FALL EVENING COUTURE HOUR DONATELLA MARNI INTRODUCES A NEW VERSACE KICKS OFF COLLECTION FOCUSED MAINLY COUTURE SEASON IN PARIS. PAGE 9 ON EVENINGWEAR. PAGE 10

A THRIVING SECTOR Couture’s New Wave: Faces, Shows, Markets

By MILES SOCHA

PARIS — Couture Week, which kicked off Sunday, looks as fizzy as a glass of Ruinart Blanc de Blancs WWD Champagne. The shows over the next four days will feature a variety of fashion comebacks — from double Dutch to major league, plus a mystery one — along with enough MONDAY, JULY 1, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY parties to empty a wine cellar. Meanwhile, couture’s biggest names cite sus- tained demand, as clients from Brazil and Asia dis- cover the rare and exclusive hand-wrought clothes and accessories. Varsity “It is good to see couture attracting a newfound attention,” declared Giorgio Armani, who joined the high-fashion calendar in 2005. “The more designers who aspire to couture status, the better for fashion in general. For this reason, I applaud anything that Player maintains couture in good health.” Novelties this week are headlined by a one- time tribute collection for Schiaparelli by Christian Lacroix, whose couture house was shuttered in 2009, The Paris men’s shows and the return of Viktor & Rolf to the high fashion climaxed with Hedi Slimane’s stage after a 13-year absence. At his show today, French designer Eric Tibusch is second collection for Saint promising “an exclusive collaboration with a famous Laurent. After a grunge- fashion designer, who signs his comeback.…We will call him C.M.” Could it be Claude Montana? (Tibusch fueled debut, he imagined won’t spill.) stage clothes for a band Designers from China, the Middle East and Russia of modern-day Teddy Boys, are gravitating to the French capital as a platform to burnish their brand image, and to capture the hordes mainly chopstick-thin pants, of high-end tourists who make fashion and cultural a roomier jacket — at least pilgrimages here. New on the schedule, with shows running through Thursday, is Shandong-born, Paris- by Hedi’s standards — and based Lawrence Xu. And there are more to come: Fifties sportswear. Here, his Beijing-based organization Fashion Inlife has drawn mock-neck sweater and glossy up a five-year plan to promote Chinese couturiers on the international stage. varsity jacket, with dripping Couture workrooms are also ready for their close-up. fangs etched in crystals on the The Chambre Syndicale, French fashion’s organizing back. For more on the men’s SEE PAGE 9 shows, and the kickoff to couture, see pages 4 to 9. Century 21 Ups Ante

By DAVID MOIN

SPRING 2014 AT CENTURY 21, panache is creeping into presenta- tion, and that’s not easy for a low-cost business ruled by deep discounts, piled-high product and value- PARIS crazed crowds. MEN’S Century 21 is planning “The Palace,” a COLLECTIONS 3,500-square-foot penthouse format at the downtown Manhattan flagship designed to spotlight high-end designers, either individually or in group shows to project a trend or a category such as vintage jewelry. The Palace will have a private entrance on the cor- ner of Church and Dey Streets, for an aura of exclu- sivity, and will operate as an event space to enhance designer partnerships through shopping parties, ex- hibits and VIP sales, which will, officials say, mirror the designers’ most prestigious locations. It will open this fall, with access to members only, and focus on four-day flash sales. Also in the works: Q A new facade for the flagship, which has its main entrance on Cortlandt Street, that will wrap the ex- terior with improved lighting, awnings and open up windows that have been sealed up, and feature three new elevators and a glass staircase for better traffic flow. Q A 3,000-square-foot studio on Church Street to be used for conducting interviews with stylists and pho- tographers, for fashion shoots and to support efforts to get deeper into social media. The idea is to elevate the online content and quality of e-commerce with collaborations and better talent. PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 12 2 WWD MONDAY, JULY 1, 2013 WWD.COM Italia Independent Shares Gain THE BRIEFING BOX its total shares, priced at 26 euros, or $33.80, with IN TODAY’S WWD By LUISA ZARGANI a market capitalization of around 60 million euros, or $78 million. Elkann now owns 48.8 percent of the MILAN — Italia Independent looks like a stock group, and Tessitore 8.8 percent. market hit. Elkann, wearing a turquoise double-breast- To ensure growth without piling on debt, Lapo ed made-to-measure suit by Italia Independent On the street in Paris. Elkann’s Italia Independent Group SpA turned to in collaboration with the storied tailoring firm For more, see WWD.com. the AIM Italia Alternative Capital Market, a seg- Santandrea, was visibly happy and proud, sur- ment of the Italian Stock Exchange for small and rounded by his longtime partners and friends, in- medium-sized companies, where shares began trad- cluding Vogue Italia editor in chief Franca Sozzani, ing on Friday, closing up 16.2 percent at 30.20 euros, who introduced Elkann to Raffaele Jerusalmi, ceo or $39.20 at current exchange. of the Bourse. “A dinner together in October led “Our name sums up our views. We bring Italy to the listing. It’s a great satisfaction, John [Lapo’s and its beauty around the world, and we are proud brother and Fiat president] and I were the first to of this, while we maintain our independence,” said support him,” she said, pointing to a Uomo Vogue Elkann, chairman of the group, during the celebra- cover with the young entrepreneur in January tory event held to mark the listing. 2007. Asked what Elkann’s main talent was, Sozzani “This is not a conventional choice. To be funded by quickly responded, “His creativity, and he is sup- DABROWSKI banks is very difficult today, and we want to maintain ported by a strong team.” our independence, without selling a stake to funds, The event also drew Moncler head Remo KUBA which have short-term strategies, or outside inves- Ruffini, who is said to be eyeing an initial public BY tors,” said chief executive officer Andrea Tessitore. offering once again. “The weather being so cold, PHOTO “We are here for the long run,” he said, adding that you could have decided to go public, too,” said there is an 18-month management lockup. Jarusalmi, addressing Ruffini and the unseasonably Luca Peyrano, head of Italy and Continental cool June morning. The shows during Paris Couture Week will feature a variety of Europe Primary Markets at the Italian Stock “[Brunello] Cucinelli, [Salvatore] Ferragamo, fashion comebacks. PAGE 1 Exchange, said the listing marks a turnaround Moncler, this is a beautiful Italy, there are so many for small and medium-size companies. “Here is a people of value, it’s an honor to be part of them,” Century 21 is planning “The Palace,” a 3,500-square-foot young, dynamic company galloping away, with pros- said Elkann, referring to the first two as listed penthouse format at the downtown Manhattan flagship pects of big growth ahead,” said Peyrano. “This is a companies. “Even if we are small, we will work designed to spotlight high-end designers. PAGE 1 story to tell for the future.” to become bigger. It’s an achievement for us to be The AIM segment was unveiled in January, here, and we hope to go onto the main market,” he Italia Independent shares began trading on Friday on the blending two previous markets called AIM Italia added. Peyrano explained this step can be taken AIM Italia Alternative Capital Market, closing up 16.2 percent and MAC. There are a total of 27 companies cur- after 18 months on the AIM. at 30.20 euros, or $39.20 at current exchange. PAGE 2 rently listed and five, including Italia Independent, The seven-year-old group, which also includes have joined since the launch. Elkann’s group is the communications and advertising agency Independent H&M on Wednesday will unveil its long-awaited store at 497- first fashion company to bow on the AIM. Ideas, which has worked with companies such as 501 Fulton Street in Brooklyn, N.Y. PAGE 2 The funds collected through the listing will go Gucci, Moschino and Diesel, last year reported prof- toward buying back a minority stake held by out- its of 907,000 euros, or $1.2 million, compared with side investors, among them Brama Sportswear, for 149,000 euros, or $193,000, in 2011, on sales of 15.6 mil- Pierre Bergé attended the Saint Laurent men’s show in about 20 million euros, or $26 million, and also to- lion euros, or $20.3 million, up from 9.6 million euros, Paris on Sunday accompanied by the director and star of a ward developing the brand around the world, with or $12.5 million, in the previous year. new biopic on Yves Saint Laurent, Jalil Lespert. PAGE 9 the opening of between four and seven directly op- In the first quarter, earnings before interest, erated stores in Europe — Spain and France — and taxes, depreciation and amortization gained 325 Couture week got off to a glittering start Sunday with the U.S. The first unit is expected to open in Milan percent to 897,000 euros, or $1.2 million, on sales Donatella Versace’s Atelier Versace show and after party, in the Golden Shopping Triangle by the end of the of 5 million euros, or $6.5 million, up 176 percent held a stone’s throw from the Arc de Triomphe. PAGE 9 year. Tessitore said this does not mean the company compared with the same period the previous year. plans to become a retail group, but that it is moving In 2012, the brand was available at 1,400 points Loewe’s new handbag design was designed by brand away from a franchised model. of sale and counted 50 shops-in-shop. The company ambassador Penélope Cruz and her sister, Mónica. PAGE 9 The Turin-based company listed 27 percent of opened a subsidiary in Miami six months ago. Marni is unveiling its Evening Collection, a line dedicated to women’s evening clothes and accessories. PAGE 10

German watchmaker Glashütte Original is launching the H&M Set to Open Brooklyn Store Pavonina women’s timepiece collection. PAGE 10

of H&M. “We’re [pleased] to open our second store Tommy Hilfiger By SHARON EDELSON in one of the biggest boroughs in New York City and is teaming up with Los Angeles shoe designer George Esquivel to launch a limited-edition contribute to the revitalization of the downtown PAGE 10 NEW YORK — H&M’s long-awaited store at 497-501 area and of Fulton Mall itself.” collection for men and women.

