THFJS IS
ON
A High School Teacher Wardrobe
Subniitted to the Faculty
of the 0RG0N AGRICULTURAL COLLG
for the degree of
FJACH1IOR OF SCIENCE
in
Doeatio Science and Art
by
Ruby Irene Starr
June 10, 1911.
AP PR O Redacted for privacy paitii.nt cf Dest 1I& ñd  Redacted for privacy ______I)ean Schco1ÇJo DoeE3 Science 4F - A HIGH SCHOOL TTACHTR'S WARDROB
by
Ruby Irene Starr. OUTL IN E.
Introduction
Discussion
Articles composing wardrobe
Street
Green Tailored Suit (ren Silk Waist Green Silk Petticoat
School
Blue Serge Dress Black Peticoat Long Coat Linen Shirt Waist Pongee Silk Waist Flaxon Waist
Social White Lingerie Drcs3 Evening Dress Evening Cloak Poplin Afternocn Dress Spring
Thite Serge Suit Linen Dress Plaxon Dress
General Directions for Special Processes. Conclusion
Value of simple and appropriate clothing.
Time and money saved.
Anxiety avoided.
Cost of 'ardrobe.
Ge'eral valuo of well planned wardrobe. INTRODITO T ION
Any woman's wardrobe is important, as it is to a
great extent an indication of her character. A Hih
School teacher, holding the position she does, as a di-
rector of the aims and ideals of young girls must be es- pecially careful in her dress. Her clothing should be neat, well made, and al3o ßerviJeale.
The wardrobe planned in the following discussion
is one which xriht be made by the teacher during her sumier vacation. The teacher, an instructor in a H1rh
School of one of the larger Wiliamette valley towns, receiving a salary of nine hundred dollars a year.
A description and dir'ctions for making the var- icus garments, a reen tailored suit, a silk waist and petticoat to match the suit,blue serge dress, black pet- ticoat, a.öng serge coat, linen shirt waist, pongee waist, flaxon waist, whito lingerie dress, evening dress, evening cloak, silk aftrnoon dress, white ser'e suit, linen dress, and a flaxon dress, are given, with a con- cluding chapter on general dirctions for fitting gar- ments, making various seams and plackets and also other directions which apply to more than one of the garments described.
2 GR1N TAIL0R1D SUIT
6 yards -- 43 inch wide green . l.50 per yd. 39.00 3 rav Skinner satin ...... 1.50 " " 4.50 r h.irc1oth ...... 1 yard cìvas ...... 25 0.25
yard black . silk ...... 80 " " .60 Buttons -- 8 - inch, 4 -- 1 inch 30 &.40 per doz .45 covered with cloth and with black rings. 2 Spools green silk thread ...... 10 per spool .20 i Spool black button hole twist ...... 03 " .03 Hooks and eve' ...... 10 " card .10
14.9 :
.1 .. .L r
Three piece okirt with front panel and two side gores.
Front panel extendig around the skirt In a flounce
in which a three-eights inch tuck is laid at the
center side, three, one half inch buttons three
inches apart on each tuck.
Sew side gores on to front panel with open welt seams,
stitching three eights inch from edge.
Baste flounce on 3ide gores turning edge down to
wrong side and stitch ono fourth inch from edge.
Make the hack seam a flat fell le-'ving open ten in-
hec at the top for a placket.
Make a binding and facing placket.
Bind, the seams with green binding rib'oon, the two
edges of the seam being bound together.
Baste the inverted plait and two darts two inches
apart over the hips.
3
Pit carefully 1cavin no gathers at the waist and stitch da1tb and invertea piait dovn ten incfles. Pir on 'oanu. w arouna trie crciee, using the blanket stitch. Sew three one half inch buttons on the front panel at the corner of the panel and. flounce, one at the corner, one on the flounce and one up on the pan el. icvn szirt around the bottom and face with a three mcii racing. Coat
A short tailoreci coat with lar squa coiia. anu uep cutrs. Baste hoay pics totnei, in the center bck and underarm make plain seams; back panel and two tronts set on with open welt searca, and fit. Put In canvas, extend.ing ciown the entire length of front, about four inches below shoulder seam curving back to under arm s earn. Baste a fitted piece of hair cloth, which has been bound with tape, to the canvas over the bust and extendin, upward. Stitch the seams, stitching the open 'v9lt sear.s cne fourth inch troni the edge and. pressing plain SCSLIS open. Pace back the fronts with four inch facings, of the material which extend to the shoulder seam being shapect for the collar, stitch one fourth inch
from edge trom the base of the collar ciown.
ven around the bottom, stitch on a bias strip of
crinoline one inch vic1e, turn up bottom one half
inch and stitch one fourth inch from ed3e. Press frequently. Collar
Make or one piece of canvas with a piece of the ma-
terial on each side.
Stitch cloth toc ttier w1fl a sear to the ronc side,
turn right siQe out, put in the canvas bet'veen
and stitch one fourth inch from edge.
Trim collar with biack siik, wnich eomes within five
eights inch of edge of collar after the edges of
silk are turned under, stitch close to the edge of the silk,
Sow on coat, the silk upper layer of material and
canvas being sewed on the inside of the coat and
the under piece of the material witl the eae
turned under, sewed on the outside of the oo.t,
the collar thus serving as a binding.
itbein sure, it lies flat on the shoi.tders. Lining
Make of the cray satin, enouh larger than the coat
so a one inch tuck may be laid In the center back,
Stitch the seanis. Put in coat and basto around .rm
holes.
