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The Journal of Dress History Volume 3, Issue 1, Spring 2019 The Journal of Dress History Volume 3, Issue 1, Spring 2019 Front Cover Image: Studio Portrait of Three Brothers, (from Left) Carlo Dalfollo, Giuseppe Dalfollo, and Pietro Dalfollo, Photographer Unknown, 1920, Saugerties, New York, United States, Private Collection, Estes Park, Colorado, United States. The Journal of Dress History Volume 3, Issue 1, Spring 2019 Special Themed Issue Dress and War: Clothing and Textiles at Home and Abroad during the First World War Era, 1910–1920 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Scott Hughes Myerly Proofreader Georgina Chappell Editorial Assistant Irene Calvi Editorial Assistant Katharine Lawden Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org The Journal of Dress History Volume 3, Issue 1, Spring 2019 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2019 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The ADH supports and promotes the study and professional practice of the history of dress, textiles, and accessories of all cultures and regions of the world, from before classical antiquity to the present day. The ADH is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Journal of Dress History is circulated solely for educational purposes and is non– commercial: journal issues are not for sale or profit. The Journal of Dress History is run by a team of unpaid volunteers and is published on an Open Access platform distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is cited properly. Complete issues of The Journal of Dress History are freely available on the ADH website www.dresshistorians.org. The Editorial Board of The Journal of Dress History encourages the unsolicited submission for publication consideration of academic articles on any topic of the history of dress, textiles, and accessories of all cultures and regions of the world, from before classical antiquity to the present day. Articles and book reviews are welcomed from students, early career researchers, independent scholars, and established professionals. If you would like to discuss an idea for an article or book review, please contact Jennifer Daley, editor–in–chief of The Journal of Dress History, at email [email protected]. Consult the most recently published issue for updated submission guidelines for articles and book reviews. The Journal of Dress History is designed on European standard A4 size paper (8.27 x 11.69 inches) and is intended to be read electronically, in consideration of the environment. The graphic design utilises the font, Baskerville, a serif typeface designed in 1754 by John Baskerville (1706–1775) in Birmingham, England. The logo of the ADH is a monogram of three letters, ADH, interwoven to represent the interdisciplinarity of our membership, committed to scholarship in dress history. The logo was designed in 2017 by Janet Mayo, longstanding ADH member. The Journal of Dress History Volume 3, Issue 1, Spring 2019 The Advisory Board The Editorial Board of The Journal of Dress History gratefully acknowledges the support and expertise of The Advisory Board, the membership of which is as follows, in alphabetical order: Sylvia Ayton, MBE, Independent Scholar, United Kingdom Cally Blackman, MA, Central Saint Martins, United Kingdom Penelope Byrde, MA, FMA, Independent Scholar, United Kingdom Caroline de Guitaut, MVO, AMA, Royal Collection Trust, United Kingdom Thomas P. Gates, MA, MSLS, MAEd, Kent State University, United States Alex Kerr, PhD, FBS, The Burgon Society, United Kingdom Jenny Lister, MA, The Victoria and Albert Museum, United Kingdom Timothy Long, MA, Independent Scholar, United States Jane Malcolm–Davies, PhD, The University of Copenhagen, Denmark Susan North, PhD, The Victoria and Albert Museum, United Kingdom Martin Pel, MA, Royal Pavilion and Brighton Museums, United Kingdom Anna Reynolds, MA, Royal Collection Trust, United Kingdom Aileen Ribeiro, PhD, The Courtauld Institute of Art, United Kingdom Georgina Ripley, MA, National Museums Scotland, United Kingdom Gary Watt, MA, NTF, The University of Warwick, United Kingdom Rainer Wenrich, PhD, Catholic University, Eichstaett–Ingolstadt, Germany 1 The Journal of Dress History Volume 3, Issue 1, Spring 2019 Contents Articles “The Importance of Being Jeweled:” Patriotism and Adornment in the United States during the First World War Ariana Bishop 5 Masking Reality: Prosthetics and Adaptable Clothing during the First World War Lizanne Brown 33 The Fashion Trade in First World War France Clare Rose 53 “For God and