Fulton Street in Brooklyn is almost here. “Opening in downtown Brooklyn is a major mile- The Swedish retailer on Wednesday will unveil stone for us,” added a spokeswoman. “We believe in Fashion titles for the covers of their September issues are a 29,000-square-foot store on the heavily trafficked Brooklyn very much. It’s an important part of our banking on reliable bestsellers with all-American sex appeal shopping thoroughfare that’s been in the throes of strategy for expansion in New York City.” and relatability, and TV starlets. PAGE 11 gentrification for several years. H&M will trumpet The retailer is stepping up its involvement in its arrival with a block party replete with music, the community by sponsoring the H&M concert se- Gérard Pipart, the designer of Nina Ricci couture for more games, food and prizes such as H&M gift cards and ries at Williamsburg Park this summer. than 30 years, died on Friday following a long illness. PAGE 12 concert tickets. It will be hosted by Power 105.1 Brooklyn has been a hot topic for retailers re- and DJ EmEz. On the day cently. TJ Maxx is bowing ON WWD.COM of the opening, H&M will on Fulton Street in August, offer the first 250 shoppers A rendering of the new H&M store along with Swarovski. A|X THEY ARE WEARING: WWD goes off the runways and onto in line an H&M T-shirt and on Fulton Street in Brooklyn. Armani Exchange last year the streets and sidewalks for some of the best looks from an Access to Fashion Pass unveiled a 6,500-square- Paris Men’s Fashion Week. For more, see WWD.com. worth $10 to $300. foot store at City Point, Historically, the retailer a 1.9 million-square-foot has seen crowds line up — mixed-use development on TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. sometimes 300 deep — for Fulton Street and Flatbush WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. the launch of its most popular Avenue. Century 21 also COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. designer collaborations and occupies part of the retail VOLUME 206, NO. 1. MONDAY, JULY 1, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two additional for certain store openings. space. Earlier this month, issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine The store will operate from J. Crew confirmed it has Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday leased space for a two-level Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, through Saturday, and 11 a.m. store at 151 Court Street and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver to 8 p.m. on Sunday. The store in Brooklyn. Nordstrom is Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North on Wednesday will open at likely to open its first Rack Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. noon, when the block party will begin. unit on Fulton Street, the borough’s busiest shop- Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or News about H&M opening a store on Fulton ping street, this year. inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine Street first emerged in 2008. At the time, the re- H&M’s new Fulton Street store will carry col- is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. tailer anticipated opening the store in 2010, but lections for men, women, young men and young You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt construction delays due to a nearby subway station women, with separate shops-in-shop for accesso- of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request pushed the opening back to spring 2011. More de- ries, lingerie, sports apparel and maternity. The for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at lays followed. store will also offer the Swedish retailer’s chil- www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that H&M operates one existing store in the borough, dren’s collection for ages newborn to 14, as well we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at a unit at Kings Plaza shopping center that opened as the plus line, H&M+. One of the world’s largest P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED in late 2001. “Since our first U.S. store opened on users of organic cotton, H&M will feature its sus- ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER Fifth Avenue in 2000, we’ve focused on expanding tainable fashion collection at the new store. UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR to the best locations throughout the greater New H&M operates 12 stores in Manhattan, one in DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A York City area,” said Daniel Kulle, U.S. president Queens and one in Staten Island. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. BONUS DISTRIBUTION: Outdoor Retailer

OUTDOOR

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REACHING THE INDUSTRY’S DECISION-MAKERS

OUTDOOR RETAILER ISSUE: 7/31 SPACE CLOSE: 7/17

For more information, contact Pamela Firestone, Associate Publisher, WWD at 212.630.3935 or pamela_fi [email protected]

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Lanvin Saint Laurent

SPRING 2014 PARIS MEN’S COLLECTIONS

Outer Limits

The men’s Lanvin: What is formal, and what is Saint Laurent: Rock style is the his freewheeling plays on shows in Paris informal? That’s a question many opposite of a passing fancy for formalwear (leather lapels designers seem to be grappling Hedi Slimane, whose second and sparkles galore) and his ended on a with for spring 2014, including men’s show for Saint Laurent fancy Fifties varsity jackets daring note, as Alber Elbaz and his men’s wear was an ode to an imaginary in gleaming satin with crystal designer Lucas Ossendrijver. band of beanpole Teddy embroideries on the back. designers pushed “You can’t just hold a mirror Boys. Hair slicked back into There’s a force behind boundaries in to the street,” Elbaz mused ducktails, tight pants hitched reputation and design conviction, backstage. Instead, he and to the navel, his gangly young and as costumey as his collection tailoring, blending Ossendrijver absorbed athletic models made up in attitude sometimes appeared, it is bound in elements and skater influences — which what they lacked in body mass. to be influential. have been seen all over European There are some who see of sports and runways — into their industrial- little of the late Yves Saint Hermès: Nobody does the street. tinged luxury universe. Laurent’s legacy in Slimane’s inconspicuous consumption There was a common thread music-obsessed makeover quite like Hermès. For her between snug three-button jackets of the house, exemplified by spring men’s collection, — which looked fresh — worn his grunge-fueled debut and Véronique Nichanian took over billowing “Great Gatsby” the recent casting of Marilyn her cue from loungewear for trousers, and off-kilter jersey Manson in an ad campaign. Yet tie-print jackets and pants scoop-necked tank tops and Additional variables included T-shirts paired with matching the young fashion constituents that looked as comfortable linen T-shirts with buttons no sleeves, short sleeves or jogging pants. They’re both suits: he seems to be targeting — they as pajamas, and baby-soft running down one shoulder. full sleeves; and for bottoms, one for business, one for leisure. of the 27-inch waistline, like lambskin coats that were belted The clean shapes put stovepipe pants or shorts. Like other designers in Harry Brant, who sat front row like dressing gowns. the emphasis on the house’s As models whisked through Paris, Elbaz and Ossendrijver with the likes of Milla Jovovich The designer played with extraordinary craftsmanship. a mirrored maze for the finale, didn’t commit to a single — won’t question the cool factor opposites, like a navy cotton For some, it might require a re- the multiple choices fractured silhouette, yet crystallized the of sparkly crooner jackets, bolo jumpsuit worn with crocodile mortgage, but these sumptuous further into infinite reflections, quest for youthful tailoring that ties and cropped Western boots slippers, or a python bomber clothes were to buy now, wear now. producing a dazzling effect. has defined the season. Jackets in Pepto-Bismol pink. jacket dressed down with a white The cocktail party circuit ran the gamut from abbreviated The presence of designers T-shirt and sandals. Even the Dior Homme: With cool, October- during Art Basel Miami — and waist hugging to long and including Azzedine Alaïa house’s trademark prints were like weather lingering in Paris, which found Van Assche feeling boxy; trousers from HotPants and Rei Kawakubo, almost muffled — as in the trompe-l’oeil the deep, autumnal palette incongruous wearing black-tie short to stovepipe slim. invisible in the third row of “Cheval ombré” motif, a negative that European designers have on the beach — sparked the What stood out across the the retailer section, speak image of a horse, barely visible been peddling for spring 2014 is intermingling of formal and multitude of options were the to Slimane’s stature on the on a black sweatshirt. starting to make perfect sense. informal on the runway. The sumptuous, often feminine fashion scene. And there was With a couple of canvas At Dior Homme, Kris Van satin usually found on tuxedo fabrics and a luscious palette: plenty of striking design here: Windbreakers, her less-is- Assche generously poured on lapels turned up as glossy color-blocked shirts in crisp an army green cotton parka more aesthetic flirted with the the Bordeaux — plus a gorgeous T-shirts under suits, or on the silk-viscose blends, and cut like a tailcoat; a patchwork banal. But the simplicity of this range of smoky blues — for a yoke of a garage-man jacket. billowing macs in lustrous leather jacket in a racing-flag lineup was also its greatest mix-and-match collection of Utility and retro influences bonded wool and mohair. pattern; minimalist waistcoats strength. What could be easier minimalist tailoring. whispered through, in the utility The show climaxed with a that were little more than vest than slipping a sailor-style “It’s really about choice,” pockets and petrol-station parade of athletic tanks and points on a harness. linen top over a pair of turned- he explained backstage, noting colors. Geometric patchworks, diaphanous varsity jackets Compelling, too, were his up cotton pants? that during fittings, some another expression of endless streaked with glossy lamé variety of youthful jackets It was just one of several models looked best in boxy variation, worked best on crisp panels, as if the NBA playoffs (chopstick thin, bolero short, alternatives to the formal dress suits; others in athletic fits; still shirts and spongy sweaters. moved to the Opéra Garnier. or roomier and elongated), shirt, which also included others in elongated jackets. Knowing the lousy weather WWD MONDAY, JULY 1, 2013 5 WWD.COM

Dior Homme Givenchy KEENAN STEFANIE AND GIANNONI GIOVANNI FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE

WWD.com/ ACHARD, runway.

