Perfume Science
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Load more
Recommended publications
-
Basic Perfume Primer
THE INSTITUTE FOR ART AND OLFACTION BASIC PERFUME PRIMER TABLE OF CONTENTS • About the IAO o Mission statement o Philosophy o This primer • Taxonomies: o Top, middle, base o Fragrance families • Materials: o Aromatic chemicals o Naturals, synthetics, accords o Essential oil vs. absolute vs. etc. • Working with Scent: o Working with the materials o Lab safety basics o Pipettes, scent strips, beakers o Techniques for Smelling o IAO best practices ABOUT THIS DOCUMENT This document was prepared by staff and instructors at the Institute for Art and Olfaction, with a view of providing some foundational knowledge for IAO students and curious minds just coming to perfumery. Contributors include Ashley Eden Kessler, Minetta Rogers, Saskia Wilson-Brown and Timothy Van Ausdal, as well as online sources such as The Fragrance Society, The Perfume Expert, Mandy Aftel, Michael Edwards, Wikipedia and Science for New Students. We invite you to share this information under the guides of the Creative Commons Attribution- ShareAlike 4.0 International License. This license lets others remix, tweak, and build upon this work - even for commercial purposes - as long as they credit the IAO and other contributors, and license their new creations under the identical terms. With this license, you are free to share (copy and redistribute the material in any medium or format) and adapt (remix, transform, and build upon the material for any purpose, even commercially) this work. The IAO cannot revoke these freedoms as long as you follow the license terms. ABOUT THE IAO MISSION STATEMENT Founded in September 2012 in Los Angeles, The Institute for Art and Olfaction is a 501(c)3 non- profit devoted to advancing public, artistic and experimental engagement with scent. -
The Senses in Early Modern England, 1558–1660
5 Seeing smell Holly Dugan In January 2013, the Institute for Art and Olfaction commissioned graphic artist Micah Hahn and his design studio AutumnSeventy to create a series of prints on perfumery to commemorate its opening in Los Angeles.1 The result was Molecules, Series 1, which depicts three of the most influential molecules that defined twentieth-century perfumery – aldehyde C12, Iso E Super®, and Galaxolide.2 Gilded and embossed, the prints emphasize the chemical structure of these molecules, even as it renders them as fine art. That the prints are also lightly scented with each aromachemical depicted on it emphasizes the broader, and one might say synaesthetic, take on the mission of the institute: to connect fineart with olfaction. Although it is a visual representation of molecules that define modern perfumery, Molecules, Series 1 thus joins a long art historical tradition of cross-modal representations of sensation, particularly smell. Can a molecule be considered fine art? And, if so, which representation of that molecule best captures its olfactory beauty and renders it ‘visible’? Consider, for example, Hahn’s Galaxolide (Figure 3). It playfully invokes a wide variety of sensory modes to capture the aesthetic of Galaxolide. The print highlights both its chemical formula – C18H26 O – and its structural formula. Both are linked to its cultural associations with perfumery and public health. Galaxolide is a second-generation polycyclic synthetic musk, discovered in the 1960s, meant to synthesize the natural scent of deer musk. Translated into the language of public health, it is a hydrophobic but lipophilic ‘toxin’: it won’t wash off in water and is easily stored in human fat.3 Rendered into the language of commercial perfumery, however, it smells ‘clean’, a ‘musky, flowery, woody odor’ with a ‘sweet, powdery nuance’.4 Both its scent and its structure made it ideal for use in laundry detergents and soaps. -
Perfume and Pomanders : Scent and Scent Bottles Through the Ages Pdf, Epub, Ebook
