Fragonard Magazine N°9 - 2021 a Year of PUBLICATION DIRECTOR and CHIEF EDITOR New Charlotte Urbain Assisted By, Beginnings Joséphine Pichard Et Ilona Dubois !

Home , Eau de toilette, Joy (perfume), La Blouse Roumaine, Nature Belle (Staab), Nina Ricci (brand), Perfumer

MAGAZINE

2021 9 ENGLISH

EDITORIAL STAFF directed by, 2021, Table of Contents Agnès Costa Fragonard magazine n°9 - 2021 a year of PUBLICATION DIRECTOR AND CHIEF EDITOR new Charlotte Urbain assisted by, beginnings Joséphine Pichard et Ilona Dubois !

ART DIRECTOR Claudie Dubost assisted by, Maria Zak BREATHE SHARE P04 Passion flower P82 Audrey’s little house in Picardy AUTHORS Louise Andrier P10 News P92 Passion on the plate recipes Jean Huèges P14 Laura Daniel, a 100%-connected by Jacques Chibois Joséphine Pichard new talent! P96 Jean Flores & Théâtre de Grasse P16 Les Fleurs du Parfumeur Charlotte Urbain 2020 will remain etched in our minds as the in which we all take more care of our planet, CELEBRATE CONTRIBUTORS year that upturned our lives. Yet, even though our behavior and our fellow men and women. MEET P98 Ten years of acquisitions at the Céline Principiano, Carole Blumenfeld we’ve all suffered from the pandemic, it has And especially, let’s pledge to turn those words P22 Musée Jean-Honoré Fragonard leading the way Eva Lorenzini taught us how to adapt and behave differently. into actions! P106 A-Z of a Centenary P24 Gérard-Noel Delansay, Clément Trouche As many of you know, Maison Fragonard is a Although uncertainty remains as to the Homage to Jean-François Costa a familly affair small, 100% family-owned French house. We reopening of social venues, and we continue P114 Provence lifestyle PHOTOGRAPHERS enjoy a very close relationship with our teams to feel the way in terms of what tomorrow will in the age of Fragonard ESCAPE Olivier Capp and customers alike, so we deeply appreciate bring, we are over the moon to bring you these P118 The art of wearing perfume P26 Viva România! Eva Lorenzini your loyalty. Thanks to you, we have been able pages filled with simple pleasures, exciting P33 The Romanian Blouse: P120 Daniela Andrier Lucie Sassiat to continue moving forward with our goals, projects and new discoveries. More than ever story of an icon & Fleur d’Oranger while striving to always do better. And as ever, before, this year’s magazine is 100 % Frago as P36 Adventures from your armchair P122 Leather & perfume ILLUSTRATORS we remain: we like to say, imagined and curated by our P126 A nose in our business Alice Guiraud - Faithful to our creative values, by imagining people, who all lent a helping hand as writers, GET INSPIRED P130 A perfume for every zodiac sign! Audrey Maillard different and original products you’ll only find models or passionate creators. As always, it P38 Muses & museums Andréa Ménard at Fragonard. embodies the very unique spirit of Fragonard. P68 Pretty as a picture! DISCOVER - Faithful to our stringent quality criteria, by You are holding a year in our life in your P74 Romanian colors P134 Impressions of Camargue ENGLISH using only the finest raw materials to offer hands and we are thrilled to share it with you! TRANSLATION products that satisfy your expectations and Thank you again for your loyalty and we Laura Valentine, desires. look forward to welcoming you to our home Claudio Cambon - Faithful to our environmental promise to very soon, (A centenarian's ABCs) reduce our carbon footprint more every year.

The establishments and addresses mentioned in this issue, other than those of Fragonard, are provided for information purposes only and are - Faithful to our suppliers, some of whom have not intended as advertising. Listed prices are subject to change. Reproduction in whole or part of the articles, photographs and illustrations worked hand-in-hand with us for generations. published in this issue is strictly prohibited. Printed in France by Imprimerie Trulli in Vence in 130,000 copies. Editorial contact: Joséphine Pichard PHOTO-ENGRAVING Warmest wishes, +33 (0)1 47 42 93 40. This free magazine is available to Fragonard customers and is not for sale. Please do not litter. Megapom Let us hope that 2021 will usher in a new era, Anne, Françoise & Agnès Costa EVENT BREATHE

fleurde la passion A NEW WORLD LEGEND

This intricately-woven flower unveils an open-hearted corolla of petals, two-toned threads tinted with purple and triumphant golden stamens. In 2021, Fragonard is celebrating the Passion Flower, a generous tropical plant originating from the New World. Let's take a look back at its history and traditional uses.

Text Charlotte Urbain / Drawing Audrey Maillard / Photography Olivier Capp

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ORIGINS Granadilla, Maracuja, Passiflora… The Passion Flower has many exotic names, but its European designation, now more common, has a biblical origin. It was discovered by missionaries in the 15th century, who saw it as a symbol of the Passion of Christ. Its inner threads are reminiscent of the crown of thorns worn by Jesus, while its three stamens evoke the Holy Trinity.

A MIRACLE OIL HUNDREDS OF VARIETIES Passion fruit seeds are used to produce an oil There are over 500 varieties of Passiflora with with impressive benefits for the skin. Its deeply an abundance of different flowers and properties. moisturizing properties are used to fight signs It would be impossible to mention them all, of ageing and redness. so here are just three: Passiflora incarnata is reputed for its anti-anxiety and sedative The flowers can also be transformed into action. It was widely used by the native tribes of a nourishing oil that maintains firm skin America, who handed down their know-how to us. by preserving elasticity and collagen. The most gourmet species is, of course, It is rich in Omega-6 fatty acids too, Passiflora edulis, bearing wonderfully tangy perfect for plumping up mature skins. and incomparably tasty passion fruit. Last but not least, the best known variety in France is Passiflora caerulea, an ornamental plant offering a genuine feast for the eyes.

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Fleur de la Passion by Fragonard

SUNSHINE FLOWER HEAD NOTES: grapefruit, mango

LEGEND OF THE AMAZON PEOPLE LOVE FLOWER HEART NOTES: passion fruit, neroli, raspberry According to a legend told by an Amazon tribe, a young Indian called Mara, whose beauty was heralded by all, was betrothed to the chief’s son, Mamangaba. Consumed by unquenched passion, the village witch GODDESS FLOWER BASE NOTES: doctor killed Mara on the eve of her wedding. Cashmere wood, white musk After the beautiful Indian was buried, her grave began to blossom with magnificent flowers... But the flowers bore no fruit, as Mara died a virgin. Every day, Mamangaba visited the grave, kissing the flowers passionately. When they saw this spectacle, the merciful gods decided to turn the despairing lover into a bee, hence lending him the power to pollinate the flowers. And that is how the passion fruit first appeared, THE PERFUMER’S INSPIRATIONS as soft as Mara’s lips and as intense as their love. As for Mamangaba, he continues to buzz With her palette and watercolor brushes in hand, artist and perfumer Céline Ellena let from flower to flower... her imagination run free to create our “Fleur de la Passion” Eau de Toilette.

PORTRAIT OF A PERFUMED WORK musky and gently woody. Translucent white, “I captured colors and scents on my blank page pure and naive, round like a warm disc of light to create a richly-colorful composition. Color by and infinitely comfortable. Next, I sprinkled color, I chose silky materials to paint the portrait on shades of raspberry and little mango flames, of the “Fleur de la Passion” fragrance and embody and laid down a few creamy, neroli-scented petals. the many facets of this whirling, beguiling flower, Lastly, with the stroke of a feather, I traced a wake of exuding an exhilarating scent. celadon green vines bound with garnet ribbons My brushes are made of feathers, to ensure each to tie everything together! The resulting floral stroke is slender and delicate. They offer a multitude bouquet exhales a colorful and infinitely tender, of possibilities. With a light tap, I can spray a shower airy and happy fragrance.” of tiny drops of color. And with the slightest pastel breath, the brush takes to the air above the canvas. I worked like a painter, starting with the background: Céline Ellena, perfumer & creator of “Fleur de la Passion” for Fragonard.

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New NEWS charity bags Fragonard has created a set of two printed cotton bags for 2021. Symbolically adorned with a traditional Indian prayer tie and lucky charm portraying Indian gods, the bags promise to bring good fortune while lending a helping hand FRAGONARD, to the San Joe Puram orphanage CARING TOGETHER in India, offering shelter and education for young girls of all ages. Solidarity has been a core value of Set of two 2021 Charity Bags Maison Fragonard for many years in 100% printed cotton, now. This year, we're celebrating the 25 × 22 cm (large format) and 8th anniversary of our support for an 23 × 16 cm (small format), €25 Indian orphanage and the 2nd anniversary of our collaboration with the French NGO EliseCare with the latest edition of our Charity Bag.As soon as the health crisis hit, we felt it was essential to fight the virus alongside our fellow French men and women and bring solace to those in need, so we rapidly set up support actions via public institutions and, more simply, responded to various private initiatives. Carte blanche to Étienne Boyer

A professional architect, Étienne Boyer started out alongside an architect specializing in objects and has never looked back since. From objects to drawings and hidden words... Étienne went on to become a freelance Popular aid Nursing homes AP-HP foundation Hospitals designer, collaborating with such illustrious Last year, the Secours Since 2018, Fragonard has Ten percent of online A symbolic but names as Yves Saint Laurent, Nina Ricci, Populaire, the French been providing financial sales in April and June much-appreciated Puiforcat, Christofle, Bernardaud and Tiffany. Popular Aid Fund, whose assistance to the French were donated to carers at gesture, carers at Necker, But his very-personal style truly shines activity quadrupled during NGO EliseCare through the AP-HP (Parisian Public La Pitié-Salpêtrière and through in his work for Maison Fragonard. the health crisis, was the sale of perfumed gift Hospitals) Foundation. La Croix Saint-Simon in Étienne loves to hide words and phrases obliged to help sets. EliseCare is a pro Paris, Lacassagne in Nice, among his swirling brushstrokes. Just like out small local associations at handling emergencies Mulhouse and Cannes, Apollinaire’s calligrammes, his work is deprived of their usual and at the very start and the Centre Hospitalier a mix of poetry and drawing. His relationship senior volunteers during of the crisis, they set up du Beaujolais Vert in with Fragonard has been blossoming lockdown. Whole families CareForMed: a panel Cours-la-Ville, all received for over fifteen years and is a genuine in need also had to of expert volunteers ready our hand creams to offer meeting of spontaneous minds, where be housed urgently. and willing to help out them a little bit of fragrant communication is unhindered and exchanges Fragonard decided to public nursing homes and self-care! 1,200 products spark both inspiration and real-life products. give them a helping French families affected in all were distributed No limits and no boundaries for hand by donating 13,000 by COVID-19. Fragonard to the nursing staff. the new “Face à Face” capsule collection: soaps, shower gels and decided to support this Étienne Boyer had carte blanche. shampoos. initiative by donating 3,100 shower gels, soaps In addition to his creations for others, and body creams to Étienne Boyer also self-publishes delightful struggling homes. art books and cards available from his website #CareForMed www.etienneboyer.com

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Thierry Colson & Fragonard Collaboration

After training at the Studio Berçot in Paris, Thierry Colson was a consultant for many years for major brands including Chloé, Hermès, Lacoste and Jil Sander. In 2005, Fragonard for Men Thierry designed his first collection under his own name. His romantic, delicate and poetic style won immediate Our boutique located in Rue d’Antibes recognition and his nods to 18th-century in Cannes now welcomes an exciting costumes caught the eye of Agnès and new space entirely dedicated Françoise Costa. Admirers and loyal to masculine elegance, featuring customers from the outset, they saw eaux de toilette, decorative objects, the creative potential of a collaboration clothing and accessories. between the two houses around A great opportunity to succumb the 18th-century textile collections to one of the many shirts in our new of Fragonard’s Provencal Costume Fragonard Homme men’s collection, & Jewelry Museum. The result of this made with the softest, freshest cotton perfect partnership will be presented and printed with exclusive designs in summer 2021 and feature embroidered in an ode to travel! pieces and minutely-crafted garments 100% cotton shirt, €70 in an ultra-limited edition available exclusively at the Fragonard boutiques Fragonard Cannes Antibes in Provence. 103, rue d’Antibes Cannes Tel. +33(0)4 93 38 30 00

Made in Raphia

The island of Madagascar proudly upholds the unique art of raffia weaving! Raffia is a type of palm tree: several varieties grow on the island and their leaves – among the longest in the plant world – provide a fiber used by various industries. Deeply committed to craft industries throughout the globe, Fragonard supports handmade goods that support fair trade. Handed Fabrics with down through the generations, raffia a twist weaving allows Malagasy women to maintain their financial independence without leaving their villages and children. Fragonard loves colorful and lively prints! The bags produced for Maison Fragonard We create a range of fun and trendy are entirely hand-woven using natural accessories using scrap and extra materials, fibers, according to an including scrunchies, ties and notebooks. ancient crochet technique. Our tie was a big success last year, so we have decided to produce it in nine “Raphia” bag, 100 % raffia different colors and prints in 2021 and 100% cotton printed pouch, – perfect for adorning your wrist, hair or purse… 30 × 29 cm, €75 Just take your pick!

100% printed silk scrunchie, €12 100% printed cotton tie, 124 × 7 cm, €10 (available in 9 colors) Notebook with printed cotton cover, €12 (available in 9 prints)

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CHRISTMAS 2021 GUEST ARTIST After studying philosophy and government declared the first social sciences, Laura has been lockdown. More and more dreams in charge of organizing exhibitions began to pour in: strangers wrote for a contemporary art museum to her describing fragments of for the last seven years. their nights, which she translated She draws her inspiration from into drawings if she was inspired, Laura Daniel, her daily contact with the many or put aside carefully. Ironically, and varied artists she meets. Laura has no memories of her If she had to name but two, they own dreams – but her drawings a 100% would be David Hockney and more than make up for it. Gerhard Richter, her absolute heroes. From the new generation, Reserved, yet bubbly and -connected she also loves Lynette Yiadom passionate, Laura Daniel is over Boakye, François Malingrey, the moon about the Fragonard Nathanaëlle Herbelin and Florian Christmas 2021 collaboration new talent! Krewer. More recently, she has project. It’s a big first for her, Text Charlotte Urbain / Photography Oliver Capp developed a passion for Inuit with a collection based on her art and its refreshingly-different latest series called the magic herb approach and references versus garden: imaginary plants with western painters. The renowned weird and wonderful properties She loves drawing and finds Itee Pootoogook is one of her drawn with colors as vibrant and it relaxing and fulfilling... With Fragonard, favorites and she particularly sparkling as their creator... Laura Daniel is testing out a new world: appreciates his very-moving portrayals of everyday life created that of creative collaboration. using colored pencils. She will be signing the next Collection Magique by Fragonard, a Christmas 2021 Laura Daniel taught herself special edition inspired by her to draw as a child, spurred on "magic herb garden" and the scents by a father trained in visual and decorative arts. Her favorite tools of Fragonard. were pencils, watercolors and gouache. Two years ago, she discovered the graphics tablet and appreciates its flexibility and ease. In 2019, she dared herself to take part in Inktober. A hype young artist, Laura Daniel some welcome laughter to an attitude, a frown or an Created by Jake Parker in 2009, was unveiled by social media. our daily lives. In parallel, expression, always with an this competition, held every year In fact, with her typical nose for Laura Daniel launched her amused gaze. She uses drawing throughout October, requires talent, Agnès Costa discovered own Instagram account to nourish her observation skills artists to post a different work her via Instagram. @les.caracteres featuring her artwork. and sharpen her perception on a given theme on social media is a humoristic account created and concentration. every day – a new challenge in 2017, in which the two cousins Although it’s not her profession, Her tool is a sketchbook she’s that propelled her into the virtual Laura and Lison Daniel portray Laura has always loved drawing. never without: it gives her world. One day, two close friends funny, fictional characters typical It’s her little bubble of pleasure, the impression of slowing down told her about their dreams. of our times, through short and relaxation and personal time – which passes by too She interpreted them on paper, gently satirical sketches. fulfillment. She enjoys sketching fast for her taste – and allows then posted the drawings The account went viral during the people she meets, capturing her to write the story of on the Internet at the time of the first lockdown and brought a way of walking, her life as it passes by... the pandemic, when the French

14 15 BREATHE BREATHE BELLE DE GRASSE Firmly anchored in beautiful Provence since its débuts, Maison Fragonard “Mimosa has a very special place has been creating perfumed odes to the region's lifestyle since 1926. Featuring three in my heart and my perfumer’s palette. eaux de toilette, two diffusers and three soap & soap holder sets, As soon as I catch its scent, this new collection formulated with fine natural essences is a tribute to I’m instantly transported back to Tanneron valley where I loved to stroll Provence and a promise of more exciting creations to come. when I was a perfumery student. I love smelling mimosa, but I also love its color and shape, and I always want to reach out and touch it! Gentle yet powerful, powdery and sensual yet airy and radiant, mimosa is a flower of contrasts and an ode Les Fleurs to liberty. When I created the perfume, I thought of all the sensations du I felt when I first discovered this unique flower. I imagined a perfume that was both light Parfumeur and bewitching, full of contrasts.” SHYAMALA MAISONDIEU, PERFUMER THE NEW PERFUMED COLLECTION PAYING TRIBUTE TO PROVENCE

Text Charlotte Urbain - Illustration Audrey Maillard - Photography Olivier Capp

BELLE DE GRASSE Eau de toilette 100 ml, €36 Soap 150 g, €9 Soap & soap solder set, €20

Head notes violet flowers, Italian bergamot

Heart notes mimosa absolute, orange blossom absolute, lilac

Base notes heliotrope, intense musk 16 17 BREATHE BREATHE

BEAU DE PROVENCE

“My creative starting point was the desire to make a very-aromatic fragrance with a touch of green and milky fig, together with very citrusy Mediterranean notes evoking Provence and beyond France’s borders into Sicily in Italy. As far back as I can remember, I’ve always loved the smell of fig trees and the scent they exhale when you pluck their sun-drenched fruit. It’s a complex scent: green and floral, but also silky and milky. Produced by the sap of the tree, it has as many nuances as Proust’s Madeleine!”

