakeholders trauma surgeons among others. A others like him will help underscore across the healthcare industry. As qualified orthopaedist, dr. Mälzer the link between good and relaxing an expert orthopaedist he has also specialised in orthopaedics, trauma sleep on the one hand and health, drawn public attention to the impact surgery, rheumatology, chiropractic, wellbeing and energy in daytime on of a good mattress on sleep quality. acupuncture and pain management the other hand. This will benefit With this award, EBIA recognizes by 1990. He opened a practice in society as a whole which the bedding Helmut Mälzer’s dedication to sleep Berlin in 1991. industry strives to serve with ever- quality and his bridge building efforts Since 2003 dr. Mälzer has also been improved products and services. with the bedding industry. EBIA will a member of the Berlin General therefore further strengthen its ties Medical Council and the Berlin For more information, with dr. Mälzer, to pave the way for Medical Supply Committee as well the improvement of the sleeping please visit www.europeanbedding.eu as a board member of the Physicians For more information about EBIA, experience of consumers all over Initiative of the Berlin MEDI please contact: Europe. Association. As an orthopaedist dr. Mr. Endre Varga – Secretary General EBIA Mälzer has repeatedly underlined the E-mail: [email protected] The EBIA Award importance of a good mattress as or [email protected] Being the European representative a factor in sleep quality and good or of an industry producing quality health in the press. For dr. Mälzer Yapado, Sarah Van Oostende products aimed at the wellness a mattress has to be comfortable E-mail: [email protected] and comfort of its customers, EBIA regardless of your sleeping position. Tel.: +32 9 230 99 04

Het ideale geheugen laat ook ruimte voor vergetelheid (Gys Miedema)

35 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 ALGEMEEN NIEUWS Een land zonder industrie is geen land meer! Fedustria News Nr. 18 van 28 juli 2014 Textieltopman Jean-François Gribomont

CEO Jean-François Gribomont vecht Hoe gaat het in uw sector? steeds meer. Er zijn in Vlaanderen als een leeuw om Utexbel boven JEAN-FANCOIS GRIBOMONT: “De wel impulsen gegeven, maar dan water te houden. laatste crisis heeft de textielnijverheid door ambtenaren die er niets van En passant helpt hij als voorzitter zeer zwaar getroffen. Het mag dan kennen. Zij maken plannen die ver van Fedustria mee de zware kar te gaan om een waaier van bedrijven verwijderd zijn van de werkelijkheid. trekken van de hele textiel-, hout- die weinig met elkaar te maken Ze hebben ons de jongste jaren om en meubelsector. “Neem het van mij hebben - van tapijt en weefsels advies gevraagd. Wij hebben na aan, het is enorm vermoeiend.” voor kleding tot meubelstoffen en lang studeren en brainstormen zeer concrete maatregelen voorgesteld, In het kantoor van Gribomont matrasstiksels - we kampen wel vaak niet dezelfde problemen. En en een rapport voor de administratie. hangt prominent een schilderij van En dan volgt die totaal andere zijn grootvader. Op zijn verzoek we gaan mondjesmaat achteruit. Niet alleen is de consumptie flauw denksporen. die ongelofelijk moeilijk ging Gribomont in 1976 in het in Europa, zodat de omzet nog altijd zijn. Waarom vragen ze ons advies, familiebedrijf werken. Utexbel in niet op het niveau van 2009 uitkomt. als er toch niets mee wordt gedaan? Ronse maakte toen enkel producten Er is ook een structureel probleem. Ik ben daarvoor zeer kwaad geweest voor regenkleding. Gribomont, Onze industrie is in Europa en op minister-president Kris Peeters.” die zo een carrière als hoogleraar België amper welkom. We hebben bedrijfseconomie aan de Universiteit de indruk dat we vergeten zijn Wat had u gevraagd? van Boston aan zich voorbij liet door Europa en onze politici. We GRIBOMONT: “In de textielsector gaan, transformeerde Utexbel tot proberen dat te veranderen, maar blijven enkel nog de bedrijven een gediversifieerde textielgroep het lukt nauwelijks. Spijtig genoeg overeind die innovatief zijn en nieuwe met 800 werknemers en klanten in zal het waarschijnlijk pas het geval producten creëren. Ik kan u tot op de zeventig landen. Gribomont kreeg zijn wanneer onze sector dood is. euro zeggen hoeveel wij spenderen Utexbel eindjaren tachtig in handen Maar we blijven vechten. Ik wil niet aan innovatie. Vorig jaar was dat drie via een management-buy-out, en sterven zonder te roepen.” miljoen euro. Wel. Frankrijk heeft controleert nu samen met zijn broer beslist dat op zulke investeringen 98 procent van het bedrijf. Komt er echt geen hulp? geen sociale lasten moeten worden Intussen loopt hij al bijna vier GRIBOMONT: “Ik ontmoet veel betaald. Zo’n maatregel zou ook hier decennia het vuur uit de sloffen om politici. Ze hebben begrip voor een enorme boost betekenen.” Utexbel boven water te houden. De onze problemen, maar doen er 63-jarige CEO trekt zich overigens zeer weinig aan. Soms heb je het Zonder innovatie ben je dood. niet enkel het lot van het eigen gevoel dat ze het probleem echt niet GRIBOMONT: “Absoluut. Dat is wat bedrijf aan. De voorbije vijftien jaar begrijpen, en dat ze zeer ver van de we steeds hebben verteld aan de zette hij zich ook sterk in voor de werkelijkheid staan. De industriële Vlaamse regering. En daar komt Europese textielfederaties Euratex politiek van Vlaanderen is nul niets uit.” en Eurocoton. En sinds vorig jaar komma nul. Vlaanderen is ook zeer is hij voorzitter van Fedustria, de lang pretentieus geweest, zo van ‘wij Het wordt u onmogelijk gemaakt federatie van textiel-, hout- en zijn dé regio’. Maar Vlaanderen is om hier te werken? meubelproducenten, en staat hij op zo klein.” de barricaden voor andere gekwelde GRIBOMONT: “Dat wordt mij “Ook de administratie is een sectoren. onmogelijk gemaakt door allerlei nachtmerrie. De administratieve niveaus. Ik ben ook woedend op “Ze hebben me gevraagd”, verklaart belemmering in Vlaanderen is Europa. Neem nu het vrijhandels- Gribomont. “Ze zeiden: ‘Jij bent nog ongelofelijk. Controle na controle akkoord van de EU met Vietnam, de enige die vecht voor ons’.” doen ze hier, en dat kost een bom waaraan Europa werkt. Voor de Al eist die decennialange strijd stilaan geld. Er wordt nooit bekeken of die Europese textielnijverheid wordt dat zijn tol. “Neem het van mij aan, het controles wel nodig zijn. Als je tien een grote catastrofe, maar Europa is enorm vermoeiend. Je moet altijd jaar lang dezelfde controle hebt wil dat er per se doordrukken. met iedere partij gaan discussiëren, gehad, en tien jaar met dezelfde Niemand begrijpt waarom. Als je iedereen overtuigen. Dat vreet resultaten, moet er dan nog wel daarover vragen stelt aan Europa, energie. Ik blijf dat doen, maar het een elfde controle zijn? Ze blijven krijg je geen antwoord. Als je in maakt het leven zuur en kapot. Je ook telkens nieuwe controles België vragen stelt, klinkt het dat ze bent altijd nerveus en kwaad, en dat uitvinden. Als je in een fabriek een niet op de hoogte worden gehouden. is niet mijn karakter.” Komt daarbij deur wil veranderen, heb je 27 Vergeet niet dat zestig procent van dat de dagen erg lang zijn, al heeft handtekeningen nodig. Dat vreet de export uit Vietnam bestaat uit dat toch ook een voordeel. “God energie en tijd.” textiel en schoeisel. Wie is er dan heeft me slechts drie tot vier uur “De kracht van de inertie van de betrokken? Wij toch? Het grootste slaap per nacht gegeven. Dat is zeer ambtenarij in België is de jongste jaren bedrijf in Vietnam is Vinatex, dat weinig, maar laat me wel toe iedere gegroeid. Kabinetten hebben steeds zeventig procent afhangt van de dag twintig uur te werken.” minder te zeggen, de ambtenarij Vietnamese staat. Het heeft onlangs

36 ALGEMEEN NIEUWS UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 opnieuw 600 miljoen dollar gekregen je in Bangladesh, Cambodja of U kreeg de bijnaam ‘de José Bové om paraat te zijn wanneer het Vietnam, dan mag je doen wat je van de textiel’, naar de bekende akkoord er komt, om Europa kapot wil, iedereen applaudisseert, ook al Franse boerenleider en anders- te maken.” biedt je geen sociale toegevoegde globalist. Voelt u zich soms niet “Ik heb er in het Europese Parlement waarde. Maar als je in België veeleer een don quichot? ook bij heel wat politici voor gepleit tewerkstelling creëert en veel geld GRIBOMONT: “Je mag het zo niet dat Reach (het Europese programma verdient, ben je een bandiet, een zien. De eerste keer dat ik begon dat het gebruik van gevaarlijke dief. Maak je verlies of vind je geen over een verplichte invoering van chemicaliën aan banden moet geld, ben je onbeduidend. En ga je het label ‘made in Europe’, was leggen, nvdr.) ook zou gelden voor failliet, ben je een dommerik. Er is de reactie ijskoud. We staan nu importgoederen. Ik heb hun akkoord geen waardering voor de industrie. toch al veel verder. Niets doen, is ook bekomen. We zijn nu zeven Terwijl een land zonder industrie geen geen optie. Je ziet mensen hun job jaar verder, en voor onze goederen land meter is. Bij iedere beslissing verliezen, in de armoede belanden. wordt Reach steeds strenger. Maar zou de sociale toegevoegde waarde Ik ben daar ziek van.” op importproducten is het nog de parameter moeten zijn : ‘dat altijd niet van toepassing. Wanneer mensen een job hebben en aan het Wat gebeurt er met Utexbel als u zal dat dan wel zo zijn? Als alle einde van de maand betaald kunnen met pensioen gaat? bedrijven dood zijn? Waarom moet worden’.” GRIBOMONT: “Dat zullen we wel mijn product Reach-conform zijn en “Maar als je alleen zo redeneert, oplossen. Ik weet nog niet hoe, maar waarom een product dat van China, hoef je ‘s morgens niet meer op ik zal mijn mensen niet in de steek Pakistan of India komt, niet? Dat te staan. Ik zie zonnestraaltjes in laten.” is toch hallucinant. Wie in Europa de moed van de mensen en in het produceert, wordt gestraft.” feit dat je soms eens een veldslag Er zijn er hier velen die op u “Nog een voorbeeld dat catastrofaal niet verliest of wint. Soms is er rekenen. is voor onze industrie en dat Europa toch wat vooruitgang, bijvoorbeeld GRIBOMONT: “Dat is het net, en totaal uit het oog verloren heeft : er bij de publieke aanbestedingen. dat maakt het leven zeer moeilijk is in Europa geen enkele producent De EU-lidstaten worden eindelijk voor mij. Het is een voortdurende van kleurstoffen meer. Wel, de prijs aangemoedigd om publieke aan- nachtmerrie. Ik ben zoals een acteur. van kleurstoffen is de jongste vier bestedingen niet alleen op basis van Om vijf voor acht zit ik op het toilet, maanden met 60 tot 80 procent de prijs toe te wijzen. Dat is een omdat ik zo veel angst heb. Maar om gestegen. China en India hebbende totale ommekeer in de Europese acht uur ben ik van niets of niemand markt kapotgemaakt. Er zijn nog vier gedachtegang.” nog bang.” of vijf spelers in de wereld. Die zitten allemaal ginds en hebben beslist Hoe moet het nu verder? U hebt vier kinderen? een kartel te vormen. Ik kan niet GRIBOMONT: “Die werken niet in de zomaar aan het Belgische of Franse GRIBOMONT: “Ken je het liedje van zaak. Ze hebben me vlakaf gezegd: leger of de Franse politie melden Leonard Cohen, waarin hij zingt ‘she ‘papa, één gek in de familie volstaat’ dat de prijs fors is gestegen, of dat died without is whisper’? Kleine (lacht).” ik niet meer kan leveren omdat ik firma’s gaan dood, mensen glijden geen kleurstoffen meer krijg om een weg in armoede, en je ziet Europa Nog een aanmerking? uniform donkerblauw te kleuren.” achteruitgaan. Twintig jaar geleden werkten nog 150’000 mensen in GRIBOMONT: “Jazeker. Ik krijg Hoe zit het met het eenheidsstatuut? de Europese textielsector, nu nog iedere week 500 à 1000 bladzijden amper 20’000. Hetzelfde gebeurt tekst over Europese bepalingen, die GRIBOMONT: “Een industrieel is morgen met de autosector en andere verteerd moeten worden. Dat vergt hier tegenwoordig al gelukkig als sectoren. veel tijd en energie. Een probleem er niets negatiefs gebeurt. Maar is dat Europa onbegrijpelijk wordt. dat eenheidsstatuut is inderdaad Gelukkig zijn er niches waarin er Industriëlen gaan niet meer naar opnieuw een enorme catastrofe minder concurrentie bestaat. Maar de de vergaderingen of verlaten ze voor de textielsector. Als er industrie wordt nooit aangemoedigd na tien minuten, omdat er jargon niets aan wordt gedaan, is een en de mensen vechten niet meer. wordt gebruikt dat voor die mensen herstructurering in textiel, maar ook Veel van die ondernemingen zijn onverstaanbaar is. Het is immers in de hout- en de meubelsector, niet ook familiebedrijven met eigenaars moeilijker dan Hebreeuws!” meer mogelijk omdat die vier of vijf die 60 of 65 jaar zijn. Hun kinderen keer meer zal kosten dan vandaag. willen het bedrijf niet voortzetten.” JEAN-FRANCOIS GRIBOMONT zag Het zal meteen een sluiting worden. het levenslicht te Ukkel, werd Dat betekent dat België over vijf jaar Zoals uzelf. licentiaat economie aan UCL, MBA en Boston, is gehuwd en heeft vier geen textiel-, hout- en meubelsector GRIBOMONT: “Ik spreek ook voor kinderen. meer zal hebben. Iedereen weet dat, mezelf, absoluut. Anderen vechten ook de ministers.” niet meer, maar ik zal blijven Hij is eigenaar en CEO van Utexbel, strijden. Onze industrie heeft genoeg met vestigingen te Ronse, Moeskroen, De problemen nemen alleen maar kwaliteit in zich om goed te kunnen Kluisbergen en Baisieux (Fr.). toe? overleven, als de context in Europa Tevens is hij voorzitter van Fedustria, GRIBOMONT: “Produceren in Europa en Vlaanderen maar positief zou bestuurder van Euratex en lid van en in België is crimineel. Produceer zijn.” Eurocoton.