PERFUME AND POMANDERS : SCENT AND SCENT BOTTLES THROUGH THE AGES PDF, EPUB, EBOOK E. Launet | 212 pages | 24 Sep 1999 | Potterton Books Publishing | 9781870599016 | English | Thirsk, United Kingdom Perfume and Pomanders : Scent and Scent Bottles through the Ages PDF Book You are commenting using your WordPress. Eau de cologne containing rosemary, bergamot and bitter orange. Glass is a brittle solid compound composed of silica, sand, soda and lime. I just love perfume bottles but had no idea of the long history. This revolutionised the industry since mass production was possible. War: gunpowder, horses, wet earth, anxiety sweat, leather. This work called for a high degree of skill. Some have argued that the glass industry of Venice did not emerge as a result of the Mesopotamian, Phoenician and Roman influence, but developed independently. The technique of glass-blowing was invented in Syria in the first century BC. Examples of perfume bottles drawn principally from the Schwarzkopf collection in Steinhorst. During the Middle Ages, people became afraid of drinking water for fear of an epidemic. Ziolkowsky GmbH The topper is a simple, dark blue triangular shape. These were openwork metal balls that could be filled with various combinations of aromatics that varied according to recipe, availability, and budget. I have loved perfumes since I was a little girl and I have a pretty substantial collection. Lichtenberger, Marianne Due gocce di profumo Milano: Idealibri England, in particular, produced unique glass perfume bottle decorated with enamelling and often gilded. Date To visit an English town in the late fourteenth century is a bewildering and extreme sensory experience. -
Boss Bottled HUGO BOSS Coty 1998 0,7 5 Woody Fruity
P e r fu m e your world RANKING P e r fu m e your world UNISEX 66,1 million € WOMEN + 19,1% vs 2016 MEN 887,8 million € 574,7 million € + 5,2 % vs 2016 + 3,9% vs 2016 TOTA 1.53 milliard € in 2017 + 5.3% vs 2016 2 FINE P e r fu m e your world YEAR OF MARKET RANKING OLFACTIVE OLFACTIVE RANKING PERFUME BRAND GROUP LAUNCH SHARE (%) 2016 FAMILY SUB-FAMILY Coco 1 CHANEL Chanel 2001 4,2 1 Chypre Fruity Mademoiselle 2 Chanel N°5 CHANEL Chanel 1921 2,4 2 Floral Aldehydic YVES SAINT 3 Black Opium L’Oréal 2014 2,1 5 Floriental Ambery LAURENT La Vie est 4 LANCÔME L'Oréal 2012 2,1 4 Floriental Woody Belle 5 Lady Million PACO RABANNE Puig 2010 2,0 3 Floriental Edible 6 Alien MUGLER Clarins 2005 1,7 6 Floral Woody 7 J'adore CHRISTIAN DIOR LVMH 1999 1,6 7 Floral Fruity 8 Gabrielle CHANEL Chanel 2017 1,5 NEW Floral Green 9 Diamonds EMPORIO ARMANI L’Oréal 2007 1,4 9 Floriental Fruity 10 Olympéa PACO RABANNE Puig 2015 1,3 8 Floriental Green 11 Miss Dior CHRISTIAN DIOR LVMH 2005 1,3 25 Chypre Fruity 12 Si ARMANI L’Oréal 2013 1,2 14 Chypre Fruity 13 Daisy MARC JACOBS Coty 2007 1,2 13 Floral Fruity 14 Angel MUGLER Clarins 1992 1,1 11 Oriental Edible 15 Bamboo GUCCI Coty 2015 1,0 10 Floral Spicy 4 P e r fu m e your world YEAR OF MARKET RANKING OLFACTIVE OLFACTIVE RANKING PERFUME BRAND GROUP LAUNCH SHARE (%) 2016 FAMILY SUB-FAMILY 16 Flowerbomb VIKTOR & ROLF L’Oréal 2005 1,0 15 Floral Oriental 17 Coco CHANEL Chanel 1984 1,0 17 Floriental Spicy 18 Chance CHANEL Chanel 2002 0,9 18 Chypre Floral 19 Scandal JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Puig 2017 0,9 NEW Oriental Edible 20 -
Analysis of Impression Evaluation of Fragrances Associated with ‘Omotenashi’ in Elderly People Using Perfumes – Including Comparative with Young People –
TInrtaenrsnaactitoionnasl Joof uJranpaal no fS Aofcfeiecttyiv oef EKnagnisneie Eringineering J-STAGE Advance Published Date: 2020.09.16 doi: 10.5057/ijae.IJAE-D-20-00016 ORIGINAL ARTICLE Analysis of Impression Evaluation of Fragrances Associated with ‘Omotenashi’ in Elderly People using Perfumes – Including Comparative with Young People – Harumi NAKAGAWA and Noriaki KUWAHARA Kyoto Institute of Technology, Matsugasaki, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto 606-8585, Japan Abstract: In this study, we used 6 different fragrances to better understand the tendency of scents to elicit a sense of omotenashi (hospitality) in elderly people. To first understand how elderly people perceive scents associated with feelings of omotenashi we performed an impression evaluation using SD method of 22 adjective pairs. We then analyzed the results taken from a questionnaire survey we conducted on 51 elderly Japanese men and women using a factor analysis, and extracted the factors that represent sensations of scents which