“At What Cost?”

Written by: David. M. Cowe.

2015

“Head’s were bowed and not a sound was heard Until from somewhere out at sea Came the low drone of a ship’s siren.”

“Fitting lament for a Fisherman”

“Home from the Sea”

1

Quotes

“No man can be a Fisher and lack a wife,”

(Unknown)

“Cargo baith Wye’s”

(Unknown)

“War to end all wars,”

(H.G.Wells)

“Man’s inhumanity to man, Makes’ countless thousands mourn”

(Robert Burns)

“You know I,m always amazed that men should feel themselves honoured By the humiliation of their fellow human beings,”

Mohandas Gandhi

“A woman’s work is niver dae, n”

(Unknown)

“Life is a school and we are still learning”

(Mary’s. Thow) aged 80 years

“The individual can find truth By using his powers of observation and reason Instead of blindly following tradition”

(Ecclesiastes)

2

“Poems”

“King James is land,t at Peterhead”

(Song, Unknown Author)

“To A Burnie”

(Extract)

(By Peter Buchan)

“Eence Upon a Time”

(Extract)

(Unknown)

“In the Drifter”

(Extract)

Gladys Milne)

“At Yarmouth Time”

(Extract)

(Unknown)

“Aye Folk Are Kindly”

(Unknown)

“Life Without Waves”

David M Cowe (Author)

3

“Olive Branch” PD77”

David M Cowe (Author)

*** Introduction***

I started this story purely to put in writing some family history, by no means historically famous but I’ve always maintained, everyone has a story, whether famous or otherwise and should be recorded if only for future generations to read and get an insight into their roots.

Although it is largely a personal family story, it could also equally apply to any family with “Fisher” roots in the North East of Scotland. Just apply different names and much the same story will materialise.

The story starts with a tale told to me verbally with no written verification about a Dutchman who absconded from his ship during the early 1600s I have tried to visualise his life prior to this in his homeland in Holland and his eventual acceptance into the life in a small fishing village in Buchan. The story then progresses to actual fact, including the 1715 Jacobite Rebellion, Local Fisher Folk and their lifestyle, Fishing Villages, Boats, WWI and WWII

I don’t pretend to be an expert on anything fishing related, having never went to the sea for a living, even if I come from ten generations of Fishers. There is the distinct possibility there may be errors in dates, descriptions etc which I apologise for in advance and welcome any corrections.

Being of “Burnie” descent myself and being brought up speaking the local dialect, which sadly is gradually disappearing from everyday speech, I have included a fair amount of the Buchan Doric which I have no doubt will cause a few exclamations like “Whit daes at mean?”

David M Cowe

4 *** I have included a direct line family tree at the back of book for ease of following the generations throughout the story***

***Dedication***

This story is dedicated to all the people who lived and died through both WWI and WWII suffering untold misery, personal tragedy and hardships so that we could live in freedom and with freedom of speech.

Also

To all the families and fishermen from all around the coasts of the U.K. and in particular the North East Coast of Scotland who have lost Father’s, Son’s, Brother’s, Uncle’s, Cousin’s and friends in the pursuit of the bounty of the sea…

“Life can only be understood backwards But it must be lived forwards”

Soren Kierkegaard

5

1647

All round the coast of the North East of Scotland and infact the whole of the British Isles the fishermen from the many fishing villages and towns during the 1600,s had never shown any interest in the fishing of the “Herring” They were mostly inshore fishermen with smallish boats concentrating on line fishing, catching fish such as cod, haddock, ling and flatfish like plaice, and because of the size of their boats and frequent bad weather they were often restricted in the amount of days they could put to sea in their luggers as their boats were called………… It would be nearly 200 years in the future before Scottish and indeed all fishermen from the East Coast of the British Isles would realise the potential and wealth that could be had from the lucrative pursuit of the “Herring”

This left the Dutch with the monopoly on the Herring fishing from around the early 1600,s right up to the mid 1800,s with their fleets of “Herring Busses” as their boats were called, they were made with a round-bilged keel rounded at the bow and stern, their size was probably about 20 metres in length with a displacement of between 60 and 100 tons, they also had two or three masts, of which the mainmast and foremast could be lowered during fishing, the broad deck also provided plenty space to process the catch.

The “Busses” used long drift nets which were hung like curtains along the paths of the herring shoals, the fish would be trapped with their gills in the mesh of the nets which would be hauled onboard at night where the crews would start “gibbing” or gutting, salting and barrelling the herring.

These boats would sail in large fleets of between four hundred and five hundred, usually escorted by Naval vessels because the British considered They were poaching in their waters and would have no hesitation in arresting any unescorted Dutch vessel. This was also in the times of “Privateers” who would also board and capture the crews and ships in the time of war…

6

When the season started which was usually around the 14th June these ships would sail as far North as the Shetland islands following the herring shoals South down the German Sea (North Sea) continually fishing off the coasts of places like Wick, Peterhead, Montrose, Lowestoft and eventually Great Yarmouth, These “Busses” would stay at sea all through the season, when a vessel was full a “Yager” these were ships that would take onboard the processed and barrelled herring and transport them back to the Nederland’s or even Prussia, these transporters also provided fresh water, salt, supplies and more barrels …..It was not unusual for the Master and even the Mate of a Buss to have their wives onboard for the whole season………….

There were many trading ports going back into the mists of time but one in particular deserves a special mention, “Edam” a small fishing village dating back to 1230 Edam prospered through the centuries with ship building, herring trading and specialising in making cheese , even to the present day. There would be very few who have never heard of “Edam cheese” This cheese would be covered in a red or yellow wax and didn’t spoil easily which made it an ideal source of food for sailors and herring fishermen who were away on voyages for many months at a time, it was also traded all over the known world, there is no doubt every herring Buss would have had a few rounds of “Edam” whilst on their annual pursuit of the herring shoals. All this leads up to the question, why such large fleets of fishing vessels catching massive amounts of herring, there are a few answers to this, firstly, meat was very expensive for the rich let alone the poor and herring was relatively cheap, secondly, Christianity dictated all had to abstain from eating meat every Friday and also during Lent and Feast days, because the Dutch had perfected the art of preserving herring by salting and barrelling there was always a big demand and ready market all over Europe and even in Russia. During the winter months when the “Busses” would have been idle until the “Herring Season” started again, the biggest majority of these vessels would ship barrels of herring to the Baltic ports in exchange for grain and most importantly timber for building ships...

