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Home , Costa Brava, El Bulli, Figueres, Girona, Lloret de Mar, Palafrugell

XXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX At a glance View across historic , towards the 11th-century Tower. Discover secluded beaches Left: beach, and seductive hotels Glimpses of Girona Sample the best of the area’s famous cuisine Many people fly into Girona and See historic sites and get drive straight out, which is a mistake. Instead, do as the Spaniards do a dose of surrealism and take a weekend break here. You won’t be disappointed. Girona’s Roman founders were the first to pace its city walls. To retrace their footsteps, walk south along the wall’s ramparts, starting at Pont de Sant Agusti, a medieval stone bridge on the Onyar river, then follow the Passeig de la Muralla through Girona’s nature gardens to the 11th-century Charlemagne Tower (girona.cat/turisme) for grandstand city views. Sublime religious architecture abounds in the , not least the remarkable Parish of Sant Romà (lloretdemar.org; free) in the mostly charmless resort of . But the baroque (catedraldegirona.org; free) outshines Hidden them all. Its 23-metre wide Gothic nave is the second widest in the world – outstripped only by St Peter’s Basilica in Rome. Visit on weekend mornings when it booms with Gregorian chanting. Costa Like all great Mediterranean squares, Plaça de la Independencia bustles with smooching young couples and ranks of old men waiting for dinner or death (or both). Pull up a seat for people-watching Brava at Lizarran (No 14; lizarran.es) for its tasty Escape the package- Gironan-style tapa of bacalla (salt cod; around £4 a plate) with Romesco sauce. holiday hordes with these The atmospheric market on the secret slices of the Spanish Rambla de la Llibertat dates from the 12th century. Pick up flowers and fruits coast, says Sally Howard from outdoor stalls, or clothing and objects d’art from bordering boutiques.

amed for its wild coastline, the the . And despite the closure from , criss-crossing from coastal Go snorkling in the bay of and view the natural beauty of the Costa Brava of the famous restaurant – named big-hitters, such as , Empiriabrava, and Secret beaches Nlures two million visitors a year the world’s best five times in the annual Roses, to historical towns and villages, like to this stretch of coast north of Barcelona. indutry awards – the region’s cuisine gothic-style and the bayside medieval As a rule of thumb, southerly beaches that are a sandy side for sunbathers and a diving board What sets the Costa Brava apart from the continues to shine. You can enjoy its mix town of Begur. You can conclude your tour backed by towns, such as Tossa, Roses, Platja off the rocks into the water for swimmers. lower-lying Spanish provinces is the of powerful Spanish flavours and French in the characterful north of the Costa Brava d’Aro and L’Escala, will be rammed from late Take Sant Feliu de Guixols, the road that extreme diversity of its natural landscape: culinary finesse everywhere, from humble at bustling , the town made famous June to August. But you needn’t look far for winds north past Tossa de Mar, and after 15km from lofty mountains to wildlife-rich fishing cafés to fine-dining restaurants. by its flamboyant son, Salvador Dalí. a stretch of coast to almost call your own. you’ll find intimate coves reached via stone wetlands, unpeopled rocky coves to Thrown into this seductive mix are Dalí is not alone among the Costa Brava’s For a family-friendly spot to lay your towel walkways. Any tiny turnout or parking spot sweeping, golden-sand beaches – all in ancient walled villages, glorious cathedral eccentrics. Indeed, one local saying declares that’s within reach of beach cafés, but without will lead you to a quiet beach. a tightly knit area. cities and a good serving of surrealism. that: ‘In the mountains of the Costa Brava, the crowds, walk north from Platja d’Aro. Here Best of all are the spectacular beaches and Despite its name – Costa Brava roughly a mad wind blows clean through the ears’. you will find small sandy beaches, particularly coves along the Cami de Ronda coastal path translates as ‘rugged coast’ – the region Where to start And it may well be that the almost-British cliff-backed, golden-sanded Cala Belladona, (part of the GR 92; ow.ly/KfMWo). You’ll need supplies a healthy dose of life’s refined You’ll need a car to get about the region. eccentricity will be the aspect of the Costa far from the main stretch. For snorkelling, walking shoes to find such off-the-beaten- pleasures. Its hotels knock spots off the The best way to get to know the Costa Brava Brava that stays with you, long after the head to the smaller rocky beaches east of track beauties as El Golfet, with its pink rocks 1960s blocks that blight its southerly rival, is to take a leisurely week to drive north taste of its delicious cuisine has faded. Girona, such as the bay of Tamariu. This has and towering pines. >>

26 WHICH? TRAVEL MAY 2015 which.co.uk Snorkelling sights in MAY 2015 WHICH? TRAVEL 27 the Bay of Tamariu COSTA BRAVA DESTINATIONS

