Collection Osmothèque Juin 2015
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Let the Holidays Begin! Big,Bold Jewels Your Own Shopping the World
D D NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2013 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER Big, Bold Your Own Shopping ...Let the Jewels Private Caribbean the World Holidays Begin! p236 p66 p148 PERSONALBEST the business of scent A Whiff of Something Real As mass-produced perfumes become the new normal, the origin of a fragrance is more important than ever. TINA GAUDOIN reports from Grasse, the ancient home of perfume and the jasmine fields of Chanel No 5. oseph Mul drives his battered pickup into the dusty, rutted field of Jasminum gran- diflorum shrubs. It is 9 A.M. on a warm, slightly overcast September morning in Pégomas in southern France, about four miles from Grasse, the ancient home of Jperfume. In front of Mul’s truck, which is making easy work of the tough ter- rain, a small army of colorfully dressed pickers, most hailing from Eastern Europe, fans out, backs bent in pursuit of the elusive jasmine bloom that flowers over- night and must be harvested from the three-foot-high bushes before noon. By lunchtime, the petals will have been weighed by Mul, the numbers noted in the ledger (bonuses are paid by the kilo), and the pickers, who have been working since before dawn, will retire for a meal and a nap. Not so for Mul, who will oversee the beginnings of the lengthy distillation technique of turning the blooms into jasmine absolute, the essential oil and vital in- gredient in the world’s most famous and best- selling fragrance: Chanel No 5. All told, it’s a labor-intensive process. One picker takes roughly an hour to harvest one pound of jasmine; 772 pounds are required to make two pounds of concrete—the solution ARCHIVE ! WICKHAM/TRUNK ! MICHAEL !"! LTD ! NAST ! The post–World War II era marked the beginning of mass fragrance, when women wore perfume for more than just special occasions. -
New Launches News
the scent post A MONTHLY UPDATE ON THE LATEST FRAGRANCE NEWS new launches top new videos poison girl roller pearl | DIOR les merveilleuses ladurée arizona coco mademoiselle intense english fields LADURÉE PROENZA SCHOULER CHANEL JO MALONE NEW FRAGRANCE NEW FRAGRANCE RANGE EXTENSION LIMITED EDITION news arizona | PROENZA SCHOULER elevator music hermè s creates a sense of miller harris’ concept meta cacti the fragrance created by ritual around its scents store heightens the by chiaozza byredo and off-white senses in canary wharf x régime des fleurs x | brrch floral coco mademoiselle edp intense CHANEL FRAGRANCE NEWS hermessence Hermès creates a sense of ritual around its scents Fashion house Hermès is expanding its perfume offering with a new range consisting of eaux de toilette and essences de parfum scents. Part of its Hermessence collection, the oil-based essences de parfum mark a departure for the brand, which has until now only created the lighter eaux de toilette. Intended to be worn either as a base for other fragrances or on their own, the fragrances add an additional layer to the ritual of putting on perfume, an idea explored in the Multisensory Beauty microtrend. The musk-based scent profiles, Cardamusc and Musc Pallida, draw on cardamom and iris oils, both of which are known for their wellness properties, including use as a decongestant. In line with Psychoactive Scents, as the wellness and beauty sectors become increasingly entwined, brands are exploring new ways to combine the properties of essential oils with high-end scents. FRAGRANCE NEWS miller harris’ concept store heightens the senses A very vibrant force has landed in Cabot Place, Canary Wharf. -
Brief Report on the Implementation of the FCTC's Core Articles In
