The Fragrance Behind the Flavour
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The Fragrance Behind the Flavor Marie Wright VP & CHIEF GLOBAL FLAVORIST November 12, 2019 History 4 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. The Beginning of Time Essential oils and spices were used to flavor food and create perfumes thousands of years ago. The first perfumes were used in religious ceremonies by the Egyptians in the form of incense and resins, such as Frankincense. Rich elites adorned themselves in perfume as a status symbol. Perfumes and flavors covered the unpleasant and unsanitary aromas of the day! 5 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Eau de B.C. Arabs, Persians, Greeks and Romans “commercialized” perfume spreading it through the Old world. The first perfume factory discovered in Cyprus, 2000 BC, was 43,000SQ FT! During the Dark Ages, there wasn’t much use for perfume but in the 16th century, the court of Louis XV was known as the Perfume Court and the use of Perfumes exploded! 6 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. The F&F Connection The first Flavorists & Perfumers were pharmacists. The explosion of perfume in Europe happened around the same time that the earliest cocktail, Punch, made its appearance in Europe from India. British sailors drank it on the ships! Punch consisted of spirits, sugar, spice, water, and citrus. The citrus help prevent scurvy! 7 Eau de Cologne Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Eau de Cologne dates to a 4711 Original Eau de Cologne similar era and contained was developed by an Italian alcohol, water, citrus essential Pharmacist, Johan Maria oils (bergamot, orange, Farina, and still sells today! lemon, grapefruit, orange flower, petitgrain, jasmine, thyme or rosemary) The original Roger & Gallet was Cologne and punch developed based on purchasing a have essentially the catalogue of colognes developed by same ingredients! Jean Marie Farina 8 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Modern F&F F & F industry advanced dramatically in the 19th century with organic chemistry leading to the discovery of synthetic musks, vanillin, nerol, raspberry ketone & other aroma chemicals New molecule discovery escalated especially in Perfumery with the discovery of novel, Nobel prize winning, multi-billion- dollar chemicals, such as white musks. With the advent of GC/MS the quality of oils improved and an understanding of the chemical composition of flavor The exclusive rights to Hedione (strangely floral, used in strawberry flavors) was purchased by Edmond Roudnitska & led to the development of the iconic eau sauvage! 9 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. 2000 B.C. & Beyond Back to Nature! We have turned full circle as the consumer becomes concerned with synthetic flavors & perfumes craving natural, organic and pantry-style solutions Lighter colognes and niche brands are booming (Jo Malone, Honoré des Prés) Clean & Clear labeled products & brands explode in the Food & Beverage Industry (La Croix, Kind, Honest Tea) fueled by a new ingredient base dervied from biotech and other high tech flavor technologies. Structure of Flavors & Fragrances 11 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Head: The perfume’s Citrus-orange: Bergamot, prelude creating the Grapefruit, Lemon, Mandarin, Yuzu first impression Fresh/aromatic: Lavender, Lemongrass. Anise, Thyme Floral: Jasmine, Rose, Lilac, Heart: The bouquet unfolds Orange Flower once the head evaporates, Green: Grass, Leaf rounded and pleasant Fruity: Lychee, Peach, Raspberry The Architecture Spices: Clove, Cinnamon, Nutmeg of a Perfume Woody: Cedar, Patchouli, Sandalwood Base: Creates the Balsamic: Peru balsam, Vanilla, lasting impression Heliotrope of a perfume 12 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Head: The flavor’s Floral: Methyl jasmonate, prelude creating the jasmine, lavender first impression Fresh, Sharp: acetaldehyde Fruity rum: ethyl propionate Sulfury, Catty: p-Mentha-8-thiol-3-on Heart: Character Raspberry: Ionones, Raspberry Ketone recognition producing Strawberry: γ-Decalactone, Methyl a recognizable taste cinnamate, furaneol, ethyl butyrate The Architecture Spices: Clove, Cinnamon, Nutmeg of a Flavor Woody: Cedar, Patchouli, Base: Creates the Sandalwood, damascenone lasting impression Balsamic: Peru balsam, Vanilla, of the taste Heliotrope Trends 14 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Perfume Inspired Cocktails Perfumes are serving as inspiration for mixologists like Arnd Hussein to create aromatic and