The Fragrance Behind the Flavour

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

The Fragrance Behind the Flavour The Fragrance Behind the Flavor Marie Wright VP & CHIEF GLOBAL FLAVORIST November 12, 2019 History 4 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. The Beginning of Time Essential oils and spices were used to flavor food and create perfumes thousands of years ago. The first perfumes were used in religious ceremonies by the Egyptians in the form of incense and resins, such as Frankincense. Rich elites adorned themselves in perfume as a status symbol. Perfumes and flavors covered the unpleasant and unsanitary aromas of the day! 5 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Eau de B.C. Arabs, Persians, Greeks and Romans “commercialized” perfume spreading it through the Old world. The first perfume factory discovered in Cyprus, 2000 BC, was 43,000SQ FT! During the Dark Ages, there wasn’t much use for perfume but in the 16th century, the court of Louis XV was known as the Perfume Court and the use of Perfumes exploded! 6 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. The F&F Connection The first Flavorists & Perfumers were pharmacists. The explosion of perfume in Europe happened around the same time that the earliest cocktail, Punch, made its appearance in Europe from India. British sailors drank it on the ships! Punch consisted of spirits, sugar, spice, water, and citrus. The citrus help prevent scurvy! 7 Eau de Cologne Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Eau de Cologne dates to a 4711 Original Eau de Cologne similar era and contained was developed by an Italian alcohol, water, citrus essential Pharmacist, Johan Maria oils (bergamot, orange, Farina, and still sells today! lemon, grapefruit, orange flower, petitgrain, jasmine, thyme or rosemary) The original Roger & Gallet was Cologne and punch developed based on purchasing a have essentially the catalogue of colognes developed by same ingredients! Jean Marie Farina 8 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Modern F&F F & F industry advanced dramatically in the 19th century with organic chemistry leading to the discovery of synthetic musks, vanillin, nerol, raspberry ketone & other aroma chemicals New molecule discovery escalated especially in Perfumery with the discovery of novel, Nobel prize winning, multi-billion- dollar chemicals, such as white musks. With the advent of GC/MS the quality of oils improved and an understanding of the chemical composition of flavor The exclusive rights to Hedione (strangely floral, used in strawberry flavors) was purchased by Edmond Roudnitska & led to the development of the iconic eau sauvage! 9 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. 2000 B.C. & Beyond Back to Nature! We have turned full circle as the consumer becomes concerned with synthetic flavors & perfumes craving natural, organic and pantry-style solutions Lighter colognes and niche brands are booming (Jo Malone, Honoré des Prés) Clean & Clear labeled products & brands explode in the Food & Beverage Industry (La Croix, Kind, Honest Tea) fueled by a new ingredient base dervied from biotech and other high tech flavor technologies. Structure of Flavors & Fragrances 11 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Head: The perfume’s Citrus-orange: Bergamot, prelude creating the Grapefruit, Lemon, Mandarin, Yuzu first impression Fresh/aromatic: Lavender, Lemongrass. Anise, Thyme Floral: Jasmine, Rose, Lilac, Heart: The bouquet unfolds Orange Flower once the head evaporates, Green: Grass, Leaf rounded and pleasant Fruity: Lychee, Peach, Raspberry The Architecture Spices: Clove, Cinnamon, Nutmeg of a Perfume Woody: Cedar, Patchouli, Sandalwood Base: Creates the Balsamic: Peru balsam, Vanilla, lasting impression Heliotrope of a perfume 12 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Head: The flavor’s Floral: Methyl jasmonate, prelude creating the jasmine, lavender first impression Fresh, Sharp: acetaldehyde Fruity rum: ethyl propionate Sulfury, Catty: p-Mentha-8-thiol-3-on Heart: Character Raspberry: Ionones, Raspberry Ketone recognition producing Strawberry: γ-Decalactone, Methyl a recognizable taste cinnamate, furaneol, ethyl butyrate The Architecture Spices: Clove, Cinnamon, Nutmeg of a Flavor Woody: Cedar, Patchouli, Base: Creates the Sandalwood, damascenone lasting impression Balsamic: Peru balsam, Vanilla, of the taste Heliotrope Trends 14 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Perfume Inspired Cocktails Perfumes are serving as inspiration for mixologists like