Business: Krakow & Events, Film, Theatre, Music, Shopping, Eating, Fashion, the Great, the Good and the Małopolska Reviews + More Cutting Edge

News: Culture: Lifestyle: Business: Krakow & Events, film, theatre, music, Shopping, eating, fashion, The great, the good and the Małopolska reviews + more cutting edge

May 2013 Edition 101 ISSN 1898-4762 www.krakowpost.com

Photo: Paweł Wewiorski

Krakow Film Festival Krakow Photomonth Beer Revolution

Ghislain Dussart, Untitled, 1960s, Mixed media, 40 x 29,5 cm Beer Revolution Courtesy of Michael Fuchs Galerie GmbH: Photomonth 2013

Filmmaking in Krakow 4 Startup Pirates 5 53rd Krakow Film Festival 6-7 Krakow Post is a monthly publication Krakow’s Independent Cinemas 8-9 owned by Lifeboat Ltd. and published under license by Krakow Media Krakow’s Beer Revolution 10-11 ISSN: 1898-4762 Posted: The Month’s Events 12-13 Fitness www.krakowpost.com Kino Mania: Polish Cinema 14 Managing Director: David McGirr [email protected] Club Life: Music and Gigs 15-18 Healthy Living 19 Managing Editor: Jamie Stokes [email protected] Fair Play: Polish Football 21

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Krakow Photomonth 24-25 For advertising inquiries, please contact: [email protected] Krakow Photography Group 26-27 +48 519 714 474 Her Story 28-29 TEDx Kids 30 Classified Ads 31 TedX Kids 4 Filmmaking in Krakow The little… ■ Nissan Tzur

rakow is known for its many tourist fascination with Jewish life and her current by interesting characters, as a way into wid- play based on the story,” he said. Kattractions, universities and thriving project, Shalom Polsko – a series of docu- er themes of contemporary identity in Po- AU Studios’ products are broadcast on technology and outsourcing industries mentaries about Jews living in Krakow. land. The films are an opportunity for Poles TV stations, shown at cinemas and have but, in recent years, the city has also be- Talking about her project, Paulina said: to get to know Jews as ordinary people, also taken part in film festivals in Poland came a centre of filmmaking. “Shalom Polsko is a series of 10 short films and to understand their own history, cul- and abroad. All of them are filmed in Kra- Adam Uryniak founded AU Studios in on a variety of Jewish subjects made spe- ture, and the roots of their own Christian kow and both Paulina and Adam agree 2009 after graduating from the Krakow cifically for Polish audiences. My aim is to traditions better. The films are shown on that filmmaking has recently taken off in School of Film and Audiovisual Communi- provide an intimate glimpse into this cul- TVP Krakow and have attracted large audi- Krakow. “There is strong competition in the cation. Adam was soon joined by Paulina ture – so near and yet so far for Poles – for ences.” field of filmmaking in Krakow, but there is Fiejdasz, and they began producing docu- the first time. Most Poles know only frag- Adam Uryniak is most proud of the The a place for everyone” said Adam. The pair mentaries together. Paulina graduated ments from this culture and community, Vanishing, a movie he recently produced share the dream of breaking out of the bor- from the Łódź Film School and then stud- which was a major part of Polish society based on a book by Olga Tokarczuk. “I ders of Poland and producing films abroad. ied political sciences and Jewish studies at for hundreds of years. I use Jewish holidays, read the novel and asked Ms.Tokarczuk if it Meanwhile, they continue to seek financial the Jagiellonian University, which led to a traditions and cultural events, as described would be possible for me to write a screen- backers for their many ideas.

…and the large Scene from Shalom Polsko Shalom from Scene

lvernia Studios is one of the largest services with investment in its own production facilities and the studio has Dolby editing and premixes, on the documentary Aand most modern film studios in Po- ductions and co-productions. The studio Premier Studio certification, True-light The- Crulic. Our sound engineers, Piotr Witkows- land. Housed in a complex of buildings produces international features for theat- atre certification and is a member of the ki and Sebastian Włodarczyk, received the just outside Krakow that looks like a comic rical release, video games, music projects Kodak Image-care Program. award for best sound production for their book moon base, the studio was founded and commercials. Ewa Szkudlarek, Alvernia’s PR manager, work on Crulic at the 37th Gdynia Film Fes- by Polish entrepreneur Stanisław Tyczyński. Intended to be a one-stop shop for film told the Krakow Post about their recent tival.” As the founder and former owner of RMF production, Alvernia offers soundstages projects: “In the course of a just three years, Alvernia were also involved in the 2011 FM, Tyczyński built the first private radio (including a shade-less spherical blue- Alvernia Studios has participated in over 40 Bollywood hit Azaan, filmed in Krakow, station in Poland, and achieved some of screen) a music scoring studio, mobile feature film productions. We were respon- (camera, light, grip equipment, crew and the highest audience ratings among Euro- units, full shooting equipment, and motion sible for visual effects and postproduction power generator) and the 2010 feature Es- pean broadcasters. capture services using ultra-modern Vicon on the thriller Arbitrage, and for full sound sential Killing. Alvernia’s facility combines complex film cameras. It also has a full range of post-pro- production including sound design, sound Avernia Studios Avernia Startup Pirates Drop Anchor in Krakow

■ Julia Hoffmann

s well as commercial players such as their full potential: “Young startups often ADeutsche Telekom, Krakow’s lively have good ideas, but they don’t know startup scene has also grabbed the at- how to put them into action. They are tention of non-commercial support or- not aware of the legal requirements, they ganisations. One such is Startup Pirates, don’t know how to start and which steps a non-profit initiative active around the to take – they often do not have mentors globe that will be holding a special train- to guide them. We offer the opportu- ing programme for young entrepreneurs nity to meet major players on the startup in the city from May 25 to June 1. scene, to consult with creative and expe- During the week, participants will take rienced people and find realistic ways to part in business-related workshops, work make their dreams come true.” with mentors and get to know like-mind- The Krakow workshop will have some ed people. Finally, they will present their impressive mentors and speakers on ideas to potential investors and members hand. Available to pass on their wisdom of Krakow’s startup scene. will be: Vincent Vergonjeanne, CEO and Diana Solomko, coordinator of the co-founder of Kobojo, a European leader Startup Pirates event in Krakow, is espe- in the social gaming industry; Jaromir cially keen to encourage students to con- Dzialo, who built a startup in Silicon Val- sider starting their own businesses: “As a ley and sold it to a leading social network; student or new graduate you are in the Tej Panesar, CEO and founder of Panalyst perfect position to try your hand at open- Sp. z o.o., a private equity and corporate ing your first startup. You don’t have too advisory firm operating in Poland; Marek many commitments, like a family, which Przystas, creator of the globally success- allows you to take the risks that are inevi- ful Duckie Deck educational games; and table in business. You are still at the begin- Richard Lucas, who has started and been ning of your career and able to decide if involved in many successful businesses in you want to develop yourself in an exist- Krakow over the past 20 years. ing company, or build your own.” The first Startup Pirates week took place With a remarkable number of IT stu- in Porto in 2011. Since then, the non-prof- dents and graduates and relatively low it organization has evolved into a global labour costs, Krakow has bloomed into network with events and local teams all Faculty of Loving Krakow? International a centre of the European tech world. over the world. This year, the Pirates are & Political Solomko, who studied in Moscow and working on four continents, with events Want to stay? Studies worked in the United States, describes the being held in Pakistan, Brazil, Spain, Peru Come study here and Institute of discover the new Europe European atmosphere in the Polish city as particu- and, of course, Poland (there is second Studies larly creative and inspiring, and she sees a event in Gdańsk in September). lot of IT graduates finding jobs in Krakow Interested entrepreneurs can register or using their knowledge and enthusiasm for the workshop week at: krakow.startup- www.euroculturekrakow.com to develop business ideas. pirates.org. The 30 participants with the 2 years | 120 ECTS | Joint Degree Krakow’s young entrepreneurs are also most promising ideas will be chosen for building potentially powerful networks, the program. To cover training, materials MA in International meeting at regular events such as Startup and organisation, Startup Pirates charges Relations: Europe www.visegradstudies.eu 2 years | 120 ECTS | Joint Degree Stage and Open Coffee. Diana Solomko an attendance fee of 269 złoty (189 złoty in the Visegrad Perspective believes that organisations like Startup Pi- for students). rates can help these entrepreneurs realise 53rd he Krakow Film Festival is the oldest Tevent of its kind in Poland. Despite the flourishing of younger, brasher film festivals in the city, the KFF remains the big brother of them all. Highly regarded globally, the KFF’s competitions are recognised by the Krakow European Film Academy and the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, which means winners are automatically eligible for the European Film Awards and the Os- cars in the short film categories. The 53rd edition of the KFF will begin on May 26 with the Polish premier of Harry Film■ Giuseppe Sedia Festival Dean Stanton: Partly Fiction (2012), a bio doc directed by Swiss filmmaker Sophie Huber about the life of the acclaimed American thespian and favourite of Roger Ebert. Stan- ton’s long career as both an interpreter of folk songs and an actor included working with major New Hollywood names such as Scorsese, Ridley Scott and Francis Ford Cop- pola. As usual, the KFF’s organisers have an- nounced the winner of the annual Dragon of Dragons Award well in advance of the festival. This year, the life achievement award goes to the Dutch animator and Academy Award-nominee, Paul Driessen. After contributing animations for The Bea- tles’ psychedelic classic Yellow Submarine Glastopia (2012) Zuloak (2012) (1968), directed by George Dunning, Dries- sen emigrated to Canada where he became a regular contributor to the National Film Board. The KFF’s packed programme includes a retrospective of Driessen’s work, and the man himself will conduct a master class during the festival. Adding to the theme of animation greats will be a posthumous homage to Polish avant-garde animator and inventor Julian Antonisz in the form of an exhibition titled ‘Antonisz: Technology for Me Is a Form of Art’ at the National Museum in Krakow. The festival programme complements An- tonisz’s note books, cuttings and plans for mad machines displayed in the exhibition with a special show of his oeuvre. Gypsy Davy (2012) This year, the KFF received a record Zabójca z lubieżności (2012) Shallow (2011)