Brief report on the implementation of the FCTC’s core articles in Cambodia up to March 2012 I. BACKGROUND Cambodia ratified the Framework Convention on Tobacco Control (FCTC) on 15 November 2005. The draft Law on Tobacco Control was developed in 2003, even before the country ratified the FCTC, by the Ministry of Health (MoH), and reviewed several times by the Economic, Social, Cultural Council (ECOSOCC), and the Council of Jurists (CoJ) of the Council of Ministers (CoM). The last modified version was completed in late 2010, and has waited for re-submission to the CoM by the MoH. The National Center for Health Promotion (NCHP) is the technical department responsible for tobacco control under the MoH where tobacco control policies are required to move up from this basic level. However, NCHP has used several excuses to delay the re-submission of the draft law. The director of the NCHP quoted by Phnom Penh Post that the CoM needs data on mortality rate related to tobacco use in Cambodia to endorse the draft law. That is why he needs sometime to conduct a research to response to the need. When WHO released the report on mortality attributed to tobacco in mid 2010, then he lobbied the Minister of Health to wait for him to conduct a research, this time, on economic cost of tobacco before re-submission the draft law. It is known that it takes at least three to five years to complete such a research if funding exists. WHO and NGOs are very active in pushing forward the draft law. -
Paris, March 20, 2017 MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN JOINS the LVMH GROUP Motivated by a Shared Vision of French Perfume Making and Th
Paris, March 20, 2017 MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN JOINS THE LVMH GROUP Motivated by a shared vision of French perfume making and the creativity that inspires it, LVMH and Maison Francis Kurkdjian have announced their association in order to jointly pursue the long-term development of the fragrance House. Under the agreement LVMH will acquire a majority share in Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Marc Chaya and Francis Kurkdjian will continue in their current roles as Chief Executive Officer and Creative Director, respectively, and will remain shareholders of the company. Maison Francis Kurkdjian has since its founding in 2009 created contemporary fragrances characterized by excellence, savoir-faire and audacity. Consistent with the vision of the two founders, Maison Francis Kurkdjian is emblematic of a new generation of exclusive and atypical fragrance Houses. The House’s fragrance collection is conceived as a “fragrance wardrobe”. Committed to uncompromising quality in the unique tradition of French fine perfumery, the House at the same time proposes a contemporary vision of the art of creating and wearing perfume. Maison Francis Kurkdjian is currently present in 40 countries and in 2016 became a member of the Comité Colbert, the association that promotes French luxury and art de vivre around the world. Internationally-renowned perfumer Francis Kurkdjian has designed visionary fragrances that meld exacting quality and contemporary flair for leading names in beauty and fashion. He has in particular collaborated with several LVMH Houses, including Acqua di Parma, Christian Dior, Guerlain and, most recently, Kenzo. For more than 20 years he has explored new creative territories in fragrances through his own bespoke fragrance atelier, collaborations with artists and pop-up installations. -
Perfumes Míticos
PERFUMES MÍTICOS A la venta desde octubre de 2012 «Su perfume olía a perfume, igual que los demás perfumes. Pero en ella parecía un olor natural.» (Simone de Beauvoir Los mandarines, 1954) PERFUMES MÍTICOS Marie Bénédicte Gauthier Un exquisito libro con la historia de los perfumes más emblemáticos y un sinfín de sugerencias para elegir una fragancia. Lleno de anécdotas sobre cómo y para quién se creó cada perfume, cómo distinguirlos o quién es o ha sido su imagen. ¿A qué olía Marilín? ¿Qué perfume era el preferido de Robert Reford o de Grace Kelly? ¿cuál fue el primer perfume para hombre y mujer?... Hay perfumes que cuentan historias y que evocan sentimientos y deseos. Muchos de ellos mantienen un vínculo muy afectivo, transmitido de generación en generación, que convocan en ese sentido el recuerdo de las personas queridas. Los perfumes míticos son un condensado de sensibilidad: algunos fueron creados hace más de un siglo pero siguen encerrando una enorme belleza en su diminuto frasco. Hay perfumes que forman parte de la historia del cine, otros “visten” habitualmente a grandes estrellas, los hay que forman parte de los museos de arte, y hay algunos que son famosos principalmente por un envase que está más allá de una “botellita” de diseño más o menos atractivo. Este precioso libro objeto, de cuidado diseño, narra la historia de los perfumes más míticos, además de desvelarnos todos los detalles de sus fórmulas y un sinfín de sugerencias útiles para escoger la esencia que mejor reafirme nuestra propia personalidad. Son setenta perfumes, cada uno con su ficha, en la que se detallan las notas de salida, corazón y fondo del perfume con un lenguaje ameno, además de algunas indicaciones para saber para quién está hecho el perfume y cómo llevarlo. -