KARINE DUBREUIL, PERFUMER RÊVE DE GRASSE

The Rêve de Grasse diffuser is sporting a brand new look and fragrance this year! Like a generous, freshly-picked bouquet, this perfume creation signed by Karine Dubreuil graces every interior with an explosion of flowers led by triumphant rose, with a sunny trio of geranium, peony and lily-of-the-valley in its wake. Born in Grasse and now a perfumer, BEAU DE PROVENCE Karine drew her inspiration Eau de toilette 100 ml, €36 for Rêve de Grasse from her Soap 150 g, €9 Soap & soap holder set, €20 grandmother’s garden, bedecked with magnificent red roses.

KARINE DUBREUIL, PERFUMER Head notes fig, bergamot, Italian grapefruit

Heart notes mint, basil, RÊVE DE GRASSE ylang-ylang Diffuser 250 ml + 10 sticks, €38

Base notes Atlas cedar, Indonesian patchouli, sandalwood, Javan vetiver 18 19 BREATHE BREATHE

BELLE RÊVE D'ARLES D'ARLES “The inspiration for this perfume Marrying notes of ginger, comes from Les Arlésiennes, cardamom, carrot seed and the beautiful women of Arles everlasting, Rêve d’Arles blossoms in days gone by. Embodying into notes of rose and jasmine the epitome of feminine elegance, on a powerful base of cedar they took infinite care of their and liquorice evoking the gentle appearance, pinning and layering sunshine of the South of France. fabrics and preening themselves Inspired by the “golden sun that for hours. Belle d’Arles is never fades”, this creation a tribute to their incarnation of by perfumer Carine Boin unveils the divine feminine. Orange floral and spicy notes as blossom – Fragonard’s iconic flower the summer heat reaches its peak... – is layered with oriental and amber notes, reminiscent of precious spices arriving at Beaucaire market from the Orient in bygone years.” RÊVE D’ARLES Diffuser 250 ml DANIELA ANDRIER, + 10 sticks, €38 PERFUMER PERFUMER: CARINE BOIN

BELLE D'ARLES Eau de toilette 100 ml, €36 Soap 150 g, 9 € Soap & soap holder set, €20

Head notes bergamot, neroli, peach

Heart notes orange blossom absolute

Base notes amber

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Born in Cannes, a student in Nice regulations for cosmetics requiring firms of its kind, Fragonard has and now working in Grasse, a review of all product files. Always maintained full autonomy over the CÉLINE Céline has never left her beloved upbeat, Céline didn't complain creation, production and sale of Côte d’Azur. During her and even welcomed the opportunity its perfumery products. A resolute biochemistry and pharmacology to work within a tight framework. action fan and passionate worker, PRINCIPIANO, degree, she specialized in "The legislation relates to what Céline loves this independent stand regulations – an area requiring can or can't be put on the market, and the infinite in-house flexibility LEADING THE WAY both thoroughness and reactivity. so it's product safety and, by and responsiveness it fosters. She joined Maison Fragonard extension, customer safety that's A perfume that's out of stock in Grasse in 2006 as part of in play. Products evolve throughout due to a sudden rush? No problem: her specialization. Perfume their lifespan and it's our duty Céline modifies her schedule, and cosmetics were new to her to stay up to date and be ready to calls the laboratory and gets at the time; prior to that, most modify our formulas at any time". production rolling. Her teams mean of her experience was with The love of a job well done... the world to her (she constantly pharmaceutical laboratories. talks about their human and She soon discovered, learned After eleven years with Fragonard, professional skills) and they know and adopted the codes and Céline now holds the reins of how to adapt to every situation realities of the profession. the Purchasing & Production – a strength she appreciates and a Contrary to pharmacy, where Department. And she's taking the huge advantage for the regulatory processes are long and promotion in her stride – after all, family-owned firm. Even if the segmented, perfumery offered she knows the firm's teams and stress is sometimes tangible, her the immediacy she craved. techniques inside out! As its name Céline remains deeply attached Vivacious and energetic, her implies, this key department takes to her way of working and loves it character is perfectly in tune with care of purchasing (raw materials, "when things stay on the move." Fragonard's feverish pace. Céline bottles, pumps, packaging etc., Solving problems, finding solutions appreciates seeing the fruit of her i.e. the many components of and moving forwards are the gifts labor. "I'm lucky enough to be able perfumery and cosmetic products) that drive her every day. Since to follow the products throughout and production (manufacturing she joined Fragonard in 2006, Good-humored and their lifetime, from the design stage and packaging workshops, logistics, she has accompanied the firm's always on the go, Céline onwards", she explains. A global transport, etc.), together with exponential growth and feels Principiano heads up vision she loves, from design to quality and regulatory controls. she's grown with it, learning more the Fragonard Purchasing creation and production. A genuine master of ceremonies, every day. The digitization of Céline relies on her teams to the production chain promises & Production Department. From 2006 to 2017, Céline ensure the Fragonard boutiques are to be one of the highlights of 2021. A genuine orchestra director exclusively took care of the legal supplied with the brand's for the firm's perfumery and and regulatory aspects of products many products right on time: "Family, tradition and innovation" cosmetic products, she tells made at the Fragonard factories. a challenging task requiring is Céline's motto for Fragonard, Perfumes, creams, shower gels seamless organization and... reflecting her personal values us all about her exciting and soaps... All require daily a cool head! Her department is to perfection. "Everyone knows and sometimes-hectic daily monitoring to ensure they comply "at the service of all the others", everyone here and we share life at the heart of Maison with current legislation. Their stipulates Céline – and she our personal and professional ingredients are carefully studied by appreciates her job's versatility. struggles alike". Team work is Fragonard's complex beehive. her department, which constantly essential to her and she loves Text Charlotte Urbain analyzes and verifies their quality Her greatest pleasure is being at to get things done with gusto, Photography Olivier Capp and especially their conformity the heart of the creative process always keeping the mood positive vis-à-vis health and legal standards and making sure everything is and dynamic. In fact it's her – a task that suddenly got a lot "in order", allowing production trademark: whatever happens, more complex in 2009, when to run smoothly under her Céline sports a smile that even the European Union set up new watchful eye. One of the only the health crisis couldn't erase!

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Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris Every morning, Gérard-Noël does The Fragonard family is an – a memory he continues to cherish the rounds of the factory, greeting intrinsic part of Gérard-Noël’s life today. After his studies all the team members from the and he embraces the firm’s values and two years spent with the Alpine production workshop to the sales wholeheartedly. When he says Battalion, Gérard-Noël kicked room with head cashiers Mickaël, “I owe everything to Fragonard”, off his career as a management Morgane, Cristina and Julie always at it’s easy to see he means it. Adopted GÉRARD-NOËL DELANSAY, controller with the French building his side. His job has evolved over the by the town of Grasse, it was here materials distributor Point P, then last twenty years and Gérard-Noël that he met his Italian wife Maria, A FAMILY AFFAIR Axa Courtage on Place Vendôme, looks back at his escapades at trade who did an internship at Fragonard but his true dream was joining fairs and the many and varied tasks after finishing her studies. Maison Fragonard. Thanks to a rare he has tackled over his career with Her talent, insatiable joie de vivre opportunity in 2000, he became nostalgia. Today, he regrets the time and professionalism charmed director of the Musée du Parfum he has to spend on red tape, but is Agnès and Françoise Costa, who Text Charlotte Urbain / Photography Olivier Capp Fragonard, 9 rue Scribe in Paris. thrilled to have been part of Maison decided to keep her on to head up His career with Fragonard Fragonard’s success story. And what the various boutiques. Since then, had finally begun. a track record he has clocked up the couple – happy at work and home alike – has had two gorgeous Tall, dark and slim, Gérard-Noël Delansay has directed When asked how he trained children together… A genuine the Fragonard historic factory in Grasse for the last fifteen years. with Fragonard, Gérard-Noël fairytale that Gérard-Noël loves to A long love affair intertwined with his own life story. immediately replies “the Cardelli relate today. Fragonard has carved School”. Jean-Pierre Cardelli is an his destiny and he is proud to be a important figure for all of us. I owe part of such a fabulous adventure. He directed the factory-laboratory To be continued. in Èze-Village for forty years, before everything to handing down his director’s seat – and especially his knowledge Fragonard and personal skills – to his daughter. He trained all of the His parents came from Normandy to remain discreet about the six firm’s directors. Jean-Pierre belongs and Savoie, and Gérard-Noël months he spent in Bosnia during to a generation who considered spent many years as a Parisian the Yugoslav war. work as the spice of life. A little before setting down his bags in paternal but always benevolent, since 2000, when he signed his first Grasse. He studied in Paris and Fragonard is first and foremost a Jean-Pierre knew how to convey employment contract: the birth of the spent the holidays with his maternal family affair. His mother, Colette, the essence of the house to future firm’s boutiques, development of new grandparents in Savoie, dividing was hired by Agnès Costa in the directors: a love of a job well done, museums and the arrival of online up his time between the two mid-1990s to work alongside her thoroughness and, especially, and export services. Nonetheless, regions throughout his youth. in Paris. Gérard-Noël discovered a warm and genuine smile for 2020 remains a sad memory etched He developed a passion for skiing the perfumery house when he was the staff. With Jean-Pierre, every forever on his mind, with the full and – and excelled at it! He even still a student. When he visited his visitor had the impression they unconditional closure of the historic considered making a career of mother at her Parisian office he was were a prince touring their factory during the first lockdown in it for a time. During his military immediately seduced by the world kingdom. He shared his talent March. The factory had only ever service, his talent for mountain of perfume, Provencal luxury and with all the directors: his daughter been shut once for the funeral of Mr. sports earned him a place in the firm’s dynamic atmosphere, Joanna Cardelli, of course, together Costa in February 2012, as all the staff the 13th Alpine Hunter Battalion and went on to experience them with Lionel Farnarier, director wanted to pay a last homage to their in Chambéry. And although first-hand during his student years, of the Fabrique des Fleurs in boss. The factory is now directed by he has great memories of with several part-time jobs at Grasse and Gérard-Noël. Today, the three daughters of Jean-François his two years in the army and the Musée du Parfum. In 1999, the three directors enjoy an Costa, and Gérard-Noël speaks of his continuing camaraderie with his he took part in setting up unbreakable bond and quasi- “lady bosses” with pride as formidable old Alpine friends, he prefers the first Fragonard boutique on brotherly complicity. driving forces “worth forty men”.

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Every year, the Fragonard artistic team draws its inspiration from a country outside France, where craftsmanship is alive and kicking and ancient know-how continues to be celebrated. This year, we took just a short hop from our Mediterranean shores to focus on one of our European neighbors, Romania. A far cry from the clichés and stereotypes, we discovered a country overflowing with enviable cultural and architectural heritage. With their fascinating blend of Latin, Slavic and Balkan influences, the Romanians offered us an incredibly warm and generous welcome and hard-to-resist hospitality, pampering us with smiles, kind words, plum alcohol and other national delicacies. An explosion of colors and flowers, Romanian craftsmanship is a sheer delight that continues to flourish today – a firework display of rugs decorated with huge flowers, woven aprons with wide, multicolored stripes, white blouses embroidered with flowers and magnificent ceramics. We were lucky VIVA enough to discover these many treats Text just before lockdown, when Andreea Eduarda Bastian, Tanasescu, Chairwoman of the Mihaela Grigorean, association La Blouse Roumaine (see p. 33), Rada Pavel, Charlotte Urbain introduced us to the artisans who have enriched our summer 2021 collection. ROMÂNIA!Photography Dorin Mihai, George Negrea, Forged by many different influences Gheorghe Petrila, (Byzantine, Balkan, Slavic, Hungarian, Zig Zag prin România Romanesque, etc.) and the various reigns that have carved the country’s history, Romanian craftsmanship is unique in its wealth and resistance to change. Now more than ever, it is vital to continue to preserve and hand it down, so that artisans can continue to make a living from their art. Fragonard is immensely proud to be able to play its part and introduce you to them today.

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GEZA & EMMA ISTVANFFY MARK TUDOSE Master ceramists, Vama, Romania Woodcarver, Sighișoara, Romania

ROOSTER

The rooster symbolizes hope and heralds the nspired by the work of his dawn of each MATERNITY hree words could aptly regions. Geza settles down in front grandfather and traditional new day. STORK sum up the work of Geza of his lathe and shows us how Romanian culture alike, The mother The stork is feeding her and Emma Istvanffy: he molds his creations. Then it's Mark Tudose from Sighișoara, a good omen baby wears tradition, collaboration and joy. Emma's turn to decorate them also nicknamed “the spoon man”, and symbol a crown of luck. Their workshop is located in with pretty, colorful patterns. All makes extremely beautiful wooden representing I According spoons. Mark has been an artisan the family unit the charming town of Vama, in the family take part too: even their to Romanian T over which northern Romania. Trained by eight-year-old granddaughter has for over twenty years, aided and popular belief, she reigns. his grandfather and passionate been learning to model and paint abetted by his wife Raluca. His if a stork nests for three years already. A joyful grandfather, a master cabinet on your roof, about his country's culture, Geza your home will creates stunning ceramics, hand- and soothing atmosphere reigns maker, bequeathed him his old be protected painted by his wife Emma. The in the family workshop and we wood chisels and gouges dating from fire, flood two artisans draw their inspiration instantly feel wonderfully at ease. back half a century, and he still and thieves. from natural flowers and leaves, For Geza and Emma, tradition is uses them to craft his wooden stories and is resolutely convinced or representations of traditional all about recognizing and loving objects. Thanks to a faultless that traditional crafts will survive OWL old decorative objects. The colors your own roots, and making the knowledge of each type of wood, thanks to the many stories that tie including its smell and color, he A symbol are obtained using several types of most of each passing moment. humanity to its past, traditions and of wisdom, clay, each with different properties Resembling little messengers, the carves unique pieces adorned with roots. Mark created four different the owl is a and hues: black from Tur, red two little human-like vases they a plethora of details. Mark loves models of spoons made from totem animal created for Fragonard promise to convey his love of his trade in with the gift from Bixad and white from Viile linden for Fragonard, all decorated of perceiving Apei, all originating from the to bring some of their serenity the works sculpted by his hands. with animals and bearing messages what humans Maramures and Transylvania and good humor to our interiors. He says his spoons are made up of inspired by Romanian folklore. cannot see.

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MARINEL GYÖRFI MARIA ZAPCA Ceramist, Saschiz, Romania Weaver, Săpânța, Romania

arinel Gyӧrfi was born and raised isted as UNESCO in Saschiz, a little Intangible Cultural village in Transylvania. Now a Heritage since 2016, the 25 year-old young man, he is the art of Romanian wall hangings Monly artisan still producing genuine is an age-old skill passed down Saschiz ceramics. In 2014, this Lby women from generation to extraordinary young talent won generation. Today, very few master a grant from the Camelia Botnar its complexity and aesthetic finesse Foundation. A year later, thanks to the full. Considered as one of to a generous donation from the Romania’s most talented weavers, same foundation and help from Maria Zapca learned the art of the town hall, he inaugurated traditional weaving from her his own ceramics center, where mother, who trained her when she he now practices his art in ideal was still a little girl. Born in the conditions. Dedicated to keeping village of Săpânța, Maria worked enchanting work, appreciated and old Romanian wall hangings this unique craft alive, he is her whole life to preserve this acclaimed by her community and for Fragonard, selected with her inspired by traditional Saschiz traditional know-how, teaching specialists alike, has been shown at expert eye. At her workshop, we motifs, some over two hundred using a cobalt-based pigment, farming communities that have children and youngsters alike numerous exhibitions around the were lucky enough to be able years old, drawing his inspiration among other closely-guarded shaped them. Through Saschiz through numerous events and world. Maria Zapca sadly passed to see her spinning wool, then from books and collections he manufacturing secrets. Marinel ceramics and their renown, its workshops. Passionate about her away in early 2020, just weeks dyeing it in various colors before shows us with pride. His creativity, works hand-in-hand with the members strive to uphold an work and proud of her culture, after she became a candidate for weaving it on traditional wooden combined with two centuries of ADEPT team, a foundation that ancient tradition and secure Maria dreamed that one day UNESCO “Tezaur Uman Vi” looms. She was a total master of heritage craftsmanship, lends aims to revive this beautiful but additional income and jobs for the Romanians would take their (Living Human Treasure). Her her art. Maria’s small personal his work an originality unique in poor area of Transylvania. Since region. The foundation has now traditional costumes out of their humanity, enthusiasm and fervent collection of ancient, beautifully- Romania. His ceramics require its creation in 2004, it has worked launched a donation campaign on boxes and wear them once more: desire to keep the cultural heritage embroidered Romanian rugs and highly-qualified mastery: each to support and preserve the highly- its website (fundatia-adept.org), in the she believed that ancient clothes of her country alive will continue textiles was her inspiration, as well piece is fired several times and the biodiverse cultural landscapes of aim of training more people in this kept by the elderly possess a to inspire younger generations. as a tribute to the know-how of unique Saschiz blue is achieved Transylvania and the small-scale time-honored craft. special energy. Her meticulous and Maria Zapca sourced traditional her ancestors.

WHAT TO VISIT WHERE TO STAY WHAT TO READ WHAT TO LISTEN TO WHAT TO WATCH Satu Mare Museum & Cultural Tourism La Casa Traditiilor: a pretty little guest house The Little Communist Who Never Smiled Songs from Afar, Lucian Ban Elevation, Sieranevada by Cristi Puiu, OUR Office (Mihaela Grigoran is an incredible run by Claudia, tastefully decorated by Lola Lafon, special guest Gavril Tarmure (vocals), 2014. 2 hrs 53 mins, ROMANIAN ethnologist and director). in traditional Romanian style. 2014, Actes Sud. Sounds Of The Unheard From Romania 2016 21 bd Vasile Lucaciu, 440031 Satu Mare Strada Principală, nr. 794 AIeud, Maramureș. (vol.1 & 2), Future Nuggets (Bucarest), MUST-DOS (see photos pages 26,34 - a et b) http://casatraditiilor.ro (photos pages 26,34 - c) 2012.