Salma (2013) This year, the KFF received a record number of submissions number of submissions, over 3,000, which mentaries that have made it into the com- have been sifted and sorted into the festi- petition, the KFF’s artistic director, Krzysztof val’s four competition programmes. One Gierat, explained: “Some of the artists in our of these competitions is for Polish films competition films will be familiar to audi- only, but the other three are open to docu- ences. Others may be recognised from the mentaries, short and animated films from names of their bands, but some of them around the world. The coordinator of the will be new to festival-goers. This is good.” Selection Committee, Patrycja Czarny, said: The list of films in the competition includes “The significant increase in submissions Zuolak (2012), a music doc made by Basque Heal your Life® proves the great reputation of the KFF, but rock hero Fermin Muguruza, and Glastopia also seems to be the result of introducing (2012), a 75-minute film about the counter- Workshop a new section – the music documentary culture scene filmed out of the spotlight at competition.” Glastonbury in 2011. The DocFilmMusic competition is cer- In addition to the national contest, which tainly the most significant novelty in this sees 42 Polish films competing for the Gold- year’s programme. This new section has en Hobby-Horse award, KFF audiences will been put together in collaboration with the also have the opportunity to watch the 38 Polish Filmmakers’ Association and is a de- short features, including seven Polish pro- velopment of the non-competitive Sound ductions, chosen for the international film of Music strand from earlier iterations of the competition, which has been an integral Krakow Film Festival. This section proved part of its festival since the 1960s. a favourite among festival-goers, who This year, the festival’s office will be head- thronged open-air screening in the Old quartered in the brand new Małopolska Town. This tradition will continue with regu- Garden of Arts complex – a stunning cul- lar KFF contributor, Jan Chołoniewski, put- tural centre that opened in late 2012. Fes- ting together a late night show of the most tival passes can be purchased online from original music videos from recent years. www.krakowfilmfestival.pl and early-bird Commenting on the list of music docu- discounts are available until May 10. Give yourself a chance... You ARE worth it! 8

KRAKOW’S INDEPENDENT MonicaCINEMAS Semczyk ■ Krakow is blessed with a wealth of independent movie houses that have survived despite the advent of the multiplex. In the month of the Kino Pod Baranami Krakow Film Festival, we present Kijów.Centrum Rynek Główny 27 the Krakow Post guide to the well- al. Krasinskiego 34 www.kinopodbaranami.pl www.kijow.pl known and not-so-well-known art house cinemas to be found in every Kino Pod Baranami (Cinema Under the Rams) enjoys the Kijów.Centrum, previously known as Kino Kijów (Kiev Cin- finest location of any movie house in Krakow – inside an corner of the city. ema), was a revolution in movie-going when it opened in historic palace on the corner of the Main Market Square. 1967. It was the largest cinema in Krakow at the time and The Pod Baranami Palace, from which the cinema takes the first in Poland capable of screening 70mm widescreen its name, has an intimate association with the cultural life format movies with stereo sound. The building is now a of Krakow. The infamous Piwnica pod Baranami cabaret treasured example of Communist era architecture, as is the club opened in the cellar of the same building in 1956 and monolithic Hotel Cracovia next door, and features striking remains in business today. Kino Pod Baranami opened in mosaics on the exterior back wall. The cinema changed its 1969 and is firmly established as one of the city’s favourite name in 2008 after a major renovation programme that art house cinemas. It has three screening rooms: the Red added a café, a second screening room and technological Room can seat 128, the Blue Room 102 and the newest improvements. As well as showing the latest mainstream addition, the White room, has seats for 30. As well as show- movies, live broadcasts of opera, ballet and concerts from ing mainstream and new Polish movies (often with Eng- London, New York and Moscow, and acting as a venue for lish subtitles), Pod Baranami holds regular thematic movie film festivals, Kijów.Centrum runs the Klub OFF Kijów in its weeks (silent cinema, Russian cinema, African cinema etc.) basement. This cosy film club with a bar shows B-movies and all-night movie marathons. The cinema does a lot to (often free of charge) and hosts film discussions, concerts cater to moviegoers with kids, holding screenings for par- and exhibitions. Kijów.Centrum’s main screening room ents and tots and often complementing its film festivals seats 828, and the smaller room 32. with screenings and events on the same themes for the youngsters.

Kino ARS ul. Sw. Tomasza 11 www.ars.pl

Kino ARS has had a troubled history, despite being one of the best-loved art house cinemas in Krakow. The first cinema on this site opened in 1916 and survived until 1980. In 1995, movie magic returned to this Old Town street in the form of Krakowskie Centrum Kinowe ARS (or Kino ARS, as it if better known). The ARS acronym is taken from Aneks (an- nex), Reduta (redoubt), Sztuka (art), the names of the original three screening rooms. Disaster loomed in 2012 when the building’s owners massively increased the rent, but a city-wide outcry backed by a furious social media cam- paign secured a five-year deal that allowed the cinema to remain open, though it lost its largest screening room. Kino ARS now has five, small screening rooms, each with its own distinct atmosphere, and one featuring a bar. The cinema’s repertoire includes mainstream English-language movies and lots of Polish films. Discussion groups and guest lectures are also held here. Kino Paradox Kino 18 ul. Krupnicza 38 ul. Floriańska 18/3 www.kinoparadox.pl pauza.pl

Kino Paradox first opened its doors in 1956 at a location Kino 18, also known as Kino Pauza, is located on the second on ul. Krowoderska and originally functioned as a meeting floor of the building at ul. Floriańska 18, next to the hyper- place for the Polish Boy Scouts, though it also hosted movie trendy Pauza Café. The cinema, in association with the evenings from the beginnings. It underwent renovation in café, frequently hosts special guests, lectures, interviews, 1978 and has functioned as an independent cinema since and openings. Kino 18’s ‘mission statement’ is to cater to then. In 1996, Kino Paradox moved to its current location moviegoers looking for a rich movie experience that can- on ul. Krupnicza. It boasts a student friendly environment not be found in popular cinema. Their selection is centred and hosts forums such as the Student Film Discussion Club on independent films ranging from animation to docu- for both high school and university students. Discounts mentaries. Kino 18 takes special care to cater for non-Polish can be obtained by joining the club. Paradox has been part KIKA audiences with many of their screenings featuring English of the Student Cinema Network since 1997 and strongly ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 18 subtitles. There is one screening room and films are shown emphasizes Polish and European cinema, both contempo- kinokika.pl seven times a week. rary and classic. Paradox can seat up to 60 people and has one screening room.

