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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions the Fougere & Lavender’S Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions The Fougere & Lavender’s Glen O. Brechbill Fragrance Books Inc. www.perfumerbook.com New Jersey - USA 2011 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill “To my late father and beloved mother without them non of this work would have been possible” II ARRANTING FINE PERFUME COMPOSITIONS - THE FOUGERE LAVENDER’S © This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Please note the enclosed book is based on Fragrance Ingredients by House ©. Designed by Glen O. Brechbill Library of Congress Brechbill, Glen O. Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Fougere Lavender’s / Glen O. Brechbill P. cm. 626 pgs. 1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals. 4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title. Certificate Registry # TXu1 - 364 - 187 Copyright © 2006 by Glen O. Brechbill All Rights Reserved PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First Edition Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - THE FOUGÈRE & LAVENDER’S About the Book The fougère & lavender's is another favorite fragrance family. Originally this concept was intended for Women. However due to the strength of lavender a major component of this family it ended up as a masculine fragrance concept. One of the earlier fougère fragrances was Fougère Royale by Houbigant. This old fragrance house created one in the 18th century. Like many fragrance families a single fragrance gave birth to a wide range of fragrance types. Until fifteen years ago there was no regulatory body governing the use of essential oils in today's fragrances. This changed with the ( IFRA ) organization founded and funded by Givaudan, IFF, Symrise, Firmenich and Takasago. Like many industries these five control approximately eighty percent of the market. Today sadly one can not incorporate many of the key aromatic materials into a fougère, lavender scent because of skin irritation problems experienced by a monority percentage of the population. This Gestapo type group ruthlessly hunts and hounds out any dissidents who don't agree with their draconian amendments. One can not use coumarin, oakmoss, patchouli, lavender and many natural citrus materials. The goal of the big five is to of course control the industry by eliminating competition in this case natural ingredients in favor of syn- thetics based on petroleum. My opinion has been and always will be the peanut analogy. If one experiences a problem with a product don't use it. My niece has a peanut allergy, and she will never know the joy and pleas- ure that nuts can bring. Are peanuts banned because of folk’s food reaction? Of course not. The fragrance industry for whatever reason and the artistic creative craft are slowly being ruined by five fra- grance houses because of greed. Again, if you are a perfumer employed by this industry speaking out will get you fired and blacklisted for life. This is what happened to me many years ago. An unscrupulous former employer needed my first book titled A Reference Book on Fragrance Ingredients to save a lazy family mem- ber work. I was promoted to a Jr. Perfumer's position in a coy attempt to gain a copy of my earlier then unfin- ished notes. Not knowing then how this industry worked I soon found my self blacklisted. Getting even artistically I decided would take careful thought, and a lot of creative work. Crafting each book rested in part of learning desktop publishing, graphic arts including font design. One might call my inter- est in fragrance an obsession. I would tend to agree with this assessment. Once one learns the fragrance art or language the only way to let it out is by creative exercise. As an artist I find enjoyment each night by creating a single fragrance on paper. Again, each fragrance is based on assembling a theme with certain type of aro- matic materials. Perfumer's specialize creating fragrances for a single fragrance family or brand. They learn the art by watching their mentor. This is called an apprenticeship. One is unable to work in this industry with- out serving in an offical apprenticeship. There are self-taught artists like myself, but not many. 3 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill Each of my compositional books is a unique presentation into the creative art of an individual fragrance family. Why hasn't someone else done this before one asks? When an individual is selected into this unique profession you have to swear an oath to keep the fragrance art and creative thought process a secret. This is part of the reason why there are so few books on the subject of fragrances available particularly the composi- tion. Today no perfumer would be permitted to display formulas in any correct proportions. Even though fra- grance houses have hundred's of thousands of formulas in their possession they are paranoid of any one outside the hands of a few actually learning the art. In order to understand the art one must know the materials inti- mately, and how they blend together in various fragrance blends in correct percentages. Considering those under thirty today in age on the average read a single book for pleasure in a year I doubt in the near future whether any of today's artists will actually create one. It takes a great deal of work to come up with an idea, and then turn it into a book. Learning the high skill of desktop publishing took a lot of cre- ative effort and energy. My former employer who cheated me out of a lucrative and well paid career knows today that they made a major blunder letting me go many years ago. My compensation for a career that didn't happen are my books. Each book will have my picture in it. Although it is from long ago, it is my hope that my work will live on, and help future artists in his and her pursuit of knowledge. It is my firm belief that I saved a lot of information that is slowly disappearing from the world wide web. The Google search engine is a fine one. Its problem however, is not being able to sort through the massive data and display it in a correct form. In other words it can't differentiate between relevance information and the quality of that information versus irrelevance. It will rank a single article up front, and leave a web site that has over ten thousand pages three to five pages after it. A single news article will be kept in prime location dele- gating important information to the rear. As many know Google is scooping up every orphan book and publi- cation out there on the www and in libraries. Due to the copyright limbo nature of this material who actually owns it is up for grabs, and will be later sorted out by the Court. I set all of my books at 50 % view to make them useless beyond myself including removing the printing function. Obviously material that I displayed in this book could never be published. The purpose was to showcase how each fragrance family came to be. In many cases a single fragrance started a family that can have tens of thousands of off spring. Each fragrance is unique in its construction. Again, at the same time many are simi- lar, and in reality many smell alike because they are often very similar in construction. Lacking essential oils the synthetics lack diffusion. This is the reason why many last only several hours after applied. Fine fragrances are getting cheaper and cheaper. A household type product of twenty years ago contained more essential oils then due today's synthetic blends. One well-known perfumer employs less then thirty-fra- grance materials in his fine fragrance construction. I classify this type of fragrance of a house hold nature. Everyone is seeking to make more money with fewer materials. This in turn produces cheaper fragrances and is part of the problem why the fine art is slowly dying. Do my fragrances that are in this collection work you next want to know? My answer to that of course is who knows. I do realize formulation books that you see today are for the most part misleading. Any one of my creations can be endlessly changed, and adapted with experimenting. Taking into the account the cost for many of the materials I doubt whether any listed in this book could be made. However, that in a nutshell is the 4 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - THE FOUGÈRE & LAVENDER’S fine art of fragrance. It is my opinion that the composition itself should be an integral part of advertising, and marketing of a fine fragrance. However, due to the paranoia in the fragrance industry governing a trade secret that is the composition, which in turn creates a fragrance I doubt whether this will ever happen. In order to understand a formula one must know at the very least several thousand aromatic materials. It is my opinion in the not too distant future of thirty to fifty years of time the fine art of fragrance will have completely disappeared. High-speed computers plus automatic compounding machines will replace it.
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