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Andreea The RomanianSTORY OF AN ICON Blouse FLYING THE FLAG Romanian blouses have been dressing women for almost 2,000 years, TanasescuOF ROMANIAN CRAFTSMANSHIP long before they became the topic of a hype Instagram account! Text Charlotte Urbain This universal and iconic item of clothing is a genuine institution in Photography Dragos Cristescu (Galateca) Romania, symbolizing the country’s culture, rich heritage and multifaceted character. Let’s take a look back on its history and most famous wearers... Text Louise Andrier & Charlotte Urbain

Touchdown in Cluj-Napoca, the capital of Transylvania. Andreea Tănăsescu – until today, we’ve rought to fame by have one thing in common: know- only known her by reputation – Matisse, who portrayed how passed down from mother to is waiting for us. Tall and dark- it beautifully in his daughter. Recently plagiarized by a haired, she greets us with a broad painting Romanian Blouse, this major fashion designer, traditional and generous smile, although buttonless shirt has become a blouse makers have fought back her mind is already busy fine- Bsymbol of Romanian national by creating the association La tuning our schedule. A woman identity. The blouse first appeared Blouse Roumaine, to protect their of passion, Andreea is always in the Neolithic era, in the 4th legacy. The blouse motifs are thrilled to share her culture and and 5th millennia, in the so-called many and varied, with flowers, show off the riches of Romanian Cucuteni-Trypillia culture named buds, grapes, oak leaves, snails and craftsmanship, in particular the after two Romanian villages. It flies all embroidered with fairy iconic Romanian blouse. It doesn’t is also featured on the bas-reliefs fingers, while mythical, sacred take us long to see that our trip to of Trajan’s Column in Rome, and even geometric elements also Romania in her company promises followers. Her aim was to use craft projects led passionately celebrating the emperor’s victory adorn the neck, bust and sleeves. to be exceptional. Known and social media to promote a symbol by Andreea. Her contagious over the Dacians. These warriors The designs are not created by appreciated by absolutely everyone, of Romania known throughout the enthusiasm and national renown of Decebalus wore the mythical chance: the right path is indicated she is the secret key that opens the globe, so that younger generations led us to the regions of Maramures tunic loosely over narrower pants. with straight lines, while the sun doors to Romania’s workshops... from her home country could and Transylvania, where we met Over the centuries, pieces of fabric is symbolized by circular shapes. Before embarking on the salvation reappropriate it and learn to take with incredibly-talented potters, were added to achieve the shape of Romanian craft heritage, pride in it. More than just a simple weavers and woodcarvers, all known today. What was once an Nothing featured on the true Andreea worked in the movies for initiative aimed at preserving local delighted to share their culture overall was slowly turning into a Romanian blouse is a coincidence; many years as a casting director craftsmanship – although that with us and present their ancient party piece... the various objects embody an and assistant director. She tells us is, of course, part of its aim –, arts. And that is how our wonderful entire mythology. The blouse about her former life: twenty years La Blouse Roumaine has become collaboration on the 2021 summer WOVEN WITH MYTHS was not considered as an element during which she learned how to a genuine social and cultural collection began! AND SYMBOLS of style until the 19th century: build a network, unite people from movement. And the proof of the prior to that, it was intended to all walks of life and, above all, pudding is the exuberance with Made of cotton, linen or silk, the protect women from dangers and think big! It all started in 2012, which her community greets each style and appropriation of this witchcraft. This spiritual dimension when Andreea created a Facebook new Instagram post. Now an history-packed garment have is also present in the manufacturing Facebook: LaBlouseRoumaine10 page called La Blouse Roumaine, now association, La Blouse Roumaine is Instagram: @lablouseroumaine continually been reinterpreted process and weavers must pray boasting an impressive 220,000 at the origin of numerous local Website: lablouseroumaine.io through the ages. However, they do before they get down to work.

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a turned it into a light summer devoted collections to this ethnic- WHEN outfit, while Yves Saint Laurent yet-refined blouse. Today, now entitled his fall-winter 1981 fully awakened to its heritage CRAFTS collection La Blouse Roumaine. value, Romanians celebrate the INSPIRE The tribute was reiterated in Universal Day of the Romanian ART 1999, when Laetitia Casta wore Blouse with great pomp and a white blouse embroidered splendor on June 24th – a date with gold. Other brands such chosen for its spiritual dimension, Painted in circa as Kenzo, Oscar de la Renta, as it coincides with the summer 1939-1940 and now Prada, Tom Ford, Jean-Paul solstice when the gates of heaven Gautier and Guillet have also open and the fairies descend... housed at the Paris Museum of Modern Art, Matisse’s work Romanian Blouse tells the story of gift from his Romanian artist friend Theodor Pallady. Portraying a blouse © © b HENRI MATISSE, La Blouse roumaine Succession H. Matisse Photo Centre Pompidou, MNAM-CCI, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais / Philippe Migeat with wide sleeves and stylized embroidery, it took Matisse seven months to achieve the painting’s pure c lines. Its harmonious colors, shapes, curves and brushstrokes lend the work incredible strength. The blouse is worn by Lydia Delectorskaya, the Women play a major role in the their authenticity can be verified coveted over the years by various history of the blouse and in bygone by the presence of the so-called and sometimes-surprising figures. artist’s assistant years, it was used to indicate social ajur technique. Failing which, it In the 19th century, Princess and model. Matisse and civil status as well as age. can be assumed that the blouse Elisabeth of Romania, then developed a passion Bright, bold colors meant that the was sewn by machine, rather Queen Marie in the interwar for this garment and, woman was single, while paler, than assembling the various fabric years, introduced this traditional thanks to Pallady, more modest tones indicated pieces using a cross or herringbone garment to the court. Archive started his own small that she was already taken. Later stitch. The association La Blouse images show the queen strolling collection from 1936 on, Romanian blouses became Roumaine was created to protect through Romanian villages a symbol of love, power, belief, this priceless traditional know-how and towns in a blouse. Marie onwards. Many of energy and spirituality. However, from today’s cultural and stylistic confided: “Twenty-three years his ink drawings and their individual style depends appropriation, as sadly, few artists have passed in this country, each studies depict the largely on their geographical and designers openly recognize its day bringing its joy or sadness, blouse worn by his origin and every region has its own Romanian roots. its light or dark. Every year my loyal Lydia, whose specificities. curiosity has expanded and my Slavic origin probably THE RISE TO STARDOM understanding has deepened; I played a part in his The blouses are nevertheless know where my help is needed.” produced in the same way in every A peasant blouse, item of under- Gabrielle Chanel – another kindling his artistic region. Handmade in cotton or wear and queen’s costume alike, mythical figure –, was inspired passion for white linen using natural colors, the Romanian blouse has been by the blouse in the 1920s and the garment.

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Books are always an invitation to a voyage of the mind, even during a pandemic! I hope you enjoy this hand-picked selection of stories and adventures from all over the globe. ETHIOPIA IRAN Welcome to my world of great reads and exotic daydreams from the comfort of your armchair... Tous, sauf moi (Everyone But Me) By Agnès Costa The Ungrateful Refugee by Francesca Melandri, by Dina Nayeri, Gallimard, 576 p. Presses de la Cité, 376 p.

In Rome, a young Ethiopian “But I do know why I’m here sheltering on the doorstep of - I’ve come because the world forty year-old Ilaria, announces is turning its back on refugees, that he is her nephew, the son of because America is no longer ADVENTURES a brother born before WWII when America and Europe is going their father, a black shirt during the the same way.” A narrative Nazi era, was sent to Addis Abeba. rather than a novel, this book A majestic fresco of Italy in the tells the story of a little Iranian years from Mussolini to Berlusconi, girl following her Christian FROM YOUR where history with a capital H meets mother driven out by the Iranian a touching personal story, both militia after the revolution in fabulously written. The characters a moving account combining her are endearing, the author’s experience as a refugee with the ARMCHAIR knowledge is astounding and the voices of the people she meets, suspense keeps the reader hooked EIGHT LITERARY STOP-OFFS AROUND THE WORLD often more unlucky than from beginning to end... her. This timid and compelling FRANCE work is a genuine plea for mutual aid and hospitality Les Cœurs inquiets (Troubled Hearts) in an inward-looking world. by Lucie Paye, Gallimard, 152 p. JAPAN

In this vibrant, beautifully written début Sweet Bean Paste novel, a young painter seeks a woman by Durian Sukegawa, who appeared in one of his works and TURKEY Le Livre de Poche, 224 p. a women writes the most beautiful letter A magnificent story of a friendship of them all – a declaration of unconditional 10 Minutes 38 Secondes between a lost young man and a love. Lucie Paye’s singular, crystal-clear In This Strange World wise old woman with a troubled past. UNITED STATES and poetic pen draws us into by Elif Shafak, As their friendship flourishes, social a mesmerizing mystery from Flammarion, 397 p. the very first pages. pressures become impossible to escape. The Resurrection of Joan Ashby A talented storyteller, by Cherise Wolas, Elif Shafak invites us to read Delcourt Littérature, 600 p. between the lines of the life and death of the beautiful INDIA Joan Ashby has always dreamed SUDAN young prostitute Tequila of being a writer and becomes Leila in Istanbul. Born into Shalom India Housing Society a wonder girl in the world of a rich family, Tequila flees Minaret by Esther David, New York literature. But after the countryside and her by Leila Aboulela, Éditions Héloïse d’Ormesson, 304 p. sacrificing everything for her stifling family in search Flammarion, 315 p. career, she gets married and falls of freedom, echoing the voice The Shalom India Housing Society pregnant... Devoted to her family A young and wealthy Sudanese of Turkish women today, is a little building in Ahmedabad, yet determined never to abandon women becomes an impoverished deprived of the right to speak. home to three generations writing, a betrayal of Shakespearian refugee after a coup in which A poignant and magnificently of a small Jewish community proportions prompts her to leave her father dies in shame. written novel. – quite a rarity in India. A story everything behind and seek This sensitively-written and extremely of crossed destinies, snubs, clashes out the ways of wisdom in India. stirring work switches between and love... A children’s fancy dress A little masterpiece exploring past and present, painting the picture contest forms the backdrop the challenges of being a woman, of an exiled community and for this endearing and colorful mother and artist, written with an uprooted woman desperately portrait gallery. A timeless yet such talent you’d love to become seeking a road map. resolutely current story. her best friend!

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MUSES& MUSEUMS

Photography Lucie Sassiat - Make-Up & Hair Sandra Lovi

Armed with flowering bouquets and a bunch of inspiration, the Fragonard team took up quarters at the Musée Jean-Honoré Fragonard in Grasse, making the most of its temporary closure. The aim: to turn the museum into the backdrop for the new

Spring-Summer 2021 collection and strike up a stylish dialogue Andréa is wearing between the worlds of art and fashion. After all, the muse the Irina woven cotton gingham dress with embroidered sleeves, €105 and the museum are just two little letters apart... 38 39 GET INSPIRED GET INSPIRED

Hortense is wearing the Jelena printed cotton dress, €85 and a printed tie as a belt, €10 Andréa is wearing the Darma hand-printed cotton dress, €80 40 41 GET INSPIRED GET INSPIRED

Alice, Andréa & Louise are wearing the Carmen hand-printed cotton kurta, €80

Sophie is wearing the Narcisa printed cotton dress, €50 42 43 GET INSPIRED GET INSPIRED

Léna is wearing the Irina woven cotton gingham kurta with embroidered sleeves, €120

Andréa is wearing the Karolina printed cotton dress, €95 44 45 GET INSPIRED GET INSPIRED

Andréa is wearing the Ivana hand-printed cotton dress, €120 46 Clément is wearing the Aurel hand-printed cotton shirt, €70 47 GET INSPIRED GET INSPIRED

Andréa is wearing the Irina woven cotton gingham dress Léna is wearing the Amalia printed silk blouse, €230 48 with embroidered sleeves, €105 49 GET INSPIRED GET INSPIRED

Léna is wearing the Ivana hand-printed cotton dress, €120 50 51 GET INSPIRED GET INSPIRED

Hortense is wearing the Helena printed cotton kurta, €60 Clément is wearing the Aurel hand-printed cotton shirt, €70 Louise is wearing the Karolina printed cotton dress, €95 Andréa is wearing the Amalita printed cotton kurta, €65 52 53 GET INSPIRED GET INSPIRED

Louise is wearing the Paquerette hand-printed cotton dress, €95 Left: Andréa is wearing the Anastasia woven cotton kurta with hand-embroidered collar, €85 54 and the Rena woven cotton gingham skirt, €65 55 GET INSPIRED GET INSPIRED

Léna is wearing the Amalia printed silk blouse, €230 Louise is wearing the Denisa embroidered cotton kurta, €105 56 57 GET INSPIRED GET INSPIRED

Andréa is wearing the Gina printed linen jacket, 150 € Hortense is wearing the Lana woven cotton kurta with embroidered sleeves, €120 58 59 GET INSPIRED GET INSPIRED

Alice is wearing the Valeria printed cotton chambray dress, €90 Sophie is wearing the light Olga, quilted, double-sided printed cotton jacket, €140 60 61 GET INSPIRED GET INSPIRED

Andréa is wearing the Daniela printed cotton kurta, €60 Louise is wearing the Bianca printed cotton kurta with lace inserts, €90

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Andréa is wearing the Andreea printed cotton kurta, €55 Alice is wearing the Cornelia printed linen dress, €95 Clément is wearing the Pavel printed cotton shirt, €70 Léna is wearing the Gina printed linen jacket, €150 64 65 GET INSPIRED GET INSPIRED

HORTENSE, sales assistant

ALICE & ANDRÉA graphic designers

LÉNA, product manager

LUCIE, photographer

LOUISE communications intern

SOPHIE, Avignon boutique manager

CLÉMENT, in charge of the Costume Museum 66 67 FRAGONARD COLLECTIONNEUR PRETTY AS A PICTURE! Text Charlotte Urbain - Photography Olivier Capp GET INSPIRED GET INSPIRED

Illustrious or more secretive painters, extraordinary landscapes, still lifes and mythological inspirations... The eight works selected for this brand new collection offer a stroll through three centuries of the history of art, from the 17th to the 19th century. Spanning a variety of genres, their only common denominator is their artistic magnificence.

Printed in a limited edition, landscape inspired by the Dutch our new pop-up collection school, in which the painter portrays of silk blouses is both daring a magnificent natural scene, and definitely different, inviting offering striking contrasts between the wearer to express their passion a vast expanse of cloudy skies and for art and desire to see and very-detailed characters on land. be seen... The collection heralds A genuine artistic feat. The second the launch of the “Fragonard painting is actually a preparatory Collectionneur” clothing line sketch for a lost work dating from celebrating works of art. the 1770s. Marked by a fresh, casual touch and bathed in backlighting, Art has always been an intimate it exhales vivacity and modernity. part of the history of Fragonard. Today, the house’s collections of Swathed in shimmering colors, ancient perfume bottles, paintings the second blouse represents two by Jean-Honoré Fragonard indoor scenes. A famous female and Provencal costumes all artist and official painter for have their very own museums Marie-Antoinette, celebrated – an exceptional and inspiring with a magnificent retrospective heritage, honored by the at the Grand Palais in 2016, Fragonard perfume, fashion Élisabeth Vigée-Le Brun took and lifestyle ranges. Each silk her inspiration here from the Greek blouse pays homage to two works. fable in which Amphion charms Welcome to their story. gods, humans and blocks of stone alike. Her work Amphion The first blouse in the collection and the Naiads Playing the Lyre is naturally a tribute to the great shows the growing admiration Grasse-born artist Jean-Honoré of the water nymphs for the son of N° Fragonard. On one side, Flock Zeus, playing his lyre. The back of 4 of Sheep, painted in 1775, is a the blouse unveils Reception of the Previous page: Still Life Of Flowers by Jean-Baptiste Blin de Fontenay (1653-1715) Above: Mountains at Thebes by Georges Clairin (1843-1919) 70 71 GET INSPIRED GET INSPIRED

representative of the king Four 100%-silk blouses, of Lombardy-Venetia at Each featuring the Doge’s Palace by Giuseppe a different work of art on the front and back. Borsato (1771-1849), set in the splendid Sala dei Pregadi, in which members of the Senate (Pregadi) were invited by the Doge N°1 to take part in council meetings. FLOCK OF SHEEP The precision and minute detail by Jean-Honoré Fragonard (1732-1806) of this work are truly outstanding. Flock of Sheep by Jean-Honoré Fragonard (1732-1806) & In a different vein, the third blouse THE VISITATION by Jean-Honoré Fragonard (1732-1806) is a tribute to 17th-century still lifes. Andries de Koninck’s apparently innocent fruit and lobsters are actually highly symbolic. Here, the artist

offers a sumptuous demonstration N° of pronkstilleven: a style of ornate 2

still life painting born in Antwerp AMPHION AND THE NAIADS in the 1640s, literally meaning PLAYING THE LYRE “ostentatious still life”. by Élisabeth Vigée-Le Brun (1755-1842) The back (or front depending on how & you want to wear the blouse) features RECEPTION OF THE REPRESENTATIVE Jean-Baptiste Blin de Fontenay’s OF THE KING OF LOMBARDY-VENETIA AT THE DOGE’S PALACE very-realistic Still Life of Flowers by Giuseppe Borsato (1771-1849) – an astonishingly refreshing N°2 and modest work.

