Carleton College Spanish Studies in Madrid Faculty Director: Humberto Huergo

Student-to-Student Handbook Fall 2021 Most recently updated by Marko Jurkovich ’21 (Prev: Ian McCarthy ‘20)

Table of Contents Introduction ...... 3 Pre-Departure ...... 4 Money ...... 8 Cell Phone ...... 9 Contacting your Host Family ...... 10 Before Takeoff: A Checklist of Important Stuff To-Do ...... 11 Arriving in Madrid ...... 12 What to Expect from your Host Family ...... 13 Getting to Class ...... 15 Los Monitores ...... 16 Practical Life in Madrid ...... 16 Communication ...... 17 Engagement in Madrid ...... 19 On the Town in Madrid ...... 20 Outside of Madrid ...... 28 Health and Safety ...... 34 Emergency Contacts ...... 36 Medical Emergencies ...... 36 Other Resources ...... 36 Restaurant Guide ...... 37 Back Home ...... 39 Former Group Contacts ...... 39

2 Introduction

Madrid: La Ciudad y el Programa

¡Bienvenidos!

Welcome to the Carleton Spanish Seminar in Madrid for the Fall of 2021! You’re about to spend ten weeks in one of the most wonderful cities in Europe. Madrid is the political and cultural capital of Spain, and this is obvious wherever you look. There is never a lack of something interesting to do, and there is always some new place to explore. By the end of it, you’ll know the streets like the back of your hand and be riding the Metro on autopilot. Madrid is a city where most of the life happens on the streets: in the morning when people sit at cafés reading El País or El Mundo and chatting with their friends, in the afternoon when everyone rushes home from work for lunch, or at night when all the jóvenes flock to the discotecas.

¡Diviértete!

3 Pre-Departure

Passports You’ll need a passport if you don’t have one or if yours has expired. It must be valid for at least six months after the day you return to the States. If you’ll be traveling in Europe until Nov 30th, for example, your passport must be valid until six months after that date, which would be May 30th.

You can find passport info at: http://travel.state.gov/passport/passport_1738.html

If you need a passport, start the process immediately! You CANNOT leave the country without one. Don’t procrastinate, either. An expedited passport takes 3 weeks but costs an additional $60. The normal process usually takes about six weeks.

If you’re on campus, these are your closest options. Passport photos can be taken at all three for $15. • Walgreens • Northfield City Hall 401 5th St. W 801 Washington Street, 2nd Floor Every Day 8am-10pm 2nd & 4th Tuesday each month, 8-10:30am • Rice County Court House Call for an appointment or if you have Faribault 320 NW 3rd Street questions: 507-645-9576. Hours: M-F, 8am-4:00pm

Make a copy of the first page of your passport and keep it in a safe place (it’s a good idea to keep a photo of your passport on your phone too). If your passport gets lost or stolen (it happens every year), it will speed the replacement process tremendously.

Note: Spanish law currently requires that all foreigners carry their original passport at all times. That said, for just brief outings, consider taking a photocopy.

Visas U.S. citizens do not need a visa for this program since it is less than 90 days. If you are an international student, you should check your embassy’s site online for rules and regulations regarding your country.

NOTE: If you plan on staying in Spain or in the Schengen zone for a period longer than 90 days, U.S. citizens will need to get a visa. CARLETON STUDENTS CANNOT OBTAIN A VISA THROUGH CARLETON (by way of a Spanish Embassy) BECAUSE WE ARE NOT ASSOCIATED WITH A SPANISH UNIVERSITY. For more information about the Schengen zone: https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/before-you-go/travelers-with-special- considerations/schengen.html

If you have further questions, talk to OCS, or your faculty director.

Finding a Flight Tickets tend to be more expensive the closer you buy them to your travel date, so book your flight as soon as possible to avoid steep last-minute prices. Travel agents can help find student discounts and special deals, but looking online can also help you find competitive rates. There are hundreds of search engines online, but here are a few to start with:

4 • Google Flights, • Kayak.com o google.com/flights • Omio.com o Easiest interface of any search o Good for intra-Europe travel, engine. Price grid is especially especially with buses and trains. useful. • STATravel.com • Reddit Flights Wiki • StudentUniverse.com o reddit.com/r/travel/wiki/airfare • Skyscanner.com o General guidelines on finding and booking tickets.

When searching for tickets, look for flights into Madrid-Barajas, MAD (now Aeropuerto Adolfo Suárez Madrid-Barajas). In addition to finding the right websites for student discounts, as a general practice buy your tickets early, as prices tend to go up the longer you wait. Be mindful of your layover times, and do not book tight connections on separately purchased tickets.

Note: Using private browsing windows/incognito windows doesn’t show you cheaper airfares. It won’t hurt, but it’s likely a myth that airlines change prices based on your browsing habits. Same goes for browsing on a certain day of a week, time of day, etc.

Things to Consider Before Buying a Ticket

Will you have your travel documents by the time you travel? You MUST have your passport and any necessary visas before you can travel, so give yourself plenty of time in case there are delays in processing or mailing.

Can you coordinate flights with anyone else on the program? Two heads are better than one, especially if they have jetlag and are in a foreign country. As a result, some students might like to fly with other students. Email people who live near you after the final list of participants is announced.

Will you travel before or after the program? You might want to travel before the program or stay after the program to travel. Plan accordingly. Note that airport authorities will not let you travel (on a US passport) unless you have a return or other ticket booked to leave the Schengen Area. Although it is possible to change your departure date, it can be expensive and a hassle. Students who want to travel in Europe, but don’t have a specific plan yet, might want to book their departing flight out of London since tickets from major European cities to London are cheap and easy to find. Similarly, if you want to travel before the program, different cities are cheaper to fly to. It might be helpful to do some investigating. Budget airlines (RyanAir, EasyJet, Wizzair, Vueling, etc.) and railway companies are an excellent resource when traveling from country to country. Read the fine print and be careful booking your luggage correctly and printing boarding passes to avoid ridiculous fees by some airlines! Buses are also a cheap option for travel anywhere within the Spain or even to nearby countries.

Travel Insurance You might consider travel insurance to cover things like your laptop, camera, even flight stuff. Check online. You can also ask the OCS office.

5 What to Bring

Luggage The less you bring the better! Pack efficiently and thoroughly. An internal frame backpack works well. Limit yourself to one suitcase and one backpack. Note: many flights between European countries have a weight limit of 20 kg per bag (about 40 lb.). Be sure you can carry your own luggage. Remember, you can easily buy anything you’ve forgotten in Madrid, so don’t turn packing into a life or death situation. Shopping for clothing and toiletries in a foreign country can be a valuable cultural experience.

You may acquire more stuff! Consider packing a smaller suitcase or duffel within your larger one to fill with any new possessions.

If you plan on traveling in Europe after, being able to carry-on all your luggage is major boon that will save you time and money.

Clothing The less clothing you have, the easier it will be to keep track of what you’ve brought. Balance is the key.

The weather in Madrid during the fall can vary. PACK LAYERS. Excursions to the south of Spain (think Granada or Seville) will be much warmer, whereas travel in the north (think Galicia or Barcelona) will be chillier and rainier. The first half of the term will remain summery in Madrid with weather in the 80s or even 90s. Beware: Fall does set in and can come as early as 4th or 5th week. The temperature will decrease throughout the term and by late November, it may be as low as 30- 40ºF with cold winds. A warm coat is necessary; even gloves and a scarf can be practical. Side note: madrileños love scarves. Madrileños also swear that it never rains more than one or two days in a row, but you may find it to be rainy towards the end of the program.

European style is dressier than here. To fit in, think sharp, fitted clothes. Styles and trends may vary from year to year; you’ll get a good idea of what’s popular or the norm after being in Madrid for a short time. Don’t worry though, you will find all types of styles in the city. Dark and neutral tones are most common.

Pack things you are comfortable wearing and be sure to have a couple pairs of comfortable walking shoes because you will be using the Metro daily and walking the city streets a lot! People tend to dress up when going out to dinner or discotecas, so pack a nice outfit or two (for guys this means a nice pair of jeans with a polo or button-down shirt; for the ladies, a fun dress or nice pants and a dressy shirt will do). Men and women: some dance clubs will not let you in if you are wearing tennis shoes. Wear dress shoes.

A sample suitcase

• 1.5-2 weeks’ worth of socks and • 1 lighter jacket, fleece, or hoodie underwear • A pair of casual-dressy and comfy of shoes • 4-5 long sleeve shirts 1-2 more stylish pieces • 5-6 short sleeve shirts • Rain gear (an umbrella or rain jacket) • 2-3 pairs of pants • 1 warmer jacket/coat (This may look closer to the bare bones than extravagant living, but it is wiser to under-pack than to over-pack)

6 School supplies • Books for classes - You’ll get a big book on your first or second day (it’s not as scary as it sounds). Also, some profs will give you a list of recommended books that you can purchase at the school bookstore.

• Dictionary - A good Spanish-English dictionary or an app (SpanishDict, WordRef, etc.) is recommended for papers, readings, and every day vocabulary questions. Be warned that data restrictions can hinder application use, but you can download Spanish-English dictionaries onto your phone using some apps such as Google Translate (only suggested for basic translations). A Spanish- Spanish dictionary can also be helpful but can be more cheaply purchased in Madrid.

• School supplies (notebooks and pens, etc.) - Easily found at local papelerías and are not necessary to bring.

• Laptop – You will want your laptop, but take good care of it. Having a laptop is critical for homework and it makes it easier to Skype with family and friends: homesickness is normal at first, and this can really ease the symptoms. When you don’t need your laptop, you can leave it at your host family’s home for safekeeping.

If you plan to travel after the program, you’ll need to be extra careful. It is a good idea to bring a couple of locks if you plan to stay in hostels. You could consider getting a cheaper, inexpensive laptop for the trip, if you don’t want to risk bringing your good laptop.

The small stuff While Madrid isn’t the most expensive city in Europe, costs can add up when shopping. It is cheaper and easier to bring items like contact solution and medications with you. A Swiss Army knife is handy to have, with a corkscrew for opening wine bottles and a knife to cut cheese, etc. Pack it in your suitcase, not your carry-on, to avoid problems when going through airport security.