Arnd Hussein to create aromatic and unique experiences. At The Ritz-Carlton, Berlin, every drink on the menu is inspired by a perfume, such as Guerlain’s Shalimar and Jo Malone’s Pomegranate Noir. Photographed by Thorsten Klapsch 15 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Oud Flamboyant Tasso! Hotel Café Royal’s Green Bar collaborated with Parfums Givenchy to launch cocktails that celebrate the fashion house’s fragrances. Oud Flamboyant captures the complex nature of this exotic ingredient along with Japanese whisky blended with mandarin, coconut, Manuka honey & cinnamon. Peppery, amber woody & earthy, Oud captivates! Rotundone FEMA 4867 – spicy, peppery thespiritsbusiness.com 16 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. #PowerofPink# Florals 2019 color of the year – Living Coral 2019 flavors of the year – all things pink! 2019 flavors blooming with luscious flavors of rose & elderflower! 2019 wine of the year – #roséallday! Gin lovers of Pink flavors – pink grapefruit, rhubarb! Inside the Ingredient 18 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Davana Oil Artemisia pallens (Compositae) “This charming exotic ingredient is thought of as a chameleon note Olfactive Family: Floral smelling differently on Origin: India – oil is extracted from the grass – FEMA 2359 each person’s skin. Rich Olfactive Description: Damson, Berry, Woody, Fruity, Tropical aroma of dried fruit and wood with a sweetness Use in Fragrances: Estée Lauder Knowing, Jo Malone Honeysuckle & Davana that hits in the middle. Use in Flavors: Apple, Plum, Raspberry, Blackberry, Blueberry Used in Oriental and Chypre type fragrances. Composition Today Davana has Davanone Fruity, Berry, Damson 50% become in vogue!” Bicyclogermacrene Woody, Cedar 15% Ethyl cinnamate Fruity, Guava 0.7% 19 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Vetyver Oil Vetiveria zizanioides (Gramineae) “This beautiful root extract blends well with Olfactive Family: Woody, Earthy citrus oils in many men‘s fragrances, but also with Origin: La Réunion, Indonesia, Haiti, China – 21 CFR sweet balsamic notes Olfactive Description: Woody, Earthy, Smoky, Citrus such as Vanilla. Its harmonious balance Use in Fragrances: Vetiver (Guerlain, 1959), Encre Noire between earthy and (Lalique, 2006), Vetiver Extraordinaire (Frederic Malle, 2002) Use in Flavors: Citrus, Wine, Vanilla, Bourbon, Whisky, woody facets gives an Coffee, Vegetable elegant twist to the base Composition of a fragrance” vetiverol Woody,Vetiver 45% Alpha vetivone Woody,Vetiver 10% Beta vetivone Woody,Vetiver, Balsamic 10% 20 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Buchu Leaf Oil Barosma betulina,Rutaceae Olfactive Family: Sulfury “This distinguished, Origin: South Africa – FEMA 2169 intriguing and evocative Olfactive Description: Catty, Minty, Herbaceous ingredient with a strong blackcurrant note, that is somewhat like Use in Fragrances: Cool Buchu Molton Brown for Men cat urine, yet combined Use in Flavors: Blackcurrant, Peach, Passionfruit, Grapefruit, Mango with mint and with an underlying warmth.” Composition Diosphenol Minty, Peppermint 20% Menthone Minty, Peppermint 15% Isomenthone Minty, Peppermint, Pennyroyal 25% Mentha-8-thiol-3-one Sulfury, Catty 0.5% 21 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Boronia Absolute Boronia megastigma (Rutaceae) “This sophisticated Olfactive Family: Floral and somewhat exotic Origin: Tasmania, Brown Boronia – FEMA 2167 ingredient has an Olfactive Description: Floral, Violet intoxicating floral sensation combined Use in Fragrances: Boronia Grandiflora, Ralph by Ralph Lauren with a deep woody Use in Flavors: Raspberry, Blackberry, Blueberry, Peach, undertone. Used in Lemon, & Orange modern fragrances.” Composition Beta ionone Floral, Violet, Cedar 13% Methyl jasmonate Floral, Jasmin 1.3% 22 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Mandarin Petitgrain Oil Citrus reticulata (Rutaeae) “This ingredient with Olfactive Family: Floral its foxy, fruity, citrus Origin: Italy & Egypt – Extract of the twigs and leaves, character boosts the 21 CFR freshness and head notes Olfactive Description: Floral, Green, Fresh, Citrus Bergamot, of Citrus and other fresh Bell Pepper, Pea Colognes. Also used in fougere , chypres, neroli Use in Fragrances: Aqua Cologne Mandarin, Jo Malone – bases. It’s a key Lime Basil & Mandarin, Flora by Gucci ingredient in landmarks Use in Flavors: Grape, Strawberry, Mandarin, Blueberry such as 4711.” Composition Methyl n- methyl anthranilate Fruity, Grape 53% Gamma terpinene Citrus, Mandarin 36% Thank You.
Recommended publications
  • Download ATELIER, Our Brand Collection
    ATELIER _ our Brand Portfolio Acqua dell’Elba is the Essence of the Sea. Its uniqueness lies in the creation of artisan fragrances inspired by the sea in one of the most beautiful island of the Mediterranean Sea. Each product is created by expert Tuscan craftsmen using natural raw materials of the highest quality. Acqua dell’Elba is a family-run artisan fragrance house from Tuscany, started 18 years ago in Marciana Marina. It has a network of 28 branded retail outlets: 19 on Elba Island and 9 further stores located in some of Italy’s most beautiful destinations (Florence, Rome, Siena, Lucca, Como, Venice and Palermo). It has also developed a network of over 580 independent perfumeries across Italy that stock the products. Argan History Imagine walking in a semi-desert place, where dry winds blow and the earth breaks due to the lack of water. This is where Argan plants grow. With wide and rounded crowns, dark green and leathery leaves, gnar- led trunks, these incre- dible trees survive the difficult conditions of the Souss plain, giving life to a precious fru- it, whose oil has sur- prising properties. Even today, Argan berries are harvested by the expert hands of Berber women, who extract oil in a traditional way, through a very ancient process. Pure Argan oil is a rare and precious ingredient, a beauty ritual handed down for centuries for the care and rejuvena- tion of skin and hair. Argan Beneficial Properties Extremely rich in vitamin A, vitamin E, Omega-6 and anti- oxidants, Argan oil has always been known for its nutritional and moisturizing properties.
    [Show full text]
  • The Seven Main Families According to the Classification Proposed by Commission Technique De La Société Française Des Parfumeurs
    Fragrances Classification Sweet, sharp, sparkling, fresh....perfums should be so many and their notes practically infinite.....Knowing the main ingredients who characterize them and discovering which fragrance family they belong to , could be interesting and enjoyable. That's why we have decided to put at disposal a description and a classification of the the fragrances in seven Main Families, each of them has "Sub" Fragrance Families according to the classification proposed by Commission Technique de la Société Française des Parfumeurs The seven Main Families according to the classification proposed by Commission Technique de la Société Française des Parfumeurs Citrus By "citrus", we mean the essential oils obtained by extracting the zest from fruits such as bergamot, lemon, orange, mandarin, etc., combined with orange flower products. In this group we find the main "Eau de Cologne" fragrances used by men and women. Floral The family consists of fragrances with a single flower as their main theme : jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, violet, tuberose, narcissus, etc. Fougère This imaginary name which does not claim to represent a fougère fragrance, consists of a blend generally made up of lavender, woody, oak moss, coumarin, and bergamot notes. Chypre This name comes from the fragrance of the same name brought out by Coty in 1917. The success of "Chypre", made it the leader of this family which contains fragrances based mainly on harmonies of oak moss, cistus, labdanum, patchouli, bergamot. Woody These are warm or opulent notes, such as sandalwood and patchouli, sometimes dry like cedar or vetiver, the top note is usually made up of lavender and citrus notes.