Comme des DELPHINE

Garçons Thom Paul BY Hermès Homme Plus Browne Smith PHOTOS has been dampening moods from the blizzard of prints. The flowing off the back and sides. Thom Browne: With his show Paul Smith: Sir Paul Smith is seeing across much of Europe, Van circuitry patterns worked best Tubular pants came bunched set in a military school, Thom the world through rose-tinted Assche went for an upbeat Pet on technical outerwear; and the up, as if caught in cobwebs. Browne unleashed an army glasses this season, sending out a Shop Boys soundtrack. stripes seemed fresher, banded The mood lightened up with of doll soldiers wearing red collection that was pretty far out. across shirts, sweaters or a a series of noisy cartoon prints lipstick, reflective sunglasses Known for his irreverent humor, Givenchy: On Friday night, leather popover. and bold florals on shirts and and heeled loafers paired with the British designer teleported Riccardo Tisci laid claim War paint and bare torsos skinny ribbed pants. Wrinkled flouncy socks. They looked like back to the Seventies via a to many of the men’s trends heightened the tribal feel of the effects were an indispensable a bunch of menacing clones. series of mushroom prints and that he ignited, now gaining show, paraded to a pounding beat element of the collection and The New York-based designer psychedelic colors. currency on other Paris in a covered parking garage. A made total sense on a run of took cues from a mix and match of Among his more flamboyant runways. Among them are sport smattering of women’s looks — a tartans. Lightweight layers — historical uniforms spanning the offerings was a fuchsia coat with influences, allover prints and a corset and some printed blazers a tartan shirt and two tartan gamut from Napoleon to the Red a silver zipper running down the Nineties streetwear vibe. — completed his fashion gang. blazers in varying proportions Army. There were puffy military chest. Zippers also cut through coat His spring collection was While this show didn’t worn on top of each other — jackets with cut-off sleeves sleeves and the ribbed hems of a riot of busy prints, depicting represent any step forward for came with matching Bermuda and stiff, voluminous coats. tailored sweatpants which, paired primitive technology (mainly reel- Tisci, nobody could mistake these shorts. It gave the ensemble a Eighteenth-century petticoats with leather ankle boots, brought to-reel tape decks), bold stripes clothes for anything but Givenchy. rebellious feel. peeked from under pants, while a flavor of London’s eccentric and photo prints. Every garment, Lightness came through via short jacquard jodhpurs had street style to the catwalk. every layer — outerwear, suit Comme des Garçons Homme Plus: soft denim patchworks and a military cords dangling. Bombers, parkas and jackets, tank tops, basketball Rei Kawakubo’s punk-inspired particularly appealing shade For the finale, Browne Windbreakers in synthetic fabrics shorts, leggings — offered more collection was a wonder to of silvery gray, seen on some of translated an evening look into such as nylon and perforated real estate for pattern. Flapping behold: daring and yet right on Kawakubo’s quirky punk suits. a black canvas coat with a long Neoprene further fed into the loincloths printed with targets, trend. Continuing the tailoring For the finale, Kawakubo trail somehow reminiscent of theme. Meanwhile, knitted sweaters numbers or portraits also jostled experiments she initiated saved a plethora of head scarves Darth Vader, who then hoisted a featured graphic paneling. This for the eye’s attention. with her terrific fall women’s in tartan, floral and graphic white flag to the sounds of “All We was a happy collection, though Every once in a while, a sharp collection, she opened her show prints that were right on trend Need Is Love” by The Beatles. it remains to be seen whether black suit or a breezy white with black cutaway jackets with and offset clean shirts, sliced Clearly, it was more about the these DayGlo offerings appeal to summer parka offered a reprieve inlays of softer tulle fabrics open on the sleeves or shoulders. message than the clothes. more than a niche. 6 WwD MONDAY, JULY 1, 2013

Kenzo Junya Maison Martin Kris Van Watanabe Man Margiela Assche

Ann aitre M

Demeulemeester SPRING 2014 ominique D activewear trend seen all over managers in recent years. and PARIS the Paris runways, the Belgian The Italian designer MEN’S designer employed fancy fabrics confirmed his talent for COLLECTIONS

Giannoni — including Swiss pique — and restrained elegance with crocodile prints, scattering scales an opening lineup of black across the front of a white shirt or ensembles that combined sober Giovanni plastering them over a backpack. volumes with subtly sheer by Less convincing were the large- fabrics. Suits and coats were left scale polka dots. unlined to allow a glimpse of the Photos The tailoring was trim, underlying structure, including with jackets abbreviated and shoulder pads. Kenzo: Guests who trekked out to turf runway. A wholesome, Black flocked velvet flowers occasionally fastening with Camillo stumbled with his the Académie Fratellini circus trustworthy bunch, they wore crept over satin blazers and blue- varsity-style snaps in lieu of forays into casualwear, which arts school on the outskirts of their fisherman jackets inside and-white striped denim suits buttons. In Van Assche’s hands, felt like contrived nods to a more Paris for the Kenzo men’s show out, secret pockets for all the alike. Thick black stripes on a sport and chic make fine friends. fashion-conscious clientele. might have been hoping for some world to see. white redingote turned out to be An example: chest-level half- trapeze action. What they got The Japanese designer velvet ribbons, which appeared John Galliano: The show notes for belts on jackets and coats. was a freewheeling display of collaborated with rope and throughout the collection, curling the John Galliano men’s wear More successful was his use of sportswear inspired by the native rucksack specialist Seil around a raised collar or trailing show set the pace: “Break the luxurious textures, including a California of Humberto Leon and Marschall, whose label reads from buttonholes. silhouette. Layer it. Vent it. Zip it ridged moiré fabric on a zip-up Carol Lim. “Handmade in good old The layered silhouette had a on. Zip it off.” coat, and a brocade-effect black The designers celebrated Germany.” Watanabe employed casual flourish, though modern- The models adopted the fabric embroidered with a naval beach culture with loose cuts and the same sturdy, low-tech era dandys might want to wear same brisk tempo, zipping rope motif. hand-drawn prints, including fabrics found on the bags — these decorative clothes one past in outfits that nodded to wave motifs and graffiti-style waxed cotton, canvas and elegant piece at a time. the Nineties streetwear trend Miharayasuhiro: Prints took center lettering. Models descended into sailcloth — to create outdoorsy sweeping the catwalks this stage at Miharayasuhiro’s the ring of the wooden venue blazers, anoraks and expedition Maison Martin Margiela: The rocker- season. That meant oversize tops manga-inspired collection. The from alcoves set high in the jackets. Underneath went slim turned-dandy attitude Maison and jackets in perforated black Japanese designer splashed rafters, as Mike D of the Beastie checkered Bermuda shorts, Martin Margiela conjured for leather, which was underlaid featherlike patterns on anything Boys spun a crashing soundtrack. chinos or dungarees. spring worked best in a series of with eye-popping colors such from lightweight bombers to Anoraks and shirts with a While the rugged, pastoral suits a man could sport at a late- as acid yellow or coral pink to bulky T-shirts and double-faced contrasting stripe running across fashions were familiar, and the night concert and a dressed-up create a polka dot motif. overcoats. Another set of prints, the chest or sleeve recalled the show repetitive, Watanabe’s retro garden party alike. They came Designer Bill Gaytten’s this time evoking the wild shapes graphic simplicity of surfwear, stroll in the woods was as inviting with bartender-inspired aprons need for speed was further of bonsai trees in various shades while a boxy white sweatshirt as a picnic by the lake. or cut-off blazers worn with belts underlined by the tire prints of blue, looked surprisingly tough with raw edges — the brand’s around the waist. adorning the sleeves and back on a pair of tapered cargo pants. ubiquitous embroidered tiger Ann Demeulemeester: Guests Harking back to the old of a gray overcoat. Outerwear head now replaced by a rolling arriving at the Ann Margiela vocabulary, the suit was the strong point of this Damir Doma: Fluorescent frames wave — was slit at the sides for Demeulemeester show venue jackets boasted inside-out collection, with coats featuring propped on the runway and extra ease. were greeted by garlands of effects, raw edges, and sliced curved and overlaid panels the parking garage venue cued Roomy pants were either colored lights that brought to sleeves and lapels. With a palette that opened on deep zippered an industrial theme. Papery cropped above the ankle or mind guinguettes, the riverside that played it safe, centered on seams, emphasizing the sense fabrics and a limited palette — slit to pool over shoes. Since cafés on the outskirts of Paris off-white, midnight blue, ice gray of movement. drab gray, tan, white and some Kenzo has been repositioned where Impressionist painters and beige, the collection had an It was a far cry from founder strong blues — gave Doma’s as a contemporary line, honing rubbed shoulders with the all-age appeal. John Galliano’s frenzied familiar, generous shapes a in on streetwear is probably a working classes. invention, but this lineup clinical, uniform flavor. Safari smart move. The 19th century — and its Kris Van Assche: Anorak, I’d like provided retailers with some jackets, overblown bombers and high-collared shirts and cutaway you to meet Trenchcoat. Shirt, solid commercial options. ballooning pants were the main Junya Watanabe Man: Hikers are a coats — informed the Belgian this is Windbreaker. In his shapes. Constructivist patches friendly bunch, flashing peace designer’s spring collection, quest to unite sport and chic, Cerruti 1881: With his confident added a Soviet bloc aspect. Crisp signs and smiles as they brush which took the formal out of Kris Van Assche made those debut last season, Aldo Maria macs and blousons with quilted shoulders on the trail. That’s tailoring by piling on patterned introductions and more, yielding Camillo performed a feat: raglan sleeves stood out from what the models, dressed in fabrics that referenced everything new hybrid garments and a reviving interest in Cerruti 1881, more offbeat shapes (corset- rumpled, old-school trekking from seersucker and workwear to crisp, youthful collection. the house that has undergone a waist pants) and fabrics (quilted gear, did on Junya Watanabe’s mattress ticking and upholstery. Putting a luxury spin on the revolving door of designers and chevrons in pink silk).