37 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 ALGEMEEN NIEUWS Economische ontwikkeling in de textielindustrie Bron: Fedustria News - Bijlage 2 bij Nr. 18 van 28 juli 2014

Het eerste kwartaal 2014 Zoals geïllustreerd in grafiek 2 bleef de uitvoerstijging van kledingweefsels was positief, maar werd niet bezetting van het productievermogen bleef beperkt tot 1,2%. Garens bevestigd in het tweede kwartaal in 2013 laag, wat aangeeft dat er in (-0,9%) en gebreide stoffen (-3,9%) In de loop van 2013 was er een elk geval marge is voor een verdere kenden een daling van de uitvoer. De uitgesproken herstel van het productie- en omzetstijging. Een invoer nam met 7,5% toe. Het saldo ondernemersvertrouwen in de stijging van de productie tijdens het van de handelsbalans bleef met ca. textielsector (grafiek 1). Daardoor eerste kwartaal van 2014 met 8% 650 miljoen euro positief. steeg de afgevlakte conjunctuurcurve op jaarbasis en met 11% t.o.v. het Meer uitgebreide informatie over in juli 2013 voor het eerst in voorgaande kwartaal evenals een de economische ontwikkeling in ettelijke jaren tot boven die van opvoering van de bezettingsgraad de textiel- en kledingindustrie in de de totale verwerkende nijverheid. van het productievermogen tot lente van 2014 kan u terugvinden In het tweede kwartaal van 2014 73,1% in april 2014 suggereren een in het conjunctuurverslag van de viel het ondernemersvertrouwen herstel begin 2014. Centrale Raad voor het Bedrijfsleven in de textielsector echter opnieuw De sterke toename van de (CRB) dat binnenkort beschikbaar sterk terug. Belangrijke redenen voorraden en de neergang van zal zijn op www.ccecrb. fgov.be hiervoor zijn de sterke stijging de conjunctuurcurve in diezelfde (Thema’s, Sectoren). Met dank ook van de voorraden in april en periode geven echter aan dat dit aan de opsteller van het verslag, de inzinking van de binnen- en herstel niet duurzaam is. Stephen Renders, secretaris van de buitenlandse bestellingen in mei. De textieluitvoer kende in het eerste commissie textiel en kleding van de Ook in de verwerkende nijverheid kwartaal van 2014 een stijging met CRB. was er in mei een achteruitgang 4,6% t.o.v. dezelfde periode 2013. van de brutoresultaten, doch deze De uitvoer van vezels (+10,9%), was minder uitgesproken dan in de interieurtextiel (+6,0%) en technisch E-mail: [email protected] textielsector. textiel (+4,1%) steeg behoorlijk. De Tel.: 02 528 58 05

Update textielgrondstoffenprijzen tweede kwartaal 2014 Bron: Fedustria News – Bijlage Nr. 18 van 28 juli 2014

Polypropyleen- en vlasprijzen stegen, dollarcents per pond in maart 2014 voorkwam dat de markt weggleed. de meeste andere prijzen daalden. naar 91,05 dollarcents in juni 2014. Maar zodra dat de prijzen iets Dit is een daling met 2,3% in dollar herstelden, droogde de vraag op. en met 5,2% in euro. T.o.v. juni Katoen vorig jaar bedroeg de daling 6% in Wol De in april 2014 ingezette prijsdaling dollar en 4,5% in euro. De vraag van katoen hield aan in het tweede hernam bij deze dalende prijzen, In juni 2014 lag de gemiddelde kwartaal 2014. De katoenprijs daar de spinners de kans namen veilingprijs voor Australische wol, (Cotlook A-index) daalde van 96,87 om dringende aankopen te doen. Dit de EMI, in Australische dollar 3,0%

38 ALGEMEEN NIEUWS UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 lager dan een jaar eerder en in euro een stijging met 5,6% t.o.v. mei 2013 synthetische vezels, vermeld in de 6,1% lager. T.o.v. maart 2014 werd en met 1,9% t.o.v. februari 2014. Dit tabel, daalden lichtjes met 2 tot 4% een lichte prijsdaling genoteerd met is echter een daling met 2,2% t.o.v. in dollar en met 3 tot 5% in euro 1,4% in Australische dollar maar april 2014 toen met 193,17 euro per t.o.v. juni 2013. een stijging met 3,2% in euro. In de 100 kg het hoogste niveau sinds Tabel: maandelijkse gemiddelde tweede helft van mei 2014 stegen november 2011 (195,14) bereikt grondstoffenprijzen de wolnoteringen op de Australische werd. Index juni 2014 t.o.v. juni 2013 = 100 veiling lichtjes, als gevolg van een (tussen haakjes index juni 2014 t.o.v. maart 2013 = 00) toegenomen vraag vanuit China en Synthetische vezels In US $ In euro Italië, gecombineerd met een beperkt Polypropyleenvezel kende een Katoenvezel 97,7 (94,0) 94,8 (95,5) aanbod in Australië en Nieuw- opvallende prijsstijging: +12,4% Australische wol (1) 96,9 (101,6) 93,9 (103,2) Zeeland en de laatste verkoopweek Vlasvezel (2) 105,6 (101,9) in dollar en +10,3% in euro t.o.v. Acrylvezel 97,1 (95,4) 96,0 (97,9) in Zuid-Afrika vóór de verlofperiode juni 2013 en +2,5% in dollar en Polypropyleenvezel 112,4 (102,5) 110,3 (104,9) van twee maand. Tijdens de eerste Polyesterstapelvezel 1,7 dtex 97,0 (94,8) 95,9 (97,4) +4,9% in euro t.o.v. maart 2014. Polyesterfilament 167 dtex, POY 96,1 (96,9) 95,3 (100,0) twee weken van juni viel de prijs Deze prijsstijging is het gevolg van Nylonfilament 17 dtex, POY 97,8 (93,9) 96,7 (96,3) alweer terug. De vraag naar wol blijft de onrust in het Midden-Oosten Nylonfilament getextureerd 78/68 98,1 (94,5) 97,1 (97,1) Nylonfilament 1350 dtex, BCF 102,9 (98,3) 101,8 (101,0) in het algemeen zwak. en schaarste o.m. veroorzaakt (1) In Australische dollar bedraagt de intrinsieke door de explosie in een Shell- prijsdaling op jaarbasis 3,0%; op kwartaalbasis is Vlas propyleenfabriek in Nederland begin er een daling met 1,4%. De gemiddelde verkoopprijs voor juni. Nylon 1350 dtex BCF kende (2) Mei 2014 t.o.v. mei 2013 = 100 (tussen haakjes index mei 2014 t.o.v. februari 2014 = 100). dauwgeroot gezwingeld vlas bedroeg een lichte prijsstijging met 2,9% in in mei 2014 188,88 euro per 100 kg dollar en met 1,8% in euro t.o.v. juni E-mail: sylvie.groeninckfedustria.be (laatst beschikbaar gegeven). Dit is vorig jaar. De prijzen van de andere Tel.: 02 528 58 05

Vrijhandelsakkoord tussen Zwitserland en China van toepassing sinds 1 juli 2014 Bron: Fedustria News – Bijlage bij het Nr. 21 van 22-09-2014

Het vrijhandelsakkoord dat Zwitserland preferentiële oorsprongsregels de gefragmenteerde textiel- en en China op 6 juli 2013 sloten, trad die voorzien zijn in het akkoord kledingketting in Zwitserland vaak op 1 juli 2014 in werking. Het gaat Zwitserland-China zijn vrij liberaal al niet voldaan kon worden aan om het eerste vrijhandelsakkoord (verandering van tariefpost of van de dubbele bewerking, doorgaans tussen China en een Europees land. postonderverdeling, of waarde van noodzakelijk om preferentiële Bij ingang van het akkoord werd de niet van oorsprong zijnde materialen oorsprong te verkrijgen. Voor invoer van alle Chinese industriële toegelaten tot 60%). Zwitserland is het nl. in het kader van goederen (inclusief textiel en kleding) Het besparen van invoerrechten het preferentieel akkoord tussen EU in Zwitserland onmiddellijk vrijgesteld houdt voor Zwitserland een belangrijk en Zwitserland moeilijker om aan de van invoerrechten, terwijl 40% van concurrentievoordeel in t.o.v. dubbele bewerking te voldoen dan de Zwitserse textielexport en 53% concurrenten uit landen die geen voor de lidstaten van de EU-28, daar van de Zwitserse kledingexport naar vrijhandelsakkoord hebben met de EU-28 als één land beschouwd China onmiddellijk vrijgesteld werd. China. Zwitserse producten, wordt en de lidstaten de dubbele De rest van de Zwitserse textiel- en gemaakt met Chinese inputs, zullen bewerking kunnen spreiden over kledingexport zal een geleidelijke gevoelig competitiever worden op al twee lidstaten (in feite totale cumul tariefvermindering kennen, gespreid hun exportmarkten en wel op korte binnen de EU-28), terwijl Zwitserland over vijf tot tien jaar. en middellange termijn. de dubbele bewerking binnen zijn Zwitserland voert uit China vooral landsgrenzen moet realiseren. machines en mechanismemiddelen Gevolgen voor de EU Voor Zwitserse textiel- en in, textiel en kleding, producten om Wat de uitvoer van Zwitserland naar kledingproducten die bij invoer uurwerken te maken en chemische de EU betreft, kunnen Zwitserse in de EU niet kunnen genieten producten. De belangrijkste producten dan wel genieten van van nulrechten omdat er niet producten die Zwitserland uitvoert goedkopere Chinese inputs, maar voldaan is aan de preferentiële naar China zijn machines en tegelijkertijd kan dan zelden nog oorsprongsregels, moet het tarief toestellen, uurwerken, chemische en voldaan worden aan de Europese derde landen betaald worden. Voor farmaceutische producten. preferentiële oorsprongsregels, garens is dat doorgaans 4%, voor waardoor er in de EU invoerrechten weefsels doorgaans 8% en voor Voordelen voor Zwitserland betaald moeten worden op kleding en huishoudtextiel 12%. Het vrijhandelsakkoord verbetert de uit Zwitserland ingevoerde Dit zijn dezelfde tarieven die gelden de markttoegang voor Zwitserse producten. De Zwitserse textiel- en bij rechtstreekse invoer uit China producten op de omvangrijke en kledingproducenten zien dit niet in de EU. Trouwens ook Chinese snelgroeiende Chinese markt. De echt als een nadeel, gezien door producten die via Zwitserland naar

