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Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907)
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 2013 © 2013 BuYun Chen All rights reserved ABSTRACT Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen During the Tang dynasty, an increased capacity for change created a new value system predicated on the accumulation of wealth and the obsolescence of things that is best understood as fashion. Increased wealth among Tang elites was paralleled by a greater investment in clothes, which imbued clothes with new meaning. Intellectuals, who viewed heightened commercial activity and social mobility as symptomatic of an unstable society, found such profound changes in the vestimentary landscape unsettling. For them, a range of troubling developments, including crisis in the central government, deep suspicion of the newly empowered military and professional class, and anxiety about waste and obsolescence were all subsumed under the trope of fashionable dressing. The clamor of these intellectuals about the widespread desire to be “current” reveals the significant space fashion inhabited in the empire – a space that was repeatedly gendered female. This dissertation considers fashion as a system of social practices that is governed by material relations – a system that is also embroiled in the politics of the gendered self and the body. I demonstrate that this notion of fashion is the best way to understand the process through which competition for status and self-identification among elites gradually broke away from the imperial court and its system of official ranks. -
Page References in Italics Refer to Illustrations
INDEX Abattoir Company (Jersey Agassiz , Louis , 121, 435 office of the Supervising PAGEREFERENCES City , N .J.), 541 Airlie , Earl of , 156 - 157 Architect , 437- IN ITALICSREFER TO Abbey , Edwin Austin , Albany Capitol . SeeNew 438 ILLUSTRATIONS. 69 York State Capitol consolidation of , with Academie des Beaux - Albert (Prince Consort of Western Association , Arts (Paris ), 29, 35 England), 394 328 Hunt as member of , Albert Edward (Prince of conventions of 324 , 433 , 435 Wales ), 125 first (1867), 169 Academie Royale d' ArchitectureAldrich , Thomas Bailey, second (1868), 169 (Paris), 28, 95 third (1869), 169 29 , 108 - 109 Alexander II (Czar of ninth (1875), 252, 508 Academie Royale de Russia ), 159, 160 tenth (1876), 255- 256 Peinture et de Alexandria , Egypt , 51 twenty -second (1888), 327 Sculpture (Paris ), 28, All Souls ' Church 29 (Biltmore Village , twenty -third (1889), 327 - 329 Academy of Music Asheville , N .C .), (N .Y . C.), 539 454 - 455 , 548 twenty -fourth (1890), 329 - 330 Adams , Charles Francis , Aliard , Jules , et Fils , 513, 157 523 twenty -fifth (1891), 330 - 331 Adams , Mrs . Charles Allen Library (Pittsfield , Francis , 157 Mass .), 542 twenty -ninth (1895), 453 Adams , Henry , 265, 411 Alma - Tadema , Sir Adams , Mrs . John Lawrence , 295 , 323 early history of , 112- 117 Quincy , 8 Amboise , Chateau of , 49 Adams , Marian Hooper American Academy in first annual reception of (Mrs . Henry Adams ), Rome (1866), 168 265 background of, 438- 439 founding of , 110- 111, Adelbert College (Cleveland founding of , -
The Engineering and Mining Journal 1870-05-24
:.VPY y..T»0 VoL. IX.—No. 2 1.—Third Series.] NEW YORK, TUESDAY, MAY 24, 1870. [Single Copies 10 Cents. Armstrong's Railroad Frog. The genenil plau of this crossing is similar to the others ' The “wear and tear of the permanent way of a railroad” illustrated. The advantages of a rolled steel frog, when com¬ is an expression that may be termed paradoxical. The track pared with a cast one, are greater toughness and even struc¬ or permanent way has too much hard work to perform to be ture ; and being made with one wing rail separated from the anything near “ permanent,” and all that can be done is to tongue and connected with the other rail, the rigidity of