Finally, the last blouse takes us into N° the 19th century. Quasi-abstract, 3 the work of Orientalist artist Georges Clairin features a surreal ELABORATE STILL LIFE WITH A LOBSTER rocky desert scene, softened by by Andries de Koninck (c. 1615-1659) a spectacular, pink-tinged light. The mountains, described by the & artist as “chained lions”, contribute STILL LIFE OF FLOWERS by Jean-Baptiste Blin de Fontenay (1653-1715) to the scene’s magical and captivating character. This painting was presented at the “Traveling Painters

& Photographers” exhibition at the N° Musée Jean-Honoré Fragonard 4 in 2014. The rear shows a canine figure by Lancelot-Théodore Turpin MOUNTAINS AT THEBES de Crissé. Born into a family of artists by Georges Clairin (1843-1919) and collectors, the painter – also an

author – spent his life working in & N° GREYHOUND, FLOWER POT high-level administrative functions. 2 AND SEWING BOX Elaborate Still Life With A Lobster by Andries de Koninck (1643-1659) His travels to Italy enriched his by Lancelot-Théodore Turpin de Crissé (1782-1859) creative talent and spurred his taste for landscape art. 72 73 GET INSPIRED GET INSPIRED

Above: SASCHIZ handmade collection. Large dish, €45, Carved wooden spoon, €30, Salad bowl, €40, Plate, €15 AMALIA tablecloth 100% cotton, 160×160, €80 160×280, €100

Left: ANITA, IOAN cushions, 45×45cm, 100% cotton, €30 LIVIU cushion, 30×50cm, 100% cotton, €35 A shimmering array of flowers and traditional costumes, deep blues and bright tints accompanied us on our Romanian travels, inspiring this stunningly colorful collection!

Photography Olivier Capp

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Above: ILEANA vase, 18×10cm, printed metal, €24

Right: ILENA tablecloth, 160×160cm, €80 160×280cm, €100, 100% cotton HELENA plate, Ø 20.5cm, porcelain, Set of 4 €30 Ø 27cm, porcelain, Set of 4 €40

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Above: TIMEA tray, 32×23cm, €35, printed metal

Left: TIMEA vase 18×10cm, printed metal €24. TIMEA box, 24×16×6cm, lacquered wood, €35

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Above: ILEANA and OANA cushions, 45×45cm, 100% cotton, €30 SANDA cushion, 30×50cm, 100% cotton, €30

Right: TIMEA pillowcases, printed cotton percale, 45×45cm, €45

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Audrey’sLITTLE HOUSE in Picardy

Spontaneous and nature-loving, Audrey Maillard has been a graphic designer at Fragonard for the last decade. A vegetarian, pacifist and committed environmentalist, she lives in a pretty, 19th-century brick farmhouse located a dozen or so kilometers from Compiègne, which she shares with her three sons aged 3, 12 and 14, her partner Raphaël and her “cuddly” friends...

Text Charlotte Urbain - Photography Olivier Capp Stepping into Audrey's home 82 83 SHARE SHARE

FM: When did you first start AM: The “Jardins du Parfumeur” drawing? range! A collection of eaux de parfum, soaps, candles and AM: I’ve always loved drawing diffusers launched in 2012, but and painting. When I was a little I worked on the project for nearly girl, my 1st grade teacher told my 2 years before that. It was my first assignment, and when I showed parents I made beautiful flower my initial drafts to Agnès Costa, bouquets. Our school wasn’t far I was pretty nervous… Luckily, from the woods and meadows and Agnès really liked them. My second we went there a lot. The bouquets big moment was discovering the were like three-dimensional works finished products. It was magical! of art to me. I started drawing and painting when I was 9. I loved FM: What do you like best doing sketches of my cats while about your job? they were asleep using watercolor paints – in fact I still use the same AM: Painting watercolors. It’s a technique for my creative work real privilege to be able to work at Fragonard. There’s a very by hand today rather than on a spontaneous aspect to it that suits computer. Companies that don’t me. And you can’t go back: once require you to draw everything using software to save time are rare. you’ve started, you’re not allowed My style has evolved over the last to make mistakes! decade, but my work has stayed the same: real-life drawing! FM: Your childhood passions have now become your FM: Where and how do you profession - flowers and work? Above: Watercolors for drawings could aptly describe the Rêve d’Arles diffuser. your job at Fragonard! What AM: I love to work in total peace Left: Fragonard tablecloth, Route de la Soie edition (2015), was your first project with us? and quiet. I have a big office filled designed by Audrey.

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with natural light that I added to plants from home decorating the house, along with a vast bay magazines. But I soon realized window. I’d made a mistake. Today I plant local, with a few flowers between FM: Your home resembles the tomatoes. The hens run you. It’s filled with flowers, around among fruit trees and unpretentious, in harmony I’ve got a large permaculture with nature and its walls vegetable garden. are covered in wisteria and Virginia creeper... Tell us FM: What’s your favorite its story. place in the house?

AM: My house echoes my garden. AM: The henhouse. I love sitting I’ve always had flower-filled on a bench and watching my gardens. I fell in love with the chickens. It’s such fun, they have place immediately the first time their own language and they’re I visited. I adored everything amazing when they start brooding. about it: the inner courtyard, They don’t leave their nest for two the vaulted cellar, the well... or three weeks, they don’t eat or It needed a complete overhaul drink and their combs turn white. – it was an old farmhouse The expression “mother hen” with no upper level or electricity. really is accurate! I chose a heavy But strangely, although everything variety so I didn’t have to clip needed re-doing on the inside, their wings – it’s supposed to be Above: DIY henhouse I mainly worked on the garden. painless but I can’t stand the idea. Cochin hen I originally wanted to create an Right: Wooden furniture The Cochin hens are very fluffy hunted down in India ornamental garden and selected and I love their yellow feet and

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docile character. My hens are like I used to like working with clay, but plushies – they give me eggs, but it’s very frustrating as the slightest especially cuddles! air bubble makes the sculpture explode when its fired. Now I work FM: In addition to creating with papier mâché, which is 100% boxes and bottles for environmentally-friendly. I mix egg perfumery, you design our boxes with flour glue – there’s no carved soaps. Is it true that firing involved and in the worst case, Mother Nature saved one of any mistakes can go in the compost. our projects? I’ve even discovered that I can dye the papier mâché using soil from the AM: During lockdown, I didn’t have garden to make ochre, red, yellow or any materials to make my sculptures. brown... only natural colors. I create So I went to the river to collect some lots of busts and animal trophies. My clay, which allowed me to make the boys wanted some for their rooms. mock-up for the soap mold for our My last project was for a brand Christmas soap. I sculpt all the committed to fighting deforestation: mock-ups for the carved soaps. they’ve created a chocolate spread Above: Fragonard Winter 2020 scarf It’s a three-dimensional challenge called Papa Outang. designed by Audrey on a papier mâché wolf head sculpted by Audrey. I really enjoy as it’s a lot like my Left: Terracotta pots made by Audrey. personal work.

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FM: Where does your environmental commitment come from?

AM: Recycling and the environment are key to my everyday life. My saddest moment as a child was when the TV presenter Patrick Poivre d’Arvor invited an Amazonian chief onto his show who presented terrifying images of the forest. Above: Cat and matching parquet flooring. Left: Embroidered door curtain I was 10 years old. I cried every (souvenir from India), Fragonard tiger mat. night for a long time. Everything has an impact: lobbies won’t change, so it’s up to us. I want to give the right example to my children. It’s like politeness: we teach them to say hello and thank you so why not teach them to take care of our planet too?

RAPHAËL’S HONEY After training as a beekeeper in 2015, Audrey’s partner Raphaël – also a graphic designer – realized that many French beekeepers didn’t have good quality or personalized labels for their products. As he discovered the profession and went about setting up his own hives, he launched a successful business creating original, personalized labels for his fellow honey producers. Five years on, Raphaël owns twenty-fives hives, makes his own honey and has a website dedicated to his labels: www.beestickers.org

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Star-spangled Chef Jacques Chibois opened his hotel-restaurant in Grasse in 1997. The ancient terraces and olive groves of La Bastide Saint-Antoine, a grand old 17th-century Provencal house, pan out on the heights of Grasse. Crowned by top food guides including Michelin and Gault & Millau, and ranked among the Grandes Tables du Monde (Great Tables of the World), La Bastide invites guests on a delicious gastronomic voyage overflowing with audacious flavors, fragrances and colors. A master of taste, Jacques Chibois’ heartfelt, astonishing and creative cuisine sings the praises of Provencal sunshine. Today, the Grasse chef is unveiling the secrets of two new recipes on the passion fruit theme, created specially for Fragonard. A culinary encounter of the delicious kind! Interview Charlotte Urbain / Photography Didier Bouko PASSION onTHE PLATE From Limoges where you were born, you I got together with the former president of the crisscrossed France before setting up home perfumers’ guild to create a school of flavors and in Grasse, the world’s perfume capital, fragrances, because gastronomy and perfumery share RECIPES where you opened your hotel-restaurant La the same values. Our noses are our first “tasters”: by Bastide Saint-Antoine. How has perfumery flavors and fragrances converge on the same spot, JACQUES influenced your art? situated on the olfactory bulb. CHIBOIS Setting up home in Grasse was a real revelation and You have imagined two recipes based on profoundly changed my way of cooking. Grasse is a passion fruit honoring Fragonard’s flower genuine ode to the senses: a world of flowers - many A GASTRONOMIC of the year. What does passion fruit add to a edible – that opened up new horizons for me. Being in dish? And how do you like to pair it? STROLL THROUGH contact with great perfumers is very enriching and I’ve THE CAPITAL OF PERFUME often worked alongside the renowned Grasse perfumer Passion fruit is a fruit combining both flavor and Jean-Claude Ellena. We collaborated on his perfume aroma. Its succulent juice has everything to please. launches: I had to create entire meals using the main It has a fairly universal taste and marries well with ingredients comprising each perfume. The whole sweet and savory dishes alike, a bit like citrus fruit. Grasse economy revolves around perfume, so I was Its acidity adds a fabulous touch to sweet dishes. bound to cross paths with the local perfumers, perfume Its flavor and scent are powerful, without being houses and perfume plant producers at some point. I personally backed the town’s World Heritage candidacy disagreeable and its taste lingers on the palette. It’s led by Senator Jean-Pierre Leleux and we entertained best used in small doses, as it’s very strong. A few the UNESCO ambassadors at La Bastide. Perfume is drops of passion fruit juice associated with olive oil omnipresent here and has been from time immemorial. make an exceptional vinaigrette. For me, passion fruit My first book is entitled Saveurs et parfums de l’huile d’olive has infinite uses. The word passion is already fabulous (Flavors and Perfumes of Olive Oil) - La Bastide is in itself. In the kitchen, there are products that give set in a 25-acre olive grove and we produce our own taste and products that receive taste. Passion fruit is olive oil every year. I consider it as the true gold of a giver! This fruit is as popular in gastronomy as it is Grasse. The local farmland, planted with veteran in perfumery. olive trees, orange and citrus trees has deeply inspired my cuisine. Our perfume plants and edible flowers La Bastide Saint-Antoine , 48, avenue Henri-Dunant, Grasse offer a magical encounter between scent and taste. Tel: +33 (0)4 93 70 94 94 www.jacques-chibois.com

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FENNEL AND SEA BASS SALAD CARAMEL VANILLA CREAM with a Candied Lemon & Passion Fruit Vinaigrette with Passion Fruit & Walnut

For 4 people VINAIGRETTE FINISHING TOUCHES Preparing the vanilla cream 5 cl passion fruit Candied lemon vinaigrette FISH 10 cl olive oil Rosettes Bring the milk, vanilla and cream to the boil 1 x 500 g sea bass, 1 quarter candied A few sorrel leaves (optional) in a saucepan.Meanwhile, whisk the sugar and egg yolks filleted lemon thoroughly in a bowl. Pour the hot milk onto the mixture 150 g fine salt 20 g honey 150 g coarse salt and add the gelatin leaves pre-soaked in cold water 150 g sugar SALAD after pressing between your fingers. Whisk well again. 5 g pepper grains 2 fennel bulbs Pour the preparation into 6 ramequins measuring 10 g cloves 1/4 bunch dill around 10 cm in diameter and 2 cm in height. 1 lemon zest The sea bass fillets Place in an oven pre-heated to 90°C for 1 hour. Leave to cool, then place in the freezer. Once frozen, remove by running hot water on the upside-down ramequins, then slide them onto a chopping board using a knife tip. Allow to return to room temperature.

Preparing the caramel Heat the sugar in a saucepan with a dash of water to make Preparing the sea bass marinated in salt the caramel. It should be a golden brown color. Remove Remove the skin from the sea bass, then put aside in the from the heat and quickly mix in the cream refrigerator. Place all the other ingredients (minus the salt) and passion fruit juice (put the seeds aside for presentation). in a bowl and blend to crush the spices. Sprinkle some Cook for 3 minutes. of the mixed fine and coarse salt on a plate, place the fish fillets on top and cover them with the rest of the salt. Leave in Preparing the passion fruit jelly the refrigerator for 2 hours, then rinse under a gentle stream Heat the passion fruit juice, sugar and water in a saucepan. of water and drain. Once the sugar has dissolved, remove from the heat and mix Refrigerate. in the gelatin leaves pre-soaked in cold water after pressing

between your fingers. Leave to cool and put aside Preparing the vinaigrette in the refrigerator. Then, chop the jelly thinly and mix Separate the lemon zest from the flesh using a knife. in a few passion fruit seeds rinsed in a fine sieve. Chop the lemon flesh and place in a bowl. Slice the zest thinly Add the passion fruit juice. Stir in with a spoon. lengthways and add to the bowl with the flesh. Add the honey and passion fruit juice. Season and add a drizzle of olive oil. Put aside. Preparing the coconut Preparing the salad Split open the coconut using the back of a very large knife Slice the fennel and sea bass into thin slivers. Remove the leaves or a small hammer after piercing the top to drain the milk. For 6 people Mix the coconut milk with the caramel sauce. Peel the coconut from the dill. Cut a piece of greaseproof paper into 4 strips VANILLA CREAM PASSION FRUIT JELLY measuring 20 cm x 5 cm. Place the fennel slivers in a row on flesh using a potato peeler, then cut into slivers or chips. 40 cl single cream 60 g passion fruit juice one strip, overlapping slightly. Add the slivers of sea bass, 10 cl semi-skinned milk 25 cl water then the dill leaves. Roll up the greaseproof paper to form Finishing touches 1 vanilla pod 25 g caster sugar Place a small, even circle of caramel sauce at the center 50 g caster sugar 2 gelatin leaves (4 g) a rosette. Repeat for the three remaining rosettes. 7.5 g gelatin leaves 1 pinch powdered of each plate using a ladle. Place the back of the ladle 5 egg yolks curcuma Finishing touches on each circle and rotate to widen the circle, making Place the rosettes at the center of each plate and drizzle it about 2 cm larger than the diameter of your vanilla cream. PASSION FRUIT CARAMEL FINISHING TOUCHES 75 g caster sugar 1 coconut with the candied lemon vinaigrette to season. Decorate Arrange the jelly attractively on top of the vanilla cream, 20 cl single cream a few passion with a few sorrel sprigs as desired. Serve. then decorate with coconut. 40 g passion fruit juice fruit seeds

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His surname – meaning flowers – no His maternal grandfather used to Hervé de Fontmichel. Inaugurated keep indoors: in just a few weeks, he doubt predestined him to thrive in take his mother to the municipal in 1976, the Centre International de set up an entire new artistic project the capital of perfume... And over the theater in Oran, in Algeria, but Jean Grasse was renamed the Théâtre fostering solidarity between local years, with each new theater season, discovered the performing arts in de Grasse in 1990. Jean went on artists named “Par les villages” (Walk he has planted flowers in the hearts the gypsy hamlet of Plan de Grasse, to launch an ambitious artistic About the Villages), in reference of his audiences, seeds of magic in where his mother was the secretary program that hoisted the theater to the dramatic poem written by the eyes of children and sprouts of of an association. The hamlet was a to fame. In 2002, it became an playwright Peter Handke. Thanks curiosity in the minds of adolescents. yearly meeting place for Piedmontese official “Stage of National Interest” to this artist-in-residence program, Originally trained as a teacher, Jean Sinti: gypsies who spent winter in for dance and circus arts and was around a dozen local performing has always loved youngsters and Grasse before traveling to Saintes- awarded the “Regional Center for arts troupes were able to front creates acrobatic shows specially for Maries-de-la-Mer. As years went Cultural Development” label by artistic initiatives in the villages them, driven by a desire to nourish by, they ended up settling in the the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur around Grasse. In his 35 years as their enthusiasm and keep his hamlet and created the Nuits Tsiganes Regional Council in 2003. More a theater director, Jean has always legacy alive; after all, the budding festival, a genuine eye-opener for recently, in 2017, the current known how to reinvent himself young aficionados of today will be Jean, who was still a child at the time. mayor Jerôme Viot launched a and is more than ready for the the adult audiences of tomorrow. His artistic choices often revolve series of major works, including “world after”. And in his 35 years His theater is molded in his image: around the issue of migration. the complete refurbishment of the of programming, he has never it is a lively hub sans frontières, where hall, restoration of the facade and ceased to hunt down talents from every form of art (theater, dance, Deeply attached to the Grasse modernization of the stage fittings. throughout the globe and bring circus, visual arts and music) and region, which he has never left, Jean barely had time to inaugurate them to Grasse. His track record every nationality rub shoulders. Jean Flores was one of the founding his brand new venue before the is a fitting reminder that theater members of a cultural project pandemic forced him to close the is an essential part of life – and JEAN French nationals born in Algeria, launched by the former mayor curtains. But he isn’t a man you can that our liberty to dream is vital... Jean’s grandparents were originally FLORÈS “conversos”: Spanish Jews who converted to Catholicism and &THÉÂTRE practiced their dual religion in secret. Three generations and two de GRASSE uprootings later (his grandparents fled Andalusia for Algeria, and his parents left French Algeria for FRAGONARD, A PATRON OF THÉÂTRE DE GRASSE THE BEATING HEART OF THE TOWN Grasse), Jean, now a flourishing young man, built his theater career Jean Flores has fostered fruitful ties between the worlds of performing in the cosmopolitan town of Grasse, arts and business through the “Club of Patrons and Partners of Théâtre home to a North African community de Grasse”, formed in 2012. Fragonard has supported this project from that echoes his birthplace and family the outset: in addition to an annual financial contribution, our perfume history. When his parents moved house has launched numerous projects bringing our professions and infrastructures together. We still have stirring memories of the One of the town’s foremost cultural figures, Jean Flores here in 1963, Jean was barely 6 years old. His father, a dental technician, magnificent musical performance by the “Mavrigi” ensemble from Bukhara – the Fragonard team met the artists during their trip to has been directing the Théâtre de Grasse since its creation – opened a practice in the historic and even before. Today, we look back on the dawn Uzbekistan. Théâtre de Grasse has also held several concerts at the quarter, where he worked until he Jean-Honoré Fragonard museum. Today, the Club has around fifteen of his career and beloved theater, now the beating heart retired. Jean’s regular visits to his patrons (all from the Grasse region) and raises over €100K every year of the town and a flagship performing arts venue. father’s office to lend a helping for specific regional projects. hand undoubtedly contributed Text Charlotte Urbain / Photography Karolina Koldubaj to his attachment to the town. Information: 2, avenue Maximin Isnard, 06130 GRASSE, www.theatredegrasse.com

