BY JIM CLARKE CHIANTI 101

However, it’s important to distinguish be- homas Jefferson, World War II soldiers, Hannibal Lecter: tween the Chianti DOCG and the Chi- all appreciated a good Chianti. While Chianti has long anti Classico DOCG; the latter, home to been popular in the U.S.—Americans drink more than higher quality wines and a longer pedi- a quarter of Chianti’s annual production—it sometimes gree, is smaller, confined to a set of hills Tfaces a Rodney Dangerfield-like lack of respect. between those two cities. The larger Chianti zone is sub-divided into seven other zones, which are begin- It’s their own fault. The question that WHERE IT’S MADE ning to distinguish themselves. Chianti has never settled on is whether it’s Tuscany; the bulk of the Chianti region a brand, or a region. Many large producers stretches from Florence down past Siena. GRAPES: push for the easy brand recognition to move Sangiovese reigns supreme; Chianti, cheaper, often rustic wine; more premium alongside Brunello di Montalcino and producers, particularly in Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, is the argue for a terroir-based wine, as shown by grape’s most famous home. Chianti the recent push to officially recognize the DOCG wines must contain a minimum DOCG’s subzones. It’s a hard slog—getting of 70% Sangiovese; international variet- lazy Americans to simply remember to say FLORENCE ies (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, “Classico” is challenge enough—but many etc.) are permitted, as are local varieties top producers are forging ahead. CHIANTI like Canaiolo Nero, Colorino, and nota- In any case, Chianti continues to DOCG work on the shelf, and at the table. Out- CHIANTI SIENA CLASSICO t Chianti Classico is effectively the center of lets with stretched service staff can rely on DOCG the Chianti region, which in fact is now also the Chianti name to sell itself with many further demarcated into subzones. The most of their customers, and venues with a important subzones are Rùfina, Colli Senesi and more hands-on approach can recommend Colli Fiorentini; others, seen less frequently in a well-aged boutique example with con- TUSCANY the U.S., include Colline Pisane, Colli Aretini, Montalbano and Montespertoli fidence. Whether you treat it as a work- ABOVE: Like many Tuscan estates today, Tenuta di horse or a thoroughbred, Chianti, as a Nozzole makes IGT Toscana wine as well as DOCG whole, adapts with equanimity. Chianti Classico, Riserva and Gran Selezione wines. bly, the whites Malvasia del Chianti and Pairings: Typically lighter bodied, Trebbiano Toscano. with firm acidity and tannins, Chiantis Chianti Classico calls for a minimum are quite flexible at the table. While 80% of Sangiovese and also allows other the tannins can be too much for sea- local and international varieties, but no food, Chianti is a red that stands up to white varieties. even red meat without being too full- While the addition of international bodied or heavy, lending itself to sum- varieties, first permitted in 1996, meant mer grilling, for example. They work Chianti could make darker colored, riper, well with many vegetables (mush- rounder wines in the so-called “interna- rooms, eggplants, etc.) and of course, tional style,” many producers feel even the acidity makes it great with tomato small additions of varieties like Cabernet sauces and pizza. Sauvignon and Merlot overwhelm the Sangiovese is a workhorse grape all over Tuscany; clones of the variety also drive the character of Brunello character of Sangiovese, and are turning di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Ageability: For novice drinkers who toward 100% Sangiovese wines or blends want to take their first steps toward un- with only small amounts of the traditional derstanding aged wine, Chianti Classico varieties Colorino and Canaiolo. Medici, the Grand Duke or Chianti Rufina can make a great, af- of Tuscany, legislated fordable starting point. CHIANTI CLASSICO that four villages de- fine the official pro- duction zone (all four 70% 80% lie within the Classico FUN FACTS MINIMUM PERCENTAGE OF region today). Late in the SANGIOVESE GRAPES REQUIRED following century, Barone Ricasoli would articulate a preferred blend for the wines, Once upon a time, the fiasco, placing Sangiovese firmly at the core of a straw-wrapped flask, faci- HISTORY: Chianti wines. lited transport of Chianti to Early mentions of Chianti, both as a re- In the mid 20th century, the Italian market by wagon, as there gion and as a wine, go back to at least government in effect allowed Chianti were no navigable water- th the 13 century. In 1716 Cosimo III de to be defined as a style, not a region; ways until one reached the Chianti Classico consortium came Florence. Only in 1969 did Bordeaux-style bottles sur- together as a direct reaction against TERMS TO KNOW passed the fiasco in use the new law. Regulations tightened in 1984, when Chianti and Chianti RISERVA: indicates a minimum of Unlike many classic wine regions, Classico became DOCGs, and again two years aging before release. Chianti Classico is not densely in 1996, when, among other changes, planted with vines; the region GRAN SELEZIONE: Introduced yield requirements were tightened and 177,500 acres, but less of a tenth of in 2014, this new category requires white grapes were no longer required in that is actually vineyards. longer aging—30 months—and the blend. must be made with estate fruit. Unofficially these wines represent The Black Rooster on Chi- single-vineyard “crus,”expressly SELLING POINTS anti Classico bottles was because of the extra attention originally the symbol of given to the wines. By-the-Glass: Most the Lega del Chianti, wines from centuries- comprised of the towns SUPERIORE: Only used for the old, classic regions Castellina, Radda, and Chianti DOCG; indicates a minimum come in at high price Gaiole. The Chianti Clas- alcohol of 12.5% (rarely relevant today, sico Consortium began using it as points, but many since few Chiantis come in below this). their trademark in 1924. highly-regarded Chi- GOVERNO: indicates wine went antis, and even Chi- Three soil types dominate Chianti: through an additional fermentation on anti Classicos, are •Galestro (friable clay schist) dried grapes, similar to Valpolicella available at by-the- Ripasso. Done to strengthen the wine •Albarese (marl) glass prices. and kick off malolactic fermentation. •Macigno (sandstone)