the adopt the best and most durable form of metal and other ma¬ solid frog is avoided, and a flexibility given to the whole frog terial for the multifarious appliances which make up the not possessed by that where both the wings are separated from plant of a Railroad Company. the tongue. The illustrations which accompany this article are those of j Where first cost is a consideration, and the ordinary cast Section near Point of Frog, frogs and crossings manufactured by Messrs. Armstrong & Co., : iron frog with a plate of steel riveted on to its face, is to be Messrs. Armstrong’s agent in this country is Mr. W. C. Brinsworth Steel Works, Rotherham, England, and which have | superseded by better material, Messrs. Armstrong have con- Oastleb, 43 Exchange Place, to whom communications on the been patented in this country as well as in Great Britain. -
National Register of Historic Places Received FEB 2 L984 Inventory
NPS Form 10-900 OMB No. 1024-0018 (3-82) Exp. 10-31-84 United States Department of the Interior National Park Service For NPS use only National Register of Historic Places received FEB 2 l984 Inventory—Nomination Form date entered See instructions in How to Complete National Register Forms Type all entries—complete applicable sections____________________________________ 1. Name historic Indianapolis News Building and or common Goodman Jewelers Building 2. Location street & number 30 w - Washington Sti N/A not for publication Indianapolis city, town N/A vicinity of Indiana 018 Marion 097 state code county code 3. Classification Category Ownership Status Present Use district rpublic X occupied agriculture museum X building(s) X private unoccupied X commercial park structure both work in progress educational private residence site Public Acquisition Accessible entertainment religious object in process X yes: restricted government scientific being considered _ yes: unrestricted industrial transportation N/A no military Other: 4. Owner of Property name Goodman Jewelers, Inc. street & number 30 W. Washington Street city, town Indianapolis N/A vicinity of state Indiana 46204 5. Location of Legal Description courthouse, registry of deeds, etc. Marion County Recorder Rm. 721-41 City-County Building street & number 200 E. Washington St. city, town Indianapolis state Indiana 46204 6. Representation in Existing Surveys Survey Report for Indianapolis/Marion County title ______ (See continuation Sheet) has this property been determined eligible? _X-yes no date September 21, 1977 federal state county X local Indianapolis Historic Preservation Commission, depository for survey records R00m 1821, City-County Building, 200 E. Washington St. city, town Indianapolis state Indiana 46204 7. -
Katalog Muzealiów Ze Zbiorów Fundacji Generał Elżbiety Zawackiej
KATALOG MUZEALIÓW ZE ZBIORÓW FUNDACJI GENERAŁ ELŻBIETY ZAWACKIEJ CATALOGUE OF THE COLLECTIONS OF THE FOUNDATION OF GENERAL ELŻBIETA ZAWACKA KOMITET REDAKCYJNY FUNDACJI GENERAŁ ELŻBIETY ZAWACKIEJ THE EDITORIAL BOARD OF THE FOUNDATION OF GENERAL ELŻBIETA ZAWACKA Przewodniczący / Head JAN SZILING Członkowie / Members BOGDAN CHRZANOWSKI, KATARZYNA MINCZYKOWSKA Sekretarz / Secretary SYLWIA GROCHOWINA Publikacja Katalog muzealiów ze zbiorów Fundacji Generał Elżbiety Zawackiej. Archiwum i Muzeum Pomorskie Armii Krajowej oraz Wojskowej Służby Polek finansowana w ramach programu Ministra Nauki i Szkolnictwa Wyższego pod nazwą Narodowy Program Rozwoju Humanistyki w latach 2012–2017 (umowa nr 0052/NPRH2/H11/81/2012) The publication Catalogue of the collections of the Foundation of General Elzbieta Zawacka. The Pomeranian Archive and Museum of the Home Army and the Military Service of Polish Women Financed as part of the program of the Ministry of Science and Higher Education – the National Program for the Development of the Humanities in the years 2012–2017 (contract no. 0052/NPRH2/H11/81/2012) Anna Mikulska, Joanna Mikulska KATALOG MUZEALIÓW ZE ZBIORÓW FUNDACJI GENERAŁ ELŻBIETY ZAWACKIEJ ARCHIWUM I MUZEUM POMORSKIE ARMII KRAJOWEJ ORAZ WOJSKOWEJ SŁUŻBY POLEK Catalogue of the collections of the Foundation of General Elżbieta Zawacka The Pomeranian Archive and Museum of the Home Army and the Military Service of Polish Women pod redakcją Katarzyny Minczykowskiej / edited by Katarzyna Minczykowska Tłumaczenie / Translation AGNIESZKA CHABROS Fundacja Generał Elżbiety Zawackiej Foundation of General Elżbieta Zawacka Toruń 2017 Photographs JOANNA MIKULSKA Publikacje Fundacji Generał Elżbiety Zawackiej recenzują: / The publications of the Foundation of General Elżbieta Zawacka are rewieved by: prof. dr hab. Grzegorz Berendt, prof. dr hab. Józef Borzyszkowski, prof. -
The Daguerreian Society Quarterly
THE DAGUERREIAN SOCIETY QUARTERLY Vol. 27 January – March 2015 No. 1 Dedicated to the History, Science, and Art of the Daguerreian Era Amadeo Gras, Gualeguaychú, Entre Ríos province, Argentina. Jacoba Ramiro and Her Brother Francisco Ramiro From the Collection of Carlos Vertanessian i Conservation • Travelogue • Paul Morphy • Member’s Portfolio i $3.50 U.S.D. The President’s Message Jeremy Rowe, President If you’re in the West you’ve probably been able to get out to hunt for images. If you live in the middle of the country, or in the East, you’ve likely been staying inside looking at images by the fireside trying to keep warm between snowstorms. I would like you join me in welcoming our new Board members, Alex Novak and Len Walle, and Michelle Delaney who will continue on the Board and in her service as Board Secretary. I will continue The Daguerreian Society is a 501(c)(3) not–for–profit organization as President, with Jane Aspenwall as Vice President, and Denis O. incorporated in 1988. Williams will continue as Treasurer. I would like to offer my thanks ISSN# 1072–8600. to the two Board members rotating off of the Board—Sally Anyan and Greg French—for their time, commitment, and service to the Officers and Board Members for 2015 Society. Greg will continue to chair the Auction committee, which Matthew Isenburg, Chairman of the Board Emeritus provides invaluable contributions to the Society each year. Jeremy Rowe, President We have signed the contract with the Pasadena Hilton to be our Jane Aspinwall, Vice President conference hotel for the 2015 Symposium, and we are working on Michelle Delaney, Secretary visits to the J. -
Graphic Materials: Rules for Describing Original Items and Historical Collections
GRAPHIC MATERIALS Rules for Describing Original Items and Historical Collections compiled by Elisabeth W. Betz Library of Congress, Washington, D.C., 1982 WordPerfect version 6/7/8 (July 2000; with MARC21 tagging added March 2002) With cumulated updates: 1982-1996 and List of areas to update for second edition: 1997-2000 Cover illustration: "Sculptor. Der Formschneider." Woodcut by Jost Amman in Hartmann Schopper's Panoplia, omnium illiberalium mechanicarum aut sedentariarum artium genera continens, printed at Frankfurt am Main by S. Feyerabent, 1568. Rosenwald Collection, Rare Book and Special Collections Division. (Neg. no. LC-USZ62-44613) TABLE OF CONTENTS Graphic Materials (1996-1997 Updates)...................p. i Issues to consider for second edition (1997-2000).......p. iii Preface.................................................p. 1 Introduction............................................p. 3 0. General Rules........................................p. 8 0A. Scope.............................................p. 8 0B. Sources of information............................p. 9 0C. Punctuation.......................................p. 10 0D. Levels of description.............................p. 12 0E. Language and script of the description............p. 13 0F. Inaccuracies......................................p. 14 0G. Accents and other diacritical marks (including capitalization)..................................p. 14 0H. Abbreviations, initials, etc......................p. 14 0J. Interpolations....................................p. 15 1. -