5 Baste around edges, fit to see that lt hangs correct-
ly turn ectges under leaving one haIr inch at the
bottom and three and one half inches on each side,
and blind stitch.
Si seves
Tvo piece coat sleeves.
ake plain seams ana prtss open.
Cut civrts by snapea pattern, open In hack, use same
materials as ror co!lar.
Stitch and se' on to sleeves trie same as col.Lar.
Lap the upper side of the omenlnr over the under.
Sev three one half inch buttons on upper side.
Line, haste sleeveB in coat, see that that they hang correctly, stitch, break seams and lt bck to the shoulder, turn in edre of lining and sew
around arm hole with the blind stitch.
Sev rour one inch buttons on front of coat and make
taiiore button holes using black button hole
tWist, the button holes should he cut with a
tailor's button hole punch.
SILK WAIST(To "ear vith suit)
,:5.. yars creen Persian silk ...... per yard 4.l5 i l/ yars ailover lace ...... 1.50 " " 2.25
1/4 yard plain green silk ...... 1.00 " " .25 Hooks anti eyes ...... 10 per card .10 2/3 yard muslin ...... 1 per yard . .10 t
ç)
Body
One piece waist "ith square yoke and long cuffs of
au, over lace, open in back.
Three tucks at each sholder, two one fourth inch
and one, one inch tuck wnich is stitched one fourth
inch from the edge, the extra width is for the
purpose of allowing more ruulness at the arm.
Baste in tucks anct seams, tit, and stitch making
french sears.
Turn the edge of the square neck clown one fourth
inch, to the right side and haste.
flake a bias band of the Persian silk to go around
the square neck.
Pipe with the plain gieen silk, baste on waist and
stitch both edges.
Pace th back with three tourthe inch straight lac-
inge and sew on hooks and eyes, s one racing will
lap over the other.
Make two and one half inch cuffs of Persian silk to
finish bottom of silk sleeves at the elbow, the
cutfe being shaped to a point in the back, pipe
with the plain silk, join to sleeves as a binaing
ana then turn cuffs up.
'inish waist in a holt with peplum of lining to match
Yoke an-.1 cuffs set on lining.
Make a ritted lining of muslin which extends to waist
7 line cut out at the neck two inches lower than
th3 silk waist with sleeves one inch shorter than
th. silk sleeves.
am'ae trench seams.
Make srivare yoke, with plain narrow seams join to
lining with flat fell and fit.
ITem back of yoke and iin1n with three lourtha inch
heris.
Sw collar on yoke with plain seam over cast closely.
1'inish around the top '111th a piping of plain silk.
Sew hooks and eyes on back of yoke collar and lin-
1n so they will lap one half inch.
Finish lining in a belt.
Make long fitted cuffs joining with a flat fell.
Join to lining with a hat ren.
Finish vith a one halt inch hem.
Trim with a plpin cf plain siik.
GiiJN SILK PrrlOOAT
5 yards grtn silk ...... l.25 per yard G.25 i yard green spun glass cloth ...... 30 " .30 i Spool green silk thread ...... 10 " spi. .10 $ 6.(3
BOY of Skirt
Plain seven gore skirt without inverted plait in back.
Cut length asirea :inus rourten inches.
Baste torether and fit--it should fit smoothly with
no gathers at the waist.
Stitch seams making flat fells, leave ten inches at
the top of the back seam open for a piackot.
Placket finished with a binding three fourths inch
wide when finished.
Put into ban1 turn right siae of the placket bnd-
Ing under skirt, the left side extends unaer right,
band holds sides of placket in place.
Sew two hooks arìd eyes on hand, hooks on the right
side and eyes on left.
1ven eround the bottom.
Under ]lounce.
Cut a bias piece of trie spun glass cloth twive and
one half inches wide and as long as the wiath of
the skirt plus six inches.
Sew pieces together and press seams open.
Baste on body or skirt with seam to th right siae,
holding a little tull to take up the six inches.
Thist turtle
Cut a bias strip of the spun glass cloth three and
one half inches wide, one and one third times a;
long as the flounce just put on.
Stitch ali, ends together, press seams op,n ana riem.
Uather and so'v on to flounce under a one fourth inch
tuck.
Flounce
Cut a bias piece of the silk six and one half inches
i wide, the saine length as the width of skirt
fourteen inches from lower edge.
Sew pieces together and press seams open
Stretch the lower eage with on tinsion on the ma-
chine tighter than the other, stitch around this
pious three times, one fourth inch apart, begin-
ning one and one fourth inch from ed'e, repeat
one inch hiher, this gives the appearance of
ahirring, when one thread is drawn up slihtly.
Out bias strips three and one half inches 'vide, sew
enough togetner to r'ach around the lowr edge
of the six inch ruffle, press seams open.
Turn top eage aown to wrong side one fourth inch.
Baste on lower edge of six inch rurfie and stitch
near sage.
Strtch the lower eage.
Aepeat making two more riirfles, three inches wide,
hemming the last one.