produced a sense of omotenashi. Our subsequent examination of the main underlying factors indicated that scents with sensations of freshness, adulthood and pleasure hinted a sense of omotenashi in scents for elderly people. We also noted differences in the way the scent was perceived compared to young people. Keywords: Elderly, SD method, Fragrances Japan’s super-aged society, Shiizuka proposes a frame- 1. INTRODUCTION work for leveraging the ‘meta-kansei engineering’ method. The proposal, based on data from the White Paper on How much information do we receive and perceive Ageing Society published by the Cabinet Office, provides from scents in 24 hours of our daily lives? The informa- examples of training the five senses, including the sense tion on these scents is will differ depending on the kansei of smell and “expressing different fragrances” [4]. -
University of Cincinnati
UNIVERSITY OF CINCINNATI Date: August 13, 2006. I, Grettel Zamora-Estrada , hereby submit this work as a part of the requirements of the degree of: Master of Science (M.S.) . in: Pharmaceutical Sciences . It is entitled: Partitioning of Perfume Raw Materials in Conditioning Shampoos using Gel Network Technology________________________________________ ty . This work and its defense approved by: Chair: Gerald B. Kasting, Ph. D. _____________ R. Randall Wickett, Ph.D. Eric S. Johnson, Ph.D. Kevin M. Labitzke, A.S. _ . Partitioning of Perfume Raw Materials in Conditioning Shampoos using Gel Network Technology by Grettel Zamora-Estrada A dissertation proposal synopsis Submitted in partial fulfillment Of the requirements for the degree of M.S. Pharmaceutical Sciences University of Cincinnati College of Pharmacy Cincinnati, Ohio July 23, 2006 ii ABSTRACT Gel network technology in conditioning shampoo represents an advantage over traditional silicone 2-in-1 technology due to its main benefits: dry conditioning, wet feel and lower cost. The purpose of this study was to do a proof of principle investigation and to study the main factors that affected partitioning of PRMs into the gel network system shampoos and determine the effect that perfume incorporation had on the shampoo stability of the different formulations . Gel network premixes (literally a conditioner) were formulated then incorporated into a standard shampoo base. Changes in formulation of the gel network such as chain length of fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol ratios were done and its effect on stability and perfume migration studied. A technical accord with 25 PRMs with a very wide range of physical properties was used as a marker. -
Onboard Shopping
THE MALL ONBOARD SHOPPING Boordverkopen uitsluitend op vluchten van en naar Amsterdam Inflight sales only available on flights to and from Amsterdam Fragrances & BEAUTY Take a look at our beautiful collection of fragrances for you to buy onboard. Carolina Herrera 212 VIP Woman Calvin Klein Obsession Beyoncé Heat Kissed Big name brands at incredible prices – Eau de Parfum 50ml Eau de Parfum 50ml Eau de Parfum 100ml While stocks last! 212 VIP embodies the lifestyle of young, stylish, modern and A lasting and powerful oriental fragrance that is as appealing today as it Heat Kissed – A floral, fruity, woody perfume creative people, always ready for fun. Seductive-floral. was at it’s launch back in 1985. It evokes the sensuality and ardour of passion that features rare and sensual flowers and is both Irresistible. Rum, Gardenia, Tonka bean. and romantic obsession. A haunting, long-lasting and intensely feminine. A captivating scent that unlashes a spirited fire within. 50 20 20 Versace Woman Eau de Parfum 50ml Love, Passion, Beauty and Desire. Perfection of the male body is fused with the allusion to the Greek mythology and classic sculpture that has characterised the Versace World since the beginning. Roberto Cavalli Lancôme La Vie est Belle Versace Miniatures Collection Eau de Toilette 5 x 5ml Eau de Parfum 50ml Eau de Parfum 50ml 20 5 of the most desirable jewel fragrances by Versace. Elegant and sensual bouquets A luminous and sexy print. The fragrance wraps the silhouette of the Life is beautiful… An eau de parfum with the noblest of ingredients: conveying freshness and vital energy. -
