B8 WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 27, 2019 The Spirit of Amaro

COURTESY OF ANTICA TORRE DI VIA TORNABUONI Pistoia. Antica Torre’s barman Ranjula Wick- Italy’s iconic, TERRAZZA rama uses this exceptional amaro to enhance GALLIA BLACK Italy’s most popular cocktail, the Spritz, creat- bittersweet after- MANHATTAN ing the hotel’s signature “Benedictine Spritz” with two parts Rosolio to three parts Prosecco dinner drink is an and one part sparkling soda. 2 ounces bourbon whiskey Nocino, made from unripe walnuts, is a spe- excuse to linger 1 ounce Amaro Averna cialty of Emilia-Romagna, where it has been enjoyed since ancient Roman times. The wal- 2 dashes Angostura bitters nuts were historically gathered on June 24, the FRANCINE SEGAN Combine all ingredients with eve of the Feast of San Giovanni, when they ice in a mixing glass. Stir for were considered to be at their most fragrant and Italians love to linger at the table, slowly sa - 30 seconds, then strain into a healthful. It was thought that women were best voring each course from antipasto to primi cocktail glass. at the task. They would climb trees barefoot to and secondi. Dessert, dolci, is also enjoyed Recipe by barman Paolo Badolato pick the unripe nuts using only their hands, leisurely and is often served in three parts. so as not to bruise the nuts’ fragile skins. The First the sweet itself, which is accompanied evening of collection was called “La Notte delle by a dessert wine; then espresso; and finally Vergini Scalze,” or “evening of the barefoot an after-dinner drink. PALACE HOTEL virgins.” “Having an after-dinner drink to aid diges- CHINA MARTINI At Ristorante Ferramenta, in the south of tion, a digestivo, has always been a tradition the region, nocino is often served mixed with here in Italy,” noted Andrea Corsini, the direc- 1 1/3 ounce gin Galvanina chinotto, a lightly sparkling bit- tor of Emilia-Romagna’s tourism and com- tersweet soft drink made from the citrus pulp 1/3 ounce vermouth rosso, merce. “In recent years, there has been a resur- and extract of the myrtle-leaved orange tree. such as Martini & Rossi gence of the custom with restaurants replacing At the elegant Palace Hotel in Emilia-Romag- highly alcoholic spirits, like vodka and whisky, Sweet Vermouth na’s coastal Milano Maritima, “One of the most with lower alcohol amaro.” 1/3 ounce bitters frequently ordered is Amaro Montenegro, a Amaro, which means “bitter,” is the term blend of 40 botanicals, created in 1885,” ac- 1/3 ounce China Martini for a general category of bittersweet digestivo, cording to barman Erik Fontana. This aromatic which are generally made from various spices, Orange slice amaro, which is made with bitter and sweet herbs, fruits or nuts, and alcohol. Popular since Combine all the ingredients in a oranges, hints of oregano, marjoram, coriander the Middle Ages, these drinks were originally mixer and serve in a martini glass, seeds, and spices including cinnamon, cloves, created by monks as medicinal remedies. There garnished with an orange slice. and nutmeg, was later renamed in honor of are hundreds, if not thousands, of different Princess Elena of Montenegro on the occa- types of amari (the plural of amaro) in Italy, Recipe by barman Erik Fontana sion of her marriage to Italy’s Prince Vittorio with each region, city, and even village claim- Emanuele III. ing its own local specialty. “At the Palace Hotel, we serve it straight or “The importance of the amaro … dates back on the rocks, but don’t recommend mixing it to the age-old production of liquors in our in cocktails,” Fontana said. He does, however, country,” said Paolo Badolato, head barman make an amaro cocktail with another of Italy’s of Milan’s lovely Terrazza Gallia bar. “In ancient favorites, China Martini (its name and flavors times, they represented an offer of convivial- come from the bark of China Calissaia, or Cin- ity by a host towards guests. This ancient Ital- chona root), which won him fourth place in an

ian tradition is linked to our current desire to RIMINI DI HOTEL GRAND OF COURTESY international cocktail competition. show hospitality.” (One of Badolato’s favorite Two other popular amari in Italy are Vecchio amaro cocktails is a version of the Manhat- Amaro del Capo, a spirit from Calabria made tan, but with Italian amaro, called the Black with 29 ingredients, including orange blossom, (Above) The ian restaurants, there is almost no lunch or din- Manhattan.) peppermint, and licorice; and Amaro Averna, leisurely after- ner where an amaro is not suggested as the way created by Benedictine monks in Sicily who dinner drink is an to end a marvelous meal. It is both medicinal, as Regional Specialties passed on their special recipe to the Averna age-old Italian an extraordinary aid to digestion, and a delight- One of the delights of traveling through Italy is family in 1868. It is made with herbs, roots, tradition. ful way to extend the pleasure of the meal, to be discovering each region’s specialty amaros. In and natural spices including myrtle, juniper (Left) Three relished while chatting with friends.” Florence’s stunning hotel Antica Torre di Via berries, rosemary, and sage, combined with of Italy’s most Tornabuoni, they serve an absolutely unique fruit including pomegranates, and the essential popular Amari. Francine Segan, food historian and expert on and extraordinary amaro called Rosolio, oils of bitter oranges and lemons. Italian cuisine, is a James Beard-nominated au- made with a secret recipe including lemons Barbara Minichiello, head bartender of the thor of six cookbooks, including “Pasta Modern: and bitter oranges, by the historic Monastery historic five-star Grand Hotel di Rimini, waxes New & Inspired Recipes from Italy” and “Dolci: of Benedictine monks of the Tuscan town of poetic on Italy’s after-dinner tradition: “In Ital- Italy’s Sweets.”

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