T·he Use and Alteration $? Com.mercial .Patterns

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EXTENSION SERVICE STATE COLLEGr:# WASHINCJTON PULLMAN WASHl.NGTON

No.78 FEBRUARY I 9.2.2 RctiS Use and Alterations of Commercial Patterns Helen K. Robson Instructor, College of Home Economics

Commercial patterns may be purchased for almost any garment desired. As they are according to a series of average measure­ ments irregularities in a person's figure are not taken into account. Waist patterns are purchased according to the bust measure, which should lbe taken around the fullest part of the bust. If the bust measure of the comes in even sizes as 34, 36, or 38, and the bust measure of the person is 35, 37 or 39, it is usually best to choose the next larger size of pattern, unless the bust is very large in proportion to the rest of the figure. Skirt patterns are chosen according to hip measures, which should be taken around the fullest part of the hips from five to seven inches below the waist ·une. Small Children's patterns are usually purchased according to the age of the child.

Study of Patterns As an opened pattern cannot be returned, it is well to read the directions carefully before opening. All pieces of the pattern should be studied and a general idea formed of the way in which they are to go together before any cutting is done. Pieces that are not to be used should be placed back in the envelope. Study the guide chart, if there is one, so as to help in laying the pattern on the material in the most economical way. Make note of and allowances, of notches for joinings, and of perforations for straight of material and for placing on folded edges. The position of notches should be marked by a basting of colored or by using a or chalk. Do not cut notches in the material as "Too generous notches sometimes made by a slip of the may make serious difficulty."

3 Testing Patterns Commercial patterns should be measured up with the individual measures of the person, and wherever possible, all corrections should be made on the paper pattern before cutting. Do not include seam allowances in the measurement of the pattern. The altered pattern should then be cut from some unexpensive material, such as a dis­ carded night gown or skirt, to make sure that all lines are correct before cutting into the material itself.

Alteration of Patterns The waist, , and skirt will be considered. Any other part of the pattern, such as collars, cuffs, bands, and belts are determined later by choice and are dependent for size on alterations made in the pattern itself.

WAISTS

To increase bust measure, back and front, slash pattern in a straight line from center of shoul­ der down through waist line. Then separate the pieces the de­ sired amount so as to give 14 of --1 the whole amount needed in both I back and front. (Fig. 1)

To decrease bust measure, back and front, lay a fold on both pieces of the pattern on a line drawn from the center of the shoulder through to waist line. This fold should take up %, of the amount needed to be decreased on both back and front. (Fig. 2) To lengthen waist, back and front, cut the pattern through about two inches above waist line and separate the desired amount, which is determined by length of underarm measurement. (Fig. 3.)

In most cases this is sufficient, but if the figure is long from underarm to neck, it is necessary also to cut the pattern half way between underarm and neck and separate the desired amount. (Fig. 4)

To shorten waist, back and front, fold pattern about two in­ ches above waist line, taking up extra length. If the person is short, place a fold across chest line, taking up the desired amount. (Fig. 5)

6 Other Alterations

The neck should be measured and if too large, the line may be altered by raising it a bit. (Fig. 6) If too small, it may be cut down at the time of fitting.

The armseye, if too large, may be changed by raising the line underarm in both front and back and making a new curve. (Fig. 7) If t oo small, it may be cut out at the time of fitting.

For rouud shouldet"s, cut the back of the pattern above the bust line, starting at center back and extend­ ing almost to armhole. Separate edges made by cut enough to allow for the extra length required for the round shoulders. (Fig. 8) This will add extra width at the waist line, but this is not objectionable for it will prevent a drawn look across the back and' detract from the full appearance of the shoulders.

6 Sloping shoulders cause diagonal wrinkles from shoulder to armhole. This is best corrected when fitting is done, but may be altered on the pattern. Shoulder seams should be taken up at point of shoulder and gradually sloped to neck, the armseye is then cut out to make up for uptake at shoulder. (Fig. 9)

The same principles are applied to the tight fitted waist as to the shirt waist. Often the necessary increase or decrease in bust or waist can be made by letting out or taking up the seams. Since there are so many seams this can be done very easily.

SLEEVES Follow the same general principles outlined for waists in making longer or shorter, narrower or wider. Cut or fold the pattern about 4 inches above or 4 inches below elbow for long sleeve. (Fig. 10) ~ \ I D n7. 10

For fleshy arm alter slope of seam line by starting at the top of the sleeve seam and carry­ ing the line downward, gradually letting it run off to nothing as it n ears the elbow. (Fig. 11)

fi~. 11 7 SKIRTS To increase both waist and hip, cut the pat­ tern on each from waist to hem and sepa­ rate the pieces the desired amount. (Fig. 12)

Fi~ . 12

To decrease both waist and hip, fold each gore from waist to hem, taking out from each the amount desired. (Fig 13)

Fl~ 13

To lengthen pattern, cut gores across 12 inches from waist and separate the desired amount. (Fig. 14)

8 To shorten p.attern, lay a fold in the pattern across each gore, 12 inches from waist and shorten it the desired amount. (Fig. 15)

To increase waist, add the necessary amount to each gore at the top, letting the line slant from the new points made for waist to hiP ~ (Fig. 16)

F;q. 16

To increase hip, add the necessary amount at hip line and draw a new line from new hip point

to waist and from hip to bottom of pattern ~ (Fig. 17) -t

9 ___ , For prominent abdomen, a tuck about 1,4 inch deep is taken in the back of the side front gore at hip, tapering to nothing as it nears the front. This will throw the full­ ness into the front side of the gore and prevent the whole skirt from pushing forward at the bottom. It is often necessary to add to the top of the front and side front F;q 18 gores, sloping to less at the back of the gores. The waist measures must also be increased. (Fig 18) Reduce' fullness at bottom of sldrt by taking off the desired amount on the bias side of each gore.

Placing Pattern Many standard patterns are now provided with a guide chart to help in placing the pieces of the pattern on tlie material in the most economical way. Study this well before cutting; it may 9ave time, money, and material in the end. If there is no chart to follow, try different arrangements of the pieces until the most economical one is found. Lay all pieces of the pattern on the cloth with regard to of material. Do not the pattern in place until an eco­ nomical placing has been found. The nap in materials should run toward the bottom of the skirt, while velvets, plushes, and corduroys, the pile should run upward. The one exception is panne velvet. An irregular plaid can rarely be used on the bias without great waste of material.

AU plaids and stripes should be matched. This usually takes more m-aterial but is absolutely essential in order not to break the design of the fabric. Up and down patterns should be noted and all pieces placed the same so as not to spoil the design. Warp threads should run up and down in skirts, waists, and sleeves, and around in 1belts, bands, and cuffs.

10 Published and distributed in furthera11ce of the act of May 8, 1914, by the State College of Washington, Extension Service, S. B. Nelson, Director, and U. S. Depart­ ment of Aiiieulture cooperating.