7

The Dutch had also colonised a few places on the North east coast of South America, namely Surinam and Recife although they didn’t hold onto the latter for more than a few years, both these areas were abundant with sugar Plantations, and of course the main source of labour was slaves, it doesn’t take much imagination to realise what better way to feed the slaves than with Salted herring caught in the North Sea, The many barrels would be transported on “Fluyts” a Galleon type vessel of about 80 feet (24.4 mtr) of between 200 and 300 tons. The “Fluyt” was square rigged with two or three masts which were a lot higher than a galleon allowing for greater speed... Sugar was loaded onto these vessels and taken back to the Nederland’s where it was processed in the many refineries…………. In all probability these same ships would have also transported slaves to South America to be sold to the Plantation owners…

There is a saying which states: Amsterdam is built on herring bones…. This is no understatement when you consider the Dutch depended on the herring industry as a large part of their economy for several centuries….

Around about 1647 Johannes Kow or Coo was born in the fishing and ship building town of Edam, his father Alexander was a well known and respected ship builder of many generations, Alexander had a large family of which Johannes was the second youngest, all his brothers followed the family tradition and went to work with their father, when Johannes was fourteen years old he also was expected to follow this path but this was not to be. From an early age the young Johannes would regularly be found at the harbour watching the Herring Busses in fascination as they sailed from the harbour in search of the herring shoals, so it was that Johannes joined the Goede Fortuin (Good Fortune) in June 1661 and sailed from his home for the first time in search of fortune and adventure……….

It was a hard life; living conditions onboard were very basic, cramped and smelly because most of the boat was taken up for the processing of the many

8 Herring caught and storage of the barrels packed with the salted herrings, although the captain did have a small cabin for himself and his wife.

For the next four years Johannes worked hard learning his trade, how to set and repair sails, rigging, rope work, mend nets, gut and pack the herring and Many other things, during the off season he would stay with the Goede Fortuin when they would go to the Baltic States with barrels of herring and trade them for grain and timber to take back to the Nederland’s, even once taking a job on a Fluyt during the off season of his third year at sea taking barrels of herring to South America and returning with sugar to the Nederland, although this voyage took nearly six months he was still back in Edam by early June in time for the herring season once again. Although Johannes meant to do well, he did learn quickly, was a hard worker and was well respected, like many fishermen from times of old and (its worth mentioning) future generations, he had the adventure but he never managed to attain any wealth………….due simply to the weakness of having the occasional wager, mostly losing and a fondness for the drink when ashore in the many Taverns, sure he could maybe have avoided this but it was the way it was in those days and to be different was not to be a part of………also because of his lifestyle at the time he was not welcome in his fathers house and more or less shunned by his brothers, it did not matter to him, he was young and because he had mastered all the fishing skills required of a young man on a herring buss, he was always welcome aboard the Goede Fortuin………

And so we come to Johannes fifth season on the Goede Fortuin , it is June 1666 once again they set sail for the distant fishing grounds in the far Northern Shetland Islands, because of bad weather and the boat being a bit sluggish it took quite a few weeks to get there.. (during the winter months the Goede Fortuin was engaged in the shipment of herring to the Baltic’s and there had been no time to have the ships bottom scrapped of barnacles and seaweed, this could be done fairly easily on their way South again, after all it was vital to get North in time to pursue the herring)

9

During the voyage North Johannes had plenty time to think, he was a bit older and even wiser and he realised to himself how much he was wasting his life, he could see no future in his current lifestyle, however, these thoughts must be put to the back of his mind for now because they had finally arrived at the fishing grounds………The fishing was good and they filled the hold with many barrels of herring, infect they were very heavily laden and were fortunate to meet with a “Yager” which bought all their catch, by this time they were well down the coast of Scotland, The Captain decided whilst they were so light in the water, it would be the ideal time to take the opportunity to have the boats bottom scrapped and cleaned...

They were close to the coast somewhere between Fraserburgh and Rattray Head, the Captain was quite familiar with this area and knew of a long flat sandy beach, ideal for beaching their boat and at long last getting the boats bottom cleaned, it would only take a couple of days and reasoned the Captain, with a clean ship, they would make good time and soon catch up with the other boats and the ever migrating shoals of herring. And so with the high tide the Buss was beached, two anchors were run up the beach and lodged on some rocks, soon it was low tide and the ship was left high and dry, immediately all of the crew, including Johannes set to scrapping and cleaning all the barnacles and seaweed from the ships bottom….. Not only was the Captain familiar with the area but he also knew some of the locals including the Laird.

It maybe asked why this was the case, it is easily explained, The Captain was not adverse to making a few extra shillings which was why he always carried quite a few casks of brandy onboard during the herring season, it was a long standing agreement between him and the Laird, “smuggling” which was prevalent in these times, so it was that the beaching was a two fold convenience for both parties. And of course the locals were very much involved in the offloading and delivery of the contraband to the Lairds abode after which they were suitably rewarded in kind...

10

The Captain always arranged for a couple of rounds of Edam cheese to be delivered to the Laird and was always invited to stay for dinner, whilst he was thus occupied most of the crew, other than a couple of men left to watch over the ship were allowed to mix with the local fishermen and their families who all lived in a small village called “Seatown of Corskellie” more commonly known as “Boatlea” strangely for a fishing village, it was located about half a mile from the shore and used an exposed inlet known as the South Campie as a harbour, there was only about six families living there at this time, circa 1666, originally these people would have been mostly a farming community but by this time almost all of them would have turned entirely to fishing, although it is likely they still retained some land for growing potatoes and vegetables etc

It is a probability that most of these people would have came from the fishing village of “Seatown of Rattray” which was located at the mouth of what is now known as the Loch of Strathbeg which was once an open estuary and navigable to ships, unfortunately during the mid 1600s the estuary entrance started silting up with sand with the result that the fishermen/farmers/smugglers/pirates had to look elsewhere for a safe and suitable inlet for their boats. N.b. these were poor times, hence the requirement for the inhabitants to turn their hands to many ways of making a living just to survive, some honest, many dubious………but not unique to the North East of Buchan………

It was a bit difficult to communicate because of the language differences but everyone managed somehow to make themselves understood, by sign or gesture, although the locals were poor the crew were made welcome and food and drink was shared... Johannes in particular got friendly with a young girl of about his own age of nineteen years, although at no time did her father and mother allow them to be alone at anytime, after all he was an unknown fisherman from foreign parts and would be leaving in a very short while, probably never to return, her name was Marjorie Mowat….

