The Journal of Dress History Volume 3, Issue 1, Spring 2019
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A Seventeenth-Century Doublet from Scotland
Edinburgh Research Explorer A Seventeenth-Century Doublet from Scotland Citation for published version: Wilcox, D, Payne, S, Pardoe, T & Mikhaila, N 2011, 'A Seventeenth-Century Doublet from Scotland', Costume, vol. 2011, no. 45, pp. 39-62. https://doi.org/10.1179/174963011X12978768537537 Digital Object Identifier (DOI): 10.1179/174963011X12978768537537 Link: Link to publication record in Edinburgh Research Explorer Document Version: Peer reviewed version Published In: Costume Publisher Rights Statement: © Wilcox, D., Payne, S., Pardoe, T., & Mikhaila, N. (2011). A Seventeenth-Century Doublet from Scotland. Costume , 2011(45), 39-62 doi: 10.1179/174963011X12978768537537 General rights Copyright for the publications made accessible via the Edinburgh Research Explorer is retained by the author(s) and / or other copyright owners and it is a condition of accessing these publications that users recognise and abide by the legal requirements associated with these rights. Take down policy The University of Edinburgh has made every reasonable effort to ensure that Edinburgh Research Explorer content complies with UK legislation. If you believe that the public display of this file breaches copyright please contact [email protected] providing details, and we will remove access to the work immediately and investigate your claim. Download date: 02. Oct. 2021 © Wilcox, D., Payne, S., Pardoe, T., & Mikhaila, N. (2011). A Seventeenth-Century Doublet from Scotland. Costume , 2011(45), 39-62 doi: 10.1179/174963011X12978768537537 A SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY DOUBLET FROM SCOTLAND By SUSAN PAYNE, DAVID WILCOX, TUULA PARDOE AND NINYA MIKHAILA. In December 2004 a local family donated a cream silk slashed doublet to Perth Museum and Art Gallery.i Stylistically the doublet is given a date between 1620 and 1630 but the family story is that it was a gift to one of their ancestors about the time of the Battle of Killiecrankie in 1689. -
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
Cora Ginsburg Catalogue 2015
CORA GINSBURG LLC TITI HALLE OWNER A Catalogue of exquisite & rare works of art including 17th to 20th century costume textiles & needlework 2015 by appointment 19 East 74th Street tel 212-744-1352 New York, NY 10021 fax 212-879-1601 www.coraginsburg.com [email protected] NEEDLEWORK SWEET BAG OR SACHET English, third quarter of the 17th century For residents of seventeenth-century England, life was pungent. In order to combat the unpleasant odors emanating from open sewers, insufficiently bathed neighbors, and, from time to time, the bodies of plague victims, a variety of perfumed goods such as fans, handkerchiefs, gloves, and “sweet bags” were available for purchase. The tradition of offering embroidered sweet bags containing gifts of small scented objects, herbs, or money began in the mid-sixteenth century. Typically, they are about five inches square with a drawstring closure at the top and two to three covered drops at the bottom. Economical housewives could even create their own perfumed mixtures to put inside. A 1621 recipe “to make sweete bags with little cost” reads: Take the buttons of Roses dryed and watered with Rosewater three or foure times put them Muske powder of cloves Sinamon and a little mace mingle the roses and them together and putt them in little bags of Linnen with Powder. The present object has recently been identified as a rare surviving example of a large-format sweet bag, sometimes referred to as a “sachet.” Lined with blue silk taffeta, the verso of the central canvas section contains two flat slit pockets, opening on the long side, into which sprigs of herbs or sachets filled with perfumed powders could be slipped to scent a wardrobe or chest. -
Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018