    [Show full text]
  • The Senses in Early Modern England, 1558–1660
    5 Seeing smell Holly Dugan In January 2013, the Institute for Art and Olfaction commissioned graphic artist Micah Hahn and his design studio AutumnSeventy to create a series of prints on perfumery to commemorate its opening in Los Angeles.1 The result was Molecules, Series 1, which depicts three of the most influential molecules that defined twentieth-century perfumery – aldehyde C12, Iso E Super®, and Galaxolide.2 Gilded and embossed, the prints emphasize the chemical structure of these molecules, even as it renders them as fine art. That the prints are also lightly scented with each aromachemical depicted on it emphasizes the broader, and one might say synaesthetic, take on the mission of the institute: to connect fineart with olfaction. Although it is a visual representation of molecules that define modern perfumery, Molecules, Series 1 thus joins a long art historical tradition of cross-modal representations of sensation, particularly smell. Can a molecule be considered fine art? And, if so, which representation of that molecule best captures its olfactory beauty and renders it ‘visible’? Consider, for example, Hahn’s Galaxolide (Figure 3). It playfully invokes a wide variety of sensory modes to capture the aesthetic of Galaxolide. The print highlights both its chemical formula – C18H26 O – and its structural formula. Both are linked to its cultural associations with perfumery and public health. Galaxolide is a second-generation polycyclic synthetic musk, discovered in the 1960s, meant to synthesize the natural scent of deer musk. Translated into the language of public health, it is a hydrophobic but lipophilic ‘toxin’: it won’t wash off in water and is easily stored in human fat.3 Rendered into the language of commercial perfumery, however, it smells ‘clean’, a ‘musky, flowery, woody odor’ with a ‘sweet, powdery nuance’.4 Both its scent and its structure made it ideal for use in laundry detergents and soaps.
    [Show full text]
  • Perfume and Pomanders : Scent and Scent Bottles Through the Ages Pdf, Epub, Ebook
    PERFUME AND POMANDERS : SCENT AND SCENT BOTTLES THROUGH THE AGES PDF, EPUB, EBOOK E. Launet | 212 pages | 24 Sep 1999 | Potterton Books Publishing | 9781870599016 | English | Thirsk, United Kingdom Perfume and Pomanders : Scent and Scent Bottles through the Ages PDF Book You are commenting using your WordPress. Eau de cologne containing rosemary, bergamot and bitter orange. Glass is a brittle solid compound composed of silica, sand, soda and lime. I just love perfume bottles but had no idea of the long history. This revolutionised the industry since mass production was possible. War: gunpowder, horses, wet earth, anxiety sweat, leather. This work called for a high degree of skill. Some have argued that the glass industry of Venice did not emerge as a result of the Mesopotamian, Phoenician and Roman influence, but developed independently. The technique of glass-blowing was invented in Syria in the first century BC. Examples of perfume bottles drawn principally from the Schwarzkopf collection in Steinhorst. During the Middle Ages, people became afraid of drinking water for fear of an epidemic. Ziolkowsky GmbH The topper is a simple, dark blue triangular shape. These were openwork metal balls that could be filled with various combinations of aromatics that varied according to recipe, availability, and budget. I have loved perfumes since I was a little girl and I have a pretty substantial collection. Lichtenberger, Marianne Due gocce di profumo Milano: Idealibri England, in particular, produced unique glass perfume bottle decorated with enamelling and often gilded. Date To visit an English town in the late fourteenth century is a bewildering and extreme sensory experience.