w01a006(7)a.indd 6 6/30/13 7:32 PM 06302013193627 WWD MONDAY, JULY 1, 2013 7 WWD.COM

Kris Van Damir Doma Assche

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ John runway. Galliano Cerruti 1881 Miharayasuhiro

A.P.C. Sacai Loewe Ami Berluti: There were photo ops galore at the Berluti presentation Friday night, where catwalk elements were mixed with a dashing presentation, including a witty vignette exalting loafers on a bicycle built for 12. Models posed in the open-flung windows of the 17th- century Hôtel de Sully before descending to lounge in abstract picture frames set in the mansion’s secret garden, exuding the insouciant air of true luxury. Taking cues from Impressionist painting, Alessandro Sartori introduced an innovative palette of oxblood, eggplant, sunflower, lilac and some Yves Klein blue. Japanese indigo yarn was bleached, recolored and then woven to create crisp single- and double-breasted suits with a denimlike feel, while silk was treated to a ceramic bath making it look like leather, only softer and much lighter. “It’s all about reducing weight for the summer,” said Sartori, pointing to “a new type of suit,” consisting of no more than a pair of cropped pants and a short vest that mimicked the functions of a proper jacket via a set of inside pockets. Tailoring was close to the body, employing the Neapolitan shoulder and a raglan seam — moved Christophe to the rear — allowing for more flexibility. The Lemaire collection’s Thirties airs was heightened by two-tone shoes and straw boaters. For the first time, Berluti took bespoke to the runway, presenting silk and mohair evening suits. Christophe Lemaire: Christophe Sacai: Among the standouts Handmade by the Atelier Arnys for Berluti, they Presentations Lemaire gave his timeless of Chitose Abe’s spring should quickly find their way onto the red carpet. Ami: Alexandre Mattiussi built uniform a slightly tropical collection was a wide-striped From September onwards, the house will offer an airport lounge complete twist for spring. Black- parka so voluminous it could bespoke services in all categories, including jeans and with baggage claim, palm washed cotton sets, inspired be mistaken for a cape, while sportswear, completing its journey from elite cobbler trees and a telephone booth by the Vietcong, included a light floral prints had a funky, to luxury lifestyle label. in the concrete halls of Palais V-necked short-sleeve shirt camouflage effect and looked de Tokyo, in front of which with a military pocket and right on trend. Abe’s knack male travelers were busy roomy cropped pants. These for putting an athletic spin on getting from A to B. If only complemented retro-flavored tailored pieces came through all airport arrivals looked tailoring, including Fifties- on shirt-jacket hybrids made this suave. style pleated pants and a suit from ultrathin printed nylon, The collection was built made from vintage Japanese which she also used for on separates, more tailored checked wool. modernist sweatpants. than usual. There were black canvas and camouflage A.P.C.: Founder Jean Touitou Loewe: Luxurious outerwear parkas and Prince of Wales summed up the collection — such as a cropped sailor’s checks for either suit pants as “invisible dandyism,” mac or a waterproof leather or blazers that in turn were referring to its deceptively anorak with reinforced paired with tailored shirts or relaxed, casual style. Fifties seams — took cues from the

knitted sweaters. references like varsity yachting tradition of Spanish MAITRE “I mixed more this time,” jackets in linen, pinstripes Sotogrande. The brand said Mattiussi, who took cues or lambskin, and workwear- also revisited a number of

from “the fabrics we bring inspired blue linen overalls conventional men’s staples DOMINIQUE home from vacation” — be it peppered the line. A.P.C. is such as a polo shirt, which BY Marrakesh or a tropical island also set to launch a range came in lightweight suede,

— which translated into raffia of T-shirts designed in while a men’s blazer from PHOTOS and jungle motifs on a range collaboration with Paris- perforated leather was so of tailored classics. This based design duo M/M soft, you could roll it into SACAI collection is going places. for spring. a ball. AND LOEWE 8 WwD monday, july 1, 2013

FALL 2013 Couture’s New Wave paris {Continued from page one} COUTURE body, has added 10 specialty ateliers to the A sketch official calendar. They are to invite editors of Armani to discover the craftsmanship behind the Privé, to be world’s most labor-intensive and expen- presented sive clothes. in Paris on Participants for the inaugural session July 2. are embroiderers Lesage and Montex, shoe- maker Massaro, leather finisher Idées de Marc, silk finisher Holding Textile Hermès, glove maker Causse, milliner Maison Michel, goldsmith Goossens, feather house Lemarié and saddler Maïté Wustner. According to Armani, such behind-the- scenes exposure reinforces the value of the rich patrimony in Europe. “I think people need to know what couture is really about,” the Italian de- signer said. “What this industry needs is perhaps greater exposure. The more the better, to show that behind the dream, there is a lot of hard work. It is important to remember that the wonderful items of couture are produced through meticu- lous craftsmanship, which needs to be promoted and safeguarded.” Ralph Toledano, president of fashion at Puig, the Spanish parent of the fash- ion houses Nina Ricci, Paco Rabanne, exclusive service,” Carolina Herrera and Jean Paul Gaultier, he said. said the traveling exhibition devoted At Dior, chief to Gaultier’s couture, currently on in executive officer Sidney Toledano cited Stockholm and destined for New York a “strong double-digit” pace for couture, City and London next, has already attract- crediting the modernist designs of Raf ed close to one million visitors — some Simons for attracting new and younger 300,000 during the San Francisco leg alone. clients from almost all geographies, in- “People want to dream: Of course, cluding the Middle East, Russia and the there’s interest,” he said, also citing ro- U.S. “Couture also has to be creative and bust sales for Gaultier’s Indian-themed innovative,” he said. “It has to bring a spring collection, with Russian and Middle new vision.” Eastern clients gravitating toward grand Toledano praised the addition of high evening gowns; Americans and Europeans jewelry to the couture-week cocktail and to suits and cocktail dresses. said Dior would host a dinner for about “We are confident. We have reinforced 100 clients in Versailles to present the lat- the teams, we have reinforced the ate- est collection by its fine jewelry designer lier,” he said, also confirming last week’s Victoire de Castellane. The women will WWD story that Christine Chapellu will also get a chance to visit rooms rarely assume the management helm of Gaultier open to the public, he added. starting today. Valentino’s Rome atelier, located in a 16th-century palazzo, is operating at “full capacity” and still fulfilling two or three outstanding spring orders, according to ceo Stefano Sassi. “Some American customers are coming back and Brazilians are paying more and more attention to haute couture,” he said. Answering requests from clients, Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli plan to increase the offering of daywear versus last season, Sassi said, also singling out growing inter- est in couture shoes “to give a total look.” Armani recently started selling some couture accessories in his new Avenue Montaigne store in Paris and the Via Condotti location in Rome. Armani said emerging markets contin-

ue to drive “very positive” results. oni N “The key markets for growth have been China and India. The UAE is still a gian strong market, too,” he said. “I anticipate