Catalan haute cuisine Travel essentials

It would be criminal to leave the Costa Brava For contemporary without HOTEL without sampling its renowned haute cuisine. the Michelin prices, try cosy Sa Rascassa, set Ferran Adrià’s El Bulli restaurant (named the back from the pebbled cove of world’s best a record five times) closed in 2011, (hostalsarascassa.com; mains around £13). Average Average but for a meal in the same spirit, try the three Don’t miss the white beans with clams. Or, hotel room return airfare Michelin-starred with a tasting menu at a remarkable £41 per a b (cellercanroca.com; mains around £30) outside head, try Pa i Raïm (pairaim.com; mains €66 £198 Girona. Its buttery pig’s trotters with sea slugs around £10). This restaurant in an (trust us) elevate slimy molluscs to the sublime. villa in is hotly tipped for a Michelin Carme Ruscadella also has three Michelin star, courtesy of delicate dishes, such as hake stars and it’s well worth the trip to her tiny with peas and beads of cava jelly. c nine-table Restaurant in the coastal If you are looking for something more Average daily max temp (°C) town of Sant Pol de Mar (ruscalleda.com; down-to-earth, Pizzeria Delfin at Playa d’Aro 28 28 tasting menu only, around £114). She reworks turns out crisp, generously topped pizza 25 25 Costa Bravan produce in dishes like squid wheels (Catalan toppings, plus seafood with tomato, spleen, pepper and ink; and a speciality) just a hop-step from the beach 21 upside-down coca (Catalan celebratory cake) at Playa d’Aro (00 34 65131 0009, mains 20 with crisp mackerel, tomato and almonds. around £5). The secluded and reasonably priced 17 16 A Dalí’-inspired door in Cadaques Sa Rascassa restaurant in Aiguafreda 15 13 13 13 The medieval The fairytale hilltop castle town of of Castell d’Empordà A dally with Dalí Begur Beyond the Jun The master of surrealism, Salvador Dalí, high-rise hotels Jan Feb Mar Apr May July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec grew up in the Costa Brava, and you can see some of his most daring and Be wary of Costa Brava package deals daftest works here. Start at the Dalí if you want to avoid ersatz resort hotels SCAM WATCH Theatre and Museum (salvador-dali.org; in need of a spruce-up. Even the While not as big a problem as in Barcelona, entry £8) in his birth town of Figueres, popular beachside resorts have some the Costa Brava’s resorts, especially with its batty Dalí-designed exterior beauties if you go indie. Among the best Tossa de Mar and Lloret de Mar in high and rooms of optical illusions. Or try in the budget bracket is smart boutique season, are blighted by pickpockets and street muggers. Conceal money and avoid his weird and wonderful coastal house Hotel Diana (hotelesdante.com) in Tossa toting a map or wearing shorts, which mark museum, Salvador Dalí House – de Mar. It’s set in a white-washed Art you out as a tourist. (salvador-dali.org; entry £8), Deco building with breakfast (served in near Cadaqués, for its garden of a Moorish tiled courtyard), a plant-trailed Dial 112 for an emergency police line; curiosities including a prone Gulliver terrace and 360-degree sea views. or 902 102 112 for the general police and a pastiche of the Alhambra palace. MONEY SAVER Rooms with plaza views force line. And finally, see his final resting place at at a bargain £41 are just as seductive as Momondo.com on searchs from price average Gala Dalí Castle in Púbol (salvador-dali. those with sea views, which start at £72. MORE INFO org; £6), where Dalí-esque If you want a family-friendly resort, the en.costabrava.org whimsies include a glass Hotel Mediterreneo Park (en.hotels coffee table with a stuffed mediterraneo.com; doubles from £49) Port Lligat horse visible in the offers plenty of bang for your buck, just l Cadaqués l Figueres l l floor below. a short walk from the beaches at Roses. Roses This four-star has indoor and outdoor Suite Pere Margarit pools, mini-golf and a well-run kids club, in Castell d’Empordà COSTA BRAVA plus slick, balconied doubles and suites.

For romance, look inland to the bevy l Púbol Girona MONEY SAVER You can buy of new convent and Catalan farmhouse l l Average Daily Max Temperature Jan to Dec: Girona, based on Weather2Travel.com on based Girona, Dec: to Jan Temperature Max Daily Average a combined ticket for all restorations. The best include 15th- Badia de Tamariu l three sights, saving about century farmhouse Can Bassa in

£3, but only in person Madremanya (canbassa.com; doubles Platja d’Aro l from the Theatre and from £81), and Castell d’Empordà

Museum, so go there first. (hotelcastellemporda.com; from £115 l Tossa de Mar To l Lloret de Mar for a tower double) – a fairytale hilltop Barcelona castle in the heart of the green Empordà MEDITERRANEAN Sculpture by Salvador l Sant Pau SEA average price from searches on Trivago.co.uk Fe bruary 2014 to January 2015. b: a: February 2014 to January 2015 c: Dalí in his home region with olive groves at its feet. PHOTOGRAPHY: 4 CORNERS, ALAMY, ROBERT HARDING >> town of Figueres which.co.uk MAY 2015 WHICH? TRAVEL 29