TUSCANY LAND OF ART AND MOTORS

The itineraries of “Travelling in Tuscany”

itineraries on two wheels first itinerary · Castiglione d’Orcia – Radicofani – Sarteano – Chianciano itineraries on two wheels Montepulciano – Pienza – San Quirico d’Orcia – Castiglione d’Orcia

Castiglione d’Orcia / Radicofani / Sarteano / Chianciano / Montepulciano / Pienza / San Quirico d’Orcia / Castiglione d’Orcia first itinerary

A ring that will take you through sever- al towns and villages but above all to ride among a maze of unique streets that will enable you to give free rein to your passion for two wheels. This is one of the best-loved routes on which various motorbike clubs from all over Eu- rope gather. It is quite normal to come across columns of bikers riding along these roads in single file who appreciate the continuous ups and downs and curves that characterize them. There are many strips at the side of the road to take a break and immortalize the land- scape as you gradually discover it.

2 3 first itinerary · Castiglione d’Orcia – Radicofani – Sarteano – Chianciano itineraries on two wheels Montepulciano – Pienza – San Quirico d’Orcia – Castiglione d’Orcia

CASTIGLIONE D’ORCIA (SI) with its Renaissance-era well decorated Perched on a spur of the slopes of Monte with Griffins and Lions, other noble resi- Amiata, a stone’s throw from the Cassia dences, and the Duomo (Cathedral). main road, the town is located at the The late-Renaissance Duomo has an centre of the Val d’Orcia, since 2004 part unclad façade. The interior features of the UNESCO World Heritage, whose three naves, and on the main altar is a unmistakable landscape was celebrated grandiose triptych of the Assumption with unparalleled works by painters of by Taddeo di Bartolo. To the left of the the Sienese School. entrance portal is a recumbent statue of Bartolomeo Aragazzi by Michelozzo. The first records date back to714 when At number 10 Via Ricci, in Palazzo Neri it was a possession of the Aldobran- Orselli, is the Civic Museum and the deschi family and was called Petra. Crociani Art Gallery. A stroll through its fascinating contra- The Medicean Fortress:erected in das reveals its treasures: 1261, it was destroyed and rebuilt sev- · Piazza il Vecchietta, the heart of the old eral times, the last reconstruction being town, with its unusual triangular shape. realization. The result is a place in har- CHIANCIANO (SI) attributed to Antonio da Sangallo the It is dedicated to the local 15th-century mony with nature within which an ini- The clock tower with its Medici coat Elder. painter Lorenzo di Pietro nicknamed “Il tiatory-esoteric path develops, a throw- of arms is the symbol of this town of Outside the walls of the old town sits the Vecchietta”. Lying on a slope and paved back to Luchini’s Masonic background. an innate elegance which is also one of Church of San Biagio, a masterpiece with rough stone cobblestones, its centre the most famous spa resorts in Italy. The with a Greek cross plan by Antonio da features a well in travertine. The square is SARTEANO (SI) wide-ranging benefits of its waters were Sangallo the Elder. overlooked by the Palazzo del Comune – Once again it is the Castle that domi- already appreciated by the Etruscans and On a gastronomic note: the Vino Nobile RADICOFANI (SI) the Town Hall – which preserves inside six arches was used as a post station nates the landscape and captures the gaze Romans. In the local Archaeological di Montepulciano is one of the three a fresco of the Sienese School Madonna It is the imposing fortress that domi- and to change horses up until the late at the place that gave birth to Francesco Museum are numerous discoveries ex- most renowned Italian wines in the and Child with Two Saints. nates this small town and is its emblem. 19th century. In its heyday, it welcomed Todeschini Piccolomini, the future Pope hibited as testimony to the ancient pres- world, along with Chianti and Brunello The building owes its fame toGhino Popes, Grand Dukes, Emperors and il- · The San Giovanni “Art Room” in the Pius III. The town dates back to 1038 but ences. In the Parco delle Terme, the two di Montalcino. It is a supreme accom- di Tacco the “Gentleman Bandit” who lustrious personages such as Casanova, former church of the homonymous con- in the second half of the 15th century it Acquasanta springs – Fonte Acqua San- paniment for the typical local cuisine: lived in the 1200s and was mentioned the Marquis De Sade, Stendhal, Cha- fraternity keeps precious paintings by underwent a total makeover according ta and Fonte Acqua Fucoli, are the best dry-cured ham, crostini, bruschetta, pici, by both Dante and Boccaccio. Inside teaubriand, Dickens and many others. some of the most important exponents to the dictates of the Renaissance and to known. Be sure to try the Sensory Spa. and pappardelle with hare sauce (sugo di the Cassero Museum are archaeological · The Medicean Fountain from the of the Sienese school: Pietro Lorenzetti, which “Il Vecchietta” also contributed. A The old town unfolds in a typical me- lepre). finds from the Etruscan age to the 1500s. 1600s. Simone Martini, “Il Vecchietta”, Giovan- spiral staircase with 134 steps in traver- dieval layout. Well worth a visit is the Five kilometres away from Chianciano Any stopover in Radicofani cannot ig- · The “Bosco Isabella” Romantic Gar- ni di Paolo… tine stone spans the whole building con- Church of the Immacolata, with its fres- are some spa baths – the Terme di Mon- nore: den exists thanks to the great passion necting the top floor to the ground floor. co of the Madonna della Pace, Palazzo · TheParish Church of Santo Stefano tepulciano. · TheChurch of Sant’Agata whose ori- for “English” gardens of the Garibaldian Today it is a venue for cultural initiatives De Vegni, and the Collegiate Church The Natural Reserve of the Lake of e Santa Degna conserves a painting by gins lie in the 1300s. Inside, adorning Odoardo Luchini, and his wife Isabella. and events. with its precious Crucifix by the school Montepulciano is one of the most impor- Piero Lorenzetti. the reredos of the main altar is a Della Their daughter Matilde continued the The Piazza Bassa (Bargagli) and the Pi- of Duccio di Boninsegna, and the Art tant wetlands of Central Italy covering an · The Church of Santa Maria Maddale- Robbia masterpiece in glazed terracotta azza Alta (XXIV Giugno) are connected Museum. area of around 300 hectares. na is located outside the old town. Of a Madonna with Child and Saints. by the Mezzo gate, and a short ramp in- medieval layout with a single space, a · TheChurch of San Pietro from the corporated in the Palazzo del Comune, MONTEPULCIANO (SI) PIENZA (SI) semicircular apse, and a characteristic 10th century is another treasure chest of which contains a real architectural gem, The Corso, the main street, leads to the This was the city of Pius II, born Enea bell-gable. artworks. the Teatro degli Arrischianti. real heart of the monumental old town: Silvio Piccolomini, a cultured and re- · TheAldobrandesca Fortress overshad- · The Palazzo Pretorio, now the Town Also the Church of San Martino pre- Piazza Grande. Here on the last Sunday fined humanist who conceived it philo- ows the town with its medieval form- Hall. For centuries, this was the seat of serves a real gem, from 1546, the work of August, representatives of the town’s sophically and stylistically as a program- work. the Captains of Justice whose coat of of the Sienese Mannerist Beccafumi. eight contradas challenge one another by matic manifesto of the Renaissance. The best-known monument of the terri- arms hang on the façade. Not far from the road that leads to Radi- rolling barrels up a slope. The square is In three and a half years, from 1459 to tory of Castiglione d’Orcia is the Tower · TheMedici “Osteria Grossa” is locat- cofani lie the remains of the village of overlooked by the Palazzo Comunale, 1462, Bernardo Rossellino and other of the Tentennano Fortress which dom- ed along the road called Francigena or Moiane which is tied to the legend of clad in travertine, from whose tower you famous artists transformed the ancient inates the small medieval village of Roc- Romea. This imposing 16th-century the “Strascico della Regina” [a strip of can admire a breath-taking panorama, village of Corsignano into a refined city, ca d’Orcia. building featuring a double loggia with land where nothing grows]. the Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo an Ideal City, a Utopian City.

