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2012 A guide to its , regions and styles Produced in association with Austrian Marketing Board

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adore them, wine writers enthuse about them. What is it about Austrian wines that captures the imagination, and hearts, of those who make their living in wine? And when will these wines gain a higher profile beyond their borders? Certainly, the country’s Grüner Veltliners have become a popular choiceS among wine lovers looking for an alternative to the usual Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs, and have become almost easy to find on restaurant lists and supermarket shelves. But what of the myriad other white, red and sweet styles? These are still unfamiliar territory for probably a fair proportion of readers, but we urge you to read more about them in this guide – and then to go out and try them. These are food-friendly wines with cool-climate elegance, bags of character, and a real sense of place. Enjoy! Amy Wislocki, Managing Editor

Contents 2 What’s new in Austria Darrel Joseph rounds up all the latest news from the industry 4 Winning over the world Austrian winemakers have had their share of difficult times. Amy Wislocki charts the country’s incredible journey to international acclaim 6 Austria’s new age Appellations are not popular everywhere, but Austrian winemakers are embracing their new DACs. Sarah Jane Evans MW investigates 12 National treasure Traditional Ausbruch is on the wane but many producers are making their own style of Austria’s favourite sweet wine, says Stephen Brook 14 White knights Join Darrel Joseph to discover the best Austrian whites on offer outside of the DACs 16 Shining through Is it time for Austrian reds to step into the limelight? Darrel Joseph lines up some non-DAC contenders 18 Expert’s choice Top Jan Konetzki sets out his personal favourites from Austria’s cellar 20 A fresh approach The versatility of Austrian wine makes it a perfect match for Asian cuisine, says Ch’ng Poh Tiong 24 Vibrant It’s always a good time to visit Austria’s bustling capital city. Jason Turner provides the lowdown

Highlighted area Cover photograph: Gabriele Croppi/SIME/4Corners Images. Surveying the landscape near the town of Rust in Burgenland

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2011: winemakers report excellent What’s new in Austria quality and generous crop The latest news from the Austrian wine industry, compiled by Darrel Joseph Following two challenging, low-yield years, Austria’s 2011 is stirring up great fervour – not only for its fine-quality crop, but also for its large quantity. From Wachau to Neusiedlersee to , 2011 delivered a vintage that has, despite some isolated but difficult weather conditions (sporadic frost, hail and dryness) proven excellent overall. Thanks to a hot, late summer that flowed into a long, sunny autumn, there were plenty of healthy, fully ripened grapes on the vines. Altogether, approximately 2.8 million hectolitres of wine was extracted from Austria’s last year, up Revamped website from 1.7m hl in 2010 and 2.3m hl in 2009. ‘In Wachau, the 2011s are showing brings Austrian wine opulent, round and juicy fruit, with lots of Grapes for sweet wines, especially in concentration,’ said Emmerich H Knoll, a vineyards close to Lake Neusiedl – the to consumers producer of fine, dry Grüner Veltliner and Neusiedlersee – had a tougher time, The Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB) has from terraced, single vineyards. however. The long, dry autumn did not relaunched its website, www.austrianwine.com, Red wines fared particularly well thanks allow much botrytis, or , to which is now the world’s most comprehensive to the ideal autumn weather. ‘2011 is one develop, which means that Beerenauslese information base on Austrian wine. of the best red , with ripe tannins (BA) and Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) Built around the AWMB’s theme, ‘Taste Culture’, and more structure,’ said winemaker wines will be in limited supply. and the Austrian wine logo, which replicates the Gerhard Markowitsch from Carnuntum, ‘Winemakers needed strong nerves, red-and-white national flag emblem featured on all who specialises in Zweigelt and Pinot and those who waited were able to pick quality Austrian wine bottles, the website provides Noir, among other red varieties. ‘From the good grapes into 2012,’ said winemaker consumers and professionals alike with the finer end of August until well into September, it Willi Opitz. ‘We managed to get some points on virtually everything there is to know about was sunny and warm, and the grapes excellent Gewürztraminer and Muskat Austrian wine. Background information and statistics ripened in balance – no overripeness.’ Ottonel for at the end of January.’ can be found on Austria’s four main wine regions, 16 wine-growing areas, eight DAC appellations, and 35 classified grape varieties. Austrian winemakers are listed, along with their importers in more than 50 Austrian wine Academy offers countries, and details are given of the latest Austrian Above: Neusiedlersee DAC will focus on wine tastings and events across the world. Anyone Neusiedlersee production of the red Zweigelt grape specialist course for connoisseurs wanting to know about the country’s approach to sustainable wine-growing, or the best food pairings year following the . The other Austria is continuing to expand its role as Smulders MW. It will offer an in-depth for Austrian wine, will also find what they need. becomes latest DAC category – the fuller, deeper Neusiedlersee one of the world’s leading centres of wine exploration of how the world’s finest ‘Our website isn’t full of pop-ups and DAC reserve – can be either a pure Zweigelt education. On 28 June, a week-long Fine wines are made, aged and handled. razzle dazzle,’ said This Burgenland region’s decision to implement the Austrian or a blend made with at least 60% Zweigelt, and Rare Wine Specialist course for wine This course is the latest offering in elite, Susanne Staggl, DAC system brings the total number of appellations to eight with the balance comprising one or more of collectors, sommeliers and aficionados professional and private wine education marketing manager Blaufränkisch, St Laurent and . The from across the globe will be held at that has developed in Austria over the last for the AWMB. ‘It is, ustria’s Neusiedlersee warm influence from the lake and the reserve must be minimum 13% alcohol, have Vienna’s Palais Coburg (pictured below), 20 years, coinciding with the country’s however, clear, down to wine-growing area has become Pannonian air from the west, the plentiful been matured in barriques or large which houses one of the finest wine growth in premium-quality winemaking. earth and the country’s eighth DAC sunshine and range of soils – including loess, casks, and released after 1 March of the collections in Europe. The course is being Since the Austrian Wine Academy was comprehensive. It’s also (Districtus Austriae black and brown earth, and sandy sediments second year following the harvest. The first organised by the head of the Austrian founded in 1991, it has become one of in five languages: Controllatus,A see p6) appellation – a move – give a full, ripe cherry-fruit expression to reserve DACs – also from the 2011 vintage Wine Academy, Dr Josef Schuller MW, Europe’s largest wine schools and has English and German, of that establishes a clear identity for the the Zweigelt,’ said Christian Zechmeister, – will be released in 2013. and Palais Coburg representative Frank established close affiliations with major course, plus Russian, region’s wine for the first time. marketing director for Burgenland wines. ‘The reserve wine has more body than the UK wine education bodies, including the Japanese and Chinese Comprising 7,615 hectares (ha) of , ‘And the tannins are velvety soft. These lighter-style of DAC wine,’ said Zechmeister. WSET (Wine and Spirit Education Trust) – especially important Neusiedlersee is part of the Burgenland wine typical characteristics are the basis of a Some of the most prominent winemakers and the Institute of Masters of Wine. since Austrian wine is really taking off in region and is home to a wide range of Neusiedlersee DAC wine.’ from Neusiedlersee are planning to produce International MW candidates can take those countries.’ premium red, white and sweet wines. With the There are two categories of wine in a DAC wine, including the members of the their first-year European residency seminar For those who may be intimidated by some new appellation status, however, the focus of the new appellation. The young, fresh, well-known Pannobile association. in Austria, and the programmes are of the German-language terminology around a Neusiedlersee DAC wine is the red Zweigelt fruit-forward style is made with Zweigelt, is a Austria’s other DAC appellations are (in conducted in English. Austrian wines, there is an extensive wine glossary, grape – the most widely planted variety in the minimum of 12% alcohol, and is matured in order of their formation) Weinviertel, Dr Schuller stated: ‘The education here as well as a section called ‘WineRap’ – audio area, with 1,812ha under vine. steel tanks or wooden casks. Its release date Mittelburgenland, Traisental, Kremstal, gives validity to the world-class wine we recordings of pronunciations of all terms, including ‘The combination of Neusiedlersee’s will always be no earlier than 1 March of the Kamptal, Leithaberg and Eisenberg. make, and the wine gives validity to our translations and explanations.

Photographs:Simeone Giovanni/SIME-4Corners Images; VarioImages Co.KG/Alamy;GmbH& Anzenberger Toni world-class education.’