Some useful/fun items: • Ladies – a small purse that goes across your shoulder • Gentlemen – don’t doubt the power of the satchel (or buy a riñonera- yes, fanny packs can be stylish)! They’re more common in Spain than you would think, and they really come in handy. • Small luggage locks for your backpacks, camera bags, etc. • Small note pad to keep in your purse/pocket. For your diario in Humberto’s class, you’ll need to jot down words, quotes, locations, and ideas you encounter as you explore Madrid • A plug adapter for laptop and phone chargers: European to US adapter, NOT a converter. You don’t need a converter for most electronics, but leave your hairdryer or anything else that uses a lot of power (more than 300W) at home. • Frisbee. Duh. If you have room. It’s fun to have at a park, and if it’s a Carleton one, a great idea to leave with your host family or one of the monitores (explained later). • Photos – on your laptop or phone of your family so you can show your host family • Gift – for your host family (optional, discussed later, see below) • A USB flash drive – Yes, they still use these in Spain. They are a small thing to pack and can reduce the hassle of printing significantly.

7

Guidebooks • Lonely Planet Guides App: A great on-the-go resource that has information on top sites, restaurants, and history. Its map feature is one of a kind and can help you find spots and stories not revealed by simple Google searches. A subscription lets you access guides for any city. o Lonely Planet paper guidebooks are also solid if you’re looking for one that has an emphasis on history and pretty photos. • Let’s Go! Spain and Portugal is the bible for all students on the program. You don’t have to buy the book, it’s available online! It’s written and annually updated by college students like ourselves, who are paid to travel extensively to find the best deals, the easiest ways to get around, and the coolest places to visit or hang out. • Rick Steves Spain: A popular, regularly updated, and comprehensive guidebook. • Insight Guide Spain is also good.

If you want a physical copy, go in on it with other students and buy a few different guides to share and compare info. Guidebooks aren’t much cheaper in Europe than they are in the U.S., so the only advantage to buying in Europe is that you don’t have to carry it from the U.S.

Good Maps • If you have a smartphone: o Google Maps – Download an offline map of the city on google maps. Go to offline maps, personalized map, and select the region which you would like to download. The app can recognize your current location via GPS without using data. • Also handy for mapping out want-to-visit or frequently visited sites in lists. Helps you know nearby places you’ve been meaning to go. o Moovit – Popular public transit app, with real-time info. Often smarter than Google Maps when it comes to the metro and buses. o Citymapper – Similar to Moovit. Also better than Google Maps for routing, real-time info. o Madrid Metro — Basic, but helps with getting familiar with metro routes o Ulmon Madrid Travel Guide –Google Maps alternative with offline mode. Allows you to search for and save destinations you are interested in visiting. • Madrid Metro Map – Useful for moving about the city and planning out trips. • Hard copy maps: o Streetwise Madrid – it’s small, coated, can easily fit in purse or bag. Streetwise Madrid and guidebooks are readily available at many U.S. bookstores.

Money

Euros Check your bank or Google for current exchange rates. If getting euros in the U.S. prior to departure, you might not get great exchange rates. It’s easiest just to make a withdrawal from an airport ATM when you arrive. You will use cash (“efectivo”) when shopping at small shops (it’s more polite), at markets, or when splitting bills among friends for food or drinks, so cash is a necessity. You will be more carrying more coins than you are accustomed to while in Europe. Think of how you might want to carry them and be strategic about breaking large bills.

8 Credit cards Plastic is universal and offers great exchange rates. Some banks have cards that accrue no foreign transaction rates. This can be worth looking into to help you avoid unnecessary charges. If possible, have two cards, one to use and one for backup. Keep that latter safely at your host family’s house. Make a copy of the front and back of your card(s). Keep the copy in a safe place and have the phone number handy in case you lose your card and need to call your bank. Most ATMs and shops will ask you if you want to be charged in Euros or your own currency. Say Euros—it will save you a lot of money and avoid conversion charges!

ATM/Debit cards Most ATMs in Europe will accept your card but you should check with your bank if your ATM is good for Europe, to find out if it charges more for overseas transactions, and anything else that might be good know. Also, you should let them know when you’ll be in Europe and traveling about, using your ATM card, maybe credit card, otherwise the bank might freeze your card for suspected fraudulent activity. Consider withdrawing larger sums less often and keeping some of it tucked away somewhere safe. Despite fees, ATM cards are still the best way to get cash. Check the ATMs you use in General Guide. Fees vary. Madrid! Some, like Santander, will charge you $5 every time, while others hardly charge anything (Deutsche Bank is one of the lowest-fee ATMs, and BBVA isn’t bad). Remember to choose to be charged in Euros! Source: bit.ly/3dV4EK Budget Carleton supplies a stipend for lunch during the week, cultural activities, Metro passes, and internet use, but it is good to have a comfortable sum as a survival allowance. That said, the Carleton stipend will cover most everything you need and more to enjoy the city. Give yourself a weekly allowance, but don’t try to be frugal or save money for after the program; it’s there for you to spend on your experience and you’ll miss out if you’re too careful. Madrid can be more expensive than a typical term at Carleton, and you’ll want to bring back souvenirs and gifts, so don’t be conservative when estimating how much to save up. Also consider any travel you plan on doing during the term (day or weekend excursions) and before or after the program. Students on the program before have suggested having anywhere from $500-1500 on hand for the term; however, if you plan on traveling outside of the program it would be better to have more available for lodging, transportation, food, etc.—these can add up without the Carleton stipend.

☆ Spend your designated Cultural Activities money: you don’t get the leftover money if you don’t use it! ☆

Cell Phone

Some students may find it easier to get an international plan with their US carrier, but most opt to get a SIM card and cell plan in Spain (bring a Ziploc/Envelope to keep your US one safe and secure). Before you leave, contact your current cell phone carrier to check if your phone is unlocked. You can buy an active card at one of the many stores/stands where they sell 30-day plans for a variety of reliable phone carriers. Orange, Movistar, and Vodafone are the biggest three. If you have questions, ask the monitores

9 where to look. You can get a prepaid plan with cheap rates for data, text, and calling. It is recommended to go in a group, so everyone has similar plans and can work out the kinks together.

SMS/call needs will be minimal, as you’ll be using WhatsApp for most communication, but it is still required that you have a text and phone plan for emergency purposes. You might have to get used to rationing data more than usual, but many plans give free data for WhatsApp and Google Maps. Navigating data usage on your carrier’s site can also be clunky, so figure out how to track data usage (i.e. reset stats when your plan renews each month) on your phone’s settings.

While struggling with Orange/Movistar/Vodafone is a rite of passage, it doesn’t have to be inevitable. Make sure you know how to renew your plan after first setting it up. • If you use Orange, you can view/change your plan by logging in on Orange.es (under “soy cliente”). There’s a separate website for adding funds with foreign credit cards: topup.orange.com. Make sure you type in the correct phone number!

See section Communication for more detail.

Contacting your Host Family

Send an email/letter Your family will be expecting a letter or email from you at least a week or two prior to your arrival. Remember that they are as excited to find out about you as you are to learn about them. Don’t be daunted by having to write in Spanish–your family knows that you are coming to study in Spain to improve your Spanish and will be excited to receive the message regardless of how it is written. In the letter, you might want to include an introduction about yourself, some of your interests/hobbies, information about where you are from and what you are studying at Carleton, etc. Be sure to let your family know when you will be arriving and how you will be getting to their house. You might want to clarify any details that you think are important for them to know about you (i.e., food preferences or allergies). Enclosing a current photo can be a fun as well. Don’t forget to add your contact information for where you will be staying before you leave for Madrid. Your family may want to call, email, or write back, so include your snail mail, email address, and phone number.

In addition to an address, the OCS office will give you the phone number for your family. It may be nice to give them a call to make sure they received your letter and to clarify your arrival plans. This may be a little intimidating, but it will be much appreciated and can also help you mentally prepare a bit more for departure!

Should I bring gifts? You may want to bring a little something along for your family, but don’t feel obligated. Families usually like getting things that are from the U.S., Carleton, or your hometown. Picking out something you’d like to share with them can be special and doesn’t need to be expensive or hard to carry on the plane. One good idea is to bring the ingredients to prepare a simple dish that you enjoy to share with your family. Or, share something special to you, maybe a gift unique to your hometown. This could be a good conversation starter! And if your family has children, candy always goes over well and is easy to pack.

10 Before Takeoff: A Checklist of Important Stuff To-Do

o Change address If you receive hardcopy bank statements, credit card bills, and other important mail at Carleton, inform your bank, etc., and change the address. The post office will forward important mail to your parents’ house, but that means more delays, so take care of this ahead of time.

o Find a room-draw proxy This is the person who will find you a home for when you get back winter term. Don’t choose a friend based on how fun they are—ask your most responsible pal. Be sure they have your email address and other ways to contact you.

o Find a course registration proxy (optional) Web Registration should mean you won’t need a proxy for choosing classes, but with time differences it could be a good thing to have as a backup. Considering the time difference between Madrid and Northfield, you might have to get up earlier than usual to get the classes you want. Talk to the Registrar’s office, Res Life, and OCS to make sure you’re familiar with both room and course registration processes.

o Pay your bills Sign your loan checks, pay your phone bill, and do everything so that your proxy will be able to register for you—rather than sending them on endless trips to the Business Office vouching for your good intentions.

o Talk to your bank. About ATM/Credit Card usage and being out of the country, as indicated above. Address change.

o Make copies! • Passport - Make multiple photocopies and keep them separate from each other and the original. Also copy your birth certificate and driver’s license. It may seem extreme, but these things will come in handy if anything gets lost or stolen. Leave a set of copies with your family back home. • Credit card - copy both sides of your credit card, write down your account numbers and expiration dates, and contact information for your cards and bank. Leave a set with your folks back home and keep a copy at your host family’s house. • Insurance info – write down your insurance policy number and contact info. You’ll have CISI through Carleton, but your usual insurance is good info to have, too. • Consider taking pictures of your passport(s), identification, and insurance information to have on your phone.

o How well did you pack? Can you lift your bags? Is everything secure? Could you walk several blocks? Are your passport and tickets handy? If the answer is no, fix these problems before leaving.

o Do you know where you are going? Know your itinerary. Keep your plane tickets in an envelope with your flight numbers and exact departure times written on the outside. Check this the day before you leave and the day you leave. Don’t forget to consider time changes, especially if you have layovers.

11 Allow ample time to find your gates, especially during layovers. Remember that you must check in early for international flights (usually two hours or so ahead of time depending on the airline). Most airports have maps on their websites, so it is easy to get a lay of the land. Plus, so many people speak English that someone can help you if needed. And very important: be aware of new airline and airport safety regulations.

o Are you legal? You would be amazed at how many things can hold up a line, both when boarding a plane in the U.S. and at customs on the other side. • Have your passport and tickets ready at all times. • Make sure you aren’t carrying firearms, flammable materials, meat, produce, large containers of liquid, sharp objects, blades, drugs, or drug paraphernalia. • Do not make any jokes with the customs/security officers about bombs/guns/etc. They’ll definitely search you if you do. And that delay could cost you your flight.

