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Home , Perfume

C. X. Wang, Sh. L. Chen* and its Application

College of Textile and Garments, in the Textile Field Southern Yangtze University, Wuxi 214122, P.R. China Tel.: 086-510-5515066 Fax: 086-510-5515066 Abstract E-mail: [email protected] A research attempt at obtaining aromatherapic textiles which we carried out is presented, together with the broad background of research into aromachology investigation. We *College of and Chemical , developed aromatherapic textiles using the fragrance with β-cyclodextrin inclusion com- Donghua University, pounds. The sedative effects for emotion and the pharmaceutical effects of essential are Shanghai 200051 P.R. China presented in detail, on the basis of the achievements of aromachology and . Research shows that the effects of fragrance on humans are based on a great deal of medi- cal experience. β-cyclodextrin was chosen for the aromatherapic textile as host molecule, because it exhibits qualities which are beneficial for the human body. β-cyclodextrins mol- ecules are capable of forming inclusion compounds with fragrances that fit into the cone- shaped hydrophobic cavity. As a result, the release-fragrance rates are greatly decreased. The fragrance inclusion compounds are fixed onto cotton with a low temperature binder by the conventional pad-thermofixed method. The fragrance-release rates are related to the nature of the fragrance oils themselves. The results of sensorial evaluations show that the of fabric is sensed for over 30 days. An aromatherapic textile could be achieved by means of the fragrance with β-cyclodextrin inclusion compounds in this way. Key words: Aroma-chology, aromatherapy textile, pharmacological effects, physiological effects, perfume microcapsule. n Intruduction The developments of the aromatherapy The new development in textile is selling phenomenon after 1980 diversified along for active wear, leisurewear and intimate Pure fragrance compounds and essential four basic avenues [4]: Medical and ho- apparel. The approach will combine in- oils have been used traditionally in folk listic medical aromatherapy as practiced novative fibre and textile technologies medicine for a long time. It is discussed in France, popular and esoteric aroma- designed to appeal beyond their basic nowadays because of its viable holistic therapy as found in publications in all physiological and functional benefits [7]. pharmaceutical effects and the trend western societies, aromatherapy applied The Research Institute on Social Change back to natural drugs and therapies in during massage as practiced mainly in (RISC) has identified the key trends medicine. The term aromatherapy was Great Britain, and the scientific study of shaping consumer attitudes and motiva- coined in the late 1920s by the French fragrance as encouraged by the Fragrance tions. The investigation showed that we cosmetic chemist R.M. Gattefosse, who Research Fund. have a need for balance, pleasure and noticed the excellent antiseptic proper- enjoyment, excitement and renewal, and ties and skin permeability of essential In the meantime, beauty companies have personalisation, and its trends reflected oils [1]. Dr G. Bauchbauer, a modern begun to incorporate aromachology or that. [8] aromatherapist of renown, has proposed aromatherapy into their product devel- the following definition of the word opment. The US sales of all home Balance translates as distressing and re- aromatherapy: therapeutic uses of fra- fragrance products, which are divided storative in a range of innovative fabrics grances which at least mere volutilize into environmental fragrances and fresh- that are pampering and energising. Pleas- to cure and to mitigate or cure diseases, eners, climbed nearly 11 percent to $1.96 ure and enjoyment, on the one hand, is infection and indisposition by means of billion in 1999, over 1998 sales of $1.77 about daring to be different, but also inhalation alone [2]. billion, according to information from about forgetting stress. Excitement and The term aromachology [1] was coined Kalorama, a New York City-based mar- active wear is a form of communication. in 1982 to denote the science that is dedi- ket research firm. The investigation of Finally, personalisation is about self-ex- cated to the study of the interrelation- US retail sales of home fragrance shows pression and individuality [9]. ship between psychology and fragrance that sales increased 9.7 percent, from technology to elicit a variety of specific $1.35 billion in 1995 to $1.96 billion in The scents of lavender, , or feelings and emotions – such as relaxa- 1999, and are projected to increase by 7.9 were encapsulated into fabrics, tion, exhilaration, sensuality, happiness percent to $2.87 