39 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 ALGEMEEN NIEUWS de EU uitgevoerd zouden worden, normale invoerrecht in Zwitserland voorheen ook, maar bijkomend zijn onderhevig aan diezelfde (dus voor landen waarmee het element is dat er voortaan in invoerrechten. We hoeven dan ook geen preferentieel akkoord heeft) Zwitserland ook geen invoerrechten geen vloedgolf van doorvoer van voor ruw katoendoek 80 Zwitserse op deze Chinese producten Chinese producten via Zwitserland frank per 100 kg en voor een betaald zal worden. De normale op onze markt te vrezen. bedrukt weefsel van synthetische invoerrechten, tarief van derde vezels 190 Zwitserse frank per landen, blijft wel van toepassing 100 kg. In de veronderstelling dat op deze Chinese producten, die via in het bovenstaande voorbeeld Zwitserland, de EU binnenkomen. ruw katoendoek ingevoerd wordt uit China is de besparing t.o.v. Handelscijfers de toestand vóór 1 juli 2014 80 In 2013 voerde de Zwitserse textiel- Zwitserse frank per 100 kg of zo’n en kledingindustrie voor 2.299 65 euro per 100 kg. miljoen euro uit. De textielindustrie nam hiervan 1.164 miljoen euro voor Wat met eventuele zijn rekening en de kledingindustrie vrijwaringsmaatregelen? 1.135 miljoen euro. Zwitserland Toch is waakzaamheid geboden in voerde voor 37 miljoen euro textiel het kader van eventuele Europese uit naar China. China is hiermee de antidumping-, antisubsidie- en zesde belangrijkste klant van de vrijwaringsmaatregelen. Bij het Zwitserse textielindustrie (zie tabel). opleggen van deze maatregelen Zwitserland voerde 157 miljoen euro Belang van de preferentiële wordt de niet-preferentiële textiel in uit China, waarmee China oorsprongsregels oorsprong, meestal gebaseerd op de derde belangrijkste leverancier de enkelvoudige bewerking, in is van textiel aan Zwitserland. Met Een voorbeeld ter verduidelijking van aanmerking genomen. een bedrag aan kleding van 61 de preferentiële oorsprongsregels: miljoen euro is China de vierde een weefsel geweven in China heeft in belangrijkste klant van de Zwitserse het kader van het vrijhandelsakkoord kledingindustrie. China is de Zwitserland-China de preferentiële belangrijkste leverancier van kleding oorsprong China en kan bijgevolg aan Zwitserland met een bedrag van sinds 1 juli 2014 vrij van invoerrechten 1.262 miljoen euro. in Zwitserland ingevoerd worden. In Zwitserland wordt dit weefsel Zwitserland is ook een belangrijke veredeld en vervolgens uitgevoerd handelspartner van de EU-28. naar de EU. In het kader van het In 2013 voerde de EU-28 voor akkoord EU-Zwitserland verkrijgt 1.372 miljoen euro textiel- en dit veredelde weefsel niet de kledingproducten in uit Zwitserland, preferentiële oorsprong Zwitserland. waarvan 843 miljoen euro textiel Bijgevolg valt dit weefsel onder het en 529 miljoen euro kleding. Maar tarief derde landen bij invoer in de Chinese producten die door als klant is Zwitserland nog veel EU en zal 8% invoerrechten op het bewerking in Zwitserland als niet- belangrijker voor de EU: de EU-28 veredelde weefsel betaald moeten preferentiële oorsprong Zwitserland voerde in 2013 voor 4.703 miljoen worden. verkrijgen, zouden dan in de EU euro textiel- en kledingproducten Hoe groot, bij invoer van het niet onder handelsdefensieve uit naar Zwitserland, waarvan 1.421 Chinese weefsel, de besparing van maatregelen vallen die op Chinese miljoen euro textiel en 3.282 miljoen invoerrechten is voor de Zwitserse producten van toepassing zouden euro kleding. Voor textiel staat fabrikant hangt af van het type zijn. Ten opzichte van de situatie voor België op de zevende plaats van grondstof, de graad van afwerking de invoegetreding van het akkoord de leveranciers aan Zwitserland (61 en het gewicht. Zwitserland kent Zwitserland-China houdt deze miljoen euro of +7,4% in 2013). een systeem van invoerrechten niet-preferentiële regeling eigenlijk gebaseerd op het gewicht en niet geen enkele wijziging in. Deze, zeg Voor meer informatie: op de waarde. Ook is het invoerrecht maar legale mogelijkheid, om, na e-mail: sylvie.groeninck©fedustria.be hoger naarmate de graad van een bewerking, handelsdefensieve of afwerking toeneemt. Zo bedraagt het maatregelen te omzeilen bestond tel.: 02 528 58 05

Het volgende UNITEX-dossiernummer zal handelen over het thema: The factory of the future

40 ALGEMEEN NIEUWS UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 OEKO-TEX® introduces MySTeP for Sustainably Managed Textile Supply Chains The International OEKO-TEX® many partners around the world to very useful management tool that Association, a global leader in textile work with Mango. It’s a beneficial helps textile product companies product and facility certifications, tool for our entire supply chain and their suppliers collaborate more announced at TexWorld USA the and will help us all operate more effectively.” introduction of MySTeP, a robust, responsibly and considerately.” OEKO-TEX® also offers the globally secure database application that The MySTeP database facilitates respected OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 houses a textile product manu- private, confidential communication certification for textile products that facturer’s information related to its between customers and suppliers, are tested to be free from harmful sustainable operations. ensures that compliance data and levels of more than 300 potentially MySTeP complements the STeP other certifications are complete and dangerous substances such as ® by OEKO-TEX certification, a up to date, and helps facility operators residual pesticides, carcinogenic comprehensive certification program more easily manage the many dyestuffs, heavy metals like lead, and for brands, retailers, and manu- components of a comprehensive formaldehyde. To learn more about facturers from all sectors of the sustainable production strategy OEKO-TEX® certification systems textile supply chain who want to that is both environmentally and and tools for textile manufacturers, validate their sustainable production socially responsible. Via the brands, and retailers, please contact in a transparent, credible, and clear supplier dashboard feature, MySTeP the OEKO-TEX® Secretariat at info@ manner that is consistent country to provides a simple overview of a oeko-tex.com. country. company’s textile supply chain and Dr. Jean-Pierre Haug, General the manufacturers that define it. Secretary of the International The MySTeP dashboard can also be OEKO-TEX® Association, unveiled customized with benchmarks key to the latest OEKO-TEX® innovation particular aspects of a company’s at a Texworld USA event attended sustainability strategy as well as by brands, retailers, and textile features to track the supply chain’s product manufacturers from around performance against them and other the world. “We were very pleased key performance indicators. The ® by our guests’ positive response new OEKO-TEX API (Application to MySTeP,” he said. “MySTeP has Program Interface) further aids As a useful complement to the STeP been designed specifically for the communication and data sharing by OEKO-TEX® certification for the textile products industry and they via portals and cloud-based vendor evaluation of single productions clearly recognize and appreciate the management platforms. sites with respect to fair working benefits of that focus.” “Communication, goal-sharing, and conditions and environmentally Beatriz Bayo Gonzalez of Mango access to timely, accurate information friendly production processes, added her praise for the new MySTeP are critical aspects for any company’s the MySTeP dashboard offers management tool. “Sustainability is successful sustainability strategy,” registered users from brand, retail, very important to our company and says Tricia Carey of Lenzing, whose and manufacturing companies the ® to our customers. MySTeP will make fibres have been OEKO-TEX certified opportunity to analyse and manage it easier to manage our complicated for many years. the sustainability of their entire supply chain and, equally important, “I applaud OEKO-TEX® for creating supply chain by means of key MySTeP will make it easier for our a sustainability certification and a performance indicators (KPIs). Is energy efficiency challenging or profitable? Solutions for the European textile & clothing industry Euratex

Energy efficiency continues to gain Energy Agency underlines in its latest Today companies across the whole importance in most industries and report: “Industrial energy efficiency textile and apparel value chain economic sectors. The energy cost measures deliver substantial benefits place sustainable production and has always been a crucial element in addition to energy cost savings higher resource efficiency at the for the competitiveness of the – enhancing competitiveness, centre of their growth strategy. European clothing and particularly profitability, production and product This may explain the success of the textile industry. The International quality […]” the SESEC(*) project, whose final

41 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 ALGEMEEN NIEUWS conference took place in September to assure effective implementation the SESEC self-assessment tools 2014 in Brussels where it brought of the existing framework since in eight European languages were together entrepreneurs, industry most of the EU Member States remarked. representatives, researchers, still have to fully comply with the The new project SET (Save Energy consultants and policy makers to Energy Efficiency Directive. Dr. Fabio in Textile SMEs) was also presented. discuss on the most profitable energy Genoese from the Brussels-based SET will build on up the SESEC legacy, efficiency measures. Coordinated think tank CEPS provided a detailed addressing energy saving measures by Euratex, the SESEC project overview of the impact of energy for the textile manufacturers. SET will developed tools to help clothing costs on energy intensive industries. seek to support over 150 European companies in understanding and The SESEC partners presented companies until 2016. Both projects reducing energy consumption. ready-to-use project’s results, are co-founded by the EU Intelligent In his opening address Mr. such as special software tools for Energy Europe programme and Francesco Marchi, director general at companies to start rethinking their constitute the core elements of the Energy Made-to-Measure campaign. EURATEX, pointed out the relevance energy spending, use of buildings, The latter brings resources and of energy efficiency for the sector heating system, ventilation and high-quality information on energy and the goals of the ad-hoc created electricity. efficiency measures to European Energy Made-to-Measure campaign. Partners reported that under SESEC textile and clothing companies. Mrs. Serena Pontoglio from the some fifty companies across Europe European Commission, Directorate have already been audited and/ (*) SESEC – Sustainable Energy Saving for the European Clothing Industry, find out more: www. General for Energy, presented the or supported to launch energy euratex.eu/sesec Commission’s communication on efficiency measures. Insights on energy efficiency published in July business cases in Italy, Bulgaria, For further information contact: 2014. She underlined that to reach Romania and Portugal as well as% Euratex - Mauro Scalia, Project the Europe 2020 target of 20% of the achieved cost-reductions Manager Rue Montoyer 24 increase in energy efficiency no were shown. The 400 participants BE-1000 Brussels additional legislation at the EU level in training meetings and the free Tel.: +32 2 285 48 91 shall be needed. The current task is of charge access via website to E mail: [email protected]

DeGroteBedtest.be doet Vlamingen nadenken over hun slaapcomfort Te Brussel werd op 12 september Daarom vindt De Slaapraad het Test zelf je bed in ruil voor 2014 DeGroteBedtest.be voor het hoognodig om de Vlamingen uit te professioneel advies op maat eerst gelanceerd, een handige dagen om zelf te checken hoe het De online-enquête kan worden digitale vragenlijst die de Vlamingen gesteld is met hun bed, aan de hand ingevuld via www.degrotebedtest.be. uitdaagt om na te gaan hoe het van een interactieve test. gesteld is met hun slaapcomfort. Je beantwoordt een aantal digitale Onderzoek van slaapexpert dr. vragen over je manier van slapen en De praktijk wijst namelijk uit dat veel Idzikowski heeft uitgewezen dat de mensen geen idee hebben van de je bedsysteem. Het eindresultaat is aanschaf van een nieuw bed tot een kwalitatieve evaluatie op jouw leeftijd van hun matras of bedbodem. 42 minuten extraslaap kan opleveren. Nochtans heeft wetenschappelijk maat. onderzoek uitgewezen dat je, in het Bovendien is het om hygiënische en Indien nodig of gewenst, kan je belang van een gezonde nachtrust, ergonomische redenen aangewezen met het eindresultaat voor advies je matras en bedbodem best om om je matras en bedbodem na tien langsgaan bij een erkend lid van De de tien jaar vervangt. Een nieuw jaar te vervangen. Slaapraad uit jouw regio. bed kan namelijk tot 42 minuten Katja De Vos, communicatieverant- De deelnemende handelaars zijn extranachtrust geven. woordelijke van De Slaapraad, geeft herkenbaar aan de hand van toelichting bij DeGroteBedtest.be: de sticker “Erkend lid van De DeGroteBedtest.be, “Uit wetenschappelijke studies is Slaapraad”. een initiatief van De Slaapraad effectief gebleken dat er wel degelijk Bovendien kan je na het invullen Al achttien jaar verspreidt De een rechtstreeks verband is tussen van de bedtest deelnemen aan een Slaapraad de boodschap “vervang de kwaliteit van je slaapsysteem en wedstrijd waarbij je voor 5000 euro om de tien jaar je matras en de kwaliteit van je slaap. Daarom aan slaapcomfort kan winnen. bedbodem”. Intussen is deze willen wij de consument op een boodschap door de meerderheid neutrale manier bewustmaken van De wedstrijd loopt vanaf 15 van de Vlamingen bekend. Alleen het belang van een goede matras, september tot en met 15 november leert de praktijk dat vele Vlamingen bedbodem en hoofdkussen. Een 2014. Ook na het aflopen van de niet weten hoe oud hun matras en/of interactieve online-bedtest die de wedstrijd blijft de bedtest online en bedbodem is, en als ze het al weten, consument gemakkelijk zelf kan kan je nog steeds de vragen invullen daarom niet noodzakelijk na tien jaar uitvoeren, leek ons hiertoe dan ook om een persoonlijke evaluatie van je de stap zetten om deze te vervangen. de meest geschikte manier.” slaapcomfort te krijgen.