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Jancis Robinson MW, with her highest acclaim reserved for Blaufränkisch. This is the grape ‘most likely to put Austrian reds on the map’, she wrote in UK broadsheet the Financial Times, praising its ‘fashionable medium Winning over rather than full body, refreshing aroma and ability to transmit subtle differences in ’. The whites also hit the headlines, in 2002, when at a blind tasting organised in London by fine wine dealer and collector Jan-Erik Paulson and hosted by Jancis the world Robinson MW and Tim Atkin MW, Austria’s Grüner Veltliners and Chardonnays were pitted against top When the Austrian wine industry set out to conquer white Burgundies. Seven of the 10 top places at the export markets in the mid-1980s, its image was at rock tasting were taken by Austrian wines, with highest bottom. Amy Wislocki charts its incredible journey rankings awarded to a 1990 smaragd (full-bodied) Grüner Veltliner made by Knoll in the Wachau. On trend very article about Austrian wine begins with now be found across Austrian wine regions, such as in Ten years later and Grüner Veltliner, more than any other the scandal in 1985,’ says Willi Klinger, head Kamptal at the Loimer and the Loisium hotel and grape, has helped to keep Austria in the headlines. ‘It’s of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board. ‘But restaurant, and at the Hillinger estate in Burgenland. become one of the great international grape varieties,’ we don’t mind – after all, it makes a great That family structure remains today, with Austria one says Klinger, ‘with producers in New Zealand, the US and story; a real “phoenix from the ashes”.’ of the few countries without any industrialised element even Australia planting it.’ Both Klinger and MacDonogh EIndeed it does. With the reputation of the country’s to its wine industry. In the past, bulk wine and juice had point out that the 2002 London tasting only highlighted wine industry in tatters after certain wines were found to accounted for a large proportion of exports, but slowly the smaragd, or ‘reserve’ style. Since then, the lighter have been doctored with the chemical commonly known and surely, smaller, quality producers gained momentum styles have also become very well established, promoted as antifreeze, producers had to rebuild consumer and mass production decreased. There was also a shift by sommeliers and retailers as versatile and characterful confidence from the ground up – hence the formation of to sustainable and organic winemaking methods; 9% of wines ideal for food matching (see p20). the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB) a year later. vineyards today are organic, against 3% 15 years ago. A ‘At the end of the day, it’s about getting glasses of Fast forward a quarter century to today, and Austrian further 75% are farmed sustainably, a sign of the growing Austria’s first red icon wine Austrian wine into wine lovers’ hands,’ says Klinger. New wine is the darling of sommeliers worldwide, on wine lists awareness that good fruit is is a prerequisite for good wine. and helped to show that marketing campaigns and the new DACs (see p6) will in many of the world’s top restaurants. 2011 saw exports the country was capable help, along with a focus on education which has seen the of quality wine reach an all-time high, and a new audience International acclaim of competing on the Austrian Wine Academy hand out more WSET diplomas is discovering the appeal of wines that can offer local Turning around the image of a country’s wines doesn’t international stage with its in contential Europe than any other wine school. character and cool-climate elegance. happen overnight. The wines were getting better and reds. At the time, ‘Every change in system takes a while to bed down,’ In a sense, the scandal helped to turn the wine industry better, but as Willi Klinger says, ‘it was an ongoing grapes accounted for just recognises Klinger, ‘but everyone agrees that origin and around, says Giles MacDonogh, Decanter World Wine process of resurrection and progress’. And slow but sure 15% of vineyard plantings representative wine styles are the way forward in Awards Regional Chair for Austria. ‘It brought such doesn’t make a good headline. – that has since doubled. educating consumers. Although there will obviously be oppobrium on Austria that many of the older generation If Austria’s new wines were to make an impact beyond ‘Producers used to think some complexity – after all, there are 46,000 hectares of of winemakers retired or resigned, and handed control to its own borders, they had to win the hearts and minds of ‘Shock results that Cabernet and , vineyard in Austria and we’re not selling a single product, their sons. They were in their 20s or 30s at the time, and the international wine critics, sommeliers and at high-profile Above: the Loisium wine aged in barrique, would make their name,’ recalls Klinger. like Coca-Cola – we intend to keep it as streamlined as so are still only in their 40s or 50s today.’ merchants, who could spread the word to consumers museum in Langenlois and ‘But the route to success has turned out to be the native possible, with a maximum 16 to 18 DACs. They are a great globally. Luckily for Austria, both the reds and the whites tastings helped Hillinger’s winery in grapes – St Laurent, Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt.’ tool, helping consumers buy something predictable.’ New confidence have captivated the trade and media, with shock results Burgenland (top) are MacDonogh also points to the rise of Pinot Noir: ‘it’s Buoyed by its success so far, Klinger is optimistic that This new generation, aided by EU subsidies which flooded at high profile tastings helping to spread awareness. to spread among the examples of probably the most exciting red grape for me in Austria Austrian wine is still on an upward trajectory. ‘We have a in significantly in the early 2000s, brought new techniques The reputation of its red wines was given a shot in the modern wine architecture right now, in terms of potential.’ Austrian Pinot also wine style that people today love – fresh and cool- into the vineyards and winery, and so helped transform arm when the German-Swiss magazine Vinum awarded awareness of that has sprung up as showed well in a blind tasting in 2010 in Singapore, climate but with some body too. There’s a great interest not just the wines – but the image of the wines. This new 18/20 points to a 1986 red from Rust in Burgenland, Ernst Austrian producers’ where examples trumped several famous red Burgundies. at the moment in terroir, authenticity and local grapes,

Photographs:Gabriele Croppi/SIME/4CornersImages; prideLucaGusso/SIME/SIME/4CornersImages is reflected in the striking architecture that can Triebaumer’s Blaufrankisch Mariental. This was, in effect, Austria’s wines’ confidence has risen Another critic won over by the country’s reds was and we’re lucky enough to have all three.’ D Landmarks in Austrian wine 1998 2002 1991 Sommelier World Championship in London Tasting Foundation of Vienna, won by German Markus del (see above). 2009 2011 the Austrian Monego MW (pictured). First Master of Wine Incredible red Exports reach their Wine Academy VieVinum trade show in Vienna Symposium in Vienna wine vintage highest ever value

1986 1995 1999 2003 2010 Foundation of the Austrian Wine Marketing Austria joins the EU, Austrian Wine Law introduces First DAC (Weinviertel DAC) AWMB relaunches website Board (AWMB). New Austrian Wine Law and starts to benefit Regional Committees, to introduced (www.austrianwine.com). Austria hosts introduces, among other things, distinctive red from EU subsidies develop typical regional styles, European Wine Bloggers Conference. and white capsules and quality analysis of wines and implements the legal basis Smallest vintage since 1985 for the introduction of DAC

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t a time when many of Europe’s Why start now, when the significant producers in winemakers are breaking free of the Europe started creating appellations more than 70 years straitjacket of appellation rules, who ago? The reason for doing it is much the same: to protect Austria’s would think it was a good idea to the origin and guarantee a standard of quality for the wine. introduce them? When the ‘SuperTuscans’, It’s helpful to start with a little history. There were Aamong others, have proved that it’s possible to enjoy a two triggers to action. The first was in 1985, when it was fine reputation outside the system, which country would revealed that certain wines had been adulterated with want to set one up? The answer is Austria. In 2003, it diethylene glycol. This ‘antifreeze’ scandal forced new age introduced its first DAC (the Austrian version of AC and Austria’s wine industry to take rapid steps to renew DOC) and, in the decade since then, it has created seven itself, and part of this recovery resulted in lessening the Many European producers are increasingly pulling away from further DACs, with plans to double that number. focus on regionality, including removing town names. So this more recent desire to create DACs, and to the rules imposed by appellations, yet Austria is embracing a Below: Leithaberg DAC in Burgenland produces elegant emphasise terroir and typicity, was an inevitable growing number of DACs. Sarah Jane Evans MW finds out why and spicy wines. Both red and white grapes are permitted reaction. The second trigger was the realisation that ➢ Photograph:Herbert Lehmann

