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Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907)
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 2013 © 2013 BuYun Chen All rights reserved ABSTRACT Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen During the Tang dynasty, an increased capacity for change created a new value system predicated on the accumulation of wealth and the obsolescence of things that is best understood as fashion. Increased wealth among Tang elites was paralleled by a greater investment in clothes, which imbued clothes with new meaning. Intellectuals, who viewed heightened commercial activity and social mobility as symptomatic of an unstable society, found such profound changes in the vestimentary landscape unsettling. For them, a range of troubling developments, including crisis in the central government, deep suspicion of the newly empowered military and professional class, and anxiety about waste and obsolescence were all subsumed under the trope of fashionable dressing. The clamor of these intellectuals about the widespread desire to be “current” reveals the significant space fashion inhabited in the empire – a space that was repeatedly gendered female. This dissertation considers fashion as a system of social practices that is governed by material relations – a system that is also embroiled in the politics of the gendered self and the body. I demonstrate that this notion of fashion is the best way to understand the process through which competition for status and self-identification among elites gradually broke away from the imperial court and its system of official ranks. -
CEA LIST's Participation at the CLEF Chic 2013
CEA LIST's participation at the CLEF CHiC 2013 Adrian Popescu CEA, LIST, Vision & Content Engineering Laboratory, Gif sur Ivette, France [email protected] Abstract. For our first participation to the CLEF CHiC Lab, we submitted runs to the mul- tilingual ad-hoc and multilingual semantic enrichment tasks. Given the strong mul- tilingual character of the evaluation corpus, the main objectives of the experiments were to test the efficiency of semantic topic expansion and consolidation based on Explicit Semantic Analysis (ESA) versions in different languages. Another objective was multilingual fusion of results obtained in the different languages of the corpus. ESA was adapted for the 10 languages that are best represented in the Europeana corpus. Wikipedia dumps from March 2012 were used for French and English and from March 2013 for the other languages. One problem that arises when model- ing short documents, such as queries, with classical ESA vectors no information is available whether the concept is related to the entire topic only to a part of it. To overcome this problem, two adaptations of ESA (ESA-C) are Wikipedia concepts that are linked to the highest number of concepts from the original topic. In the ad-hoc task, ESA and ESA-C have two roles: to expand the topic with related con- cepts and to create consolidated topic models which contain the original topic words along with other related keywords. We submitted both monolingual and multilingual runs without topic expansion and using topic expansion and consolidation with clas- sical ESA and ESA-C. The best results are obtained in a multilingual setting with no expansion and ESA-C topic consolidation. -
Katalog Muzealiów Ze Zbiorów Fundacji Generał Elżbiety Zawackiej
