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Home , Babel Island, Badger Island, Franklin Sound, Furneaux Group, Goose Island (Tasmania), Night Island (Tasmania)

Anchorages The part two

The Furneaux Group of to the north east of is a wonderful cruising ground. In the last issue CHRISTINE DANGER introduced us to Flinders . In this article, she gives us a taste for other smaller isles of the group. hen we talk about There are a couple of good sailing in Bass Strait, anchorages in about 3-5m of water most people are over sand, one on the northern shores, surprised to hear that offering E to SW shelter, and one on Bass Strait Anchorages there is actually a lot the eastern shore, called Lucy’s Beach, Wto see ... in fact some 80 islands, many offering SW to NNW shelter. From offering pristine, secluded anchorages. Lucy’s Beach, the view towards the 52 of these islands are part of the and nearby Chappell part two Furneaux Group in eastern Bass Strait. Island is to die for and this is one of our This archipelago is our very favourite favourite anchorages. What is there not cruising ground. Over the years, we to like: the views are panoramic, the have explored many of these islands, fishing is good, beachcombing excellent, every time discovering new anchorages walks ashore scenic. There is a derelict as well as returning to our preferred pier, an abandoned shack, a windmill, spots. In a previous article, we focused a small graveyard, all attesting to active on , the biggest isle of the pastoral life not so long ago. Furneaux Group. This A few nearby islets are time, we are exploring clustered together and a few very different form part of the Badger destinations in the Group, including the more smaller islands of the notable Mount Chappell archipelago. Island (feared for its numerous tiger snakes) Badger Island is and where located opposite the there is a tall lighthouse. western entrance of the So with a little time and the Franklin Sound, a body right weather conditions, of water separating a circumnavigation of Flinders Island from the group can be quite Cape . It interesting. is a low lying granite THUNDER & and limestone island, LIGHTNING BAY – aboriginal owned and extensively grazed. Situated on the Western The island was named shore of Cape Barren after the vessel Island, the large bay of Badget which was Thunder and Lightning wrecked here. The rock formations offers great shelter from NNW to SE along the shores are remarkable, and winds in 2-5m of water over sand and the limestone pavements and granite weed. You can anchor close to the intrusions make this a significant site beach at the northern end of the bay, in Tasmania from a geological point of or anywhere in the centre; the southern view. end has a few large rocks and shoals, so is best avoided. A long sandy beach offers plenty of leg stretch and beachcombing opportunities and there left: Take It Easy anchored in Jamieson Bay, Cape Barren Island. is a fresh water creek at the southern above right: The tall lighthouse of Goose end, not good enough for drinking, but Island, part of the Badger group. fine for replenishing camp shower bags. Contrary to what the name might over sand, offering shelter from W to the right tide and weather conditions to suggest, this is a quiet, peaceful NE, but anywhere along the beach is get across those often rowdy waters. and rather beautiful anchorage. We fine, although it can be more affected by wondered where the daunting name swell. You’ll often see one or two fishing ‘Thunder & Lightning’ came from. Is boats overnighting here. And talking Lying south west of Cape Barren Island in the Furneaux Group, it referring to the foul weather that about fishing, you can catch some Preservation is a low and undulating descends from the nearby hills? Not so flathead here! granite and calcarenite Island. The ... we found out that the name comes Jamieson Bay is a very scenic from a descendant of , Preservation Group also includes the anchorage. At either end of the very long Preservation islets, and Chief of the aboriginal Ben Lomond white beach as well as about half way Tribe. His fourth daughter was called , with similar geology. down, are remarkable granite outcrops Wobberertee, which translates as The Preservation Group is an with the characteristic bright patches ‘Thunderstorm, Thunder and Lightning’. important historic site. The islands were of orange lichen. Behind the beach are The bay is named after her. I bet it was named following the ‘preservation’ of dunes and scrub, and the backdrop of not wise to argue with this woman! the ’s crew, a merchant Mt Kershaw overlooking the entire bay. ship which ran ashore there in It is nice that someone in their wisdom The colours are magnificent: orange February 1797. Neighbouring Rum retained a little of the aboriginal past rocks, white sand, ultramarine