Male Fragrances That Evoke a Feral Growl, Full-Blown Tempests Or The
A WHIFF OF DANGER Male fragrances that evoke a feral growl, full-blown tempests or the swaggering brio of ancient Rome are a bullseye for those who embrace their masculinity, says Lucia van der Post. Photograph by Omer Knaz he first scent I ever truly fell in love with was Schiaparelli’s Shocking, made by the great Jean Carles, and I came across it because my father wore it. I still remember the shock of pleasure when that first light floral note hit me, then the sense of surprise as the herbs, sandalwood and honey began to emerge, and finally it became sexier and more earthy as the oakmoss and what I now know Tto be civet took over. I remember, too, old-fashioned child that I was, that I thought it strange that my markedly heterosexual father wore a scent that seemed so voluptuous and so clearly aimed at women. Today, nobody would think anything of it. Speak to connoisseurs of perfume and as one they reject the notion of male and female scents. As Roja Dove, éminence grise of the perfume world, puts it: “For years floral notes were associated with feminine perfumes and – since men were considered strutting, predatory things – woody, mossy, earthy materials were linked with masculine ones, but the boundaries nowadays have become much more blurred. A rose, after all, has neither a penis nor a vagina – a rose on a man is a masculine rose, a rose on a woman is a feminine rose.” Violet, a note that one would have thought was largely feminine, was much beloved by Italian dandies in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and it was an overdose of violet that made Geoffrey Beene’s Grey Flannel (£45 for 60ml EDT, to which much-respected perfume scholar Luca Turin awards five stars, calling it “a masterpiece”) such a success when it was launched in Clockwise from far left: 1975. -
Download ATELIER, Our Brand Collection
ATELIER _ our Brand Portfolio Acqua dell’Elba is the Essence of the Sea. Its uniqueness lies in the creation of artisan fragrances inspired by the sea in one of the most beautiful island of the Mediterranean Sea. Each product is created by expert Tuscan craftsmen using natural raw materials of the highest quality. Acqua dell’Elba is a family-run artisan fragrance house from Tuscany, started 18 years ago in Marciana Marina. It has a network of 28 branded retail outlets: 19 on Elba Island and 9 further stores located in some of Italy’s most beautiful destinations (Florence, Rome, Siena, Lucca, Como, Venice and Palermo). It has also developed a network of over 580 independent perfumeries across Italy that stock the products. Argan History Imagine walking in a semi-desert place, where dry winds blow and the earth breaks due to the lack of water. This is where Argan plants grow. With wide and rounded crowns, dark green and leathery leaves, gnar- led trunks, these incre- dible trees survive the difficult conditions of the Souss plain, giving life to a precious fru- it, whose oil has sur- prising properties. Even today, Argan berries are harvested by the expert hands of Berber women, who extract oil in a traditional way, through a very ancient process. Pure Argan oil is a rare and precious ingredient, a beauty ritual handed down for centuries for the care and rejuvena- tion of skin and hair. Argan Beneficial Properties Extremely rich in vitamin A, vitamin E, Omega-6 and anti- oxidants, Argan oil has always been known for its nutritional and moisturizing properties. -
Fragrance & Flavour