Arriving in Madrid

A note about jetlag: Jetlag is your body’s response to rapid changes in time zones. Because you’re taken out of your normal patterns of day and night, rhythmic activities like eating and sleeping are disturbed. You might need a day of recovery for each time zone crossed.

You can minimize jetlag through prevention. Drink plenty of water, exercise lightly before and after flight, avoid alcohol and caffeine, and get plenty of rest. As soon as you get to Madrid, adopt the local times for meals and avoid sleeping during the day (except maybe a little siesta). Nap no longer than two hours and try to go to bed at an early but reasonable time, say, after 9:30pm, if possible. I mean you’ll probably want to get out on the town at 9:30 anyways :)

Getting from airport to your host family’s house First of all, remember that this is the hardest part of the trip. It will only get easier from here.

The airport name is Adolfo Suárez Madrid-Barajas or simply Barajas. Code: MAD

The cheapest and easiest way to get from the airport to your host family’s home is by metro. Before departure, use an online map service such as Google maps to figure out what your closest metro stop is (it should be within a few blocks of your home). You can take the airport metro line anywhere in the city. Metro tickets cost 3-5 euros, depending on the zone. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the Metro map before landing in Madrid. Have an action plan of what you will do once you have landed.

Another option is to take a taxi. As of January 2014, the fixed fare between the airport and anywhere in downtown Madrid is 30€ (around $42), including supplements. They cannot charge you over 30€! Also note that, unlike the custom in the States, tipping is not a common practice in Spain. It may be hard to get used to, but you don’t have to feel obligated to tip taxi or shuttle drivers like you would back home. It is fine to give a little extra (1€), or to round up to the nearest euro, but it isn’t a cultural norm as it is in the U.S. If you’re terrified about navigating the Metro and do not have any experience with using urban transport systems, however, biting the bullet on this one may be the best option for you, especially because you will likely be very exhausted and emotional after your flight.

For more information about the airport, including transport and access, go to http://www.aena.es/csee/Satellite/Aeropuerto-Madrid-Barajas/en/Home.html.

12 Meeting your family The family stay is an incredible opportunity to build lasting friendships with some wonderful new people, greatly improve your Spanish, and learn about Spanish culture first-hand. For some, however, the family stay may feel like nothing more than a means to food and shelter. Family stay experiences are as varied as the families themselves.

When you first arrive at your family’s apartment, they will great you with los dos besos as is customary in Spain. Everyone will give you a kiss on each cheek, and you should do the same. (Men don’t usually give each other los dos besos, but a firm handshake is always appropriate.) Your family will probably know that you’ll be exhausted and after some introductory talk, they will let you unpack and get settled in your room.

Your host family will want to hear all about you and your trip, your family at home, what you study, etc. Consider having photos to share with when you arrive. This can be a good way to connect without having to talk too much. Also, if you feel comfortable, leaving your door open is an inviting way to welcome conversation and be more available to your family. Generally, the more you open up to them, the more they will welcome you into the family. Don’t be afraid to ask questions, be assertive about what you want, or say you don’t understand. Remember, they’ve just let a stranger into their home. The more you assure them early on that you’re a normal, wonderful person, the easier it will be in the long run.

Finally, when you arrive, call Humberto and let him know you got in safely. He will also tell you if the group will be meeting at any time before class starts and how to get to class from your house (beware of the Vuelta a España cycling race. Some main streets get closed). This is one time where it would be okay to use your family’s phone. Otherwise, try to make calls outside of the house because they are expensive. Payphones, or cabinas, are around the city—ask your host-family where the closest one to your home is located. Your family back home would also appreciate a call to know you arrived and are okay. If you have your laptop, you can try pricing international calls with Skype and Google Voice (you can use them to call cell phones and landlines for under 10 cents/minute, but service can be spotty), but Facebook messenger is a great free option to call, videocall or message with your family on Wifi. Also, if you and your parents use iMessage, you can use Wifi throughout the program to effectively communicate with them.

Give it time / communicate A little awkwardness is normal at the beginning of the family stay so don’t expect to feel at home right away. After a week, if things seem wrong, you think your family is not honoring their contract with the college, or if you’re not comfortable with your family, talk to Humberto. If problems don’t improve after a week or two, it’s likely they won’t change drastically during the rest of your stay. You can switch families relatively easily, so don’t hesitate if you’re unhappy—after all, you’re only in Spain for 10 weeks, and you should feel comfortable where you are.

What to Expect from your Host Family

Your rights While staying with your host family you have the privilege of being a part of a family, but at the same time you are also a paying guest. This means your family will expect certain things from you, but you also have the right to expect certain things of them. Your Carleton room and board will be used to pay the family to provide you with your own room in the house, two meals a day (three on weekends), and

13 laundry. If any of your accommodations are less than desirable, talk with Humberto and he will work things out, and it is better if you do it at the beginning of the program rather than waiting too long.

Manners As a guest in the house, you should be aware of your behaviors and how they affect your family. Be sure to keep your room clean and help out around the house. It is important to insist on helping because your madre will probably not let you lift a finger. Electricity and water bills are much higher in Spain, so turn lights off and take reasonably timed showers.

Meal times In Spain, mealtimes are a bit different from our traditional morning breakfast, noon lunch, and early evening dinner. This may take some getting used to, but soon you’ll find it perfect for a student’s lifestyle. Because you will have a stipend to eat one meal a day outside of the home (typically lunch), be sure to discuss meal plans with your family so they will know when to expect you for a meal. When eating with your host family be honest about which food you do and don’t like at the beginning of the program. If your host family asks you how you like a dish and you don’t like it say so or they will continue to serve you it.

Breakfast: it’s usually light. You’ll eat before going to class on weekdays (between 8 and 9 AM), and late morning or whenever you wake up on weekends. If you need to eat more often, it is great to bring or buy a snack between classes to survive the wait until lunch. The cafeteria has some cheap options that aren’t bad, especially for a quick breakfast—but you’ll want to be eating at restaurants more often than the Complu.

Lunch: served during the siesta period, typically between 2 and 4 PM any day of the week. It is often the main meal of the day. You’ll usually go somewhere with friends after class to eat and it is an incredible bonding opportunity in which students may talk about their experiences, practice their language skills, vent, and go explore the city. Lunch can last anywhere from one to three hours, depending on the restaurant, so enjoy it!

Dinner: a lighter fare, served between 9 and 10 PM.

Phone and/or computer use Always ask before using the phone at your host family’s home. When you make calls, whether local or long distance, be sure to use a phone card. If you are unsure of how the charges work on the cards, ask your family to look at the card and its “toll free” number with you—some companies charge a connection fee that will show up on your family’s phone bill. Try to find a phone card that eliminates that hassle. Also, be sure to limit your calls to a reasonable length and don’t drive your family crazy intercepting calls from your family and friends. If you need to have a long conversation, find a pay phone nearby.

Even if your family has a computer, don’t rely on it for emails and paper writing; expect to do most of your emailing and papers at internet cafés or at your local library, or bring your own laptop. Only use your family’s computer if they offer and, even then, for a reasonable amount of time. Ask your family about appropriate internet usage and be conscientious of your usage as your family may pay by the hour. Bring a USB flash drive, as mentioned earlier, for printing (you can also print via email in some places but having a flash drive makes your life easier). Usually for your classes, however, you will be submitting your papers via email, but you will occasionally need to print. You can do this at Complutense (the university) or in almost any local fotocopias around the city. PSA: You’ll need get to talk to people to print things!

14 Laundry As part of your room and board fee your family will provide you with laundry facilities. Most families will not have dryers, but they will wash and line-dry your clothes for you. Talk with your family about how to do laundry in case they expect you to do it yourself; most likely your family will insist upon doing your laundry for you, and this is perfectly acceptable. Your family might have it sent out or have a housekeeper who will take care of it. Be sure to have your laundry ready the day your family asks you to and don’t hesitate to give specific instructions about cleaning care.

Bathing During your home-stay you will most likely have to share bathroom facilities with the rest of the family. Be considerate of the needs of the rest of the family and talk to your family about your schedule to develop a routine that works for everyone. The cost of water in Spain is much higher than in the U.S. It’s best to turn off the water while soaping up. Be considerate and don’t spend too long in the shower or in the bathroom.

Visitors You are not allowed to have any visitors over to your host family’s home, even if they are fellow Carleton students. This may seem surprisingly strange, but in reality, you’ll be out in the fabulous city of Madrid socializing in plazas and cafes mostly. If you would like to have a friend over, ask first. Your host family might be thrilled to meet one of your friends, but they also might be more comfortable with you being their one and only guest. Sleeping over with your boyfriend of girlfriend is extremely disrespectful—do not even think about it.

Getting to Class

Getting to Universidad Complutense de Madrid (abbreviated to Complu or UCM) Getting to Complutense is easy enough, but it is a large campus, so it is best to decide whether you want to make the trek from the metro station or want to get on the busses that take you directly to the correct building.

• The nearest metro stop is Ciudad Universitaria on the grey line (Línea 6, El Circular). This is about a 10-minute walk to the classroom. • An alternative, often faster way to get to class is by bus from Moncloa (El Circular and Yellow, Línea 6 and Línea 3) and catch the 133 or 183 bus, which will zoom you in a matter of minutes to the facultad. If these are full, the G or F buses also work but are slower (make sure that these are in fact the correct busses). The bus stop will normally have a long line of students that will crowd in until the doorway is full. If this sounds like a lot, it’s totally okay. The monitores will show you all this stuff on the first day and eventually this will just become a habit.

Madrid transit is very reliable. Depending on where you live in the city, it will take you 20-50 minutes to get to class. For more information about transportation, see Practical Life in Madrid. For more information about the school, go to https://www.ucm.es.

15 Los Monitores

The role they play The idea of “hired” friends may sound a bit strange, but having the monitores is super helpful as you get acclimated to Madrid and one of the best parts of the program. They are incredibly excited to show you what it’s like to be young in Madrid.

What to expect from them They will go out with you on weekends, show you where the fun clubs are, go to movies with you, or meet to talk about any problems you have with or need help on grammar and written work for classes and even living arrangements. However, calling them only when you need help is definitely the wrong approach. They expect to become your friend, not just a source of information and they want to show you a good time, so be open to them and reach out to them. You’ll no doubt become very close to them and remain in contact once back in the U.S if you reach out. Have fun with them! They are really awesome people! Play Frisbee with them!