42 ALGEMEEN NIEUWS UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 DeGroteBedtest.be is een initiatief De Slaapraad vzw is een neutraal Voor meer informatie over DeGroteBedtest.be van: orgaan dat in 1996 werd opgericht en/of over De Slaapraad: op initiatief van fabrikanten en Katja De Vos, Communicatieverantwoordelijke De Slaapraad vzw handelaars uit de slaapcomfortsector Tel.: 02 528 58 43 – GSM: 0476 31 64 67 met als doel het grote publiek E-mail: [email protected] bewust te maken van het belang van Website: www.degrotebedtest.be / een goede en gezonde nachtrust. www.deslaapraad.be

News from Textiles Intelligence 1. Worldwide output of digitally collections each year and hence commercial-scale print production printed textiles is set for serve the fast fashion market better. will ultimately depend on the ability strong growth There are also opportunities for of machinery manufacturers to Worldwide output of digitally expansion in the luxury apparel develop digital textile printers with printed textiles is growing at an segment as digital textile printing production speeds which rival those annual rate of 25%, according to enables retailers of luxury apparel of conventional textile printing a report in Issue No 170 of Textile to produce small quantities of high machinery. Outlook International from the global quality, limited edition pieces cost business information company efficiently. 2. A strong future for carbon, Textiles Intelligence. Further scope for expansion lies glass, synthetic and natural Digital textile printing has a number in the area of mass customisation, fibre textiles in composites of important advantages over screen whereby a consumer is able to Over the past ten years, investments printing. For example, it offers personalise a product by choosing a have been driven by the aerospace greater freedom of creativity and design on a dedicated web page in a industry with a focus on reducing flexibility in design and is more cost retailer’s online store for subsequent the weight of aircraft. Now, the efficient for short print runs. Also, it production by a digital textile printer. emphasis is on reducing the is more environmentally friendly, it Digital textile printing will also weight of passenger cars and other enables physical inventory levels to become more important in the vehicles. Parts for vehicles are being be reduced, it requires less capital home textiles sector as consumers made from composites reinforced investment and it has a smaller increasingly view home textile with fibres and fabrics made from production footprint. Furthermore, products as consumables, and various materials, including carbon, the adoption of digital textile printing update their home furnishings and glass and polyester, as well as can help manufacturers to adapt bedding more frequently. natural fibres. more quickly to changes in global sourcing trends and consumer Among non-consumer applications, In 2013 the output of the composites demand. there are major opportunities for the industry is estimated to have been digital textile printing market in soft worth 95 bn Euros (US$126 bn) at At present, digitally printed textiles signage. This field is ideally suited the finished parts stage and growth account for just 2% of total printed to digital printing as customers in textile production worldwide. And, of 9-10% per annum is projected up this sector usually order in small despite rapid growth, they will still to 2020 and beyond. quantities and digital textile printing account for only a 5% share by A report, published in issue 96 of is capable of producing short print 2017. However, there are many Technical Textile Markets, highlights runs cost effectively. opportunities which provide the important developments in this fast digital textile printing industry with Soft signage made from digitally expanding field. It includes: scope for future expansion. In printed polyester fabric has - Introduction particular, whereas the production of some practical advantages over - Investments in the composites traditional hard signage and PVC digitally printed textiles is currently industry in Europe and the USA weighted heavily towards developing signage. In particular, it is stable - Carbon fibres and fabrics for countries, there is likely to be an in hot environments whereas the composites increase in production in European performance of hard signage and countries in the future. PVC signage can be adversely - Glass fibres and fabrics for composites The increase in production in affected by hot weather and - Synthetic fibres and fabrics for European countries will be driven by variable humidity. As such, the use composites the fact that some European textile of digitally printed polyester fabric companies are looking to re-shore provides manufacturers of signage - Natural fibres and fabrics for a proportion of their production with scope for expanding their composites operations from developing businesses to countries with warm For more information: countries to European countries in climates in which hard signage and PVC signage would not be suitable. Textiles Intelligence, Alderley House, order to satisfy local tastes, facilitate Wilmslow SK9 1AT, United Kingdom quick response (QR) manufacturing, However, the widespread adoption Tel.: +44 (0)1625 536 136 release a greater number of of digital textile printing as a tool for Fax: +44 (0)1625 536 137

43 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 ALGEMEEN NIEUWS VDMA Textile Machinery: graduate engineers stand out and take off In connection with its members’ engineering and medical technology A team of students of RWTH Aachen meeting in Lindau on Lake Constance and provides convincing answers (Technical University) has been the VDMA Textile Machinery Association exceeding the classical fields of honoured with the creativity award of has honoured seven successful young application such as apparel and home 2000 Euros. Dominik Granich, Gerrit engineers. Every year the Walter textiles. Hartmann, Andreas Schulz und Philipp Reiners-Stiftung (foundation) of the Schleer presented a concept for German textile machinery industry Award winners of 2014 development of a braiding machine for launches several promotion and The promotion prize in the dissertation stents. These are applied in medicine creativity prizes for young engineers. category endowed with 5000 Euros has for treating vascular diseases. This time, there has been a particular been awarded to Dr. Thorsten Heinze of highlight : as a recognition for TU Chemnitz (Technical University). He outstanding dissertations, master undertook further research on polyester thesis and project studies the president fibres as alternative to braided metallic of the foundation and chairman of the ropes used for conveyor technology. Lindauer DORNIER GmbH Board of Fields of application are elevators, Management, Peter D. Dornier, has cranes and shaft hoisting systems. invited the laureates to a Zeppelin flight Due to the excellent quality of two over the lake Constance region. master theses this year, the promotion prizes in this category, each endowed Issues of the future presented in a with 3000 Euros, have been given to high-tech backdrop Mr. Moniruddoza Ashir of TU Dresden The award ceremony took place at the (Technical University) and Mr. Markus Dornier Aviation & Aerospace Museum Appelmann of Hochschule Mannheim in Friedrichshafen. This museum, (University of Applied Sciences). The which is an inspiring celebration of the study presented by Mr. Ashir deals pioneer spirit and makes it possible with hybrid woven structures for to experience highest technical Photo: ready for take-off : Markus Appelmann, Roland lightweight applications, which can Hampel, Dr. Thorsten Heinze, Peter D. Dornier, Philipp performance, was the ideal framework be used from automotive engineering Schleer, Stefan Kroß (f.l.t.r). to honour the forward-looking studies to sports equipment like tennis of the young academics. In his rackets or golf clubs. The master VDMA Textile Machinery celebratory speech Peter D. Dornier thesis of Mr. Appelmann with a very Lyoner Str. 18 DE-60528 Frankfurt am Main characterized the textile machinery practical approach is devoted to the Phone: +49 69 6603-1366 industry as real “high-tech incubator”, development of a bench for testing Fax: +49 69 6603-2366 which contributes in a decisive manner the loop formation on warp knitting E-mail: [email protected] to meet the challenges of automotive machines. Internet: txm.vdma.org MyMachine Vlaanderen: 400 kleine uitvinders aan de slag MyMachine Vlaanderen, een initiatief en een nieuwe MyMachine-computer- De studenten moeten het creatiefste van MyMachine vzw in samenwerking game te realiseren. in de kinderen naar boven halen, met Vlajo, maakt het mogelijk voor waarna de klas de top 3 van mooiste kleine (en grote) kinderen om hun Meer dan 400 kinderen kruipen in of mafste machines kiest. Eén eigen droommachine te ontwikkelen. de huid van Leonardo Da Vinci daarvan wordt verder uitgewerkt Kinderen uit het lager onderwijs Tussen 22 en 24 oktober kruipen door de ontwerpstudenten. Ten slotte bedenken een ‘machine’ (IDEE) die meer dan 400 kinderen uit 21 bouwen leerlingen van het technisch secundair onderwijs deze machines. dan verder wordt uitgewerkt door lagere schoolklassen, verspreid hogeschoolstudenten (ONTWERP) om Eind juni wordt het hele proces van over Vlaanderen, in de huid van ten slotte te worden gerealiseerd door kindertekening tot tastbare machine Leonardo da Vinci. Ze bedenken, leerlingen uit het technisch onderwijs tentoongesteld. tekenen en beschrijven hun eigen (MACHINE). Gedurende het hele De Billenkletsmachine, het Zweef- ‘droommachine’. Ze worden hierbij traject kunnen kinderen en studenten board, de Weermaakmachine, het een beroep doen op de expertise en geholpen door studenten van de Frietkanon of de Spokenverjager, ondersteuning van diverse bedrijven Howest Bacheloropleiding Industrieel het zijn slechts enkele van de straffe de en organisaties om zo de knapste productontwerpen (2 jaar). uitvindingen die dankzij MyMachine in machines te realiseren. Sommigen worden ook vergezeld het verleden werden gerealiseerd. Meer dan 600 kinderen en studenten van de leerlingen van de technische Bovendien gaat voor de derde uit 22 scholen gaan straks samen aan secundaire school waarmee ze straks keer een studententeam van de de slag om ingenieuze droommachines gaan samenwerken. Howest bacheloropleiding Digital

44 ALGEMEEN NIEUWS UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 Arts & Entertainment (www. - Belgische nominatie voor de Beleef MyMachine online digitalartsandentertainment.be) creatief “Europese Ondernemingsprijzen Vanaf november kunnen niet alleen aan de slag gaat met de wildste 2011” van de Europese Commissie, kinderen, leerlingen en studenten, kinderideeën. Het eindresultaat van uitgereikt door de Belgische overheid maar ook de ouders en andere deze ‘technical artists’ is een (Federale Overheid Dienst Economie) geïnteresseerden het hele proces actief 3D-computergame. Zo leren kinderen - Brugproject Onderwijs-Economie volgen via ook de onbegrensde wereld van het 2008 en 2011 door de Vlaamse www.mymachinevlaanderen.be digitaal ontwerpen kennen. Overheid via Agentschap Ondernemen Contact en Info MyMachine Bekroningen Vlaanderen MyMachine werd al meermaals - Winnaar in de categorie hoger Siene van Hoorick, projectcoördinator bekroond, zowel nationaal als onderwijs van de prijs van de Tel.: +32 492 730 560 internationaal: Meest Ondernemende Hogeschool E-mail: [email protected] en Aagje Beirens, projectcoördinator - Laureaat United Nations World 2009 (Howest), uitgereikt door Unizo, Flanders DC, Expertisecen- Tel.: +32 474 491 662 Summit Award 2009 voor Creativiteit E-mail: [email protected] en E-content (voor koppeling project trum Ervaringsgericht Onderwijs, Website: www.mymachinevlaanderen.be en website www.mymachine.be Cera Foundation en de Vlaamse ontwikkeld i.s.m. Indie Group) Overheid - Winnaar van de Design Management - West-Vlaams streekproject door Europe Award 2009 in de categorie VOKA West-Vlaanderen 2009 en non-profit voor het integreren van 2010 MyMachine is een initiatief van Howest, ‘Design’ als key-element in zowel - West-Vlaamse Ambassadeur de hogeschool West-Vlaanderen, strategie, projectmanagement en ‘Ondernemen’ 2010 door de Intercommunale Leiedal en het projectproces Provincie West-Vlaanderen Streekfonds West-Vlaanderen Lectra