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10 YEARS OF ACQUISITIONS AT THE MUSÉE JEAN-HONORÉ FRAGONARD

HÉLÈNE & JEAN-FRANÇOIS COSTA COLLECTION

By Carole Blumenfeld, art historian and exhibition curator

Inaugurated in 2011, the Musée Jean-Honoré Fragonard in Grasse is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year with a brand new exhibition. A decade rich in new acquisitions, some never-before-seen until today. Carole Blumenfeld, the exhibition curator, unveils some of the masterpieces by Jean-Honoré Fragonard, Marguerite Gérard and Jean-Baptiste Mallet that await. The exhibition pays tribute to Jean-François Costa, who would have celebrated his 100th birthday this year. Running from June 19th to September 30th, 2021 JEAN-HONORÉ FRAGONARD L'Oiseau chéri at the Musée Jean-Honoré Fragonard in Grasse. Circa 1785

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In 2011, Jean-François Costa offered his beloved town of Grasse a showcase for Jean-Honoré Fragonard, Marguerite Gérard and Jean-Baptiste Mallet, designed to offer the three Grasse-born artists the recognition they deserved and encourage his fellow countrymen to take pride in their sometimes-unfamiliar artistic talent. At the time, Jean-François Costa confided that Fragonard's paintings sparked his enthusiasm for art – a passion he then handed down to his wife, Hélène, and three daughters, Anne, Agnès and Françoise. Since his death in 2012, his daughters have continued to fly the flag of his work and enrich the museum and its collections. In addition to exhibitions every summer, they are also committed to furthering research into Fragonard, Marguerite Gérard – whose first monograph was published with their backing in THE PRIVATE LIFE OF FRAGONARD 2019 – and Jean-Baptiste Mallet. And especially, they have made many new acquisitions honoring Jean-François Costa firmly believed that Fragonard their father's favorite passions and some of the excelled in every genre. He collected religious works little-know facets of the careers of these illustrious by the artist – such as La Visitation –, together with Grasse painters. This spring, to celebrate the 10th portraits, landscapes, allegories and genre scenes anniversary of the museum and the birthday of mostly painted between 1760 and 1770, considered for its founder – who would have been blowing out many years as the golden age of the Grasse painter’s a hundred candles this year! – around ten new career. Until very recently, it was thought that as the JEAN-HONORÉ FRAGONARD paintings will be joining the many acquisitions French Revolution approached, Fragonard lost some Chien à tête d’homme, bondissant, made since 2011. The museum collection has drawing in black stone reworked of his status with art lovers and was given the cold with a quill, 1783-1788 now doubled in size, offering the public a fabulous shoulder by the most prominent dealers at the time. Fragonard et sa famille au spectacle, opportunity to discover never-before-seen works, Today, Anne, Agnès and Françoise Costa are shining drawing in black stone reworked with a quill, 1783-1788 while inviting them to reflect on the relationship a different light on the 1780 decade thanks to recent between Grasse and its artists in the light of new discoveries. In 2013, the museum acquired a unique research lifting the veil on their private lives and ties series of drawings in which Fragonard portrayed with the capital of perfume. Jean-François Costa the genteel lifestyle of his loved ones alongside the and his daughters have taken up the gauntlet and family of his patron Pierre Bergeret. L’Oiseau chéri – a continue to defend these astonishing artists, who painting lost since the 19th century – was added to have spread the fame of Grasse a thousand leagues the collection in 2018. Its great sensitivity, combined from the flower fields... with the artist’s compelling figures sculpted in shades of green bathed in a Rembrandtesque light, caused quite a stir. By chance, a few months before this discovery, the Musée Jean-Honoré Fragonard had purchased a small painting on ivory in which Fragonard portrayed the same child depicted in L’Oiseau chéri. La Nouvelle du retour and L’Espoir du retour, two collaborative works by Fragonard and Marguerite Gérard created to please aficionados of the Dutch Golden Age and never shown to the public, will soon be joining this ensemble, testifying to the creative frenzy and competitive spirit of the family studio in those brilliant, dazzling years.

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JEAN-BAPTISTE MALLET, ANOTHER UNFAIRLY-FORGOTTEN GRASSE PAINTER

Since its creation, one of the museum’s major battle horses has been the defense of Jean-Baptiste Mallet. Jean-François Costa brought together the world’s largest collection of works by Mallet, while subsequent acquisitions, including such little gems as L’Innocence et la Fidélité ramenant l’Amour, now throw the spotlight on an entire career of which only the early troubadour HONORING MARGUERITE GÉRARD period were known previously. Today, the museum walls highlight Mallet’s revolutionary years during Museums dedicated to female artists are extremely which – as we discovered only recently – he travelled rare and the 2017 opening of the Camille Claudel to Rome, hoping to transform the disarray of exiled museum in her home town of Nogent-sur-Seine was families into a more poetic and spiritual reality. The a major and unique event in France. Marguerite exhibition focuses in particular on the Empire period, Gérard has also been honored at Hôtel de Villeneuve when Mallet – a disciple of Prud’hon – decided to for the last decade and over thirty of her paintings reinvent himself, drawing inspiration from ancient from all periods will soon be on show. Although literature. The career of this enthusiastic artist, Jean-François Costa had a passion for her works who constantly strived to adapt to the desires and from the Directory and Empire, the museum has changing tastes of French art lovers over four decades, now acquired many works from her formative years simply cannot be resumed in his first gouaches. under the reign of Louis XVI or later, under the Restoration, just before she laid down her brushes. Marguerite Gérard painted tirelessly for fifty years, continually renewing her style and palette to adapt to the tastes and issues of the era. Today, the museum possesses both portraits and genre scenes including the troubadour-style painting L’Inspiration one of her last works, painted on the eve of the July Monarchy and purchased in 2018. Shown alongside Marie- Thérèse présentant le futur empereur Joseph II aux grands de Hongrie by Alexandre-Évariste Fragonard, it highlights the fruitful relationship between the aunt and her nephew, and with Jean-Baptiste Mallet, whose compositions inspired by medieval literature and the Renaissance also have pride of place on the walls. Striking up dialogues between the various works, the exhibition layout offers the public new keys to understanding the rich exchanges between the artists and their interactions with the cultural context at the time.

MARGUERITE GÉRARD, "Ten years of acquisitions at the Jean-Honoré Fragonard, Collection JEAN-BAPTISTE MALLET L’Espoir du retour, 1788-1789 Hélène and Jean-François Costa", exhibition from June 19th to La Somnambule, 1810 September 30th, 2021 at the Musée Jean-Honoré Fragonard in Grasse

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and friends hard at work reinventing AN EXHIBITION BY VISUAL ARTIST and revolutionizing the social order, SABINE PIGALLE drawing inspiration from major We were unable to host the literary works and building on the “Timequakes” photo exhibition by work of their lodges and societies. Sabine Pigalle in 2020 due to the A few months earlier, when the health crisis and closure of France’s Gérard sisters took part in the first cultural venues. Rescheduled in public demonstration of artists in summer 2021, the public will finally favor of the Revolution, travelling to be able to discover the work of this talented Parisian visual artist. Versailles to offer their jewelry to the Created specially for the event, country, it was one of her models, the these never-before-seen works are deputy of the Third Estate of Grasse, inspired by one of the museum’s Jean-Joseph Mougins de Roquefort, latest major acquisitions - a secret who rose up to ask the National well-kept by Maison Fragonard this Assembly to recognize these women entire time, also to be unveiled at as patriots – a request that was the temporary exhibition on the completely ignored by his peers. At a museum’s upper level. Sabine’s time when prejudice towards women digital odysseys are inspired by Renaissance masterpieces with was becoming more blatant every a resolutely new twist. Sowing day, Marguerite Gérard benefited trouble and doubt, and questioning from great support from the Grasse our memory, her enigmatic and politician, while the enthusiasm hybrid work blurs the lines between of her fellow countrymen for her photography and painting, two work never dwindled in Grasse and major artistic disciplines the town's must illustrious figures opposed for many years. all commissioned portraits from her. Over time, the paintings were dispersed around the globe: for example, the Portrait de Jean-Yves Roubaud was located in Tokyo until it was acquired by the museum in 2018. Luckily, many have returned home today and we are delighted to pay tribute to the Grasse militants The museum is now home to who took pride in the renown earned GRASSE, almost all of the portraits painted FLYING by Marguerite Gérard during her by Marguerite Gérard through her stay in Grasse in 1790-1791, where work. More than just the "happy “Timequakes” exhibition THE FLAG OF she celebrated her 30th birthday. homeland" poetically described by Sabine Pigalle When she and her brother-in-law Musée Jean-Honoré Fragonard A FEMALE by the Goncourt brothers, their 14 rue Jean-Ossola, 06130 Grasse Jean-Honoré, sister Marie-Anne and presence on the museum walls Free entry / Tel. +33(0)4 93 36 02 07 ARTIST nephew Alexandre-Évariste set down paints Grasse as a fertile soil of the usines-parfum.fragonard.com their bags in Grasse on the eve of the Revolution for a year's holiday Age of Enlightenment and French intended to restore the master's Revolution, where a certain equality “Portrait of Caterina Sforza” MARGUERITE GÉRARD inspired by Lorenzo di Credi, 1480-83 L’Atelier du peintre(detail), 1822-1826 health, they discovered their family reigned between men and women. © Sabine Pigalle

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A-Z OF A CENTENARY

is fort ART

Jean-François was born in the early hours of a winter morning in the Villa Costa, his parents art-filled home on the plateau Saint-Hilaire in Grasse. His mother, Émilie Fuchs, daughter of the founder of Parfumerie Fragonard, passed on her love of art and collecting to him. In fact, it was on a walk with his mother that a 15-year old Jean-François would purchase his first piece of furniture, a small Louis XVI secretaire that he would use as a… bar! His curiosity and cultivation drew him to all the arts, from furniture Homage to to silver to painting and to perfumery. His greatest source of joy was exhibiting his varied and diverse collections in the museums he opened during the time that he was at the helm of Fragonard.

is for entrance that would be rung BOIS DORMANT whenever we ventured too far off and a heavy knocker Our parents’ house in Grasse on the front door instead of was a home filled with a buzzer to announce guests, happiness. Our father who were always welcome bought this simple, around our table. 19th century farmhouse Meals at Bois Dormant were in 1955 against the heaven for gourmets, because as advice of his father, far back as I can remember, the who thought it was too food was always delicious. Light, far away from town. Its local, Provencal, the cooking, sprawling grounds full of which my mother oversaw with hiding places, scattered an unerring sense of simplicity, with flowers both wild and was just perfect: mostly regional, cultivated, were heaven seasonal products at a table that for us children. My mother was always elegant, beautiful, adored the garden, making her and refined. rounds several times a week with It was above all paradise for a her flat basket and her dogs to collector, namely our father, who pick the beautifully colored and selecting only the ripest cherries, figs, was always on the lookout for a Jean-François scented flowers to decorate all and even jujubes, a tree and a fruit piece to add, be it a painting on the rooms in the house. that has by now all but disappeared. the wall, a pair of wing chairs, a There were rows of very fragrant And when we had eaten our fill, we gaming table, or a piece of silver By Agnès Costa roses, osmanthus, and hundreds would bring more home, along with for which he spent hours in his of narcissus, sweet peas, resedas, leaves as decoration for our meals small study, filled with books Costa jasmines, and honeysuckles. The and small bouquets of wildflowers and papers, trying to discover walls disappeared behind the for our mother. Mario, the old, straw- its origin and the name many vines, and the stretches hatted gardener, showed us how of its creator. of lawn were dotted with wild to grow our very first little gardens The house faced south to let January 27, 1921 would have been the centenary of our father anemones, buttercups, pansies, of aromatic plants and flowers in the light, from which it was Jean-François Costa’s birth. These letters of the alphabet are my very personal way violets, and daisies. On a hillside, from which we would try to extract nevertheless sheltered from the the stone-walled terraces were their essence, using all manner of summer sun by large lindens and of paying homage to this extraordinary man, and of sharing filled with fruit trees, and we macerations. fortunately also window blinds. some memories of the many facets of his life. would spend hours in their shade There was a big bronze bell at the The rooms were filled with

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a wide variety of objects, collections perfumery, she was the one responsible of moustier ceramics, Provencal for the beautiful Lalique bottles that furniture sculpted with flowers now form part of our collections, but and fruits, mirrors in gilded wood perhaps most importantly, for the frames, and exotic rugs. Provencal gilded estagnon that has emblematized commodes and wardrobes contained Fragonard since the end of WWII. piles and piles of Provencal fabrics Problems in procuring glassware gave that our mother had bought for what her the idea to gild the traditional would one day become one of the container used in Grasse’s factories, most beautiful private collections of the brushed aluminum bottle. Provencal fabrics and jewelry, now Émilie was a very cultivated woman exhibited in the museum in Grasse who was passionate about art, that we inaugurated in painting, and silver, a passion she her honor in 1997. transmitted to her son, for whom she had the highest expectations. She pushed him to study chemistry, which he unfortunately had to break off because of the war, and then to join Fragonard, where they worked hand in hand. Her health was very fragile; as a is for ÉMILIE survivor of the Spanish flu and a bout with typhoid, she suffered terribly Attorney Eugène Fuchs, a notary from rheumatoid arthritis later in in Saint-Chamond who came to life. Not a day would go by without Grasse to become a perfumer, had Jean-François paying her a visit, and if is for DIRECTOR four children, all of whom were he was traveling, they would exchange extremely talented: Lucienne studied letters almost daily. Émilie was a very is for GRASSE Jean-François Costa spent the better at Beaux-Arts, the Academy of Fine modern woman for her time, and part of his life working. He loved his Arts, Germaine, piano at the music her intelligence and creativity drew Our father was very attached business as much as he did his family, conservatory, and Georges enlisted as everyone to her for her company to his hometown. The city’s renown and he went into work every day, a fighter pilot during WWI. and advice. She passed away at 74, the world over, in which his company even on Sundays and on holidays. Émilie, Jean-François’ mother, became exhausted by her illness, but the fact also had a hand, was very important He would often got to his office to her father’s assistant in the notary’s that she transmitted her creative to him, and even more so, that be alone and do what he liked best: office and then at Fragonard, which talent to me means everything of its most famous native son, to think. He believed that an office is where her talents truly flourished. to me. I am incredibly proud Jean-Honoré Fragonard, should be empty and orderly: As the head of purchasing for the to be her granddaughter. to whom he dedicated a museum. “a table free of papers and files is better for thinking than the disorder with which we often live.” He always took advantage of French holidays to go abroad to countries is for CHANCE buzzing with activity, because he is for HÉLÈNE hated idleness. Our family vacations La chance in French means good luck or fortune. “The most essential consisted of a rare, few days usually “Marry someone in your own town, and if you can, thing in my life has been my good luck. The good fortune of having spent in cities where cultural activities from your same street” (Provencal saying). remarkable parents who gave me my work ethic and fostered my abounded. Jean-François had the imagination, excellent teachers and loyal friends, the good fortune good fortune of being born into Once upon a time... It could be a modern fairy tale, of having surrounded myself, at work and at home, with people who a family of perfumers who were because it had all the right ingredients. Of course, are capable, nice, and loyal, who have let me do other things and precursors to what we now call it was never that simple, but that won’t stop to envision my future, the good fortune of having a wife and three industrial tourism. He succeeded us from dreaming… daughters who are all exceptional. The good fortune of being born in in transforming the small business Grasse, a lovely town, and to have inherited a business that is all in all founded by his father and uncle into Hélène was a beautiful, and well-mannered young easy to run (it’s easier to sell perfume on the Côte d’Azur than it is to a dynamic cornerstone of the region. woman, the daughter of a merchant in Cannes sell iron rods in Lorraine!). And lastly, the good fortune of having had Fragonard was his family, and to the (her father had a butcher shop near the Forville market). good health. So, what is luck? They say that you have to seize it, and very end of his life, when he began A lover of life, Hélène loved the carefree years of the that it’s not easy to do so. It’s true that I was adept enough at taking to have a hard time walking and would postwar when she was able to travel and learn foreign advantage of my good luck, but it’s also true that she was always there only come in to work for a few hours languages, working in Spain, England, Morocco, for me.” (from I Did What I Could, a biography of Jean-François Costa every day, he still always had a kind and in Paris. And she loved dancing with her friends at by Françoise-Anne Maillet-Contoz). word for everyone. the Académie Provençale, all the while remaining a hard