Practical Life in Madrid

Metro & Buses Within the first week of the program, you’ll receive your “abono transporte”, which is your Madrid Transportation Onecard. It’s a monthly pass good for unlimited rides on Madrid’s busses, subways, and Cercanías commuter train line and is good for 30 days after its activation. Carleton will take care of getting you your first abono, which should last through mid-October, but after that you’re on your own to renew it. It’s easy and intuitive to renew and can be done at any metro station using the machines that print tickets. If you have any trouble with your pass, the Madrid Metro staff is generally very friendly and happy to help you when you ask nicely.

Madrid’s fantastic public transportation system makes it easy to navigate the city with lots of freedom. There are two main public transportation options: the metro and the bus. You will take the metro all the time. Madrid’s metro system is efficient and user-friendly. You can usually get anywhere in the city in less than an hour. It gets you everywhere you need to go, and as long as there’s no huelga (strike), the metro tends to run pretty smoothly. The bus is also a nice option because you’ll actually have a view of the city. It can be a bit more complicated and take more time, but it’s definitely the right transportation choice in some cases. Talk to your family about the routes that come by your house and experiment with the lines that run around your house. Once you get your abono, traveling on the bus will be free, and it’s a great way to get to know Madrid. Don’t worry about getting lost; that can be the most fun part of the trip!

Tip: The newer Metro lines are the higher numbers. They usually are lower in the ground and require more stairs, but the trains themselves are nicer.

16 The Buho is Madrid’s night bus and runs after the metro closes from 1:30 to 6 AM, ONLY ON WEEKENDS. Buhos follow major metro routes and have stops along metro stations. They are a cheaper option than a cab to get home late at night but can be tricky. Sometimes stops are hard to find, or conductors get lazy and forget to announce bus stops. Riding the Buho requires some vigilance and a lot of patience and can be scary the first few times you use them, but you get to see other jóvenes after a night on the town. Taxis really are the simple way to get home after a long night. Split the fare with a fellow student.

Ubers & Taxis Ride-hailing apps are currently legal in Madrid, though there is pressure for increased regulation. Apps you should know about: • Cabify: can call either private cars (like Uber) or actual Taxis. • FreeNow (aka MyTaxi): actual Taxis only ------> • Uber: private cars only • Lyft does not operate in Spain

The first two allow you to call actual taxis, which is good if you want to support taxis without hassling with calling cab companies over the phone. Especially good for scheduling cabs to the airport in advance, for example.

Pharmacies The little stores with the neon green crosses are farmacias, where you can purchase everything from Tylenol to tampons, facial cleanser to condoms. You can also get prescriptions filled. However, basic toiletry items are not usually sold at pharmacies. For these items, try perfumerías, grocery stores, and El Corte Inglés. Not all pharmacies are open all the time, but there should be signs or indications of where you can find an open pharmacy. Pharmacists in Madrid tend to be knowledgeable and friendly. Don’t be afraid to explain your symptoms to them and allow them to recommend a medication. If you don’t feel confident about describing your symptoms, are having consistent health problems, or are confused by the medical system, talk to Humberto or a member of your host family.

Libraries Becoming a member of your neighborhood library is a really good way to obtain free internet (you can get one hour for free) as well as access to books, magazines, and movies. To get a temporary library card you’ll need your passport. The library at the Reina Sofía is a program favorite. It’s got a swanky modern- art feel to it that makes you feel like an art student, even if you’re just writing in your diario. Complutense also has a library on campus very close to your normal classroom.

Communication

Post office To mail a letter or postcard, use the big yellow mailboxes (marked “Correos”) located throughout the city, particularly in main plazas. Be sure you are sending your mail to the right place—usually the mailboxes have one slot for local mail and another for national and international mail. If you need to mail a package home, this would be a good place to go; otherwise ask your host family where the nearest post office is to your house. For mailing letters, you can buy stamps at any estanco, just make sure to get international stamps.

17 Internet If your family doesn’t have Wifi (most of them do), internet cafés will be your fastest, cheapest, and easiest source of contact with the world back home. They are easily located when traveling around Spain, as well. In general, it’s a good idea to stay away from the bigger internet cafés, which are usually much more expensive and can be a hotspot for pickpockets. Smaller places tend to be cheaper, safer, and more personable. Internet will typically be free (with a purchase of something from the café), but may only allow access for an hour or two at a time. If you want to work in a hipster place, some coffee shops also have free Wifi, as well as McDonalds.

UCM Geografía e Historia has Wifi too, but it can be spotty depending what building you’re in. You can also visit libraries of UCM besides that of Geografía e Historia.

Cell Phones As described in Cell Phones, buying a prepaid SIM card is probably the cheapest and easiest option. Remember to unlock your phone before going to Spain (just ask your phone company).

*As part of our commitment to health and safety, all students on Carleton OCS programs are required to have a working cell phone capable of making and receiving both local and international calls throughout the duration of the program. While we recognize that alternative communication methods can be free or cheaper than cell service i.e. Facetime, Skype, WhatsApp, etc. those do not satisfy our need for regular local communication with staff and partners nor do they meet our emergency communication needs. Therefore, local cellular capacity on each student’s phone is required for the duration of the program.

Phone cards (Different than SIMs) Since you’ll have a cell phone, you really will only need international phone cards. Still, both local and international phone cards are sold at tobacco and newspaper stands. The cards come in increments of 5- 15 euros and some allow you to recharge them over the phone with a credit card. Depending on the card, you can find international rates as low as 6 cents/min and as high as 15 cents/min. The only reason to buy a phone card ahead of time in the U.S. is if you want to feel more secure in case of an emergency upon arrival; otherwise wait until Madrid to buy phone cards because the rates are much better. Your cell phone may be cheaper, but check rates.

Another option is to call from a locutorio, a center that offers international telephone service and internet by the hour. Prices vary widely between locutorios, so shop around, but a cheap locutorio can be less expensive than calling from a pay phone.

You probably don’t need to buy phone cards. Renewal can be done online or in-store as previously mentioned.

Pay phones All cabinas take change but you can also use a phone card. Telefonica pay phones have special local phone cards that can be inserted into their phones for easy use. Many other types of local cards that simply require you to call a toll-free number and punch in an access code are also available. Some businesses have toll-free numbers you can dial from pay phones. Toll-free numbers are 900- numbers, but not just any 900-number (i.e. 922 is not toll free).

18

Engagement in Madrid

An important question to ask yourself is how you want to spend your free time in Madrid. You will have plenty of free time to walk around the city and visit cafés/stores/museums, but it can also be fun to find a group to connect with semiregularly. This may look like once or twice a week going to yoga classes, joining board game group, regular bar visits with the monitores, etc. Although initially intimidating, the earlier you join a group the better (you only have 10 weeks!). If you are nervous, invite a Carleton friend, and realize that merely by showing up more than once people will begin to take an interest in you.

Ask Humberto, the monitores, host families, etc. for ideas of how to get involved. Also, don’t forget we live in the age of the internet. There are countless groups of all types in Madrid. Find something fun!

Here are a few ways to get involved:

Meetup Meetup is a website that helps groups of people with similar interests meet each other. You can find groups that play boardgames, play volleyball, hike, participate in language exchanges, etc. Requiring minimal commitment, open to all kinds of people, and often involving many madrileños, this is an ideal platform for Carleton students in search of groups to join!

Community Involvement To get involved in the Spanish community, doing volunteer work is a great way to make a difference in the community and to gain more exposure to the nuances of the everyday life of a madrileño. Here are some ideas to get you started:

• Carlos V (Metro: Barrio de la Concepción) – Students from years past have volunteered with after- school programs at this elementary school (including ballet, theater, and circus programs for kids aged four to twelve). The kids were adorable, the activities were really fun, and the supervisors were really cool, one was even a street performer on the side. For more information email Almendra at [email protected] or go online at http://apacarlosv.blogspot.com/

• Librería de Libros Libres (Metro: Bilbao or Alonso Martínez) – The librería is a donation-based “free book store” run by an NGO called Grupo 2013. Their goal is to increase literacy and interest in reading in Madrid, and they do this by offering access to a wide range of reading materials free of charge, to anyone who wants them. Many of their volunteers offer workshops in their areas of expertise (everything from basket- weaving to creative writing) that are free and open to the public. Grupo 2013 is always looking for volunteers, to help with all sorts of things–shelving, web design, cataloging, public relations, you name it. It’s a great community of smart, young people. Contact [email protected]

• Bakotas – A well-established program that encourages acknowledgement of and interaction with the homeless in Madrid. This program meets at a number of locations throughout the city. Participants prepare sandwiches (bocatas), and in small groups walk a routine path through the city handing out

19 sandwiches and talking to the homeless. This is an excellent way to appreciate Madrid from a different perspective as well as develop friendships with homeless and volunteers alike! The people are wonderful.

Staying Active In addition to watching sports in Madrid, you may be interested in playing sports/being active in the city. There are a number of ways you can do this. The best and most affordable way to stay active is to walk about Madrid exploring. But for more serious workouts, one can join a gym (look around your neighborhood for good gym options). Carleton usually will subsidize your gym membership, up to a certain price. Often, gym memberships will also give you access to classes (like yoga, zumba, lifting, tennis, etc.). The gym can be a fun place to make new friends and work off your host mom’s paella. Some students also chose to join sports teams in the city. We found a Frisbee team called “Dulcineas + Quijotes” that practiced a couple of times a week, and rugby clubs called Cau Metropolitano (masculino) y Sanse Scrum Rugby XV (femenino). The fall term Complutense club teams generally don’t start until later into the program so they may be difficult to join. If you’re willing to make sacrifices and make a commitment, however, it’s possible and can be rewarding.

In general, opportunities advertised as open to “Erasmus” (OCS for Europeans) are often available to you as a foreign student.

The resources and programs listed have a good reputation but be street smart when joining any group!

On the Town in Madrid

La Guía de Ocio comes out every Friday and only costs 1 euro at any newspaper stand. It is a good way to be up to date with current info on eating out, art, theater, music, and everything else going on in the city. It’s also available online. The free newspapers, Metro and 20 Minutos, also publish lists in their Friday editions citing interesting things going on in the city.

Newspaper stands In addition to selling newspapers and magazines from all over the world, these stands also sell metro and bus passes, la Guía de Ocio, and some stands may sell phone cards.

20 Shopping

• El Corte Inglés: a huge department/grocery/everything-you-could-imagine store that offers a huge selection of anything you might be looking for. There are several in Madrid—each has its own specialty. You can even purchase concert tickets on the top floor of one of the stores near Sol. This chain is a bit pricey and has forced many small family-run shops out of business.

• Casa del Libro: Closest thing to Barnes and Noble in Madrid, multiple locations. If you can’t find a book you need at an independent bookseller, this might be your best bet.

• Flying Tiger: Danish variety store chain. Sells household items and knick-knacks.

• Ale-Hop: Another chain, sells fashion accessories, gifts, and décor.