billion in 2004 [5]. The which proved a good way to meet impor- and well-being – through odours via the most strongly performing sector is envi- tant psychological and emotional needs, stimulation of olfactory pathways in the ronmental fragrances, which comprise as well as those of a purely physical and brain, especially the limbic system [3]. , aromatherapy products, and sensorial nature [10]. These kinds of fab- The difference between aromatherapy and specialty products such as rics are so-called aromatherapic textiles. aromachology is difficult to describe def- and scented drawer liners. The investiga- initely and succinctly. Notwithstanding tion shows that sales of environmental The aim of this study is to discuss the the evident relationships between then, fragrances are driven by the ‘cocooning’ current state of investigation into the they have different research methods and trend to create pleasant home environ- application of aromachology in textiles, research directions. Regrettably, in the ments, as well as by the products’ func- as well as the development of aromath- scientific world, the definition of aroma- tional use as odour neutralisers, insect erapic textiles which we have carried out. therapy has not as yet been made clear. repellents or smoke reducers [6]. These textiles manufactured with the use

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / December 2005, Vol. 13, No. 6 (54) 41 of β-cyclodextrins and the encapsulation Torii investigated the effects of odours Nasel performed Xe-computer-tomo- technique can elicit a variety of specific upon the skin’s potential level (SPL) graphic studies on eight healthy volun- feelings and emotions, such as relaxa- [15]. SPLs are related to mental per- teers aged between 20 and 30 years old, tion, exilaration, and happiness, and can spiration, and corresponded well with and one tested anosmatic woman, with also kill harmful bacteria, thanks to the the arousal level of the subject: -40 mV a view to observing the cerebral blood achievements of aromachology and aro- upon awakening, -60 mV at the time of flow upon inhalation of 1,8-cineole [16]. matherapy. In all cases, the CBF of these subjects excitement, and near zero mV during increased when they inhaled this com- sleep. Measurements of the SPL via the pound. The anosmatic woman reacted contingent negative variation (CNV) n Research works in exactly the same way. It showed that of aromachology clearly showed the variation of the SPL an increased CBF could not be the re- in parallel with the level of activity of During the past ten years, a considerable sult of a reflectoric event. In addition, the sympathetic nervous system. Torii amount of research has been conducted the concentration of 1,8-cineole in the reported that the scent of camomile in the United States, Europe and Japan to blood was determined. Resorption was measure not only the effects of fragrance produced a sedative effect, while the very fast, as could be shown during the upon feeling, moods and emotions, but scent of jasmine oil was stimulating. period from 4 to 20 minutes by an almost also upon several areas of response [11]: electrical activity in the brain, physiolog- Table 1. The pharmaceutical effects of essential oils [3,4]. ical parameters such as the heart rate and skin conductance, cognitive functions Effects and voluntary & involuntary behaviour. Sedation Mint, Onion, , Metasequoia Coalescence , , lavender, Onion, Thyme Belaiche determined the effectiveness Diuresis Pine, lavender Onion. Thyme, Fennel, Lemon, Metasequoia Pine, lavender. Mint, , Thyme, , Chamomile,, of 42 essential oils against the 12 most Facilitating Menses Lemon common pathogenic micro-organisms Dismissing sputum Onion, Citrus, Thyme, Chamomile through an extensive series of experi- Allaying a fever , Fennel, Chamomile, Lemon ments [12]. An ‘Aromatic Index’ was in- Hypnogenesis Lavender, Oregano, Basil, Chamomile troduced, which characterised the overall Curing Hypertension Lavender. Fennel, Lemon, Ylangylang effectiveness of the investigated essential Pine, Ginger, Clove, Mint, Onion, Citrus, Rosemary, Thyme, Fennel, Basil, Be good for stomach Cinnamon oils against all the pathogens studied. Diaphoresis Pine, lavender, Rosemary, Thyme, Chamomile, Metasequoia He found that the essential oils with a Expelling wind Ginger, Clove, Onion, Citrus, Rosemary, Fennel, Lemon higher Aromatic Index could effectively Losing weigh Onion, Cinnamon, Lemon prevent Escherichia coli, Proteus mor- Vanilla, lavender. Mint, Onion, Citrus, Rosemary, Chamomile, Cinnamon, gani, Candida albicans, Staphylococcus Relieving pain Lemon aureus etc. Detoxification Lavender Curing diabetes Vanilla, Onion, Chamomile, Lemon Vanilla, Ginger, Clove, lavender. Mint, Onion, Oregano, Rosemary, Thyme, Torii