unique experiences. At The Ritz-Carlton, Berlin, every drink on the menu is inspired by a perfume, such as Guerlain’s Shalimar and Jo Malone’s Pomegranate Noir. Photographed by Thorsten Klapsch 15 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Oud Flamboyant Tasso! Hotel Café Royal’s Green Bar collaborated with Parfums Givenchy to launch cocktails that celebrate the fashion house’s fragrances. Oud Flamboyant captures the complex nature of this exotic ingredient along with Japanese whisky blended with mandarin, coconut, Manuka honey & cinnamon. Peppery, amber woody & earthy, Oud captivates! Rotundone FEMA 4867 – spicy, peppery thespiritsbusiness.com 16 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. #PowerofPink# Florals 2019 color of the year – Living Coral 2019 flavors of the year – all things pink! 2019 flavors blooming with luscious flavors of rose & elderflower! 2019 wine of the year – #roséallday! Gin lovers of Pink flavors – pink grapefruit, rhubarb! Inside the Ingredient 18 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Davana Oil Artemisia pallens (Compositae) “This charming exotic ingredient is thought of as a chameleon note Olfactive Family: Floral smelling differently on Origin: India – oil is extracted from the grass – FEMA 2359 each person’s skin. Rich Olfactive Description: Damson, Berry, Woody, Fruity, Tropical aroma of dried fruit and wood with a sweetness Use in Fragrances: Estée Lauder Knowing, Jo Malone Honeysuckle & Davana that hits in the middle. Use in Flavors: Apple, Plum, Raspberry, Blackberry, Blueberry Used in Oriental and Chypre type fragrances. Composition Today Davana has Davanone Fruity, Berry, Damson 50% become in vogue!” Bicyclogermacrene Woody, Cedar 15% Ethyl cinnamate Fruity, Guava 0.7% 19 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Vetyver Oil Vetiveria zizanioides (Gramineae) “This beautiful root extract blends well with Olfactive Family: Woody, Earthy citrus oils in many men‘s fragrances, but also with Origin: La Réunion, Indonesia, Haiti, China – 21 CFR sweet balsamic notes Olfactive Description: Woody, Earthy, Smoky, Citrus such as Vanilla. Its harmonious balance Use in Fragrances: Vetiver (Guerlain, 1959), Encre Noire between earthy and (Lalique, 2006), Vetiver Extraordinaire (Frederic Malle, 2002) Use in Flavors: Citrus, Wine, Vanilla, Bourbon, Whisky, woody facets gives an Coffee, Vegetable elegant twist to the base Composition of a fragrance” vetiverol Woody,Vetiver 45% Alpha vetivone Woody,Vetiver 10% Beta vetivone Woody,Vetiver, Balsamic 10% 20 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Buchu Leaf Oil Barosma betulina,Rutaceae Olfactive Family: Sulfury “This distinguished, Origin: South Africa – FEMA 2169 intriguing and evocative Olfactive Description: Catty, Minty, Herbaceous ingredient with a strong blackcurrant note, that is somewhat like Use in Fragrances: Cool Buchu Molton Brown for Men cat urine, yet combined Use in Flavors: Blackcurrant, Peach, Passionfruit, Grapefruit, Mango with mint and with an underlying warmth.” Composition Diosphenol Minty, Peppermint 20% Menthone Minty, Peppermint 15% Isomenthone Minty, Peppermint, Pennyroyal 25% Mentha-8-thiol-3-one Sulfury, Catty 0.5% 21 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Boronia Absolute Boronia megastigma (Rutaceae) “This sophisticated Olfactive Family: Floral and somewhat exotic Origin: Tasmania, Brown Boronia – FEMA 2167 ingredient has an Olfactive Description: Floral, Violet intoxicating floral sensation combined Use in Fragrances: Boronia Grandiflora, Ralph by Ralph Lauren with a deep woody Use in Flavors: Raspberry, Blackberry, Blueberry, Peach, undertone. Used in Lemon, & Orange modern fragrances.” Composition Beta ionone Floral, Violet, Cedar 13% Methyl jasmonate Floral, Jasmin 1.3% 22 Confidential and proprietary Confidential and proprietary business information of ADM. Mandarin Petitgrain Oil Citrus reticulata (Rutaeae) “This ingredient with Olfactive Family: Floral its foxy, fruity, citrus Origin: Italy & Egypt – Extract of the twigs and leaves, character boosts the 21 CFR freshness and head notes Olfactive Description: Floral, Green, Fresh, Citrus Bergamot, of Citrus and other fresh Bell Pepper, Pea Colognes. Also used in fougere , chypres, neroli Use in Fragrances: Aqua Cologne Mandarin, Jo Malone – bases. It’s a key Lime Basil & Mandarin, Flora by Gucci ingredient in landmarks Use in Flavors: Grape, Strawberry, Mandarin, Blueberry such as 4711.” Composition Methyl n- methyl anthranilate Fruity, Grape 53% Gamma terpinene Citrus, Mandarin 36% Thank You.