modest growth across the globe, but ex- giovanni

Inside the pect the emerging markets to continue to by Massaro shoe outperform the traditional ones in terms atelier. of percentage growth. South America and photos India are interesting new territories.” Executives agreed that elite customers Atelier Versace: The way a fundamentalist celebration of the house heat. She tulle embroideries; see-through swathes For Chanel, which began acquiring can be seduced by high fashion. believes in redemption or a Buddhist sent the message loud and clear from spliced into silk cady and Cher-worthy specialty ateliers more than a decade “The key is presenting the work to monk in karma, that’s how Donatella the start, opening with one of the midriff evening looks, all playing into the ago and now controls a total of nine, from them in an environment that allows them Versace believes in glamour. To the core. greatest runway glamazons of all time, designer’s motif of “conceal and reveal.” an elite knitwear factory in Scotland to to fully appreciate how special it is,” Glamour is not superficial; Lord knows, Naomi Campbell. (Can Naomi hold Of course, this being Versace, the a button specialist in Paris, opening its said Armani. it’s not accidental. For her couture her own amidst the teenagers? What emphasis was on the latter, whether via doors “is part of the couture story,” said The designer said celebrities are also collection, Versace wanted “to go back do you think?) the curvy silhouettes, sheer insets or Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion at doing their part to wave the flag for one-of- to real glamour,” the kind that pulsed Loathe to send a retro message, demonstrative hook-and-eye ladder closures the privately held company. “The work a-kind clothes. through the photographs of Horst and Versace delivered her signature steam (sometimes finished with giant “diamond” done there is so impressive.” “In my experience, where the red car- Man Ray, “that black-and-white era,” with an au courant focus on surface studs) that often replaced seams. These The garments are mostly realized at pet goes, customers and press follow,” the designer said during a preview, interest — often more than one might were sometimes opened with feigned its Rue Cambon headquarters, where Armani said. “It happened with ready-to- “where everything [was perfect]. The think even the best ateliers could pack randomness for an ample glimpse of bustier Chanel just added a fourth atelier to wear, and now it seems to be happening photography was perfect. The lighting into clothes that fit like a second skin. lace or an up-to-there show of leg. meet rising demand. The company now with couture.” was perfect, the hair was perfect, the The materials could not have been Once or twice, Versace overrevealed, as has two ateliers for tailored garments Dior’s Toledano agreed, citing “a big de- makeup was perfect. It was all always more luxe. One, an embroidery of micro with a silly pair of Vegas-ready cat suits. and two for unstructured ones, known in mand in Hollywood, as well as in Cannes, to perfection,” until somewhere along sequins used as fabric, was often shown But the dark, even sober shine of Versace’s French as “flou.” [France],” where a bevy of stars — from fashion’s course, deliberately imperfect in combination with other textures. A palette — deep blue, green, burgundy, Pavlovsky cited a double-digit gain Nicole Kidman to Julianne Moore — became the new perfect. tony (albeit over-the-top) triumph: a ostensibly inspired by gemstones — for Karl Lagerfeld’s spring couture col- donned Raf Simons’ designs to mount the Why be merely chagrined when you mink-lined, Medusa-cinched croc coat added moody nuance. The overall result lection, but stressed that rapid growth is famous red steps. “This is a very positive can fight back? with sequined sleeves and back. There was an elegant rendering of Versace’s not the goal. “We want to maintain a very sign,” he said. Versace did so with a luxed-up were also collages of leather, mink and sexy vernacular.

w01a008a(9).indd 8 6/30/13 7:53 PM 06302013195535 WwD MONDAY, JULY 1, 2013 9 WWD.COM Penélope iggott P Cruz in Loewe’s fall campaign. Fashion Scoops Marcus and las A

IN MEMORIAM: Pierre Bergé, the longtime not on the schedule. “I always love partner of Yves Saint Laurent, to film in Paris whenever I have the

attended the Saint Laurent men’s show chance, but not at the moment.” Mert in Paris on Sunday accompanied by the For others, the soirée was a brief by

director and star of a new biopic on the respite before a working summer. hoto P late French couturier. Roberts said she would be moving to Jalil Lespert, the actor-turned-director New Orleans shortly to begin work on York-based handbag and accessories who is helming “Yves Saint Laurent,” the television series “American Horror maker Coach, as reported. said he could not have done the project Story,” which also stars Quinto. “I spent — JOELLE DIDERICH without Bergé’s support. last summer there, actually, doing a “My movie is a love story, first and movie for a month, and had the best UNITED NATIONS: Reflected in a mirrored foremost, so naturally I went to him to time, so I’m excited to get to go back,” maze set, the VIPs at Saturday’s Dior tell him I needed his input, because she said. — J.D. Homme show in Paris made for a at the end of the day, the biographies cosmopolitan group portrait. provide little information about VIEW FINDER: In the age of Twitter and A gaggle of French actors — their personal life,” Lespert said. “I Instagram, practically everyone snaps including Gad Elmaleh, Roschdy Zem, literally fell in love with the character photos at fashion shows. Well, it looks Nicolas Duvauchelle, Adèle Exarchopoulos and the couple.” like the bar will be raised considerably and Jérémie Laheurte — joined guests The movie, currently shooting in when Dior parades its fall couture such as Karl Lagerfeld, Marisa Berenson, Paris with Pierre Niney in the title role, is collection today. perfumer Ben Gorham and Canadian Photo captions: due to be completed by yearend. Word has it the show will feature musician Alex Fleming, aka Black Atlass. Uma Thurman Interest in the project is running “exclusive interventions” by the likes Zachary Quinto was enjoying some Emma Roberts and Mena Suravi high, especially since a rival of Paolo Roversi, Patrick Demarchelier, Terry time off after the heavy promotional Zachary Quinto picture, titled “Saint Laurent” and Richardson and Willy Vanderperre. schedule for “Star Trek Into Darkness,” David Furnish and Donatella Versace starring Gaspard Ulliel, is currently in — MILES SOCHA in which he plays Spock. “I haven’t been Photo by Stephane Feugere preproduction. Lespert dismissed the here in a couple of years, so it’s nice to LIGHTS, CAMERA, DALLAS: Chanel’s be back,” he said of the French capital, Karl Lagerfeld is donning his adding that his plans director cap again. For his included “hanging out, next Métiers d’Art show, seeing friends, probably slated for Dec. 10 in Dallas, he hitting a museum or two.” plans to make a mini movie Quinto is also busy documenting the period in the with his production Feugere mid-Fifties when Gabrielle company, Before the Door, Chanel hit it big in America. whose credits include J.C.

tephane Photo captions: Feugere S Geraldine Chaplin is to portray Chandor’s “Margin Call” Azzedine Alaïa and Milla Jovovich by the legendary designer with and “All Is Lost.” Its latest Beck

Azzedine Alaïa and Milla Jovovich a host of famous faces — tephane release, “Breakup at a hoto S

P Pierre Bergé and Pierre Niney including Rupert Everett and Wedding,” just came out on by Elodie Bouchez competition between the two flicks. Arielle Dombasle — lined up to Zachary Quinto VOD and iTunes.

hoto Nicolas Godin “I’m not really aware of it. I’m just play small parts. Lagerfeld P “For me, producing is Jalil Lespert focusing on my film,” he shrugged. said filming would take place about giving opportunities Salma Hayek and Michael Pitt Kering chairman and chief in Paris for three days in mid-July, and to people that I’ve respected for a long Photo by Stephane Feugere executive officer François-Henri Pinault, unlike the short black-and-white film time and worked with for a long time, who owns Saint Laurent, was joined he made for the resort collection shown and my opportunities can benefit them, at the show by his wife, actress Salma in Singapore last May, this one will so it makes me happy,” he explained. Hayek, and guests including Milla Jovovich, be in “old Technicolor — like [Paris] Miguel-Ángel Silvestre — just back from Sky Ferreira and a gaggle of musicians. Match photos,” he said. — M.S. the U.S. promotional tour for Pedro Beck, who starred in the spring ad Almodóvar’s “I’m So Excited!” — said he campaign for Saint Laurent, said his SISTER SISTER: Loewe’s new handbag will appear next fall as the boss of a modeling debut was relatively painless. design is a sister act. The Cruz bag, ready-to-wear brand in the Sixties-era “It was comfortable, because we’ve due to hit the Spanish brand’s stores series “Galerías Vélvet” on Spanish TV Photo caption: Zachary Quinto been friends for so long and we shot worldwide on Nov. 1, was designed by channel Antena 3. Gad Elmaleh, Karl Lagerfeld and Sidney it in a house by where I live,” said the Loewe brand ambassador Penélope Cruz Having attended the Dior resort Toledano Los Angeles-based musician, who will and her sister, Mónica, in collaboration show in Monaco in May, the Spanish Alex Fleming play an acoustic concert at the Cité de with the label’s departing creative heartthrob is busy beefing up his Marisa Berenson and Miguel-Ángel la Musique in Paris on Tuesday. director, Stuart Vevers. A cross-body bag fashion credentials. “I didn’t know that Silvestre — JOELLE DIDERICH with outside pockets, it was designed much about it, but I’m getting more Han Geng for a woman on the go. familiar with it, and it’s a wonderful Karl Lagerfeld ALL THAT GLITTERS: Couture week got “We wanted to do something world,” Silvestre enthused. Roschdy Zem and Nicolas Duvauchelle off to a glittering start on Sunday night special but also practical, and we Han Geng recently beat South Korean Jérémie Laheurte and Adèle with Donatella Versace’s wanted the design to have singer Psy to win the award for Favorite Exarchopoulos Atelier Versace show and an unmistakable Spanish Asian Act at Nickelodeon’s 26th Annual Caroline de Maigret after party, held a stone’s element,” said Penélope Kids’ Choice Awards. Now he is eyeing John Nollet throw from the Arc de Cruz, who signed a three-year Hollywood. Through an improvised Ben Gorham Triomphe. deal to front the Madrid- interpreter, the Chinese singer and actor Photo by Stephane Feugere Guests including Uma based house, starting with said he would be announcing details of Thurman, Emma Roberts, spring 2013. (She reunited his U.S. film project next week. — J.D. Mena Suvari and Zachary with photographers Mert Alas Quinto gathered at a and Marcus Piggott for the fall Isn’t it Romantic: Real life loves Sienna palatial residence that is campaign, which pictures her Miller and Tom Sturridge have been normally home to the Paris on the rooftop of the Casino confirmed as the faces of Burberry’s