    [Show full text]
  • Boss Bottled HUGO BOSS Coty 1998 0,7 5 Woody Fruity
    P e r fu m e your world RANKING P e r fu m e your world UNISEX 66,1 million € WOMEN + 19,1% vs 2016 MEN 887,8 million € 574,7 million € + 5,2 % vs 2016 + 3,9% vs 2016 TOTA 1.53 milliard € in 2017 + 5.3% vs 2016 2 FINE P e r fu m e your world YEAR OF MARKET RANKING OLFACTIVE OLFACTIVE RANKING PERFUME BRAND GROUP LAUNCH SHARE (%) 2016 FAMILY SUB-FAMILY Coco 1 CHANEL Chanel 2001 4,2 1 Chypre Fruity Mademoiselle 2 Chanel N°5 CHANEL Chanel 1921 2,4 2 Floral Aldehydic YVES SAINT 3 Black Opium L’Oréal 2014 2,1 5 Floriental Ambery LAURENT La Vie est 4 LANCÔME L'Oréal 2012 2,1 4 Floriental Woody Belle 5 Lady Million PACO RABANNE Puig 2010 2,0 3 Floriental Edible 6 Alien MUGLER Clarins 2005 1,7 6 Floral Woody 7 J'adore CHRISTIAN DIOR LVMH 1999 1,6 7 Floral Fruity 8 Gabrielle CHANEL Chanel 2017 1,5 NEW Floral Green 9 Diamonds EMPORIO ARMANI L’Oréal 2007 1,4 9 Floriental Fruity 10 Olympéa PACO RABANNE Puig 2015 1,3 8 Floriental Green 11 Miss Dior CHRISTIAN DIOR LVMH 2005 1,3 25 Chypre Fruity 12 Si ARMANI L’Oréal 2013 1,2 14 Chypre Fruity 13 Daisy MARC JACOBS Coty 2007 1,2 13 Floral Fruity 14 Angel MUGLER Clarins 1992 1,1 11 Oriental Edible 15 Bamboo GUCCI Coty 2015 1,0 10 Floral Spicy 4 P e r fu m e your world YEAR OF MARKET RANKING OLFACTIVE OLFACTIVE RANKING PERFUME BRAND GROUP LAUNCH SHARE (%) 2016 FAMILY SUB-FAMILY 16 Flowerbomb VIKTOR & ROLF L’Oréal 2005 1,0 15 Floral Oriental 17 Coco CHANEL Chanel 1984 1,0 17 Floriental Spicy 18 Chance CHANEL Chanel 2002 0,9 18 Chypre Floral 19 Scandal JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Puig 2017 0,9 NEW Oriental Edible 20
    [Show full text]
  • University of Cincinnati
    UNIVERSITY OF CINCINNATI Date: August 13, 2006. I, Grettel Zamora-Estrada , hereby submit this work as a part of the requirements of the degree of: Master of Science (M.S.) . in: Pharmaceutical Sciences . It is entitled: Partitioning of Perfume Raw Materials in Conditioning Shampoos using Gel Network Technology________________________________________ ty . This work and its defense approved by: Chair: Gerald B. Kasting, Ph. D. _____________ R. Randall Wickett, Ph.D. Eric S. Johnson, Ph.D. Kevin M. Labitzke, A.S. _ . Partitioning of Perfume Raw Materials in Conditioning Shampoos using Gel Network Technology by Grettel Zamora-Estrada A dissertation proposal synopsis Submitted in partial fulfillment Of the requirements for the degree of M.S. Pharmaceutical Sciences University of Cincinnati College of Pharmacy Cincinnati, Ohio July 23, 2006 ii ABSTRACT Gel network technology in conditioning shampoo represents an advantage over traditional silicone 2-in-1 technology due to its main benefits: dry conditioning, wet feel and lower cost. The purpose of this study was to do a proof of principle investigation and to study the main factors that affected partitioning of PRMs into the gel network system shampoos and determine the effect that perfume incorporation had on the shampoo stability of the different formulations . Gel network premixes (literally a conditioner) were formulated then incorporated into a standard shampoo base. Changes in formulation of the gel network such as chain length of fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol ratios were done and its effect on stability and perfume migration studied. A technical accord with 25 PRMs with a very wide range of physical properties was used as a marker.