KIKA is one of the newest additions to the family of Kra- kow’s independent cinemas, and the first in the Podgórze district on the south side of the Vistula. The venue is both a café and a movie theatre, so you can enjoy a fresh coffee and a pastry before heading in to your screening. KIKA also holds frequent cultural meetings, lectures, and movie pre- miers. It specialises in showing movies that have long dis- appeared from the multiplexes and goes to great lengths to be child-friendly, holding regular screenings for parents and their youngsters. The cinema seats up to 41 guests and KIKA is available to rent as a unique event or party venue.

Kino Agrafka Kino Mikro ul. Krowoderska 8 ul. Juliusza Lea 5 www.kinoagrafka.pl www.kinomikro.pl

Kino Mikro has been promoting art house movies in Kra- The oddly named Agrafka cinema (‘agrafka’ is Polish for kow since 1984. As the name suggests, Mikro is not Kra- ‘safety pin’) is a relatively new independent movie house kow’s largest movie house, but it is one of the most in- in a location with a long cinematic history. Kino Paradox novative and influential. In its early days, Mikro hosted the was housed in this building on ul. Krowoderska from 1956. legendary Mikro Show, a combination of live performance When the associated youth club moved in 2009, a reno- and film. One famed example featured actors dressed as vation project resulted in the birth of Agrafka. The cinema vampires climbing through the windows and ‘attacking’ is known for its close involvement with Krakow’s dynamic the audience during a showing of horror animations by ec- student life, hosting discussions, meetings and lectures. In centric Krakow director Alexander Sroczyński. Kino Mikro’s 2011, Agrafka received the Polish Film Institute award for Kino Sfinks main showing room can seat 121 and is known for its dis- Best Movie Theatre in Poland. Agrafka is proudly popcorn os. Górali 5 tinctive red and blue décor. The smaller Mikroffala showing free. The screening room seats 109. www.kinosfinks.pl room has comfortable couches and a piano and can seat thirteen viewers. Kino Mikro remains strongly involved in the independent movie scene and regularly features as a venue for Krakow’s many movie festivals.

Kino Sfinks has been bringing big screen delights to the people of Krakow’s often neglected industrial district, Nowa Huta, since 1960. Since 1985, it has been part of the CK Norwid Culture Centre, which also includes a library and masses of other community facilities. Sfinks screens international and Polish films with an emphasis on shows for kids and senior citizens. The centre also boasts a film studio, which produces a weekly seven-minute news feature about life in the district – a unique undertaking in Poland. 10

■ James Eastwood rakow is now the best place in Europe to sample Polish change, it is the myriad of other pubs that now provide the Kcraft beers, and brews from independent beer makers scale. A growing number of savvy pub managers have been around the world, but just five years ago it was almost impos- adding beers from regional, independent and foreign brewer- sible to find anything on tap other a handful of bland, gassy ies to their range, sometimes alongside mainstream lagers. Kra- lagers. It has been a lightning revolution that shows no sign of kow had only three pubs selling regional beers in 2009 – today fizzling out. it has more than 50. Kuba Wojdyło, co-founder of the trendy Poligamia bar, said: “More and more people are becoming inter- In the years after the fall of Communism in Poland, multi-na- ested in good beer. Having a varied selection helps us to attract tionals such as Heineken and Carlsberg quickly gobbled up the beer fans, as well as casual drinkers.” few remaining national breweries. These companies used their marketing muscle and scale to convince Polish bar managers The perception of beer culture as being male dominated has to stock the ‘must-have’ brands. Nearly all these beers were pas- also changed in Krakow. It is not unusual to find as many fe- teurised lagers of similar strength and taste. For the discerning male beer fans sampling the latest IPA or Milk Stout as guys. Bar beer drinker in Krakow, the situation was dire. owners have noted that female drinkers in Krakow undoubt- edly account for a large percentage of the growth in regional About five years ago, a small number of entrepreneurial pub beers sales. owners in Krakow decided to turn the accepted pub business model on its head. Instead of selling mainstream beers, they Krakow’s brewing scene has also changed rapidly. In January focused instead on providing beers from regional and inde- this year there was a single brewery in the city (C.K. Browar). pendent breweries. Consumer response was overwhelmingly Then in March, Stara Zajezdnia, the first new brewery in Ka- positive and, before long, these bars began to build zimierz for many years, started producing. A range of loyal followings. unpasteurised beers, inspired by a Czech master brewer, is now being served The hugely popular Omerta Pub to appreciative drinkers inside a in Kazimierz started selling vast former tram depot. Next in bottled beers from smaller line will be Pracownia Piwa, Polish breweries in 2008. a new Krakow micro- They have since added brewery co-established 30 draught taps (includ- CUSTOMER REPSONSE WAS by home brewer To- ing British style hand OVERWHELMINGLY POSITIVE masz Rogaczewski. The pumps), expanded into home-brewing scene the premises next door AND, BEFORE LONG, THESE has flourished in Kra- and created a second kow for many years, bar serving a diverse BARS BEGAN TO BUILD LOYAL and Tomasz is unlikely range of international FOLLOWINGS to be the last local en- beers. Jarek Guzda, Omer- thusiast to step up to com- ta’s visionary owner, said: mercial brewing. “By focusing on craft beers, we began attracting lots of customers The Internet is also playing an im- who appreciated choice, quality and portant role. With the emergence of presentation.” Facebook, and websites such as BeerPubs.pl, regional craft breweries and pubs are finding it easier to House of Beer has achieved similar success in the heart of the reach beer fans outside their local areas. BeerPubs.pl is the first Old Town. Although only approaching its third anniversary, this Polish website to pull everything together for both enthusiasts fashionable drinking palace has stocked over 400 beer brands and casual fans; providing information on more than 750 Polish to date, and has over 200 beers available every day. Over- beers, the best pubs, beer festivals, breweries, news and events. whelmed with customers, House of Beer has also expanded, The fact that it was conceived in Krakow is another example of this time into a large cellar. Owner, Dona Sienkiewicz, described how the city is influencing beer culture at a national level. the secret of their success: “From day one, we wanted to put the emphasis on beer, providing real choice in a friendly atmo- The backdrop to the beer revolution in Krakow has been a sphere with knowledgeable staff.” change in the image of the drink in Poland. Beer is no longer regarded as a drink for the streets, and is much more likely to Omerta and House of Beer are not the only soldiers in this revo- be considered a refined, crafted beverage. This has helped beer lution. Other celebrated drinking havens include Sarmacja, Non sales nationally, with regional and independent breweries lead- Iron, BeerGallery, Strefa Piwa and Chmiel, to name just a few. ing the way. Many brewers, large and small, have responded by All these pubs have dedicated themselves to beer quality and becoming ever more experimental with their new brews, fuel- diversity, and have become the kind of places where conversa- ling interest and adding to the variety of Polish beers available. tions about the latest premier are as likely to be about newly released beers as they are films. Krakow, a city established as a centre for culture, beauty and festivals, can now raise a glass and celebrate another accolade While the dedicated ‘beer pubs’ have been the catalysts for – as the beer capital of Poland. 12