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Austria needed to take action to defend the origin of its wines. Christian Zechmeister, marketing director for Burgenland wines, remembers, ‘cheap Grüner Veltliners being sold in supermarkets, made from Hungarian grapes’. Though not labelled as Austrian, many consumers would automatically associate Gruner with Austria. The first step was to guarantee the national identity – hence the red-and-white capsule bottle top (pictured opposite). The appellation was the second step in building defences. It was perhaps unfortunate that there was initially just one DAC region, Weinviertel, the large zone of Grüner Veltliner production north-west of Vienna. Until the Mittelburgenland DAC was created three years later, the concept of DAC was somehow misunderstood by many. Another difficulty was that the Weinviertel wines back then didn’t measure up in quality against the Grüners of DAC in a nutshell any regions further west along the Danube. Vienna-based wine consultant Jason Turner puts it kindly when he says: What is DAC? Does every grower make DAC wines? ‘The DAC was probably the best thing to happen to Austria’s version of the appellation There are many wines made in Weinviertel – it increased the reputation, quality and system, the equivalent of France’s Austria that fall outside the DAC consistency of style of the wines.’ AC/AOP. DAC stands for the Latin, geographical areas. There are also a There was an added complication, though. At the Districtus Austriae Controllatus. number of top-quality growers outset, many producers chose not to show the grape working inside a DAC area who variety on the label. Consumers were just supposed to How many DACs are there? choose not to use the letters. know that Weinviertel DAC meant Grüner Veltliner. The Currently eight (see p11). There is requirement has, sensibly, now been relaxed. When the potential to grow the number to What if a producer wants to use a international sommeliers 16, but the intention is to keep the different variety from the ones are doing such good total eventual number no higher. allowed in the DAC? marketing for ‘Grooner’ An Eisenberg, Mittelburgenland, and ‘Groovy’ wines, surely Are there any new DACs coming soon? Neusiedlersee or Leithaberg DAC it is better to join them A new DAC has, in fact, just been producer would label the wine rather than insist on announced – Neusiedlersee (see as Burgenland; a wine from Kamptal, imposing ‘Weinviertel’. ‘What’s New in Austria’, p2) – which Kremstal, Traisental or Weinviertel Looking back on the includes the group of renowned red would still qualify as quality wine, decade since DACs were wine producers known as Pannobile. but would take the more generic first introduced, the This DAC focuses on Zweigelt: 85% Niederöesterreich label. director of the Austrian minimum for the classic (younger) Wine Marketing Board, wine, a minimum 60% blend for the What about the sweet wines? Willi Klinger, reflects that reserve. There are no specific plans All DAC wines are dry, under 6g/l there was another way the for further DACs, but Thermenregion residual sugar for the classic situation could have been and the Gemischter Satz wines of Weinviertel style, and up to 9g/l for handled. With his tongue Vienna would be logical choices. reserve wines. There is a case for not entirely in his cheek, creating a DAC for the western part he says: ‘If I was Napoleon, When did DACs start? of Lake Neusiedel, for the Ruster I would have implemented In 2003, with Weinviertel, northwest Ausbruch wines, and another for the DACs all at once. Above: Silvia Prieler, pictured here with her brother the iron-rich soils of the Eisenberg (‘iron mountain’) after of Vienna. This DAC is for Grüner the eastern part, around Illmitz. Then we could have Georg, is one of the founders of Leithaberg DAC. which the district is named lend a mineral purity. Veltliner only. If you buy Weinviertel tweaked the details later Left: Fred Loimer is one of the leading wine-industry Despite his enthusiasm, the system has its critics. DAC wine, you’re buying Grüner. What is the benefit for the consumer? to reflect developments in figures in Kamptal and an active participant in DAC issues Take UK wine merchant Noel Young, who represents The DAC label guarantees a certain knowledge and changes Fritz Wieninger, Kurt Angerer and the Kracher estate. He Is the DAC label only for white wines? typicity from a specific region. The in climate.’ Klinger, surely is blunt: ‘It may work in Austria, but turning Kamptal into No, it’s for reds too – in the classic wines are fruit-driven and Europe’s most dynamic generic wine marketer, formerly encouraging the inexperienced grower to be ambitious. Kamptal DAC does not make any difference in the UK.’ Burgenland region, including the medium-bodied in style. The worked for Angelo Gaja, that other wine-marketing star. Over in Kremstal, in the city-centre winery of Stadt He also articulates the global concern about using new Neusiedlersee DAC. reserve wines are more full-bodied, He was able to observe the confusion of multiple DOCs Krems, Franz-Josef Gansberger isn’t afraid to say he is a tasting panels to enforce typicity: ‘Who is going to with potential for ageing. and DOCGs in Italy, and is determined that Austria will ‘The DAC was ‘fan’ of DACs. ‘Nobody used to put Kremstal on the front dictate a style? I don’t think that one way is the only way.’ What does DAC guarantee? follow a simpler path, with no more than 16 DACs. label, but now we’re there – between the big guns of Klinger is alert to the problems of regulations and That the wine is a quality wine, with What is the benefit for the producers? Members of the newer DACs have also had time to learn probably the Wachau and Kamptal.’ Zechmeister adds: ‘In the medium inward-looking tasting panels. He uses Chablis as a approved typicity. Each DAC has its In established regions, where from their country’s early mistakes. Biochemist Silvia and long term, the DAC will be important internationally. reference: ‘Every Master of Wine student should be able own rules about levels of botrytis individual producers are already Prieler is one of the founders of Leithaberg DAC, which best thing to For instance, sommeliers in the USA need to be able to to spot it in a blind tasting, but we celebrate the fact that and alcohol, oak usage and ageing. known, it’s less important. Whereas permits a number of varieties. She supports the DAC tell a story about the wine and this way they can say, some wines are fermented in stainless steel, others in for Eisenberg, which became a concept for democratic reasons. While Austria is famous happen to the “this is a typical wine from this appellation”.’ oak, and we love the diversity.’ What is the approval system? red-wine DAC in 2010, the difference for individual winemakers and single vineyards, she Zechmeister’s remit at Burgenland is strongly focused One of the leading figures in Kamptal, Fred Loimer, is A panel of producers and members was immediate. Many producers, believes that in the long term ‘our region must be famous, Weinviertel on reds. Of the four DACs, three are for red varieties only. actively involved in DAC issues, and one of his solutions of the wine trade tastes the wines especially of Blaufränkisch, which not just the winemaker’. Her colleague, Erwin Tinhof, Blaufränkisch features in all three; each clearly enables for the tasting panels is to have more retasting of wines blind. Four or five out of six of them has no international profile, see DAC adds that for smaller, lesser-known producers, another region’ him to tell a different story of terroir and style. Eisenberg which fail first time or divide opinion. Yet he recognises have to agree that a wine is typical. as a shortcut to quality recognition.

Photograph:Herbert Lehmann plus is that they receive advice on pricing DAC wines – Jason Turner DAC, for instance, lies next to Mittelburgenland DAC, but that every system has rules which can trap even the best. ➢

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(Burgenland) Neusiedlersee DAC (7,615ha) Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, St Laurent, Pinot Noir The newest DAC, for reds only, grown on varied soils. Wines have red cherry notes with silky tannins. Two styles are made: young and fresh; or fuller and deeper. Launched from 2011 vintage

Leithaberg DAC (3,576ha) White: Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), , Neuburger (Roter Veltliner x Sylvaner), Grüner Veltliner Red: Blaufränkisch Terroir profile of primary rock, chalk and lime results in elegant, spicy wines. Reds must be aged in oak and released a minimum of two years after harvest. Launched with reds from 2008 vintage, whites from 2009

Mittelburgenland DAC (2,117ha) Blaufränkisch For red wines only. DAC wines are bright and juicy, with red cherry fruit and spicy notes when young, grown on deep loamy soils. Reserve wines are bigger styles, often with oak influence. Launched from 2005 vintage Above: Traisental’s Markus Huber grows 50% of the region’s Riesling Left: Kamptal DAC is home to many renowned producers and single vineyards Eisenberg DAC (498ha) Blaufränkisch For red wines only. While Mittelburgenland’s Blaufränkisch is spicy, round, and full-bodied, The eight DACs… Eisenberg’s is structured and mineral, with more precise fruit. The reserve has depth from oak ageing. (Niederösterreich) DAC classic from 2009 vintage, DAC reserve from 2008 Kremstal DAC (2,243 ha) Grüner Veltliner, Riesling Moving from west to east, primary rock gives way to …and beyond loess (wind-blown silt). The former makes for intense, mineral wines, while the latter is ideal for Niederösterreich (non DAC) ‘In 25 years’ His colleague, biodynamic producer Hannes Hirsch, the opulent Grüners. DAC Reserve permits subtle botrytis Wachau (1,350ha) Austria’s most widely Falstaff Guide’s 2011 Winemaker of the Year, has a and oak influences. Wachau introduced its own quality categories for dry time, our powerful Riesling with 9.5g/l residual sugar – 0.5g/l Launched from 2007 vintage wines in the 1980s: Steinfeder (light), Federspiel planted grape varieties above the permitted level for reserve wines. In many (classic) and Smaragd (full, powerful), with the focus children will circumstances, 9.5g/l would taste sweet, but the level of Kamptal DAC (3,802ha) on Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Top six whites Planted % of total acidity is so high in this wine that the overall effect is dry. Grüner Veltliner, Riesling Rules are rules, though, and this exceptional wine from a There are so many renowned producers and single Wagram (2451ha) grüner Veltliner 13,514ha 29.4% order a single vineyard doesn’t qualify for the DAC. vineyards here, they hardly need a DAC to market Formerly known as Donauland, it focuses on Grüner 3,597ha 7.8% Leithaberg For the same reason, a top producer from, say, them. Soils are mixed – from loess and gravel to Veltliner and Roter Veltliner. Müller Thurgau 2,102ha 4.65% Kamptal who makes an exceptional sweet wine, such as volcanic, most famously Heiligenstein. DAC Reserve an Eiswein or a Trockenbeerenauslese, can’t put DAC on Carnuntum (910ha) Weissburgunder 1,995ha 4.3% DAC in the permits subtle botrytis and oak influences. the label – Kamptal DAC is for dry wines only, as this is Launched from 2008 vintage Focuses on red grapes, Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. riesling 1,863ha 4.1% same way that what the region is famous for, and the DAC system is all Chardonnay 1,431ha 3.1% about typicity. Instead the producer would have to rely Traisental DAC (790ha) Thermenregion (2,196ha) we order a on its own reputation to sell the wine. Grüner Veltliner, Riesling Produces whites in the north (Zierfandler, Rotgipfler) A further issue for growers is that the DAC defines The chalk and gravel terraces of Traisental give a and reds in the south (St Laurent, Pinot Noir). Top six reds Planted % of total Brunello now’ release dates, and growers believe this fuels consumer distinctly structured character, with brisk acidity, to Zweigelt 6,412ha 13.9% Erwin Tinhof desire for the newest vintage. As Traisental’s Markus the wines. Made for long ageing, no botrytis or oak Blaufränkisch 3,228ha 7% Huber observes: ‘Single-vineyard wines aren’t made to influences are permitted. Steiermark (4,240ha) (non DAC) be drunk young, and yet no one is interested in buying Launched from 2006 vintage Subject to sub-region, it focuses on Morillon Blauer portugieser 1,621 ha 3.5% last year’s vintage once the new vintage is out.’ (Chardonnay), Schilcher, Weissburgunder, Sauvignon Blauburger 897ha 2% Overall, however, Turner believes the judgment Weinviertel DAC (13,356 ha) Blanc and Muskateller. st Laurent 775ha 1.7% on Austria’s appellation system has to be favourable. Grüner Veltliner Naturally it will take time before a DAC wine is ordered Austria’s first DAC. An extensive region with varied pinot noir 646ha 1.4% with the same confidence as a or a , but soils. In general, the Grüners are rounded, with peach For Sarah Jane Evans’ top Vienna (612ha) (non DAC) Tinhof, for one, is convinced that time will come: ‘In 25 fruit, and white and green pepper notes. Reserve styles DAC wines to try, visit Whites and reds. Wiener Gemischter Satz, meaning years’ time,’ he says, ‘our children will order a Leithaberg are full-bodied and riper, some with oak influence. www.decanter.com/ ‘field blend’ or ‘mixed planting’, is Vienna’s traditional

