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rave (like a mes T y Ti a nd u S , cheese and home-

(atasteofspain.com; flaming concoction — a flaming concoction JUNE 2017 . Then, back at their farmhouse, cremat charcuterie grown cherries (Carrer de la Bassa 20; £18pp). from oliventallo.com; won’tl You want to leave Catalan cuisine behind — and you won’t have to if you take a lesson with local chef Pere and his wife Mariona. You’ll start at rubbing market, lively Palafrugell’s grannies roly-poly with shoulders and hipster chefs as you choose the and cuttlefish calamari, freshest prawns you’ll throw it all into fideuà noodly paella), and make custardy crema catalana £134pp). from l The laid-back seaside town of Calella de Palafrugell was made for Pastel-coloured lazing. end-of-day beaches brilliant villas, 19th-century and excellent bars and cafes give it the Brighton-on-Med. wicker of a Bag feel armchair overlooking the bay at Can Gelpí restaurant (Carrer de les Voltes 11; 00 34 972 614572) and order the local tipple, of coffee, rum and cognac theatrically ladled into a terracotta dish your at people). two minimum (£8pp, table how the balmy sea air gives the red wines their warm, spicy character at Castillo Peralada winery — it has tastings, tours and a museum in a 14th-century (perelada.com; castle from £8.70; book ahead). l Gorgeous beaches are ten a penny around this stretch of the coast, but the crescent bay of Llafranc is one of the loveliest. pines With arabesquing tall, lacing the promenade, this is the place to sit back with a cool Voll Damm (the Order Catalan beer). hoppy, deliciously steaming of bowl piled-high a with one mussels La seafront Sirena at (Paseo Cipsela 31; 00 34 972 301138; mains about £17). medieval geranium-filled the l In village of Ventalló, the Serra Sala amazing making been have family aromatic oil from the local olives for centuries, and have become go-to suppliers for some of the region’s Get restaurants. world-famous join track: inside delicious the charming Fina Sala and her daughter on their tours of the olive groves and mill — then dig in to tastings with

instant escapes

GOURMET BRAVA COSTA

Writer’s tip Not hands-on Not enough? Try the fish- fabulous cooking classes at Espai del Peix Peix del Espai at (espaidelpeix.org; from £20), next door to the Museum Fish I

beach at Calella de Palafrugell; below, mussels are a stapleseafood in these parts; of Palamós The twilight zone: twilight zone: The boats on the the along walking the at promenade harbour town

. Over the river o & d ee S Wander around Girona’s Girona’s around l Wander head out early on a trawler to medieval Old and Town you’ll find its lanes cobbled higgledy-piggledy brimming with foodie treats, from where shops to artisan chocolatiers you can sample superb local wines direct from the barrel Onyar, check out the fantastic Mercat del Lleó (Plaça Calvet i Rubalcaba) — the market has spectacular displays of sparkling fish, plump olives and veg. Mediterranean rainbow-coloured l Plates of grilled fresh fish, the clear, emerald sea so close you’ll almost get your toes wet, fishing boats bobbing on the water — this is Tamariu, an unspoilt, bay horseshoe pretty-as-a-picture with a string of restaurants behind the beach. Head to Es Dofí at the end of the promenade for hake or the somsos fried whitebait-like crispy, (Passeig del Mar 22; 00 34 972 £11). about mains 620043; l The lively harbour town of Palamós is famous for its fat, succulent prawns. You’ll appreciate them all the more after an excellent Fish Museum trip. You’ll watch them being caught, then see market the at auctioned later them museudelapesca. s/n; Pesquer (Moll lunch). including £75pp, from trips org; l Superb wines have been produced in the Empordà region, at the Costa’s were Romans the since end, northerly around. Vineyards line lush valleys or descend to the gleaming Med. Find out ✂ GUIDE CUT-OUT-AND-GO Costa Brava

JUNE 2017 l rave

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instant escapes 132 132 No longer chips with everything, this corner Spainof is a foodie paradise

If the Costa Brava still conjures up images eggs, of chips and lager louts, then think again. sizzling From sardines sophisticated on the to beach dining amid the lush, wine-growing plains the of Empordà,this region — at a fraction food Spain’s somehas most of exceptional the of price Fiegel Eddi By Hold the ketchup! in or Italy. pay France you’d Gourmet ✂ instant escapes

CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I GOURMET COSTA BRAVA

Eat DRINK l Haute ice cream l Star sundowners Rocambolesc (Ice cream about £3) Hotel Llafranch Because: If you can’t get in to the Because: A favourite of Sophia Loren, restaurant El Celler de Can Roca, the top Elizabeth Taylor and Rock Hudson back table Rocas’ Girona ice-cream parlour is Heart set on a in the ’50s, the terrace bar has great sea the next best thing. The vanilla with table at El Celler views. Travel’s tip: Enjoy the sunset caramelised apple and shortbread de Can Roca with a tinto de verano (red wine and (cellercanroca. is worth the trip alone. Travel’s tip: com), one of the lemonade). Passeig Cypsela 16, The beautiful bars of chocolate make world’s best Llafranc; hllafranch.com. super-stylish presents. Carrer de Santa restaurants? Clara 50, Girona; rocambolesc.com. You’ll need to l Bargain local book at least 11 months ahead CafE dell’Arte l The bargain blow-out — though your Because: This neighbourhood bar in Restaurant Vall-llObrega hotel concierge coastal L’Escala has excellent Catalan might get lucky (Three-course menus from £9) with a last-minute wines and great-value tapas amid Because: You’ll have some of the cancellation red-velvet drapes, Dansette record best-value, heartiest food around players, vintage radios and ’50s at this unassuming place hidden in bric-a-brac. Travel’s tip: The house a sleepy village. Travel’s tip: Order the red Synera is beautifully full-bodied stews and garlicky alioli mayonnaise — and only costs £2 a glass. Carrer with roast chicken. Raval de Mar 8, Calvari 1, L’Escala. Vall-llobrega; 00 34 972 602044, restaurantvall-llobrega.com. l The deli with prezzies Merci French Patisserie & Deli l Great-value seafood Because: This smart deli in Old Town L’Hort del Rector (Mains pretty Palafrugell does tantalising gâteaux, walk about £13) Allow time to but also sells jamón serrano, biscuits Because: Beamed ceilings, lace explore the and chocolate. Travel’s tip: Join locals curtains and shelves crammed medieval walled people-watching over croissants at village of Monells, with books make this cod-focused just over the breakfast. Plaça Nova 7, Palafrugell. restaurant feel like the home of bridge from L’Hort someone’s eccentric uncle. Travel’s del Rector tip: Of the 18 main-course cod dishes, Stay balconies start at £96, but it’s only £5 High costa living: overlooking the rolling Empordà plains. from Belfast, Bristol, Liverpool, our pick is the one with fat, juicy ASK THE l The city bolthole extra for a sea view. Travel’s tip: Some clockwise from top Travel’s tip: For romance, ask for a room Gatwick, Luton, Southend and left, great views prawns. Carrer de l’Església 2, Monells; LOCAL AC Hotel Palau de Bellavista of the nearby restaurants close early. To from the AC Hotel in the castle. Otherwise, the Garden Newcastle from £20 return. Monarch 00 34 972 630396, hortdelrector.com. Costa Brava native Laura (Doubles from £51, room only) eat later, dine in the hotel or in Llafranc. Palau de Bellavista; Suites in the modern extension are (monarch.co.uk) flies to Barcelona from Masramon is a sommelier Because: It’s a great base for exploring Passeig del Mar 2, Tamariu; 00 34 972 pool at Luxe Calella brilliant for families. La Bisbal; 00 34 Birmingham, Gatwick, Leeds Bradford specialising in wines from apartments; beach l The best of Brava the Empordà region Girona — stylish, comfortable and good 620031, tamariu.com. dining at Hostal Sa 972 646254, hotelcastellemporda.com. and Manchester from £58 return. Restaurant Iberic (Mains value. Travel’s tip: It’s at the top of a steep Rascassa; stylish Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies from about £15) hill above the Old Town — work off that l The restaurant with rooms simplicity at Hotel l The glamorous holiday house Stansted to Girona from £59 return. Because: It’s surely the best restaurant You won’t find tourists at lunch or cab it. Pujada Polvorins 1, Girona; Hostal Sa Rascassa (Doubles Tamariu; jamón Charming Villas Catalonia