Tadeusz Rolke, Paris 1965 Photomonth 2013

A look ahead to events this month

Exhibitions Krakow Photomonth MOCAK New Collection Ethnographic/Animation/Art Szymborska’s Drawer Local and world-renowned photographers The opening of a new collection at Kra- If you’ve ever wanted to peek through the Krakow’s beloved Nobel Prize winning poet will be unslinging their camera and asking kow’s most sexily-acronymed gallery of keyholes of a modern-day Polish village, Wisława Szymborska once said the drawer the city to say ‘cheese’ from mid May as one modern art is a major event on the cultural Krakow’s Ethnographic Museum provides was humanity’s greatest invention and the of Europe’s greatest festivals of photography calander. The, incredibly broad, theme is the chance with an exhibition of artworks giant chest of drawers in which she kept a enters the frame. See pages 25–25 for full ‘media’ and the collection features the created by villagers working with visiting weird and wonderful collection of knick- coverage, or visit: www.photomonth.com work of no less than 59 artists. ethnographers and animators. knacks forms the centre of this exhibition. When: May 16 to June 16 When: From May 17 When: Until May 12 When: Permanent Where: Numerous venues Where: MOCAK, ul. Lipowa 4 Where: Ethnographic Museum, Plac Wolnica 1 Where: Szołayski House, pl. Szczepański 9

The Perfect City A Woman’s Work Traces of Memory Uprising 1863 A comprehensive history of Krakow’s most The idea of this exhibition is to survey re- Photographs by the late Chris Schwarz and Taking place in one of Krakow’s most his- troubled district – the planned Socialist alistic, symbolic and allegorical represen- text by Prof. Jonathan Webber are com- torically significant buildings, this exhibi- paradise of Nowa Huta. The exhibition com- tations of ‘women’s jobs.’ The exhibition bined to offer a powerful, moving, but ulti- tion brings together works created by art- prises photos, multimedia presentations brings together some 150 prints from the mately hopeful insight into the Jewish past ists who bore witness to one of Poland’s and documentaries covering 50 years. 16th to the 19th centuries as well as con- and present in Poland. The material took 12 darkest hours – the heroic, but ultimately When: Permanent temporary works of art. years to compile. doomed, Uprising of 1863. Where: Nowa Huta branch of the Historical When: Until August 11 When: Permanent exhibition When: Until May 26 Museum of Krakow, os. Słoneczne 16 Where: ICC, Rynek Główny 25 Where: Galicia Jewish Museum, ul. Dajwór 18 Where: Sukiennice

Limits of Fashion Edward Dwurnik: Madness! Jewish Street Art Lady with an Ermine Part of the main programme of events for A major chronological retrospective of the An exhibition of murals inspired by Jew- Poland’s most valuable work of art, Leon- Krakow Photomonth 2013, the Limits of work of Polish painter and graphic artist, ish culture in its broadest sense and com- ardo da Vinci’s Lady With an Ermine, is now Fashion exhibition is presented as the key Edward Dwurnik, this exhibition aims to missioned for one of the Galcia Museum’s on display at Wawel Castle. Tickets cost to understanding the broad definition of make sense of work that manages to be display areas from artists including: Nawer, 10zl, but book in advance if you want to ‘fashion’ adopted as the theme for this both accessible and mysterious. The mad- Dariusz Paczkowski, Mikołaj Rejs, Pikaso, avoid queues – only 20 people at a time year’s festival of the still image. ness? Dwurnik’s hyperactive output. and Adam Niburski. will be allowed into the room. When: May 19 to June 17 When: Until June 9 When: Ongoing When: Permanent Where: Bunkier Sztuki, Plac Szczepański 3a Where: National Museum, al. 3 Maj 1 Where: Galicia Jewish Museum, ul. Dajwór 18 Where: Wawel Castle CULTURAL PARTNERS Film Music / Other Krakow Film Festival Night of Museums The 53rd edition of Poland’s longest-run- Krakow’s tenth Night of Museums will see ning film festival will once again attract most of the city’s cultural hotspots wel- celebrities, cineastas and simple lovers of coming guests late into the night. If past the moving image from across the globe years are any guide, expect hordes of cul- to Krakow. See pages 6–7 for full coverage, tural night owls to be prowling the streets. or visit: www.krakowfilmfestival.pl. See: noc-muzeow.pl When: May 26 to June 2 When: May 17/18 Where: Cinemas across the city Where: Numerous venues

Kino Pod Baranami African Festival One of Krakow’s favourite art-house / fam- Africa seems a long way from Krakow but, ily cinemas, Kino Pod Baranami can be every year, a taste of the continent from relied on to be fully engaged in the city’s which humanity sprang reaches far into many film festivals, and this month’s Kra- the frigid north in the form of the African kow Film Festival is no exception. For de- Festival. Movies, music and more. See: tails, see: www.kinopodbaranami.pl www.festiwalafrykanski.com. When: Permanent When: May 24–31 Where: Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Główny 27 Where: Various venues I’m So Excited I’m African Festival Opera at Kijów.Centrum Juwenalia Kijów.Centrum’s long running season of Every spring, the city’s thousands of stu- live broadcasts from the world’s top opera dents emerge from the darkened libraries and ballet venues continues in May with where they have spent the previous many the chance to see a production of Sergei weeks studying for their exams and let Prokofiev’s Romeo and Juliet from the Bol- their hair down as only twenty-somethings shoi Theatre in Moscow. can. Expect shenanigans. When: May 12, 16:45 When: May 6–12 Where: Kijów.Centrum, al. Krasińskiego 34 Where: Inescapable

I’m So Excited Opera Krakowska Almodóvar is back with a long anticipated This month at Krakow’s very own temple return to ultra-camp comedy in the form of the operatic arts, Opera Krakowska’s of I’m So Excited (Los amantes pasajeros) and fine company presents: Puccini’s Tosca and Kino Agrafka is showing this tale of mile- Madam Butterfly, Rossini’s Cinderella, and high misfits trapped on a trans-Atlantic Markwick’s Little Lord, among others. For flight from May 10. more details: www.opera.krakow.pl When: From May 10 (other dates tbd) When: Throughout May Where: Kino Agrafka, ul. Krowoderska 8 Where: Opera Krakowska, ul. Lubicz 48 Organizer: THE JUDAICA FOUNDATION – Center for Jewish Culture Co-organizers: City of Krakow www.krakow.pl Kino Kika At the Philharmonic Partners: Krakow youngest and cutest cinema, Kino Krakow’s Philharmonic Hall will resound Kika, has gone to great lengths to be child to the tones of the Cracow Horn Quartet; (and parent) friendly. It has just been recog- winner of the Wieniawski Violin Competi- nised as a ‘breast-feeding friendly zone’ by tion, Soyoung Yoon; Ensemble Peregrina; the Mother’s Milk Foundation and has reg- and, of course, the Krakow Philharmonic Media: ular shows for parents and tots. Orchestra. See: www.filharmonia.krakow.pl Współpraca redakcyjna When: Every day When: Throughout May Where: ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 18 Where: ul. Zwierzyniecka 1 e Judaica Foundation - Center for Jewish Culture, Krakow, www.judaica.pl 14

■ Giuseppe Sedia

Go now! See it Solid If you must Avoid

Imagine 2012 Starring: Alexandra Maria Lara, Edward Hogg, Melchior Derouet, Francis Frappat | Directed by: Andrzej Jakimowski