Set fiounce on skirt lower edge must he even with
edge of protecting flounce of lining.
Finish with a bias strip of the silk one half inch
wiae, leav1ng the edg9 of th t'iounce T3LTJi S1RG1! ])RSS
4 yards blue self striped serge. . . 31.50 per 'ard 00 1 H yard blue silk cord ...... 45 'I .45 G inches of two inch elastic...... 20 " 15 i Spool blue silk thread ...... 10 " spool .10 Hooks and eyes ...... 10 " card .10 Bali and socket fasteners ...... 05 " r. 05
Skirt
Two piece skirt with open welt seams over each hip,
elirhtly raised waiste line, top of skirt being
two inches above normal waist line.
Baste seams and fit, skirt should fit perfectly smooth
curving in at the waist line but not fitting tight
at waist.
Stitch seams one fourth inch from edge, leave twelve inches open at the top cf left seam for placket. Bind the under side and face the upper side of the placket.
Sew ball and socket fasteners in placket.
Put elastic around top cf skirt to hold in place.
Fir.ih around top with heavy blue Bilk cord.
ven skirt around bottom and hem with a three inch
h em.
Wa is t
Plain wat onenin in back vith a one and one half inch tuck over each shoulder.
11
Baste the seamand tuck and fit.
Stitch tucks, french fell seans.
gern each side of back with three fourths inch hems
lapping width of hems.
Join a collar of the material with a plain seam,
line with thin silk to cover sear:. and finish col-
lar.
Sew on hooks and eyes.
Sleeves Plain one piece sleeves fitting at wrist.
Gather at top, baste in and fit.
Stitch seam and hind with binding ribbon.
Stitch a three fourths inch bias strip of the mater-
ial around the bottom of the sleeves. Wear white turn over collar and cuffs with this
waist.
BLACK PTTIC0AT.
4 yards black spun glass cloth...0.g0 per yard l.2Q i Sìool black thread ...... 05 " spool .05
Body ot' skirt
Plain rive gore skirt without inverted plait in back.
Cut desired lenth minus two inches.
Baste seams and fit.
Stitch the seams making flat fells and leaving ten
12
inches open at the top of the hack sem for placket.
Bind the placket, put skirt on band and sew t'vo hooks and eyes on hand.
Fven the skirt around the bottom. Dust ruffle
Cut on bias of the material strips three and one
half inches 'ride, enough to reach one and one third
tir.es around the bottom cf the skirt.
Sew all ends together and press the seas open, and
heni with a one fourth inch hem.
Gather end sew on skirt under a one fourth Inch tuck. Flounce
Cut on bias of material strips si and one half in-
ches wide, long enough to reach around the skirt
thirteen inches above the bottom of the dust ruf-
fie, allowing six inches for fullness.
Sew pieces together and press seams open and stretch th lower edge.
Tuck vith pin tucks, two groups of three, one inch
a part.
Cut bias strips four and one half inches wide.
Sew together enough to measure around the lower
edge of the tucked piece, and press seams open.
Turn the top edge down one fourth Inch, haste on
lower edge of tucked piece, and stitch.
Repeat with next ruffle and hem with a one fourth
13 inch hem.
Baste flounce on skirt, so the bottom will corne one
fourth in1 below the dust ruffle, distribute the
few athers evenly.
Face seam at the top of flounce with a 'olas strip
one half inch wide.
LONG COAT.
5 dark blue serge ...... l.00 per yard 5.00 5 yards black satin ...... 1.50 't 't 7.50 2 vardscanvas...... 25 't 5Q 1 spool black 311k thread ...... 10 't spcol .10 4 small buttons ...... 05 't button .20 8 large buttons ...... 15 n 't 1.20 l4. 50
Body of Coat.
Three piece double breasted full length coat.
Baste seams together and fit.
Put in canvas as for green tailored coat.
Stitch seams making flat fells.
Face fronte with four Inch facings as in green
tailored coat and stitch one fourth inch from
edge.
Collar
Cut collar using two thicknesses of the blue serge
and one of canvas.
Make in the same .vay as collar for gree' coat and
sew on coat in the same way.
14
iren coat around the bottom and turn up one half inch.
Po ci' cts
Cut so they will be four inches wide and five inches
deep lo'er edge shaped to a point in center.
Trim top with a one and one fourth inch band of ma-
terial having an extension in center one and one
fourth inch v1de and one and one f.ourth inch to point.
Stitch pockets on coat with turnin, in of one half inch.
Sew a small button ori each point. Lining
Make of black satin and put in coat the same as in the green tailored coat.
Make four tailored button holes in the right side of
the front of the coat, and sew four buttons on
left side and four on the right side of the coat. Sleeves
Plain two piece coat sleeves.
Stitch plain seams and press open.
Trim two Inches from bottom with stris to match those on pocket one and one fourth Inches wide
extending from scam around the sleeve to within
one and one half inch of seam on upper part of
sleeve and ending in a point.
Stitch on sleeves and sew a small button t each
15 point. Line slves.
Plait into arri holes turning half of plaits to front
and half to back turning from center of sleeve.
Stitch sear and finish searrt nd lining as in :rsen
coat.
WHIT! LINEN SHI1T WAIST
3 yards white linen ...... 0.20 per yard ...11.80 6 buttons---pearl ...... 20 " doz ...... 10 1 spool white thread ...... 05 " spool .05
flody of waist.
