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ABSTRACT MING WANG. Replication of Screen Printing Fabric Via Ink-Jet Textile Printing

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ABSTRACT MING WANG. Replication of Screen Printing Fabric Via Ink-Jet Textile Printing ABSTRACT MING WANG. Replication of Screen Printing Fabric via Ink-jet Textile Printing. (Under the direction of Committee Chair Dr. Lisa Parrillo-Chapman). In textile industry, screen printing is a traditional printing technology that has been used for years. In the past few years, ink-jet digital printing has rapidly increased each year in the textile industry. Ink-jet digital printing is fast, flexible, relatively inexpensive for sample printing and can be applied quickly in response to consumer demand. For these reasons, replicating the relatively slow and inflexible screen printing process by using ink-jet digital printing is gaining interest in the fashion, apparel, and textile industry. The aim of this research is to replicate a screen-printed sample provided by a textile corporation via ink-jet digital printing, and from this case, to analyze the potential of ink-jet digital printing to replace traditional screen printing. Two stages involving three main objectives was established to achieve this target: In stage one, first, an optimal workflow was explored for replicating a screen-printed fabric using ink-jet textile digital printing, and second. In stage two, a visual assessment instrument and protocol was established to evaluate the acceptance of the replicated ink-jet printed fabric. Then, a visual assessment by 12 expert participants was conducted to determine if the digitally printed sample was a suitable substitute for screen printed sample, and to explore the potential for digital ink-jet printing to replace traditional screen printing. The instrument used in this pilot test was created and then presented to participants. Data gathered from the visual assessment was then analyzed and compared by using SPSS statistics software. © Copyright 2017 Ming Wang All Rights Reserved Replication of Screen Printing via Ink-jet Textile Printing by Ming Wang A thesis submitted to the Graduate Faculty of North Carolina State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science Textiles Raleigh, North Carolina 2017 APPROVED BY: _______________________________ _______________________________ Dr. Lisa Parrillo-Chapman Dr. Marguerite Moore Committee Chair _______________________________ Dr. Minyoung Suh DEDICATION This work is dedicated to my parents for their loving and financial support. I would like to thank doctoral students Xingyu Li, Yi Ding, Sajeesh Kulappurath, and Jihye Lim. To faculty of College of Textiles, Tri Vu and Jeffrey Krauss for their help. Jack Daniels, president of American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) and his assistantance helped greatly, as did Garry Atkinson and Malinda Keever, technical Associate of AATCC and their assistant. To all the experienced textile industry expert Steve Smith, David Clark, Mark Sawchak, Harold Mull and Kerry King are due my thanks for their knowledge and support. Thank you to all who participated in my assessment. My professors and committee members Dr. Marguerite Moore and Dr. Minyoung Suh have my deep gratitude for their assistance and teachings. And to my Committee Chair Dr. Lisa Parrillo- Chapman, I give my highest appreciation for all her teachings and support, without her guidance, this research would not have been possible. ii BIOGRAPHY Ming Wang was born July 15, 1992 in Tengzhou, Shandong, China. He is the only child of Xingyin Wang and Ying Li. Ming Wang finished his primary and high school education in Shandong Province. Ming Wang come to Shanghai, China alone in September 2011 and attended Donghua University. In August 2014, Ming Wang passed the interview, TOEFL and GRE test and then come to North Carolina State University via “3+X” program for two years and was accepted in to the College of Textiles. In August of 2014, Ming Wang began attending North Carolina State University to pursue a Master’s degree and enrolled in the Masters of Science program in Department of Textile Apparel, Technology and Management. Under the persuasion and encouragement of his instructor, Dr. Lisa Parrillo-Chapman, Ming Wang adapted to life in America and studied hard. While pursuing his Master’s degree, he was awarded a research assistantship with Dr. Lisa Parrillo-Chapman and manages the College’s Digital Design lab and aids in the research on ink-jet textile printing. iii TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF TABLES .................................................................................................................. vii LIST OF FIGURES ............................................................................................................... viii GLOSSARY ............................................................................................................................. x 1. CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION ..................................................................................... 1 1.1. Research Objectives ....................................................................................... 1 1.2. Significance of Research ................................................................................ 1 2. CHAPTER 2: LITERATURE REVIEW .......................................................................... 3 2.1. Digital Textile Printing................................................................................... 3 2.1.1. Introduction .................................................................................................... 3 2.1.2. Development Path .......................................................................................... 6 2.2. Screen printing ............................................................................................... 9 2.2.1. Contrastive Study ......................................................................................... 11 2.2.2. Advantages ................................................................................................... 11 2.2.3. Weaknesses .................................................................................................. 14 2.2.4. Comparison .................................................................................................. 15 2.3. Technological Aspects of Ink-jet Digital Printing ....................................... 16 2.3.1. Hardware ...................................................................................................... 17 2.3.2. CAD and Software ....................................................................................... 23 2.4. Colorants ...................................................................................................... 27 2.4.1. Reactive Dye Based Ink ............................................................................... 28 2.4.2. Acid Dye Based Ink ..................................................................................... 29 2.4.3. Dispersed Dye Based Ink ............................................................................. 29 2.4.4. Pigmented Ink .............................................................................................. 30 2.5. Pre-Treatment of Textile Fabric ................................................................... 30 2.5.1. Pre-Treatment of Cellulosic Fiber ................................................................ 31 2.5.2. Pre-Treatment of Protein fibers .................................................................... 31 2.6. Color Management for Textile ..................................................................... 32 2.6.1. Color Definition ........................................................................................... 32 2.6.2. Color Models ................................................................................................ 32 2.6.3. Color Management for Digital Ink-jet Printing............................................ 37 iv 2.6.4. Color Visual Assessment ............................................................................. 39 2.7. Summary ...................................................................................................... 43 3. CHAPTER 3: METHODOLOGY .................................................................................. 45 3.1. Research Purpose ......................................................................................... 45 3.2. Research Design ........................................................................................... 46 3.3. Research Objectives ..................................................................................... 47 3.4. Stage One: Development of Fabric Replication Workflow ......................... 48 3.4.1. Screen-printed Sample and Design File ....................................................... 49 3.4.2. Color Reduction ........................................................................................... 51 3.4.3. Color key ...................................................................................................... 52 3.4.4. Substrate and Ink Combination .................................................................... 53 3.4.5. Creation and Designation of CAD files ....................................................... 54 3.4.6. Conduct Ink-jet Textile Print Trials ............................................................. 60 3.5. Stage Two: Expert Visual Assessment and Protocol Development and Validation 77 3.5.2. Validation of Expert Visual Assessment and Protocol ................................ 87 3.5.3. Challenge .....................................................................................................
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