KATALOG MUZEALIÓW ZE ZBIORÓW FUNDACJI GENERAŁ ELŻBIETY ZAWACKIEJ CATALOGUE OF THE COLLECTIONS OF THE FOUNDATION OF GENERAL ELŻBIETA ZAWACKA KOMITET REDAKCYJNY FUNDACJI GENERAŁ ELŻBIETY ZAWACKIEJ THE EDITORIAL BOARD OF THE FOUNDATION OF GENERAL ELŻBIETA ZAWACKA Przewodniczący / Head JAN SZILING Członkowie / Members BOGDAN CHRZANOWSKI, KATARZYNA MINCZYKOWSKA Sekretarz / Secretary SYLWIA GROCHOWINA Publikacja Katalog muzealiów ze zbiorów Fundacji Generał Elżbiety Zawackiej. Archiwum i Muzeum Pomorskie Armii Krajowej oraz Wojskowej Służby Polek finansowana w ramach programu Ministra Nauki i Szkolnictwa Wyższego pod nazwą Narodowy Program Rozwoju Humanistyki w latach 2012–2017 (umowa nr 0052/NPRH2/H11/81/2012) The publication Catalogue of the collections of the Foundation of General Elzbieta Zawacka. The Pomeranian Archive and Museum of the Home Army and the Military Service of Polish Women Financed as part of the program of the Ministry of Science and Higher Education – the National Program for the Development of the Humanities in the years 2012–2017 (contract no. 0052/NPRH2/H11/81/2012) Anna Mikulska, Joanna Mikulska KATALOG MUZEALIÓW ZE ZBIORÓW FUNDACJI GENERAŁ ELŻBIETY ZAWACKIEJ ARCHIWUM I MUZEUM POMORSKIE ARMII KRAJOWEJ ORAZ WOJSKOWEJ SŁUŻBY POLEK Catalogue of the collections of the Foundation of General Elżbieta Zawacka The Pomeranian Archive and Museum of the Home Army and the Military Service of Polish Women pod redakcją Katarzyny Minczykowskiej / edited by Katarzyna Minczykowska Tłumaczenie / Translation AGNIESZKA CHABROS Fundacja Generał Elżbiety Zawackiej Foundation of General Elżbieta Zawacka Toruń 2017 Photographs JOANNA MIKULSKA Publikacje Fundacji Generał Elżbiety Zawackiej recenzują: / The publications of the Foundation of General Elżbieta Zawacka are rewieved by: prof. dr hab. Grzegorz Berendt, prof. dr hab. Józef Borzyszkowski, prof. -
Charles A. Whitaker Auction Company April 22-23, 2011
Charles A. Whitaker Auction Company April 22-23, 2011 1 THREE ROOSTER BUTTONS. All large stamped brass: 2-piece with fine detail, steel back, self shank, 1 11/16. High relief head with foliate border, steel back (rusted), loop shank, 1 1/2. 1- piece convex brass with applied high relief rooster, 1 1/2. Good-excellent. $36.00 2 TWO LARGE INDIAN THEME BRASS BUTTONS. "Indian Hunter", 2-piece stamped and tinted, based on painting by Bejamin West "The Death of General Wolf". 2 inches. (Minor wear) very good. Extra large Indian head profile stamped in relief on a flat disc. 1 15/16. Excellent. $48.00 3 FIVE TEDDY ROOSEVELT HUNTING BIG GAME BUTTONS. Medium 1-piece stamped brass, one lion, two rhinoceros, two elephant. 1 1/8. Excellent. $108.00 4 FOUR ENAMELED BUTTONS with CUT STEELS. All large: Three 1-piece including two pierced. One mounted on a pearl disc with raised edge. 1 1/4 - 1 1/2. (Some oxidized steels) good-excellent. $60.00 5 TWO LARGE BUTTONS with DOGS. Wood high relief terrier head with glass eye within stamped and pierced brass border mounted on wooden disc, 1 3/4, (tiny rim chip). 1-piece flat brass button with cut steel and stamped geometric border having dog and doghouse escutcheon with cut steels. 1 9/16. Excellent. $132.00 6 TEN ENAMELED BRASS BUTTONS. Medium and large 1-piece consisting of four pair and a pierced set of four. 1 3/16 - 1 5/16. Excellent. $84.00 7 TWO FIGURAL STAMPED and PIERCED BRASS BUTTONS. -
MY BERKSHIRE B Y
MY BERKSHIRE b y Eleanor F . Grose OLA-^cr^- (\"1S MY BERKSHIRE Childhood Recollections written for my children and grandchildren by Eleanor F. Grose POSTSCIPT AND PREFACE Instead of a preface to my story, I am writing a postscript to put at the beginning! In that way I fulfill a feeling that I have, that now that I have finished looking back on my life, I am begin' ning again with you! I want to tell you all what a good and satisfying time I have had writing this long letter to you about my childhood. If it hadn’t been for you, I wouldn’t have had the fun of thinking about and remembering and trying to make clear the personalities of my father and mother and making them integrated persons in some kind of perspective for myself as well as for you—and I have en joyed it all very much. I know that I will have had the most fun out of it, but I don’t begrudge you the