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and serious worker. It was by chance is for JEAN-HONORÉ AND JEAN-FRANÇOIS during a visit to Fragonard’s factory with American clients that she made “Wedding luncheon of Jean-François Costa and Hélène Torino on October 23, 1957 Jean-François’ acquaintance, but at Villa Costa in Grasse, in front of Jean-Honoré Fragonard’s painting The Sacrifice of the Rose.” serious and reasonable as she was, she refused his advances for three Our company’s specificity comes from having allied itself with the name years, in the knowledge that he was of the famous painter who, in my great-grandfather’s eyes, symbolized both not fully available and the belief that the refinement of French painting and the industry of this city. Over the years, they were not really meant for one the perfumer’s reputation grew in the shadow of the painter, and so, it was only another. Nevertheless, by virtue of his natural that Jean-François would want to render homage to his favorite artist, insistence, Jean-François convinced whose works he collected throughout his life. her otherwise, and after a few months In 2011, he had the great pleasure of inaugurating the Musée Jean-Honoré of assiduous courtship, he asked for Fragonard in Grasse, which houses the main paintings from his personal her hand in marriage. collection, given to the company to establish a collection devoted to three Lively and cultured, Hélène was very painters from Grasse: Jean-Honoré Fragonard, Marguerite Gérard, charismatic and well-liked. Of a is for INSPIRATION and Jean-Baptiste Mallet. On the 2nd floor of a magnificent 18th century perfect simplicity, she was also elegant residence, the collection includes a hundred works that are supplemented once and distinguished, passionate about It would be impossible to a year by a temporary exhibition of historical paintings and one of contemporary history and literature, with a very sure describe Jean-François’ life photography, thus perpetuating the classical tastes of both Jean-François Costa eye and taste for the art objects that without mentioning his uncle, and that of the Fabre-Luce family that used to own this building, and whose Jean-François would purchase. Georges Fuchs, younger ancestor is none other than Jean Luce, the famous 19th century photographer. One day, when her three daughters brother of Émilie Fuchs, had left the nest, Hélène discovered Jean-François’ mother. Georges her second calling in life: the creation was born at the very end of the of a collection of traditional Provencal 19th century. A young and brave costumes and jewelry from the 17th, infantryman in 1914, he would 18th, and 19th centuries. go on to become one At the end of the war, the Académie of the first aviators in WWI and, unlike most of the other pilots, one Provençale was one of the places of the few to survive this new means of combat. He came back from is for LIBERTY where she had been the happiest, the war intent on making the most of his existence and on living speaking, dancing and living the imaginatively. “My glass may be small, traditions of her native region with Georges had a strong personality, a great sense of friendship, a very but I drink from my own a group of friends who were all as developed sense of values and humor, and exceptional charisma. He glass.” This proverb, one devoted to this culture as she was. very naturally employed his talents to develop Fragonard’s commercial of our father’s favorites, In her wanderings across Provence, relations with prestigious clients, such as the American firm Elizabeth was his slogan, because she rediscovered the pleasure of those Arden, which at the time was directed by its founder. He traveled Jean-François was years as she searched for the most extensively at a time when the journeys were much longer and more fundamentally a free man. beautiful, evocative costumes from complicated than they are today. Even if he occasionally the world of her ancestors. Jean-François was his first nephew, born ten years before his oldest became entangled in his She devoted her energies to building son Patrick. He quickly became fond of this skinny, intelligent boy own chains, he appreciated a very personal collection where each and took him along on all of his travels. being free to do as he object had its own history and life. Jean-François learned much from this exceptional man, and also took pleased in his business affairs It was hard to persuade her to exhibit his inspiration from him. Uncle Georges’ predilection for museums, more than anything, and her collections in a museum, as the eclectic and fanciful collections, and his joie de vivre were surely he was immensely proud is for MALLET fabrics, which had been carefully contagious. At his side, the young Provencal boy discovered the world, of his company’s complete stored in wardrobes, risked suffering indeed the good life, spiced with originality, exotic travels, carefully independence. Today, Jean-Baptiste Mallet (1759-1835) was a from exposure to light and dust. conducted business deals, and solid, warm friendships. They traveled this motto has become our painter born into a middle-class family At the end of the day, however, across the globe together, living out adventures worthy of novels, epic own, because my sisters and from just outside Grasse. His artistic the breadth of her discoveries and the crossings of the Atlantic in search of Elizabeth Arden or to install a I cherish the freedom career took him to Paris, where he was desire to share them convinced her laboratory in Cuba before Fidel Castro came to power, wild evenings we have to develop and widely appreciated as a painter of to lend them to Parfumerie Fragonard at George’s beautiful home in Grasse, called La Renardière, and long direct our firm without fête galante, family, and romantic scenes. to build a museum for them. working days in the family factory, where Georges’ good humor and any constraints other than Though well known in his time and highly Hélène leaves an indelible memory of imagination made the day go by in a flash. always wanting to remain regarded by connoisseurs, Mallet never an exceptional woman whose joie de Today, fifty years after his death, those who knew him remember him independent and different. had the honor of having an exhibition or vivre and taste for all things beautiful with great affection, and everyone has a story or two to tell about him. This independence also lets a book devoted to his work. This was live on in the hearts of her family Georges was a real character, the king of imagination and good cheer, us stay close to our teams, one of the reasons that compelled and friends, and in her museum, but also of kindness, and he always did what he set his mind to, even without whom Fragonard Jean-François to collect his pieces and which gracefully preserves and if, or rather, especially if it wasn’t what people expected him to do! would not have its very exhibit them alongside his more illustrious, furthers the Provencal culture He remains a legendary and very important figure in our family who unique soul of being as contemporary neighbors, Jean-Honoré she cherished so much. inspired a good few of his descendants. personal as it is familial. Fragonard and Marguerite Gérard.

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is for USINE FRAGONARD

“Grasse is the only city in the world where the word usine, which means factory in French, has poetic connotations.” I remember as a child when our father would come home, the smell of the factory announcing his imminent arrival. There is a particular aroma that perfumers call mille fleurs, or “a thousand flowers,” which is the result of the mixing of liquids in production. Every factory in Grasse has its own olfactory signature.

is for ROSELINE is for VOYAGES After art and perfume, traveling was Jean-François’ favorite activity. Already at age 12, Roseline, Jean-François’s younger sister, is the family he had crisscrossed all of France by himself, taking multiple trains to reach England, for matriarch at 97 years young. A mischievous young girl, example, where he would study English. And after the war, he began to accompany his she grew up to be a model wife to Professor Lalanne, Uncle Georges on his business trips, which took him around the world several times. her husband of sixty years, following him as his work took In the 1950s, this meant weeks of travel between searching for raw materials and visiting him here and there, but always loyal to her hometown and clients at all ends of the earth, with some cultural visits always thrown in for good measure, the the Villa Costa, where she still lives, and to the southwest stories of which would inspire us as children to no end. My father had an incredible memory, of France, where she and her husband bought a beautiful remembering absolutely everything: places, museums, the works on exhibit, the people he met, home and vineyard that produces Armagnac. and even the name of every airport he passed through. He was fortunate enough not to die, stands for PERFUMERY During her youth, at the Académie Provençale, missing the flight taken by Marcel Cerdan, whose life ended in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, OBJECTS where she would meet her future sister-in-law Hélène, and lucky enough to see India, Burma, Japan, the Americas, the Caribbean, and the Pacific Islands. Roseline always lent a helping hand, working with Later in life, he organized culturally themed trips around artworks he loved for his family and friends Jean-François Costa began collecting humanitarian aid organizations. She devoted herself across Europe, especially in Italy. his first perfumery objects in 1950. to her family, leaving the reins of the family business In 1968 he inaugurated an exhibition to her brother. Today she is our family’s living memory. in the historic factory in Grasse of the first pieces of his perfume museum, a collection of ancient is for ZIZANIE objects acquired from the estate of the curator of the Tunis Museum. No longer in production, Zizanie was one of Who would have thought at the time the first men’s eau de toilettes. Launched in 1932, that the 21st century would see so is for SISTERS it would become a highly successful, spicy men’s many large companies establishing fragrance after the war, especially in the US, collections and foundations Jean-François and Hélène married its formula listing over four pages of ingredients! as a source of publicity? in October 1957 and had three Major advertising campaigns, all very “French” daughters: Anne, Agnès, and in spirit (Maurice Chevalier sung its praises in English Françoise. Hélène was a marvelous, with his extraordinary French accent), helped increase very cultivated mother who pushed us its popularity. A number of prominent figures wore to study and succeed in our lives so Zizanie, the last of whom was Lord Snowdon, husband that we would never have to depend of Princess Margaret, for whom a special custom on anyone else. This was at the same production continued until his death. time that our father imagined turning his business over to his sons-in-law before finally changing his mind and enlisting us to work alongside him! JEAN-FRANÇOIS COSTA WAS A VISIONARY IN THIS BEAUTIFUL INDUSTRY THAT IS We have been directing the company PERFUMERY. AS BOTH A PERFUMER AND A COLLECTOR, HE MADE FRAGONARD for more than thirty years, each one of us within the sphere of our own INTO A UNIQUE AND UNUSUAL COMPANY, WHICH WE ARE PROUD TO GROW competencies, and this forms the key FURTHER WITHOUT EVER FORGETTING THE CORE VALUES HE IMPARTED TO US: to our compact and to our success. HARD WORK, GENEROSITY, AND IMAGINATION.

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A CROSS-CULTURAL PERSPECTIVE BY TWO COLLECTORS IN LOVE WITH THE 18TH CENTURY

PROVENCE LIFESTYLE IN THE AGE OF FRAGONARD

Exhibition curators: Clément Trouche & Eva Lorenzini Exhibition from June 19th to November 7th, 2021

Coming up in 2021, this exciting new show is an ode to the favorite century of Jean-François Costa and his wife Hélène, echoing this year’s Fragonard tribute at the Musée Jean-Honoré Fragonard, a few meters down the road in Rue Ossola à Grasse.

Left: La Toilette, Composition circa 1775-80, French-style striped dress in ochre yellow, beige and brown taffeta Dresde embroidered chiffon scarf and two-tiered chiffon engageantes.

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18th-century Provence was reputed for its genteel and refined lifestyle. This year, the Musée Provençal du Costume et du Bijou (Provencal Costume & Jewelry Museum), an elegant showcase for the Hélène The exhibition’s Costa collection, is welcoming showcases conjure up images her husband’s decorative arts of genre scenes retracing acquisitions for the first time. the daily life of 18th-century Inspired by French and Provencal society from dawn to dusk, An exceptional encounter between painting from the Age of and evoke series of etchings costumes and decorative arts, Enlightenment, the exhibition’s the exhibition pays homage to showcases conjure up images of or engravings capturing Provence’s legendary lifestyle. In genre scenes retracing the daily the passing hours. Moustiers, Apt and Marseille, life of 18th-century society from numerous workshops and factories dawn to dusk, and evoke series of supplied the local markets with etchings or engravings capturing earthenware and textiles on a par the passing hours. A dressing table with the quality and refinement laden with perfume bottles, powder found in the rest of France. boxes, make-up jars and wig boxes Moreover, Marseille was one of unveils the everyday preening ritual France’s leading trading ports of women at the time. Other scenes and all imported goods crossed – music lessons, reading, meals, Provence before reaching Paris etc. – highlight decorative arts and the royal court. It was hence from the era. The itinerary is a favorite haunt of the local chronological too, crossing the nobility, who were always up to century from the reign of Louis date with the latest trends in the XV to the first years of the Empire capital, despite cultural differences and presenting costumes and influenced by Provence’s radiant, objects belonging to various social sunny climate. At the time, the rural classes from artisans to aristocrats, La Collation, detail Moustiers white plates, populations of Provence developed and nobility to the Third Estate. silver bowl with calissons a taste for floral prints and vibrant Its carefully-curated layout invites from Aix-en-Provence, coffee cup and saucer in mixed clay colors that still continues today. the public to discover the refined from Apt, forks and spoon, fashion of the era, along with silver milk pot, sugar pot and coffee pot, Provence 18th century, the daily activities of women Collection J.-F. Costa. from Arles, Marseille, Aix-en- Provence, Avignon, Toulon and La Collation Grasse. The Provencal Costume Composition circa 1775-80, Pet-en-l’air cotton and linen bodice & Jewelry Museum collection embroidered with multicolored wool features over a thousand period Green poplin piqué and quilted petticoat Embroidered chiffon apron objects and costumes, including Cambrais linen scarf many never-before-seen pieces Linen bonnet with chiffon linen frills, adorned with a silk twill ribbon selected specially for the exhibition. Silk twill and leather mules French indienne printed cotton “visiting” cape in five colors on a white background Provence Lifestyle in the Age of Fragonard Furniture and silverware, Provence Exhibition from June 19th to November 7th, 2021 18th century, J.-F. Costa Collection Musée Provençal du Costume et du Bijou, 2 rue Jean Ossola, Grasse Tel. +33(0)4 93 36 02 07

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EAU DE COLOGNE THE ART a generous splash Created in 1708 by Jean-Marie Farina, of an Italian perfumer living in Cologne, Aqua mirabilis or “admirable water” was one of the first perfumes made by distillation, using a combination of essential oils and pure alcohol. Formulated with citrus fruit and aromatic WEARING plants, eau de Cologne is the lightest of fragrances, alongside “eaux fraîches”. Containing around 5% alcohol, it is synonymous with freshness and often applied PERFUME in the morning. Treat yourself to splash in several areas of the body – you can top it up throughout the day for extra pizazz.

EAU DE TOILETTE the perfect companion

Thanks to advances in distillation techniques in the 19th century, new methods were developed to formulate perfumes and refine the aromatic plant extraction process. Light and comforting, eau de toilette is ideal for everyday use whatever the season. Containing around 10-12% alcohol, it can be applied directly to clothing, hair or as a mist, to leave a deliciously-scented wake behind you... EAU DE PARFUM precision perfume

Sophisticated and intense, eau de parfum is the equivalent of that little black dress perfect for evening events. Thanks to its powerful character and an alcohol content of around 15%, you’ll only need to apply it once a day. Its heady scent makes eau de parfum the perfect winter fragrance. Simply spray a little psst on your neck or scarf and let the scent work its magic as you walk.

PARFUM Is wearing perfume a form of art? Dosing your favorite fragrance a meticulous gesture according to the season, selecting the right eau de toilette for your day, Parfum or extrait de parfum lasts much longer thanks to changing your mood with a spritz of scent, or opting for a parfum an alcohol content of up to 24%. It is the quintessence or eau de parfum are far-from-mundane daily rituals demanding more of perfume and the Rolls-Royce of fragrances. than a dash of know-how... Simply dab a few drops on the inside of your wrist or elbow, your neck or behind your ear and your skin Text Joséphine Pichard / Illustration Alice Giraud becomes the alchemist of a luscious fragrance...

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What’s your relationship truly marvelous flower because Fleur d’Oranger, but Mon Oranger with Grasse? it can represent any stage of life has a completely different formula. A fabulous relationship! I was lucky depending on how it’s used. The former is designed for women enough to attend the perfumery It’s funny because when I like who love the original and want school when it was at the old someone’s perfume and ask them a more feminine version of it. location in Roure. It’s a place what it is, they sometimes turn out The second is less fresh, Daniela packed with history and its story to be wearing my Fleur d’Oranger! with more white flowers: it’s part of is very moving: after the merger, So it really is a “chameleon”: the nostalgic “Tout ce que j’aime” Givaudan gave up the factory a perfume of many facets, (My Favorite Things) collection, Andrier and the beautiful site where appearing different on each person, which pays homage to the flower the school was situated, and while unveiling the essence meadows around Grasse. & FLEUR D'ORANGER both became the property of of their personality. Grasse town council. I have truly wonderful memories of those days, How do you explain The Fragonard editorial team invited despite being a young German the perfume’s success? Louise Andrier to play the part girl in a strange land, far from the Is it an addictive scent? of a journalist interviewing her mother French capital. I spent a year and a And is it particular to our half in the town and I’ve remained on the creation of Fragonard's iconic European culture or do other deeply attached to it. continents love it too? Fleur d’Oranger fragrance. I think it’s truly the perfume’s What’s the story of Fragonard’s ability to change and adapt like Fleur d’Oranger fragrance? a magic potion – its “chameleon” The perfume was initially called character. The scent of orange L’Eau des Aventuriers, but the name blossom is like being wrapped was changed to pay tribute in a rejuvenating natural cocoon to the iconic flower used to make it. – it’s definitely a sort of addiction! I actually created it for my son Étienne Its freshness conjures up cleanliness – he was my inspiration –, but Agnès and sensuality, and exalts the wore it a lot and decided to market senses. It is soothing, tender and it. She didn’t want to change reassuring. I think the love of the original composition at all. orange blossom is particularly Photography Alexandre Isard (Givaudan) French and a little bit Italian Agnès Costa refers to a – but definitely not German. flower that sparks childhood Americans are gradually starting memories. Do you have the to like it too. And tastes are same ties to orange blossom? evolving a lot on other continents. How did you become a “nose”? Givaudan in a few words? of the Fifties and Sixties; Opium Orange blossom isn’t a childhood I arrived in France when They’re the world’s leading aroma and Poison are just two of the great memory for me as we don’t have You’ve created two other I was 15 years old. I passed and fragrance specialist! But names from that legacy. anything like it in Germany. So orange blossom fragrances the Baccalaureate with the little especially, they were born out of a I didn’t come across it as a child, for Fragonard: Fleur d’Oranger bit of French I’d learned and went merger between several firms, in How did you get to know but later on, I loved using it for my Intense and Mon Oranger. on to study philosophy at university. particular Roure. It’s a captivating Maison Fragonard? son. There’s definitely something How do they differ from I gave up my degree when story, because Roure was a pioneer It’s the story of a great friendship nostalgic about the formula that the original Fleur d’Oranger I discovered perfumery and in perfume composition for with Agnès. I met her in New York perfectly reflects the innocence and what inspired you? did two internships in 1988: fashion houses, unlike Guerlain in 1998 thanks to her husband, who of a baby. It’s an ideal scent at The original has as many facets one with Chanel and the other for example, which had its own in- worked at Givaudan. The first time every age: from tender children as there are people in this world, with Robertet. The following year, house perfumer. Givaudan has an I saw her was at an art show and to innocent young girls and mature while the other two are more I was awarded a place at the Roure extraordinary history thanks to the we were wearing the same shoes... women – not forgetting men specifically for women. Intense Perfumery School... Balmain and Courrèges perfumes We’ve been inseparable ever since. of course! Orange blossom is a is a more powerful version of

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THE ASTONISHING STORY OF GRASSE

LEA THER & PER FU ME

Text Charlotte Urbain

From tanner to perfumer, or how Grasse became a cradle of perfumery know-how... A short tale spanning several centuries of French history that has forged the town's reputation today. Ancient engraving by Larmessin Nicolas II, Habit de parfumeur (Perfume seller), 1695. 122 123 CELEBRATE CELEBRATE

Grasse’s exceptional geographical location has endowed the region Grasse, the town of leather with a particularly pleasant climate, tanning and fragrant perfect for nurturing many species flowers, threw itself of flowers and aromatic plants. wholeheartedly into Bathed in generous southern sunshine, Mediterranean warmth, producing perfumed cool nights due to altitude and leathers. abundant rivers, the town blossomed from the Middle Ages onwards.