4 5 first itinerary · Castiglione d’Orcia – Radicofani – Sarteano – Chianciano itineraries on two wheels Montepulciano – Pienza – San Quirico d’Orcia – Castiglione d’Orcia

illumination inside. ture-postcard landscape. · The Episcopal Palace (Palazzo Borgia) Here encamped Frederick Barbarossa in in which there is the Museum of the Di- 1154, and in 1228 Frederick II held court ocese with its treasures. here. · Palazzo Piccolomini, the papal resi- In its ancient heart is the Collegiate dence, with its beautiful loggia overlook- Church of Santi Quirico e Giulitta a ing a hanging garden. beautiful example of Romanesque art. · ThePalazzo Civico designed by Ros- Next to it rises Palazzo Chigi, designed sellino, with it large airy porch on the in the 17th century by Carlo Fontana, ground floor bestowing lightness. currently the Town Hall. On Corso Rossellino is located the Again in the old town, the Horti Leonini Church of San Francesco. are a fine example of an Italian garden, From Via del Castello there is a splendid built towards the end of the 1500s by Di- The centre and fulcrum is Piazza Pio II, view over the Val d’Orcia. omede Leoni. overlooked by all the main monuments: Near Pienza, nestling in a fascinating From here we can reach the Rose Gar- · The Duomo preserves in its interi- landscape, can be found the splendid Ro- den adjacent to the Romanesque church or Gothic-style paintings on wood manesque Parish Church of Corsignano. of Santa Maria Assunta. by some of the greatest artists of the The Church of San Francesco on the time: Giovanni di Paolo, Matteo di SAN QUIRICO D’ORCIA (SI) main square, known popularly as the Giovanni, “Il Vecchietta”, and others. Some have defined this “the real capi- Church of the Madonna, preserves a Gothic windows along the walls and tal” of the Val d’Orcia. And to be hon- beautiful Madonna by Andrea della around the apse confer an evocative est, it is immersed in the centre of a pic- Robbia.