Poor Johannes was smitten and the Captain had returned from his dining with the Laird, anxious to be of with the imminent high tide…..

11 With lots of soul searching Johannes made the difficult decision to abandon ship, so far in his short life he had nothing other than what he had learned, He gave a short note to one of his crewmates to pass to the Captain once they were at sea to give to his parents explaining his reasons for staying behind, and so it was, that night, when everybody else returned to the ship, He ran in the opposite direction for a couple of miles where he found a cave in which he hid.

When Johannes ventured out of the little cave next morning the sun was shinning and the first thing he noticed was the Goede Fortuin, just a small silhouette on the horizon heading South, he thought to himself, goede fortuin to all onboard but for himself its now too late to change his mind, he was committed to creating a new, hopefully better life………….

So it was that young Johannes slowly trudged his way through the sand to the little fishing village where everybody had been made welcome just the other day, eventually he arrived whereupon he met Marjorie Mowat’s father Thomas, sitting beside his small boat which had been damaged recently, He explained again with a bit of difficulty what he had done and the reason for his recklessness. Marjorie’s father was a kindly man, after all he had been young himself, He listened patiently and after a bit of thought, replied, you have done a stupid thing for the love of a young girl that you hardly know but we can’t turn the clock back, if my daughter will have you, I will have no objection because you seem to be a smart young man and having worked on a Herring Buss for years, there is no doubt you will be an able worker…………..there is one thing we must do first, talk to the Meenester (Minister)

Thomas and Johannes made their way to the Kirk where they were welcomed in by the auld stooped minister, himself a strict religious and patient man, sometimes with the goings on in his parish, he had to be. After listening, (not without a little difficulty) the minister at last replied, Johannes, tis a foolish and foolhardy thing you have done but there is little we can do about it now, like Thomas here I think you are a genuine sort and

I will be happy to marry you to Marjorie but there is only one thing which I must insist on, a period of grace, say six months, after all you barely know the girl, other than that, it will be good for all concerned, anyway “the bleed needs mixing noo n again” I’m sure Thomas wid agree on that, too much in recent years of cousin marrying cousin and so forth………..

12

After their little cleck wae the minister Thomas and Johannes made their way back tae the little fishing village, nae lang intae their walk Thomas said tae Johannes, there’s jist aye little problem, ye hinnae nae way tae bide and it widnae be richt for ye tae bide in my hoose, folk wid speak……….but aff got an idea, there’s an auld fisher widow, she lost her man, Davy tae the sea mony years ago, I’m sure she wid tak ye in for a while and she wid be gled o a few extra coppers, So it wis they then went tae the auld widow woman, her name wis Jessie Buchan..

Jessie eventually opened the door efter Thomas had knocked twae three times, she wis a bit deef, maist o the time or fin it suited her, efter listening tae their tale Jessie agreed that young Johannes could bide wae her for a while but insisting that he his tae dae a bit a work for her for his keep, like planting her tatties and vegetables in her wee bit a grun…. And efter a wis agreed, the only ither comment she made wis, a kent something like this wis likely tae happen, a noticed a along ye hid an eye for the young quin...

And so Thomas left them tae it and made his way hame tae his ain hoose wae a the cleck a whit hid happened ower the last couple a hoors, his wife Isabel wis a bit dour in I face but then that wis naething new, his daughter although a bit quiet and didnae say awfae much, she had a wee smile on her face………….

Of course it wis the talk o the wee fishing village o Boatlea for a twae three days but eventually it wis auld news and athing settled doon tae normality eence again, Johannes did a the jobs requiring dae,n for Jessie and she wis well pleased wae his efforts, he wis allowed tae visit Marjorie at her father Thomas’s hoosie and wis well received there and a aroon the area…… Especially efter he had repaired Thomas’s damaged boatie.

Although Johannes had never served his apprenticeship wae his father in the family ship building yard but from about the age of ten until he was fourteen, he worked in the yard almost everyday after school, learning a bit about the craft of ship repairing and building which now stood him good stead because not only Thomas but others also asked him to do repairs on their boats……

It is now well into winter and almost five months since Johannes absconded from his ship; the fishing has been very poor due to the men not being able

13 to go out to sea on a regular basis because of the bad weather and strong winds. It was fortunate that the Captain of the Goede Fortuine was generous in leaving half a dozen barrels of salted herring which was shared out to each family, this and the dried cod which had been dried during the summer months, they also had plenty of tatties which were in pits covered with straw and earth well protected from the frosts and snow, the men also set snares to catch hares and rabbits, although it was constant struggle, nobody starved...

Also around this time all the men decided it was time to help Johannes build a new cottage for him and Marjorie to live in…………as it was winter and very little fishing to be had, the little house was soon built……….

At last the big day arrived, all the inhabitants and a few others from around the area gathered at the manse for the great occasion. Johannes and Marjorie were soon married, it is the year 1667 and Johannes is twenty years of age, after the ceremony was over everybody celebrated the couples health and future with not a few drams of the plentiful brandy which was supplied by the Laird who at the best of times was a miserly person but on this special day because of his connection to Johannes’s countrymen, he was most generous and liberal……

The celebrations over old Thomas was taken home to his bed a little war of the wear, he had overdone it a bit because he had no sons and now had a son in law who hopefully would provide many sons with Marjorie.

Johannes and Marjorie also went home to their little cottage where a fire had been set earlier by some friends and so they settled into married life happily and accepted by all in the little fishing village.

One year later Marjorie gave birth to twins, one was named Thomas after Marjorie’s father and the other Alexander after Johannes father, Old Thomas was over the moon with the births especially because it was two sons and one named after him, infact once again he had to be bedded after over indulging in celebrating the event..

14 Over the next twelve years Marjorie gave birth to another three sons and three daughters, James, William, Robert, Isabel, Sarah and Marjorie. Sadly William and Isabel died in infancy due to the high mortality of children in these times but fortunately all the others were hale and healthy. One can only imagine what kind of state Marjorie’s father got himself into with all these births within his family, especially with so many grandsons.