    [Show full text]
  • Oil Extraction and Perfume Formulation from Plants: a Review
    International Journal of Research and Review www.ijrrjournal.com E-ISSN: 2349-9788; P-ISSN: 2454-2237 Review Article Oil Extraction and Perfume Formulation from Plants: A Review S. J. Kulkarni Datta Meghe College of Engineering, Airoli, Navi Mumbai, Maharashtra, India. Received: 21/10/2016 Revised: 16/11/2016 Accepted: 16/11/2016 ABSTRACT Perfume industries are growing in demand as the living standards are improving day by day. There is increasing demand for perfumes. They mask the body odor. Various methods such as solvent extraction, hydro distillation and enfleurag can be used for oil extraction. Distillation based recovery processes such as steam and vacuum distillation are preferred for the extraction of essential oils from plant materials. Other methods include solvent extraction, expression or enfleurage. The current review summarizes research on various methods for oil extraction and perfume formation from various raw materials. Key words: Distillation, extraction, yield, essential oil, solvent. INTRODUCTION and animal substances are traditionally used Fragrance oil(s) are also known as for perfume formation. Essential oils, pure aroma oils, aromatic oils, and flavor oils. grain oil and water are three key ingredients They are synthetic aroma compounds or in relation to perfume making. Essential natural essential oils that are diluted with a oils, or volatile oils, are found in many carrier like propylene glycol, vegetable oil, different plants. Investigations are reported or mineral oil. Perfume is a mixture of on oil extraction by distillation for fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds, modification and optimization. [1,2] Various fixatives and solvents. It gives a pleasant analytical and physical aspects have been scent to the human body, animals, food, investigated by various investigators.
    [Show full text]
  • Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions the Fougere & Lavender’S
    Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions The Fougere & Lavender’s Glen O. Brechbill Fragrance Books Inc. www.perfumerbook.com New Jersey - USA 2011 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill “To my late father and beloved mother without them non of this work would have been possible” II ARRANTING FINE PERFUME COMPOSITIONS - THE FOUGERE LAVENDER’S © This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Please note the enclosed book is based on Fragrance Ingredients by House ©. Designed by Glen O. Brechbill Library of Congress Brechbill, Glen O. Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Fougere Lavender’s / Glen O. Brechbill P. cm. 626 pgs. 1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals. 4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title. Certificate Registry # TXu1 - 364 - 187 Copyright © 2006 by Glen O. Brechbill All Rights Reserved PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First Edition Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - THE FOUGÈRE & LAVENDER’S About the Book The fougère & lavender's is another favorite fragrance family. Originally this concept was intended for Women. However due to the strength of lavender a major component of this family it ended up as a masculine fragrance concept.
    [Show full text]
  • Perfumery in Ancient Greek and Roman Societies
    Perfumery in Ancient Greek and Roman Societies erfumery dates back at least 5,000 years, with origins Pin ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt, and Indus Valley culture. The techniques were further refined in the Bronze Age Mediterranean: Minoan records detail oil deliveries for perfumers while Mycenaean tablets also mention perfume manufacture. Later Greek and Roman sources are more specific about perfumes, though the terminology can be somewhat confusing, if not contradictory. Theophrastos (ca. 270–285 BCE; On Odors), Pliny the Elder (23–79 CE; Natural History), and Dioskourides (ca. 40–90 CE; On Medical Material) all covered the subject, in some capacity. Archaeology reveals further evidence, and both religious and funerary contexts can be rich in perfume bottles. The perfume workshop at Pyrgos on Cyprus, excavated in 2003, is among the oldest, dating to ca. 1850 BCE. —Text by Benton Kidd Curator of Ancient Art I. Uses All evidence indicates that perfumery was a thriving industry in antiquity, and one integral to many aspects of ancient culture. Purchases and donations of perfumes for religious sanctuaries were not uncommon, and literary references imply that temples were kept fragrant to placate the gods. Perfumed oils and tree saps, such as myrrh and balsam, could also burn like incense. A temple to Athena at Elis, near Olympia, was said to have had saffron mixed into its wall plaster, and thus the temple’s interior was still fragrant 500 years later. In addition to fragrance, some perfumes also had medicinal properties, such as the celebrated “Balm of Gilead,” a balsam that ostensibly remedied a multitude of ailments and even functioned as an abortifacient.