Plain shirt waist opening in front with a one inch
tuck at the arm hole front and back and two one
fourth inch tucks in th fronts near the wide
tuck at the shoulder.
Baste in tucks and searis, matching tucks carefully at shoilder and fit the waist.
Stitch in french sean, and stitch tucks the entire length of waist.
Hein the left side of the front with a three fourth inch hem.
Make n inverted plait on the right side of front
one and one half inches wide, stithing one
fourth Inch from each edge.
Finish the neck with a three ihts inch collar band.
16
Hem the bottom of the waist.
Make button holes down the center of theinverted
plait n the length cf th material.
Sew i)uttorls on the left aide of waist front.
S J. e e ve s
Plain shirt waist sleeves with atiff cuffs.
French seam.
At the back of the sleeve cut up three inches and
finish with a shirt waist sleeve placket.
Cuffs of three thicknesses of the material, finish-
ed three inches wide and one inch more than hand
measure to allow for fastening.
Sew three pieces of cuff together stitching close to
the edge leaving unstitched at the top.
Gather sleevcs to within two inches of seam on each sido and stitch into cuffs
Make button hcles in cuffs for cuff links.
Gather sleeves and put into waist.
Bind seam,
Stiff white collars and jabots are to be worn with this waist,
PONGEE WAIST.
3 yards ponee silk ...... 0.25 per yard ..... 3.75 i skein green embroidery silk .05 " akin.... .05 i " blue . " 05 . . . . . 05 i spool silk thread ,,,,,,,,,, .10 " spool ... .10 12 buttons ...... 20 " dozen.... .20 __l 5
17
-
i Body of Wi3t
Simple waist, open in back, one inch tuck and three
one eight Inch tucks 'vith no space hetwen at each
shoulder in front.
Stitch tucks, down six inches.
Baste seems together, fit and french seem.
Hem backs 7ith one half inch hems and bottom of
waist with a one fourth inch hein.
Make button holes and sev on buttons.
Face the neck with a one fourth inch Lacing. Bi eaves.
Plain short sleeve. .vith turnup embroidered cuffs. Make French seams.
Mk round cuffs using two thicknesses of the mater- ial.
:roider the top piece, then sew it to the under
piece, making seam to the wrong side and then
turning right side out.
Gather the bottom of the sleeves to within to
inches of seam and 5'3W cuffs on like a binding.
Put sleeves in waist and bind seam.
Make round Dutch collar the same as cuffs.
Finish with a bias strip of the naterii îhIch is
one half inch wide finished and wiLL slip under
the neck of the waist letting the collar lie
flat on the shoulders.
18 WHITE FLAXON WAIST
3 yards cross barr f1xon
3 yards maltose lace ...... 20 " . . . . .60 12 buttons ...... 20 " doz ...... 20
-- ____
Body of Waist
Plain shirt waist open in front, right side lapping
over the other with a slight slope from center
neck down about four inches to the left, then
back to center at the bottom of waist.
Three one fourth inch tucks at each shoulder both
in front and back.
Stitch in tucks, baste sens, fit and stitch french
seas, being careful to match tucks at the shc'l-
der.
Hem the fronts with one half inch hems arid the bot-
torn of waist with a one fourth inch hem.
Make button holes and sew buttons.
Sew lace down the front holding it a little full.
Sleeves Long sleeves with five inch cuffs, four inches al-
lowed for fullness.
Fre!1h seam and gather top and bottorr: of sleeves.
1£
Cuff s
Shaped to fit arm, five inche2 long when finished.
Three one fourth inch tucks crie inch apart.
Open at back, finish opening with narrow hems. Fasten with three small pearl buttons and thread loops. Sew lace around lower edge and upper side of opening. Sew cuffs ori sleeves with a flat fell. Baste sleeves into waist, fit and stitch and bind seam with a bias strip of the material. Collar
A square Dutch collar made of two thicknesses of the thaterial.
Sew collar on waist as a binding.
Sew lace around collar holding a little rull.
WHIT LINGERIE DR1SS
5 1/3 yards of 24 inch embroidery flouncg @ 1.5O per yard .. 8.0O 1 1/2 yards white lawn .30 .... .45 1 1/4 yards emiroidery insertion .20 " .... .25 i Spool white thread ...... 05 " spool .... .05 12 Crochet buttons ...... 20 " dozen .... .20 8.95
Sk i rt
Three gores, tucked to about eight inches below
waist with one eighth inch tucks one inch apart,
upp,r part of skirt ':.ade ot lawn with flounce of
19
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1
. .i±j embroidery twenty three inches wide, three one
fourth inch tucks around the skirt above the
flounce.
Prenh am leaving ten inches open at the top of
the back seam for the placket.
Baste tucks and fit smoothly around the waist and
3titch tucks.
Finish the placket with a binding, put the skirt on
a band and sew on hooks and eyes.
1ven skirt around the bottom.
Gather three yards of the embroidery flouncing the
ends of which have been sewed together with a
french seam.
Sv on foundation with a flat Cell covering tell
with a one fourth inch tuck and making two rore
one fourth inch tucks above it.