Oil Extraction and Perfume Formulation from Plants: a Review
International Journal of Research and Review www.ijrrjournal.com E-ISSN: 2349-9788; P-ISSN: 2454-2237 Review Article Oil Extraction and Perfume Formulation from Plants: A Review S. J. Kulkarni Datta Meghe College of Engineering, Airoli, Navi Mumbai, Maharashtra, India. Received: 21/10/2016 Revised: 16/11/2016 Accepted: 16/11/2016 ABSTRACT Perfume industries are growing in demand as the living standards are improving day by day. There is increasing demand for perfumes. They mask the body odor. Various methods such as solvent extraction, hydro distillation and enfleurag can be used for oil extraction. Distillation based recovery processes such as steam and vacuum distillation are preferred for the extraction of essential oils from plant materials. Other methods include solvent extraction, expression or enfleurage. The current review summarizes research on various methods for oil extraction and perfume formation from various raw materials. Key words: Distillation, extraction, yield, essential oil, solvent. INTRODUCTION and animal substances are traditionally used Fragrance oil(s) are also known as for perfume formation. Essential oils, pure aroma oils, aromatic oils, and flavor oils. grain oil and water are three key ingredients They are synthetic aroma compounds or in relation to perfume making. Essential natural essential oils that are diluted with a oils, or volatile oils, are found in many carrier like propylene glycol, vegetable oil, different plants. Investigations are reported or mineral oil. Perfume is a mixture of on oil extraction by distillation for fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds, modification and optimization. [1,2] Various fixatives and solvents. It gives a pleasant analytical and physical aspects have been scent to the human body, animals, food, investigated by various investigators. -
Risk Factors and Costs Influencing Hospitalizations Due to Heat-Related Illnesses: Patterns of Hospitalization
City University of New York (CUNY) CUNY Academic Works All Dissertations, Theses, and Capstone Projects Dissertations, Theses, and Capstone Projects 2-2015 Risk factors and costs influencing hospitalizations due ot heat- related illnesses: patterns of hospitalization Michael T. Schmeltz Graduate Center, City University of New York How does access to this work benefit ou?y Let us know! More information about this work at: https://academicworks.cuny.edu/gc_etds/621 Discover additional works at: https://academicworks.cuny.edu This work is made publicly available by the City University of New York (CUNY). Contact: [email protected] Risk factors and costs influencing hospitalizations due to heat-related illnesses: patterns of hospitalization by Michael T. Schmeltz A dissertation submitted to the Graduate Faculty in Public Health in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Public Health, The City University of New York 2015 © 2015 Michael T. Schmeltz All Rights Reserved ii This manuscript has been read and accepted for the Graduate Faculty in Public Health in satisfaction of the dissertation requirement for the degree of Doctor of Public Health. Jean A. Grassman ___________ ____________________________________________________ Date Chair of the Examining Committee Denis Nash ___________ ____________________________________________________ Date Executive Officer Grace Sembajwe _________________________________________________ Peter J. Marcotullio _________________________________________________ Stephanie Woolhandler -
Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions the Fougere & Lavender’S
Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions The Fougere & Lavender’s Glen O. Brechbill Fragrance Books Inc. www.perfumerbook.com New Jersey - USA 2011 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill “To my late father and beloved mother without them non of this work would have been possible” II ARRANTING FINE PERFUME COMPOSITIONS - THE FOUGERE LAVENDER’S © This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Please note the enclosed book is based on Fragrance Ingredients by House ©. Designed by Glen O. Brechbill Library of Congress Brechbill, Glen O. Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Fougere Lavender’s / Glen O. Brechbill P. cm. 626 pgs. 1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals. 4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title. Certificate Registry # TXu1 - 364 - 187 Copyright © 2006 by Glen O. Brechbill All Rights Reserved PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First Edition Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - THE FOUGÈRE & LAVENDER’S About the Book The fougère & lavender's is another favorite fragrance family. Originally this concept was intended for Women. However due to the strength of lavender a major component of this family it ended up as a masculine fragrance concept. -
Perfumery in Ancient Greek and Roman Societies
Perfumery in Ancient Greek and Roman Societies erfumery dates back at least 5,000 years, with origins Pin ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt, and Indus Valley culture. The techniques were further refined in the Bronze Age Mediterranean: Minoan records detail oil deliveries for perfumers while Mycenaean tablets also mention perfume manufacture. Later Greek and Roman sources are more specific about perfumes, though the terminology can be somewhat confusing, if not contradictory. Theophrastos (ca. 270–285 BCE; On Odors), Pliny the Elder (23–79 CE; Natural History), and Dioskourides (ca. 40–90 CE; On Medical Material) all covered the subject, in some capacity. Archaeology reveals further evidence, and both religious and funerary contexts can be rich in perfume bottles. The perfume workshop at Pyrgos on Cyprus, excavated in 2003, is among the oldest, dating to ca. 1850 BCE. —Text by Benton Kidd Curator of Ancient Art I. Uses All evidence indicates that perfumery was a thriving industry in antiquity, and one integral to many aspects of ancient culture. Purchases and donations of perfumes for religious sanctuaries were not uncommon, and literary references imply that temples were kept fragrant to placate the gods. Perfumed oils and tree saps, such as myrrh and balsam, could also burn like incense. A temple to Athena at Elis, near Olympia, was said to have had saffron mixed into its wall plaster, and thus the temple’s interior was still fragrant 500 years later. In addition to fragrance, some perfumes also had medicinal properties, such as the celebrated “Balm of Gilead,” a balsam that ostensibly remedied a multitude of ailments and even functioned as an abortifacient. -
The Chemistry of Smellable Molecules → Volatility?
The chemistry of smellable molecules volatility? The chemical categories to which most odoriferous substances belong are : 1. Terpenes (= isoprenoides): e.g. Menthol, lemonene, thymol 2. Phenoles e.g. Coumarin, vanillin, heliotropin 3. Sulfuric compounds: e.g. Allyl isothiocyanate = volatile mustard oil 4. Amines e.g. Methylamine (dead fish) 5. Aldehydes e.g. Acetaldehyde (ripe fruits) benzaldehyde (bitter almond) 6. Esters & Lactones (cyclic esters) e.g. Allyl amyl glycolate (pineapple) 1. We smell only short molecules, large ones are no longer volatile and hence not odorous. 2. If molecule is very short, short is also its endurance, it will be a top note like e.g. dimethyl sulfide CSC – the transient smell of truffles 3. If a molecules carry a large net charges they will stick to each other and form hydrogen bonds. This prevents volatility. 4. Most olfactory molecules are made of C, H, O, N, S Perfumes – art, witchcraft or science? Perfumes are mixtures of raw materials: fragrant essential oils and other odorants, musk, fixatives, chemicals + solvents to give the human body, food, detergent, soap, juice, books etc pleasant smells. Why perfumes? Extracts from plants do not really smell like the real flowers but like a weak fake which might resemble but never match nature & original. The perfume maker therefore combines various raw materials to get something that resembles real flowers , or may even create some desirable fantasy smell The first perfume that used pure chemicals was in 1881Fougere Royal or Royal Fern by Parquet: it used lots of coumarin. Coumarin was used before but it was extracted from woodruff, vanilla leaf, & Tonka beans ($ 450/ kg), but not the pure, cheap chemical ($ 10/kg).