DAC in the same way that we order a Brunello now.’ D Photographs:Herbert Lehmann; WEINFRANZ (lt.UrhG) Launched from 2003 vintage austriadac white and is a blend of several varieties. SJE

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AUS_p006-11 DAC introduced 10 12/04/2012 12:15 AUS_p006-11 DAC introduced 11 12/04/2012 12:15 sponsored guide

Five treats to try Ernst Triebaumer, Rust 2006 HHHHH 19pts/20 £30/375ml Great Western Wine (Chardonnay, Welschriesling and ) Gorgeous, honeyed- apricot nose. Very sweet, velvety and intense, almost syrupy, yet not heavy due to high acidity. Still youthful and luxurious with irresistible apricot fruit and good length. Drink: 2012–2030. Alcohol: 11.5%

Feiler-Artinger, Pinot Cuvée, Rust 2007 HHHHH 18.5 £26.95/375ml Slurp Sumptuous, botrytised aromas of peach and Above: Evidence suggests that the picturesque, lakeside town of Rust has tropical fruits. Very sweet but lean and racy; tight, specialised in the production of Ausbruch wines since the mid-17th century silky, impeccably balanced and very long. An elegant style. Drink: 2012–2030. Alc: 11%.

Giefing, Furmint, Rust 2008 HHHH 18 a variety cultivated back in Hungarian times, for N/A UK www.wein-rust.at Ausbruch wines. Both single-varietal and multi-varietal Lively, fiery nose – honeyed, burnished and Ausbruchs are made. oaky. Fine attack, very sweet but good Traditional Ausbruch, however, is on the wane. Just acidity; not super-concentrated but as in Sauternes, the wines have been getting sweeter elegant, honeyed and vibrant. Good and sweeter – 20 years ago, 90g residual sugar would length. Drink: 2012–2025. Alc: 10.5% have been the norm, whereas today it is more likely to be 130g or 150g. There is a perception in Rust that powerful, Wenzel, SAZ, Rust 2006 HHHH 18 dense, moderately sweet Ausbruch won’t find favour N/A UK +43 (0 26 85 287 with modern consumers, who are thought to prefer the (Gelber Muskateller and Furmint) Orange raciness of a BA or TBA. Moreover, TBA-style Ausbruchs and mandarin on the nose. Very rich, sumptuous have always been made – a 1973 Welschriesling Ausbruch and spicy, almost fiery. This is limpid and fresh, with from Schandl has 300g residual sugar. Some growers use intensity and length. Drink: 2012–2030. Alc: 11.5%. the term ‘Essenz’ to indicate an intensely sweet style. A lightly oxidative tone used to be considered Heidi Schröck, Turner Furmint, Rust 2005 appropriate for Ausbruch, as it is for Tokaji, and not ‘You can HHHH 17.5 everyone finds that tone acceptable or attractive. The £55.20/375ml (2006) Nick Dobson consequence is that many wines from Rust, even though always taste Dusty, dried-fruits nose. Very sweet and intense, labelled as Ausbruch, are hard to distinguish from BAs the minerality showing dried apricots and tropical fruit. Highly and TBAs from the other side of the lake. There’s no concentrated, with a hint of raisins on the long finish. obligation to make Ausbruch in an oxidative style, but and saltiness Drink: 2012–2025. Alc: 10.5% National treasure it was always considered a legitimate approach, even Ausbruch is a traditional style of Austrian sweet wine that producers have if it has now fallen from fashion somewhat. in Ausbruch’ For UK stockist details, see p135 of the main issue changed and adapted over the years. stephen Brook journeys to Rust on Mineral character Heidi Schröck (above) Lake Neusiedl to find out more about the modern approach Heidi Schröck believes there is a discernible difference. ‘Our grapes for Ausbruch are grown on loamy sand with around 11.5% alcohol and up to 200g residual sugar. Yet limestone and schist, and you can always taste the they still seem to have Ausbruch typicity. minerality and saltiness. Maybe that’s the main These wines can live a long time, often darkening in difference compared to the sweet wines on the eastern colour to a mahogany brown. Their acidity, extract and, side of the lake. Those wines tend to have more explosive indeed, sugar keep them fresh and vibrant for decades. tropical fruit flavours, as the grapes usually ripen That 1973 from Schandl is still in good shape: oxidative on uring a visit to Austria’s Neusiedlersee was being made and traded in Rust in 1614, if not earlier. Above: Ausbruch wines can considerably earlier.’ Herbert Triebaumer, of the Ernst the nose, with aromas of caramelised oranges and figs, region in the mid-1980s, I called on By the 19th century, it enjoyed international renown. be cellared and preserved Triebaumer estate, agrees wholeheartedly: ‘You can still and a creamy, caramelly palate, balanced by good acidity. Georg Stiegelmar in the village of Gols. Ausbruch differs from more familiar styles, such as for a very long time due to recognise Ausbruch, as it has a fiercer character than a As is probably clear by now, the Ausbruch category Here, I was treated to a taste of a Beerenauslese (BA) and Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA), in a high natural acidity and typical TBA.’ has become rather ill-defined. Other than minimum bewildering range of sweet wine styles, its balance. The regulations allow the grapes for sugar content It’s difficult to define the style, however, as each sugar levels, which are usually exceeded anyway, there Dsuch as , Essenz and Ausbruch. These wines’ Ausbruch to be slightly less rich in sugar than for TBA grower vinifies their wine slightly differently. Wenzel, are no constraints on each grower’s decisions regarding origins lie in the days before 1921, when this region was wines, but in practice they tend not to be. an ardent producer of Ausbruch, and his son Michael grape varieties, style or balance. This is positive in many part of Hungary. The varieties cultivated include Welschriesling, Pinot deliberately pick grapes with varying degrees of botrytis ways, but makes it difficult for consumers to know what The most consistent of the ancient styles was always Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Muskat Ottonel, Gelber infection, for additional complexity, and also blend in they’re getting in a fairly expensive, small bottle. On the Ausbruch, a speciality of one village, the pretty lakeside Muskateller, and Gewurztraminer, and growers such as some healthy berries. They opt for long barrel-ageing other hand, the top wines from the top producers are

resort of Rust. Documentary evidence suggests that it Robert Wenzel and Heidi Schröck have revived Furmint, Photographs:KarinRollett-Vlcek/GettyImages; Herbert withoutLehmann; Cephas Picture Library/Alamy racking, and generally end up with wines of among the finest sweet wines in the world. D

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Joseph’s top six non-DAC whites