ocean, Island was so named because much of Cape Barren Island. Nowadays, grey escarpments. On a clear day, when of the cargo of the Sydney Cove was this island is aboriginal land and a few you look south, the north east coast of rum, and was stored there away from families live in a tiny settlement on the Tasmania is visible. the survivors! During the early 19th north west shore. We often stop at Jamieson on our Century, Preservation Island was a base JAMIESON BAY – way to or from Tassie. This is a handy for sealers hunting for fur seals and CAPE BARREN ISLAND anchorage when contemplating the elephant seals, and was used, as it is At the south east end of Cape Barren crossing of Bank Strait, a body of water now, for grazing cattle. Island is the very beautiful Jamieson separating Cape Barren and Clarke Preservation Island offers good Bay. It has two main anchorages at Islands from the northern coast of protection from light westerly conditions either end of the bay, in 3-5m of water Tasmania. You can safely wait here for for shallow draft vessels. Horseshoe Bay offers shelter from SSE to NW on a weed and sand bottom in depths of 2-3m. However in stronger conditions (over 20kts), because the island is low lying and the bay quite shallow, a short chop can develop, making this anchorage quite uncomfortable and it may require a quick exit. We enjoy stopping at Preservation, often embarking on a walk ashore along the southern part of the island. There are lovely beaches to stroll along, plenty of scrambling around boulders, and the birdlife is abundant with Short Tailed Shearwaters, Sooty Oystercatchers, Caspian Terns, Little Penguins and the obligatory Cape Barren Geese breeding on the island. There is a small house at top left: West coast of Preservation Island. Horseshoe Bay. From time to top right: Thunder & Lightning Bay. time, people are there to care above: Raft of shearwaters at Babel. for the livestock, and the last of Horseshoe Bay, you can admire the imposing rocky peaks of Mt Munroe and Mt Kershaw on Cape Barren Island, the fast moving tidal flow in the Channel and the distant shores of . SPIKE COVE – CLARKE ISLAND A small hop across the Armstrong Channel from Preservation Island and a little way down south along the northwest tip of Clarke Island, is a very good anchorage, safe in all conditions except south westerlies. Spike Cove is often frequented by fishing boats which Seagrass patterns in Horseshoe time we were anchored in the bay, a tend to anchor out deep in the middle of Bay, on Preservation Island. light plane came in to land on the grass the bay, but yachts can throw the pick in strip to park next to the house! Not 4-6m of water close to the shore, over a exactly what you would expect on a tiny sandy bottom. island, but entertaining to watch the pilot We have sat an anchor at Spike make his approach and put his Cessna Cove in a north easterly blow for a few down without a hitch. days, feeling quite snug. But apart The surrounding views at anchor are from offering good shelter, Spike Cove magnificent: you see, Preservation Island holds particular interest for us because sits right at the head of the Armstrong of its really unusual rock formations, Channel, half way between Cape Barren reminiscent of Easter Island. There are and Clarke islands. So from the comfort tors of granite standing erect, hence the top: Take it Easy and Erika II anchored in there are two others close by on the can scramble ashore at the northern Lucy Bay, Badger Island. Photo Graeme McArthur south eastern end, called Cat and end of Babel and stroll to the point, Storehouse Islands. All are granite isles where a group of crosses are a grim above left: The granite tors of Spike Cove, on Clarke Island. covered with low scrub, tussocks and reminder that some folks once lived and above right: Babel at sunrise. sandy soil, pitted with millions of bird died there. I have often been tempted burrows. to climb to the top of Mt Capuchin, the Being half way down the eastern imposing peak at the west end, but with shores of Flinders Island, the Babel shearwater burrows comes the threat of tiger snakes, so this probably will remain Isles are a good stopping point which on the to do list forever! Cat and Store we often enjoy when exploring around Islands are the domain of little penguins; Flinders, or on our return northwards so if you don’t want to break an ankle from the east coast of Tasmania. Babel or disturb the little critters, tread lightly offers several safe anchorages, one along the rocky shores only and avoid on the north west side of the island, trampling the burrows. The area called West Beach, a couple of others between the islets is a good spot for on the southern side, in Bull Cove and trawling ... Flatheads lurk in the sandy name Spike Cove, and massive boulders Cow Cove. There is also a good day