Small wonder that Andrzej Jakimowski’s listening to the echoes. His method, however, latest offering received a chorus of praise at is greeted with scepticism by the school’s the Toronto International Film Festival. It is director. Ian and the charmingly fragile Eva indisputably one of the most impressive artistic (Alexandra Maria Lara), study, smell and then statements on blindness in recent years, along touch each other before entering into an affair. with Artur Żmijewski’s Blindly (2012). While The Polish cinéaste directs the camera at the Żmijewski filmed blind people attempting, and feet of the lovers to suggest a form of sensuality failing, to paint and outline objects, Andrzej between them that lacks the element of sight. Jakimowski uses the camera to display a world Throughout the film, Jakimowski wonderfully of new possibilities for them. The plot is built evokes the tension resulting from off-screen, around the character of Ian (Edward Hogg), a literally out of sight, threats to which the spatial orientation specialist hired by a private characters are continuously exposed and the school for the blind in Lisbon’s Old Town enigmatic cityscapes à la De Chirico, immersed district. The teacher does his best to popularise in the sunlight of Southern Europe, confirm echolocation, a technique that allows the blind cinematographer Adam Bajerski’s talent. to perceive objects by producing sounds and

Układ zamknięty (Closed Circuit) 2013 Starring: Janusz Gajos, Wojciech Żołądkowicz, Kazimierz Kaczor | Directed by: Ryszard Bugajski

Ryszard Bugajski was one of the few Polish directors Andrzej Kostrzewa, a Machiavellian prosecutor who who did not manage to re-establish his career fabricates charges against the founders of a start- abroad after being artistically emasculated by up company. Bugajski remains in step with current the Communist regime. Following the release of thinking by showing that the forging of evidence by Przesłuchanie (Interrogation, 1982), a brave, Cannes- the secret services is no longer sufficient to destroy award-winning drama that was smothered by a reputations. At times, Układ zamknięty seems a mere domestic fatwa, Bugajski moved to Canada where paean to free enterprise, populated by almost black- he had to content himself with television features. and-white characters. Certainly, Bugajski’s lacks the Years later, Bugajski returned to the big screen with rigor of Costa-Gavras’ or Francesco Rosi’s political his biopic, General Nił (2009), about a commander thrillers, but he is to be congratulated for reviving of the Polish Home Army executed by Communists. questions about the Polmozbyt Krakow Affair, one Układ zamknięty is set amid the power plays that of the few political scandals of the time that remains overwhelmed Leszek Miller’s government at the unresolved. beginning of the 2000s. Janusz Gajos plays the role of

Salto 1965 Starring: Zbigniew Cybulski, Andrzej Łapicki, Iga Cembrzyńska, Gustaw Holoubeka | Directed by: Tadeusz Konwicki

As an admirer of The Saragossa Manuscript (1965), who jumps from a moving train and into the lives Martin Scorsese would surely also enjoy Tadeusz of the inhabitants of a rural village, where he is Konwicki’s movies, at least the ones infused with hailed both as a prophet and a troublemaker. the zest of surrealism. As an accomplished writer, Before being put to flight by a furious mob, Mr Konwicki can be regarded, even more so than Kowalski-Malinowski leads the villagers in a dream- Wojciech Has, as a foreign body in the Polish like dance called the Salto. The satire on provincial Film School. Salto is an impressive specimen of bigotry is used to examine the mentality of post- Konwicki’s imaginative storytelling, combined with war Poland. Two years later, a twist of real-life fate a brilliant soundtrack by Wojciech Kilar. Cybulski killed Cybulski when he fell attempting to jump plays the role of Mr Kowalski-Malinowski (a duo onto a moving train in Wrocław station. of common Polish surnames), a cheeky Everyman

16 17 18 19 Enjoy calm energy, ﬂexible strength & new awareness Yoga classes in English starting in June Every Wednesday SPRING CLEAN YOUR at 5.45 pm Drop-ins and beginners welcome JOGA CENTRUM ul. Biskupia 18, Kraków Sign up: [email protected] www.jogacentrum.pl BODY AND MIND: FITNESS ■ Magdalena Dudzik

If you’re a tough guy looking for a real English fluently, and Agnieszka Grin- workout challenge, try GTX functional Walaszek of the Yoga Centre is keen to training from the GTX Training Fitness run a class solely in English. It’s also worth Club (ul. Ostatnia 2c). Club manager, mentioning that Yoga Centre offers Switching from your car to a bike for Jakub Podgórski, said: “It’s an innovative special activities for mums and dads with commuting to work, going for long walks, training system that comes from babies or toddlers, as well as prospective professional sport and gives incredible parents, as part of the Conscious hiking in the valleys near Krakow, jogging or results. For us, physical fitness and Parenting Institute. roller skating around Błonia are all pleasant, the health of our clients is the most Last, but not least, swimming is a great important, an improved appearance is form of exercise open to people of all and free, ways of keeping fit. just a side effect.” ages. Krakow’s favourite swimming pool Personally, I’m a great lover of yoga. is at the AGH University Campus (www. It’s not only a pleasant way to achieve basen.agh.edu.pl), where you can find physical fitness, it also provides the: classes for kids as young as three months. t’s not news that physical activity is a This doesn’t mean other gyms are “capacity to live in harmony with yourself The pool is open to all in the mornings Imust if you want to stay fit and healthy. not worth visiting. Fitness Młyn at ul. and the surrounding environment,” as it and evenings on weekdays and all day Luckily, the Polish spring and summer are Przemysłowa 4 (not far from Mocak and says on the Yoga International website long at weekends. much more exercise-friendly than the the Schindler Museums) has some of (www.yogainternational.com.pl), the winter months now behind us. the most comprehensive facilities in our only yoga school in Krakow that offers Switching from your car to a bike for city, including an indoor swimming pool, bilingual instruction and has a website in commuting to work, going for long pole dancing classes, special training English. walks, hiking in the valleys near Krakow programmes for people with disabilities There are a dozen yoga schools in (www.krakowskieokolice.pl), jogging and many activities for seniors and Krakow (see: www.joga.krakow.pl) but or roller skating around Błonia are all children, as well as the standard fitness the biggest and best are Sadhana Yoga pleasant, and free, ways of keeping fit. and gym offers. School at ul. Długa 17 and Yoga Centre However, if you got drastically out of Fitness Platinium is a rapidly growing (Joga Centrum) at ul. Biskupia 18. They shape over the exceptionally long winter, network of fitness clubs with locations at are both conveniently located, have some more advanced measures may be ul. Mogilska 97, ul. Zakopiańska 105 and years of experience and offer classes needed. ul. Lea 213. If you are worried about the at all levels seven days a week. Most of There are many places in Krakow language barrier, ask for classes with Kasia the yoga teachers in both schools speak that can help you get back into shape Bodzioch. And if you would like to join a quickly and efficiently and below is group of runners led by an experienced the short overview of the best. I have coach on one of the 10 running trails in visited most of them myself, or had them the city – inquire about the Run Krakow recommended by friends. They are all project, organised by Fitness Platinium in modern, well-equipped places with cooperation with the City Council and welcoming atmospheres and instructors the Krakow University School of Physical who speak English. Education. There are several dozen fitness clubs Energym Fitness Club, with locations and centres in Krakow to choose from. at ul. Wrocławska 28 and Osiedle Only a few have websites in English, Kolorowe 33, have opening hours that and the most comprehensive are: the cater to night owls and early birds – they Cascada Sports and Recreation Centre welcome clients from 6am to 11pm. As (en.cascada.com.pl), the Wellness Club at well as a wide range of fitness classes Krakow Aquapark (wellness.parkwodny. they also offer more exotic programmes pl) and Manufaktura Zdrowia at the in their well-equipped gym, such as the Krakow Business Park in nearby Zabierzów. mysterious-sounding Muay Thaim and (www.manufakturazdrowia.pl). TRX.