Knoll, Ried Loibenberg Wieninger, Nussberg Gemischter Riesling Smaragd, Wachau Satz Alte Reben, Wien 2010 2010 HHHHH 18.5pts/20 HHHH 17.5 £31.57 Lay & Wheeler £ 20.95 Noel Young An understatement of what’s Vienna’s signature field blend – White yet to come. Whiffs of exotic Gemischter Satz – from 50-year-old peach, smoky minerality and vines. Light bread and nut aroma, with lemon sabayon. Sophisticated a hint of cumin. Juicy, round, mineral- palate, with juicy minerality, tinged flavours of lemon balm, with vibrant acidity and a gentle touches of citrus and pineapple. Spicy, knights spiciness. Still evolving. mouthwatering finish. An ideal partner Drink: 2013–2025. Alcohol: 13% for fish. Drink: 2012–2019. Alc: 13.5% News of the new Austrian appellations might be Tegernseerhof, Höhereck Grüner Wohlmuth, Edelschuh grabbing all the headlines, but Darrel Joseph travels Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau 2010 Elite Sauvignon Blanc, further afield to find some unclassified white wonders HHHH 18 Südsteiermark 2009 £29.99 Stevens Garnier HHHH 17.5 Seductive, mineral-laden nose with £28 Hamer Wine notes of herbs and lemon drop. From slate terroir, this is hile the DAC appellation system the specific wine-growing area of Südsteiermark, or A number of dry, white Sophisticated structure, and flavours sleek and refined, with stony continues to wind its way through Southern Styria, it is vinified to world-class greatness. wines from non-DAC of white peach, physalis and peppery mineral, cream and spice Austria’s wine districts, there are still That may be a hefty claim but, considering the growing vineyards are already spice. Cool minerality and fine acidity. notes. Firm, cool structure. a number of regions that have not conditions, it’s easy to see why. The vineyards are world-renowned Goes beyond varietal expression. Fresh acidity and a white yet adopted it. Some winemakers dramatically poised on hyper-steep slopes that soar – particularly Grüner Drink: 2012–2019. Alc: 13.5 % peach tone on the finish. Ware getting closer to the implementation stage; others (some up to nearly 600 metres) and dip across the Veltliner and Riesling Fine length. Drink: 2012–2022. Alc: 13% are still carefully weighing up the pros and cons of a DAC. southern-most part of the country. Nutrients from the from Wachau Leth, Roter Veltliner Outside this debate, there are, of course, many array of slate, limestone and sandstone soils, enhanced Scheiben, Wagram 2011 Johanneshof Reinisch, wonderful wines coming from non-DAC vineyards that by the Mediterranean air, push the vines to produce a HHHH 17.5 Gumpoldskirchner Tradition, should not be missed. In fact, some of them are already panoply of dry, aromatic wines: zippy, ready-to-drink £22.99 Dudley & de Fleury Thermenregion 2011 HHHH 17 world-renowned – particularly, the dry Grüner Veltliners ‘junker’; the medium-bodied ‘classic’; and, most Highly aromatic, with £10.95 (2009) Astrum and from Wachau. impressively, the deep, thrusting, cumquat, wisteria and cool Traditional off-dry blend of indigenous This small, but outstandingly beautiful, region in the mineral-packed wines from single melon scents. Palate bursting Zierfandler and Rotgipfler varieties. state of Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) is planted with vineyards such as Nussberg, with tangy, fresh star fruit Physalis, star fruit, citrus and rosemary just 1,350 hectares of vineyards, some 75km west of Hochgrassnitzberg, Czamillonberg, and ripe melon, as well as on the nose. Elegant palate, with pear, Vienna. Its Grüner Veltliner and Riesling vineyard sites Obegg, Kranachberg, Zieregg and a hint of orange peel. Full, firm spice and silky texture. Discreet – such as Achleiten, Schütt, Kellerberg, Loibenberg, Steinriegel. mineral-laced structure on acidity. Drink: 2012–2018. Alc: 12% Honivogl, Singerriedel and Klaus – have been capturing ‘The beautiful thing about the palate. Excellent length, with a light the palates of the world’s top restaurateurs, sommeliers single-vineyard wines is that the almond finish. Drink: 2012–2016. For UK stockist details, see p135 of the and wine lovers for several years. grape variety steps back in favour of Alc: 14% main issue What makes Wachau wines so exceptional is the the terroir,’ says winemaker Gerhard perfect confluence of terroir, microclimates and talented Wohlmuth Jr from Kitzeck. winemakers. Woven into the steep hillsides overlooking Whether you’re looking for young the Danube, in soils of granite, gneiss and slate, are and light or full-bodied and aged, Rotgipfler has a softer, round acidity and can be While Roter Veltliner is a speciality of the Wagram, the ancient stone terraces yielding mineral-rich Rieslngs there are other varieties to seek out more minerally, with up-front fruit flavours such as mainstay grape here is Grüner Veltliner which, thanks to with an exciting edginess. Meanwhile, on the slopes of in Südsteiermark, too, including honeydew and pear, and even a touch of nuttiness. those loess soils, exudes peppery spice and minerality. the lower hills of the Wachau, layers of sandy loess give Morillon (Chardonnay), Gelber Zierfandler and Rotgipfler are often vinified together excellent body and structure to the area’s signature Muskateller, Grauburgunder (Pinot and they both share Roter Veltliner as a parent grape. Valued tradition mineral-and-spice Grüner Veltliners. gris), Weißburgunder (Pinot blanc), Interestingly, Roter Veltliner (no relation to Grüner Next door to Wagram is Wien (Vienna), one of few With its ancient castle ruins, Gothic churches and Welschriesling and Traminer. Veltliner) shows excellent character and expression in a capital cities to have a significant wine-growing sector. Baroque towns and abbeys, the Wachau region holds Above: Gerhard Wohlmuth completely different region – Wagram, whose 2,450ha As Vienna is both a city and a state, there are ideal UNESCO World Heritage Site status, and its wines have Indigenous charm Jr of Weingut Wohlmuth of vineyards extend out from Vienna’s western border. locations for the 612ha of vineyards planted with a wide their own distinctive beauty. In fact, a tradition-oriented In terms of the more unusual, indigenous Austrian is passionate about Here, the general climate is continental, with warm range of white varieties, such as Grüner Veltliner, classification system has been in place here since the grapes, the rare Zierfandler and Rotgipfler call the single-vineyard wines, summers, dry autumns and cool nights. These Chardonnay, Weissburgunder and Riesling. But it’s the 1980s, comprising three quality tiers: fresh, light shots in Thermenregion, an area with roughly 2,200ha which he believes best conditions, together with well-drained soils of loess harvesting, and fermenting of all of these Steinfeder with a maximum alcohol level of 11%; deeper, under vine, just south of Vienna. show the terroir of Styria and limestone inclusions, coax Roter Veltliner to deliver varieties together into one wine – the Wiener Gemischter medium-bodied Federspiel, with 11%–12.5% alcohol; and The late-ripening Zierfandler tends to show wines with ripe, exotic fruit flavours, bold alcohol, Satz (traditional Viennese field blend) – that has made a Smaragd, for potent, full-bodied wines, with bold mineral dried-fruit tones and sprightly acidity, and can be bright acidity and a nutty finish. Of course, getting storming comeback in Austria over the last few years. All Based in Vienna, Darrel concentration and often decades-long ageability. enjoyed either young and fresh or as a fine, cask- to this point isn’t always so simple. of the grapes for this blend must be grown together in a Joseph is a wine writer and matured wine, ideal for laying down. Hans Stadlmann, ‘Roter Veltliner is a challenging grape,’ says single vineyard, and a handful of top Viennese producers judge, who has specialised World-class Sauvignon head of the Thermenregion regional committee, winemaker Franz Leth from Fels am Wagram. ‘It requires are utilising their prime vineyards to create these wines. in the wines of Central, Although Sauvignon Blanc is not abundant in Austria, it describes the new style for Zierfandler as botrytis free good canopy management to keep the bunches aerated. If there were to be a Wien DAC one day, the Wiener Eastern and southeastern

Photograph:Herbert Lehmann is very much at home in Styria – the Steiermark. And in and fruit forward. They are easily susceptible to botrytis.’ Gemischter Satz should be its essence. D Europe since 1995

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AUS_p014-15 whites 14 12/04/2012 12:50 AUS_p014-15 whites 15 12/04/2012 12:50 sponsored guide