Ulster:” Political Manifestation of Irish Dress and the Ulster Volunteer Medical and Nursing Corps, 1912–1918 Rachel Sayers 76 Women’s Fashions in Zagreb, Croatia, 1914–1918 Katarina Nina Simončič 104 Creativity amidst Conflict: The Marchesa Luisa Casati and the Avant–Garde in Wartime Rome, 1915–1918 Stephanie Sporn 130 Dress Economy for the British Home Front: Flora Klickmann’s Needlework Economies (1919) Hannah Wroe 151 2 The Journal of Dress History Volume 3, Issue 1, Spring 2019 Book Reviews Fashion Curating: Critical Practice in the Museum and Beyond By Annamari Vänskä and Hazel Clark Irene Calvi 179 The Fashion Chronicles: The Style Stories of History’s Best Dressed By Amber Butchart Landis Lee 182 Signs and Symbols: Dress at the Intersection between Image and Realia By Sabine de Günther and Philipp Zitzlsperger Scott Hughes Myerly 185 European Fashion: The Creation of a Global Industry By Regina Lee Blaszczyk and Véronique Pouillard Lorraine Portelli 189 Recent PhD Theses in Dress History 192 A Guide to Online Sources for Dress History Research Jennifer Daley 195 The Editorial Board 222 The Advisory Board 224 Submission Guidelines for Articles 230 Submission Guidelines for Book Reviews 251 Index of Articles and Book Reviews 254 3 The Journal of Dress History Volume 3, Issue 1, Spring 2019 Welcome Dear ADH Members and Friends, The articles published in this special themed issue are a result of our annual International Conference of Dress Historians, which was held in London on 26 October 2018, and titled, Dress and War: Clothing and Textiles at Home and Abroad during the First World War Era, 1910–1920. Additionally, this issue includes reviews of recently published academic books in dress history. I hope you enjoy reading this issue. As always, if you have comments about this issue or an interest in writing an academic article or book review for future publication, please contact me. I look forward to hearing from you. Best regards, Jennifer Daley Editor–in–Chief, The Journal of Dress History Chairman and Trustee, The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org 4 The Journal of Dress History Volume 3, Issue 1, Spring 2019 “The Importance of Being Jeweled:” Patriotism and Adornment in the United States during the First World War Ariana Bishop Abstract During the First World War in the United States, civilian practices of adornment transformed in response to the turbulent political atmosphere and women’s changing roles in society. There had been a tradition of wearing severe black jewellery in times of mourning or even avoiding jewellery altogether, and most of the literature maintains that jewellery–wearing was halted by the war as public opinion considered luxurious displays of adornment unbecoming. Yet new styles of jewellery were introduced and women were even encouraged to don their most exquisite jewels. While some desired jewellery for the sentimental purpose of remembering loved ones fighting overseas, many others embraced such ornaments as symbols of patriotism and as a means of promoting prosperity in wartime. Freed from the limitations of traditional Victorian–era mourning customs, women used personal adornment to fulfill a patriotic duty of encouraging, inspiring, and carrying out wartime efforts. 5 The Journal of Dress History Volume 3, Issue 1, Spring 2019 Introduction There is no wearing–apparel that evidences prosperous times as do rare jewels. Jewels are the emblems of wealth and power. If these are discarded, are we to believe that the era of imposing and stately ceremonies has passed?1 The American women’s magazine, Vogue, posed this question to readers in the 15 November 1917 issue, in an article, titled, “The Importance of Being Jeweled,” in response to the noticeable disappearance of the display of jewellery by women. Seven months prior, on 6 April 1917, the United States Congress had declared war on Germany, entering one of the largest and deadliest conflicts in global history: the First World War. Beginning in July 1914 and lasting until November 1918, the Great War spurred tremendous change in the daily lives of Americans, including how women adorned themselves. As Vogue suggested, during this period of extraordinary political upheaval and rapid social change, the propriety of wearing jewellery was questioned but its significance was also reinterpreted. This article examines the changes in jewellery–wearing practices and attitudes towards personal adornment by American women over the course of the First World War to gain insight into its significance during
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