Magical & Evocative They can bring to life long – forgotten memories Influence perception of the present Conjure images of the future Fragrance & Flavour • Natural Essential Oils Oleoresins Isolates Resinoids Absolutes Concretes Resins Gums Extracts • Synthetic Aroma Chemicals Synthetic Essential Oil Specialties Oleoresin Attars Essential Oils Extracts Extraction & Processing Resinoids Resins & Gums Isolates Concrete & Absolute Essential Oil Odour/Aroma/Essence Natural/ Plant Oil e.g. Mustard Oil Volatile e.g. Kerosene Oil Concrete Solvent Extraction of Flowers Oil+Resin+Gums+Waxes+Colour Intermediate Product Extracted out of concrete Product of Direct use More strong & long lasting than Essential oil Oil +Resin Solvent Extraction of Spices Resins & Gums Natural Exudates from Plant Resin is Insoluble in water & soluble in organic solvents Gums are soluble in water Resinoids Solvent Extraction of Resins & Gums Very long lasting Good for agarbatti & Dhoopbatti ATTARS Attars may be defined as the distillates obtained by the hydro distillation of flowers and/or herbs & spices over Sandalwood oil or other materials like DOP, DEP, Paraffin etc. Isolates Components Isolated from Natural Extract Simple Physical Means Solvent Extraction Oleoresin Concrete Absolute Resinoid Are they Natural utilized as Aroma such? Extract NO Processing Blending What a good Fragrance is ? It should Smell without any Smell Flavour = Fragrance + Taste It is a harmonious combination comprising of natural and/or synthetic ingredients, with stability, diffusiveness and ability to get fixed in required cosmetic and other products. A combination of natural and /or synthetic ingredients with capability to get fixed in required product to give mingled but unitary experience which includes taste, smell and sensory perception, particularly mouth feel. -
Faculdade De Tecnologia E Ciências Sociais Aplicadas – Fatecs Curso: Publicidade E Propaganda
FACULDADE DE TECNOLOGIA E CIÊNCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS – FATECS CURSO: PUBLICIDADE E PROPAGANDA NÁDIA PEREIRA DOS SANTOS 21262430 QUE CHEIRO É ESSE QUE VEJO E OUÇO? PROFESSORA ORIENTADORA: URSULA BETINA DIESEL Brasília/DF, novembro de 2015 2 NÁDIA PEREIRA DOS SANTOS QUE CHEIRO É ESSE QUE VEJO E OUÇO? Trabalho de Curso (TC) apresentado como um dos requisitos para a conclusão do curso Publicidade e Propaganda do UniCEUB – Centro Universitário de Brasília. Orientadora: MSc. Ursula Betina Diesel Brasília 2015 3 Nádia Pereira dos Santos QUE CHEIRO É ESSE QUE VEJO E OUÇO? Trabalho de Curso (TC) apresentado como um dos requisitos para a conclusão do curso Publicidade e Propaganda do UniCEUB – Centro Universitário de Brasília. Orientadora: MSc. Ursula Betina Diesel Brasília, 25 de novembro de 2015. Banca Examinadora _________________________________ Prof.ª MSc. Ursula Betina Diesel Orientadora _________________________________ Prof.ª: PhD. Carolina Assunção e Alves Examinadora _________________________________ Prof.ª: Dr.ª Cláudia Maria Busato Examinadora _________________________________ Prof.ª MSc. Délcia Silva Francischetti Examinadora 4 AGRADECIMENTOS Primeiramente, a Deus, aos meus avós Abílio (in memoriam), Maria, Leocádia e Paulo por me transmitirem conhecimentos e reflexões de outro tempo e me ensinarem o que nenhum livro pode ensinar. Aos meus pais, que sempre me incentivaram a questionar e pesquisar. Ao meu pai, Augusto, que sempre me ensinou a conquistar as coisas sozinha e minha mãe, Nágila, que esteve ao meu lado durante todo o processo, e claro, seu amor por perfumes que fez desta jornada algo interessante e curioso. À minha tia Rosi, que me ensinou a perseverar, se hoje tenho amor ao estudo devo agradecer principalmente a você, que provou que podemos mudar nossa história com força de vontade e estudo. -
The Seven Main Families According to the Classification Proposed by Commission Technique De La Société Française Des Parfumeurs
Fragrances Classification Sweet, sharp, sparkling, fresh....perfums should be so many and their notes practically infinite.....Knowing the main ingredients who characterize them and discovering which fragrance family they belong to , could be interesting and enjoyable. That's why we have decided to put at disposal a description and a classification of the the fragrances in seven Main Families, each of them has "Sub" Fragrance Families according to the classification proposed by Commission Technique de la Société Française des Parfumeurs The seven Main Families according to the classification proposed by Commission Technique de la Société Française des Parfumeurs Citrus By "citrus", we mean the essential oils obtained by