Va1st
One piece waist and sleeve, opening in back, elbow
length aleves, made of the flouncing with the
scalloped edge turned up, tho points sewed to-
gether to join front and back, the edces coming
straitht across in front and back leaving a small
low nec:.
Baste seams and fit.
Make french seams and hem backs.
Make cuffs of th3 insertion and gather sleeves into
them.
20 Put waist and skirt into band covered with insertion
to mathh cufs.
Button dress from neck down placket with white crochet buttons.
gV1NINCT DR1SS
8 ards pale blue crepe de' . .0.50 per yd. 4.00
i Yard blue mesaline ...... 1.25 " t' 1.25 2 Yards white soisette ...... 25 tt tI 64 1 Yard fet.her hone...... 15 ' " .15 i Spool white binding Mhbon ...... 15 " pl. .15 " i Spool blue binding ribbon ...... 15 " .15 i Spool blue silk thread ...... 10 " " .10 i Spool white thread ...... 05 t' .05 18 Skeins blue embroidery il1'...... 25 " six .75 i 'vhtte Card small hooks and eyes .10 t' card .10
S:irt
Lining and flounce.
Plain seven gore skirt without inverted plait in
back, cut depth of overskirt minus two inches.
Fit skirt and flat fell seams leaving a ten inch placket,
Finish the placket with a binding and put on hand
t empo rari 1 y.
ven around the bottom.
T'rn lower edge to the right side, haste. Flounce
Cut four lengths of the crepe, three incìLes wider
than finished flounce should be . Join lenths.
Sew plain seams and press open.
21
Make a two Inch hem.
Turn In one half inch at top and gather with two
rows of gathers three eighths inches apart.
Baste to lining, vith little more fullness in the
backthan in front, seams the saine distance on
each id of the front; the top of the flounce
should just cover the turned up edge of the lin-
Ing.
Stitch over both gathering threads. Overskirt
Three gore gathered skirt, hand embroidered.
Cut three lengths of the material, long 'nouh to
reach below the bend of the knees plus three inches.
Gore each side of the front four inches leving the full width at the bottom.
Side pieces gored eight inches on one side full
width at bottom.
Make french fells for the t"ro side seams.
Back seam make a plain seam leaving ten inches open
at the top for th placket, bind the seam open with the blue binding ribbon, binding continuing- the niacket to the band.
Gather on band with most of th gathers in the back.
Turn one side of the placket under three fourths
of an inch and lap this side over the other.
22 sven around, the bottom and hem with a two inch hem.
mbroider just above the hein.
Remove temporary belt from skirt 11ri an put it
in the saine band as the overskirt. Waist
T1ht fitted lining made of soisette.
Cut by fitted pattern, baste seams and fit carefully,
it should fit absolutely smooth , mark waistline.
Stitch plain seams arid hind open with white binding ribbon.
Hem the backs making edges just meet.
Cut the feather bone in six pieces six inches in
length.
Remove the cloth from two pieces and slip them into
the back hems, with the lower end just at the
'viist line, stitch close around them to hold firm-
ly in place.
On th other four pieces rip 1h cloth down one half
inch on one end and cut out one half in3h of the
feather bone then turn the cloth back over the
end to the wrong side aid fasten.
Put these on the wrong side of the t"o.front seams
and th two back under arm seams, with the un-
finished end. at the waist line, sti1h feather
bone down the center spr1n:in into waist at
Curve of waist by pulling the waist tightly
ihj1e stitching.
23 Sew on hooks and eyes, one half inch apart, 1terna-
ting hooks and eyes on the same side, use the
round eyes, place hooks and eyes so that when
fastened the edges of the waist .'rill just meet.
Stitch a facin3 over the hem on the urong side, fold
it down to cover all but th edges of the eyes and
slipping it under the hooks, blind 3titch the out- er edge.
Turn the bottom of lining up to th wrong side at the exact wai3t line and baste. Wais proper
Take tvo flieces of material long enough to reach from
the waist line In front over the shoulder to the
waist line in back.
Turn back the edge of one, one half Inch and baste.
Baste in four, one inch tucks each just touching the one in front.
Tuck the other piece in the same way.
Lay them over each shoulder of the tight fitting lin-
in on a form and pin in place so the edge comes to the base of the neck in each cile.
Baste the underarm eazn, remove from linina and stitch seam.
Cut out arm hole and extra material under the
arm and prose seam open.
Put 'valet back on lining and haste. Tack tucks to lining with blue silk thread.
Put in back pieces leaving it low in the neck, slip
edges under the tu3ked piece and blind stitch,
center back edges folded under and extending one
eighth inch over edge and blind stitch.
Sew in embroidered front leaving it low in the neck
as in the back, slip edges under tucked pieces as in back and blind stitch.
ven around the hottm, turn up to wrong side and face.
Cut out the lining from neck, pipe with messaline silk, then with white chiffon.
Si eaves
Uso pattern which allows for very litt] fullness.
Cut long enough to allow for four one Inch tucks
and a one Inch hex, the finished sleeve to coiie
a little above the elbow.
French seam, hem by hand and baste tucks which are
stitched in the seam.
On the top of the sleeve draw tucks up and chain stitch.
Make three messaline rosebuds for each sleeve and
fasten to sleeve at bottonA of chain stitch with
the rope silk, make two larger roses and sow
where rosebuds are fastened.