• FNAC: Sells movies, CDs, and books. The international literature section is on the second floor and its books are reasonably priced. If you plan to use your credit card at FNAC be sure to bring your passport because they will not accept other forms of ID. The store in Callao sells concert tickets, but only en efectivo (cash).

• Zara: A chain of stores that sells fun clothes for everyday or going-out. You’ll see Zara shopping bags all over the city—it serves as the major fashion trendsetter in Madrid and has huge turnover in their inventory. Compared to other stores, Zara is also pretty reasonably priced. Most locations sell women’s, men’s, and children’s clothing.

• Sfera: As cheap as Zara, but with more variety and panache.

• Topshop (Metro: Sol): Hip styles for girls straight from London. A little pricier than Zara but totally worth it.

• Stradivarius: Cheap clothes, not always great, but worth it if you’re in a crunch and looking for club wear.

• H&M: Cheaper than El Corte Ingles, good value for your euro, and with a number of trendy selections for both men and women.

• Mango: Spanish brand similar to Zara and H&M, with slightly higher quality.

• Primark: a giant four-floor, super-cheap shopping extravaganza on Gran Vía—good for cheap style and an impressive place.

21 • El Rastro: This is the most famous open-air market in Madrid. It is huge and you will find anything that you can imagine, from antiques to jewelry to clothes and food. There are a lot of people here so make sure you go with a group or even ask the monitores to take you on your first visit. Has become more touristy in recent years, but still worth a visit. Watch your purse and pockets here (Metro: La Latina).

• Also, if you’re ever overwhelmed by all the Spanish and need an English fix, try visiting the friendly J&J Books and Coffee (Metro: Noviciado, Calle Espiritu Santo). The owners serve free coffee to first timers and sell good English books at cheap prices. They also buy and trade English books.

• Librería Pasajes (Metro: Colón, Calle Génova) has a great selection of books in English and lots of other European languages.

Cafés Cafés are a great place to read and people watch, drink wonderful coffee drinks or even alcoholic drinks like cañas (small beers), vino, and cocktails and small things to snack on. Some of the smaller cafés may not be open in the early afternoon. If a café is closed, try again at 5 or 6 PM. Here are a few to try, then go explore to find more:

• Cafelito, Lavapies: Cozy café with highly recommended coffee and home-made pastries. Wifi available.

• Café La Rollerie. Guzmán el Bueno, 105: Beautifully decorated and the atmosphere is very peaceful (before 6PM). An assortment of pastries, smoothies and coffee beverages, and full menu of excellent appetizers and entrées.

• Café Santander: Spacious café with good coffee and pastries (the brazo de Gitano and arroz con leche are to die for). Gets very crowded between 6 and 8 PM, when regulars come. Good place to read and people watch. Metro: Alonso Martínez. Exit from the metro and look for the café on the plaza with the large orange typeface on their sign.

• El Café sin Nombre. Calle del Conde Duque, 10: A good place to do homework. It has a laid-back atmosphere. Sit in front and look out the windows to people watch, or sit towards the back literally hidden away. Metro: Bilbao.

• El Jardín Secreto. Calle de San Bernardino, 22: Has the best chocolate, from hot chocolate to mochas to chocolate and liquor! And it has a wonderful variety of desserts. Great layout, trendy, even Bohemian. Go with friends. Metro: Plaza de España.

• Círculo de Bellas Artes: Go for the elegance, stay for the exquisite café. You have to pay 1 euro for admission to the building (actually a museum) and then you may enter the café. The room is enormous, with massive marble columns supporting the roof, gorgeous murals, and several sculptures scattered about. It’s worth the splurge. Metro: Banco de España. There are four metro exits for

22 Banco de España, so if you emerge from the metro and don’t see the building with the columns in the façade, ask someone.

• Barbieri: Located in the heart of Lavapiés, was a hot meeting spot for Republicans (the liberal kind) before and during the Civil War. Mirrors cover the walls, high ceilings, red velvet cushions on the bench seats. Try the tasty Café Irlandés after a morning browsing in El Rastro. Metro: Lavapiés.

• Café Manuela. Calle de San Vicente Ferrer, 29: A great place to read in the late afternoon or have coffee and tostada con queso. When it’s still warm out, the large doors are left open out onto the small street and those who pass can look in to the warmly painted café and beautiful bar. Metro: Tribunal.

• El Parnasillo. Calle San Andres, 33: The walls of this great little café/bar are either covered with murals or mirrors. Metro: Bilbao.

• Café Ruiz. Calle de Ruiz, 11: Café Ruiz is a beautiful historic café with deep red velvet seats, mirrors along the walls and a warm ambiance. Metro: Bilbao.

Restaurants In Spain, you will eat okay sometimes, well often, and exquisitely more often than you expect. For a short list of favorites, see the back of the guidebook.

Like with taxi or shuttle drivers, remember that tipping is not a common practice as it is in the U.S. Waiters in Spain have salaries, and do not live off tips. It is nice to leave a little something for your waiter but nothing close to our usual 15% rule. For example, for a 12€ lunch, leaving 1€ is fine. Anything in the 1 to 2 € range will be an excellent tip and the waiter/waitress will remember it and treat you accordingly.

For reasons you will discover, it is important that you become a regular client at your favorite restaurant. Before long, you may be seen as a friend, not simply as a customer, a rarity in the US.

Tip: Signals that that have served you well in identifying good American restaurants–polished websites, clear hours, solid graphic design, even prompt service–may not be as applicable in Spain. Learn as you go and have fun. “¡Buen Provecho!”

Cine Check la Guía de Ocio for all theater info, including locations

If you want to see films in their original language (and not dubbed into Spanish) you should find a Versión Original (V.O.) theatre. There are several centrally located theaters that frequently show foreign films in their original language.

Some favorites are:

23 • Cine Doré or La Filmoteca (Film Society). Santa Isabel, 3: This government-funded arthouse theater shows film series on classical directors, genres or the cinema traditions of different countries. Tickets are only 2 euros with your student card. You can buy a ten film abono for about 15 euros, as well. The café in the lobby has great coffee and desserts. Foreign films are always shown in their original language with Spanish subtitles. Pick up the film schedule early in the month and then write down what you want to see. Metro: Antón Martín. Go up calle Atocha and take a left on Calle Doré. Take a right on the next intersection. The filmoteca will be right there.

• Cine Verdi. Bravo Murillo, 28: More expensive than the Filmoteca. It shows mostly current foreign movies. Metro: Quevedo.

• Círculo de Bellas Artes: Just around the corner of the café. Not as big or cheap as the filmoteca, but often shows foreign and experimental flicks. Metro: Banco de España.

• Casa de América: On the corner of Cibeles and Paseo del Retiro, this is the main center for Latin American arts and culture in Madrid. Recent Latin American movies are shown every week. There is usually a monthly theme such as Cine Iberoamericano. Buy a pass good for 10 movies that you can share among fellow movie-goers. Metro: Banco de España.

Clubs/Discotecas The best is to go out with the monitores. They know Madrid, the music scene, and they frequent local bars you would not otherwise know about.

Madrid is a city that never sleeps. Old and young alike are out (if you’re lucky you might end up doing karaoke with 50 year-olds!) and about every weekend having dinner and dancing ’til their feet ache. The city is filled with clubs, pubs, and bars for every type of person.

Though not a club, Las Cuevas de Sésamo has an atmosphere rich in liberal Spanish history and some of the best sangria in town. Las Cuevas is located off of Sol.

Another chill way to start your night is at El Café de Sheherzade, a classy hookah bar. It’s a great way to bond with other students on the program and relax before the night picks up (Metro: Anton Martín).

Museos Madrid has amazing art museums spanning centuries of all genres. They are inexpensive, and some allow free entrance for students with college ID cards and some are free one day a week (usually Sunday). While your Carleton one may work, the UCM one you get is the most effective. In addition to your classes in el Prado and la Reina Sofia, check out el Prado on your own (it’s massive and free, and you’re bound to find stuff not covered in class), Caixa Forum Madrid (Metro: Atocha) and Museo Thyssen- Bornemisza (Metro: Banco de España), right across from el Prado. Other highlights in Madrid:

• Museo Sorolla: An oasis in every sense of • Museo Cerralbo: One of the most unique the word, set in the impressionist museums you’ll visit: the extravagant painter’s former home in downtown house of a wealthy 19th century Madrid (Metro: Rubén Darío). archaeologist and politician, chaotically packed wall-to-wall with paintings and exotic objects. An opposite vibe to the Sorolla Museum (Metro: Ventura Rodríguez).

24 • Matadero Madrid is a former • Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida houses slaughtehouse, now an arts centre, near amazing Goya frescoes and is the Parqué Madrid Río, which is worth a painter’s final resting place (Metro: visit for its own sake (Metro: Legazpi) Príncipe Pío).

• La Casa Encendida is a cultural center that • Museo Naval: Down the street from el offers movies, plays, concerts, exhibits, Prado, a must visit for anyone remotely and a host of alternative cultural interested in boats or the Spanish empire activities (Metro: Lavapiés). (Metro: Banco de España).

• Museo del Romanticismo (Metro: Tribunal) • Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando: Active and historic art academy • El Museo del Traje: A modern fashion with notable directors and alumni museum very close to UCM (Metro: including Goya, Dalí, and Botero Ciudad Universitaria). (Metro: Gran Vía).

For more information about museums and exhibits, check la Guía del Ocio.

Theater and Opera Theater thrives in Madrid! Unlike theater prices in the U.S., Madrid is very affordable; decent seats can be purchased for as low as 5-6 euros. Look for discounted nights and lower student fares. Consider buying tickets a week or so ahead of time, but you can also buy them in the spur of the moment.

Even if you don’t like opera (or think you don’t like it), take advantage of student discounts and go to the Teatro Real (Metro: Opera) at least once. Expand your horizons and use the money for things you would not normally do in the US. Use your Carleton cultural activities money.

• Teatro Español: One of the best theaters in the city. The company has two sites, the formal Teatro Español (Metro: Antón Martín) and the Naves del Español in Matadero (Metro: Legazpi). They perform a variety of works, ranging from experimental black box works, to traditional Shakespeare, to classical pieces from the Siglo de Oro. This is a program fave theater and there’s a wonderful park right next to the Naves.

• Teatro de la Comedia: Mostly concentrates on more classical pieces from Spanish theater, but is itself a beautiful theater that always produces excellent plays. Tickets tend to go quickly here especially with more popular performances, so reserve your seats earlier rather than later (Metro: Sol)

• Centro Cultural de La Villa/Teatro Fernán Gomez: Often has a fun, possibly experimental show (such as silent theater) going on, as well as expositions and a beautiful plaza

La Guía de Ocio provides a huge amount of information on theater performances throughout the city. There’s always new estrenos every week.

