Panel tasting CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA & GRAN SELEZIONE 2015 & 2016 In Tuscany’s Sangiovese heartland, in one of the world’s most celebrated wine regions, what is it that distinguishes its two highest-quality categories from the rest? Monty Waldin explains Although Chianti CHIANTI CLASSICO: Arno Florence Classico DOCG KNOW YOUR VINTAGES Gran Selezione A1 represents a mere N 2018 Cool, drizzly season. (but rising) 6% of 222 A1 Grapes battled for light, heat, A total production in Tuscany’s hydration. Extended, grinding Chianti Classico region, its worth harvest. Mainly short-haul wines. and even its very existence are S. CASCIANO IN CHIANTI VAL DI PESA CLASSICO under scrutiny and still a source of 0 5 10 2017 Spring frost nipped the Greve in debate. Plenty of notable voices, kilometres Chianti GREVE IN buds. Dry weather then shrivelled CHIANTI TAVARNELLE more in the wine media than the VAL DI PESA what grapes remained. Yields 27% Panzano trade, see its creation from early BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA down compared to the average, 2014 as a needless additional ‘top’ RADDA IN CHIANTI but reasonably balanced wines. POGGIBONSI CHIANTI COLLI ARETINI tier, an extra layer of complication 429 222 Drink 2020-2023. when wine in general and Italian Castellina 406 ITALY in Chianti GAIOLE wine in particular is complicated Florence CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI 2016 Summer sometimes IN CHIANTI enough as it is. CHIANTI scorching. Cooler spells and Pisa CLASSICO Compared to Chianti Classico 222 pre-harvest rain crucial. DOCG Riserva, Gran Selezione Siena CHIANTI CASTELNUOVO Some brilliant, vibrant, sleek, Sea TUSCANY COLLI BERARDENGA wines have to wait an extra six Ligurian Perugia SENESI 100%-Sangiovese gems. Wines months (30 as opposed to 24) ELBA Siena with even 5% Merlot noticeably before going to market, so they weedier. Drink 2020-2030. have a little bit more bottle age. So far, so sensible, but hardly This is important because the 2015 Large crop. Some very earth-shattering. Chianti Classico production zone CHIANTI CLASSICO: hot days, cool nights. Those who Gran Selezione’s trump card, provides Sangiovese (85%-100% avoided roasted grapes made THE FACTS its supporters argue, is that wines in all Chianti Classico styles) with rich, round wines. Long-haul must be made solely from grapes a perfect playground, offering Vineyard area 7,080ha potential. Drink 2020-2035. 100% grown, fermented and warm enough conditions for Communes Nine, between bottled by the producer whose grape sugar (alcohol) ripeness, a Florence and Siena: Radda in 2014 Cool, goose-bump name appears on the label. Wines long growing season for textural Chianti, Gaiole in Chianti, vintage. Cloudy skies. Tightrope from rented vines whose grapes ripeness, and cool nights for full Greve in Chianti, Castellina in viticulture. Umbrellas ubiquitous. are farmed and fermented by the aroma and flavour expression. Chianti; parts of Barberino Dusty wines indicate compromised named producer are permitted. Trends for the region as a Val d’Elsa, Castelnuovo fruit. The best show unassuming, whole include the continuing shift Berardenga, San Casciano in crunchy fluidity. Drink. Positive moves to organics – about 40% of Val di Pesa, Tavarnelle Val di Chianti Classico and Chianti vineyards are certified organic, Pesa and Poggibonsi 2013 Vines were sleepy in Classico Riserva, in contrast, can compared to less than 10% Producers (Chianti Classico spring, sunbathed all summer, be made from purchased grapes, globally. The pristine, manicured DOCG) 315 then kept their cool into late wine or both; as can Tuscan titans Chianti vineyard is giving way to Production (Chianti Classico autumn. Some super wines, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino something scruffier, as native wild DOCG) Some 36m bottles on bright, and both supple and Nobile di Montepulciano and plants or sown cover crops are average annually, 2008-2018 crunchy. Drink 2020-2028. Morellino di Scansano, DOCGs all. encouraged, to protect soils from – about four times that of And because oak ageing is erosive torrents of heat or rain. Brunello di Montalcino optional for all Chianti Classico The gradual waning of wines (yes, Italy does have its share importance in blends of showy of very sensible wine legislation), but heat-sensitive, climate not only re-emerge but can assert it means Gran Selezione (or change-averse international their valuable bit-part role in ‘Chianti Classico Select’, as it varieties such as Merlot is also wines whose ‘conscious Monty Waldin is DWWA Regional would be called in California) is apparent, as historic names like uncoupling’ from Cabernet and Chair for Tuscany and a widely Map: Maggie Nelson Maggie Map: not an oaky monster by default. Canaiolo, Colorino and Malvasia Merlot is underway. published wine writer and author ➢ Decanter • May 2020 | 85 Panel tasting