I C serrano, a local in the area — order Catalan dishes such Vinomi (Passeig de Sant 00 34 872 080670, marriott.com. from £95, B&B) speciality Because: Charming Villas Catalonia GO PACKAGED RA PH as suquet de mar (a saffron-infused Joan Bosco 59-61; four-course menu G Because: Its five rooms are stylishly has a collection of plush villas and Kirker (020 7593 2283, kirkerholidays. O T

fish stew) and exceptional meat dishes. £30), a restaurant in a wine shop in l The chic beachside hotel AR simple and the Sa Rascassa restaurant apartments throughout the region, com) can tailor-make a three-night self-

Travel’s tip: Book a week ahead. Come Girona (you choose your wine from the Hostal Spa EmpUries C A D — one of the best in the region — is just including the Apartment Luxe Calella drive, including a four-star hotel, car and hungry as portions are generous. shop). There are lots of terrace cafes in (Doubles from £78, room only) downstairs. You’re also in striking Fill the (from £1,738 a week, ie, £248 a night, flights from £588pp, B&B. Inntravel

DENHE fridge Carrer de Valls 11, Ullastret; 00 34 972 Girona’s Old Town, but La Simfonia Because: On Empúries’s beach, this AI distance of the Costa’s best beaches Staying by the sea, sleeping 6), less than 10 minutes’ (01653 6177001, inntravel.co.uk) has a Takeaway M : 757108, restaurantiberic.com. tip (Plaça de l’Oli 6) has a great wine list, smart hotel has a sleek spa and a superb and medieval villages. Travel’s tip: you’ll be in the walk from Llafranc and Calella de seven-night self-guided walking trip MAP mood for seafood.

Just down the from £4 a glass. The sweet Garnatxa fish restaurant. Travel’s tip: The ‘spa’ CK Dining in the restaurant? Leave room for Palafrugell. Travel’s tip: Ask the owners from £1,028pp, half board, with flights. O There’s an l The Michelin star street from La d’Empordà is good with blue cheese, rooms are more spacious — but rooms ST the divine ‘chocolate stones’ pudding. to arrange anything from personal Simfonia, the excellent fresh fish R PE

Restaurant Casamar (Mains foie gras or desserts. I love the Motel in the old building have the best sea U Cala d’Aiguafreda 3, Begur; 00 34 972 chefs and sommeliers to cookery GET AROUND Local Market deli counter at the Mercadona about £20) Restaurant in Hotel Empordà (Ave de views and they’re cheaper. Platja de S NG, 622845, hostalsarascassa.com. classes and wine-tastings. 00 34 972 Sixt (0844 499 3399, sixt.co.uk) has car

(localmarket.cat) I has wonderful D supermarket in

Because: This is Michelin-starred food Salvador Dalí Domènech 170; Portitxol s/n, L’Escala; 00 34 972 AR 590389, charmingvillas.net. hire from £111 a week from Barcelona Palafrugell, about

charcuterie and H T at a fraction of the price you’d pay back hotelemporda.com). You don’t have to 770207, hostalempuries.com. l The fairy-tale castle five minutes’ drive airport. Or try Avis (avis.co.uk). Buses

artisan beers, R BE home and comes with a stunning view and wine- be a guest to enjoy its breakfast buffet Castell d’EmpordA (Doubles from Apartment Get me there run from Barcelona airport to various of Llafranc bay. Travel’s tip: Hungry? tasting evenings (£11). I love the fried eggs with artisan l The simple seaview hotel from £103, B&B) Luxe Calella GO INDEPENDENT towns (eg, Barcelona-Palamós £16 Don’t be tempted by the ‘Pica Pica’ every Thursday breads and the local Catalan goat’s Hotel Tamariu (Doubles Because: Rooms are a glamorous mix There are more flights to Barcelona, but one way; compras.moventis.es). tasting menu (£42) — you’ll be peckish at 7pm (£13) cheese, served with honey. from £95, B&B) of Indian silks, Moroccan floor tiles, Far Girona gets you nearer the Costa Brava an hour later. Carrer del Nero 3, Llafranc; Because: You’re metres away from the Eastern antiques and comfy beds — and and saves you a couple of hours’ drive. FURTHER INFORMATION

00 34 972 300104, hotelcasamar.net. beach on an unspoilt bay. Rooms with RO GETTY, PHOTOGRAPHS: you’re in a 14th-century castle EasyJet (easyjet.com ) flies to Barcelona See costabrava.org or spain.info.

134 Sunday Times Travel JUNE 2017 JUNE 2017 Sunday Times Travel 135