21 Fair Play New EUFA rules could revolutionise Polish football ■ John Gillooley

here is a rather poignant joke doing the cent years, but no one team has monopo- expensive foreign players. The oligarchs of balling income is roughly half that of Scot- Trounds in Krakow. A boy is watching lised the Ekstraklasa. The same cannot be Shakhtar and Zenit St Petersburg will not land’s or Austria’s, it is clear that there is a the football on TV with his father. “Dad,” he said of the countries listed above. be able to buy success so readily. problem. asks, “What’s the Champions League?” Dad When one team in a country is able to This can only be beneficial to Polish In 2011, Wisla Krakow had an annual replies: “I don’t know son, you’ll have to ask win title after title, the money received clubs, where operating costs are much turnover of 55.4m zloty (13.3m Euro) – a your uncle in Łódź.” from playing in the qualifying rounds can lower. One point to consider is that these figure only a little below Legia’s. This rela- It is now a generation since Widzew have a positive impact on the health of restrictions may mean clubs abroad will be tively impressive result was largely a result Łódź became the last Polish team to qual- that country’s domestic football. It creates less willing to invest in large transfer fees of the club playing three rounds of Cham- ify for Europe’s holy grail of club football, a trickle-down effect – the rich club at the for Ekstraklasa players. On the other hand, pions League qualification matches. They and it was only the second to do so. This top provides investment for the rest of the Polish players have tended to be under- lost to APOEL in the third and final quali- is not just Krakow’s problem – 16 years is league as they acquire players from the valued in the European market. Croatian fication stage. Qualification to the group a very long time for Polish teams to have teams below them. Of course, it doesn’t player Luka Modric was purchased from stage would have seen unprecedented been absent from the group stages. Young always work that way. For the money to Dinamo Zagreb for 20m Euro, while Lech levels of revenue, and the opportunity to Poles can watch the likes of Piszczek, be distributed widely, the top club must received only 4.5m Euro for Robert Lewan- pay the wages expected by top quality Błaszczykowski and Lewandowski playing buy domestically. Ukrainian team Shakhtar dowski. Clearly, some countries are more players. It could have been a turning point integral roles in Dortmund’s European run, Donetsk is a good example of this model fashionable than others when it comes to not only for the club, but for the whole of or Szczęsny and Obraniak at Arsenal and not working. It has invested heavily in for- transfer fees. Polish football. Lille respectively, but the dream of seeing eign, particularly, Brazilian players, so other Financially the Polish league cannot If 2011 proved a missed opportunity their own local clubs challenge at this level Ukrainian clubs have not benefited from compete with Europe’s most successful. In for Wisła, the risk now must surely be that is a distant one. Shakhtar’s increased spending power. the 2010–11 season, the English Premier long-term foes, Legia Warsaw, appear to The pressing question is why, when the UEFA’s Financial Fair Play regulations may League brought in an astonishing 2.51 bil- be in the best position to qualify for future likes of Cypriot team APOEL, BATE Borisov offer hope. The new rules are intended to lion Euro from match day income, TV rights Champions League group stages, given from Belarus and Sparta Prague are qualify- prevent clubs from spending more than and commercial revenues. The figure in its excellent youth academy and a quality ing for Europe’s elite competition, are Pol- they earn in the pursuit of success. One aim Poland was a mere 88m Euro. This is hardly stadium. The boy in the joke may, in the ish sides consistently failing to do so? One is to stop clubs getting into debt that may a like-for-like comparison, but the disparity future, know full well what the Champions problem is the lack of a dominant force in threaten their long-term survival, but it will is astonishing. Poland cannot be expected League is – that competition those scoun- Polish football. Lech, Wisła, Sląsk and Legia also prevent billionaire club owners from to measure up against the monolithic EPL, drels from the capital play in. have all challenged for league titles in re- simply gifting cash to be used to purchase but when one considers that Poland’s foot- NA ŁĄCE A little bit of Polish

pszczoła A TY? koszyk Lubisz pikniki?

...... krowa Co pakujesz do koszyka? ...... koniczyna koc motyl Znalazłes kiedyś czterolistną koniczynę? mysz ślimak ......

kwiatek Czy w Krakowie można iść na łąkę? robaczek ...... © by M. Gałęziowska & Accent School of Polish & Accent School M. Gałęziowska © by żaba biedronka trawa TOPICAL POLISH! with the Accent School of Polish majówka (noun, f) grillować (verb; ja grilluję, ty grillujesz) pachnący (adj. m) wybuch (noun, m) a spring outing to have a barbecue fragrant an explosion

Majówka to krótki wyjazd za miasto w maju. W długi weekend majowy chętnie grillu- Maj w Polsce to pikniki na pachnących Wybuchy w Bostonie zaszokowały cały świat. ‘Majówka’ is a short trip out of the city taken in jemy. łąkach. The explosions in Boston shocked the entire May. During the long May weekend, we enjoy having May in Poland means picnics in fragrant world. barbecues. meadows.

For more Polish visit www.polishforforeigners.com! New Polish courses starting in May at Accent School of Polish! Tales from the chalkface Dear Luiza… Assemblies ■ Chris Riley “…it almost feels like we’re an old married couple” Assemblies are to students what meetings are to teachers – an observation based on my own experiences of this typical school ritual. My own memories of assemblies (and I’ve sat through so many) tend to be a blur of comfortable boredom and some- shows up to present certificates to the Stu- Dear Luiza, times uncomfortable, squashed-up bore- dent of the Month. More importantly, there My boyfriend and I have been together for so ups. Frankly, this appalled me. Scheduled sex dom, forced to sit cross legged on the floor. is also a small financial prize. The worthy many years, it almost feels like we’re an old tastes no better than sticking your tongue out I don’t have to do this nowadays, so there winner gets the chance to spend a little married couple. With it has come the prob- of the window! What do you think? I hope you are some advantages to running the show, cash at Massolit bookshop. We fondly be- lem of boredom in bed. To spice things up, have some better ideas. as occasionally I do. lieve the virtuous one will purchase a book we went to a therapist who suggested that Yours annoyed In the past, when the majority shared a and add to their store of scholarship and we schedule sex in our daily routine, along set of religious beliefs, it was clear why this learning, though I’m given to understand with taking multi-vitamins and doing sit- meeting was also a daily act of worship. that treating your friends to delicious Mas- There would d be a hymn, a prayer, a lec- solit cheesecake and coffee is also a popu- ture from the head teacher, then notices. lar option. Either way, virtue is rewarded. Dear Annoyed, There are schools in the UK where this One assembly memorable for its con- You have a point. The down side of sched- a jazz club or doing some karaoke on the still happens, but in most, assemblies are troversy was given by a head teacher who uled sex is that it rarely meets our expecta- Rynek. now a weekly event, and that’s how it is in wanted to shake our community out of tions for intimacy and often re-enforces the You could also light a candle at home and, my school too. There’s still music, but taken complacency. A few weeks before the Euro very sense of disconnectedness and bore- sitting opposite, look each other deep in from a broader church. It doesn’t help that 2012 championships last year, he showed dom we’re trying to overcome. the eyes and tell your partner all the things our rooms can’t hold the whole school. parts of a documentary made by the BBC’s Being there actually is half the battle, but if you like about them. You may kiss, you may The older students, whose time is taken Panorama team about racism in Polish that’s all you’re doing, you’re missing out on touch hands, feet, face, back, shoulders and up with ever present exams, don’t get to football. Much of what we saw merited the other half. Contrary to your sex thera- so on, but leave it there – no genitals, no be squeezed together so often. Recently, discussion, but assemblies aren’t places to pist, I would put you in a three-week, no-sex ‘core’ play. senior assemblies have become a monthly discuss anything so the conversation was quarantine. Three weeks is a long time. It’s easier said than done but, from where event and are low-key affairs. fragmented. At least it wasn’t boring. I would still have you taking time off to be you are right now, it might well work. In The aim nowadays is to praise students, Perhaps my next assembly will be about together, but for foreplay only. This means three weeks time, you will be bursting to get rather than whatever god anyone believes how to create interest without offence. If an early evening walk on the Planty, or a together and unite physically. in, if they believe in one at all. The head only I knew how. bike ride along the Wisła. Maybe going to Yours optimistically, Louiza.