A thriving tanning industry developed in Grasse in the 15th century, earning the town Engraving of a Grasse tannery, European renown. Grasse leather in Encyclopedia, or a Systematic Dictionary of the Sciences, Arts and Crafts, was famed for its quality and the by Diderot and d'Alembert, 1762. green tinge obtained by steeping it in myrtle. In circa 1560, vast fields of fragrant jasmine were began, gradually striking up In order to get rid of the smell Glove Makers and Perfumers. planted in the area and flourished trade with the towns of Genoa given off by animal skins, the The Grasse chapter, comprising thanks to its mild climate. Soon then Pisa... However, the French leather had to be thoroughly twenty-one members, adopted after, the surrounding landscapes Queen’s visit to Grasse does not rinsed then plunged into a bath specific statutes in 1724. Louis XIV were planted with May rose (Rosa appear on official records. scented with essences. Once the continued to issue Master Glove centifolia), tuberose and lavender. gloves were finished, the next step Maker and Perfumer licenses An Italian named Tombarelli was the “mise en fleurs”, which in 1651. Perfumery gradually After the attachment of Provence may also have played a role in consisted of superimposing gloves became the exclusive business to the kingdom of France, the the town’s evolution. Taking and layers of flowers in a sealed of the Grasse factories, then in exquisite local leather began to advantage of the Florentine box. This operation had to be 1759, the Corporation of Master win the favors of the court. While fashion for perfumed leather, he is repeated on average every two Perfumers became independent visiting Grasse, Catherine de said to have turned Grasse from hours for a week. The inside of from that of the Glove Makers. Medici – besotted with the fashion a tanning town into a perfumery the gloves was then powdered to The town’s continuing renown for perfumed gloves used to mask town... However, this theory ensure any remaining unpleasant was crowned in 2018, when the the odor of tanned leather, gifted remains questionable in that odors were eliminated and make ancient perfumery know-how of to her by a Grasse tanner –, is other reputed tanning towns did them easier to slip on. the Pays de Grasse became part said to have recommended the not follow suit and create similar Grasse, the town of leather of UNESCO intangible heritage. use of the perfuming techniques perfumers’ guilds. Wherever tanning and fragrant flowers, Pair of gloves, early 17th century, in vogue in Florence. The idea the truth lies, perfuming gloves threw itself wholeheartedly into leather, silk and metal thread, Metropolitan Museum of Art (N°28.220.1, .2), of perfuming gloves indeed turned out to be a particularly producing perfumed leathers. New York originated in Italy: in the late difficult task. After repeated Growing demand for the products, 15th century, Pompeo Frangipani attempts, the Parisian glove backed by the presence of the invented an almond-based maker and perfumer Simon Montpellier Faculty of Pharmacy, perfume designed to mask strong Barbe finally managed to obtain further kindled the town’s rise to odors. And that, as legend tells, is “gloves that have the smell of a prosperity. In 1614, Louis XIII how the town’s perfume industry natural flower” in 1699. created the Corporation of Master

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A NOSE in

OUR

BUSINESS! Interview by Charlottte Urbain - Photography Givaudan

A perfumer with Swiss firm Givaudan, Isabelle Abram is the "master nose" behind the familiar fragrances of our everyday lives. She is the olfactory magician of our bathroom products, whether shampoos, creams or hair dyes. Welcome to some of the secrets Were you already specialized of this passionate woman in the wings. in a particular area? Givaudan trains its perfumers according to its current How did you become Carles (editor’s note: founder and requirements. I was lucky enough a perfumer? first director, in 1946, of the Roure to join the beauty care perfumers’ I was born in Grasse, in the perfumery school in Grasse, now team. I’ve always loved beauty cradle of perfumery. I’ve always the Givaudan Perfumery School products and been very sensitive been drawn to nature and loved in Argenteuil). Then, we began to the scent of creams and soaps, exploring the scents, plants, soil creating harmonies and learning as well as the pleasure they and flowers in my parents’ and how raw materials combine and procure and how they spark our grandparents’ gardens as a little interact to strike up a genuine imagination. They represent the girl. I won a place at the Givaudan conversation. I’ve been working olfactory memory of our intimate Perfumery School after several at Givaudan’s Creative Center in moments. Beauty care is a unique internships at designer houses, Argenteuil for twenty years now. and wonderful world that allows where I discovered the job of It brings together many perfumers me to reach out to people and perfumer. The course lasted three specialized in consumer products, embellish their daily lives. I’ve years at the time. In the first year, who develop unique fragrances for always been drawn to the notions we learned about raw materials laundry, home and beauty products. of sharing and closeness and they using the method invented by Jean It’s one of the world’s largest teams. continue to inspire me today.

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What’s the difference between from one continent to the next. How long have we been What are the current trends? with locals, who share their beauty back, when we were asked to create a fine fragrance perfumer Once the project team perfuming our beauty products? Perfume trends – like clothing rituals with us and tell us how they a perfume evoking the very-familiar and beauty care perfumer? is in place, we can start writing For thousands of years! Products fashions – have evolved faster perceive our perfume. scent of Nivea cream. The project There aren’t any major the formula. It’s then sent used for hygiene and beauty and faster in recent decades. For involved a full immersion in the differences. To me, the dynamic to our development laboratory. have always been perfumed. example, shampoo, which was Aside from the cultural and brand and minute study of every is the same – a perfumer is a Samples arrive on my desk, Eau de toilette literally used to be mostly floral-scented, now tends sociological factors influencing step of product perception, from creator. Fine fragrance perfumers incorporated in a base. Depending perfume poured into water and to be fruity, with notes of melon, your creative process, do you opening the pot to applying the are considered as artists, whereas on the type of product (shampoo, used as a toiletry product, either pear, strawberry or coconut. In also have to factor in climate? cream. To truly grasp the scent of we work more like designers. shower gel, cream, deodorant, in a washbasin or bath. Perfumes recent years, we’ve especially seen Temperature, climate and water the cream, the key was to decode The idea of combining artistic etc.), I receive an application used to be considered as medicinal: the emergence of sweet gourmand quality have a considerable impact the influence of its base, with its creation, technical prowess and in the shape of a glass pot, spray for example, aromatic vinegars or notes, as in the world of fine in perfumery and can completely unique texture and scent. It took business specifications appeals or other. I then assess pomanders were said to protect perfumery. Today’s products are alter a scent. Volatile molecules a huge amount of work to create to me. In a way we’re artisans, the preparation, to get the best from disease. Everything changed increasingly trending towards can be exacerbated by heat and a perfume that embodied the because we make perfumes possible vision of what with Pasteur and the discovery of powerful gourmand fragrances, ambient humidity and the perfume sensuality of the cream – it’s a great for everyday products. the consumer will actually be using. bacteria and people understood which would have been difficult to can change according to the type example of the complexity of the I initially assess the samples that perfume alone wasn’t enough imagine just fifteen years back. of water used. You have to have beauty care perfumer’s task. What’s your typical day on my own. Once I’m satisfied, to heal. Perfume took on new experienced it to really grasp the The products and brands we work and how do you work? I liaise with the assessor to make connotations of pleasure and beauty, How do you adapt to various phenomenon. The same scent with are anchored in our everyday Perfumers work on several sure the perfume is properly while remaining synonymous international markets? can be perceived very differently lives. They are an intrinsic part development projects at once. calibrated. Then the customer with hygiene and cleanliness. It’s Consumer expectations and depending on whether you smell of our daily rituals and intimate The requests we receive from gives us their opinion. Sometimes, also interesting to note that in the product uses can vary from one it here or elsewhere. I remember moments, so they need to fulfil our customers vary a lot, there’s a lot of back-and-forthing late 19th century, the best-selling country to another. We adapt to a scent that was described as the consumer’s desire for pleasure so you have to know how to adapt before we reach the final goal. products of the finest perfumery each tendency and culture – that’s very powerful – a fruity, fairly and enjoyment. We have to take to each need and compose an Some projects are short, houses were creams and soaps, what makes perfume creation even green melon fragrance with all these factors into account, and olfactory story that fits with the but others can take months long before alcohol-based perfumes more exciting! For example, the notes of “cucumber skin” - being that’s what makes my job so special customer’s desires, brand and and even years... dominated the luxury market. Indian population mainly uses interpreted elsewhere by the same and captivating. identity – their DNA as it were. soap bars for daily hygiene. So people as a translucent and quite I’m lucky to be part of a great What are your challenges Do we know anything their beauty products generally delicate floral fragrance with fruity support team that assists us in as a beauty care perfumer? about past trends? have soapy fragrances. As a result, facets. The olfactory impression winning future perfume contracts. Aside from the brand / end The first known perfumes were very when we develop a perfume for an changed completely with Our sales people ensure the use / budget and regulatory natural and fairly simple blends, Indian beauty product, we try to the location, due to the different specifications drawn up by the constraints, the main aim sometimes resembling Eau de incorporate the country’s specific climate and environment. customer are honored. We have of each development project Cologne. For example, Nivea cream, vision of cleanliness so the end what we call assessors too. They’re is to anticipate interactions which recently celebrated its 100th user identifies with the perfume What roles do brands our “olfactory guides” for each between our perfume and its anniversary, is based on a very fresh and enjoys using it. Immersing and identities play in project; they have extensive market intended base, while and fragrant citrus scent combined yourself in a new culture is an your profession? knowledge and are there to help incorporating the notion of with a floral heart. absolutely fascinating experience We focus entirely on each brand assess our creations and build the enjoyment of use. We also Chemical prowess and synthetic – and very moving too. And of and work hand in hand with and perfume. We’re also supported by take raw material stability into materials played their part from course, customs are completely for the customer. It’s very important the marketing teams who inform us account, both individually and the late 19th century onwards. different from one country to to get to know them, absorb their of the latest trends collectively. The challenge Molecules such as coumarin, another. It’s a genuine sociological history and discover their origins, in various market segments, is to find the best possible heliotropin and vanillin were born and anthropological experiment. culture and values, so we can even beyond perfumery; balance between the perfume, at the time and – along with many At Givaudan, we’re lucky to be able understand their world and what they focus on the iconic fragrances the base and the active others – continue to play a major to make home visits: when we travel they want to convey. I had a really of different cultures, which vary ingredients. role in perfumery today. we’re sometimes invited to stay interesting challenge a little while

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A perfume for every zodiac sign! Fragonard played a little game with different perfumes and personalities to unveil your olfactory zodiac sign… Each element has its favorite scent families, while each sign has its own unique color and realm. Welcome to a deep dive into the perfume horoscope! CANCER PISCES June 22-July22 February 19-March 20 Texte Louise Andrier / Illustrations Andréa Ménard Tenacious, sensitive, Diamant Patchouli Eau de Hongrie An emotive, sensitive introverted A jewel of a thousand Woody and intense, Inspired by the original and inspired daydreamer, and sometimes faces, Diamant Patchouli is 14th-century men’s you seek gentle perfectly mirrors a distillation of fragrance, Eau de nostalgic for your and reassuring fragrances childhood, you seek your maverick spirit. leaves and bitter Hongrie is sober and Its dazzling and orange, ginger, rose, authentic. Its deep that are both mysterious TAURUS CAPRICORN gentleness. Gourmet, intense wake exhales musk and tonka harmonies of lavender, and romantic. April 21-May 20 December 22-January 20 powdery scents draw notes of orange, rose, bean. Powerful and galbanum, cistus and jasmine, patchouli, persistent, it is your amber mirror your Scents evoking escapism, you like a magnet musk and caramel. perfect partner. perfectionist nature. Fervent, passionate, Patient, persevering, and underline exoticism and sensuality sensual and cautious and devoted your inner tenderness. fit you like a glove. pleasure-seeking, to self-improvement your perfume resembles and serving others, a sensual kiss EARTH your perfume is mature and pays homage Rêve Indien and evokes mineral Belle de Nuit to your hedonistic nature. Earth signs appreciate balance Splendid and and mountain landscapes. Warm and exotic with and structure. Country, flowery, woody, It is as balanced as original, SCORPIO its notes of you are reasonable. Belle de Nuit October 23-November22 bergamot, rose, aromatic, fruity and musky fragrances wraps you in iris, amber are your best allies. mirabilis, ylang- and vanilla, Rêve Rose Ambre Fragonard ylang, violet, A persistent, passionate, creative maverick, Indien is an ode geranium, rose Natural and Floral and colorful, you are particularly fond of gourmet to travel and elegant, Rose and plum. distant climes. our eponymous As lush and and even heady fragrances. Ambre combines fragrance is perfect A languid and bergamot, deep as very-feminine for the Capricorn the night itself... Your perfume must be as intense as your personality. blackcurrant, rose, woman, marrying perfume. almond, patchouli, tangerine, petit grain, amber and vanilla. hyacinth, jasmine, A sensual elixir honeysuckle, wood, reminiscent of the amber and musk. Far East, it suits you to a T. VIRGO August 23-September 22 Beau de Provence Île d’Amour Meticulous, skilled and well-organized, Verveine Notes of fig, Mon Immortelle A voyage filled you love discreet, light, flowery and aromatic Harmonious bergamot, basil, with promises, Radiant and Verveine surrounds ylang-ylang, Île d’Amour unforgettable, fragrances reminiscent of harvest time. itself with notes sandalwood transports you Mon Immortelle of grapefruit, and vetiver go to a faraway makes a lasting jasmine and hand in hand in land of rose, impression with its ylang-ylang. this Provence- osmanthus, notes of bergamot, A light and fragrant inspired fragrance lilac, lily of the cardamom, eau de toilette reminiscent to valley, musk and everlasting, jasmine, perfect for sunny summer amber. A gentle cedar and musk. nature-loving you. holidays. and reassuring The ideal partner fragrance. to your sentimental WATER personality. Water signs love to escape into their rich inner world F ! Suivez-Moi Fleur d’Oranger Eau du Bonheur Toujours Fidèle Beau Gosse and boundless imagination. Exhaling notes Your masculine Fleur d’Oranger is Light and joyful, Disciplined, This elegant Désert of black pepper, allure is at a balanced, silky Eau du Bonheur orderly and perfume for men A tempting Round, gentle, voluptuous, gourmet, verbena, its height with and radiant exhales refreshing reasonable, is your ideal mate. blend of exotic, sensual and powdery nutmeg, cedar and this eau de fragrance combining notes of bergamot, the Virgo man A blend of fresh, tangerine, patchouli, toilette redolent neroli, bergamot, bitter orange, will easily recognize light notes, it leaves sage, saffron, fragrances are your friends. F ! eau de toilette with sensual jasmine and musk orange blossom, himself in this eau delicious marine tobacco, tonka for men is an notes of to form a gentle maté, sandalwood de toilette blending scents combined bean and oud, ode to your bergamot, mint, perfume echoing and cedar. neroli, green apple, with cardamom, Désert is an surprising cedar, incense, the Virgo’s It promises rosemary, thyme, nutmeg, musk ideal scent for personality. patchouli attachment to enchant cedarwood and patchouli men with and vetiver. to their family roots. and soothe. and vanilla. in its wake. a tender heart.

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ARIES SAGITTARIUS GEMINI AQUARIUS March 21-April 20 November 23-December 21 May 21-June 21 January 21-February 18

Independent, courageous Independent and always A lover of human An ode to fraternity, and energetic, you love on the move, you are contact with great independence perfumes that assert Émilie Mon Lys Eau du Séducteur a born nomad. Exoticism, communication skills, and cooperation, your uniqueness. The very-feminine Romantic and noble, Your sign’s taste travel and sunny climes your kind, outgoing the Aquarius is an To you, perfume Émilie echoes the Mon Lys offers up for sensual pleasures inspire you and woody nature draws you to original character is a weapon generosity of the Leo. distinguished notes instinctively guides essences are your friend. Floral, with notes of clementine, lily you to the spicy Eau light, floral fragrances AIR who loves unique, of seduction of rose, jasmine, violet, flower, ylang-ylang du Séducteur for men, that conjure up old woody, vanilla-scented par excellence... sandalwood and amber, and musk. Its floral with its ornamental memories, such Resolutely outgoing, and juicy perfumes. it underlines your sign’s aldehydes make it harmony of citrus fruit, self-controlled and a genuine little jewel... nutmeg, tonka bean as white flowers Air signs are always aristocratic nature. and cedar. and sun-laden fruit. where the action is. You are seduced by clean, light, citrus, aromatic, Grain de Soleil Cœur de Soleil floral, floral chypre, tuberose Vanille Inspired by sunshine Dazzling Belle and lavender fragrances. Deliciously scented and warm, LEO Cœur de Soleil de Soleil with vanilla, sandy beaches, July 23-August 22 mirrors your A genuine ode this floral and your sign is sure to exotic character to your sunny gourmet eau de love Grain de Soleil: to perfection. Its nature,Belle de toilette promises a concentrate of iris, The epitome of joie de vivre, ambition notes of tangerine, Soleil wraps to enchant you. orange blossom, and elevation, the sometimes-proud blackcurrant, rose you in a sweet Jasmine, tiaré flower, cinnamon absolute, amber caress. You vanilla absolute, and vanilla. Leo craves jewel-like ornamental perfumes and cedar spark love its notes musk and caramel that adorn and crown your powerful, your enthusiasm. of citrus fruit, marry to form tiaré, vetiver and a luscious union. noble personality. benzoin mixed with scents of the sea. LIBRA September 23-October 22 Encens - Étoile Frivole Murmure Fève tonka Étoile will delight Redolent with An ambassador of balance, justice and moderation, Elegant and Stand out in a your generous tangerine, you have a preference for harmonious, mysterious, crowd thanks to heart and optimistic bergamot, jasmine, Murmure Encens - nature with its notes peony, iris and gourmet fragrances. Constantly seeking serenity, celebrates your Fève Tonka with of apple, ginger, musk, Frivole your heart melts for melodious scents. unique character its notes of rose lily of the valley, is synonymous with notes and incense. jasmine, amber with happiness. of bergamot, A bewitching and musk. The ideal scent ylang-ylang, fragrance An enchanting for your youthful lily of the valley, synonymous with invitation to travel. and seductive angelica, musk self-confidence. personality. and wood. FIRE Fire signs love to stay active Mon Poivre and assert their personality. A virile and Homme Élégant daring scent, Fragrances based on floral chypre, Free-willed Ma Bergamote L’Aventurier Mon Poivre and optimistic, A gentle mix of Lune de Miel Pivoine Valentin Free, intrepid and exhales natural spices, citrus, oriental spices the Sagittarius man’s bergamot, petit An ideal marriage Harmonious Pivoine With its refreshing independent, this essences and oriental woods are loyalty to woody grain bitter orange, of blackberry, suits your well-balanced and masculine perfume is an ode of black pepper, essences is embodied jasmine and amber, tuberose, sandalwood, sign to perfection. notes of bergamot, to your personality. cedarwood your best allies. by Homme Élégant Ma Bergamote musk and vanilla, Combining rhubarb, lemon, cardamom, Lemon, pink berries, and patchouli. with its notes brings together the irresistible and syringa, peony, nutmeg, cedar, oak patchouli, vetiver, A mysterious of cardamom, the finest rounded scent iris, musk and amber, moss, vetiver and leather and musk perfume simply mint, incense, cedar, sources of your of Lune de Miel it is a genuine sandalwood, it is the unite in this made for iris, patchouli inspiration as a reminds you of symphony perfect fragrance for aromatic, virile and the Aries man... and vetiver. nature-loving man. a delicious dream. in a bottle. you, the genteel lover. resolutely-unique elixir.