et al. studied the contingent negative Stopping diarrhea Chamomile, Cinnamon, Lemon variation (CNV) and the physiological Curing flu Pine, lavender, Mint, Onion, Citrus, Rosemary, Thyme, Chamomile, effects of odours in humans [13]. They Cinnamon, Metasequoia found that the presentation of a jasmine Curing rheumatism Lavender, Onion, Citrus, Rosemary, Thyme, Metasequoia Pine, Ginger, Clove, Mint, Onion, Rosemary, Thyme, Fennel, Relieving odour caused a significant increase in Urging sexual passion spasm. Cinnamon the CNV measured at the frontal and left Clove, lavender, Mint, Onion, Citrus, Rosemary, Fennel Basil, Chamomile, Promoting appetite Cinnamon, Lemon, Metasequoia central sides of the cortex, while a laven- Relieving cough Rosemary der odour caused a significant decrease. Taking a nap and drinking a cup of coffee changed the CNV in the same direction; Table 2. The sedative effects/or emotion of essential oils [5]. an increase in the CNV was interpreted as signalling stimulation and a decrease Emotion Essential Oils with the Sedative Effects as signalling relaxation. Anxiety , Lemon, Chamomile. Rose, , Clove, Jasmine Lament Rose Bauchbauer’s team studied the effects of Stimulation , Balm oil single aroma chemicals and essential oils Anger Chamomile, Balm oil. Rose, Ylangylang inhaled by mice [14]. They investigated Wretchedness Basil, Cypress, Mint, 44 chemicals and essentials with ascribed Chamomile, Jasmine, Balm oil Distrustfulness Lavender sedative effects on humans. The studies Tension Camphor, Cypress, Vanilla. Jasmine. Balm oil. Lavender, showed that , its main con- Melancholy Basil, Lemon, Chamomile, Vanilla, Jasmine, Lavender, Mint, Rose stituents, and linalyl acetate, as Hysteria Chamomile, Balm oil, Lavender, Jasmine well as oil, benzaldehyde and East Mania Basil, Jasmine, Pine Indian , decreased the Irritability Chamomile, Camphor, Cypress, Lavender motility of untreated mice by 40-78%, Desolation Jasmine, Pine, Patchouli, Rosemary compared with the control group.

42 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / December 2005, Vol. 13, No. 6 (54) FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / December 2005, Vol. 13, No. 6 (54) 43 linear increase of the 1,8-cineole concen- surface of the textile is also an impor- of about 10,000 rpm for 5 minutes. The tration up to a maximum value of about tant part of preparing an aromatherapic emulsified system was transferred into a 275 ng/ml serum. When the inhalation textile. At the same time, durability in flask. The fragrance alcohol solution was was stopped, the concentration of this laundering and a soft handle should be added into the emulsified solutions over chemical in venous blood dropped im- carefully considered [27]. 30 minutes, and stirred at a temperature mediately. It showed that this essential of 40 oC for 2 hours. Then the was very safe for the human body. Although there are many effective ap- inclusions were fixed onto cotton with a proaches to micro-encapsulation for de- low-temperature binder by the conven- Many methods have been applied in aro- creasing fragrance-release, cyclodextrins tional pad-thermofixed method at 80 oC matherapy research in order to verify the are the best regarding safety to the human for 3 minutes. so-called healing effects of aroma chemi- body, because β-cyclodextrin has no skin cals and essential oils. It is very difficult irritation, no skin sensibilisation and no The uses of aromatherapy textile are to separate the psychological from the mutagenic effect [28]. diverse. Interior textiles such as sheets, pharmacological. In fact, more research quilt-covers, curtains, carpets and bed- work is needed. Cyclodextrins are non-reducing cycli- gowns are suitable for the attachment of cally linked oligosaccharides produced lavender, camomile, citrus or cinnamon n Effects of aromatherapy by certain micro-organisms of cultivated microcapsules, which are good for hyp- starch, which are capable of forming in- nogenesis and eliminating fatigue. Pa- Lavender is the most used and most ver- clusion compounds with molecules that tients suffering high blood pressure feel satile of all the essential oils. It is a very fit into their cone-shaped hydrophobic sedation when they use a pillow made of useful oil, especially when symptoms fabric treated with lavender, basil, lemon are due to a nervous problem [17]. The cavity [29]. As a result of the inclusion, or fennel microcapsules. The tired office effects of lemon, camomile, rose, carda- the physico-chemical properties of the clerk wearing clothing with a scent of mom, clove, and jasmine fragrance oils compounds are changed, e. g. the vapour lemon, rose, or jasmine oil may find his on human have been confirmed by many pressure of volatile substance is reduced, work efficiency improved. Meanwhile, it research works. The sedative effects for and stabilities against light or air are en- is convenient for dermatosis sufferers to the pharmaceutical and emotional effects hanced. On the other hand, the harmful be cured with the aid of underwear con- of essential oils are listed in Tables 1 and and/or unpleasant odour in the surround- taining killing gem fabric. Perfumed toys 2 respectively [18-22]. ing may be eliminated [30]. Furthermore, cyclodextrins clamped on cellulose do make it easier for children to get closer to not affect the cellulose’s properties, and nature. Generally speaking, varied per-