Portland Daily Press: September 19,1873
PORTLAND DAILY PRESS. ESTABLISHED JUNE 23, 1862. YOL. 12. FRIDAY MORNING, _PORTLAND SEPTEMBER IP, 1873. TERMS $8.00 PER ANNUM IN ADVANCE. 1 IHF PORTLAND DAILY PRESS REAL ESTATE. TO Gouldn t WANTS, LOST, FOUND. LEI. business directory. ISCEJJLAJN EO U S. Gome It.—A correspondent of Published every day (Suudays excepted) by the THE PRESS/ _M tlie Detroit Free Prune h .s a poor idea of portlani* i‘i kms)ii\(; to., Country Coiasjo for Sale. Wanted. To Lot. Agency for Sewing Machines. Chicago people. He says: on IV. W. THE tIIDAT lOlNING, SEPT. 19. 187S five rooms in CAPABLE rl to A NEW Store Atlantic near St., and l»YEIt, No. Hi Middle St. All NATIONAL SPRING BED. at 109 poktland. containing g<*od order, Ell- g do general housework. Ap- '"(ingress I was sitting in the office of the hotel Exchange St. xA Horse can. Suitable for a Shoe Stnie or ihm-y binds of HOUSEWoodhouse amt Stable connected; one ana o- e A plrt at 223 Cumberland street Machines for sale aad to let. the and domestic yoods or Gnxe its. AnnlvtoS. A. watching evening shadow* as they -ilent- Tsums- Eight Dollar* a Ve»> in advance To ! fifth acres yra*>s land, garden and fruit trees, very se18*3t Immediately. Repairing. and healt ANDEttSON, No. 37 St. Lawrence St. Gossip and matsbaled tiieir hosts to the mail subseribeis Seven Dollars a Year If in ad- Li ill airy hy location, commanding beautiful (.leanings. ly imprison paid mar26<1 Iw then eodi t vanee. views of country and mountains; 13 miles Iroui th Bakers. -
Charles A. Whitaker Auction Company April 22-23, 2011
Charles A. Whitaker Auction Company April 22-23, 2011 1 THREE ROOSTER BUTTONS. All large stamped brass: 2-piece with fine detail, steel back, self shank, 1 11/16. High relief head with foliate border, steel back (rusted), loop shank, 1 1/2. 1- piece convex brass with applied high relief rooster, 1 1/2. Good-excellent. $36.00 2 TWO LARGE INDIAN THEME BRASS BUTTONS. "Indian Hunter", 2-piece stamped and tinted, based on painting by Bejamin West "The Death of General Wolf". 2 inches. (Minor wear) very good. Extra large Indian head profile stamped in relief on a flat disc. 1 15/16. Excellent. $48.00 3 FIVE TEDDY ROOSEVELT HUNTING BIG GAME BUTTONS. Medium 1-piece stamped brass, one lion, two rhinoceros, two elephant. 1 1/8. Excellent. $108.00 4 FOUR ENAMELED BUTTONS with CUT STEELS. All large: Three 1-piece including two pierced. One mounted on a pearl disc with raised edge. 1 1/4 - 1 1/2. (Some oxidized steels) good-excellent. $60.00 5 TWO LARGE BUTTONS with DOGS. Wood high relief terrier head with glass eye within stamped and pierced brass border mounted on wooden disc, 1 3/4, (tiny rim chip). 1-piece flat brass button with cut steel and stamped geometric border having dog and doghouse escutcheon with cut steels. 1 9/16. Excellent. $132.00 6 TEN ENAMELED BRASS BUTTONS. Medium and large 1-piece consisting of four pair and a pierced set of four. 1 3/16 - 1 5/16. Excellent. $84.00 7 TWO FIGURAL STAMPED and PIERCED BRASS BUTTONS. -
MY BERKSHIRE B Y
MY BERKSHIRE b y Eleanor F . Grose OLA-^cr^- (\"1S MY BERKSHIRE Childhood Recollections written for my children and grandchildren by Eleanor F. Grose POSTSCIPT AND PREFACE Instead of a preface to my story, I am writing a postscript to put at the beginning! In that way I fulfill a feeling that I have, that now that I have finished looking back on my life, I am begin' ning again with you! I want to tell you all what a good and satisfying time I have had writing this long letter to you about my childhood. If it hadn’t been for you, I wouldn’t have had the fun of thinking about and remembering and trying to make clear the personalities of my father and mother and making them integrated persons in some kind of perspective for myself as well as for you—and I have en joyed it all very much. I know that I will have had the most fun out of it, but I don’t