Joseph’s top five non-DAC reds

Muhr-van der Niepoort, Mouthfuls of zesty freshness and Blaufränkisch, springy acidity, together with some Carnuntum 2009 more strawberry, pepper, and a few HHHHH 18.5 dried-herb notes. Also a touch of citrus. £15 Indigo Wine Excellent body, and a structure with Fine and juicy, with surprisingly toned-down tannins. mineral elegance, Drink: 2012–2015. Alc: 12.5% sleek acidity, and notes of cherries and herbs. Gerhard Markowitsch, Supreme structure. Zweigelt Rubin A great food wine. Carnuntum 2010 HHHH 17 Drink: 2012–2020. Alcohol: 13% N/A UK www.markowitsch.at Aromas of cool cherry Heinrich Hartl III, St and boysenberry. A fresh Laurent Reserve, palate gives off tones of Thermenregion 2009 cherry, plum, clove, white HHHH 18 pepper, blackcurrant, and £22.50 Merry Widows touches of bay leaf and Aromas of amarena cherry liquorice – all wrapped and lingonberry, with up in a mineral frame. Nice, balanced whiffs of thyme and dried acidity and tannins. Drink: 2012–2017. oregano. The palate gives Alc: 13% light, elegant succulence, with flavours of rose hip, Anton Bauer, Zweigelt Reserve, cranberry and mandarin, and a hint of Wagram 2009 HHHH 16.5 cellar, fermentation with natural vineyard yeasts, careful dark chocolate. Soft tannins, dainty £21.99 Top Selection maturation, and more time in larger oak casks (rather than spice and graceful acidity. Fine Lovely aroma of cherry strudel, a hint barriques) to preserve the fruit. Even more interestingly, varietal character. Quaffing joy. of cinnamon stick and clove, and a Shining through some producers, including Grassl, are looking beyond Drink: 2012–2017. Alc: 13.5% whiff of pepper that moves through to the usual clay and sandy Zweigelt terroir and planting the palate. Spicy and soft, with full, Austria isn’t yet known for its red wines, but a new appellation and improved the grape in dry, gravelly soils for ultimate finesse. Domäne Müller, Der Seelenfreund round cherry and currant notes. Soft techniques will soon lead to international recognition, says Darrel Joseph Not to be outdone, the Blaufränkisch grape is finding Schilcher, Kabinett-Ried Burgegg, tannins. Uncomplicated, fresh drinking. its feet too, especially on the Spitzerberg, a unique island Weststeiermark 2011 HHHH 18 Drink: 2012–2015. Alc: 13% of vineyards on the last foothill of the Carpathian N/A UK www.domaene-mueller.at mountains. While tiny, family-owned vineyard plots have A rosé-like wine with a rich strawberry For UK stockist details, see p135 ustrian reds are on the up. The recent been the norm here for several decades, only recently hue. Peppered strawberry on the nose. of the main issue announcement that the Neusiedlersee have established winemakers managed to uncover the region now has DAC status (see p2) wonders of the Spitzerberg’s limestone-rich soils and brings the number of red-wine-only cool, windy evenings. Wines of sleek minerality, fine appellations to three, and that’s only half tannins and exquisite acidity are the welcome result. this grape is planted here, and it’s vinified in a variety of Aof the story. The fine-tuning of vineyards and Over in Thermenregion Pinot Noir and St Laurent grow styles – from sparkling to sweet – its rosé expression has winemaking prowess across the country has led to a very well, with St Laurent in particular showing its true long been a staple of Weststeiermark. Traditionally, whole range of refined reds being produced, DAC and personality here. From the meagre limestone and gravel Schilcher (the local name for Blauer Wildbacher) is made otherwise, to enchant today’s wine lover. soils it thrives in, amid the warm Pannonian daytime air from grapes with searing acidity, and the locals love this Non-DAC gems are particularly rife in the up-and- and the cool autumn evening winds, St Laurent produces classic style. More and more producers, however, now coming regions: work-in-progress territories that have wines of medium weight, showing spicy, soft, red berry also make a premium, dry version by letting the grapes excellent grapes, fabulous soils and a bevy of ambitious, fruits, and elegant understatement mingled with high hang until later to gain more ripeness and lower acidity. quality-driven winemakers determined to take their expressiveness. It also exudes lots of silky minerality that Regions such as Kremstal and Kamptal, which have a regions to new heights and, perhaps, to DAC status. Above: Philipp Grassl from Göttlesbrunn advocates fresh, winemakers in the area are keen to preserve, so there isn’t DAC for their whites, are obviously best known for these The Carnuntum region, with 910 vineyard hectares fruity, elegant styles of wine. Right: Gerhard Markowitsch much heavy oaking going on in the cellar. Pinot Noir – St. wines, but don’t forget the quality reds that are also nestled between Vienna and Austria’s eastern border to makes a quality Rubin Canuntum wine (see box on p17) Laurent’s relative – is treated similarly not only because of produced there – Bründlmayer’s Pinot Noir, for instance. Slovakia, is chock-full of exciting developments with its own elegance and refinement, but especially because Just remember that these will now be labelled as Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. Zweigelt, a 90-year-old of its dainty fruit purity and porcelainesque structure. Neiderösterreich (see p11 for an at-a-glance guide to cross between Blaufränkisch and St Laurent, is planted in and freshness, less use of new oak and lower yields in the St Laurent and Pinot Noir are usually vinified to DACs, regions and sub-regions). half of the region’s vineyards and, until recent years, was vineyard. The elegant, not-too-opulent style is catching on.’ medium- and full-bodied styles in Thermenregion and Another region that is far better known for its whites made as a high-yield, simple wine with little lifespan. In An example of this can be found to some extent in the DAC status is being discussed for both varieties (also for but is producing some exciting reds is non-DAC the 1990s, however, local winemakers moved towards medium-bodied Rubin Carnuntum, a varietal wine made white wines, Zierfandler and Rotgipfler). Wagram. Here, the area’s loess soils are transforming the opposite end of the spectrum, coming up with big every year by several vintners, in a fruit-forward style with Another Austrian speciality that’s enjoying a major Zweigelt into juicy, opulent styles, with the assistance of variations – from oaky and tannic to fat, jam-laden wines. no new-wood expression and drinkability of around five renaissance at home – as well as gaining notice abroad well-integrated barrel-maturing. And even Wien (Vienna), This has now changed significantly. ‘A few years ago, years. Winemakers are also finding that Zweigelt can, in – is the Schilcher, a dry rosé-style wine made from the which is generally associated with its white Gemischter it was a case of “the bigger, the better”,’ says winemaker fact, be made into an elegant, premium wine – through red Blauer Wildbacher grape in the Weststeiermark Satz field blend, is starting to produce some truly Philipp Grassl from Göttlesbrunn. ‘Today it’s about fruit the gentle treatment of the grapes in the vineyard and (West Styria) region of Steiermark. While just 500ha of impressive Pinot Noirs. D

16 | Austria 2012 • sponsored guide SPONSORED GUIDE • Austria 2012 | 1 7

AUS_p016-17 reds 16 12/04/2012 13:00 AUS_p016-17 reds 17 12/04/2012 13:01 have implemented the DACs all at once. T

sponsored guide Best-value buys Grüner Veltliner and Riesling may have been the grapes that first introduced Austrian Weingut Hirsch‚ Trinkvergnügen Stadt Krems, Lössterrassen Stift Goettweig, Gottschelle wine to the world, but there’s a plethora of styles to tempt the tastebuds these days Grüner Veltliner, Niederösterreich Grüner Veltliner, Grüner Veltliner, Kremstal DAC 2011 HHHH 18 Niederösterreich 2011 HHHH 17.5 2007 HHHH 17.5 N/A UK www.weingut-hirsch.at £11.95–£12.20 Clark Foyster, Slurp £17.80 OW Loeb No more than a couple of years Jan Konetzki is And even if some of the wines have reached premium ‘Trinkvergnügen’ means ‘a pleasure to drink’. Green apples, pears, lime and radishes on the Even with a little age to it, I still found citrus ago, thinking about Austria head sommelier at price levels, you can still find good value. But this wine’s not as easy going and nose. Crisp acidity and a neat finish. and cider apple notes. Structured palate and a brought only the flagship Restaurant Gordon Since these two standard-bearers have whetted the straightforward as one might expect. Green Drink: 2012–2014. Alc: 12% grippy mouthfeel. Shouts for food. varietal wines made from Grüner Ramsay in London appetite for Austrian wine, other grapes and styles have apple and nashi pear, with enough spice and Drink: 2012–2015. Alc: 13.5% Veltliner and Riesling to mind. started to appear in the limelight, steadily climbing up in bite to remember it for next time. Grüner Veltliner’s unique sommeliers’ estimations. Some are made from lesser- Drink: 2012–2014. Alc: 12.5% flavour profile aces in a range of known varieties and many are single-vineyard wines. The different styles. The fruit-driven, diversity is exciting for wine lovers who are looking for Red spicy, tell-tale peppery flavours new discoveries. Only time will tell if the international – without new oak – manage to market is ready for these wines, or whether diversity will fill a gap somewhere between bring confusion. Personally, I’m full of excitement for the the wines of Alsace and Burgundy. Grüner Veltliner is new niche wines of Austria. particularly useful as it provides a great match for many If I were to look for my preferred adrenaline kicks, foods. Riesling, meanwhile, keeps its racy spirit in Austria For UK stockist details, I would perhaps plump for a crunchy Blaufränkisch, Weingut Erich & Walter Polz, Gerhard & Brigitte Pittnauer, Gut Oggau, Atanasius, and, with a bit of bottle age, develops the magic petrol see p135 in the main issue. a biodynamic white blend or one of the less-famed Klassik Sauvignon Blanc‚ Dorflagen Pinot Noir, Burgenland 2009 HHHHH 19 and tropical notes that really float a sommelier's boat. These wines were tasted, varietal wines, such as Rotgipfler. Don't say goodbye HHHH 17.5 Neusiedlersee 2008 HHHHH 19 The status of both wines has jumped from a delicious non-blind, at Wines of to Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, though – just make Steiermark 2010 N/A UK www.gutoggau.com surprise for many customers to a bona fide modern Austria’s London tasting space in your wine rack for a few more thrilling bottles £16.50–£17 Clark Foyster, Slurp £15 Clark Foyster, Slurp A blend of 60% Zweigelt and 40% Blaufränkisch. classic and a must-have reference on any wine list. in February sporting an Austrian flag on the capsule. Gooseberries, lemon peel, herbs and grass on Feel-good Pinot Noir nose. Aromas of almonds, A perfume of black and red cherries, beetroot the nose; palate is pure stony minerality, fresh sweet black cherries, ripe plums, and some and some tar. The palate has a good grip and and well balanced. Drink: 2012–2014. Alc: 12% meaty and spicy notes. Soft, juicy and viscous freshness, with cherry and roast red pepper palate. Drink: 2012–2015. Alc: 13.5% flavours. Drink: 2012–2016. Alc: 12.5% White

Bernhard Ott, Am Berg Grüner Gut Oggau, Theodora, Sepp Moser, Breiter Rain Grüner Weingut Moric, Blaufränkisch, Prieler‚ Johanneshöhe Weingut Schellmann, An der Veltliner, Niederösterreich 2011 Burgenland 2009 HHHHH 19 Veltliner, Kremstal DAC 2010 Burgenland 2010 HHHHH 19 Blaufränkisch, Burgenland 2010 Südbahn, Thermenregion 2009 HHHHH 19pts/20 HHHHH 18.5 HHHH 18 £17 (2011) Dynamic Vines £17–£19 Clark Foyster, Harvey Nichols, Slurp HHHH 18 £16.04 Savage Selection An organic blend of 60% Grüner Veltliner and £18–£19 Bacchanalia, Cambridge Wine Nose of sour red cherries, black pepper, £14.85 Clark Foyster, Slurp N/A UK www.weingut-schellmann.at Fragrant notes of roses, green apples and 40% Welschriesling. White flowers and ripe Merchants, D Byrne & Co, Good Glass of Wine, Slurp flowers and flint stone. Crunchy mouthfeel, Vibrant black plums, lavender and a touch of A blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 35% Zweigelt and pebbles. Light-bodied, very pure and a yellow and green apples on the nose. A fresh A riper style of Grüner. Tropical fruit with some agile and focused palate. Remain seated spice on the nose. Again, bright dark fruit on 25% St Laurent. A charmer, with raspberry and lingering finish. Drink: 2012–2015. Alc: 11.5% but textured palate, with layered flavours of herbal and almond notes. Fresh acidity, not though: this is just the entry-level wine. the palate, with firm tannins and a good blueberry notes plus a little ground pepper. fruits, herbs and flowers. Good finish with a super dry, a little weight and stony minerality. Drink: 2012–2017. Alc: 12.5% structure. Drink: 2012–2016. Alc: 13% Lovely palate with a light structure. Drink little bitterness. Drink: 2012–2017. Alc: 12% Drink: 2012–2015. Alc: 13% young. Drink: 2012–2014. Alc: 12.5% Sweet