Sew sleeves in and bind with blue bIndinr ri;bon.
25 Sew on to skirt.
Girdle
Cut on the bias, a piece of the blue messiline iht inches wide.
Lay in plaits, turn under owh edge, leaving it four iiches wide finished.
Baste on dress, fit and blind stitch to dress. Turn under edges in hack just allowing edge to meet and blind stitch.
IN(ì CLOAX.
yards 6 gray cahmere...... l.O0 per yard $6.00 6 yards black skinner satin 1.50 8.00 i spool gray silk thread ...... 10 " spool .10 i spool black silk thread ... .10 ' .10 3 lar jet buttons ...... 10 " button .30 l4.!3O
vening Cloak
Cs.pe 'vithout sleeves, sides open trom shoulder to the bottom.
Four lengths, two in front, two in hack, curved out over shoulders. Basto together and fit.
Stitch seams and press open.
Turn ed,es one half inch to the wrong side and stitch close to edge.
26
Collar Make lare collar of two thickno3es o.Cc&ahmore.
Stitch together vith eeen to wrong side, turn right
side out and stitch again close to edge. Trim collar 'rith black 3atin which comes within one
half inch of edge of collar, stitch on edge of sat in.
Sew on cloak the same as collar in green tailored suit. Lining
Make same as outside, basto in and blind stitch edges.
Make bu.tton holo and sew on buttons.
GRN POPLIN AFTRN00N DRESS
3 yards plain geon silk popli.l.0 pr yard...4.50 2 u u yards figured 1.75 ft U 4.40 lj2yard Baby IrIsh ' allover lace 3.00 ... 1.50 l yard green la .20 " " ... .30 2 spools " green silk thr3ad .10 spool... .20 i ca:rd hooks and eves ...... 10 card .. . .10 Ti.0Ö skIrt
Over skirt of fiured poplin, high waisted, shaped
to point on sides and dip in 'ront over plaited flounce of plain poplin set on plain fitting lin- ing.
27
L in ing
Plain seven gore, high 'vaisted skirt of reen la7n twenty one inches shorter than skirt inverted plait In back.
Baste and fit carefully, should curve in at waist.
Stitch flat fells leaving twolve inches opon at top
of back seam for placket e
Finish the placket ith a binding. Tven around the bottom.
Flounc e
Cut three widths of the plain poplin tonty four inches deep.
Stitch together and press seams open.
Make a throe inch hem.
Plait onto lin±ng with cne and one half inch plaits
and 3titch making a flat fell. Overkirt Circular
Made o figured poplin, high waisted and pointed on the sides.
Pieced in back, match figure:3.
Baste back seam and darts, two darts two Inches apart on each hip.
Fit carefully and stitch ssi, leaving twelve
inches apen at top for placket, and darts.
Bind back seam and finish placket with a binding. Pace bottom of overskirt with two inch facinas, cut on the bias.
Turn in top edge of lining and of the over skirt and basto them together.
Sew hooks and eyes on placket. Waist
Peasant blouse of plain poplin oren in back. lbow s1eves,
Baste seams, fit and french 3eam.
Make points of figured poplin two for front and two
for back of waist, one lapping over the other in
front but meeting in the back.
Baate points on waist, fit ard 3titch one fourth inch
from edge.
Cut out neck for round yoke and face to right side
'Tith bias piece of material.
Hem the sleeves with a one fourth inch hem.
Pace the backs with three fourths inch pieces of the material on the straight of the material.
Make yoke and collar of the lace)sewing-collar on
yoke vith a small closely over cast seam, pipe
the top of the collar with plain poplin.
Baste in waist, fit and sew in by hand finishin edges by overcastir
Make two inch cuffs of laco, sew into sleeves by hand, pipe with plain poplin.
29 Sew on hooks arid eyes. Baste into skirt and stitch close to top ede of skirt. Cut off the edge of waist below holt and face with a bias strip of poplin se\Ting by hand.
1VHIT SFRG SUIT 5 yar1s white serge...... l.25 per yard ..... $6.25 4 yards whito mossaline .35 " " 2.90 i spool white si.k thread .10 " spool ...... 10 i lare white pea rl button.. .15 hutton .15 i card iooks and eyes .10 " card.. .10 '.h i t e silk binding ribbon.. .15 " spool .15 3W65
3i:irt Three piece skirt, sear.a over hips and in back. Baste in center front four, five oigbhs inch tucks two turned toward front, the ecìes just meeting in conter frönt, a two inch space on each side then the other two tucks turned a'ïay from center. Basto in seams the side seams being open welt seams the back one a plain seam. Baste tucks in back the same as in front. Fit and stitch seams and tucks, stitchin the open welt seams one elgbh inch from th3 ede and bay- ing ten inches at the top of the back seam open for the placket. Bind seans with binding ribbon.
30
Make a facing and binding placket.
Put on band and ow on hooks and eyes.
Even around bottom and make a four Inch hem.
Co at
Short semi fitting coat lined with white messline.
Make under arm and shoulder seaì3 plain, others opon welt seams.
Fit, stitch seams, opon welt seams one eigth inch
from edge, press plain seanÀs open.
Face back fronts with three inch facings which ex-
tend to the shoulder sear1 and are shaped with the
line for collar, stitch one eith inch from edge.