begrudge you the little you will get! It has given me a very warm and happy feeling to hear from old friends and relatives who love Berkshire, and to add their pleasant memo ries to mine. But the really deep pleasure I have had is in linking my long- ago childhood, in a kind of a mystic way, in my mind, with you and your future. I feel as if I were going on with you. In spite of looking back so happily to old days, I find, as I think about it, that ever since I met Baba and then came to know, as grown-ups, my three dear splendid children and their children, I have been looking into the future just as happily, if not more so, as, this win ter, I have been looking into the past. -
Arneson Auction Service EST 1937 " 77Th Year " Jim Arneson Registered Wisconsin Auctioneer #836 Neillsville ~ 715-819-2689 Sparta ~ 608-797-5086
Arneson Auction Service EST 1937 " 77th Year " Jim Arneson Registered Wisconsin Auctioneer #836 Neillsville ~ 715-819-2689 Sparta ~ 608-797-5086 Collection of Dolls & Antiques/Collectibles Saturday February 15th ~~ Start 10:00 am ~~ DeForest, WI Held at: The Comfort Inn 5025 Cty Hwy V Dolls and Doll Accessories/Parts for the Serious Collector: Lots of Dolls From The 1890s to The 1980s Most in High Quality Used Conditions & Some with original Clothes; China-Poercelain-Bisque-Composition- Plastic-Vinyl-Cloth Bodys; German Steiff Animals; Smurf Stuffed Toys; Cabbage Patch; Vintage Catholic Nun Dolls; Many Old & New Shirley Temple Dolls; 1960s Vogue Baby Dolls; Effanbee; Horsman; Ideal; Armand Marseilles; Gerber Baby Dolls & Accessories; Mickey Mouse; Many Dolls with Sleep Eyes; Dolls From Danbury Mint; Big Selection of Bradley Girl/Mod Dolls; Effanbee Dy Dee Baby Doll; 1950s "Dennis the Menace" Soft bodied Doll; 1950's Hard Plastic Ideal Saucy Walker Doll; Poor Pitiful Pearl; Little Miss No- Name; 1960's" Whimsie" Doll Hedda Get Bedda; 1930s Grace S. Putman German Bisque Head " Bye-Lo Baby; 1930s & 1940s Composition 'Shirley Temple" Dolls; 1892 "Simon and Halbig" Bisque Doll # 126 26"; Vintage "Lady Kestner" German Bisque Doll with jointed Body. 32 inches; Armand Marseille "Queen Louise" Doll 24 inches; Early 1900's Armand Marseille Life size German Baby Bisque Doll, # 975. 21 inches; Early 1900's Armand Marseille Bisque Socket Head Child Doll 22 inches; many Hats & Caps; Shoes; Clothes; Marx Doll House; Doll House Furniture; Children Tea -
May 14 2009 Pictured
WITHINGTON AUCTION Inc. Dolls at Auction – Pictured Catalog Dolls May 14, 2009 – 10:00AM Holiday Inn, Nashua, NH 1 12 inch bisque incised 1049 S & H, sleep eyes, open mouth with two teeth, pierced ears, BJCB 2 23 inch composition incised Dionne Alexander, sleep eyes, (splattered), open mouth, molded hair, (crazing), cloth body with compo limbs, original tagged dress with Annette Bib 3 30 inch composition Mae Starr Doll, sleep eyes, open mouth, human hair wig, cloth body with compo limbs, (cracked), original dress and underwear, (no records) 4 33 inch bisque incised 1348 Jutta S & H, sleep eyes, open mouth, pierced ears, BJCB 5 16 inch Terri Lee, painted eyes, synthetic wig, original tagged skating outfit 6 Four-piece of tin kitchen set by Henry Katz & Co Inc., “Play House Range, Cabinet, Stove & Sink” 7 14 inch hard plastic “Meg” by Madame Alexander, sleep eyes, original clothes 8 Eight inch Composition Toddles, painted features, mohair wig, original tagged clothes 9 Eight inch Composition Toddles, painted features, mohair wig, original clothes, (not tagged) 10 8 inch Strung Vogue Ginny, sleep eyes, “Frolicking Fables” outfit, with Vogue hang tag 11 16 inch cloth “Alice in Wonderland” by Madame Alexander, painted features, yarn hair, original clothes 12 8 inch Prince Charles by Madame Alexander, sleep eyes, original tagged clothes, (some holes in clothing) 13 15 inch Schoenhut “Miss Dolly”, painted features, mohair wig, original Schoenhut shoes, (some crazing and tiny paint touch ups) 14 Lot of two doll dresses and pink leather shoes