Johannes was happy and well settled into his new life, he had even learned to talk in the local dialect within a few years and nobody from out with the village would have guessed he originally came from the Nederland’s. He did still have contact with his parents by sending messages to them with the occasional Buss who would beach on the sand during the herring season but in later years when his parents died and the Buss’s didn’t frequent these shores so much this all stopped after all Johannes had a new life and family. It was a new beginning, little did he realise how much his line would develop over the next three hundred years……….

Eventually all of Johannes and Marjorie’s family grew to adulthood and themselves married...

Thomas who had been a farm labourer married Elizabeth Mowat from Saint Fergus and moved there to a little croft where they brought up a large family.

Alexander married Helen May from Broadsea near Fraserburgh where they set up home and also brought up a large family, Alexander was a fisherman and went to the fishing in his father in laws boat.

Robert who was also a fisherman moved to the fishing village of Buchanhaven near Peterhead where he married Mary Buchan, he also managed to buy a share in a small boat.

Sarah also moved to Broadsea after marrying Gilbert Noble a fisherman from that village. They also had a large family.

15 Marjorie didn’t move very far because she had married James Bruce also a fisherman from her home village, they set up home there bringing up quite a large family as well.

James who was a fisherman as well also stayed in the little fishing village of Boatlea marrying Isabel Keith the daughter of William Keith with whom John went to the fishing. They also had quite a large family….

Johannes and Marjorie lived quite long lives for these times and were able to see the many grandchildren that their family had produced and to quote, the Meenester fae many years past, “the bleed wis weel and truly mixed”

Johannes died at the age of 61 years in the year 1708 and Marjorie his wife ten years later in the year 1718 aged 69 years.

And so Johannes and Marjorie passed on leaving many lines all over Buchan Too much in fact for me to follow through to modern times….

There are many people in the North East of Buchan and all over the world who could relate to the aforementioned passages as a beginning to their roots. The names may vary but basically their stories could have the same foundations…………..

Although the Historical content in the story so far, are true to the best of my knowledge and research there maybe some mistakes to which I am totally responsible and accept, the actual story is based on a story handed on by word of mouth of the origins of my own roots, many family names used so

far have been taken from future generations……that in its self a possible basis for actual fact………

Therefore I will concentrate on Johannes and Marjorie’s son James who married Isabel Keith my direct ancestors…………..

James and Isabel had five surviving children, Alexander born about 1693, Margaret born about 1694, Janet born 13 Jan 1695, James born 24 May 1698

16 And Isabel born 21 Jan 1700

One interesting incident occurred around 1709 The old Minister who had been an Episcopalian (a denomination to which most of Aberdeenshire and which included Boatlea and most of the fishing villages in Buchan) had died at the auld age of ninety years, for the times that was the exception to the rule but maybe the many tipples partaken during the many marriages and christenings had helped to preserve him to this great age….

The new Minister, Thomas Gordon (a Presbyterian) was appointed to the district of Lonmay.

There was so much ill feeling against the prospect of Presbyterianism being forced upon them by the men of Boatlea, so much so that some of the Boatlea men folk decided to waylay Mr Gordon whilst he was on his way to Ordination. On the day Mr Gordon was due to arrive the men armed themselves with “lug spades” and made their way to the “Lochee Brig” near Inverallochy Castle where they waited for him to arrive out of Fraserburgh. Fortunately for these men, one of their wives had the foresight to see that much retribution would surely follow such rash action, whereupon she ran ahead in secret to “Philorth Brig” to warn Mr Gordon of the dangers ahead of him and to beg him to turn back to the Broch (Fraserburgh) but Mr Gordon was not to be daunted and proceeded onwards, when he finally met up with the mob near the Lochee Brig he threw open his arms and loudly proclaimed his thanks to such dedicated parishioners coming so far to welcome him to their Parish.

The mob was so taken aback that they immediately threw down their weapons and proceeded to escort Mr Gordon to the Kirk. All was well and everyone was the best of friends… what could have ended with dire consequences were cleverly handled by the new Minster who went on to serve the parishioners of the Lonmay area for many years...

It is more than likely James and Alexander his son would have been part of this little escapade, which leads onto another historical incident which occurred in the area at this time…

17 As we have already mentioned James’s brother Robert had settled in the nearby town of Peterhead and he would sometimes visit his family in Boatlea, maybe once or twice a year….

It was during one of these visits in the Spring of 1716 that he told James the following story, it was supposed to be a secret and only one or two people knew of it, it is said fishwife’s love tae cleck but it seems fishermen were just as bad, a case of “If I tell ye this secret ye hinnae tae tell onybody else” but of course it was such a sensational incident that every person told the story also passed it on, swearing all to secrecy but in reality turning a top secret operation into common knowledge all round the coast of Buchan within a very short time…

John Erskine the 6th Earl of Mar raised a Jacobite rebellion in 1715 declaring that James Francis Edward Stuart (also known as the Old Pretender) son of the deposed Catholic monarch James II was the rightful heir to Scottish and English thrones as James VIII of Scotland and James III of England...

James Stuart and some followers landed at Port Henry Harbour in Peterhead on the 22nd December 1715 where they were received by the Earl Marishall,s representive Baron Bailie Thomas Arbuthnot, who then escorted the visitors to a house in Park Lane just of the Longate which belonged to Captain James Park, a relation of the Baron Bailie.

King James is land,t at Peterhead, an honour great to us indeed, The night was wet and late the tide, he couldnae unto Ugie ride, He slept a night in oor good town, Upon a good saft bed o down, In the morning when he raise, the Marshal’s Bailie brushed his claithes, He’s come to set Auld Scotland free from cursed Hanover Tyranny.

Unfortunately the uprising was a total failure and James was persuaded by the Earl of Mar to return to France, and so it was that he left the shores of Scotland sometime in February 1716 to evade capture and possible death…

18 The “Old Pretender” never returned to Scotland, spending the rest of his life in or near to Rome. He married Maria Sobieski, Granddaughter of John III of Poland. They had two sons “Charles Edward Stuart” the “Young Pretender” and Henry Stuart who later became Cardinal Duke of York…

That was a brief narrative of the “Old Pretender’s” landing at Peterhead.

The original text of the following story was printed in old Buchan Dialect and a bit long winded and very difficult for modern readers to understand therefore I have shortened the story quite a bit and Englified the words. For ease of reading and understanding of the tale ….