Chamber of Trade and Feugere de Madrid.) fall collection. Shot together for the Industry — though the only “We wanted a bag that would first time as a couple, the campaign

business on anyone’s mind tephane be useful for women who need is described as a continuation of the S was choosing among the to carry many things and have “playful and romantic mood” of the by celebration of the house heat. She tulle embroideries; see-through swathes precious jewels on display. Uma Thurman them all to hand at the same upcoming fall season, kicked off by hoto

sent the message loud and clear from spliced into silk cady and Cher-worthy Sitting in one of the P time,” added Mónica Cruz. the brand’s June launch of Burberry the start, opening with one of the midriff evening looks, all playing into the display cases dotting the By all accounts, the siblings Kisses, a personalized digital kiss- greatest runway glamazons of all time, designer’s motif of “conceal and reveal.” darkened venue was the diamond — who designed a capsule collection sending platform. Naomi Campbell. (Can Naomi hold Of course, this being Versace, the necklace with a Medusa head pendant for Spanish high-street retailer Mango “This was a shoot full of love and her own amidst the teenagers? What emphasis was on the latter, whether via worn by Naomi Campbell to open the show. in 2007 — work in perfect harmony. “We laughter,” said Christopher Bailey, chief do you think?) the curvy silhouettes, sheer insets or “It was an honor,” the model said, as she usually like the same things. When we creative officer. “It was such a treat Loathe to send a retro message, demonstrative hook-and-eye ladder closures joined Thurman and Versace on a leather do the design meetings separately, we to work with Sienna and Tom, and Versace delivered her signature steam (sometimes finished with giant “diamond” banquette in a corner of the room. tend to choose the same materials and capture their magic together.” with an au courant focus on surface studs) that often replaced seams. These Suvari said she had just completed colors,” Penélope Cruz noted. Shot under Bailey’s creative interest — often more than one might were sometimes opened with feigned shooting the romantic comedy “A Bet’s The handbag comes in a variety of direction by Mario Testino, the think even the best ateliers could pack randomness for an ample glimpse of bustier a Bet” opposite Geoff Stults. “He’s kind colors. The Cruz collection will also campaign soundtrack features an into clothes that fit like a second skin. lace or an up-to-there show of leg. of a wheeler-dealer — kind of a douche include coin purses and large zip exclusive version of “Hold Me” by The materials could not have been Once or twice, Versace overrevealed, as bag, basically — and he meets his wallets, said the company, which plans musician Tom Odell, recorded live at the more luxe. One, an embroidery of micro with a silly pair of Vegas-ready cat suits. match,” she said. “He ends up falling to celebrate the renovation of its Paris fall Prorsum women’s wear show. As sequins used as fabric, was often shown But the dark, even sober shine of Versace’s for this girl, so there are some kind of store by architect Peter Marino with a part of the initiative, which highlights in combination with other textures. A palette — deep blue, green, burgundy, play bets involved.” cocktail party on Wednesday during men’s and women’s outerwear and tony (albeit over-the-top) triumph: a ostensibly inspired by gemstones — Thurman said she flew in especially Paris Couture Week. accessories, behind-the-scenes content mink-lined, Medusa-cinched croc coat added moody nuance. The overall result for the show. “I’m concocting something Vevers, who has been at Loewe since will be shared across Burberry’s online with sequined sleeves and back. There was an elegant rendering of Versace’s — a little bit of shopping, some 2008, is leaving the house to become outlets throughout the season. were also collages of leather, mink and sexy vernacular. culture,” she said — though work was executive creative director of New — BELISA SILVA

w01a008a(9).indd 9 6/30/13 7:53 PM 06302013195537 10 WWD MONDAY, JULY 1, 2013 Marni Enters Evening accessories elevated through luxury fabrics By ALESSANDRA TURRA and embellishment. For example, a new take on the MILAN — Marni is ready to come skirt suit features a cropped silk Glashütte Launches Pavonina out at night. duchesse bomber and matching Today, the Milanese brand will skirt, cut below the knee, worn unveil its Evening Collection, a with a mannish cotton poplin Pavonina collection harks back to the Twenties, new line dedicated to women’s shirt. Working in a rather sober By MELISSA DRIER the design team now integrating flexible lugs in evening clothes and accessories. palette of black, white and deep the case to let it shape around the wrist. This Positioned as a special-occasion red, Castiglioni showed a short BERLIN — German watchmaker Glashütte somewhat squared oval form fashioned in stain- collection for Marni loyalists, as cape tied with an oversized silk Original is renewing a forgotten company tra- less steel, bicolored 18-karat red gold and chief executive officer Gianni bow over slouchy cropped pants, dition with its newest product launch: the stainless steel or 750/000 red gold further Castiglioni said, the evening and a cocoon jacket styled with Pavonina women’s timepiece collection. repeats in the link bracelet models. range includes ready-to-wear and a sleeveless Persian lamb top. The 20-piece collection, which made its Both the case and link shapes have a a full accessories line. Where she did use print and tex- New York debut in late June following an late-Sixties and Seventies flair, which “For me, the Marni Evening ture, it was quiet, as in a black- unveiling at the Berlin Film Festival in was also an important women’s watch Collection is a fascinating area of and-white floral pattern and a February and at Baselworld in May, will era for Glashütte. The brand ex- research in terms of design and wool jacquard meant to imitate hit retail doors this month. The collec- panded its women’s products in the materials,” said creative director the veins on leaves. tion marks the first full women’s line to Sixties and Seventies, and with its Consuelo Castiglioni, who stayed The collection will hit Marni be offered in decades by the 168-year- quartz movements, was the first true to house aesthetics without stores worldwide in November, old Dresden, Germany-based watch- former East German company to indulging in the hyper-decora- at the same time as resort. Retail maker, a subsidiary of Swatch Group. export to the West. As the focus tive, typically print-heavy looks prices range from $600 for silk Named after the Latin word for shifted to more complicated move- that are often associated with the duchesse tops to $5,530 for an peacock — pavoninus — the Pavonina ments and thus bigger houses, wom- main collection. Instead, she ex- embroidered belted coat with collection borrows colors and forms en’s models got lost in the shuffle, plored a more effortless elegance, nutria fur cuffs. from the opulent bird. There are straps especially after the brand’s relaunch opting for rigorous cuts and sub- As for accessories, shoes include in purple and teal satin, while the range’s following German reunification, and its tle, sophisticated details. black-and-gold sandals with stacked most elaborate red gold and diamond dec- acquisition by Swatch in 2000. That’s not to say the lineup heels and corolla-shaped platforms, orated watch features a fanning peacock Glashütte is the group’s third-largest appeals to traditional notions bejeweled flat sandals and a riff on tail of 98 hand-set diamonds on its mocha prestige brand, according to Gamard, of eveningwear — there are just mannish leather loafers done with or mother of pearl-colored Colorit dial. who declined to reveal sales volume. two gowns in the collection, both crystal capped toes, while the bags Set to retail between 3,900 and A watch from the Industry sources placed the brand’s languid maxidresses in reverse range from python clutches to flat 32,000 euros, or about $5,113 to $41,957 new collection. sales at more than 100 million euros, crepe satin. The rest is focused embroidered bags with fur details at current exchange, the collection or about $131.1 million. Gamard said on clean-cut silhouettes, many to a snakeskin version of the label’s features strong commercial as well as stylis- Glashütte “hopes to increase volume by an- of them inspired by daywear and new Marni Trunk bag. tic links to the Twenties and Sixties. Until the other 25 percent” through the introduction of mid-Twenties, Glashütte produced only pocket Pavonina. “But the biggest problem right now watches, primarily for men, but as women is production capacity,” he added. “Glashütte’s Eveningwear began to adopt the newly conceived wrist- sales have been going well.” looks from watch, the brand established a ladies’ wrist- The launch in Europe and the U.S. will be fol- Marni. watch tradition many years before getting into lowed by a second phase rollout in Asia at the men’s wristwatches. In fact, as Yann Gamard, end of 2013. Gamard noted the essential design of a Swatch management board member respon- the range makes future line extensions an open sible for northern Europe, remarked, “The option. In the U.S., he added, Pavonina will be tar- majority of watches sold in our [Glashütte geted at 30 of America’s top high-end doors, such Original’s] history were women’s wristwatches.” as Tourbillon Boutique. Special events in each The cushion-shaped case of the new launch country will support a print campaign. Hilfiger Teams With George Esquivel