The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Front Cover Image: Textile Detail of an Evening Dress, circa 1950s, Maker Unknown, Middlesex University Fashion Collection, London, England, F2021AB. The Middlesex University Fashion Collection comprises approximately 450 garments for women and men, textiles, accessories including hats, shoes, gloves, and more, plus hundreds of haberdashery items including buttons and trimmings, from the nineteenth century to the present day. Browse the Middlesex University Fashion Collection at https://tinyurl.com/middlesex-fashion. The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Scott Hughes Myerly Proofreader Georgina Chappell Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2018 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the advancement of public knowledge and education in the history of dress and textiles. The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Journal of Dress History is copyrighted by the publisher, The Association of Dress Historians, while each published author within the journal holds the copyright to their individual article. The Journal of Dress History is circulated solely for educational purposes, completely free of charge, and not for sale or profit. -
The Morgue File 2010
the morgue file 2010 DONE BY: ASSIL DIAB 1850 1900 1850 to 1900 was known as the Victorian Era. Early 1850 bodices had a Basque opening over a che- misette, the bodice continued to be very close fitting, the waist sharp and the shoulder less slanted, during the 1850s to 1866. During the 1850s the dresses were cut without a waist seam and during the 1860s the round waist was raised to some extent. The decade of the 1870s is one of the most intricate era of women’s fashion. The style of the early 1870s relied on the renewal of the polonaise, strained on the back, gath- ered and puffed up into an detailed arrangement at the rear, above a sustaining bustle, to somewhat broaden at the wrist. The underskirt, trimmed with pleated fragments, inserting ribbon bands. An abundance of puffs, borders, rib- bons, drapes, and an outlandish mixture of fabric and colors besieged the past proposal for minimalism and looseness. women’s daywear Victorian women received their first corset at the age of 3. A typical Victorian Silhouette consisted of a two piece dress with bodice & skirt, a high neckline, armholes cut under high arm, full sleeves, small waist (17 inch waist), full skirt with petticoats and crinoline, and a floor length skirt. 1894/1896 Walking Suit the essential “tailor suit” for the active and energetic Victorian woman, The jacket and bodice are one piece, but provide the look of two separate pieces. 1859 zouave jacket Zouave jacket is a collarless, waist length braid trimmed bolero style jacket with three quarter length sleeves. -
Lookbook a CAT CALLED SAM & a DOG NAMED DUKE
AW21 A CAT CALLED SAM & A DOG NAMED DUKE click here to VIEW OUR Lookbook VIDEO thebonniemob.com AW21 AW21 S STAINABLE A CAT CALLED SAM & RECYCLE ORG NIC A DOG NAMED DUKE This is the story of a cat called Sam and a dog named Duke. Everyone said that they couldn’t be friends, because cats and dogs aren’t allowed to like each other!!! But Sam and Duke were different, they were the best of friends and loved each other very much, they liked to hang out together with their owner, a famous artist called Andy Warhol. They threw parties for all the coolest cats and dogs of New York, where they would dance the night away looking up at the city skyline, when they spotted a shooting star they’d make wishes for a world filled with art and colour and fun and kindness.......... click here click here click here to for to VIEW COLLECTION VIEW OUR INSPIRATION runthrough VIDEO Video Video CULTURE T shirt click click here CAMPBELL here for Hareem pants to order line sheets online CANDY dress THUMPER #welovebonniemob tights 2 3 thebonniemob.com AW21 LIZ A Hat G NI R C LIBERTY O ABOUT US Playsuit C LEGEND We are The bonnie mob, a multi-award winning sustainable baby and O N childrenswear brand, we are a family business, based in Brighton, on the sunny T T O Blanket South Coast of England. We are committed to doing things differently, there are no differences between what we want for our family and what we ask from our brand. -
1 Breakfast at Tiffany's Truman Capote, 1958 I Am Always Drawn Back To