25 Circus As a major European city, Madrid sees a lot of top class circus acts from all over the world pass through. Go to one! Or two! The circus is an underrated and exciting way to spend all that cultural allocation. Keep an eye on the listings at the Teatro Circo Price or talk to Humberto. He is very much in the know when it comes to these types of cultural activities.

Music Check la la Guía del Ocio for music listings.

Madrid has a couple of great jazz clubs. There are also bigger concerts and music festivals. El Colegio San Juan Evangelista sponsors a well-regarded jazz festival in the fall.

• Café Populart: Blues, jazz. Shows start at • Wurlitzer Ballroom: Alternative Rock. 10:30 PM and 1 AM. No cover, but you Calle de las Tres Cruces, 12. Metro: have to buy a drink and they are a bit Callao/Sol. pricey. Near Plaza Santa Ana, Metro: Sol. • El Búho Real: Daily acoustic concerts. Calle de Regueros, 5. Metro: • Café Central: One of the best jazz clubs Chueca/Tribunal. in Madrid. It’s also a fantastic place to get lunch. Plaza Santa Ana. • Libertad 8: Daily acoustic concerts. Calle libertad, 8. Metro: Chueca/Tribunal. • Sala El Sol: Well known Spanish and international groups. Calle Jardines, 3. • Sala Clamores: Jazz, acoustic, etc. Calle Metro: Sol. de Alburquerque, 8. Metro: Malasaña/Fuencarral

Also get to know some Spanish and Latin American artists, as Madrid is a stop on “world tours” for many artists. Like sporting events, concerts are great, high-energy activity that the whole program can go on together!

Parks El Retiro. Madrid’s equivalent of New York’s Central Park; a great place to run, feed ducks, read, picnic, and throw a Frisbee on a sunny afternoon after class. It fills up with dressed-up families and performers on Sunday afternoons.

Madrid Río. A linear park that runs for miles along the bank of the Manzanares River. Great for strolling, running, bike riding (rentals available), skating, or just people watching. Landscape architecture and bridges are spectacular. The park extends for miles, so the best place to start is at Puerta de Toledo (Metro: Pirámides). An absolute must that few tourists even know exists!

26 Parque del Oeste. Another unknown treasure frequented mostly by locals. Unlike Retiro, this is a quiet park great for picnicking, reading, and resting under the sun, and is full of interesting monuments and bunkers from the Guerra Civil. Also it is right next to the Complu!!

Casa del Campo. A huge forest with walking paths just west of the city. It contains a zoo, a swimming pool, and lots of prostitutes both day and night. You can climb up for great views of the city. Take the Metro to Moncloa and ride the gondola into the center of the park. Note: there are sketchy people here, so be wary and don’t get lost alone.

Parque de los Caprichos. This quiet park just east of Madrid is only open on weekends. It is beautiful and serene. There are a number of small monuments, the Caprichos of a restless young prince: a tiny Greek temple, a witch’s house, a small ballroom. Pack a picnic and check it out on a Saturday. Metro: Canillejas. Take the highway overpass and walk along a chain-link fence until you find the entrance.

Parque Regional Cuenca Alta Manzanares. If you are looking to escape the city for a day and hike in the mountains, this is a great place to visit. A bit of a trip from Madrid (although you will be surprised at how little time it takes to visit!). You may need to be a little creative to find transportation (think a group on meetup, a couple of buses, or blablacar, which is described in the next section, Outside of Madrid). If you want a more specific destination, check out the Valley Visitor Center of Fuenfria. It is gorgeous and has great hiking trails through the mountains. Also see “Cuenca” in Outside of Madrid.

Fútbol From world class sides to clubs buried away in obscurity, going to soccer matches is always a fun time and a good way to connect to the local culture. Tickets range in prices depending on who you’re seeing and where you want to sit, but remember: this absolutely counts as cultural money!

Depending on the team you wish to see, tickets can be bought ahead of time (but not usually more than a week in advance) by going to the stadium. Buying tickets online or over the phone is not recommended as most if not all clubs will not accept American credit cards.

If you can’t make it to the stadium, your next best option is to join the crowds at almost any local bar. Fútbol is really popular among Spaniards—people of all ages flock to the bars to cheer on their teams.

Listed below are a few teams worth looking at:

27 Real Madrid (Metro Santiago Bernabeu): One of the most famous and arguably the most successful team in the world. The stadium is huge (81k) and the cheapest tickets go for about 35 euros. If on a budget, try to get seats in the Fondo Sur. They are as cheap as you will find but also near the main supporters group, which will make for a much more exciting experience.

Atlético Madrid (Metro Estadio Metropolitano): Atleti is one of the better teams in Europe and has the best atmosphere in all of Spain. The stadium is full of passionate supporters and is not as much of a tourist attraction as Real Madrid. Expect prices to be between 35-40 euros.

Rayo Vallecano (Metro Portazgo): Rayo really is one of the most unique clubs in the world. It only represents the neighborhood of Vallecas, a working-class neighborhood in the south of Madrid, not the entire city. The club is viewed as a source of pride for the locals, which gives it an intimate atmosphere. You might even get to see old grandmothers calling the referee a puta. Tickets go for 15-20 euros. For atmosphere purposes, try to get tickets closer to the northwest end.

Bullfighting The bullfighting season ends halfway through the term, so it shouldn’t be too late to catch a Sunday afternoon bullfight. Consult local papers for fight times and where to purchase tickets. Ventas (Metro: Ventas) is the largest Bullfighting ring in Spain.

You may find bullfighting to be less culturally prevalent than advertised in your high school Spanish textbook! Your host family will likely have an opinion on the sport.

Outside of Madrid

It is highly recommended that you stay in Madrid during the first 3 weeks or so to really acclimate yourself and get to know the city. However, later on, it’s great to explore some of the wonderful smaller towns across the country. Plan to do at least one big excursion that includes an overnight stay and additional day trips. Although it never hurts to plan these kinds of trips in advance, you do not need to unless you will be staying over somewhere during a holiday weekend (Spaniards will also do a ton of domestic travel during such “puentes”). You do have to let Humberto know where and when you’re going.

Transportation throughout Spain via train or bus is easy and accessible. You can also find rides through a website called Blablacar (a mix between uber and a carpooling service). It is recommended you talk with Humberto or the monitores before giving Blablacar a try.

28 This section is a collection of some favorite excursions, and for more details and ideas of other places to go, look through Let’s Go! or one of the other recommended travel guides. Check out hostelworld.com and hostelbookers.com when comparing places to stay, whether for your travels within Spain, or outside of Spain after the program.

Regarding the No Travel Outside of Spain Policy: You won’t feel constrained. The diversity within Spain is overwhelming and being able to leverage your Spanish skills makes Spanish travel much more fun and rewarding than trying to cram in a trip to France or Portugal.

San Sebastián (weekend trip) This small Basque city, about six hours from Madrid on Spain’s northern coast, is one of the most beautiful places in the entire country. The town is located on a gorgeous beach, Playa de la Concha, flanked by two small mountains, Monte Igueldo and Monte Urgull. There’s great hiking and exploring (some Game of Thrones places nearby), and it boasts some of the best tapas in the entire country.

How and when? Go early in the term if you want to swim comfortably, although in September you’ll need reservations at least a week or two in advance. Buses leave from Avenida de la America every hour or so. Trains leave from Chamartín and are another good, and maybe more comfortable, option. Call ahead to find which departure time offers the most direct route. Because San Sebastián is some distance from Madrid, it’s best to stay for two nights, if possible.

Suggestions: The first thing to do is head down to the beach. The swimming is very good, and the boardwalk is full of vendors selling everything from souvenirs to potato chips. San Sebastián is a fairly affluent community and the decadent mansions across the street from the boardwalk are a must see. Take time to explore the labyrinthine streets of la Parte Vieja. They’re full of fun bars and shops. The view from the top of Monte Igueldo is spectacular, so pack a lunch and spend a morning climbing. There’s a kitschy amusement park on the mountaintop. Ride the Montaña Suiza, a rickety roller coaster. On the far western side of Playa de la Concha, at the foot of Monte Igueldo some amazing Chillida sculptures called El Peine de los Vientos are installed right into the rocky shore. Holes have been carved from the walkway down to the water underneath so that when large waves crash against the shore, air shoots up from below and provides a very refreshing breeze. Monte Urgull is an awesome place to hike up to Napoleon’s old fortifications. San Sebastián is famous for its tapas (or “pintxos” in euskera). Plan to spend an evening hopping from bar to bar sampling the local creations. Don’t be afraid to ask how the tapas are done in each bar (how to pick them and pay for them, what they are, etc.). Basque people are incredibly warm and welcoming (from our experience, of course). On the way home to Madrid, take the hour-long bus ride to Bilbao and check out the fantastic Guggenheim Museum of Modern Art.

Pamplona, also around an hour away from San Sebastián, is a wonderful city to visit while in the north of Spain as well. The city is know for its famous running of the bulls in early July and has a rich history and fascinating history definitely worth exploring if you have a chance.

29 San Lorenzo del Escorial (half-day excursion) This small city about an hour from Madrid is home of El Escorial, a palace, a monastery, and a royal tomb all in one. Even if you don’t have a whole day to spend here, El Escorial deserves a visit. It is awesome to hike with a friend in the mountains nearby!

How and when? Buses leave from Moncloa every two hours. The last bus back to Madrid leaves at 9 PM. The train can also be a comfortable and shorter way to travel.

Suggestions: Start with a tour of the main palace. There are several rooms set up as they would have been in the days of Felipe II, and an exquisite art collection. The tombs of almost all the Spanish monarchs are found in the basement crypt. The library is huge but unexciting for most. Instead of spending time in the library, climb to the Silla de Felipe II, a throne carved out of rock a few kilometers away from the palace. Felipe supposedly sat and watched the construction of his palace from the silla. You can find directions to it on tourist maps available at the bus station.

Segovia and La Granja (day-long excursion) This town is about an hour northwest of Madrid and is definitely worth a visit.

How and when? Segovia is less touristy later in the season, but there’s a lot to do outside in the nice weather, so don’t wait too long to go. High-speed Renfe trains now go to Segovia from Atocha and buses leave about every two hours from the Principe Pío bus station. Go early in the morning and return in the evening (the last bus leaves at 8PM). If you wish to visit the nearby La Granja, you may want to spend a night there.