a great initiative, so I asked him to design a men’s By MARCY MEDINA shoe for our fall 2013 runway show. The result was a beautiful, high-quality piece. Developing it LOS ANGELES — Tommy Hilfiger is team- into a capsule collection was a natural and excit- ing up with Los Angeles shoe designer George ing step for the brand,” said Hilfiger. Esquivel to launch a limited-edition collection Said Esquivel: “The collection takes the es- for men and women set to debut Aug. 23 on sence of what we both do, which at the core is tommy.com and in select stores on Sept. 1. being an American designer. We are both influ- The 900-pair run of brogue and loafer styles enced heavily by Americana and music, and I is handmade in California with premium, local- love his take on preppy.” ly sourced leathers and materials. The designs Said Hilfiger: “The brand has always drawn combine Hilfiger’s trademark preppy aesthetic inspiration from our classic, American, cool with Esquivel’s signature quirky details, includ- heritage and signature preppy style. That’s my ing bright outsoles, prominent stitching and an- vision and my formula, but I’m always looking tiqued leather washing. The shoes feature vin- for emerging talent to come in who respects that tage details such as hand-punched perforations, vision and wants to modernize it a bit.” hand-appliquéd logos and the Tommy Hilfiger While Esquivel has done other collaborations, + Esquivel logo emblazoned into the leather nothing matches the scale of the Hilfiger project. with a branding iron. In a subtle nod to Hilfiger “The biggest collaboration I’ve done is 200 pairs. style, the medallion on the toe of the wing tip is We only produce 4,000 pairs a year, so this is help- in the shape of an argyle print. Each pair comes ing me reach a new audience and grow and ex- with shoe bags and red, white, blue and brown plore the business. Tommy has definitely been a laces in a numbered box. mentor for me in that respect,” he said. The shoes, retailing for $399, will be sold Hilfiger said he’s open to more collaborations. in the brand’s Los Angeles, New York, Paris, “Collaborations are a great vehicle for trying London and Tokyo flagships and stores in something different and to bring a fresh perspec- Munich, Berlin, Hamburg, Düsseldorf, Zurich, tive to my vision. I love innovation; I’m always Vienna, Milan, Dublin, Istanbul and San Diego. looking at opportunities and finding new ways to “George and I first met in 2009, when he was update the American classics,” the designer said. nominated for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award. Then, in 2011, George participated in the organization’s Americans in Paris program, which provides a platform for emerg- ing American designers to showcase their talents during Paris Fashion Week,” said Hilfiger, who serves as a mentor for the program. Esquivel then made KESSLER

shoes for Hilfiger and his GREG

wife Dee when they were BY in Los Angeles. “Seeing

George’s collection, I Tommy Hilfiger and PHOTO thought a collaboration George Esquivel

between our brands would be HILFIGER WWD MONDAY, JULY 1, 2013 11 WWD.COM

performing on stage. MEMO PAD “My mom is a bit of a hippie and I definitely take after that.…Give me shorts and COVER SET: The all-important a crop top and I’m a happy September issues will close business camper,” Jepsen told WWD in a few days, but the covers, at least of her preferred look. “I like for most of the magazines, have to mix and match and have fun been in the bag for some time. For with fashion. I don’t like to be fall, fashion titles are banking on pigeonholed into one thing. That’s reliable bestsellers with all-American what’s fun about Candie’s, they sex appeal and relatability, and have a lot of things to play with.” TV starlets — and almost everyone Jepsen’s style icons include is playing catch-up with those Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen. “They are celebrities who have already done the 5-foot-2 and petite and so am I, so other cover rounds. when I see them pull something off, I Those starlets who failed to think, ‘If they can do it, maybe I can generate excitement at the newsstand also,’” she noted. — DAVID LIPKE in the past seem to have fallen out of favor — Taylor Swift, for one. CAROLINA’S DOUBLE TIME: For the second Jennifer Lawrence, most recently consecutive season, Carolina Herrera has seen in October in W, November in turned to Nathaniel Goldberg to shoot Vogue U.K. and February in Vanity her advertising. In keeping with the Fair, scored her first cover of Vogue, September issue cover subjects Zooey Deschanel (Marie Claire), Jennifer Lawrence (Vogue), surrealistic feel of the spring campaign, shot by Mario Testino. And all it took was Jennifer Aniston (Glamour) and Blake Lively (Lucky). the fall one also challenges the eye with winning an Academy Award. a trompe l’oeil effect. Readers flipping Kate Upton, twice a Sports of “Twilight,” the other popular for 48 hours and offer special prices on through the August issues of fashion Illustrated swimsuit issue cover girl, vampire series, was unmissable on Candie’s apparel, shoes, accessories, magazines may do a double take when has finally become a fashion glossy the newsstand last year. jewelry and beauty products. staple. After appearing on GQ in Lucky is counting on Blake Lively to “Who doesn’t love a sale?” said July and Cosmopolitan in November, work some magic on its newsstand Jepsen, 27, of the campaign, which Vogue at last deemed her worthy of sales — the former “Gossip Girl” actress also entails print advertisements that its June cover, and now Carter Smith was one of Elle’s third-biggest sellers break in August lifestyle and fashion has shot the full-figured model for the last year, and Kristen Bell of Showtime’s titles, including Seventeen and cover of Elle. “House of Lies” was styled by reality TV Teen Vogue. Titled “Hard at Work,” Jennifer Aniston is on the cover of personality Brad Goreski for Redbook. those images showcase Jepsen’s Glamour shot by newcomer Alexei Hay. Two magazines with unexpected life as a rising pop star — writing Aniston is a regular presence at the cover girls are Allure and Town music, recording in the studio and checkout line, but there’s a reason for & Country. Allure cast Jennifer that — she sells. Last year, she was Garner, who’s been missing from the InStyle’s bestseller. newsstands for a little more than a Two young actresses who are year, and Town & Country put on the starting to land more magazine covers cover a couple of heiresses, Lauren Bush Mirte Maas in a fall ad for Carolina Herrera. are Rooney Mara of “The Girl With the Lauren and Claire Courtin-Clarins, for an Dragon Tattoo” and Lily Collins, most issue focused on philanthropy. they see Mirte Maas twice in the same ad. recently of Julia Roberts’ flop “Mirror, — ERIK MAZA The Dutch model plays two contrasting Mirror.” Mara, Vogue’s February cover roles — at ease with her hands in the girl, was shot by David Sims for T: The CARLY RAE FOR CANDIE’S: Following in pockets of a black-and-white ensemble New York Times Style Magazine, the teen idol footsteps of Lea Michele, and standing in a white gown with a while Collins, recently on Glamour’s Vanessa Hudgens and Britney Spears, the ruched waist and black velvet belt. July cover, will be looking out from newest Candie’s spokesmodel will The moral to this story being the two Seventeen’s September one. be Carly Rae Jepsen for the brand’s sides of Herrera’s collection — daytime Television stars, hugely successful back-to-school campaign. The “Call and evening. at the newsstand last year, are again Me Maybe” songstress will appear in The undulating shape and contrast everywhere. Marie Claire is returning a series of six commercials during of the backdrop, which are further to an old standby, Zooey Deschanel of the “Teen Choice 2013” broadcast on accented by Herrera’s designs, are “New Girl,” who was its second-best Fox on Aug. 11 that will drive viewers meant to reflect the “Capriccio for seller of 2012. The piece promises a to live flash sales on kohls.com, the Carolina” that crescendoed during monumental meeting between the ditzy exclusive online and in-store retailer the finale of her fall runway show. starlet and George Gurley, the former of Candie’s. To trumpet how music inspired the New York Observer nightlife columnist. This is the first time a fashion collection, Herrera recruited composer Cosmopolitan is still hot for marketer has created a live selling Tom Hodge and producer Javier Peral to vampires — the magazine cast event during a broadcast program, commission a musical score inspired by Nina Dobrev of the television show according to Iconix Brand Group, An image from Candie’s back-to-school Beethoven’s “Kreutzer Violin Sonata.” campaign featuring Carly Rae Jepsen. “Vampire Diaries.” The young cast owner of Candie’s. The sales will last — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG GOLDBERG NATHANIEL BY AD HERRERA IMAGES; III/WIREIMAGE/GETTY DZIEKAN S. HENRY BY LIVELY SARDELLA; DONATO BY ANISTON AND LAWRENCE JONES; KATIE BY PHOTO DESCHANEL Holiday 2014

Ann Taylor: “It’s holiday time, so we all want a little bit of sparkle,” said Ann Taylor creative director Lisa For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Axelson. She wasn’t talking glitter and fireworks for holiday, but sophisticated glamour exemplified by a tailored leopard jacquard coat and a strapless black peplum top worn over bronzed jacquard pants in New York Embroidery Studio an animal pattern. There Beading, Laser Cutting, Smocking, Tucking novelty embellishments NYC, China & India were also several black lace 212-971-9101 [email protected] details, whether appliquéd on PATTERNS, SAMPLES, a white coat or on a feminine PRODUCTIONS Full service shop to the trade. blouse peeking out beneath a Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 tuxedo jacket. “I like to think of it as real-world glamour because she still goes to work,” said Axelson of her customer, who is looking for “desk-to-dinner, desk- to-party” clothes. Rounding out the presentation was a holiday “Wish List” with 12 themes, among them “Best in Bow,” “Touch of Lace,” “The Couture T” and “Haute (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] Hue,” illustrated through

corresponding table displays. ERICKSEN KYLE BY PHOTOS 12 WWD MONDAY, JULY 1, 2013 WWD.COM Century 21 Plots New Paths for Growth