Johanneshof Reinisch, Schloss Gobelsburg, Gaisberg Tement, Klassik Sauvignon Blanc, Gernot & Heike Heinrich, Zweigelt, Hans Tschida, Muskat Ottonel Heiling, Strassenacker Scheurebe Rotgipfler, Thermenregion 2010 Riesling, Kamptal DAC 2009 Steiermark 2010 HHHH 18 Burgenland 2009 HHHH 17.5 Auslese, Burgenland 2010 Spätlese, Burgenland 2010 HHHH HHHH 18 HHHHH 19 HHHHH 18.5 18 N/A UK www.tement.at £17.99 widely avaialble via agent Liberty Wines £12.70 Astrum £19–£20 Clark Foyster, Slurp Pretty, extrovert bouquet, with yeasty and Showing herbs and red fruit on the nose. Juicy, £12.80 Astrum £13.20 Merry Widows Attractive apple, floral and iodine notes. A dry, Aromas of lemon peel, green peaches and spicy vegetal notes, some green apple and fresh and forward in style, with fine acidity and Elderflower, crushed grapes and ripe peaches. Raspberry, sweet lemon and bush roses on the crisp, light wine with plenty of character from elderflower. This is one of those wines with a herbs, too. Racy, mineral, persistent flavours a hint of green notes on the finish. The crisp acidity keeps it together. Very sexy. nose. Great balance between sweetness and another indigenous Austrian variety. little residual sugar to balance the racy acidity. and a clean finish. I like it! Drink: 2013–2016. Drink: 2012–2014. Alc: 12.5% Drink: 2012–2013. Alc: 9% freshness, with good length and a fresh finish. Drink: 2012–2014. Alc: 12.5 % Just to taste it makes me smile. Alc: 12.5% Well made. Drink: 2012–2013. Alc: 9.5% Drink: 2012–2017. Alc: 13%

18 | Austria 2012 • sponsored guide SPONSORED GUIDE • Austria 2012 | 1 9

AUS_p018-19 experts choice 18 12/04/2012 13:08 AUS_p018-19 experts choice 19 12/04/2012 13:08 sponsoredsPonsored guide

ustrian wine has a lot in common with Left: Austrian wines are the the country’s greatest son, Wolfgang perfect partner for many Amadeus Mozart. As a starting point, Asian dishes, which can both are capable of imparting contain challenging immeasurable pleasure to wine and ingredients, such as chilli. Amusic lover respectively. Another very influential Far left: Don’t assume that characteristic they share is versatility. all whites will work with Mozart, perhaps music’s greatest ever symphonist, fish, warns Ch’ng Poh Tiong was incredibly gifted at coaxing the most unimaginable melodies from every single instrument. Austrian wine, likewise, is a full orchestra of taste and tone: there are thrilling sparkling wines; whites of many guises, ranging from bone dry to richly honeyed; blushing rosés; A fresh and reds of all shades and hues, from bright ruby to ‘Austrian deepest garnet. Whatever their complexion, Austrian wines are wines have blessed with another crucial quality that allows them to match effortlessly with food, particulary Asian cuisine. an inbuilt approach Being from a cool-climate country, the wines have an inbuilt freshness that is part of their inalienable DNA. freshness that Austrian wine and Asian food is a match made in Vivacity from an infant or young Riesling, Grüner Veltliner or Sauvignon Blanc serves as the perfect ‘liquid is part of their heaven, says Ch’ng Poh Tiong. Try Grüner Veltliner handkerchief’ with which to wipe away the grease from with scallops or Zweigelt with pork – just make sure crispy, deep-fried, soft shell crab, spring rolls, prawn inalienable tempura and vegetarian pakoras. Not to mention that you don’t drink a red wine with sea urchins... these salivating whites are also perfect served as DNA’ apertifs, with finger food. But while high acidity is a sure winner with deep-fried foods, we need wines with more roundness and evolution for tackling fish and shellfish. head-on collision with freshly shucked oysters. The combustion of flavours that explode in the mouth is Choose carefully unbearable, pratically wounding. (Perhaps the most There is a misconception that all white wines pair with toxic pairing is sea urchin with a full-bodied red... ouch!) all types of seafood. This is not necessarily the case. The second scenario is a ‘happy co-existence’, where Would, for example, scallops or lobster stir-fried in the wine and food don’t clash per se. When we drink spring onion and ginger react in the same way to a frisky one and bite on the other (going back and forth), both Riesling as to a viscous Gewürztraminer? liquid and food retain their original flavours. They do not No, is the answer. The tight acidity of a new-born ever marry; they merely co-exist. This second scenario, Riesling would simply bounce off the seafood in this while not exactly brilliant, is certainly to be preferred dish, while the fragrance of Gewürztraminer would prove relative to a full-blown ‘accident’. too overpowering, even if the texture of the wine was The third scenario is the ideal situation – wine heaven right. Imagine, for example, sitting next to someone at on terra firma. This occurs when wine and food achieve dinner who was dripping in perfume. How would it be a state of ‘blissful marriage’. (I used to just say ‘marriage’, possible to detect or decipher other aromas? until it was pointed out to me that many marriages are The ideal suitor would, instead, be a white of some in fact not especially happy.) evolution – meaning developing or developed, not Wine and food wrap around each other to the primary, fruit, and with an acidity that has become more benefit of both. The sensation is a sum greater than settled. If oak was also involved in the fermentation and/ the components’ original, individual identities. The or subsequent ageing of the wine, those tannins should food unlocks previously hidden flavours in the wine also be softening or, better still, be completely melded and the grape returns the favour, intensifying the into the textural weave of the wine. You should, tastes and textures of the food. accordingly, recruit the services of a mature Grüner Veltliner or Chardonnay, which has already reached the Versatile cuisine secondary or tertiary stage of its evolution. Well aged, While Sichuan food is the most popular cuisine smoothened, complex and rich, without being flabby, within China itself, outside of the Middle Kingdom, they will be seamless with the scallops or lobster. Cantonese or Yue cuisine is the most familiar jet-setter. There are three possible scenarios to consider when In Chinatowns across the world – from London to pairing wine with food. The first is what I call an Montevideo, Vancouver to Sydney – there is a ready ‘accident’. This is a fatal situation that occurs when wine supply of wanton noodles or roast goose or duck. The and food clash irrevocably. So, for example, a full- wonderful thing about Cantonese cuisine’s fowl trump

Photographs:BrownPhotography/GettyImages.com;Steve Porteous/RobertRod bodied,Harding WorldImagery/Corbis ramrod becomes a card is that it’s so very versatile to pair. Whether the skin ➢

20 | Austria 2012 • sponsored guide SPONSORED GUIDE • Austria 2012 | 2 1

AUS_p020-23 food 20 12/04/2012 13:49 AUS_p020-23 food 21 12/04/2012 13:49 sponsored guide