Col i ar
A shawl collar which extends to within four inches
of the bottom of the coat.
Use two thicknesses of the serge with light weicht
canvas in between.
Stitch close to edcio and sew on coat the same as
collar for green tailored coat.
Line coat with white xnessaline, make and put in lin-
Ing the saine as in groen tailored coat, use no
stifnirig or padding except in collar which needs
the stifening to hold its shape.
Make button hole one inch below base of collar and
sew on button.
3]. Sleeves.
Two pi3ce coat sleeves.
Make simple seams and press open.
Turn up bottom of sleeves and stitch close to ede.
Two and one half inc1es from bottom of siesves put
two rows of stitching one fourth inch apart.
Line as in green coat.
Gather sleeves twice, haste in coat, see that gath- ers ha straight and stitch.
Finish lining around arm hole as in green coat.
Even coat around the bottom, turn up and stitch one
eih Inch from edge, and blind stitch lining.
LINEN DRE35
7 yards natural linen ...... O.75 per yard..5.25 i spool linen thread , ...... 05 " spool.. .05 i card ball arid socket fastsn3rs .05 card . 8buttone .05 ...... 15 "dozen .10 Ar- AL .Io.
Sit
Plain four gore skirt, front and back panels 'vith a
five eigths inch tuck on each aide.
Baste skirt together and baste in tucks.
Fit and f rench seam, and stitch tucks and darts,
leave ten inches open at top of back left seam for the placket.
32
Make a binding placket. Put skirt on band and sew on ball and socket fast- enins. Even skirt around the bottom and make a three inch heni. Waist. Plain skirt waist, open in back with one one inch tuck and three one fourth inch tucks.at each shoulder in front, back plain. Ba.tucks and seams, fit and stitch using french GC aira s. Hein backs with three fourth inch hems. Bind neck with three eigths inch binding. Hem bottom of waist with a one fourth inch hem. Make button holes and sew on buttons. Si evos. Plain shirt waist sleeves with two inch cuffs opsn in back. French seam and gather both top and bottom. Make cuffs two inches wide of two thicknesses of the linen, stitch with seam to wrong aide, leave top open, turn right aile out and stitch again one elgth inch from edge. Sew slevo3 into cuffs, bake two buttons on lower side.
Baste sleeves into waist, stitch an& bind with a
33 bias strip of the liflon.
13e lt
Two inches vide, n4ade and stitched same as cufs. Collar
Slightly shaped, stitched like cufs and belt.
FLAXON DES2
6 'rar blue flowered cross bar flaxon, 25Ø per yd 1.50 .2.- yard plain blue flaxori ...... 30 " " .15 1/3 yard narrow I, ft lace ...... 10 9 pearl buttons ...... l5ç " dz .12 i spool fine 'vhit reacl ...... 05 " cpi. .05 i email card small fite " hooks and eyes 0.5 cd. i7.05
Skirt
Slightly high waisted, tucked skirt.
1irk waist line carefully. French seam all the seam leaving twelve inches at the top of the back seam for the placket. Baste in tucks and fit, then stitch tucks. Make a binding placket. Finish skirt around the top with a narrow piping of the plain blue material.
Sev on hooks and eyes.
1ven around the bottom and make a three inch hexq. Wa i s t Peasant blouse, three one fourth inch tucks
34
at each shoulder, and two groups of three, one
fourth inch tucks on each side of center, yoke
of tucked i.atsria1 piped ''itt1 the plain blue, to
the bottom of the elbow sleeves, sleeves pieced
on under the last of the tucks.
Baste tucks and sean and fit.
Stitch tucks and french seazs.
Baste yoke on waist turning edges under.
Cut out waist from under yoke, turn edges clown and
stitch edge of roke
Face the neck with a bias strip of the plain blue
f laxon.
Gather narrow lac' around neck.
Hem the backs with a three fourths inch hem, make
button holes and sew on buttons.
Make cuffs of plain blue one inch wide finished.
Gather bottom of sleeves and put cuffs on 11ko a
binding.
('rather lace around cuffs.
Fit, gather, baste waist into skirt trim off bottom
evenly and stitch'just below the piping of the
skirt,
Face with material on the under side, se:ing the
facing by hand.
35 G'N1RAL DIRTIONS
V' A'C' 5 4 .,
Plain Seai:
Put the two edges of the material exactly together
to the wrong sido.
Stitch any distance desired frcrn the edge, usually
one fourth inch.
cges may be left as they are, pinked, bound or over
cast.
French Seam
Put edges exactly together to the right side.
Stitch very close to the edge nevr more than one
eighth inch from edge.
Turn seaj. croaing exactly on the stitching.
Stitch again so that no raw edges sho', the first
seam being entirely enclosed in the second.
French Fell
Put the ethes together, "ïith one edge projecting
out farther than the other, to the wrong sido.
If' there is a st.r.ight edge have it the wider.
Stitch one eighth Inch from the shorter edge.
Turn the long edge over the ahort cne, and stitch.
The first stitching may be omitted basting taking
Its place.
If the material will not crease easily se should
'ce basted.
36 Flat Fell
Put the edges together, toive.rd the wrong side, with
one edge projecting out one eith to cne half
i'ch farther than the other.