132 133 DISCOVER DISCOVER IMPRESSIONS OF CAMARGUE BY JEAN HUÈGES, FRAGONARD CREATIVE DIRECTOR Photography Olivier Capp, Patrick Trouche

ou need to be humble when you’re talking about Camargue. It’s a place I know very little about, a place where tradition never seems to have given way to folklore and where the sky isn’t always picture-postcard azure-blue... YYou really have to let go to be able to capture Camargue’s palette of sensations, conjure up images of its landscapes and evoke the mistral wind rustling in its reeds.

So I chose to talk about it through some of the childhood memories that resurfaced while I was on a trip to this land of solitude and silence. Once upon a time, schoolchildren were asked to draw the rivers of France. The Rhône was my favorite, because it’s relatively straight and especially because it ends with a funny triangle called a delta. It was my Bermuda Triangle, inhabited by legends, white horses, black bulls and pink flamingos.

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SAINT SARAH, MOTHER OF THE GYPSIES

Not to be confused with the Spanish fighting bull, the Camargue bull has raised horns shaped like a lyre. It conjures up images of Apis, the Greek name of a sacred Egyptian bull and a symbol of fertility, sexual power and physical strength, which reminds me that Egypt was also the birthplace of the servant Sarah, the faithful companion of Mary Magdalene, Mary Salome and Mary Jacob: the Three Marys. Abandoned at sea off the

Panoramic view of coast of Palestine in a boat without sails or oars, a fortuitous wind washed Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer them up on the shores of Camargue. I was fascinated by this story as a from the top of its fortified church. child. Especially as Martha, who was also in the boat, went on to slay the Tarasque, a mythical beast that devoured the inhabitants of Tarascon! HISTORIC LANDSCAPES AND ICONIC FAUNA Built in the 11th and 12th centuries, the fortress-like Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer church protected the local populations from pirates. Built near the One morning, as I found myself facing the ramparts of Aigues-Mortes, mouth of the Petit-Rhône river, its majestic keep gazes out over the I thought back to an illustration in my history book: that of Saint Louis’s surrounding scenery. Inside, the impressive collection of ex-votos is an triumphant departure to the Far East and death from typhus at the th absolute marvel. And as for Saint Sarah, also called “Sara the Black”, she gateway to Tunis on August 25 , 1270. Although the memory of Louis IX is still worshipped by the Gypsy community and the subject of popular Salin-de-Giraud is closely tied to this walled town, the Matafère tower was built before he saltmarshes, celebrations. There are many legends about her: one of them claims that tinted pink by was crowned by Charlemagne to provide protection for the salt merchants she resembled an Indian goddess and the Gypsies adore her because they Dunaliella salina algae. and fishermen who had inhabited the region since Antiquity. Access to also have Indian origins. the sea became easier in the 15th century when a port was built just next Pink flamingos, protected in France to Tour de Constance tower. The view from the top of the tower is truly since April 1st, 1981. beautiful.

On my way again to Salin-de-Giraud… A source of wealth from time immemorial, the salt mountains somewhat resemble old coal tips as dusk falls. I must confess I’m fascinated by this site where salt reigns; it’s probably also out of respect for the old laborers from Greece, a country dear to my heart. In the last century, sponge fishermen from the island of Kalymnos came here to flee poverty. Can you imagine anything stranger than this little village built from scratch on the drawings of a mining town in northern France, complete with austere, cookie-cutter constructions? This pioneering proletarian project is now a monument to 20th-century working-class France. As I cross it today, its movie-like decor loaded with history fires up my imagination and I can almost hear the sound of bouzoukis accompanying dances in front of the orthodox church on festive days, now muffled forever by the evening wind...

Like a magic potion taken from an ancient book of spells, the Dunaliella salina – the saltmarsh algae – tints the saltmarshes with pink at certain times of the year. It is eaten by a tiny little variety of prawn, savored in turn by pink flamingos which, over the years, owe the color of their feathers to it.

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THE MYTHS AND LEGENDS OF “FAR WEST” CAMARGUE

The somber bull and white horse stand shoulder to shoulder by day and by night. Crin-Blanc (White Mane) was one of the first movies I ever saw. Filmed in the Fifties by Albert Lamorisse, it gave many children their first glimpse of Camargue – and I’m sure it made a few of them cry! A symbol of freedom, the nonchalant silhouette of the Camargue horse can be seen everywhere here. It’s a rustic breed, well-armed to tackle the burning summer sunshine and winter frost. If you’re out strolling along a lane, you can shake a bag of grain to coax them over and get a glimpse into their eyes. How nice it would be to be able to befriend them. As you stand on this wild delta, you can’t help but dream of the Far West...

The legendary old ranch owner Folco de Baroncelli attracted movie crews here in 1910, contributing to the rise to fame of the local Camargue cowboys. But I still think the name gardian is nobler – these riders, whose only protection consists of fitted pants and a Provencal printed shirt, are as proud as knights in shining armor. And they are all CELEBRATIONS AND QUEENS OF A CULTURE part of the ancient Confrérie des Gardians brotherhood, founded in 1512. They really are a sight to behold as they drive the bulls from their The annual Fête des Gardians celebration is one of the highlights of the grazing grounds to the pens of the Arles arena for the Course à la Camargue calendar: on May 1st, hundreds of riders dressed in festive cocarde rosette contest. On that day, raseteurs all dressed in white clothes get together in the streets of Arles, the capital of Camargue, and confront the bulls, showing courage, virility and respect in the face over a thousand women from throughout the Arles area dress up in their of their black bovine opponents. finest traditional costumes to pay tribute to them. The heart of some of the young girls beats very fast that day, because they know one of them will be crowned as the Queen of Arles for next three years. The tradition dates back to 1930 and celebrated the centenary of the birth of Provencal poet Frédéric Mistral. I was lucky enough to have dinner with Naïs Lesbros, the current holder of the prestigious title. Being the Queen of Arles means you have to be able to converse in Provencal dialect and ride a horse, but you also have almost as many yearly engagements as a British royal... There’s an undeniable “dynastic” aspect to it. The lucky chosen one must be of Trouche ©Patrick French nationality too, and born in Arles or have parents originating from the Arles area. The heiress to a long line of twenty-two Queens of Arles, Naïs had to have the historic, literary, artistic and architectural knowledge necessary to fly the flag of the culture and traditions of Arles and its vicinity. The word devotion could aptly describe the young woman’s attachment to her mission as an ambassadress for the traditions, history and heritage of Provence. Her love for the traditional costume of Arles seems limitless - and she wears it royally. It appears to me to be the fruit of great knowledge of textiles and dress codes, and the work of patient, agile hands. Not to mention financial sacrifices.

Above As I’m no specialist, I won’t even attempt to describe the various pieces of Naïs Lesbros, 23rd Queen of Arles, the costume and how they’ve evolved over the years, but what touched me with kind permission of Festiv’Arles. about Naïs was her desire to wear it and adapt it to every occasion, from a Left Camargue horse. simple printed cotton dress for rural celebrations to precious embroidered Camargue bulls with silks for days demanding pomp and splendor. their lyre-shaped raised horns.

Pont aux Lions This majestic construction celebrated the arrival of the railroad in Arles. The carved lions are part of the original fixed bridge, which replaced the old ferry services across the Rhône river.

AN ARCHITECTURAL STROLL ROMAN BEAUTY Streets of Arles lined THROUGH BEAUTIFUL ARLES with architectural wonders. The Roman amphitheater, Roman theatre and Baths of Constantine I’ve always said to myself that if Jacques Demy hadn’t left us so all stand witness to the magnificence of Arles. At the Alyscamps – the prematurely, maybe one day he would have chosen the streets of the remains of an outdoor cemetery – mausoleums and sarcophagi shaded Camargue capital as the backdrop for a musical. Everything about this by trees offer the most romantic walk imaginable. town enchants me and I love imagining what The Young Ladies of Arles Touring Arles is like poring over the pages of an architecture book. After would have looked like, as a follow-up to Demy’s famous movie The Young the Roman era, the Middle Ages offered the town the Palais des Podestats, Ladies of Rochefort. Saint-Trophime cathedral and cloister, Tour de Roland tower and the

amphitheater towers. Above A town of art of light, Arles unveils an extraordinarily-diverse palette of The Sainte-Luce commandery, which housed the Knights Templar Arles Amphitheatre facades. Smiling and humble abodes, noble mansions and palaces seem This arena was built under the reign then the Knights of the Order of Malta, has a varied architecture. A of Domitian by an ancient Roman colony to have rubbed shoulders here since the beginning of time, alongside and is the largest monument fine example of a Provencal medieval abode, its flamboyant gate and still in existence from the era. majestic Roman ruins. northern facade dating from the late 15th century are characteristic of the Renaissance era in Arles. The building itself – the former grand priory of the Order of Malta – was erected in the same era. Purchased in 1796 by Left Set on the Camino de Santiago, the painter Jacques Réattu, who lived and worked there, it now harbors this is one of Provence’s largest a museum named after the artist and is one of the town’s must-see sights. medieval constructions.

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BETWEEN THE AGES, A HAPPY ARCHITECTURAL ALLIANCE

The Tour de l’Horloge clock tower cleverly ties in the Renaissance period with one of the town’s finest pieces of Classical architecture: the Hôtel de Ville, or town hall. Completed in 1676, its barrel-vaulted lobby is a marvelously-audacious technical feat. The Hôtel Quiqueran de Beaujeu, whose architecture is inspired by Parisian mansions, Hôtel de Divonne and Hôtel de Grille, testify to the prosperity of Arles between the 17th and 18th centuries. In the 19th century, Provencal poet Frédéric Mistral founded the Museon Arlaten museum inside a sumptuous monument erected in the late 15th century and reworked in the 18th century. This ode to everyday life in Provence from the 18th century to current day is simply charming. And especially, don’t miss a visit to the ancient chapel of the Jesuit College, sheltering a monumental wooden altarpiece and marble altar. IN THE 21ST CENTURY, THE FUTURE IS BEING BUILT In the 19th century, the railroad prolonged its service to Arles, providing AND THE PAST CONTINUES TO UNFOLD.... work for part of the population who began to lose interest in the Rhône river. I don’t know if Van Gogh used the railroad to travel to Arles in The town is now home to the Luma Arles and its twisting tower of early 1888. Dazzled by the colors and light of the South of France, it was glittering aluminum tiles designed with brio by Frank Gehry, while the during his fourteen-month stay here that he created the paintings and Rhône river continues to deliver up ancient treasures and archaeological drawings that now crown the renown of international museums. digs have unearthed the remains of a Roman villa dated 1 BC on the site of the Trinquetaille glass factory, complete with incredibly luxurious The 20th century saw the classification of Arles’ historic center as part Pompeii-style painted decors, unique in France. The discovery of the of UNESCO World Heritage and creation of the Musée de l’Arles Antique chapel of the Paleo Christian Basilica during refurbishment work on the archeology museum. The natural treasures of the Rhône Delta are now Saint-Césaire enclosure is a little miracle too. protected by the 37,000-acre Camargue reserve, set up in 1927. Between 1940 and 1960, the protection was extended to neighboring territories, Arles in every season! then to smaller plots in the Seventies and Eighties. I have moving memories Arles is a great place to visit throughout the year and even though the of Christian Lacroix’s first haute couture show, which paid homage to Arles famous International Photography Festival and ferias are high points,

Barrel-vaulted lobby traditional costume – but with a clever twist. Christian was born locally I can’t recommend it enough in spring and autumn too. Take all the of the Town Hall. and helped spread the town’s fame throughout the world. Arles is set to time you need to savor, explore, marvel and, especially, lap up the lilting

become a fashionable destination: our belle parisienne women love Souleiado’s southern accent of the men and women who form the beating heart of The Luma tower Entrance to the Museon Arlaten. Provencal prints and the Feria has definitely become the place to be! this sensational town. by architect Frank Gehry.

142 143 FRAGONARD FACTORIES Grasse Paris AND MUSEUMS Fragonard Parfums Fragonard Rive Gauche 2 rue Jean Ossola 196 bd Saint-Germain 06130 Grasse 75007 Paris Grasse Ph: +33 (0)4 93 36 91 42 Ph: +33 (0)1 42 84 12 12 L’Usine historique 20 bd Fragonard Petit Fragonard Fragonard Haussmann 06130 Grasse 10 rue Jean Ossola 5 rue Boudreau Ph: +33 (0)4 93 36 44 65 06130 Grasse 75009 Paris Ph: +33 (0)4 93 36 51 51 Ph: +33 (0)1 40 06 10 10 La Fabrique des fleurs Les 4 chemins - 17 route de Cannes Cannes Fragonard Bercy Village 06130 Grasse 103 rue d’Antibes Chai n°13, cour St Emilion Ph: +33 (0)4 93 77 94 30 06400 Cannes Ph: +33 (0)1 43 43 41 41 Ph: +33 (0)4 93 38 30 00 Le Musée Provençal du Costume Fragonard Montmartre et du Bijou 11 rue du Docteur Pierre Gazagnaire 1 bis rue Tardieu 2 rue Jean Ossola 06400 Cannes 75018 Paris 06130 Grasse Ph: + 33 (0)4 93 99 73 31 Ph: +33 (0)1 42 23 03 03 Ph: +33 (0)4 93 36 91 42 Eze-Village Milan Le Musée Jean-Honoré Fragonard 7 avenue du Jardin Exotique Via Solferino 2 14 rue Jean Ossola 06360 Eze-Village 20122 Milan 06130 Grasse Ph: +33 (0)4 93 41 83 36 Italie Ph: +33 (0)4 93 36 02 07 Ph: +39 (0)2 72 09 52 04 2 place de la Colette Eze-Village 06360 Eze-Village Arles (opening 2021) L’Usine Laboratoire Ph: +33 (0)4 93 98 21 50 La Maison Fragonard 158 avenue de Verdun 7/9 rue du Palais 06360 Eze Village Nice 13200 Arles Ph: +33 (0)4 93 41 05 05 11 cours Saleya 06300 Nice Paris Ph: +33 (0)4 93 80 33 71 Le Musée du Parfum Opéra 3-5 square Louis Jouvet Saint-Paul de Vence AIRPORTS 75009 Paris Chemin Sainte-Claire & DEPARTMENT STORES Ph: + 33 (0)1 40 06 10 09 06570 Saint-Paul de Vence Ph: +33 (0)4 93 58 58 58 Le Musée du Parfum Scribe Fragonard Stores 9 rue Scribe Marseille Nice Côte d’Azur Airport 75009 Paris Les Voûtes de la Major Terminal 2 Ph: + 33 (0)1 47 42 04 56 20 quai de la Tourette Ph: +33 (0)4 83 76 29 03 13002 Marseille Le Musée du Parfum Capucines Ph: +33 (0)4 91 45 35 25 Fragonard Corners 39 bd des Capucines Roissy-Charles de Gaulle Airport 75002 Paris Avignon Terminals AC, E, F Ph: + 33 (0)1 42 60 37 14 20 rue Saint-Agricol 84000 Avignon Marseille Provence Airport Ph: +33 (0)4 90 82 07 07 Terminals 1 and 2

Saint Tropez La Samaritaine FRAGONARD 7 place Croix de Fer 9 rue de la Monnaie STORES 83990 Saint Tropez 75001 Paris Ph: +33 (0)4 94 56 15 15

Grasse Paris Fragonard Maison Fragonard Saint-Honoré 2 rue Amiral de Grasse 207 rue Saint-Honoré www.fragonard.com 06130 Grasse 75001 Paris usines-parfum.fragonard.com Ph: +33 (0)4 93 40 12 04 Ph: +33 (0)1 47 03 07 07 musée-parfum-paris.fragonard.com

Fragonard Confidentiel Fragonard Carrousel du Louvre Recycle paper 99 rue de Rivoli with Fragonard 3/5 rue Jean Ossola and Ecofolio. 06130 Grasse 75001 Paris Ph: +33 (0)4 93 36 40 62 Ph: +33 (0)1 42 96 96 96 Fragonard Hommes Fragonard Marais 3/5 rue Jean Ossola 51 rue des Francs Bourgeois 06130 Grasse 75004 Paris 10-31-2254 / Certiﬁé PEFC / pefc-france.org Ph: +33 (0)4 93 36 40 62 Ph: +33 (0)1 44 78 01 32 MAGAZINE FRAGONARD ANGLAIS 2021 MAGAZINE FRAGONARD ANGLAIS 2021 MAGAZINE FRAGONARD ANGLAIS 2021 MAGAZINE FRAGONARD ANGLAIS 2021

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