extracting the zest from fruits such as bergamot, lemon, orange, mandarin, etc., combined with orange flower products. In this group we find the main "Eau de Cologne" fragrances used by men and women. Floral The family consists of fragrances with a single flower as their main theme : jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, violet, tuberose, narcissus, etc. Fougère This imaginary name which does not claim to represent a fougère fragrance, consists of a blend generally made up of lavender, woody, oak moss, coumarin, and bergamot notes. Chypre This name comes from the fragrance of the same name brought out by Coty in 1917. The success of "Chypre", made it the leader of this family which contains fragrances based mainly on harmonies of oak moss, cistus, labdanum, patchouli, bergamot. Woody These are warm or opulent notes, such as sandalwood and patchouli, sometimes dry like cedar or vetiver, the top note is usually made up of lavender and citrus notes. -
The House of Poppy Larkin
The House of Poppy Larkin By Robert Horne © Robert Horne May 2012 6 Table of Stories Story title Page No The Five People That Matter 8 The Start of Something Big 12 Father 19 Possum 25 Pearl Earrings 28 The Street 41 Snake 45 That Whole Adelaide Thing 49 The Jump 54 Love The Hurt 58 Billy Larkin 67 Flinders Fields 72 Cassie Fails English 81 Memorandum 84 Billy 88 Stick Man Dead 91 Fireman 96 The Glass Harpoon 104 Return of The Stick Man 113 Billy Steps In 118 Epilogue 126 7 The House of Poppy Larkin By Robert Horne © Robert Horne May 2012 6 Table of Stories Story title Page No The Five People That Matter 8 The Start of Something Big 12 Father 19 Possum 25 Pearl Earrings 28 The Street 41 Snake 45 That Whole Adelaide Thing 49 The Jump 54 Love The Hurt 58 Billy Larkin 67 Flinders Fields 72 Cassie Fails English 81 Memorandum 84 Billy 88 Stick Man Dead 91 Fireman 96 The Glass Harpoon 104 Return of The Stick Man 113 Billy Steps In 118 Epilogue 126 7 The Five People That Matter There are only five people in this town that matter. Who matter, I should say. Who are important in any way. That is my considered opinion and I have certainly had some time to consider the matter. And they all come into this pub. Or at least, they have come in to this pub in living memory. I know, because I‟ve seen them. All of them. In here. -
Schwanebeck, Wieland
This is a pre-copyedited, author-produced version of an article accepted for publication in Adaptation following peer review. The version of re- cord: Schwanebeck, Wieland. “Mr Ripley’s Renaissance: Notes on an Adaptable Character.” Adaptation, vol.6, no. 3, Oxford Academic, Dec. 2013, pp. 355–64 is available online at:https://academic.oup.com/adaptation/article/6/3/355/2583851, doi:10.1093/adaptation/apt017. Wieland Schwanebeck Mr. Ripley’s Renaissance: Notes on an Adaptable Character “I’m a creation. I’m a gifted improviser. I lack your conscience and, when I was young, that troubled me. It no longer does. I don't worry about being caught because I don't think anyone is watching. […] The one thing I know is that we’re constantly being born.” - John Malkovich in Ripley’s Game (2003) This speech, given by Tom Ripley (John Malkovich) midway through Liliana Cavani’s adaptation of Patricia Highsmith’s novel, Ripley’s Game (2003), puts forward the idea that fictional heroes enjoy the privilege of living multiple lives, and nobody’s fate illustrates this better than Tom Ripley’s own. Ripley’s renaissance on screen during the past decade not only saw him reenter the public consciousness, but also presented the viewers with a unique case of a serialized (anti-)hero: Unlike James Bond, with whose cinematic career Ripley shares some interesting similarities,1 Ripley’s on-screen embodiments hardly show any stable parameters, presenting the audience with a new version of masculinity each time an actor took on the character. No screenwriter, director or actor has ever worked on the character more than once, and none of the Ripley films have been located during the same period, in the same setting, or genre, though all of them resort to Highsmith’s constellation of an American impostor who is taken with European culture, a kind of “sociopath Jay Gatsby” (Oates 47) who never ages and who usually manages to get away with his horrendous crimes.