24 Krakow is an impressively photogenic city This year’s theme is fashion – not just the that also happens to host one of the major glossy images of beautiful models that photography events in Europe – Krakow grace fashions mags, but every aspect Photomonth. The festival has grown from of what we wear and what it says about humble beginnings in 2002 and now us, as captured by a highly diverse range attracts major exhibitions from world of photographers. As usual, the main famous practitioners while continuing to programme is supplemented by more support and encourage young, home- than enough events, meetings and master grown photographers. classes to satisfy any lens jockey. www.photomonth.com

THE LIMITS OF FASHION Simon Menner, From a Disguise Seminar, 2010–2012 © Simon Menner

The main programme opens with an exhibition entitled The Limits of Fashion, which features work from 20 photographers or photographic teams. Held at Bunkier Sztuki (Plac Szczepański 3a), Photomonth’s organisers describe it as: “the key to understanding the broad definition of fashion adopted for the… whole of this year’s festival programme.”

Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery Looks FEATURED PHOTOGRAPHERS © Fergus Greer As always, top-flight photographers from around the globe will have exhibitions during Photomonth. United under the fashion theme, they nevertheless encompass the full range and history of photographic artistry.

Milou Abel (born 1990, Netherlands) F.C. Gundlach (born 1926, Germany) Tadeusz Rolke (born 1929, Poland) Exhibition: I Am You Exhibition: Vanity. Fashion Photograph Exhibition: Rolke Studio ZPAF Gallery The National Museum in Krakow MOCAK ul. Św. Tomasza 24 al. 3 Maja 1 ul. Lipowa 4

Corinne Day (1962–2010, UK) SHOWstudio (UK) Synchrodogs (Ukraine) Exhibition: Early Days Exhibition: Fashion Film Exhibition: Crypsis Pauza Gallery Angel Wawel New Roman Gallery ul. Floriańska 18/5 ul. Koletek 12 ul. Krasickiego 9/8

Ghislain Dussart (1924–1996, France) Walter Pfeiffer (born 1946, Switzerland) Roy Villevoye (born 1960, Netherlands) Exhibition: Collages Exhibition: In Love With Beauty Exhibition: Red Calico MOCAK Starmach Gallery The Etnographic Museum of Kraków ul. Lipowa 4 ul. Węgierska 5 ul. Krakowska 46 ShowOFF 2013 The ever-popular ShowOFF section, which showcases the work of young Polish photographers, is bigger and better than ever before this year. Among a record number of submissions for the 2013 show was work from Ukrainian, Belarusian and Czech photographers for the first time. The work of ten photographers will feature in exhibitions at galleries around the city. www.photomonth.com 1998 Pirimapún, Asmat, Papua Saráw, Andreas Villevoye, Roy x 125 cm slide, 190 C - print from Brussels, BE Gallery, Motive Courtesy Walter Pfeiffer, Untitled, 2004 C-Print, 59 x 39,5 cm © Walter Pfeiffer / Pro Litteris

OTHER EVENTS Photomonth’s accompanying SlideNite. The shows will be events are an integral part the divided into thematic blocks: the festival programme. The whole most interesting Polish photomonth will see workshops and reportage of the last year, covers meetings with artists, including, from leading contemporary and this year, the new Masters Series historical fashion magazines, meetings – an opportunity to and a presentation of the results meet and get to know interesting of the international photo.mov artists. Additionally, Portfolio photography competition. Review is a unique opportunity to As if that wasn’t enough, there get valuable tips from experts. is a whole raft of events under Once again, Photomonth will the Krakow Photo Fringe include the hugely popular umbrella. Get involved at: www. outdoor slideshows known as krakowfringe.com

Facebook / Krakowphotogroup

ith Krakow Photomonth straddling to help them get the most from their new Krakow. We are privileged to live in one of Wthis and next month, now is the equipment. the most photogenic and photo friendly cit- perfect time to introduce the Krakow Pho- I sat down to arrange a Facebook event ies in Europe. tography Group. Created by David McGirr, for my friends and, partly out of curiosity We have had already held some events, the Krakow Post’s Managing Director and and partly remembering my forlorn search workshops and photo walks, and plan to resident photographer, the Krakow Photog- for an English language photography group hold regular events and meetings over the raphy Group is a recently established forum in Krakow, I opened the group to the public. coming months. Our next outing is planned for both expat and Polish photography The response was immediate and positive. for May 18 – a combined bike ride and enthusiasts to get together and share their It attracted dozens of new members in the group photo session. ideas, experience and the occasional beer. first few hours and has grown to 215 mem- The Krakow photography group is open David explains what makes the group bers from more than 18 nations in just eight to anyone, whatever your nationality. Expe- special: weeks. rience and equipment are not important. It I have many photographer friends in Despite the large number of Polish pho- doesn’t matter if you have a camera phone, Krakow and, several years ago, started look- tography groups already established, we a compact, or the latest DSLR with all the kit ing for an English language photography have many Polish members, more than any – the group is about friends sharing ideas group, which I didn’t find. I did not pursue other nationality, which is particularly pleas- and helping each other to get the most out it at the time because I fully, and foolishly, ing. of our hobby. In short, it’s about having fun expected to be fluent in Polish by the time I I deliberately avoided calling it a ‘club.’ In and discovering how great photography retired here in 2011. my experience, ‘club’ suggests a hierarchy can be when you move away from Full Auto I still have a long way to go to reach fluen- committees, constitutions, rules and com- mode – it’s about creativity, not kit. cy, so when a few friends took the leap and petitiveness – all things that can be intimi- We are also looking for a volunteer to From Photography Group events: upgraded from point-and-shoot compacts dating for a beginner. All I want is for people help put together a simple website and Above: Gokhan Cukurova to DSLR cameras, they asked me if we could to get out with their cameras, enjoy their to improve on my tongue-in-cheek Smok Middle: Mariela Muse have a few photography sessions together photography and enjoy photographing Wawelski Photographer logo. Right: David McGirr Photography Group 28 HER 1 3 4 2 STORY Discovering 5 Krakow’s Great Women 6 ■ Text: Alicja Drapała

The Krakow Post and FREEwalkingTOUR.com 7 invite you to walk in the footsteps of strong and creative women from Krakow’s history. Some of them 8 are famous, some are now almost forgotten, but all were admirable.

1 ul. Lubicz 24/2 2 Słowacki Theatre, Plac Słowackiego 3 Corner of ul. Karmelicka and ul. Garbarska Pelagia Bednarska Helena Modrzejewska King Jadwiga’s ( 1902–1981 ) ( 1840–1909 ) Footprint Pelagia Bednarska was one of the first women in Poland to Helena Modrzejewska was the first Polish actress to achieve At the end of the 14th century, Poland was ruled by a wom- receive a master craftsman’s diploma in photography. She success in the United States. She was considered one of the an, though she was called a king. Jadwiga was crowned moved from Silesia to Krakow with her family just before most beautiful women of her era, and was immortalized in when she was just 10 years old. Young and virtuous, she the outbreak of World War II and started a photographic many portraits. She was born in Krakow and, though her was beloved by the people, and there are many legends workshop in their flat on ul. Lubicz. Bednarska, her husband career took her to London and across the Atlantic, she about her life. One of these legends is connected with the and their children were all deeply involved in the Polish re- loved to perform in the Słowacki Theatre. Modrzejewska Carmelite Church on ul. Karmelicka. According to the story, sistance during the war. Their apartment became a safe emigrated to the United States at the age of 36, and soon Jadwiga visited the church when it was under construction house for the storage of weapons and explosives and was established herself as a highly respected actress, despite and saw one of the stonemasons weeping. She discovered used to train resistance fighters. In 1941, she was arrested never losing her accent or completely mastering English. that his wife was ill but that he could not afford a doctor. and spent some time in the dreaded Montelupich Prison. In the US, she used the stage name Helena Modjeska. She Jadwiga put her foot up on one of the stone blocks, took After her release, she became involved in preparing cop- was most famous for her roles in Shakespeare’s plays, par- the golden buckle from her shoe and gave it to the mason. ies of letters from prisoners detailing conditions in prisons ticularly as Ophelia and Juliet. Despite living in the US, she When she left, the workers noticed that there was a foot- and Nazi concentration camps in Poland. It was Bednarska regularly visited Poland, often staying at the Pollera Hotel print on the solid stone. The block was built into the wall of who developed the first photos of Auschwitz taken by the across the street from the Słowacki Theatre. the church and can still be seen today, behind an iron grill Polish resistance. near the corner of ul. Garbarska. 4 Plac Szczepański 9 5 ul. Piłsudskiego 21 6 Planty, opposite the Krakow Philharmonic Wislawa Szymborska Olga Boznanska Maria Jarema ( 1923–2012 ) ( 1865–1940 ) ( 1908–1958 )