Stitch one eighth inch from the shorter edge. If there is a straight edge it should be used for
the longer edge if possible to turn the fell that way.
Turn the wider edge the material over the ähorter ene, making the edges lie flat on the material, (if
BCiVCd e turn the raw edge under
This leaves rio raw edges and to rors of stitching showing.
Open welt seas
Turn one edge of the material back as for a tuck,
turning back one ±'curth inch more than the de-
cired width cf the tuc, baste if material 'vili not crease.
Lay this edge of the material over the other, the
tva raw edges together, and baste.
Stitch leaving tuck the desired vidth.
Raw edges may be left as they are if garment is to
be lined, or they may he bound, pinked or over cast.
37 PLACKT3
Binding Placket
Use a straight length of the material binding all
around the lacket.
In putting into band one side Is left out as a bind-
ing, the other turned back at the stitching as
for a facing and laps over the binding 'vhen the
garment is fastened.
Bindin and Facing Placket
Put a binding, a 3traight length of the material,
one side and a facing on the other, making them
the same width whon finished, the facing to lap
over the binding.
Stitch across th end at bottom of placket to hold
in place.
Used on underwear or skirts where an inverted plait
or trimming would hide stitching.
Putting a skirt on a band
Put the skirt on the person, then place the band
with one edge turned in so it sets naturally In
place this locates the correct waist line.
See that the 3kirt hangs and fits correctly and that
the hIpU.ne is in proper position.
Pin th skirt to band and remove from form.
The Land stitched on the right side, the other side
turned over and hemmed or the 1and may be put on straight skirt fixed in place and stitched as a
"ir1dinZ.
FITTING
Skirt
Put on form with ses to the outside, unless two
sides of person differ.
In a plain fitting skirt, as a tailored skirt or
plain lining the skirt should fit perfectly srocth
around the hips and snu, t the waist with no
gathers.
Take up all extra fullnes3 in the seams vhich should
tip 1ihtly to the front.
The woof thread at the hip line shculd. be parallel
to the floor.
WAIST
Put on person with seams to the wrong side.
Take up extra lar ness or let out where it is too
small by altering seams, chancing at under arm
and shoulder seams.
Collar should set well up on neck and waist should
not wrinkle at base cf collar.
Arm's eye ciuite loose fitting.
Keep voof threads parellel to floor, they should ex-
tend 3traight acrous the front.
39-: Tight Fitting Waist
Should fit perfectly amooth hut not drawn.
The seams all in their proper lines and places not
drawn to one side or out of shape.
Fitted by taking up seams as in shirt waist.
CO AT
Keep wocf threads parallel to floor.
Should fit snug lut not tight over th hips.
Se that it does not raw just in front of the arm's
eye but rounds out from the shoulder over the
ìust in a good curve, pad if rocesary.
Shoul fit smoothly over the bust hut not tight.
Collar should not poke out in center back but fol-
low the c rye of the neck.
Sl ccv es
Should be gathered t'vice.
At least six inches left plain under the arm with-
out gathers.
Gathers should hans straight down from the shoulder.
When gathered at the bottom two inches should be
left on each side of seam to make sleeve curve
with the arm at the seam.
To sew on Hocks and Eyos
Uso blanket stitch and sew around cirles.
40 If the edges of the garment are to just meet the
edges of the hooks and eyes should corne just to
the edge cf the garment. If one side of the garment lap3 over the other the
edges of the hocks just come to the edge of the
garment while the eyes aro sewed lack on the
garment so the lap will be the width dosred.
41 CONCLUS ION
A wardrobe conoistin of simple garments which are well made and appropriate to all functions she may be called upon to attend is a saving of ti:e and money and anxiety is aoide1. A teacher knowing approximately what her social and school duties wilÏ be can plan her wardrobe so she has an appropriate dress for all oc- caione, and when attending each function she knows that she is well dressed, that her clothing is not out of place and so is free from all thought or care con- cerning her dress. By having her garments simply made she saves expens3 and time in making both of which mean a great deal to most teachers. Another adv3ntae of simple clothing is that it may be 'rorn more than one season without bei conspiciously out of style.
The coSt of the wardro'e which has been planned is as follows:
TailoredSuit ...... l4.93 Silk ;vai ...... 6.85 Green silk Petticoat ...... 6.65 Blue Serge Drer3s ...... 7.85 Black Petticoat ...... 1.25
Long Coat ...... 14.50 White Linen Shirt Waist ...... 1.95 Ponee Waist ...... 4.15 White Plaxon Waist ...... 1.55 White Lingerie Dress ...... 8.95 1veninDres...... « ...... 7.34 ...... 14.50 Silk Poplin Afternoon Dross ...... 1l.0 White Sere Si.it ...... 9.65 binen Dress ...... 5.45 Flaxon Dress ...... 1.97 ll8.54 The total cost of the ziatsrials used in r.aking this wardrobe is ll8.54. This does not include time or expense of n.akin.
The general value of a vell plan'ied wardrobe can scarcely be ov3rstimatod iving an aprropriate garment, t'cr all occasions, which is stylish and in keeping with the position an instructor holds in her comr.unity. She is relieved of all worry concerning her clothing and her time and strength are saved for her work and the ¡ioney expended on her clothing is spent wisely and economically.
42