Chianti Classico Riserva and Gran Selezione 2015 & 2016 THE VERDICT OUTSTANDING 95–97pts This line-up of top-tier Chianti Classico from 2015 and 2016 impressed our judges, who praised the freshness and accessbility of the wines despite the warm vintages. Amy Wislocki reports wo very warm vintages, era – all about power and concentration, THE SCORES and an expectation that and dark fruits,’ said Fiordelli. ‘What made 201 wines tasted 2016 would be the better ‘I think Bordeaux has moved away Exceptional 0 Castello di Ama, San Lorenzo, Chianti Frescobaldi, Tenuta Perano, Chianti performer of the two. And from oak more swiftly and more Outstanding 4 2016 stand out 95 AF 95 AJ 95 MW 95 indeed, the results seem to comprehensively than Tuscany,’ Highly Classico Gran Selezione 2016 Classico Riserva 2016 Tbear this out. All four Outstanding Jefford interjected. ‘Quite often in this Recommended 61 Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: £29.50-£55 Cellar Door Wines, Exel, Hallgarten Wines, Vinvm was the vivacity wines are from 2016, and the lion’s tasting, the oak was a hurdle to climb Recommended 123 Aldo Fiordelli 96 Andrew Jefford 95 Monty Waldin 95 From Gaiole, with free-draining soils, the land has formed a natural share of the Highly Recommended over, which it shouldn’t be. I don’t and freshness of Commended 13 £51.50-£55 Millésima, Vinissimo amphitheatre with southwest-facing slopes at 500m. The 2016 vintage wines. ‘It’s better, and more consistent,’ think any wine needs exaggerated oak Fair 0 From the 25.5ha San Lorenzo vineyard, which, at 466m-525m, was one produced intensely aromatic, structured wines. After hand-harvesting, observed Aldo Fiordelli, with Monty in its youth in order to have a the wines’ Poor 0 of the first to be acquired by the company in 1972, after it was founded the wine was fermented in stainless steel with regular breaking of the Waldin agreeing: ‘2016 is a better successful maturity. I’d like to see less Faulty 0 by a group of friends. Sangiovese, Merlot and Malvasia Nera are vinified cap, before being transferred to Slavonian oak barrels for 24 months. Andrew Jefford vintage than 2015 for two reasons. use of new oak, and more use of older separately and combined after malolactic fermentation. The wine is AF Dense on the palate with silky ripe tannins, cherry fruit and a Firstly, because it was actually a oak, earthenware, concrete.’ ‘I think then transferred to barriques, 18% of which are new, for 10 months. concentration of darker fruit, along with perfectly integrated structure. better vintage. And secondly, because the trend now is towards larger oak,’ Aldo Fiordelli Restrained cherry fruit allied to a chalky minerality, A great wine, with great potential. people learned from the mistakes they said Waldin. ‘But it will take a while to completely change the expression of powerful yet elegant on the palate, layered with violet and Earl Grey had made in 2015 and corrected them filter through. If producers have paid the wine. ‘I’m not against those blends AJ Sweet and elegant aromas: fine leather, fresh red fruits, bay leaf, flavours, followed by velvety and grainy youthful tannins. in 2016. So it’s a double-whammy of £500 for a barrel, they need to use it.’ per se,’ he commented, ‘but you do underbrush, a hint of fungi porcini – everything you hope for, quietly goodness, if you like!’ The tasters also discussed the shift lose the sense of place. Tuscany is Andrew Jefford Supple, chocolatey fruits and the scents of sun- expressed. Intense and vibrant: a super wine. More dominated by its Andrew Jefford urged wine from using international varieties in probably the best place for Merlot warmed wood: gentle, sensual and inviting. Close-textured, deep and acidity than many, but that acidity is singingly bright and packed with drinkers not to overlook 2015 though. the blend. ‘There’s an increase in the outside Right Bank Bordeaux, but I’d gently tannic, with classically austere yet inviting fruits, deftly handled. fruit flavour. The tannins are like silk rope: smooth yet ample and ‘There was an awful lot to like in this number of 100%-Sangiovese wines, favour keeping it separate from gathered. Very beautiful and engaging, long, concentrated and intense. Monty Waldin Crunchy tannin and slightly powdery red fruit. Well built enormous tasting, and the many high and a move away from using Sangiovese, which is such a fantastic on the mid-palate with fruit and oak in equal balance. MW Clear, precise ripe red fruit, lovely balance and compactness to this. scores are testament to the high level international grapes,’ said Fiordelli. variety – so protean – that it doesn’t of ambition and achievement in these Waldin agreed with Fiordelli that need the Merlot.’ Drink 2020-2025 Alcohol 13% Drink 2020-2028 Alc 14.5% two vintages. And both of them are native grapes such as Canaiolo and Gran Selezione isn’t a step up from very good vintages, in different ways.