{Continued from page one} downtown store.” Q A 130,000-square-foot flagship for In May, a compact, 30,000-square- Century 21 in Jersey Gardens puts a downtown Brooklyn on Fulton Street, foot Century 21 opened in the Outlet contemporary vibe on a raw, industrial space. seen opening in fall 2015. Collection|Jersey Gardens in Elizabeth, Q Working with the Council of Fashion N.J. The one-level unit has an LED screen Designers of America to help emerging across the width of the entrance flashing designers meet their minimum orders. trends, and what all other Century 21 lo- In April, a MAC Cosmetics counter cations lack — mannequins. There are was installed on the main floor of the huge graphics and signs, and wide aisles flagship, the first ever in an off-price set- to make it easier to find any category. The ting, and a Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf Café mannequins, 70 of them, show trend vi- landed on the third floor, giving shoppers gnettes, which isn’t easy for an off-pricer a place to take a break from the bargain- to present, given the buying tends to be hunting. This spring, the Century 21 flag- hit or miss and odds and ends. It’s an ef- ship completed renovations and expan- fort by Century 21 to play it both ways — sions up and down the store, bringing it elevate the customer experience while to seven levels and over 225,000 square maintaining the deep discounts. feet, and making it less cluttered, easier “This is a test,” Vettori said. “Our to navigate and quicker at the checkout, original format is for 100,000 square feet in a series of maneuvers to help lock in but they’re very static. With the new for- the downtown shopper. The Century 21 mat, all the fixtures are on wheels. There flagship accounts for about 25 percent are no walls beyond the perimeter of the of the chain’s total volume, estimated at store, no interior divides. It’s one big $700 million. It generates within its five open space so the layout is very flexible. merchandise divisions anywhere from Every six months, the major graphics $500 to $2,500 in sales per square foot, will change to reflect the season, while but in a couple of years will face stiffer merchandise displays change weekly. competition from the influx of retailing “We use different carpeting and dif- entering the World Trade Center, the ferent fixtures to differentiate men’s or World Financial Center and South Street women’s. From the design to the open- Seaport, though these developments are ing, this took us just eight to 10 weeks to not off-price. Century 21, as a private open. If it works, it would be easier for us company, does not comment on revenues. to open 30,000-square-foot formats,” than “We want to be more than just gar- the average Century 21, which is 130,000 ments on a rack,” said Raymond Gindi, square feet. At Jersey Gardens, men’s, From left: A new facade is on the drawing board for the flagship; the renovated cosmetics floor at chief executive officer of the off-price women’s, accessories, lingerie, footwear the Manhattan flagship; mannequins projecting trends — a first for the store. chain, in a rare interview on the company and handbags are sold but no kids’, cos- and its future. “The flagship is brighter, metics or home. sentation at Jersey Gardens is most im- but it is for us,” Gindi said. it’s got wider aisles, it’s been cleaned up. Asked how long it would take to evalu- portant, Gindi stressed. “There was a Discussing expenses to create the ex- We’ve got the first MAC counter in an off- ate the store, Gindi said at least a year, misconception by some people that this perience, Gindi said, “We try to keep it pricer, but MAC isn’t sold at discount. We to see how it gets through each season. was an outlet version of our off-price down.” The company did spend more on will also refurbish the facade to have a Sources said the store had a strong first stores, and that we were selling left- the fitting rooms, technology and graph- consistent look on all four sides. It will two weeks, posting about $1 million in overs. That is not the case.” ics, but saved by keeping the ceiling open upgrade the image. We discount in the sales. “With our Rego Park store [in The store has plenty of labels, with and without sheet rock, and keeping the store. We don’t want to discount lifestyle.” Queens] it took two years just for it to Nautica, D&G, Boss, Nike, Free People, cement floor rather than using floor cov- “We are not going for quantity, we are mature,” to the point where a customer Jessica Simpson, Levi’s and Steve erings. “The LED is big bucket, but we going for quality. We want to position base was formed, and Century 21 had a Madden, among the most abundant no- spent much less on the architecture.” ourselves as ‘the boutique’ of off-price, handle on its performance. ticed during a recent visit. Century 21 “This model could open doors [to fur- where the customer experience and au- The Jersey Gardens store, formerly buys merchandise that is temporarily ther expansion] if this works,” Vettori said. thenticity of product are synonymous,” occupied by Daffy’s, has a raw, indus- kept in storage until brands and design- “We are eight stores. I could see get- said Valentino Vettori, Century 21’s cre- trial look, with exposed duct work, ers give the OK to display. The stores are ting to 12 or 15,” Gindi said, discussing ative director. stripped-down structural columns and generally 40 to 65 percent off, and reach expansion generally. “We don’t want to be According to Vettori, the company is polished cement floors. “We need to care 90 percent off on clearances. Gindi said 100 stores. We are a family-run, value-ori- learning from testing new ideas. “You re- about the customer experience,” Gindi the company does not buy too much old ented retailer, but we have been talking ally don’t have to change all of the store. said, almost apologizing for a reputation inventory, nor does it do pack-a-ways, as about what our future should be, what’s You just need to give inspirational areas.” of just focusing on price and piles of other off-pricers are known to do. our next step. We are trying all of these The Brooklyn flagship will be “defi- product. “It does require a different way The LED screen is 15 feet tall, has an experiments, but we don’t want to change nitely close to our Manhattan flagship of working — greater coordination be- arched ceiling and extends 75 feet across our DNA. We discussed trying smaller — 10 minutes by subway,” Gindi said. In tween fashion directors, the creative di- the entire width of the main entrance. stores that are really curated and with a terms of its impact on sales at the flag- rector, allocators, buyers and the visual The windows change every week, as do more visual experience. Jersey Gardens ship in lower Manhattan, “It’s a bit of an team, but if you try to elevate too much, feature walls, and the fitting rooms are a was an opportunity that came up but we unknown,” Gindi said. “I am sure there you lose the value element. We are using cut above those at other Century 21 stores, have been discussing our future. But I will be some cannibalization. A lot of this as a test to understand what is too with wood stools, wood veneer and great- don’t have a crystal ball. I can’t see over people who live in Brooklyn shop our much and where to step back.” The pre- er space. “It’s not revolutionary for retail, the mountains.”

OBITUARY Nina Ricci’s Gérard Pipart Dies at 79 the years he counted the queens ture has lasted a lot longer than By ALEX WYNNE of Thailand and Norway, Grand anyone ever thought.” Duchess Joséphine-Charlotte of His death was announced on PARIS — Gérard Pipart, the Luxembourg and Marcela Pérez Saturday by French fashion’s designer of Nina Ricci couture de Cuéllar among his clients. governing body, the Fédération for more than 30 years, died on “My goal is to make a woman Française de la Couture du Prêt- Friday following a long illness. beautiful,” Pipart said in the à-Porter des Couturiers et des VAUTHEY/SYGMA/CORBIS Pipart, who was 79, joined 1995 interview. Créateurs de Mode. Nina Ricci in 1964 at the age of In 1987, he was awarded the “He was a central figure at PIERRE Gérard Pipart BY 30 and designed the house’s cou- Dé d’Or, or Golden Thimble, for a pivotal moment for fashion,” in 1987.

ture collection until Spain’s Puig best couture collection. said Federation president Didier PHOTO bought the brand and dropped At the time when Puig de- Grumbach, who remembered the couture line in 1998. cided to close down Nina Ricci Pipart as a “charming” man. Marc Bohan at Jean Patou. and creative, and broke with He was only the third coutu- couture, the workshop still em- “He was considered at the “I remember him as a nice accepted codes of the time,” rier in the house’s history after ployed 90 seamstresses. time as one of the most talented boy and a good worker,” de Grumbach continued. Ricci herself and Jules-François “I’m amazed I stayed so designers,” he added, explain- Givenchy reminisced over the His work was featured in the Crahay. long,” Pipart said on the occa- ing that he arrived at Ricci to telephone. “He was serious and recent Chloé retrospective at “At the time, Nina Ricci sion of his 30th anniversary at design couture when the first keen to learn.” the Palais de Tokyo here. dressed ‘la grande bourgeoisie.’ the house. “When I arrived ev- true ready-to-wear collections Before joining Nina Ricci, A funeral is scheduled for I was only 30, young and full of eryone was predicting the death began to emerge. Pipart worked for five years at Wednesday at 3:30 p.m. in new ideas, so it was all pretty of couture, so I was keen to get Pipart studied at the Ecole Chloé, the house’s first stylist Olonne-sur-Mer, in the Vendée different and I had to adjust,” in for what were meant to be de la Chambre Syndicale de la after founder Gaby Aghion, and region on France’s Atlantic Pipart told WWD in 1995. the final few years. And, despite Couture Parisienne and worked gained a reputation there for his coast, where Pipart had been Pipart’s couture style was ex- what people like Pierre Bergé with Pierre Balmain, Jacques avant-garde creations. living for several years since he uberant and feminine, and over and many others predicted, cou- Fath, Hubert de Givenchy and “He was extremely inventive retired from Nina Ricci.