Suggestions: Segovia is famous for its acueducto built by the Romans in the early second century CE. The immense structure will be the first thing you see upon entering the city. It’s also famous for the Alcázar, a Disney- like fairytale castle perched above a winding river and an open plain. The military museum inside holds a collection of Spanish armor and weaponry. The view from the tower is worth the 200-stair climb. After the tower, follow the path that leads downhill from the castle to a beautifully maintained park and walking path that circles the entire city. It is quiet and peaceful: a welcome return to nature after a few weeks in the big city. Take a little siesta in the shade of the trees or take a break from the hot sun and stick your head into el Catedral Plaza Mayor. The view is better from the outside, but it’s nice and cool, and free. Don’t leave Segovia without having a good sit in La Plaza Mayor. Drink a caña or munch on a yummy dessert at one of the restaurants. Note: the big groups of tourists tend to start leaving around 3pm. This means that places like the Alcázar are less crowded.

La Granja, is about a 15-20 minute bus ride from Segovia, is a palace that was one of the summer homes of the king until the death of Franco. Stroll around in the gardens and try to make your way through the labyrinth. Upon arriving in Segovia and before setting out to explore, ask at the bus station for the schedule of buses going out to La Granja. You can purchase a ticket for about 2 euros. Make sure you leave yourself enough time to thoroughly enjoy Segovia, ride out to La Granja, take the tour and walk around in the gardens, and get back to catch the bus home.

30

Granada (weekend trip) Granada is one of the must-do excursions. Granada is home to the beautiful La Alhambra, an immense palace built during the time of Muslim rule in Spain. La Alhambra is composed of gardens, fountains, palaces, and a castle, and is the main attraction in the city. If you can get here, DO IT! Seriously.

How and when? To get to Granada, you can either take the train or the bus. The bus is the cheapest, easiest, and most comfortable way to go. Tickets can be bought at bus stations like the one located at the metro stop Avenida de las Ámericas and will run about 25 euros round trip. The bus ride is a little over 5 hours and you may get to see a few movies. Upon arriving in Granada take a cab to your hostel, as the bus station is a bit removed from the center of town. There are many affordable and nice hostels located at the foot of the mountain leading to La Alhambra; you may want to call in advance to find out about availability.

Suggestions: If you plan on visiting during a holiday weekend, you will need to purchase tickets to enter La Alhambra ahead of time. Tickets can be purchased in banks and over the phone. We recommend that you purchase tickets ahead of time even if it is not a holiday. There are daily entrance quotas and although it is not impossible to get tickets the weekend of your visit, the experience is not pleasant and involves getting up and being in line one hour before the ticket office opens in the morning (think 7 AM on the morning of your “vacation”). If tickets are sold out online, another good move can be the “Granadacard” package that gives you free museum entries, bus rides, and an Alhambra ticket.

When you are not touring La Alhambra (allocate a whole day to it), there are plenty of other things to do in Granada. Granada is home to the best tapas in Spain. Why? Because they are free! Be sure to go bar hopping for dinner; you will be able to eat a huge meal by simply going bar-to-bar and ordering drinks that are accompanied by heaping plates of appetizers. The Arabic quarter of Granada is a fun place to walk around. Teahouses are popular places to chat and sip tea and there is an abundance of great falafel joints. If you are in a museum mood, the tombs of Isabel and Ferdinand are in Granada; the cathedral is also a nice place to visit if you have time.

In Granada, many bars serve better and better tapas (gratis) with each drink you order. Settle down in a cool looking place and enjoy the night!

Salamanca (day-long excursion or weekend trip) Salamanca is a great place to visit and can be done as either a short weekend with a one-night stayover or as a long one-day excursion.

How and when? It takes two hours by bus or train to get to Salamanca; bus is the cheaper and preferred way to go. A round-trip bus ticket will cost around 15 euros and buses leave from various bus stations located at different Metro stops. If you choose to stay overnight, hostels are cheap and easy to find, and the nightlife thrives in this city where many college students go to study.

31 Suggestions: A smaller city, Salamanca is home to the famous Universidad de Salamanca. Be sure to find the frog in the façade of the university, admire the Casa de Conchas, and walk around the spectacular Plaza Mayor. The city is also famous for its cathedrals, one new and one old, which should be toured for sure. The Museo de Arte Nouveau, whose main attraction is the amazing stained-glass windows, is also a treat!

Cuenca (weekend trip; possible day-long) Just east of Madrid, Cuenca is an old Spanish city and UNESCO world heritage site, surrounded by stunning natural beauty. In the fall it’s especially picturesque, and the walled old town is located on atop the edge of gorge.

How and When? The high-speed AVE train from Madrid to Cuenca takes an hour. From the station you’ll need to hail a cab (they’ll be sitting outside the door, otherwise there’s a Cuenca-specific taxi app) to get into town. Green River Hostel is a great spot to crash.

Suggestions: La Catedral de Cuenca looms over Cuenca’s Plaza Mayor: its nooks and crannies make it a church perhaps as awe-inspiring as Toledo’s. Definitely visit Las Casas Colgadas (Hanging Houses) propped up by wooden supports over a cliff (they now house modern art museums). Walk the bridge of St. Paul to take in the city from below, and hike up north of the old town to see it from above. If you have extra time, book a tour to La Ciudad Encantada, a fascinating geological site in the mountains north of Cuenca.

Other places to explore:

Valencia (weekend trip) Incredible beach (approximately six km from the old downtown) and a beautiful aquarium and general complex designed by Sergio Calatrava near the port. A river used to run through the city, but has since dried up and is now a park with bike trails leading to this modern complex. It’s about 20 euros to get into the aquarium, and about 45 euros round-trip on the train. It’s best to travel here early to take advantage of the beautiful beach and warm weather. Be sure to check out the paella!

Barcelona (weekend trip) It is possible to find cheap flights, nine-hour bus ride, or train. While decidedly more touristy than Madrid, Barcelona is an incredible city with amazing architecture, food, and museums worth checking out. Plus there is a beach! If you plan on going to the beach, make sure to go when the weather is still nice. Hostel One Paralelo is a great lodging option that can set you up with activities as well.

Córdoba/Sevilla (combined weekend trip – or longer if you want to wander the beautiful curvy streets) You can take the incredible AVE and get there quickly, though that’s more expensive. Buses also work fine. Córdoba has a breathtaking mosque with awesome history, and it is a beautiful place to walk around, with great flower-filled patios and everything from Roman ruins to Sephardic houses. The bridge over the river has awesome sunset views, street musicians, and great birdwatching. Sevilla is close by and also has lot to offer! Check out its famous cathedral, Plaza de América, and flamenco (ask at hostel), but if you can, leave time to wander around tiny, winding streets to encounter quaint plazas and explore the parks and paths by the river on foot—or if you’re feeling adventurous rent a bike to see more than the touristic center.

32

Toledo (day-long excursion) About 45 minutes outside of Madrid, Toledo is an excellent little town with great history and really confusing streets. This was one of the best places to buy gifts to take back home. Worth taking at least a day to check out.

Cácares (weekend trip) This sleepy town in Extremadura is a 4-5 hour bus ride away and well worth a visit. It’s like a secret Toledo with almost no tourists and a perfectly preserved medieval city. There aren’t a ton of attractions, but it’s a beautiful place to spend time, and it’s not at all expensive. Recommended if you want to get off the beaten path.

Santiago de Compostela (weekend trip) It takes 10-11 hours by train, so the night train works great. Santiago, famous for its amazing cathedral, is also a fun college town. Go later in the term when the summer pilgrims clear out. It might be rainy and cold, but that’s part of Galicia’s charm. A Coruña is less than an hour away; it’s more industrial but has a beautiful coastline and a Roman lighthouse from the 2nd century. This is a good trip for a long weekend, since it will take you a while to get there and back.

Tip: You won’t be able to see every single place! Choose a few (and they don’t have to be on this list) and enjoy wherever you are. Every city in Spain has a lot to offer if you go in with an open mind and good walking shoes.

33 Health and Safety

What if I get sick? Students in urgent need of medical attention should call the Director or program staff immediately. If you end up using medical services, you pay for the service out of pocket and submit the receipts with insurance forms in the United States for reimbursement. Ask the doctor to provide a written diagnosis, as this will facilitate your insurance claim in the US. English-speaking doctors are available at the following clinics:

• Interclinic C/ Padilla, 20 Metro: Nuñez de Balboa. In case of emergency, don’t hesitate to take a cab. Ask for Dr. Borrás: 91-575-98-34

• British American Medical Unit Conde de Aranda, 1, primero izquierda. Metro: Retiro. Office hours: Mon – Fri: 9:00 am-8:00 pm; Sat: 10:00 am-1:00 pm. Procedure for appointment: Request appointment with either Dr. Rafael Lozano, or Dr. Luis Rodríguez, or Dr. Marcos Broschi—all three are internists—who will see you and, if necessary, will refer you to a specialist. Say that you are an American student and show your student card. Tel: 91 435 18 23

• Hospital Universitario HM Madrid Plaza Conde Valle de Suchil, 16 (Metro: San Bernardo o Quevedo) Procedure for appointments: Contact the International Medical Assistance / Emergency Medical Service 24/7 or go directly to the International Department at the hospital. On site translators available. Helpline 24 hours: 629-824-020 / 629-823-493 / 91 447-66-00 If you need help, call from 9:00 am to 9:00 pm at: 629-823-493. The staff can arrange an appointment within 24 hours. Make sure you bring proof of international insurance and passport. Staff takes care of all the paperwork.

• International Medical Assistance Paseo de la Castellana, 170 (Clínica Madrid) Office hours: Monday thru Friday, 8:00 am to 2:00 pm. Procedure for appointments: Say that you are an American student and show your passport. Tel: 91 359 60 63; Fax: 91 359 61 43

• Psychotherapy Dra. Claire Jasinski Tel: 91 445 03 95 Dra. Margarita Loewe Unidad Médica Tel: 91 435 18 23

34 Where can I find contraceptives? Check the pharmacies or grocery stores. Condom machines are installed in many disco bathrooms and can even be found on various street corners.

Birth control pills are over the counter in Spain and are much cheaper than in the US. Finding a match for your brand should be fairly straightforward. Remember, if you are starting a new brand, you should use alternative protection for the first two weeks.

Will I be safe walking around the city? Madrid is a relatively safe city if you are street-smart and avoid making yourself look like a target. Whipping out the map in the middle of a crowded plaza is not the best idea. If you get lost, find someone who looks trustworthy to ask for directions, step into a business to glance at your map, or use your phone. If at any time you feel uncomfortable, it is a good idea to find a cab and pay to get yourself back to a place you recognize. All taxi drivers know the city extremely well and most are trustworthy (best to avoid a taxi alone at odd hours if possible). It is usually very safe to walk around at night by yourself; females should be on their guard but can do it. However, as a woman, it is a very good idea to avoid empty or poorly-lit streets at night in Madrid or any other large city. Also, women will usually get a ton of catcalls from older men. The best policy is to ignore them; they’re usually polite compliments and the men will leave you alone. The most important thing to do is speak with your host family to find out which neighborhoods you might want to avoid, and at what times of the day.