shallows. For those who wonder how tinged with bright orange lichen, which anchorage in the shallow waters tucked Babel got its name, an entry in Matthew all make for an interesting visit and great in between the isles of Babel, Cat and Flinders’ Diary on January 8, 1799 photography. Storehouse. And when the wind is records that “the islet is inhabited by The island once was used by coming from the W or SW, the best geese, shags, penguins, gulls and sooty pastoralists. It is not inhabited these place to be is off the beach at Sellars petrels, each occupying its separate days, but since it is now managed by Point, near the sand spit bridge that district, and using its own language. It the Aboriginal Land Council, we do not joins Flinders and Babel at low tide. was the confusion of noises amongst recommend tramping around widely Fishing boats often overnight there. these various animals which induced me without permission. Each anchorage offers different to give the name Babel Isles to this small attributes to enjoy. In Bull Cove and cluster.” THE BABEL ISLES the adjacent Cow Cove, snorkelling One of the unique aspects of Babel The Babel Isles are located about half or diving lets you discover a beautiful Island is that it is home to the largest way down the east coast of Flinders underwater world, and we have been colony of Short-Tailed Shearwaters Island. The largest island is Babel, but known to catch an abalone or two. You in the world. There is an estimated the birds in their thousands on the side of the hill. It was an absolute cacophony of calls, and we could appreciate how aptly named this island is. We keep a journal of all our trips. Here is an extract of our impressions as we headed off the next morning. “We wake early. It smells of mutton! The same astounding display occurs at dawn, as we are slowly motoring off, headed for Killiecrankie on the northern shore of Flinders Island. The shearwaters are flying off in their thousands, gathering in large flocks on the water a little way out. This dawn is breathtaking ... We should do this more often. George, the autopilot, is in charge and we are both standing on the deck looking back towards . The sky is ablaze around the distinctive silhouette of Mt Capuchin. There are pink and orange reflections on the silvery water, shearwaters flying low over the ocean and just above and around us. It is a stunning spectacle. Even Bengie, our ship’s cat, is up looking, sniffing, three million pairs, or about 12% of we watch in awe the return of the mesmerised. We turn around and look the whole population of this species. shearwaters in their thousands from ahead, towards the big full moon. There The shearwaters are often called their daily ocean foraging. is a flock of shearwaters rafting together. ‘muttonbird’, the ‘flying sheep’, no During our last trip there in January As we approach and our path takes doubt because of their large flocks, 2011, we anchored in West Beach, and us through the middle of the flock, the and perhaps also were admiring the water appears to be boiling from the because they were bright red sunset thousands of birds flapping their wings harvested during over the hills called and skimming the surface to take off. ‘mutton-birding’ the Patriarchs, Then at 6am, the sun rises, the colours expeditions, and back on Flinders soften and it is the rising fireball that we as is the case with Island. The now admire. This departure has been an sheep, every part wonderful sunsets absolute delight ... even if red sky in the of the bird was are another treat morning means sailors’ warning.” used: their feathers, at Babel Island. their oil, their flesh, The dark jagged their eggs! I prefer outline of the As mentioned at the conclusion to use the name hills against the of the first article on the shearwater, an apt blazing sky was Furneaux Group, there are of reference to their stunning. As night course many more appealing graceful shearing fell, hundreds anchorages to discover in flight moving from of thousands of addition to those covered here. centimetres above shearwaters came All you need is a little time, a the water’s surface flying back to their taste for adventure and a desire to high in the sky. burrows. This to explore. If you do, like us, Babel Island also quiet spectacle you will fall in love with this has a major colony went on till dark, archipelago. You will want to come back again and again to of little penguins then the whole experience these unspoilt and with some 20,000 island came alive remarkable cruising grounds. pairs. So between the shearwaters with the sound of thousands of chicks and the penguins, when you get there, calling. We stayed outside in the cockpit don’t expect a quiet evening! Every time till nearly 10 o’clock, watching the late we anchor around Babel in summer, stragglers flying home and listening to