    [Show full text]
  • Mary Kay® Fragrances
    Don’t Forget The Finishing Touch! MARY KAY® FRAGRANCES ... HOW TO CHOOSE THEM! HOW TO WEAR THEM! HOW TO GIFT THEM! HOW TO LOVE THEM! Don’t Forget THE FINISHING TOUCH You love Mary Kay® skin care – a fan of all things TimeWise®. Your best friend loves Mary Kay® color. And neither of you go anywhere without your Mary Kay® Gel Semi-Shine Lipstick. It’s time to add THE FINISHING TOUCH – a Mary Kay® fragrance that has your name all over it. Are you a flirty floral? A mysterious oriental? A fun, citrusy kind of woman? And what about HIM? The man in your life. Is he adventurous? Sophisticated? Daring? I’d love to help you find his signature scents too. Whatever mood you’re in, whatever the occasion calls for, whatever you’re wearing, you have a wardrobe for everything – now it’s time to have a fragrance wardrobe that matches. A finishing touch that makes an impression that lingers. Next time you leave the house, no matter where you’re going, don’t forget the finishing touch! Your Mary Kay® fragrance collection is your signature – and I can’t wait to help you discover it! YOUR MARY KAY INDEPENDENT BEAUTY CONSULTANT 2 3 4 How to Choose THE PERFECT FRAGRANCE Are you a romantic? Do you prefer exotic and mysterious or cool and intriguing? Do you want fragrances that make a first impression or leave a lasting one? Yes, you can have them all. Here are some things to consider when choosing a fragrance – or fragrances – that become your finishing touches.
    [Show full text]
  • The Chemistry of Smellable Molecules → Volatility?
    The chemistry of smellable molecules volatility? The chemical categories to which most odoriferous substances belong are : 1. Terpenes (= isoprenoides): e.g. Menthol, lemonene, thymol 2. Phenoles e.g. Coumarin, vanillin, heliotropin 3. Sulfuric compounds: e.g. Allyl isothiocyanate = volatile mustard oil 4. Amines e.g. Methylamine (dead fish) 5. Aldehydes e.g. Acetaldehyde (ripe fruits) benzaldehyde (bitter almond) 6. Esters & Lactones (cyclic esters) e.g. Allyl amyl glycolate (pineapple) 1. We smell only short molecules, large ones are no longer volatile and hence not odorous. 2. If molecule is very short, short is also its endurance, it will be a top note like e.g. dimethyl sulfide CSC – the transient smell of truffles 3. If a molecules carry a large net charges they will stick to each other and form hydrogen bonds. This prevents volatility. 4. Most olfactory molecules are made of C, H, O, N, S Perfumes – art, witchcraft or science? Perfumes are mixtures of raw materials: fragrant essential oils and other odorants, musk, fixatives, chemicals + solvents to give the human body, food, detergent, soap, juice, books etc pleasant smells. Why perfumes? Extracts from plants do not really smell like the real flowers but like a weak fake which might resemble but never match nature & original. The perfume maker therefore combines various raw materials to get something that resembles real flowers , or may even create some desirable fantasy smell The first perfume that used pure chemicals was in 1881Fougere Royal or Royal Fern by Parquet: it used lots of coumarin. Coumarin was used before but it was extracted from woodruff, vanilla leaf, & Tonka beans ($ 450/ kg), but not the pure, cheap chemical ($ 10/kg).
    [Show full text]
  • 2015 Membership Advantages 2015 Membership Application Form Société Des Amis De L’Osmothèque - Individuals - - Individuals
    2015 Membership Advantages 2015 Membership Application Form Société des Amis de l’Osmothèque - Individuals - - Individuals - 2015 Subscription fees Name:............................................................................................................................... €60 (for the year) (Reduced Price: €35 ) Surname:.......................................................................................................................... Activity Advantage Company:.......................................................................................................................... SAO Lectures (4-5/years) Members : free admission Title:.......................................................................................................................... Address :.............................................................................................................. Cultural visits organized by the Priority acces to members SAO .......................................................................................................................................... Osmotheque Classical Members admission: Post code:............................City :................................................................................ €12/entrance Non members: €16/entrance Country:............................................................................................................................ Thematic seminars Members admission: Email :..............................................................................................................................
    [Show full text]