Lectra wins EY’s 2014 International © Company of the Year Award EY awarded this prestigious prize on October 13 to Daniel Harari in recognition of the vitality and success of Lectra’s strategy internationally Paris, October 16, 2014 – Lectra, the its French DNA with its headquarters the years, Lectra has gained market world leader in integrated technology based in Paris and its production share and today holds a very strong solutions dedicated to industries and R&D facilities located in Cestas, position with renowned customers in using soft materials—fabrics, leather, southwest France—a French touch all its business sectors. In the fashion technical textiles and composite that Lectra is very proud of. “We have market for example, Lectra serves materials—is pleased to announce been successful globally because we almost 100% of luxury brands,” said that it has won the 2014 International made the bold choice to continue our Daniel Harari. Company of the Year Award for France production in France, a guarantee of Daniel Harari dedicated the International after receiving the same distinction savoir-faire and quality, while others Company of the Year Award to Lectra’s on September 24 for the country’s relocated to China. We preferred teams. “This prize belongs to all our southwest region. to reinforce the close cooperation collaborators. Multiculturalism is a EY, one of the world leaders in advisory, between our teams of experts and gateway to the world and a wonderful assurance, tax and transaction researchers, a complete reengineering asset on a daily basis. We never stop services, started its Entrepreneur of the of our solutions and an upscale learning from each other,” he said. Year awards program in 1986 in the positioning to continually add value for our customers,” explained Daniel About Lectra United States. The program now spans Lectra is the world leader in integrated more than 58 countries, and this was Harari. technology solutions that automate, the 22nd year the prize was awarded Lectra’s strength also lies in the streamline and accelerate product design, in France. composition of its local teams. “Apart development and manufacturing processes for industries using soft materials. Lectra “This International Company of the from some very rare exceptions, our develops the most advanced specialized Year Award reflects the broad scope of subsidiary managing directors are software and cutting systems and provides Lectra, which serves its customers in local hires, which is not the case in all associated services to a broad array more than 100 countries and achieves multinational companies. This is very of markets including fashion (apparel, 92% of its revenues overseas,” said important because it allows us to create accessories, footwear), automotive (car Daniel Harari, Lectra CEO. “We are a real proximity with our customers, seats and interiors, airbags), furniture, as well as a wide variety of other market a transnational company with 32 and therefore a full understanding of sectors, such as aeronautical and marine subsidiaries abroad and more than their operational needs,” added Daniel industries, wind power and personal 1,400 employees representing 50 Harari. protective equipment. Lectra serves 23,000 different nationalities.” These choices are a winning strategy customers in more than 100 countries with 1,400 employees and $270 million in A ‘glocal’ company, Lectra has as Lectra now attracts an increasing 2013 revenues. The company is listed on succeeded internationally and, at the number of customers from high- Euronext. same time, maintained strong local growth markets such as China, Brazil, For more information, roots. The company has preserved South Korea and United States. “Over please visit www.lectra.com

45 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 ALGEMEEN NIEUWS 46 ALGEMEEN NIEUWS UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 47 UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 ALGEMEEN NIEUWS NIEUWS UIT DE VAKGROEP TEXTIELKUNDE

PhDs in Material Science at the Department of Textiles

Lucy Ciera defended her Lina Rambausek defended her PhD in Material Science at PhD in Material Science Ghent University at Ghent University on 11 July 2014 on 15 September 2014 on the topic

Textronics – Definition, Development and Functionalizing Textile Materials with Mosquito Characterisation of Fibrous Field Effect Transistors Repellents in Melt Extrusion and Electrospinning The field of smart textiles is multidisciplinary in all Despite the enormous efforts in controlling mosquito its facets. Textiles and electronics but also material borne diseases, they still remain a major risk to public science, chemistry and physics gain in importance. health. Their persistence can be attributed to the Many concepts for integrating an electronic function resistance of mosquitoes to the current synthetic into textiles have been developed but not all are at repellents along with environmental and health the same technical level. To allow comparison of concerns and the short protection time of the repellents. e-textile technologies, this dissertation outlines the Moreover, repellents are generally impregnated on existing integration levels, resulting in a systematic the surface of textiles and as a consequence their approach for categorizing e-textiles up to the category durability and resistance to use and care conditions of textronics. is questionable. Thus, there is a scientific as well More specifically, textronics are textile substrates with as a technological gap in developing safer mosquito added-on or built-in electronic functions. An example repellent textiles with an efficacy that can last the is an organic field effect transistor built on a polyester lifetime of the product. This gap can only be filled filament, which is the topic of the experimental part of by identifying effective and safe repellents which can the dissertation. The transistor architecture is applied be permanently incorporated into textiles. Moreover, onto the filament using thin-film technology. Firstly, the produced novel textile should have a slow release the filament is coated with copper by electroless mechanism to ensure a long protection time without deposition, generating the gate layer. The polyimide re-treatment. dielectric layer and the semi-conductor TIPS-pentacene In this PhD research, textile materials were layer are applied by dip-coating. Finally, the source functionalized with repellents such as permethrin, and drain electrodes are deposited by drop-casting PMD, Chili and Catnip oil during fibre production i.e. or ink-jet printing. The experimental challenge lies in melt extrusion and electrospinning. The resulting in applying materials from planar electronics onto a fibres significantly reduced the number of mosquito cylindrical substrate and in optimizing each layer by landings and incorporating the repellents in fibres did using manufacturing processes suitable for the textile not significantly affect the material properties. industry. Therefore, the research work sets a firm basis upon which large-scale production of novel mosquito repellent textiles can be developed. This can lead to great advances not only in the textile industry but also to the public health sector. • . Prof. dr ir. Lieva Van Langenhove [email protected] • . Dr. ir Lina Rambausek [email protected]

48 ALGEMEEN NIEUWS UNITEX nr. 4 - 2014 02_2005 27-04-2005 12:28 Pagina 54

The new funcEonal inkjet inks are designed and New Functional UV-curable DP-inks secretariaat engineered to be jeVable using high-‐speed piezo print heads (Xaar, Dimatex, Seiko…) and to meet the desired funcEonal requirements during the long NEW FUNCTIONAL INKJET INKS: CUSTOMIZED FUNCTIONAL INKS: life cycle of the end products. The digital micro-‐ • Tailor-‐made and fiVed for high speed print disposal approach will have the ability of full 1. Superhydropobic inks heads (Xaar, Seiko, Dimatex...) coverage or exact localiza>on and pa?erning of the -‐ Barrier proper>es against liquids/ • Instant, in-‐line UV-‐curing using air-‐cooled aimed func>onali>es. water LED-‐systems (wavelenght ca. 395 nm) 2. Invisible Fluo-‐ink The project aims also the development of a • No need for special pre-‐ and posVreatment -‐ An>counterfei>ng, tracking, tracing modular prinEng system, which could be scaled-‐up of texEle on industrial level. • Less dependant of texEle material, Both inks will be UV-‐curable based inks Mevr. inclusive heat-‐sensiEve materials The digital technology is seen as a straight (100%) consisEng of: Well selected ingredients: less harmful for Karina WAGENEIRE replacement for convenEonal padding or coaEng • processes. Its unique characterisEcs enable it to fit skin • Monomers as reacEve diluents into different supply chains, become integrated • Because the UV-‐ink does not contain any • AcEve ingredients Hendrikslaar 12 • 9080 Lochristi with other processes and address market needs volaEle solvent, it avoids environmental Selected photo-‐iniEator system previously unfulfilled. This approach fits perfectly in • problems of VOCs, which are increasingly Tel. 32 (0)9 355.23.88 the Euratex Flagship iniEaEve and roadmap to a • Other processing addiEves... subject to legal restricEons. resource efficient Europe, boosEng and enhancing Fax 32 (0)9 356.78.80 economic performance and compeEEveness while E-mail [email protected] reducing use of resources (water, energy, chemicals) or turning major wet texEle in to dry, Website www.unitex.be energy-‐efficient processes.

New funcEonal inkjet inks are curable with air-‐ cooled LED-‐systems, operaEng at 395 nm. Superhydrophobic inkjet inks -‐ contact angle ≥ 140 ° Invisible ﬂuo inkjet inks for

Two LED’s are mounted on both sides of the print Durable barrier performance against liquids/water anE-‐counterfeiEng, tracking and tracing purposes head and moving along with the print head DACHCOM DACHCOM Wetting Agents and ondifficult substratequalities.“Create unforgettable impressions” withHANSAsilicones. additives offer anexcellentprintingperformance,highefficiency andbestreliability evenwiththelowestapplicationamounts based onorgano-modifiedsilicones,flawlessprintingresults formaximumqualitydemandscanbeachieved.CHTsilicone rotogravure Withoursubstratewettingagents,surfaceadditivesanddefoamingsystems inksaswellvarnishes. CHT R.BeitlichGmbHhasexpandeditsassortmentofspecialsiliconeproducts witharangeofadditivesforflexoand Silicone additiveS CHT BELGIUMN.V. |President Kennedypark 39|8500KortrijkTel 003256203114|Fax0119www.cht.com |[email protected] |

LeveLLing Agents/s urf A ce Additives makethe difference | d efoA mers |

HydropH obic Agents

P.B. TechTextiel PROGRESS REPORT 2012

The chairman’s editorial

Techtera ranked in the top 20 French innovation clusters, as they are the foundation on which are based the innovative «very effective»: the results of the national assessment of efforts of the firms and laboratories. the clusters, made for the State by a consortium of French Certification ensures transparency, traceability and process audit companies, were given at the beginning of summer quality. In our world of extreme competition between economic 2012. Of course, these results are a great success for us. In groups, it is also the guarantee of confidentiality. It is in fact their assessment report on Techtera, the auditors point out the centre of the system. three of the cluster’s success factors; namely, the ongoing Detect paths for innovation and follow up until projects are cooperation with Japan, the ratification of the innovation completed, find funding, put future partners into contact, processes through ISO 9001 certification, the role of the communicate and support international development; Innovation Workshops in the emergence of R&D projects of Techtera’s services for its members are part of the dual cluster members. mission of French innovation clusters. Relations with Japan are among the oldest that the clus- From 2005 to 2012, their role was that of «project maker», ter has formed internationally. The first meetings with the concentrated on the production of R&D projects. As from Japan Chemical Fibers Association began in 2007 and have 2013, and the 2013-2018 strategic roadmap that all the intensified year by year. At the end of 2012, Techtera clusters sign up to with the funders, they also become «product joined the Franco-Japanese textile work group set up by the makers». They strengthen and support the transition from French and Japanese governments to develop technology R&D to the production-marketing-selling of innovative partnerships and strengthen trade ties between the two products - creators of wealth through competitivity. countries. Work will continue in 2013. The Innovation Workshops are at the heart of the services Louis Vovelle offered by Techtera to industrialists and researchers; Who are we?