little you will get! It has given me a very warm and happy feeling to hear from old friends and relatives who love Berkshire, and to add their pleasant memo ries to mine. But the really deep pleasure I have had is in linking my long- ago childhood, in a kind of a mystic way, in my mind, with you and your future. I feel as if I were going on with you. In spite of looking back so happily to old days, I find, as I think about it, that ever since I met Baba and then came to know, as grown-ups, my three dear splendid children and their children, I have been looking into the future just as happily, if not more so, as, this win ter, I have been looking into the past. -
Arneson Auction Service EST 1937 " 77Th Year " Jim Arneson Registered Wisconsin Auctioneer #836 Neillsville ~ 715-819-2689 Sparta ~ 608-797-5086
Arneson Auction Service EST 1937 " 77th Year " Jim Arneson Registered Wisconsin Auctioneer #836 Neillsville ~ 715-819-2689 Sparta ~ 608-797-5086 Collection of Dolls & Antiques/Collectibles Saturday February 15th ~~ Start 10:00 am ~~ DeForest, WI Held at: The Comfort Inn 5025 Cty Hwy V Dolls and Doll Accessories/Parts for the Serious Collector: Lots of Dolls From The 1890s to The 1980s Most in High Quality Used Conditions & Some with original Clothes; China-Poercelain-Bisque-Composition- Plastic-Vinyl-Cloth Bodys; German Steiff Animals; Smurf Stuffed Toys; Cabbage Patch; Vintage Catholic Nun Dolls; Many Old & New Shirley Temple Dolls; 1960s Vogue Baby Dolls; Effanbee; Horsman; Ideal; Armand Marseilles; Gerber Baby Dolls & Accessories; Mickey Mouse; Many Dolls with Sleep Eyes; Dolls From Danbury Mint; Big Selection of Bradley Girl/Mod Dolls; Effanbee Dy Dee Baby Doll; 1950s "Dennis the Menace" Soft bodied Doll; 1950's Hard Plastic Ideal Saucy Walker Doll; Poor Pitiful Pearl; Little Miss No- Name; 1960's" Whimsie" Doll Hedda Get Bedda; 1930s Grace S. Putman German Bisque Head " Bye-Lo Baby; 1930s & 1940s Composition 'Shirley Temple" Dolls; 1892 "Simon and Halbig" Bisque Doll # 126 26"; Vintage "Lady Kestner" German Bisque Doll with jointed Body. 32 inches; Armand Marseille "Queen Louise" Doll 24 inches; Early 1900's Armand Marseille Life size German Baby Bisque Doll, # 975. 21 inches; Early 1900's Armand Marseille Bisque Socket Head Child Doll 22 inches; many Hats & Caps; Shoes; Clothes; Marx Doll House; Doll House Furniture; Children Tea -
Teddy Bears & Soft Toys Dolls, Dolls' Houses and Traditional Toys
Hugo Marsh Neil Thomas Forrester (Director) Shuttleworth (Director) (Director) Teddy Bears & Soft Toys Dolls, Dolls’ Houses and Traditional Toys 25th & 26th June 2019 at 11:00 Viewing: 24th June 2019 10:00-16:00 25th June 2019 09:00-16:00 9:00 Morning of each auction Saleroom One, 81 Greenham Business Park, NEWBURY RG19 6HW Telephone: 01635 580595 Fax: 0871 714 6905 [email protected] www.specialauctionservices.com Daniel Agnew Dolls & Teddy Bears Buyers Premium: 17.5% plus Value Added Tax making a total of 21% of the Hammer Price SAS Live Premium: 20% plus Value Added Tax making a total of 24% of the Hammer Price the-saleroom.com Premium: 22.5% plus Value Added Tax making a total of 27% of the Hammer Price Order of Auction Day One Tuesday 25th June 2019 at 11:00 Limited Edition & Collector’s Teddy Bears 1-133 Antique & Vintage Teddy Bears & Soft Toys 134-312 Day Two Wednesday 26th June 2019 at 11:00 Post-war Dolls 313-341 Antique & Vintage Dolls 342-474 Doll’s Accessories 475-528 Dolls’ Houses & Chattels 529- 631 Traditional Toys 632-715 The Bob Bura Puppet Collection 716-746 2 www.specialauctionservices.com Limited Edition & Collector’s Teddy Bears 1. A Steiff limited edition Winnie the Pooh, (20 inches), 2475 of 3500, in original bag, 2004 £60-80 6. A Steiff limited edition Harley 15. A Steiff limited edition Millennium Davidson 100th Anniversary Bear, 3424 of Band, 793 of 2000, musical, in original box 5000, in original box with certificate, 2003 with certificate, 2000 (has been dusty, the (some scuffing to box) £80-120 bears heads could do with a firmer brush, box flattened and worn) £150-200 7. -