1 Breakfast at Tiffany's surrounded by photographs of ice-hockey stars, there is always a large bowl of fresh Truman Capote, 1958 flowers that Joe Bell himself arranges with matronly care. That is what he was doing when I came in. I am always drawn back to places where I have lived, the houses and their "Naturally," he said, rooting a gladiola deep into the bowl, "naturally I wouldn't have neighborhoods. For instance, there is a brownstone in the East Seventies where, got you over here if it wasn't I wanted your opinion. It's peculiar. A very peculiar thing during the early years of the war, I had my first New York apartment. It was one room has happened." crowded with attic furniture, a sofa and fat chairs upholstered in that itchy, particular red "You heard from Holly?" velvet that one associates with hot days on a tram. The walls were stucco, and a color He fingered a leaf, as though uncertain of how to answer. A small man with a fine rather like tobacco-spit. Everywhere, in the bathroom too, there were prints of Roman head of coarse white hair, he has a bony, sloping face better suited to someone far ruins freckled brown with age. The single window looked out on a fire escape. Even so, taller; his complexion seems permanently sunburned: now it grew even redder. "I can't my spirits heightened whenever I felt in my pocket the key to this apartment; with all its say exactly heard from her. I mean, I don't know. -
The Shape of Women: Corsets, Crinolines & Bustles
The Shape of Women: Corsets, Crinolines & Bustles – c. 1790-1900 1790-1809 – Neoclassicism In the late 18th century, the latest fashions were influenced by the Rococo and Neo-classical tastes of the French royal courts. Elaborate striped silk gowns gave way to plain white ones made from printed cotton, calico or muslin. The dresses were typically high-waisted (empire line) narrow tubular shifts, unboned and unfitted, but their minimalist style and tight silhouette would have made them extremely unforgiving! Underneath these dresses, the wearer would have worn a cotton shift, under-slip and half-stays (similar to a corset) stiffened with strips of whalebone to support the bust, but it would have been impossible for them to have worn the multiple layers of foundation garments that they had done previously. (Left) Fashion plate showing the neoclassical style of dresses popular in the late 18th century (Right) a similar style ball- gown in the museum’s collections, reputedly worn at the Duchess of Richmond’s ball (1815) There was public outcry about these “naked fashions,” but by modern standards, the quantity of underclothes worn was far from alarming. What was so shocking to the Regency sense of prudery was the novelty of a dress made of such transparent material as to allow a “liberal revelation of the human shape” compared to what had gone before, when the aim had been to conceal the figure. Women adopted split-leg drawers, which had previously been the preserve of men, and subsequently pantalettes (pantaloons), where the lower section of the leg was intended to be seen, which was deemed even more shocking! On a practical note, wearing a short sleeved thin muslin shift dress in the cold British climate would have been far from ideal, which gave way to a growing trend for wearing stoles, capes and pelisses to provide additional warmth. -
Urban Representation in Fashion Magazines
Chair of Urban Studies and Social Research Faculty of Architecture and Urbanism Bauhaus-University Weimar Fashion in the City and The City in Fashion: Urban Representation in Fashion Magazines Doctoral dissertation presented in fulfillment of the requirement for the degree of Doctor philosophiae (Dr. phil.) Maria Skivko 10.03.1986 Supervising committee: First Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Frank Eckardt, Bauhaus-University, Weimar Second Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Stephan Sonnenburg, Karlshochschule International University, Karlsruhe Thesis Defence: 22.01.2018 Contents Acknowledgements ................................................................................................................................. 5 Thesis Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 6 Part I. Conceptual Approach for Studying Fashion and City: Theoretical Framework ........................ 16 Chapter 1. Fashion in the city ................................................................................................................ 16 Introduction ....................................................................................................................................... 16 1.1. Fashion concepts in the perspective ........................................................................................... 18 1.1.1. Imitation and differentiation ................................................................................................ 18 1.1.2. Identity -
The War and Fashion