In France, an innovation cluster unites firms, research innovation efforts: monitoring, Innovation Workshops, Seven projects financed by FUI, the government fund One PSPC project (structural R&D project for the innovation laboratories, technical centres, universities and colleges, «project» work groups, analysis and approval of R&D dedicated to French innovation clusters: clusters) for a particular area and industry, to develop collaboration projects, help with the search for funding, support for and multi-partner R&D projects, with the aim of increasing SMEs in setting up European projects, etc. • BALLOO (light aircraft fuel tank, crashworthy and • SINFONI company competitiveness. • Encouraging contacts and the technology transfer: ballistic-impact resistant) The aim: organise the French technical plant-fibre sector Cart’tex, the map of rare textile skills; meetings between The aim: develop a soft fuel tank based on 3D textile preforms (flax, hemp), bringing together industrialists and academics Established in 2005, Techtera is THE innovation cluster for firms and customers. for aircraft (civil and military aircraft, helicopters, gliders, with strong complementary skills to the entire value chain, textiles and flexible materials in the Rhône-Alpes Region. • Communication to promote the vitality and innovation of etc). This will be more effective, in terms of standards, in and improve the performance of plant fibres and reinfor- Techtera has 119 members (2012 figures), 79% of which the cluster members and the industry as a whole case of crashes or ballistic impact. cements. Three areas are targeted: insulation, concrete are industrial, and 76% of the cluster’s members are located • Helping and boosting the international development of Twelve partners - budget: 3.5m and composites. in the Rhône-Alpes. € the firms. Twenty partners - budget: 14.5m • BATIR € Our actions are: The aim: develop industrial-scale innovative technology One regional ITC project (Technological Innovation for • supporting firms and research organisations in their for cold-plasma surface treatment at atmospheric pressure Clusters) to increase the functional performance of flexible materials and expand the range of their potential applications. • SENSOCLIM The aim: establish a bioclimatic technology platform for Eight partners - budget: €2m assessing the hygrothermal comfort provided by textiles • BIONICOMP and other materials. Led by: IFTH (French Institute of We keep The aim: improve the performance of composites rein- Textiles and Clothing). forced with natural fibre and thermosetting elastomer Six partners - budget: €350,000 matrices. This uses a grafting technique activated by ionisation to optimise the fibre/matrix bond. The overall on innovation objective of the project is to enable biosourced composites - based on flax for example - to compete with the performance of «traditional» glass fibre composites, In Innovation Workshops offering materials that are lighter in weight with less impact A first: the Cart’tex map on the environment. of textile skills (Open to members and non-members) Seven partners - budget: €3.2m Organised for researchers and industrialists, they are the • FOMOTEX (an innovative dry-impregnation process Right now, the Cart’tex map of rare textile skills lists trademark of Techtera. The principle is: one half or full to endow coatings, textile underlayers and foam with about 120 skills and very specific textile technologies, day on a theme with speakers who are experts on subjects improved barrier properties) leading to innovation. The aim: help innovative ventures to with 17 firms audited since the project started in The aim: develop non-flammable latex-free textile under- emerge; these are then worked at in follow-up groups 2011. This high-tech expertise comes from the textile & layers with multifunctional characteristics and comply with dedicated to mounting projects. Each Workshop gives birth Examples of R D projects in industry and each firm listed. It could answer the technical current regulations. The manufacturing process used is to one or two R&D projects. requirements not only of textile firms, but all sectors of activity. 2012: dry-powder impregnation (no water or solvents), giving a Cart’tex is a tool for creating business opportunities, In 2012, three Innovation Workshops were organised on the significant reduction in water and power consumption. technology transfer to other textile industries and the following topics: Six partners - budget: €2m development of innovation. Dedicated software has been • skills of the Ecoles des Mines d’Albi, Alès, Paris and Fifteen R&D projects were funded and launched in 2012; • HUMEVERE (functional vegetable oils for green formu- developed. A web portal will be accessible to all potential Saint-Etienne, in the field of textile composites. 70 companies involved, including 31 SMEs; and 29 research lation of polymers) users in France and abroad. Launch: 2013. • A revolutionary technology for the surface treatment of laboratories and/or technical centres The aim: substitute vegetable oil for fossil oils in the materials: chromatogeny. Total budget for R&D projects: €44.6m formulation of polymeric materials while retaining their • Upgrading the carbon in composites. Amount of funding: €18.8m (2012 figures) technical and economic performance. Among these: A follow-up group is organised after each Innovation Eight partners - budget: €3.7m Workshop. Its work is coordinated by the cluster, which Three projects funded by the European Union: • MultiMaFs (multifunctional materials for placing dry continues the thought initiated with the aim of establishing • ECOLASTANE a joint R&D project. fibre) The ”Extras” provided The aim: develop biosourced polyester and polyurethane, The aim: develop materials that improve the electrical In 2012, four follow-up groups were active, working on: using renewable resources chosen from waste or unused conductivity and mechanical strength of carbon-fibre- by the cluster: • The upgrading of textiles at the end of their service life by-products. The fibres obtained replace the current based composites used in aircraft. This is to increase non-biosourced fibres with exactly the same properties. • Polysensoriality their resistance to harmful electrical effects (lightning, • Engineers specialised in textile and chemical There are nine partners from four different countries, • Carbon composites current load, electromagnetic fields). projects, ability to propose and advise. including three laboratories, three clusters and three • Chromatogeny Eight partners - budget: 2.3m • Of those coming to the Innovation Workshops, between firms; one of the firms is a member of Techtera. Techtera € is one of the project partners. • REPTILES (fitting waterproof liners in drinking-water 70% and 90% are from industry. pipes) • Cart’tex is a first: the textile map presents tech- • TEX SHIELD The aim: develop a robotic method for rehabilitating buried nologies that have not been identified and listed so The aim: develop hydrophobic processes to replace cur- water mains from the interior, using a new type of pre- far. It meets just as precisely a request from a textile rent processes based on the fluorinated resins using impregnated textile reinforcement with a thermoplastic manufacturer as a request from an industry in a the cleaner sol-gel chemistry. Led by the British textile matrix. cluster NWTexnet, this project brings together twelve different sector of activity in search of technological partners, four German, Bulgarian and Turkish firms and Seven partners - budget: €6m solutions for a product or process. three famous research laboratories: TWI (Cambridge), Ghent University and INSA Lyon. • TEXTILE 2020 associates eight European textile clusters - including Techtera and UP-tex from France - for grouped international development action to benefit their members in the major export countries targeted by the European Union. Techtera coordinates the International Development Plan of the Rhône-Alpes textile industry, implemented by the cluster and its partner «Espace Textile», organisation promoting the industry.

Some examples of action in 2012: • Techtera accompanied five firms to the JEC Americas (Boston), in association with the innovation clusters Axelera and Plastipolis under the banner «Composites Rhône-Alpes». There was a preview of the innovations presented at JEC and IFAI, the textile show organised in parallel to the JEC. It was distributed to members on request. • Techtera invited and hosted a prestigious delegation of Japanese firms, universities and institutions: eleven participants (Japan Chemical Fibers Association, universities, clusters, SMEs) selected by the cluster for a programme of visits and meetings, including B-to-B appointments with members. • Ten companies were signed up for the textile technology partnership mission, organised with the Up-Tex innovation The ”Extras” provided cluster, in Korea and Taiwan. Of these ten participants, by the cluster: six were members of Techtera (four major groups, two SMEs). Techtera is one of eight partner clusters of the • A poster of the 51st Man Made Fibers Congress in Dornbirn European Textile 2020 programme. The purpose of (Austria), a conference on the theme: «Intelligent and this group, representing more than 860 technical insightful textiles». textile firms, research laboratories and technical • Techtera participated in the scientific workshop organised centres located in six countries (Germany, Spain, by Tohoku University (Japan), the International Laboratory France, Italy, Czech Republic, United Kingdom): to ELyT Lab, the Science Council of Japan and UNESCO, in speak with one voice on the world stage, gain visibility Sendai. The work theme: «Innovative method for dissipating and develop new markets and business and/or the energy of tsunamis and limiting their impact». technology partnerships. More specifically, in Europe: Textile 2020 has a schedule of actions (shows, business trips, workshops, etc) in five target countries of the EUROMATIERE is a programme to help SMEs set up programme: Japan, South Korea, Canada, Brazil European R&D projects. and Tunisia. Launched in 2010, it brings together three innovation clusters: Axelera, Plastipolis, Techtera (leader) and is funded by the DGCIS (general directorate for innovation, industry and services). We support the development The programme provides French SMEs with: • workshops for awareness about European calls for projects. Two Europe Workshops were held in 2012 on: of our network • call for projects from the European Eco-Innovation Commission. • Presentation of offers and the search for partnerships. In France and abroad: The cluster defines and implements an annual action plan • Registration for scientific conferences about upgrading • Individual support for firms. to increase its outreach, promote innovations developed by and R&D projects. In 2012, one enterprise received an individual diagnosis, its members, and highlight the initiatives, vitality and • Establishing contacts between firms and research orga- through Euromatière. Twenty-three SMEs have been performance of the firms and the whole textile industry. nisations members of partner clusters. diagnosed since the launch of the project. Six SMEs have • A monthly newsletter, «Spinning Info», in three languages been funded through European R&D projects in two years, In 2012, Techtera guided and implemented: (French, English, Japanese) sent to over 2500 recipients. for a total amount of €1.2m. • Ten press releases about R&D projects funded, and news • participation in prestigious international shows: JEC about the cluster. Paris and the Americas (composites), Pollutec Lyon, etc, • One press kit of portraits of firms and research laboratories with joint stands or groups of firms and organisational- for the international press. logistical-communication services. • Joint missions of technology and business partnerships The Techtera website is available in four languages: French, for export, in collaboration with Ubifrance and a pro- English, German, Japanese. gramme individually designed for the participants. • Hosting foreign delegations and organising B-to-B meetings between companies and the guest laboratories and members of Techtera, in response to the needs of each participant. The success stories Lexicon of our members for • The JEC Americas Innovation Award (category «carbon») was given to the textile group Chomarat for its product C-PLY Bi-Angle™ developed with the American and Korean non-specialist universities of Stanford and Hanyang. A biaxial carbon textile made from unidirectional layers sewn together Biomaterials or biosourced materials: plant mechanically, using a special materials (wood, hemp, flax, cork, etc) or animal process for spreading the fibres. materials (feathers, sheep wool, etc) Target markets: automotive, wind energy, aerospace,sports Sol-gel chemistry: a process, formerly called & leisure, industry. «green chemistry», used in various fields, such as the encapsulation and preparation of hyper-porous materials. It is in the depositing of • The 2012 Théophile Legrand International Prize for thin layers that finds its main application. Textile Innovation was awarded to researcher Pierre- Alexandre Bourgeois at the Claude-Bernard Lyon 1 Chromatogeny: a new green chemistry process university (institute of research into catalysis and the to give lingo-cellulosic materials (including paper environment) for the luminous textile he developed in and cardboard) biocompatible barrier properties partnership with Brochier against water, grease and gas. Technologies. Applications targeted for this innovative photo- E-textiles: textiles incorporating electronic com- catalytic textile: the treatment ponents - also called smart or intelligent textiles. of air, particularly the depollution of indoor air, an important Composite materials: material consisting of at public health issue for years to least two components whose respective qualities come. combine to form a material with improved overall performance. A composite generally consists of a reinforcement in fibrous or filamentary form • One of the ten winners of the 2012 awards given by the and a matrix acting as binder. We distinguish MIT Technology Review to innovators under 35 years is mass-market composites and high-performance 2012: facts and figures Etienne Perret, researcher at LCIS (laboratory of design composites used particularly in aeronautics and and systems integration) of the University of Grenoble space. Alpes for work he has done, particularly in the THID project, approved by Techtera and funded by the ANR (national Techtera among the top 20 French innovation clusters MISTRAL: the innovation hub now has a «Textiles and Flexible materials: leather, paper, sheeting, etc - research agency) in 2009. Theme of his research: the de- for high performance Uses» laboratory materials with the ability to undergo deformation velopment of cheap and highly sensitive radio frequency without this being irreversible. A very successful assessment for Techtera, at the end of MISTRAL, the textiles and flexible materials technology identification tags. the study carried out in the first half of 2012 by assessors hub, continued to develop in Ecully (Rhône) in 2012. Unique Photocatalysis: activation of a chemical reaction of the BearingPoint-Erdyn-Technopolis ITD consortium, in France, this tool dedicated to innovation in firms, espe- by photons, which act as a catalyst. mandated by the government for the second phase in the cially SMEs, will focus on providing services for the design, Innovation platform: place gathering technical national assessment of the innovation cluster policy. development, prototyping and implementation of innovative equipment and services - with the general objective Techtera ranks in the top tier of the 20 French clusters rated products and processes by manufacturers. To do this, MISTRAL of spreading the culture of innovation to SMEs. and gets «very effective» for the action taken between 2008 will bring together: and 2011, the period covered by the assessment. • technologies transferable to the SMEs. Collaborative R&D: research and development The assessment report highlights the good practices and • Innovation support services available from Techtera. 2012 includes creative work in order to increase the outstanding action of the cluster. • A «Textiles and Uses» laboratory focused on employing sum of knowledge and its use in new applica- Three specific issues were identified: and assembling textiles for the construction industry and tions. It includes basic research, applied research • the ongoing partnership with Japan. the habitat. and experimental development to launch new • Ratification of procedures and ISO 9001 certification - • A national multi-skills centre for young people training in figures products. R&D is collaborative when conducted gained in 2008 renewed in 2011 for three years. with the «Compagnons du Devoir et du Tour de France» by a minimum of three partners. • The procedure for creating joint R&D projects and, in (French organisation for artisans), the project’s partners, 119 members Plasma technology: a technology for producing particular, the cluster’s Innovation Workshops available to optimise the use of textiles and flexible materials in different types of surface treatments. Textile for manufacturers and researchers. their 27 trades. 22 approved R&D projects, including 16 co-approved treatment by cold plasma can modify the surface 15 funded projects properties of the fibres without changing the Louis Vovelle, vice-chairman Innovation and Strategy of qualities of their internal structure. It will, for Bluestar Silicones, elected chairman of Techtera 6.9 partners on average per project example, improve the adhesive strength of a surface On June 21, 2012, the Techtera board of directors elected 11 Workshops of fibres intended for use in composite materials. Louis Vovelle, vice-chairman Innovation and Strategy 3 shows of Bluestar Silicones, a world-leading manufacturer of silicones, as its chairman. A graduate from the Ecole 33 newsletters distributed to 2650 contacts Nationale Supérieure de Chimie de Paris (ENSCP), Louis 11 press releases in French and to the foreign press Vovelle, 54, has spent his entire career in the chemical industry, in Rhône-Poulenc and Rhodia, before joining 19,000 visits to our website www.techtera.org Bluestar Silicones in 2007. The team