The Complete Costume Dictionary
The Complete Costume Dictionary Elizabeth J. Lewandowski The Scarecrow Press, Inc. Lanham • Toronto • Plymouth, UK 2011 Published by Scarecrow Press, Inc. A wholly owned subsidiary of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. 4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200, Lanham, Maryland 20706 http://www.scarecrowpress.com Estover Road, Plymouth PL6 7PY, United Kingdom Copyright © 2011 by Elizabeth J. Lewandowski Unless otherwise noted, all illustrations created by Elizabeth and Dan Lewandowski. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote passages in a review. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Lewandowski, Elizabeth J., 1960– The complete costume dictionary / Elizabeth J. Lewandowski ; illustrations by Dan Lewandowski. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references. ISBN 978-0-8108-4004-1 (cloth : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-0-8108-7785-6 (ebook) 1. Clothing and dress—Dictionaries. I. Title. GT507.L49 2011 391.003—dc22 2010051944 ϱ ™ The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992. Printed in the United States of America For Dan. Without him, I would be a lesser person. It is the fate of those who toil at the lower employments of life, to be rather driven by the fear of evil, than attracted by the prospect of good; to be exposed to censure, without hope of praise; to be disgraced by miscarriage or punished for neglect, where success would have been without applause and diligence without reward. -
Year 70.1 2 by Purchase 70.2 2 Bradford 0. Emerson 70.3 2 Mrs
Year Items Donor 70.1 2 By Purchase 70.2 2 Bradford 0. Emerson 70.3 2 Mrs. Melvin deJager 70.4 6 Mr. & Mrs. Cristy Pettee 70.5 1 Mr. & Mrs. Donald Skelton 70.6 1 T.W. Emerson 70.7 22 Mr. & Frs. Lester Ball 70.8 47 Miss Hazel Stevens 70.9 100 Miss Marjorie B. Scoboria 70.10 21 Mr. & Mrs. Harold Farnum 70.11 1 Michael Farnum 70.12 7 Chelms. Historical Society Study Group 70.13 1 Yrs. Winthrop J. Colson 70.14 9 Mr. & Mrs. Harold Farnum 70.15 8 The Currier Gallery of Art 70.16 1 Atty. Nicholas J. Mazzoni 70.17 1 Charles E. Watt, Sr. 70.18 1 Mr. & Mrs. John J. Carr 70.19 1 Miss Shirley Boyd 70.20 2 Chelms. Hist. Society Study Group 70.21 5 Revolutionary War Bicentennual Comm. 70.22 1 John Perry Richardson 70.23 3 Inst. for Colonial Studies 70.24 1 Mr. & Mrs. Robert Sprague 70.25 1 Christy Pettee 70.26 4 Mrs. Frederick T. Dyke 70.27 1 Anonymous Donor 70.28 11 Mrs. Edward Hoyt 70.29 3 Miss B. Muriel Bridges 70.30 1 Miss Bernice M. Brown 70.31 1 Chelms. Historical Society Study Group 70.32 1 By Purchase 70.33 1 Chelms. Historical Soc. Study Group 70.34 1 Mr. & Mrs. Robert W. Duff 70.35 1 Mr. & Mrs. Frederick Burne 70.36 2 Miss Ruth Howe 70.37 6 Miss Mabel Y. Paignon 70.38 2 Chelms. School Dept. 70.39 10 Mrs. -
1 American Girl Barbie in #1660 Evening Gala. 2 Blonde Bubblecut Barbie in #0872 Cinderella
1 AMERICAN GIRL BARBIE IN #1660 EVENING GALA. 2 BLONDE BUBBLECUT BARBIE IN #0872 CINDERELLA. (2) BARBIES - SKIPPER IN #1911 DAY AT THE FAIR AND TITIAN BUBBLECUT 3 IN #1624 FUN AT THE FAIR. (2) SKIPPERS - #1935 LEARNING TO RIDE AND #1928 RAINY DAY 4 CHECKERS. 5 TITIAN PONYTAIL BARBIE IN #986 SHEATH SENSATION. 6 BRUNETTE CASEY IN TAGGED FRANCIE OUTFIT. 7 TNT IN #1478 SHIFT INTO KNIT. 8 BEND LEG MIDGE IN #931 GARDEN PARTY. 9 MALIBU FRANCIE IN TAGGED OUTFIT. 10 BLONDE CASEY IN #1251 IT'S A DATE. 10A BLYTH DOLL ~ Eyes work, outfit not tagged, doll has been played with. 11 BRUNETTE BUBBLE CUT BARBIE IN #946 DINNER AT EIGHT. 12 (2) SKIPPERS - #1910 SUNNY PASTELS AND #1905 BALLET CLASS. 