Peterhead 1715

The Fishermen Robbie Buchan and Davy Cordiner were sitting before a warm peat fire in Ale Annie,s at Cruden, It was “Old Years Night” and an almost continuous draught of icy cold air blew from beneath the door.

“A Good Year to you Davy” said Robbie holding up his horn of frothing hame brewed ale. “The same to you Robbie” and they both took a long drink.

“Where do you think I,ve been Davy ?” “Peterheed? where ye,ve maybe been meeting some auld acqqaintances like Lairds and Provests ?” answered Davy,

No! No! Kings! Davy, what think ye of that ?” “You don,t mean to say oor auld freen has landed from France to try and get his Crown back,”replied Davy. “Yes ! He really has and whats more, I helped to land him myself.”

Yes he clasped my hand and asked how I was and then said “How,s Davy doing ?” “He was just a boy when we knew him in 1708 but he remembered both of us.” Have another drink Robbie and tell me how it all came about ?” so they summoned Annie to replenish their drinks..

19

I had a walk doon to Peterheid and who should I bump into but Baillie Arbuthnot who asked me if I was wanting a job, we then went over to the Keith Inch where we enlisted the help of two other men where upon we launched a boatie and headed out into the Bay, rowing for the ship that was rolling about in the rough sea..

The Baillie had identified the ship by the flag he was flying wae the code “Lochaber” written on it

After a difficult and treacherous journey we eventually came alongside the ship, all I could hear was French tongues yapping awae, eventually the first man was lowered down and then Davy a could hardly believe my eyes but who should come down next but the King himself, maybe a bit aulder looking but he knew me right away.

Even though our hands were that cauld we could hardly grip the oars, we made our way back to land, Once we had landed and climbed up the steps to the Pier the King gave the two other men two Guineas each then he took me aside and shoved five Guineas into my pocket, “ For auld times sake and present services rendered,” he said.

The King then went away with the Baillie to the Longate where the Baillie,s son in law had prepared a bed for the King…

And so you have the local story how of how James Stuart (The Old Pretender” landed in Peterhead and who,s to say Robert Cow wasn,t one of the men enlisted to help in getting the King ashore for not long after the “secret landing” everybody wondered how Robert was able to buy out the other man,s share of the boat they shared, and of course he was related to the Buchan,s , probably related to Robbie Buchan………..

The theme of the above story was taken from the book “Eppie Elrick” which I have written in my own words for ease of reading

Writen by William. P. Milne. First printed and published by P. Scrogie Ltd in 1960)

20

So life continued as usual in the little fishing village of Boatlea which had grown in size quite considerably to around 30 fisher households.

Alexander Cow was married to Isabel Russel on the 18th Feb 1718 by the now established minister, Mr Gordon, who recorded their marriage in the Kirk register, this was a fairly recent law introduced in Scotland whereby under threat of prosecution if not adhered to, all local ministers were compelled to register all births, deaths and marriages, it should also be noted that Mr Gordon spelt Alexander,s surname as “Cow” and not as “Kow” a simple mistake which occurred when he was writing down the marriage particulars in the register , simply writing it as it was pronounced to him. This was not unique and many family names have variants down through the years…..

Alexander and Isabel had four surviving children, Robert born 18 Dec 1714 I don’t know if this date is correct but if so, Isabel would have been only 17 years of age Robert would have been born out of wedlock, nae doubt this would have been frowned upon, however Alexander did the right thing and they got married a few years later and had another three children, William born 4th Nov 1718 who married Christian Mowat, Alexander born 22Mar 1721 who married Sarah Murdo born 31st Mar 1716 on the 7th Aug 1742 Daughter of John Murdo and Sarah Strachan, and Margaret born 25 Oct 1729...

For the next few years’ things continued without any outstanding occurrences.

The men going to the fishing when the unpredictable weather allowed them, Hunting for rabbits, hares, and unofficially the odd grouse or pheasant to supplement their diet, if the Laird had found out about the grouse and pheasant there would have been big trouble but the feeling was he knew all along and didn’t bother too much as long a there was plenty for his table and frequent guests after all, the fishermen and the fishing village were in reality part of his assets and the good?? Fishermen paid their tithes to him, usually on time, for the right to fish from his estate, this usually comprised of a percentage of the fish caught. There was also the unspoken lucrative income from Smuggling, Piracy and Wrecking, a long established additional source’s of income; this was common for the times almost in all coastal

21 areas, not only in Buchan but the whole of the British Isles. There is no doubt the good fishermen of Boatlea participated in these dubious practices although I’m inclined to believe that Piracy is too harsh a term to apply, possibly in earlier times to these but I find it hard to accept that the populace would have lured vessels onto the “Rattray Rocks” murdering crews, leaving no witnesses to the plundering of wrecked ships, although it is a possibility ??

After all if it were the case, who would know, there would never have been any witnesses left to tell…………but it is certain smuggling would definitely have been a lucrative sideline and certainly the looting of any ships who were unfortunate enough to land on the “Rattray Briggs”

Alexander and Sarah had six surviving children, Isabel born 17th June 1743, John Priece born 4 July 1745, Christian born 22nd Apr 1748 who married Alexander Buchan on the 12th Dec 1771, Sarah born 30th Sept 1749, Janet born 9th Aug 1753 and William born 28th Oct 1756 who married Jean May on the 7 th Dec 1786……..

It is interesting to note that in the year of John Priece Cow’s birth 1745 that there was yet another attempt by the “Jacobite,s” to restore a “Stuart” to the thrones of Scotland and England, none other than Charles Edward Louis John Casimir Silvester Maria Stuart “quite a name” more commonly known as “Bonnie Prince Charlie” or “The Young Pretender” son of James Francis Edward Stuart (The Old Pretender) whom we have mentioned previously of his landing in Peterheid in 1715………..It was on the 23rd July 1745 that the “Young Pretender” landed on the Outer Hebridean Island of Eriskay.

He famously raised his fathers standard at Glenfinnan on the 19th August marking the start of the “45 Jacobite Uprising” With the support of the Cameron’s, MacDonald’s and Macgregor’s and every possibility of additional support from the North East, after all the Buchan area was well known for supporting the Jacobite cause, the army marched south taking the city of Perth before moving onto Edinburgh which surrendered easily enough.