Will I be pickpocketed? Petty crime like pickpocketing is much more common in Madrid than violent crime. If you are aware of your surroundings and your behavior and aren’t flaunting your money, you should be fine. If you look like you're spacing out in public or not paying attention, it makes you an easy target for petty crime. We have found that pickpocketing is more common in more touristy areas of the city, so keep your guard up while surrounded by travelers. Also, just practically speaking, consider carrying a bag that closes completely. Beyond this, have a good idea where your important stuff is. Even if you think you’re safe, don’t let your guard down. Pickpockets are impressively crafty!

Take care with your belongings; always be aware of who is around you. As we suggested before, buy a few small luggage locks to put on your backpack or camera bag, and make it a little more difficult for people to steal from you. If you are in a crowd, be sure to hold your bag in front of you and never put your wallet, Metro pass, or any other important belonging in your pockets (unless your hands are consistently in them). Walking around with a backpack makes you look like a target, so try to find a purse or small messenger bag large enough to carry what you need. You’ll find you can get by with a lot less than you think. You can buy a money pouch—which may deter theft—but this is not practical on a day- to-day basis. If you are smart and conscientious about your belongings, you will cut down your chances of being targeted. Be especially cautious when in these places: Metro trains and stations, El Rastro, internet cafés, Sol, parks, crowded restaurants, and other touristy places.

While theft is unlikely if you’re cautious, it is always wise to back up your phone and laptop files habitually and use a secure passcode.

What if I am uneasy about travel in a foreign country? If you have any concerns about your comfort while living and traveling in Spain, be sure to speak with Humberto or the OCS office. There are many resources available for people of all religions, sexual orientations, races, and handicaps. Even travel guides should have listings for places to go while abroad if you should need support or assistance. If you are worried about the past terrorist

35 attacks in Spain, be sure that you take these concerns up with Humberto. Although these are perfectly valid worries, your health and safety are his main concerns and he would not continue the program if he thought that you were in danger.

Emergency Contacts

* Indicates that emergency collect calls are accepted at this number

Off-Campus Studies Office: 507-222-4332*, fax 507-222-5614; Helena Kaufman, Director/Adviser, [email protected], 507-301-5666 (cell) Naomi Ziegler, Assistant Director/Adviser, [email protected], 612-788-6328 (cell) Dean of Students: 507-646-4075*

Other College Resources (all Carleton numbers begin with 507-222): Mary Tatge, Administrative Assistant, [email protected], 4252 Chaplain: Carolyn Fure-Slocum, [email protected], 4003 (office), 507-664-0876 (home) Dean of the College Office: Andrew Fisher, [email protected], 4300* (office) Registrar: Emy Farley, [email protected], 4290 Switchboard: 4000; fax communication with students: 4421 SHAC: 4080* (office), 5419 (fax), Marit Lysne, Director, [email protected] * Indicates that emergency collect calls are accepted at this number

Medical Emergencies

All students on Carleton programs receive international health insurance and medical, security, and travel assistance coverage through Cultural Insurance Services International (CISI). See the policy summary and benefit summary for further information about coverage and procedures for accessing assistance and submitting claims: http://apps.carleton.edu/curricular/ocs/health/travelassistance/

CISI is your primary insurer while you are abroad, but you need to retain health insurance in the United States or your home country in case of an emergency where you would need to return home.

Other Resources

U.S. Embassy in Madrid U.S. State Dept. Overseas Citizens Services Serrano 75 Emergency Center 28006 Madrid, Spain Mon.-Sat. business hours: Phone: 91587-2200 Phone: (202) 647-5225 Fax: 91587-2303 After hours, Sun. and holidays: http://www.embusa.es/indexbis.html Phone: (202) 647-4000 www.travel.state.gov/overseas_citizens.html Embassy of Spain in the U.S. 2375 Pennsylvania Av. NW Washington D.C. US. State Dept –Spain Consular Sheet 20037 http://travel.state.gov/spain.html Phone:(202) 452-0100 http://www.spainemb.org/ Centers for Disease Control (CDC) www.cdc.gov/travel/index.html

36 Restaurant Guide

Madrid has hundreds of wonderful, affordable restaurants. We strongly recommend you stay away from chain eating restaurants like 100 Montaditos, VIPS, Café & Té, Ginos, etc. Number one: food is not good. Number two: you will never get to know the waiter/waitress, which in Europe is key. The difference between simply eating at a chain restaurant and becoming a regular client at a normal restaurant is HUGE. Having lunch in Europe is not only about eating. It is also about establishing a personal relationship with the restaurant personnel. Take advantage of this wonderful opportunity and eat at the same restaurant frequently. You will notice small differences in treatment and service soon.

Below is a list of good restaurants for 13-14 euros or less. Normal tip: between 8% and 10% (1€). *Recommended by el profe.

Vegetarianos *La Tercera Crucina c/ Nuñez de Arce, 3. Metro: Sol Calle del Divino Pastor, 30 Perhaps the only non-touristy place in Sol. Metro: San Bernardo Well worth a few visits. This is a raw restaurant—very creative but a little above 12 euros. Taberna El Rincón de Sancho Calle de Luisa Fernanda, 9 *Vegaviana Metro: Ventura Rodríguez C/ Pelayo, 35 Good cocido madrileño on Thursdays. Metro: Chueca, Alonso Martínez La Funda *El Fogón Verde Argumosa, 12. Metro: Lavapiés C/ Alameda 4 (5 min from the Prado) Metro: Antón Martín, Banco de España *El Tendido Andrés Mellado, 20. Metro: Argüelles Comida española (económica) Spectacular food. No tourists. It fills up quickly. *Casa Fidel El Escorial, 6. Metro: Tribunal Alcaravea A lovely little hideout in the maze of Gaztambide, 56 Malasaña. Skillfully combines quality food Metro: Pacífico, Moncloa with a distinct local atmosphere. Order the chicken whenever possible. Seriously. It’s life- Restaurante Berdi changing. Calle de Blasco de Garay, 66. Metro: Moncloa

*El Carmen Restaurante La Montaña Calle de Fernández de los Ríos, 8 Calle de Andres Mellado, 3 Metro: Quevedo Metro: Argüelles, Moncloa, San Bernardo A quaint lunch place serving magically creative, yet casually gourmet meals to a loyal clientele.

37 Suchil 15 Casa Lucas Plaza del Conde del Valle de Súchil, 15 Cava Baja, 30. Metro: La Latina Metro: Quevedo, San Bernando Moderno Casa Julio Calle de la Madera, 37 Maricastaña (very popular) Metro: Noviciado/Callao/Tribunal Calle Cordera Baja de San Pablo, 12 Mejores croquetas + caña de Malasaña Metro Tribunal/Callao Sagardi Comida Internacional (económica) Paseo de la Florida, 2. Metro: Príncipe Pío La Zucca Fancy-ish. c/ Hartzenbusch, 8. Metro: Bilbao Argentinian, Italian and Spanish—gluten-free El Melos options available. Ave María, 44. Metro: Lavapiés Super Crowded. Horario: de 21 a 2 h Mixturas Gastro Bar (one of the best) Calle Hernani, 38. Metro: Cuatro Caminos Pizza Basque & Peruvian fusion Emma y Julia Cava Baja, 19. Metro: La Latina *Restaurante Zhou Yulong (“El chino de Pza. De España”). Metro: Plaza de España Mastropiero Underground parking of Plaza de España. San Vicente Ferrer, 34. Metro: Tribunal Dirt cheap and mythical Sandos El Chaparrito Plaza del Dos de Mayo, 8 Calle Mayor 68,Calle de Ventura de la Vega 11 Metro: Tribunal, Bilbao Best Mexican food in Madrid, to some. Helado Restaurante Xiongzai *Labonata Calle San Leonardo, 3 Metro: Plaza de España Plaza de Chueca, 8. Even better and cheaper than Zhou Yulong. Metro: Chueca Best ice cream in the city La Musa Manuela Malasaña, 18 Metro: Bilbao, Tribunal *Acquolina Calle de Velarde, 17. Plaza Dos de mayo Sunne Calle de de Sta. Teresa, 2 Sani Sapori Metro: Alonso Martínez Calle Lavapiés, 31. Metro: Lavapiés Natural ice cream. Lactose-free options Caprichos JJ available Calle de Fernando el Católico, 76 Metro: Moncloa Panaderías (Bakeries) Tapas Mercado San Miguel Panem Plaza de San Miguel, next to Plaza Mayor Calle de Fernán Ganzalez, 46. Metro: Ibiza Great tapas but touristy

38 Back Home

Your host family will truly appreciate it if give them a goodbye gift, a token of thanks AND also if you write them a thank-you note after you return to the U.S. These two things are especially important if you want to remain in contact with them. You never know where the future might lead you…or them!

You may need a little time to get back into the swing of things at Carleton. That’s completely normal. Most students returning from an off-campus study program have the same experience when they step back on campus. The OCS office has info on transitioning back and they always like to hear about our travels and experiences. You can organize events, too, like panel discussions or get- togethers.

~ No matter where you are, Madrid will always be with you ~

Former Group Contacts

Curious about travel, neighborhood vibes, or general adjusting to life in Spain? Please reach out! We’d love to chat. If you’re feeling ambitious, ask one of us to create a group chat with the old and new groups so we can run a Q&A.

Name Neighborhood Travel (All: Email Santiago & Cádiz) Marko Jurkovich ‘21 Estrella Granada, Cuenca, [email protected] Logroño, Barcelona Edgar Felix ‘21 Prosperidad Granada [email protected] Ricardo Garcia ‘21 Barrio de la Concepción Granada [email protected]

Lea Winston ‘22 Niño Jesús (Retiro) Cuenca [email protected] Ben George ‘21 Pacífico/Atocha [email protected] Sam Goity ‘21 Niño Jesus Granada, San Sebastián [email protected] Eve Farrell ‘22 Malasaña Cuenca [email protected] Zach Irvin ‘21 Las Delicias [email protected] Anna Grove ‘21 Estrella Cuenca [email protected] Marlena Resnick ‘21 Arguelles/Moncloa [email protected] Kate Engel ‘21 Estrella [email protected] Sam Kwait-Spitzer ‘21 Chamberí/Trafalgar Cuenca [email protected] Sara Saintil ‘21 Conde Granada [email protected] Duque/Malasaña

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