F a s h i o n , S o c i e t y , a n d t h e First World War i ii Fashion, Society, and the First World War International Perspectives E d i t e d b y M a u d e B a s s - K r u e g e r , H a y l e y E d w a r d s - D u j a r d i n , a n d S o p h i e K u r k d j i a n iii BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK 1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA 29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published in Great Britain 2021 Selection, editorial matter, Introduction © Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian, 2021 Individual chapters © their Authors, 2021 Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as Editors of this work. For legal purposes the Acknowledgments on p. xiii constitute an extension of this copyright page. Cover design by Adriana Brioso Cover image: Two women wearing a Poiret military coat, c.1915. Postcard from authors’ personal collection. This work is published subject to a Creative Commons Attribution Non-commercial No Derivatives Licence. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third- party websites referred to or in this book. -
Virginia Viking May 2019
May 2019 Volume 42 No. 14 VIRGINIA VIKING SONS OF NORWAY HAMPTON ROADS LODGE NO. 3-522 President: Leonard Zingarelli Vice President: Mike Solhaug Secretary: June Cooper Treasurer: Ragnhild Zingler The President’s Corner MAY 16, 2019 Membership Meeting at Bayside We are quickly approaching another summer season. Since so Presbyterian Church at 7:30 pm. many of us are away or doing outside activities during the The program is “the First Shot – Norwegians sink the German summer, we always change up our lodge’s routine a little to Heavy Cruiser SMS Bucher. accommodate. For example, we do not hold any business lodge meetings during the summer and suspend our Virginia May 17, 2019 Viking newsletter. Lay Flowers at Forest Lawn Both will resume in September. We do however continue to hold monthly Cemetery at 10:45 am. Membership Lunch at noon at Board meetings that are opened to the general membership. These board Freemason Abbey Restaurant in meeting dates and times can be found on our lodge’s schedule of events. With Norfolk. only a few weeks left in this spring season, the lodge does have several events that you would enjoy. Starting with the Laying of the Flowers at the Forest Lawn May 23, 2019 Cemetery in Norfolk. A remarkable story and how we honor two Norwegian Norwegian National Day Celebration at the Princess Anne sailors that died and buried in Norfolk back during World War Two. We are also Country Club in Virginia Beach. invited to attend the celebration of the Norwegian National Day at Princess Hosted by the Norwegian Nato Anne Country Club. -
Presenting the Fashion Object: Analyzing the Exhibition Fashioning the Object: Bless, Boudicca, Sandra Backlund
Western University Scholarship@Western Electronic Thesis and Dissertation Repository 6-3-2014 12:00 AM Presenting the Fashion Object: Analyzing the exhibition Fashioning the Object: Bless, Boudicca, Sandra Backlund Elyse N. Tsotsos The University of Western Ontario Supervisor Bridget J. Elliott The University of Western Ontario Graduate Program in Art History A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the equirr ements for the degree in Master of Arts © Elyse N. Tsotsos 2014 Follow this and additional works at: https://ir.lib.uwo.ca/etd Recommended Citation Tsotsos, Elyse N., "Presenting the Fashion Object: Analyzing the exhibition Fashioning the Object: Bless, Boudicca, Sandra Backlund" (2014). Electronic Thesis and Dissertation Repository. 2093. https://ir.lib.uwo.ca/etd/2093 This Dissertation/Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by Scholarship@Western. It has been accepted for inclusion in Electronic Thesis and Dissertation Repository by an authorized administrator of Scholarship@Western. For more information, please contact [email protected]. PRESENTING THE FASHION OBJECT: ANALYZING THE EXHIBITION FASHIONING THE OBJECT, BLESS, BOUDICCA, SANDRA BACKLUND (Thesis format: Monograph) by Elyse Tsotsos Graduate Program in Visual Arts A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Masters of Art History The School of Graduate and Postdoctoral Studies The University of Western Ontario London, Ontario, Canada © Elyse Nicole Tsotsos 2014 Abstract This thesis discusses methods of display taken up by fashion designers Bless, Boudicca and Sandra Backlund, as seen in the museum exhibit of their work, Fashioning the Object, held at the Art Institute of Chicago from April 14 to September 16, 2012.