Magandeep Singh Magandeep Singh is India’s first French-qualified sommelier and professional wine taster. He runs a beverage company in India, judges for the Decanter World Wine Awards and is a freelance writer and author. While the aromatic and crisp whites make lovely aperitifs, they are equally adept at being paired with food. Take, for example, the very popular Indian dish, Malai chicken tikka – morsels of succulent chicken, coated with a spice and yoghurt- based marinade, left overnight before being skewered and cooked in a coal–fired oven, or tandoor. The resulting dish is softly spiced and so tender, it can be cut with a spoon. Grüner Veltliner is a great match here, especially as a result of the light peppery note resonating between wine and dish. Smaragd (full-bodied) or Federspiel (classic) styles from Wachau, rich and opulent, are a definite match. But even the lighter versions from Four cardinal rules Weinviertel could probably do the trick just as well. n High-acid whites such as oysters, Jeannie Cho-Lee Mw are great with scallops, prawns Jeannie Cho-Lee MW is Asia’s deep-fried foods, such and, particularly, first Master of Wine and a as soft shell crab, sea urchins. Decanter contributing editor. spring rolls, tempuras, n Tannin, above all Author, critic, consultant and and pakoras. else, is the number educator, she is also founder of n Not all white wines one consideration Asian food and wine matching work with fish and when pairing red website, www.asianpalate.com shellfish. You often wine with food. Don’t I love the linear, crisp flavours need something put raging, angry, of Austrian whites, especially viscous, round and violent tannins in Grüner Veltliner. Because of their freshness and firm acid mid- to full-bodied. front of food. Make backbone, Austrian wines are a wonderful pairing with n Red wines don’t sure they are tamed, many Asian cuisines. I love refreshing Austrian Riesling work with shellfish softened and evolved. is crisp, or softened by its own juice (and the seasoning), Above: The food of Sichuan with steamed dim sum. The lean, floral and lime-infused, goose or duck is just as delicious with a fresh, floral, Recommendations from province is the most popular zesty flavours of Austrian Riesling also work very well fruity, red Zweigelt or one that is more ambitiously our expert panel within China itself. Beyond with the delicate flavours of seafood and vegetables complex (as long as it’s not over-oaked or highly China, it is Cantonese prepared in a light and healthy way. With Grüner, on the Li Demei extracted). An elegant Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir) that’s cuisine that dominates other hand, I enjoy white fish sashimi, especially when Li Demei trained as an oenologist reminiscent of the scents of autumn is also perfect. So Lisa Perrotti-Brown Mw sea salt rather than soy sauce is used for dipping or at ENITA de Bordeaux. He was too a St Laurent, where the sweetness of fruit makes Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW covers seasoning. Avoiding soy sauce allows the texture of the the first chief winemaker at the this variety equally irresistible with food. the wines of Australia and New sashimi and the flavour of wasabi to be fully Chinese-French government Zweigelt, Blauburgunder, St Laurent and Zealand for The Wine Advocate. accentuated, and the white-pepper spiciness of the joint-venture CFM vineyard and Blaufränkisch also pair very well with pork dishes, She received her MW in 2008 and Grüner works beautifully with fresh wasabi. winery. A consultant to six whether stir-fried, braised (where the sauce isn’t too was awarded the Madame in China, Li Demei’s Jia sweetened) or roasted. Indeed, Sichuan’s famous Bollinger Medal for outstanding Bei Lan 2009 Cabernet won ‘twice-cooked pork’ (one of that cuisine’s least spicy performance in the practical Gold, Regional Trophy and International Trophy at the dishes), will happily lap them all up, particularly since (tasting) part of the qualification. Decanter World Wine Awards 2011. He lectures in there is very little sauce in the dish. Not to mention the Perrotti-Brown was also the at the Beijing Agriculture College. legendary lamb specialties of predominantly Muslim winner of the Tim Derouet Award, for her excellent Hunan cuisine’s braised pork (hong shao rou) is oily, Xinjiang Province, the most westerly reaches of the performance across the whole MW examination. sweet and chilli spicy at the same time. With such a ancient Silk Road. Tandoori and biryani, two of India’s My top Austrian wine and Asian food pick has to be whirlwind of flavours, you definitely need something most delicious and least-spiced dishes, are similarly Japanese unagi (eel) paired with a Blaufränkisch or very special. The wine that will rise to the occasion is knee-jerk natural partners for these wines. Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir), depending on how the a Riesling ice wine, one with some age. With its lovely Whatever red you choose – Zweigelt, Blauburgunder, unagi is prepared. Kabayaki unagi is grilled eel with a developed aromas, complex sweetness and high acidity, St Laurent, Blaufränkisch or a Bordeaux blend – the sweetened soy-and-mirin-based glaze and a this late-picked white will be more than a match for overwhelming consideration when matching wine with similarly flavoured sauce. The rich, Hunan braised pork. Riesling ice wine is also sensational food (Chinese, Indian, French, or any other) is the robust flavours and oiliness of this dish with a Chinese dish that is hardly found in the country tannins. If they are primary, fierce, raging and violent, pair wonderfully with the fuller-bodied, itself, but is very popular in Chinese restaurants outside forget about putting them in front of food. On the other fruity/savoury flavours of Blaufränkisch. China. I’m talking about lemon chicken. Sweet and sour hand, if all the components of the wine – fruit, acidity Weninger from Mittelburgenland is Left and above: look for all in the same bite, a dry white would simply surrender. and structure – are harmonised, then it’s all systems go. a producer to be whites with high acidity to Send in a Riesling ice wine, however, and your dinner

Photographs:Linwei/Alamy;Lou JoffStudios/StockFood;Lee Getty Images.com The world of food-and-wine pairing is your oyster. D recommended. match with deep fried dishes will be back on cruise control.

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AUS_p020-23 food 22 12/04/2012 13:50 AUS_p020-23 food 23 12/04/2012 13:50 sponsored guide Vienna: a gourmet guide

From rustic heuriger taverns to Michelin-starred restaurants, bars, shops – and Hermann Nitsch Schüttbild/Sevilla barges – Jason Turner recommends the best places to drink and dine in the capital

Vienna is the only capital city with its own designated wine-growing region, encompassing an impressive 612 hectares of vineyards. The local speciality is Gemischter Satz, a field blend that can be made from up to 22 local and classic grape varieties. Historically, Vienna has been known for its heuriger TASTE taverns that serve jug wines and white-wine spritzers to CULTURE politicians, celebrities and tourists alike, as recorded by poets and playwrights over the past two centuries. The birth of the heuriger came after Emperor Josef II passed a decree in 1784 to enable producers to sell their own food and wine to patrons. The cosy wine-tavern culture continues to flourish in many parts of Vienna, one being the Mayer am Pfarrplatz in Döbling. It is here, in 1817, that Ludwig von Beethoven is said to have composed Wein & Co part of his famous 9th Symphony. The building has changed little since then, with a new interpretation of and being seated beneath the vines in Viennese delicacies, such the spacious garden is the perfect place as vineyard snail croissant for a taste of Viennese wine culture. pastries. High above the Although it may be common to find an waterline is the Danube identical wine from the same producer on Tower Vienna, just a short the wine list of both a leading gourmet tram ride north-east of the restaurant and a rustic heuriger, you’ll city. Built for the 1964 also see a broad variety of all wine styles Mayer am Pfarrplatz international garden show, from the three other major wine growing this iconic structure’s regions (each of which are easily accessible from high-speed elevator zips Vienna): a wide selection of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling Contacts wine lovers up 165m to the from Niederösterreich; Sauvignon Blanc and n Mayer am Pfarrplatz revolving Donauwalzer Welschriesling from Steiermark; and Blaufränkisch and www.pfarrplatz.at Danube Tower Vienna restaurant and a panoramic Zweigelt reds from Burgenland. Sweet Austrian dessert n Steirereck view over Vienna. wines are almost always found in fine-dining restaurants. www.steirereck.at The increased popularity of Austrian wine over the Up until very recently, the trend was to drink Austrian n Silvio Nickol in past 10 years has led to a surge in new wine shops wine very young, and restaurants and wine shops would Palais Coburg – vinothek – such as Porta Dextra and Der Wein. discount older vintages as soon as the new wine arrived. www.coburg.at Traditional merchants and delicatessens, such as Thankfully, this is starting to change, and sommeliers n Holy Moly Vinothek St-Stephan, Böhle and Meinl am Graben, are and retailers (supported by winemakers) are starting to www.badeschiff.at all within minutes of St-Stephan’s Cathedral, and each store their Austrian wines alongside classed growth offer a designated tasting area of a selection of wines, n Danube Tower Vienna Bordeaux and Italian specialities, and listing them once enabling customers to try before they buy. www.donauturm.at they reach maturity. Leading by example are the two A growing number of restaurants and bars now have n Porta Dextra Michelin star restaurants Steirereck and Silvio Nickol in an integrated vinothek, enabling them to legally sell wine www.haas-haas.at Palais Coburg, each boasting an envious supply of some until midnight, thanks to the local hospitality regulations. of Austria’s most prized wines. The six cellars beneath n Der Wein Wein & Co is one such example, and is a must-see wine Palais Coburg are home to more than 60,000 bottles, www.der-wein.at shop, bar and restaurant concept. It is Austria’s largest with guests being able to choose from 5,500 different n Vinothek St-Stephan wine retail chain, with a range of 2,000 wines, and sells Austrian and international wines from the wine list. This www.vinothek1.at about three million bottles a year, with eight shops in is a great way to taste mature Grüner Veltliner and n Böhle Vienna, of which four are a bar or restaurant. Here, Riesling from the superb 1999 and 2001 vintages, and www.boehle.at customers can select any bottle from the adjacent shop, discover how gracefully Blaufränkisch can age. n Meinl am Graben and enjoy it in either the casual wine bar or smart Nearby, Holy Moly is a quirky destination to which to www.meinlamgraben.at restaurant. With opening hours from 10am until 2am, this bring your own bottle. On three levels, this stationary n Wein & Co is the best chance to enjoy your favourite wine, or to try barge moored on the Danube canal offers a pool and www.weinco.at something new, after having visited all the sights and relaxing sun deck, with a disco in the hull. Austrian chef cultural attractions that Vienna has to offer. D „Tradition is the passing on of the fi re, not the worship Christian Petz runs his acclaimed restaurant on the main of the ashes.“ Gustav Mahler deck, just feet above the waterline. For a fixed service Former marketing manager of Wein & Co, Jason Turner is www.austrianwine.com charge, guests can bring their own bottle and drink it a wine writer and educator based in Vienna

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DecanterSupplementNitschAd 1 10.04.12 14:28 AUS_p024 vienna 24 12/04/2012 13:54 AUS_p000 cover 1 12/04/2012 10:12