Agnès Arrivé Bruno Mougin Head of Innovation-Workshops Project Manager [email protected] [email protected]

Rieul Dubail Virginie Raison Assistant Manager Project Coordinator - Textile 2020 [email protected] [email protected]

Corinne Farace Gaëtan Romuald Managing Director Project Manager [email protected] [email protected]

Anne Masson Hélène Viallon Communication & International Manager Executive Assistant [email protected] [email protected]

Members on December 31, 2012:

ABISS, ACTIVATION, ADERA, AHLSTROM, ALBANY Laboratoire de recherche LCIS, LES TISSAGES DE CHARLIEU, INTERNATIONAL, ALLIANCE MACHINES TEXTILES, ALPEX LYON INGENIERIE PROJETS, MANUFACTURE FRANCAISE PROTECTION, ALPOL COSMETIQUE, ANTHOGYR, ARDEJE, DES PNEUMATIQUES MICHELIN, MAPEA, MARDUEL, ARKEMA, AZUR TEXTILES, BANC NATIONAL D’EPREUVE, MARITON, MASSEBEUF, MAT - MATHELIN APPRETS BENAUD CREATIONS, BILLION MAYOR INDUSTRIE, TEINTURES, MERMET, MESSIER BUGATTI, MOLYPHARM, BLANCHARD, BLANCHISSERIE INDUSTRIELLE DU MONNET, MONTDOR, MULTIBASE, OURDISSAGE CENTRE – BIC, BLUESTAR SILICONES, BOLDODUC, ENCOLLAGE D’AMPLEPUIS – OEA, OUVRY, PALCHEM, BROCHIER TECHNOLOGIES, BUITEX RECYCLAGE, CAPI, PAPETERIE GEREX, PAUPORTE, POCKUS, PÔLE DES CENTRE DE FORMATION DE LA PLASTURGIE, CENTRE TECHNOLOGIES MEDICALES, POLYMAGE, POLYTRAME, TECHNIQUE DU PAPIER, CERMAV-CNRS, CHAMATEX, PORCHER, PROMEGA, PROVERBIO, PYLOTE, RAIDLIGHT, CHEYNET & FILS, CHOMARAT, CNRS, COMPOSITEC, CTC, RHOVYL, SCHAPPE TECHNIQUES, SCIENCE ET SURFACE, CTMI, CTTN-IREN, DECATHLON, DEMARLE, DENIS & FILS, SFATE & COMBIER, SIGNOPTIC TECHNOLOGIES, SIGVARIS, DIATEX, DICKSON PTL, DIM, EADS, ECOLE CENTRALE DE SKF, SOFILETA, SOFRADIM PRODUCTION, SOFRANCE, LYON, ECOLE DES MINES D’ALES, EGIS STRUCTURES ET SULITEC INSULATING COMPOSITES, SUPPLEO, TAIWAN ENVIRONNEMENT, ELYT3, ENSAIT, ENSCL, ENTPE – LGCB, TEXTILE RESEARCH INSTITUTE, TDV INDUSTRIES, TEIN- ENVEHO, EURACLI, EVEA CONSEIL, FERRARI, FIBROLINE, TURERIES ET APPRETS DU GAND, TEINTURES APPRETS FINANCIERE MOUZON, GRAIN DE COULEUR, HOLDING DANJOUX, TEXINOV, TEXTILES DE LA DUNIERE, THOR, TEXTILE HERMES, IFTH, INS, INSA DE LYON, IONISOS, ITECH, THUASNE, TRI – VALLEES, UCBL Laboratoire C2P2, JULIEN FAURE, JUXTA, LA CELLIOSE, LABORATOIRE 3S-R, UNITEX, UNIVERSITE CLAUDE BERNARD LYON 1 LABORATOIRE TETRA MEDICAL, LABORATOIRES INNOTHERA,

To sign up for the Spinning Info newsletter, send an email to: [email protected]

Techtera Villa Créatis 2 rue des Mûriers CP 601 69258 Lyon cdx 09 France

Tel: 00 33 4 20 30 28 80 More information: www.techtera.co.uk AD : L.Lacroix - Courtesy of: Bel Maille, Brochier Technologies, CEA-Leti/G.Cottet, Chomarat, France Télécom, Messe Frankfurt/Jean-Luc Valentin, PEP–Centre Technique de la Plasturgie et des Composites, Rovitex, Laurent Cerino/Techtera. de la Plasturgie et des Composites, Rovitex, Laurent Technique PEP–Centre CEA-Leti/G.Cottet, Chomarat, France Télécom, Messe Frankfurt/Jean-Luc Valentin, Technologies, - Courtesy of: Bel Maille, Brochier AD : L.Lacroix Research for SME-AGs - TEX-SHIELD FP7-SME-2011

Tex-Shield

Research for SME Associations Environmental friendly and Durable Oil and Water Repellence Finish on Technical Textile Proposal full title: Environmental friendly andNewsletter 1 Durable Oil and water repellence finish on Technical Textiles Proposal acronym: TEX-SHIELD Type of funding scheme: Research for the benefit of SME Associations.

New European Research Project (1.12.2012 – 30.11.2014)

Participant Participant Participant Participant State number full name short name type Participant Participant Participant Participant State Participant Participant ParticipantParticipant ParticipantParticipant State Participant Participant State number full name short name type SME-Associations: Associatio number full name shortnumber name typefull name short name type Name and organisation of the coordinatingn person: Steve Kay, NWTEX , UK 2 UP3- Tex UNITEXSME AG UNITEXFR SMEAAssociation BE 1 NWTe xnet NWTEX SME -AG UK Email: [email protected] Techtera AG F Techtera List of participants: UP-Tex Research partners: TWI (UK) University College Ghent (TOParticipant description2C) INSA Lyon (Fr) Participant description Participant description – Participant description UNITEX is the National Association of (technical) executives of the textile industry in NWTEX is a support organisation forParticipant the textile sector no./ based in the North West of the UK. Context Belgium. Techtera is the French cluster dedicatedParticipant to technical Short textiles. This non-profit organisation is We offer support to our 450 memberThe Up companies-Tex Type Cluster in aof number is an association of different ways: of SME’s, Participant industrial groups, name research and technology Country located in Lyon (Rhone-Alpes area), whichname historically concentrates leaders of the textile transfer participant centres. Up-Tex hasThe been association approved is based as a on Scientific the support Cluster of volunteers; by the Frenchthe boarder consists of CEOs, The textile SME-Associations in this consortium has come together to represent textile SMEs, which are part of a sector that employs 1.9  Training and skills developmentgovernment on 12 July 2005.manager For a directors period ranging of different 2009industry. textile 2015, companies, The the objective Cluster’s and ofsuppliers Techtera aim is to is to promote the technical and technological innovation  Access to funding streams become1/SME a European-AG benchmarkNORT inH theWEST field TEXTILES of Advancedwithin NETWORK his Textile partners, Materials, by generating SensoryNWTEX and providing solutionsUK for the management of R&D  Involvement in technology development projects Million people in Europe with a turnover that is expected to reach €260 Billion by 2015. It has been established that oPerception(Co-ord) Technology and Mass Customisation. Up-Texprojects objectivesur Members require and connectingare to industrial partners with research structures.  Lobbying on a regional and national basis for the sector an environmentally responsible textile treatment  Marketing with and PR the for ability the sector to 2/SME have -AG strong crosslinks ASSOCIATI with ON the UP- fabric, TEX to provide durable Up-Tex France  Federate the best competenciesBeside for members preparing in andBelgium, optimizingTechtera UNITEX projects hashas also 110 as members to members well as in serveother with countries more than (Netherlands, 80% of manufacturing companies. The multifunctional performance. There is a growing Role market in the project need, for different applications require Germany, different France...). Its fun activitiesctionality. mainly consist It is an of monthly added presentations on technical and Co-ordinator and training and disseminationas 3/SMEa vector - role.forAG their exposure, UNITEX dissemination, association has assisted 106 Unitexcollaborative R&D projectsBelgium since 2005. The activities of the general topics, which mightTechtera be of interest members to the textileare dealing industry, with the aerospace, edition of a healthcare,bimonthly civil engineering and buildings, advantage for the industry to be able to access materials at a highly competitive price. Staff engaged in the project Replace textiles at theRecognising heart ASSOCIATIONof the materials this need of our members, T of TECHTERA tomorrow through innovativeEX-S HIELDapplica tions 4/SME-AG journal as well as the organizationpersonal of Protectiveinternational Equipment… congressesTechtera such as European CoatingFrance in terms of functionality andCongress usage, (biennial), thus paving European the Digital way for Pr inting a large Congress number (biennial) of and World Carpet project is aimed to develop a feasible solution. Various alternatives have been considered.Steve Kay 5/OTHER Shorter chain materials such as those based on PANAZ LIMITED PAN UK C6 chemistry are more rapidly degraded in the environment, but in the opportunities longer in term any sectors offering PFC Congress high material (triennial).added may have value suchRole as potential in transportation the project issues –(aeronautics with – Yvonne Birch automobile6/OTHER – railway), health EVA , COMMERCE building and civilLTD engineering, sports and leisureEVA, Bulgaria sustainability and ecological performance. Additionally, neither the shorter functional cworkhain PFCs nor the current silicone attire (protectiveUNITEX equipment, also publishes etc.) -The abased alternatives have well role-organised of Techtera bimonthly in the project magazine. deals UNITEX with diffusion organizes and dissemination of the results and 7/OTHER DECCA the intellectual property generatedDECCA during the work by theBelgi RTDum partners. The association been developed to a point where they deliver the Relevant necessary experience/products/projects/publications performance to meet  Speed up the development the industry’s durability and international of markets symposia and activities as well, repellence stand oftenrelated in tocollaboration Advancedards. with Textile other associations such as Materials8/OTHER and Product PerceptionSAMPASFEDUSTRIA, through NANOTEKNOLOJI CENTEXBEL the Senseswill andby organize setting UnARAS.iversity uptwo GEL. scientific Collegeworkshops Paz. ofprograms Ghent.atSNano the end Members of the canproject call opened onTurkey to member and non-member Consequently, we, the Textile industrial community, They are involved need in an 3 EU altern fundedand ative projects: collaborative to 1 x Marie PFC -Curie, ResearchC8 to 1 x Research be UNITEX & developed, Developm for for the all benefitkindsent which (R&D) of (mainly p projects,artners. is technical) durable Specific in information an and effort diffusion equally free to enhance of of charge. the results will occur within the network of the industrial SME's, 1 Large Scale Collaborative. Tic. Ltd. Sti. members of the cluster. performs. To amend the solution will require both chemical and cooperation process 9/OTHER expertise between companies beyond OurCTF missions: and 2000 that research n.v available laboratories in our community and, CTF Belgium consequently, we are running this project TEX-SHIELD funded by the EuIn terms of project management Fosterropean commission. and the co -ordinationdevelopment they of have innovation the following at scientific, relevant technologicalStaff engaged and in industrial the project levels – as expertise: well10/RTDP as at intangible and managerial TWI LimitedPromoting levels, particularlythe interests through of the textile mass sector customization and signalizeTWI and new developments, UK also to meet the customer’s latestresearchers, expectations developers inS1 terms- Dr.from Bruno ofnational personalized MOUGIN, or international projects products, research manager institutes in Techtera  2003-2011: Management of RDA 11/RTDPfunded cluster development project UNIVERSITY COLLEGE OF GHENT UCG Belgium Objectives  2004-2006: UKTI export promoterthrough for UK a technicalsustainable textiles development  Promoting approach. services  2003-present : Numerous shortRole term12/RTDP in the( sub project 6 month) projects involving INSTITUT Promoting/stimulatingmultiple NATIONAL partners DESS2 textile- MrsSCIENCES researchAgnès ARRIVE, and textile innovation educationINSA workshops(academic-LYON and manager Francein Techtera in both private and public sectorsUp-Tex will also organise theAPPLIQUEES disseminationtechnical DElevel) and LYON transfer of the project results to its Relevant experience/products/projects/publications – The main purpose of the TEX-SHIELD project is to address the problems associated with textile protection by:Benefits expected from participationmember and to those involved in TEX Promoting-SHIELD, networking as well as social other between European industry, SMEs. research, education, suppliers and A workshop should be organised by Upall people-Tex in interested France. in textile We would want to ensure the IP/research generated by the project is Informing exploited fortextile the companyThe association on different Techterapossibilities is onqualified national ISO and 9001international with a specific program on the collaborative maximum benefit of our memberUp -companies.Tex, will create a strong network for the promotionprojects. of sol1 -gel coatings. Up-Tex will Eliminating problems with C8 PFCs' by-products associated with textile treatments.organise RDT Seminar based on academlevel ofic research partners projects for the dissemination of results and Role in the project Participant URL – www.nwtexnet.co.ukon the evolution of norms for PPE and home furniture. Providing a cost-effective alternative treatment, which allows textiles to be provided with dur-able anti Within the-soiling/anti frame of theWe- staining properties project organize the aimaround of UNITEX4 workshops. is to per disseminate year on technological information, innovation and we have a very Up-Tex will publish in a newsletter all results obtained in the project and will organize Reducing the total fluorine content in the treatment by means of new sol-gel derived additives in the forfacilitate transferm of nanoparticles or inorganic of knowhowgood to re thesult part sinceicipating the half companies of the participant and RTDs onget the involved one hand in a collaborative project. specific convention in order to promote the commercialisation of products at European organic hybrid networks. and a general dissemination of the out comings of the project to other textile level, during the two last years ofcompanies, TEX-SHIELD. RTDs and researchBenefits institutes. expected from participation Demonstrating performance on a representative scale with regards Staff to engaged key technical in the project parameters - To stimulate incl networkinguding soil between resistance, the partners abrasion of the project. - To communicate and disseminati80% of on the of membersproject results of theto a associationbroad range Techteraof companies are via industrial partners. A large part of resistance, cleaning cycle resistance. Stéphan VERIN - Stéphan VERINour is website,the International journal (edition Affairsthem are numberManager SMEs 1500) (59of Up SMEs, and-Tex. organisation withHe has less than of round 250 -employetables andes). The application domains of the Creating additional advantageous functions such as anti-static and aanti Master-microbial characteristics to improve stability against mechanical, in European Affairs andsymposia 15 years of experiencessolutions in Econom generatedic Development. in TEX-SHIELD He are OUTDOOR/SPORT (we have 24 SMEs in this chemical impacts. is also deeply involved in theStaff management engaged in andthe project disseminationmarket), FURNISHING of CROSSTEXNET, (we have the 20 SMEs in this market) and PPE (we have 23 SMEs in ERANET project dedicated to High Performances Textilesthis market). Developing flexible and versatile solutions for a broad range of textile supports different in structure (woven, knitted) and > Prof Dr Marc Van Parys is president of UNITEX basic andfibres prof at University College Ghent. (natural, synthetic or mixtures). Julien PAYEN 34- Julien PAYENHe is is the already project more Manager then 35The on years Health/protection technical active in program Textile and research of thesecurity TEX and - SHIELD education. project He is alsois very interesting. The new coating adviser at Centexbel, nationalsolutions textile researchare more centre, sustainable and many than textile existing companies. one based He is on highly fluorinated chemicals. It markets of Up-Tex. He haddoctor a PhD in Chemistry degree and in textileas such engineering from the start and of his 5 career years in of the textile education and Developing a solution with a low ecological footprint, based on REACHexperiences-proof chemicals and taking in to account safety and health issues. in Textile Industry. He is also deeply should involved provide in the benefits management for our SMEs of in terms of competitiveness that they won’t have been Providing a full Life Cycle Analysis (including washability cycle) and assessment of technoDIMETEX, an Interreg project -economic ben dedicated to Textileefits, vi Medicalablea benchmarking against Devices. to develop by themselves.