22 The Prince took residence in the Palace of Holyrood; A Hanovarian Government army was easily defeated on the 21st September at the “Battle of Prestonpans” The army now numbering 6000 headed further South, first taking Carlisle before moving as far as Derby only 120 miles from London… Unfortunately with little support from the English “Jacobites” the Prince was advised return to Scotland, unknown to the Scottish forces was the fact that the Royal Household in London was in complete panic of the advancing Jacobite army, George II had even packed all his valuables onto a ship in the River Thames, ready to flee. The Scottish army returned north of the border being pursued by the Kings son, the Duke of Cumberland.

The Prince and his followers eventually reached Drumossie Moor, near Inverness on the 17th January 1746. With a depleted army, Bonnie Prince Charlie faced the Duke of Cumberlands forces on the 16th April at Culloden Moor where he was heavily defeated, The Jacobite losses numbered over 2000 mainly due to the fact that the Duke had ordered “no quarter”

Although there was “no quarter” given at Culloden, many known and suspected Jacobites were arrested and taken to the Tolbooth in Aberdeen, and by the 17th May there were 34 prisoners in custody, rising to 96 being held for treasonable offences by the end of July 1746.

Strangely the majority of those held were craftsmen and servants, very few professional or Merchants, it is confirmed that there were “fishermen” and others held prisoner by some of the names listed, George Wallace, George Wales and John Main, white fishers from Fittie (a former fishing village in Aberdeen)

Also familiar names in this story, a William “Murdo” a shoemaker from Aberdeen, an Episcopalian minister William Strachan was questioned but not held. If we remember the auld Baillie Arbuthnot from the 1715 event, There would be little doubt of there being Jacobite sympathisers in Peterhead and in the many little fishing villages around the coast, although it is likely the auld Baillie who was elderly during 1715 and wouldn’t have been around to see or take part in the 1745 rising..

There was a £30,000 reward offered for the capture of the Prince who had fled for his life, at the end of April he sailed for the Outer Hebrides and took

23 refuge on the Isle of Uist, only escaping disguised as maid of “Flora McDonald” to the island of Skye, Eventually he was picked up by from Arisaig by a French ship. He eventually arrived back in France where he vowed to mount another campaign to reclaim his rightful throne, alas never to be, spending the rest of his life in Europe….

How different History might have been written if the Jacobite Army had continued on to London from Derby...No Nationalists shouting for independence because everybody would have been under Scottish rule anyway, somehow I don,t think that would have lasted very long…..

John Preice Cow married Isabel Murdo on the 7th Oct 1770 (they were probably cousins because John’s mother was Sarah Murdo) They had seven surviving children, James born 14th Dec 1772, Peter and Marjorie (twins) born 23rd April 1778, John born 15th Nov 1779, Andrew born 28th July 1781, Isabel born 4 Nov 1782 and Elspeth born 23rd Sept 1785.

John Precie Cow born 1779 met and set up home with Margaret Murray (daughter of James Murray “a farmer” and Jane Penny from Crimond) they may have married but there is no parish register of the marriage, it is probable that John met Margaret when he was working on James Murray’s farm when the weather was too rough to go fishing, they also probably lived on the farm. They were quite old when they had their first children (in their thirties?)

Before continuing with John and Margaret’s family the following advertisement was placed in the Aberdeen Journal in the late 1700s:

**Encouragement to Fishers**

A new Fish town is to built at Rattray Head, this ensuing Spring by Mr Harvey of Broadland, Rattray Head is reckoned to be one of the best fishing Grounds in the North of Scotland, particularly for fine cod and fishers residing there will be at an advantage by being near to the fishing grounds, The landing places are to be improved and every convince will be attended to.

24 Fishers inclining to settle there will meet with good encouragement and may apply to Mr Harvey of Broadband or Mr James Robertson (Cooper) in Peterhead

The village must have been completed by 1795 because another advertisement appeared in the Aberdeen Journal on the 9th June.

**To Fishers**

Wanted immediately several steady fishermen for the new Fish town at Rattray Head, Every encouragement will be given. For particulars, apply to the Proprietor of Broadland, Mr James Gordon at Logie or Messrs James and Thomas Robertson in Peterhead...

The main input of population into the new fishing village came in the first few years of the nineteenth century, when the fishermen finally left or were evicted from the village of Boatlea, quite a few went to St Combs or Charlestown, but some of them went to the new Fishtown at Rattray Head, mainly consisting of families with the names of Buchan and Cow about 1803 This included John Cow and his wife Margaret Murray and probably John’s father, mother and family…occupying some of the ten or so houses which had been built………

Boatlea ceased to exist around the early 1800s its not known exactly why, possibly because the inlet they used as a harbour known as the “South Campie” had started to silt up with sand but the most likely explanation for the demise of Boatlea was the availability of new houses and harbours in the new fisher villages of Charlestown, St Combs and Seatown of Rattray. This new fishing village at Rattray should not be confused with a previous fishing village which had existed about a mile from the new one but had ceased to exist many many years ago...

Although the sea was abundant with cod, the fishing was so poor because of the many days lost due to bad weather and the hazardous waters around Rattray Head, in fact the conditions became so desperate that the fishing village became more commonly known as “Botany” nicknamed after the desolate Penal colony recently established in 1788 at Botany Bay, Australia.

25 Before continuing with John and Margaret’s move to “Botany” and shortly before Boatlea (Seatown of Corskellie) ceased to exist a noteable event occurred one Sunday night in January 1803, an event which confirms the dubious practices of our forebearers.

**Looting and Wrecking at Rattray**

A Russian ship called the “Mapapima” foundered on the Rattray Briggs in hurricane conditions from the South east, The hull apparently drifted nearly to Cairnbulg, probably near enough to Boatlea. Flotsam and jetsam ranging from wood to silk handkerchiefs and feather beds were strewn all along the coast from the wreck and of course the local beach combing fraternity (whose membership included mainly, the local fishermen) were quickly on the scene to spirit away the windfall, however on this occasion the local dignitaries were also quick to act, in an attempt to staunch they saw as nefarious practice. (It should be noted in these times all fishermen were poor and when any ship went on to the rocks it was like “manna from heaven” a true blessing to their meagre existence)

With the Excise yacht the “Henry Dundas” guarding the hulk from the seaward side and watchers keeping an eye from the shore, once daylight came in the opportunities for making of with plunder more or less ceased.