13 (2) FRANCIES - GROW HAIR AND TNT. 14 (2) FRANCIES INCLUDING #1267 GO, GRANNY, GO. 15 (2) BARBIE FRIENDS - MIDGE AND ALLAN IN TAGGED OUTFITS. (2) BARBIE FRIENDS - RICKY IN #1504 LITTLE LEAGUER AND SKIPPER IN 16 #1901 RED SENSATION. 17 BEND LEG FRANCIE IN #1253 TUCKERED OUT. 18 BLONDE BUBBLE CUT BARBIE IN BLACK AND WHITE SWIMSUIT. 19 BEND LEG FRANCIE IN #1274 ICED BLUE. 20 #6 BLONDE PONYTAIL BARBIE IN #1656 FASHION LUNCHEON. 21 SKOOTER IN ORIGINAL BOX WITH TAG, LINER, STAND, ETC 22 (2) SKIPPER'S - #1918 SHIP AHOY AND #1917 LAND AND SEA. (2) BARBIE FRIENDS - SKIPPER IN #1908 SKATING FUN, SKOOTER IN #1948 23 VELVET-N-LACE. 24 TNT P.J. IN ORIGINAL SWIMSUIT. 25 #5 BRUNETTE PONYTAIL BARBIE IN #0874 ARABIAN NIGHTS. 26 BRUNETTE TNT FLIP HAIR BARBIE IN #1792 MOOD MATTERS. -
1455189355674.Pdf
THE STORYTeller’S THESAURUS FANTASY, HISTORY, AND HORROR JAMES M. WARD AND ANNE K. BROWN Cover by: Peter Bradley LEGAL PAGE: Every effort has been made not to make use of proprietary or copyrighted materi- al. Any mention of actual commercial products in this book does not constitute an endorsement. www.trolllord.com www.chenaultandgraypublishing.com Email:[email protected] Printed in U.S.A © 2013 Chenault & Gray Publishing, LLC. All Rights Reserved. Storyteller’s Thesaurus Trademark of Cheanult & Gray Publishing. All Rights Reserved. Chenault & Gray Publishing, Troll Lord Games logos are Trademark of Chenault & Gray Publishing. All Rights Reserved. TABLE OF CONTENTS THE STORYTeller’S THESAURUS 1 FANTASY, HISTORY, AND HORROR 1 JAMES M. WARD AND ANNE K. BROWN 1 INTRODUCTION 8 WHAT MAKES THIS BOOK DIFFERENT 8 THE STORYTeller’s RESPONSIBILITY: RESEARCH 9 WHAT THIS BOOK DOES NOT CONTAIN 9 A WHISPER OF ENCOURAGEMENT 10 CHAPTER 1: CHARACTER BUILDING 11 GENDER 11 AGE 11 PHYSICAL AttRIBUTES 11 SIZE AND BODY TYPE 11 FACIAL FEATURES 12 HAIR 13 SPECIES 13 PERSONALITY 14 PHOBIAS 15 OCCUPATIONS 17 ADVENTURERS 17 CIVILIANS 18 ORGANIZATIONS 21 CHAPTER 2: CLOTHING 22 STYLES OF DRESS 22 CLOTHING PIECES 22 CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION 24 CHAPTER 3: ARCHITECTURE AND PROPERTY 25 ARCHITECTURAL STYLES AND ELEMENTS 25 BUILDING MATERIALS 26 PROPERTY TYPES 26 SPECIALTY ANATOMY 29 CHAPTER 4: FURNISHINGS 30 CHAPTER 5: EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS 31 ADVENTurer’S GEAR 31 GENERAL EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS 31 2 THE STORYTeller’s Thesaurus KITCHEN EQUIPMENT 35 LINENS 36 MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS -
Garden Dwelling Zoning Hearing
. -ft" THIS WE$K COVERING OF HOIJMDEL, MADI80M "12 iPagfS MAKLHOKO, nlVTAWAN AND ii One Section •MAT A WAN BOXOOCI) Memer Member WEEK. J&Ji'-orl.Vt M ATAWAN, N. J., THURSDAY, JfJLY 12, 1962 Maw Jtrtey Pr«s AwwclatJtm Single Copy Ten Centi Instruction For Borough Children atawan Board Scls \jf Alternate j Malayan Kolarv Club's New President Roulc For Double Running Of Buses Bids On Temporary Routes Also To Sto | In Case New High School Is Not Ready I ' ' , ... i hv,h sd'oiil The lempordrv "B" . M\tav,an Rc«ionit Board of lid j ,,,UIJ ,,,,,,,, ai 3u,|uw'j, stole ami | ucit.or, Fi.day uutiged Ih.' setup ] «„,., ov,.r nutwood Ave RIVIIIH for advertising foi >chool bus routes | Q, jnJ Jilllln st l0 t))l! o)(( m,,i, to the extent "alternate" m«l "tern > ,,|iool 1 im temiiwary ' A" run is I 1 ! portuy routes uie to be m«luded | ., J n,,ie,, i|,e temporal y 'B' tun I in the specifications iilonji with thft ,| | m,|es Aii'hnri/.-d Uops aie ' "basic" route-, uioposcd by the diawbiuUe, Ciuld-u Si diui shoi." . tiui.sponation comrm:tci IUIIP t\ \ (.'oiiLOi'ise flu.leu's Mnio and I 1 Mi old J DoUn, IHU".! prcildciu, I Clilf«ooa Ave and Guidon Si Oiu fotii'd fault wuh the "IMMC" pip o , bus IUIIS two i.ips i s iwl piovldinf; (or double The "A" run on alternate Routr- routing of buses, such as used, in 'I is from Uurli'w's Store to Clifl- Mudhnn Township, til.