current products. Participant URL –37www.techtera.org Providing the necessary technological transfer and training via SME- associations to ensure awareness and take up throughout the EC.

35 SME-association – Contact persons 39 Steve Kay – projectleader – NWTexnet (UK) www.nwtexnet.co.uk Prof. Dr. Marc Van Parys – UNITEX (B) www.unitex.be

Julien Payen – Up-Tex (Fr) www.Up-Tex.fr Dr. Bruno Mougin – Techtera (Fr) www.techtera.org

Articel 1: Low energy Treatments for Textiles - Alan Taylor (TWI)

The ability of a surface to self-clean or be anti-fouling is often associated with the surface being characterised as exhibiting the lotus leaf effect. This phenomenon refers to the superhydrophobicity of surfaces due to its complex nanoscopic and microscopic nature which minimizes adhesion. It is exhibited by the leaves of the lotus flower which lends its name to the effect.

To mimic this effect in textiles, nanoscale features are imposed on the textile surface or on a micro-scale surface created on the textile surface. Alternatives are the inclusion of water repellant agents which have an inherent hydrophobicity. The hydrophobicity of the surface is related to its water contact angle; the higher the contact angle, the greater the hydrophobicity of the surface. Due to surface Above: Water droplets on a hydrophobic treated surface roughness, gas is entrapped under the water drop thus minimising the contact showing a contact angle of 90º (left) and untreated between the water and the surface. Contact angles greater than 90º are considered hydrophobic, with those in excess of 150º generally considered to be surface showing a contact angle <90º (right). superhydrophobic or self-cleaning.

The oldest method of achieving water repellence or hydrophobicity of fabrics was by coating with paraffin or wax. Such coatings eventually washed out and are little used today. A number of approaches to increase the hydrophobicity of a textile surface have since been developed.

The last three decades has seen the increased use of perfluorochemicals or fluorocarbons as water repellent agents to achieve water and oil, and increasingly stain-repellent textiles. Such coatings are typically described as having low (free) surface energy and generally result in contact angles of greater than 100º. A simple and early approach in this regard was the joining of such chemicals onto binders, such as acrylic or polyurethane, which adhered them to the textile surface. Examples include an aqueous emulsion comprising polymers derived from monomers having a perfluoroalkyl group of about C4-C14, which was applied to a textile and then oven dried. Application of the emulsion onto a wide range of textiles, including cotton and nylon, using a range of deposition techniques, such as spraying and dipping, resulted in fabrics with both water and oil repellence. Such coatings have evolved over time with latest embodiments comprising both a hydrophobic and hydrophilic agent, that are fluorine-containing, and a cross linking agent wherein the surface energy of the coating changes in response to temperature. This coating for cotton containing textiles is designed to impart durable oil and water repellence even when exposed to multiple wash cycles.

Another very different approach to the provision of fluorocarbon on a textile is by using plasma treatment. Radio-frequency inductively coupled SF6 plasma on cotton achieved a contact angle of 149º. The technique, in addition to depositing fluorine on the fabric surface, created a micro-roughness on the fibres due to the etching thus enhancing the hydrophobic effect. A highly hydrophobic textile is achieved, with fluorine again present on the surface, when a hexafluoroethane plasma is employed. In addition to imparting good hydrophobicity on textiles, fluoropolymer based methods are often the most cost effective to use. However, for ecological reasons, the fluorocarbon polymer technology is increasingly under pressure and alternatives are being sought and deployed.

One such alternative is the development of perfluorooctane sulfonic acid (PFOS) free fluororcarbon water repellent agents, the so called C6 and C8 fluoropolymers or chemistry. PFOS and perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) are found at most in small quantities as byproducts when manufacturing fluorine-containing impregnating agents. These substances do not degrade in the environment and are considered to pose a toxicity risk although this had not been examined thoroughly.

Products based on C8, manufactured using the telomerisation method, generally contain <1ppm PFOA and are classed as bioaccumulative [5]. They typically do not contain PFOS. Products based on C6 generally much lower levels of PFOA (<5ppb) and are considered to be non- bioaccumulative. They are often referred to as PFOS and PFOA-free fluorocarbon water repellents [6]. As with C8 based products, they typically do not contain PFOS. Although C8 contains more PFOA compared to C6, it has better adhesion to a fabric surface and is a more effective water- and oil-repellent therefore less has to be used in a coating to achieve the same effect as C6. Companies are exploring other shorter chain carbon lengths e.g. C4, which is the basis of the new Scotchgard™ Protector Repellent Finish, in order to reduce toxicity and the potential environmental impact of their products.

Thin polymer coatings, such as polymerised siloxanes, have been developed mainly as an alternative to using fluoropolymers at all for hydrophobicity. For argon plasma deposited polymerised hexamethyldisiloxane on polyester, contact angles of 120º – 142º were achieved. A water contact angle of 178º, possibility the highest ever shown and considering the theoretical maximum is 180 º, on a polyester surface has been demonstrated. Following a theoretical approach, nylon-6,6 short fibres were coated using the flocking process, onto a polyester surface. Poly(acrylic acid) chains were first grafted onto the nylon fibers followed by the grafting of 1H,1H-perfluorooctylamine onto the poly(acrylic acid) chains. This aimed at mimicing the surface of a lotus leaf so as to create a superhydrophobic surface on the polyester. Above: fibre coated with nanoparticles

The incorporation of nanoparticles typically in combination with a thin polymer coating to achieve a nano-roughness on the textile surface and a corresponding increase in hydrophobicity have been developed. The use of silica nanoparticles has been shown for a range of textiles including cotton and polyester. A contact angel of greater than 90º appear readily achievable on cotton using fumed silica nanoparticles or silica particles synthesized by the Stöber method. Contact angles of greater up to and greater than 150º have been achieved by way of multiple dip-coatings on cotton using nanosilica and on polyester using silica nanoparticles.

A silica sol deposited on cotton yielded a contact angel of 155º whilst on polyester a contact angle of 143º was measured. A self-cleaning coating with a roll-off angle of 10º to 20º (a roll-off angle of less than 10º, like a contact angel of 150º, is considered superhydrophobic) is claimed for textile surfaces of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polyacrylonitrile (PAN) through use of a hydrolysed tetraethoxysilane incorporating hydrophobic particles such as precipitated or pyrogenic silicas.

The combination of silica nanoparticles and a fluorinated alkyl silane has been reported, yielding a superhydrophobic surface on textile [16] however the drawback of using fluoropolymer is inherent in this approach. The earliest commercially available nanoparticle satin- or soil- repellent coatings for fabric (Nano-tex and GreenShield) although using nanoparticles were in fact based on fluorocarbon chemistry.

Alternatives to silica including silver, aluminium oxide, copper, titanium dioxide and iron oxide have been explored. Silver nanoparticles offer the advantage over silica particles in reduced agglomeration when dip coating. There is however a cost penalty in their use especially in the textile field. Superhydrophobic coatings on polyester, with contact angles in the range 138º -150º, using silver nanoparticles have been shown [13]. The use of aluminium oxide, which is was vapour deposited on cotton followed by vapour deposition of silane (FTOS), yields a superhydrophobic surface with contact angles of greater than 150º. This approach has the disadvantage of utilizing two vapour deposition systems which will be costly.

Silica sol doped with 0.5% (wt/wt) to 2% (wt/wt) of copper nanoparticles have been explored both for hydrophobic and anti-bacteria properties. Contact angles of 155º have been obtained on cotton. A mixed sol, comprising hexadecyl-modificed alkoxide and a crystalline suspension of titanium oxide, has yielded marked hydrophobic behaviour on cotton fabric. Some of the highest contact angles have been recorded through the use of iron oxide functionalized with a thin layer of fluoroalkyl silica. Contact angles as high as 172º have been shown with seemingly little dependence on the substrate type – this however was when the substrate was exposed to a magnetic field.