n Microcapsules and cyclodextrins keep their ability to form fume fabrics create good opportunities aromatherapy textiles inclusion complexes with other suitable for customers to make the ‘cocooning’ environment they prefer to live in. The fragrance compound and the essen- molecules [31]. Thus, cyclodextrins are tial oil are volatile substances. The most the first choice in preparing aromath- difficult task in preparing the aromather- erapy textiles. n Fragrance release property apy textile is how to prolong its lifetime of odours. Micro-encapsulation is an ef- The detailed analysis described above There were several different sections to fective technique to solve this [23, 24]. allowed us to select the following pro- the cyclodextrin’s molecular encapsula- Microcapsules are minute containers that cedure. The fragrance with β-cyclodex- tion compared with other widely-used are normally spherical if they enclose a trin inclusions were formed by mixture encapsulation processes. The enclosed liquid or gas, and roughly of the shape solution containing alcohol and distilled substance was totally or partially includ- of the enclosed particle if they contain water (1:3). The solution was emulsi- ed in the cyclodextrin cavity. This system a solid. It can be considered as a special fied with a high-speed mixer at a speed was reversible and was not sealed com- form of packaging, in that particulate matter can be individually coated for pro- tection against environment and release the volatile substance from the enclosed capsule as required. This property has enabled microcapsules to serve many useful functions and find applications in different fields of technology [25]. For example, the storage life of a volatile compound can be increased markedly by micro-encapsuling [26].

The key to aromatherapic textile is how to make microcapsules of fragrance com- pounds and essential oils without omit- ting any ingredient in order to ensure its pharmaceutical effects. In addition, using a low-temperature polymer binder to attach a perfumed microcapsule to the Figure 1. The rate of fragrance-release from microcapsules.

42 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / December 2005, Vol. 13, No. 6 (54) FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe January / December 2005, Vol. 13, No. 6 (54) 43 Table 3. Sensorial evaluation of scent intensity. 12. Buchbauer, G. Methods in Aromatherapy Research. Perfume & Flavorist., 1996, Fragrance Scent intensity 21, 31-36. substance 5 days 10 days 15 days 20 days 25 days 30 days 13. Buchbauer, G. 1993. Therapeutic Proper- Rosemary +++++ +++++ ++++ +++ +++ ++ ties of Essential Oils and Fragrance. Bio- active Volatile Compounds from . Lavender +++++ ++++ +++ ++ ++ + 25,159-165. Jasmine +++++ +++++ ++++ +++ ++ ++ 14. Schnaubelt, K. 1995. Essential oils Lemon +++++ ++++ +++ ++ + + – Viable Holistic Pharmaceuticals for the Sandalwood +++++ +++++ ++++ +++ +++ ++ Future. Flavors, Fragrance and Essential Oils. Proceedings of the 13th Internatio- +++++ express very strong, ++++ express strong, +++ express common, ++ express weak, + express very weak. nal congress of Flavors, Fragrance and Essential oils. 3, 15-19. 15. Martin, G. 1996. Olfactory Remediation: pletely. The forms of the microcapsule n Summary current evidence and possible applica- were able to notably decrease the rate of tion. Soc. Sci. Med. 43, 63-70. fragrance-release. Aromatherapy is increasingly popular as 16. Buchbauer, G. Aromatherapy: Methods one of many approaches to healing with of its investigation. Dtsch. Apoth. Ztg. natural substances which are favoured 1996,136(35):21-26. The fabric treated with the inclusion 17. Buchbauer, G. Aromatherapy: evidence compound was extracted by alcohol for by the public, and make it possible for for sedative effects of the essential oil of 12 hours. The fragrance concentration on the individual to attempt self-therapy at lavender after inhalation. Biosci. 