Gourmet Costa Brava
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✂ instant escapes CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I GOURMET COSTA BRAVA See & DO The twilight zone: how the balmy sea air gives the boats on the l Wander around Girona’s beach at Calella de red wines their warm, spicy character medieval Old Town and you’ll find its Palafrugell; below, at Castillo Peralada winery — it has higgledy-piggledy cobbled lanes mussels are a tastings, tours and a museum in a brimming with foodie treats, from seafood staple 14th-century castle (perelada.com; in these parts; artisan chocolatiers to shops where walking along the from £8.70; book ahead). you can sample superb local wines promenade at the direct from the barrel. Over the river harbour town l Gorgeous beaches are ten a penny of Palamós Onyar, check out the fantastic Mercat around this stretch of the coast, but the del Lleó (Plaça Calvet i Rubalcaba) crescent bay of Llafranc is one of the — the market has spectacular displays loveliest. With tall, arabesquing pines of sparkling fish, plump olives and lacing the promenade, this is the place rainbow-coloured Mediterranean veg. to sit back with a cool Voll Damm (the deliciously hoppy, Catalan beer). Order l Plates of grilled fresh fish, the clear, one with a piled-high bowl of steaming emerald sea so close you’ll almost get mussels at seafront La Sirena (Paseo your toes wet, fishing boats bobbing on Cipsela 31; 00 34 972 301138; mains the water — this is Tamariu, an unspoilt, about £17). pretty-as-a-picture horseshoe bay with a string of restaurants behind l In the geranium-filled medieval the beach. Head to Es Dofí at the end village of Ventalló, the Serra Sala of the promenade for hake or the family have been making amazing crispy, whitebait-like fried somsos aromatic oil from the local olives for (Passeig del Mar 22; 00 34 972 centuries, and have become go-to 620043; mains about £11). suppliers for some of the region’s world-famous restaurants. Get l The lively harbour town of Palamós the delicious inside track: join is famous for its fat, succulent prawns. charming Fina Sala and her daughter You’ll appreciate them all the more on their tours of the olive groves after an excellent Fish Museum trip. WRITER’S and mill — then dig in to tastings TIP You’ll head out early on a trawler to Not hands-on with charcuterie, cheese and home- watch them being caught, then see enough? Try the grown cherries (Carrer de la Bassa 20; them auctioned later at the market fabulous fish- oliventallo.com; from £18pp). cooking classes (Moll Pesquer s/n; museudelapesca. at Espai del Peix org; trips from £75pp, including lunch). (espaidelpeix.org; l You won’t want to leave Catalan from £20), next cuisine behind — and you won’t have to l Superb wines have been produced door to the if you take a lesson with local chef Pere Fish Museum instant in the Empordà region, at the Costa’s and his wife Mariona. You’ll start at northerly end, since the Romans were Palafrugell’s lively market, rubbing escapes around. Vineyards line lush valleys or shoulders with roly-poly grannies descend to the gleaming Med. Find out and hipster chefs as you choose the freshest calamari, cuttlefish and prawns. Then, back at their farmhouse, you’ll throw it all into fideuà (like a noodly paella), and make custardy crema catalana (atasteofspain.com; Gourmet Costa Brava from £134pp). No longer chips with everything, this corner of Spain is a foodie paradise l The laid-back seaside town of Calella de Palafrugell was made for end-of-day lazing. Pastel-coloured If the Costa Brava still conjures up images of eggs, chips and lager louts, 19th-century villas, brilliant beaches then think again. From sizzling sardines on the beach to sophisticated and excellent bars and cafes give it the feel of Brighton-on-Med. Bag a wicker dining amid the lush, wine-growing plains of the Empordà, this region armchair overlooking the bay at Can has some of Spain’s most exceptional food — at a fraction of the price Gelpí restaurant (Carrer de les Voltes 11; you’d pay in France or Italy. Hold the ketchup! By Eddi Fiegel 00 34 972 614572) and order the local tipple, cremat — a flaming concoction of coffee, rum and cognac theatrically ladled into a terracotta dish at your table (£8pp, minimum two people).