6 7 itineraries on two wheels 2017/2018 second itinerary · Castiglione d’Orcia – Bagni S. Filippo – Abbadia S. Salvatore – Santa Fiora – Castiglione d’Orcia

Castiglione d’Orcia / Bagni S. Filippo / Abbadia S. Salvatore / Santa Fiora / Castiglione d’Orcia second itinerary

This itinerary takes us through one of the many areas abounding in thermal waters, and to the highest point of Tuscany. The particular limestone content has meant that these waters formed natural “con- structions” of incredible beauty, almost like stalactites under the open sky. A small de- tour takes us to Mount Amiata, the highest mountain of this territory, over 1,700m in height, with amenities for both summer and winter. A break at one of the refuges at the top is a must to taste some of the best dishes in Tuscany. Another place that is striking- ly beautiful is Santa Fiora, defined one of the most beautiful hamlets in Italy. But the whole route is destined to arouse great emo- tions and sensations.

8 9 itineraries on two wheels 2017/2018 second itinerary · Castiglione d’Orcia – Bagni S. Filippo – Abbadia S. Salvatore – Santa Fiora – Castiglione d’Orcia

BAGNI SAN FILIPPO (SI) surroundings of exalting beauty. The most important monument is the Located between the Val d’Orcia and With an excursion of around 12 kilometres Parish Church of Sante Flora e Lucilla, Monte Amiata, this village, a hamlet of you can reach the summit of Mount Ami- the two patron saints. Conceivably built Castiglione d’Orcia, has been famous ata along a sinuous path between woods of before the year One Thousand, it under- since ancient times for its hot thermal chestnut and pine trees, and holm oaks. At went renovation in the 13th century and waters that have given rise to a unique, the end of the road, at an altitude of 1,651 at the end of the 18th century was en- fairy-tale landscape made up of water- metres, where you can find hotels and res- larged. Inside are kept beautiful terracot- falls, white limestone formations, and taurants, you can continue on foot to reach ta sculptures attributed to Andrea della small ponds in which to enjoy a bathe the summit of Mount at 1,738 meters, with Robbia. among the greenery. An inviting path its monumental iron latticework cross. The Porticciola gives access to the Ter- buried in the woods leads to the Bale- ziere Borgo with the Convent of the na Bianca (White Whale) waterfall, so SANTA FIORA (GR) Poor Clares, and the Church of Santa named for this limestone formation’s Considered one of the most beautiful villag- Chiara, the Augustinian Convent of similarity to the mouth of the great ceta- es in Italy. An ideal place to stay. Perched at San Michele Arcangelo the Church of cean. Here flow the hottest waters which around 700 metres on a cliff of trachyte near Sant’Agostino and the Jewish Ghetto. Fi- gush from the nearby spring at 48°C. This Mount Amiata, it dominates the source of nally, from Porta San Michele we enter is the most attractive limestone forma- the Fiora River. The waters of the river feed the Terziere Montecatino characterized tion of the Fosso Bianco, a torrent within the Peschiera (fish farm) inside a wooded by the presence of the Peschiera, which the woods filled by various warm water park among ancient buildings. The village collects water from the springs of the Fio- springs in a pattern of ponds in which it is divided into various quarters (terzieri) all ra River. Originally, it may have been a is possible to swim and make the most of worth discovering on a stroll through the nursery for trout of the Aldobrandeschi the mud that is deposited there through- lanes and characteristic streets. TheTerziere family, and then became part of the Re- out the year. del Castello is the oldest part: in the centre naissance park-garden desired by the The San Filippo Thermal Bathswith is the Piazza, and a Clock Tower from the Sforza family. their hotel, restaurant, swimming pool, 1600s, the medieval Rocca Aldobrandesca, Recessed into the wall of the Peschiera is spa, and wellness centre are a favourite and the Palazzo Comitale Cesarini Sforza the Church of the Madonna delle Nevi destination for relaxing and regenerative which on the ground floor houses the Mer- built above the source of the Fiora river, stays. cury Mine Museum. visible under the building’s glass floor.

ABBADIA SAN SALVATORE (SI) At about 800 meters a.s.l. on the Sienese slopes of Mount Amiata, this is one of the most important and best-equipped lo- cal resorts for both winter and summer stays. It takes its name from the Bene- dictine Abbey of San Salvatore founded in 743 by the Lombard King Rachis, ac- cording to tradition, of which remain the church, rebuilt in Romanesque style in 1036, portions of the walls, and the crypt, the latter of considerable interest with its 36 columns remarkable for their form, decoration, and variety of capitals. Thedoor of the Badia gives access to the small medieval town with its Gothic and medieval houses, its churches, and the former 15th-century Town Hall. From Abbadia San Salvatore leaves a circular route of 64km that circumnavi- gates Amiata in a landscape and natural

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Texts and images by Nando Carrega and Franca Spallarossa Drivers Valerio Boni and Valentina Bruno Graphics and page layout Sagep Editori, Genova Translation Alex Gillan

©2018 Toscana Promozione Turistica www.toscanapromozione.it

Editorial initiative carried out as part of the inter-regional project “Land of Motors - cultural and scientific itineraries of Italy’s motoring heritage.” 2005-2009