1991; the fabric was measured on a UV-3000 home. As close friends of humans, tex- 46(11-12):1067-1072. reflectance spectrophotometer. The exci- tiles can make aromatherapy easy wher- 18. Buchbauer, G. Aromatherapy/aroma- chology within the cosmetic discipline. tation wavelength was 276 nm. ever they are needed. Micro-encapsula- tion can effectively control the release SOFW. 1995,121(9):46-49. 19. Key, M. 1999 Aromatherapy: The Art of The controlled-release properties are rate of the fragrance compounds and Being a Good Neighbor. Pollution Engi- given in Figure 1. The different rates essential oils as required, which ensures neering. 9, 46-49. of fragrance release of various perfume the storage life of volatile substances. We 20. Buchbauer, G. A study of the variability of commercial ??[[pepprint]] oils by microcapsules were related to the na- may choose various products such as fi- bres, fabrics, non-fabrics and garments to using antimicrobial and pharmacological ture of the fragrance oils themselves. parameters. Med. Sci. Res. 1997, 25(3): The higher the detection threshold of enjoy the pharmaceutical and emotional 151-152. the fragrance compounds, the lower the effects of aromatherapic textiles. We 21. Buchbauer, G. 1993. Fragrance com- rate of fragrance release of the inclusion believe that aromatherapy and aroma- pounds and essential oils with sedative compound. therapic textiles are the first choice for effects upon inhalation. American Phar- people who want to keep healthy in their maceutical Association. 52,560-664. daily life, and these textiles will become 22. Kazaki Y. The rose in aromatherapy. A sensorial evaluation of results was also Aromatopia. 1998,18:56-59. performed by a group of 10 well-trained a in the near future. 23. Shirley Institute. New Finishes Using Mi- subjects, in insulated booths where the croencapsulation. Textile Month. 1988(5): fabrics were kept on an open desk at 49-49. 24. Mei W-P. Application of Microencapsula- room temperature, and smelled every References tion Technology in Textile Coloration and five days in order to sense the scents. The Finishing. Journal-China-Textile-Institute. test panel evaluation results were listed 1. Butcher, Dana. Aromatherapy – its Past and Future. DCI. 1998, 162(3):22-23. 1995,5(3):188-191. in Table 3. 2. Buchbauer, G. 1994. Aromatherapy: Use 25. Schaab, C.B. Impregnating Nonwoven of fragrance and essential oils as medi- Fabrics with Microencapsulated Compo- As the ‘second skin’ of the human body, caments. Flavour and Fragrance Journal. nents. Nonwovens-. 1985,16(11): 9,217-222. 14-19. all types of textile are excellent media 26. Aggarwal A.K. 1998 Microencapsulation for transferring fragrance compounds, 3. Jellinnek, J. S. 1994. Aromachology: A Status Review. Perfume & Flavorist. processes and applications in textile and are essential to people according 19, 25-49. processing. Colourage. 45,15-24. to their preference for them. As was 4. Wu Chao-Hsiang. Essential Oil and Aroma- 27. Gordon, N. Microencapsulation in textile already mentioned above, now we may therapy. Kexue Nong Ye. 1999, 47(3):1-3. finishing; Rev. Prog. Color. 2001,31(3): summarise that aromatherapic textiles 5. Mazzaro, D. 2000. The home fragrance 57-63. 28. Buschmann, H-J. Cyclodextrins and based on lavender, lemon, chamomile, market. Chemical Market Reporter, Au- gust 4:14. Dextrins as New Auxiliaries in Dyeing. rose, cardamom, clove, or jasmine has 6. Landau, P. Kline Study shows double-di- Melliand Textilberchite,1991,72(12): sedative effect, which fits for bed gown, git growth for home fragrances. Chemical 1012-1014. underwear, sheets, curtains, carpets etc. Market Reporter. 1999, 256(9):18. 29. Buschmann, H-J.. Finishing of Basil, Chamomile, and lavender can be 7. No author. New direction for Tacel. Inter- Cotton in the Presence of Cyclodextrins for Depositing Fragrances. Melliand Te- served for restraining bacterium textiles. national Dyer. 2000,185 (8):2. 8. No author, 2000. A scent of the unusual. xtilberchite,1991(3). We may increase work efficiency after International Dyer. 185,26-26. 30. Buschmann, H-J.. The Use of Cyclode- inhaling jasmine, Lavender and Mint 9. Bartolomeo, J. Aromarama. Women’s xtrins in Textile Processes. J,Text. Inst. scent deposited on aromatherapic gar- Sports & Fitness. 1999,3(11-12):84. 1998(89):554-561. ment. Generally speaking, restraining 10. Matsushi-Shikiso Chemical Co. Ltd. 31. Buschmann, H-J. Removal of Residual bacterium product is usually be used on Fixing Odourous to Textiles. High-Per- Surfactant Deposits from Textile Materials formance-Textiles. 1994(8):7-8. with the Aid of Cyclodextrins. . Melliand underwear, whereas outerwear such as 11. Aromatherapy: the search for ‘stress Textilberchite. 1995(9). a sweater is good to fulfil other pharma- solutions’. Global . ceutical effects of essential oils. 2000,167(7):66.. Received 04.01.2005 Reviewed 19.04.2005

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