Nobel-prize winning poet Wisława Szymborska spent most The top floor of this building once housed the summer Thousands of people walk past this unusual fountain ev- of her life in Krakow, and was one of Poland’s, and the city’s, studio of Olga Boznańska, perhaps the most famous fe- ery day, but few could tell you exactly what it represents, most beloved celebrities. She lived in a rather nondescript male Polish painter. The daughter of a Polish railway en- and even fewer who designed it. The fountain was placed tower block in the suburbs of Krakow, but the intriguing gineer and a French artist, she studied art in Krakow and here in 2006, but the woman who created it, Maria Jarema, contents of her home are now part of a permanent exhibi- Munich. She lived most of her life in Paris but always spent died almost 50 years earlier, in 1958. Jarema, who was also tion at the Szołayski House branch of the National Museum summers in Krakow, despite once describing the city as known as Jaremianka, studied at the Academy of Fine Arts in Krakow. Szymborska once said that the drawer was hu- provincial and lifeless. Boznańska designed the studio, and in Krakow, where she majored in sculpture. During World manity’s greatest invention and the huge set of drawers in its huge window, herself. The window is still clearly evident War II, a shortage of materials prompted her to turn to which she kept her vast collection of knick-knacks forms from the street outside, and it features in several of the painting, and she is better known as a painter than a sculp- the centre of the exhibition, unsurprisingly titled ‘Szymbo- works she produced in Krakow. During the last years of her tor today. She designed the fountain, which represents rska’s Drawer.’ life she became less productive as an artist and the house Chopin’s piano, in 1949 and it was originally intended to in Krakow became her main source of income. stand in Krakowski Park. Instead, the finished sculpture lan- guished in a storeroom of the National Museum in Krakow for decades before being installed on the Planty. Sarah Schenirer House of Esther Helena Rubinstein ( 1883–1935 ) ( Dom Esterki ) ( 1872–1965 )

This building was where Sara Schenirer set up the world’s Now a branch of Krakow’s Ethnographic Museum, this This small and rather simple building is the birthplace of first academy for training women to educate Jewish girls building is said to have been the 14th-century home of Es- one of the richest women in history. Helena Rubinstein’s about their faith. Schenirer was born and raised in Kra- terka, a Jewish woman who, according to legend, was the story was an American dream come true. Born into a poor kow. She became a seamstress at the age of 13, when her mistress of King Casimir the Great (r. 1333–70). Regarded as Jewish family in Krakow she was named Chaya by her parents could no longer afford to pay for her education. fact for centuries, but now treated with greater scepticism, parents. In 1902, she emigrated to Australia looking for a Before World War I, it was uncommon for Jewish girls to the tale of Esterka says that she had four children with the better life. She changed her name to Helena and started a be educated beyond a basic level. Sarah decided to cre- king, but could never be his queen because of her faith. business producing cosmetics based on formulas she had ate a school where young Jewish ladies could learn more Some historical sources attribute the extension of privi- learned in Krakow. The idea was a huge success, turning about Judaism. She held the first classes in her apartment leges and rights to Jews during Casimir’s reign as the result Helena into one of the most famous and influential busi- (ul. Św. Katarzyny 1/7) and the initiative grew rapidly into a of Esterka’s influence over the king. Ul. Estery in Kazimierz is ness women of the 20th century. One step at a time, she network of schools across the world. Known as Bais Yaakov named after Esterka and is the only street in the historical conquered Melbourne, London and New York. Her motto: schools, they were supported by some the most influential part of Krakow named after a woman. Until the late 1940s, there are no ugly women, only lazy ones. The Helena Ru- rabbis of the period. In 1923, Schenirer set up the teacher there was a commemorative mound in the Łobzów district binstein brand is still going strong today. training academy on ul. Św. Stanisława to provide educa- said to have been raised by King Casimir in her honour. tors for these schools.

7 ul. Św. Stanisława 10 8 ul. Krakowska 46 9 ul. Szeroka 14

The Her Story tour is part of the FREE Walking Project organised by the Free FREE walking TOUR guides also provide tours of the Old Town (everyday, 10.00 Walking Tour Foundation. Every Saturday until the end of June, you can join AM and 3.30 PM), and Jewish Kraków (everyday, 11.00 AM and 3.00 PM). Details our tour guides in front of St. Mary’s church at 10.30 am and discover parts of can be found at Krakow you never knew about. FREEwalkingTOUR.com and the FREE walking TOUR fanpage on Facebook. 30 TEDxKids@Kraków

Think innovation and creativity are only for adults? Think again. The world is full of creative kids with great ideas and this May, TEDxKids@Kraków will provide an understanding forum for this untapped talent.

■ Agata Lagodzinski

“The idea behind TEDxKids@Kraków is to give children a public transport; Bogusz Mąkowski, who will share his vaca- event. Aged just 11, he founded an online recommenda- place to tell the world about what inspires them and what tion adventure; Mikołaj Sazonov, comparing dreams to real- tion tool for computer games, called GameTeller.net, which they think is important. To show that, even though they’re ity; Anna Sazonov, talking about the importance of positive secured him second prize at the 2012 Krakow Startup Week- children, they deserve to be taken seriously,” said TEDxKraków thinking; Jakub Zając, showcasing his computer graphics; end. “It is worth following your dreams. If someone tells you curator, Ewa Spohn. Mikołaj Szydłowski, talking about robots and guitars; Kostek that something is impossible, don’t listen to them,” he advised Last year’s TEDxKids@Kraków was the first of its kind in Po- Kubicki, on the mysteries of Sarmatia; Zofia Wojtkowiak, ex- the audience at last year’s conference. Krystian writes blogs, land and this year’s conference is expected to be one of the plaining how passions have influenced her life; and Maja produces YouTube videos and runs Kids on Bits workshops. biggest TEDxKids events in the world, with more than 200 Gędłek on the importance of following your dreams. He is just one example of Krakow’s creative kids, many more youngsters registered to attend presentations to be given by “The goal of TEDxKids is to let kids talk about their ideas, of whom will be taking the stage this May. ten speakers aged 9 to 14. The event has the support of Kra- how they make them happen and how their actions influ- TEDxKids@Kraków will take place on Friday, May 17 from kow’s Uniwersytet Dzieci (Children’s University), a non-profit ence their peers, their school environment, their friendships 17:00 to 20:00 at the Centrum Dydaktyki AGH (Education organization dedicated to providing educational programs and their families,” said TEDxKids volunteer, Natalia Iwan. Centre at the University of Science and Technology). Partici- for children aged 6 to13. Last year, the theme was Passion Lives and the programme pation is free, but requires registration. For more information The theme this year is Działaj! (Act), intended to call kids to featured ten kids presenting their thoughts on topics as di- see: tedxkrakow.com, where you can also see videos of last action and encourage them to find an idea and start making verse as the weather’s influence on history, explaining com- year’s event. it happen. Presenters include: Kacper Oleński, who will talk plex ideas using models, and how to be a child entrepreneur. about the importance of travelling; Antoni Iwan, discussing Krystian Gontarek was just one of the stars of last year’s BEER PuBs EvEnts OffERs nEws

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