However the Excise men decided to search the cottages at Boatlea (Seatown of Corskellie) where they found, unluckily for them, one John Cow fisherman, his son, and father in law James Murray, a farmer from Lonmay in possession of upwards of a cartload of “wrecked articles” John Cow sen and the farmer were released fairly quickly on payment a fine of one shilling and sixpence , which in today’s value would be 7 1/2p Unfortunately for John Cow jun who couldn’t or maybe refused to pay the fine was taken to the “Tollbooth” in Aberdeen under the charge of a constable.

The Aberdeen Journal went on to say that “it is hoped from the vigilance that has taken place at present, that the fishermen may have received such a check , as will prevent their ravages in future on such melancholy occasions”

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That I would think would have been taken like a “pinch of salt” after all “wrecking” was a way of life, had been for centuries and unlikely to stop any time in the near future.

It maybe said John Cow was unlucky because there is little doubt he was not alone in the plunder, as mentioned, all fishermen took part in this occasional bonus on their doorsteps, its just that he was careless and got caught this time. He probably learned to be more careful next time... n.b It is obvious John Cow (my great,great,great grandfather) was eventually released from his confinement in the Tollbooth of Aberdeen otherwise I would not be here today to write these notes, whether he paid his fine himself or possibly his father in law or other relatatives we’ll never know.

It should also be considered the possibility if he had not paid up he might have ended up in the real “Botany”

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**Botany Bay, Australia**

Following the American War of Independence the now independent states of North America and the abolition of slavery there was no requirement for shipments of convicts from the British Isles. this didn’t stop crimes and criminals were still being jailed. It got so bad that the prisons of Britain couldn’t cope with the massive influx of prisoners. The death penalty was the reward for many offences many of which were relatively minor.

Many witnesses were reluctant to give evidence which would send men and women to the scaffold. Judges and juries often returned “not guilty” verdicts on petty criminals or convicted them on a less charge rather than see them swing resulting in overcrowding of jails and prison hulks. Transportation seemed to be the only solution and Australia was now the only venue.

In May 1787 the first convict fleet, under Commander Arthur Phillips set sail from Portsmouth for Eastern Australia via Rio de Janeiro and the Cape of Good Hope, a journey of 15,900 miles, carrying a total of 1,350 convicts, The fleet arrived at “Botany Bay” on the 20th January 1788 but found this anchorage unsuitable and by the 26th January moved on and settled upon Port Jackson as the first convict settlement, Phillips named the cove where his ships anchored “Port Sydney” in honour of the then Home Secretary, Lord Sydney, who was responsible for transportation scheme to Australia. Surprisingly of the 757 convicts only 40 died enroute considering the deplorable and unsanitary conditions during the long voyage. Unfortunately the second transportation fleet did not do so well, of the 1,270 convicts 278 died enroute and a further 500 did not survive long after landing and having to endure sickness, hunger and back breaking hard work, such was the reality of life for the early Colonial settlers.

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Eventually the settlements survived the “starvation years” as the early period was named, a wider Colonial society developed, family groups soon emerged and some convicts were allowed to send home for their wives (or husbands) and children.. such was the founding of Australia as we know it.

**The Tolbooth, Aberdeen**

Built between 1616 and 1629, The Tolbooth was the prison for the Royal Burgh of Aberdeen until the 19th century. Primarily intended for short stay prisoners, the captives were usually awaiting trial or awaiting freedom when monies or a dept settled, but the Tolbooths were used as required and bigger city burghs like Aberdeen had the most appalling conditions, throwing debtors, thieves, rapists, murderers and political prisoners (like the Culloden prisoners of 1746) in together.

The inmates, male, female and even children were all kept together in tiny, filthy cells, many different methods were used to shackle, mutilate and torture these unfortunate prisoners especially in the 1600s, there was no sanitation and all shared one overflowing bucket, so disease was rife.

Most Tollbooths were close proximity to the gallows and it was a short walk for those found guilty of serious crime, Many were hanged, disembowelled and beheaded, their heads then being placed on spikes outside the Tolbooth as a warning to others.. This type of execution was commonly known as being “Hung, Drawn and Quartered”

Most of those found guilty, even if innocent, had little chance of reprieve because many of those who sat in judgement were probably more corrupt and dishonest than any prisoner… e.g. In the mid 1800s a few Merchants along with some of the Magistrates organised the kidnapping of hundreds of young children, many of them waifs and strays from the town and countryside… Until a ship was available, these children were kept under lock and key in various places, including the “Tolbooth” from where they were eventually transported to the America’s and sold as indentured servants, in other words

29 “slaves”

One of these children was a Peter Williamson who eventually escaped home and wrote a book about his ordeals and exposed these so called people in authority for what they truly were…......

1803

Soon after John,s release from the Tolbooth and because there was the possibility he was classed as a criminal after his run in with the Excise men. John Cow instead of moving to Charlestown or St Combs might have had little alternative, on the demise of Boatlea but move to the new fishing village of Rattray (Botany) …..and this is where we find him and his wife Margaret in early 1803….

They had eight surviving children all born in Botany: John b 1816 (twin) married Margaret Gordon on 24th Oct 1835, William b 1816 (twin) married Chistian Stephen on 16th July 1839 Andrew b 1820 married Barbara Cooper on 16th Sept 1839 Jane b 1823 married William Buchan 4th July 1844 Isabella b 1824 Mary b 1825 (twin) d 1922 David b 1825 (twin) married Elspet Buchan 18th Oct 1855 Margaret b 1828 d 1858

The hopes and expected success of Botany was never to materialise because of the harsh conditions.

At this time the fishermen were going to sea in a “Scaffie” initially these boats were very small, no more than 20 feet in length with a 12 foot beam, they were timber built and had what was called raked stern and curved bow they were two masted with a tall dipping lugsail and a mizzen sail, their short keel gave them good manoeuvrability in good weather but they tended to be unstable in bad weather but they were light enough to be hauled up onto the beaches and cost around £6 to build.

30 By 1835 these boats had increased in size to about 24ft to 26ft in length and with a 14foot beam and cost around £60

During these times all these boats were undecked and very basic, there was no shelter from the weather, the only respite for sleep being under the sail, to cook any food the men had to kindle a fire among the ballast stones. Because of these boats vulnerability, they fished only a few miles out and in full view of land. It wouldn’t be until the late 1850s when fishing boats were first decked.