> 132 SUNDAY TImes TraveL JUNE 2017 JUNE 2017 SUNDAY TImes TraveL 133 ✂ instant escapes CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I GOURMET COSTA BRAVA Eat DRINK l Haute ice cream l Star sundowners ROCAmbOlesc (Ice cream about £3) HOtel LLAFRAnch Because: If you can’t get in to the Because: A favourite of Sophia Loren, restaurant El Celler de Can Roca, the TOP Elizabeth Taylor and Rock Hudson back TABLE Rocas’ Girona ice-cream parlour is Heart set on a in the ’50s, the terrace bar has great sea the next best thing. The vanilla with table at El Celler views. Travel’s tip: Enjoy the sunset caramelised apple and shortbread de Can Roca with a tinto de verano (red wine and (cellercanroca. is worth the trip alone. Travel’s tip: com), one of the lemonade). Passeig Cypsela 16, The beautiful bars of chocolate make world’s best Llafranc; hllafranch.com. super-stylish presents. Carrer de Santa restaurants? Clara 50, Girona; rocambolesc.com. You’ll need to l Bargain local book at least 11 months ahead CAFE dell’ARTE l The bargain blow-out — though your Because: This neighbourhood bar in RestAURAnt VAll-llObRegA hotel concierge coastal L’Escala has excellent Catalan might get lucky (Three-course menus from £9) with a last-minute wines and great-value tapas amid Because: You’ll have some of the cancellation red-velvet drapes, Dansette record best-value, heartiest food around players, vintage radios and ’50s at this unassuming place hidden in bric-a-brac. Travel’s tip: The house a sleepy village. Travel’s tip: Order the red Synera is beautifully full-bodied stews and garlicky alioli mayonnaise — and only costs £2 a glass. Carrer with roast chicken. Raval de Mar 8, Calvari 1, L’Escala. Vall-llobrega; 00 34 972 602044, restaurantvall-llobrega.com. l The deli with prezzies MERCI FRench PATIsseRIE & DelI l Great-value seafood Because: This smart deli in Old Town L’HORT del RectOR (Mains PRETTY Palafrugell does tantalising gâteaux, WALK about £13) Allow time to but also sells jamón serrano, biscuits Because: Beamed ceilings, lace explore the and chocolate. Travel’s tip: Join locals curtains and shelves crammed medieval walled people-watching over croissants at village of Monells, with books make this cod-focused just over the breakfast. Plaça Nova 7, Palafrugell. restaurant feel like the home of bridge from L’Hort someone’s eccentric uncle. Travel’s del Rector tip: Of the 18 main-course cod dishes, StaY balconies start at £96, but it’s only £5 High costa living: overlooking the rolling Empordà plains. from Belfast, Bristol, Liverpool, our pick is the one with fat, juicy ASK THE l The city bolthole extra for a sea view. Travel’s tip: Some clockwise from top Travel’s tip: For romance, ask for a room Gatwick, Luton, Southend and left, great views prawns. Carrer de l’Església 2, Monells; LOCAL AC HOtel PALAU de BellAVIstA of the nearby restaurants close early. To from the AC Hotel in the castle. Otherwise, the Garden Newcastle from £20 return. Monarch 00 34 972 630396, hortdelrector.com. Costa Brava native Laura (Doubles from £51, room only) eat later, dine in the hotel or in Llafranc. Palau de Bellavista; Suites in the modern extension are (monarch.co.uk) flies to Barcelona from Masramon is a sommelier Because: It’s a great base for exploring Passeig del Mar 2, Tamariu; 00 34 972 pool at Luxe Calella brilliant for families. La Bisbal; 00 34 Birmingham, Gatwick, Leeds Bradford specialising in wines from apartments; beach l The best of Brava the Empordà region Girona — stylish, comfortable and good 620031, tamariu.com. dining at Hostal Sa 972 646254, hotelcastellemporda.com. and Manchester from £58 return. RestAURAnt IbeRIC (Mains value. Travel’s tip: It’s at the top of a steep Rascassa; stylish Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies from about £15) hill above the Old Town — work off that l The restaurant with rooms simplicity at Hotel l The glamorous holiday house Stansted to Girona from £59 return. Because: It’s surely the best restaurant You won’t find tourists at lunch or cab it. Pujada Polvorins 1, Girona; HOstAL SA RAscAssA (Doubles Tamariu; jamón CHARMING VIllAS CATALONIA C I serrano, a local in the area — order Catalan dishes such Vinomi (Passeig de Sant 00 34 872 080670, marriott.com. PH from £95, B&B) speciality Because: Charming Villas Catalonia GO PACKAGED RA as suquet de mar (a saffron-infused Joan Bosco 59-61; four-course menu G Because: Its five rooms are stylishly has a collection of plush villas and Kirker (020 7593 2283, kirkerholidays. O T fish stew) and exceptional meat dishes. £30), a restaurant in a wine shop in l The chic beachside hotel AR simple and the Sa Rascassa restaurant apartments throughout the region, com) can tailor-make a three-night self- D C D Travel’s tip: Book a week ahead. Come Girona (you choose your wine from the HOstAL SPA EmpURIes A — one of the best in the region — is just including the Apartment Luxe Calella drive, including a four-star hotel, car and hungry as portions are generous. shop). There are lots of terrace cafes in (Doubles from £78, room only) downstairs.