These boats weren’t really fit for the storms and heavy sea’s around Rattray Head and life was very difficult because of the many days lost and the poor fishing, the fishermen in order to survive and feed their families, snared rabbits, shooting ducks, geese and scurries (seagulls) anyone reading this in modern times would screw up their faces in disgust at the thought of eating scurries, but needs must, maybe a little salty but hale some sustenance.

Anyone of fisher descent in Peterhead or the surrounding coastal area would have ancestors who did partake in the occasional scurrie, of that there is no doubt….and also the occasional wreck could be depended on tae end up on the “Briggs” giving up its cargo before the ravages of the sea claimed it or the Excise men appeared…….

It is interesting to note that the fishermen went out shooting ducks and geese etc which begs the question, where did the guns come from considering they were supposed to be such poor souls???? It’s a good probability a few guns would have been procured from wrecks, after all most ships if they didn’t have cannon, most certainly they would have had a few guns. The seas were a very dangerous place in those days, prowled by privateers and pirates who had no scruples, any ship was fair game… Possibly some of the inhabitants were involved in the Jacobite uprisings after all the North East (Buchan) was a known for its Jacobite sympathies. maybe procuring a few muskets along the way……

John and Margaret certainly stayed in Botany for over thirty years bringing up a family, John jun, William and Andrew all were married and also lived

31 there, probably different houses but still enduring the same cramped living conditions and hardships……….

In the mid 1830s George Mudie Esq of Meethill decided to build a new fishing village consisting of about 30 houses situated near the burn of Invernettie and because it was a safe “haven” in the Bay of Sandford it was named “Burnhaven” consisting of Low Street, High Street and The Square.

In addition a small granite pier was also built at a cost of £300 in order to protect the open shore, many of the houses were built close to the shore nearly level with the high water mark, which was convenient for for the fishermen to haul their boats up to when returning from fishing and possible for storage during the harsh winter months when it was practically impossible to put to sea…..

Obviously George Mudie required fishermen to occupy his new village and the fishing community of Botany were quick to seize the opportunity which included John cow sen and family including his sons John, William and Andrew who were soon married and occupied houses in “The Square” and Low Street, where they brought up their families ………in fact all the fishers comprising of six or seven families made the move to Burnhaven, proving that all these fishermen had a bit of ambition and a desire to better themselves, they had become no less fisher by living in such a isolated community as “Botany” with all its adverse conditions to contend with, Burnhaven welcomed fishers from “Botany as well as from other fishing villages like Cairnbulg, St Combs, Charlestown etc

All the houses in Burnhaven were soon occupied, almost exclusively by fishermen but probably a few Coopers and other trades as well. The predominant family names being Buchan, Cow/Cowe, May, Reid, Ritchie.

By 1855 a fleet of eight herring boats plus sixteen smaller boats and yoles.

32 By 1871 sixty three fisher families occupied fifty seven houses.

Other fisher names of Buchan’s North East coast include : Buchan, Bruce and Strachan mainly located in the fishing village of Buchanhaven and Roanheads, Cordiner and Stephen mainly located in Boddam Village………

There are many more, for example Noble and Crawford in Broadsea, Fraserburgh. There is no doubt I have missed some names in the aforementioned fiahing villages, not intentional I can assure anyone who may read this story…

I have concentrated on the aforementioned Andrew Cow (my Gt Gt Grandfather) for continuation of the story………..

Andrew and Barbara had six surviving children, all sons,

David b 1840 1st wife Jessie Strachan, 2nd wife Helen Noble (from Broadsea, Fraserburgh)

Andrew b 1844 m Christian Taylor

Alexander b 1847 m Eliza Reid

Charles b 1849 1st wife Elizabeth Duthie 2ND wife Jessie Buchan

William b 1856 m Elizabeth “Betsy” Hughes (from Pitenweem) John b 1850 d 1859

David Cow b 1825 lived at 15 Low Street, Burnhaven David Cow b 1840 lived at 20 Low Street, Burnhaven John Cow b 1813 lived at 18 Low Street, Burnhaven Andrew Cow b 1844 lived at 13 Low Street, Burnhaven

33 Andrew Cow b 1820 lived at The Square, Burnhaven William Cow b 1816 lived at The Square, Burnhaven

after research I found no records of any daughters being born, there may have been but died in infancy and not registered

Although the fishermen all round the East Coast of Scotland were doing fairly well it did not come without a cost. There were always tragedies of boats being lost and men drowned, there was hardly a year went by without some fishing community loosing some of their menfolk to the perils of the sea.

One of the worst tragedies to occur happened on the 18/19th August 1848. Over 800 boats set sail on the 18th August from various ports from Wick in the North to Stonehaven in the South for the fishing grounds and as was usual shot their nets when they were about 10 miles from the coast. It had been a fine afternoon but by evening the weather had worsened a bit but not enough to deter them from their task even though the barometer had dropped considerably, they preferred to trust in their own judgement which was to end in disasterous consequences.

By midnight a south easterly wind was increasing, most Skippers by this time had decided to haul their gear early and head for the nearest safe harbour, Peterhead and Wick being most favoured, the seas had became mountainous and some boats decided to lay offshore rather than attempt entering port. By 3 a.m. the south easterly was at its peak along with driving rain.

Onshore the houses shook and windows rattled awakening the inhabitants who then anxiously made their way down to the harbour, A large crowd of men and the womanfolk of the fishermen gathered together at the shore of Peterhead watching the unfortunate vessels, at one moment they could be seen at the crests of the waves and just as quickly lost from sight in the hollows, every disappearance feared to be final, the cries and wails of the womanfolk being heard above the wind and raging surf.

Owing to the awkward entrance at Peterhead Harbour and the difficulty of entering when the wind was blowing S.E. thirty boats were a total loss,

34 thirty three extensively damaged and lying on the the rocks, in all thirty one men lost their lives plus an additional eleven Buckie men from twelve boats.

Forty one boats were also lost at Wick with the loss of thirty seven men, in total from all ports one hundred and twenty four boats were lost along with the lives of over a hundred men that August day, a terrible tragedy which would have been far worse considering well over eight hundred fishing boats had sailed that fatefull day, if it were not for many of the Skippers heading for harbour at the first sign of bad weather looming…

Captain John Washington who was responsible for the port of Peterhead described the tragic event in a report to the Commisioners recommending harbour improvements, fishing boats to be decked and lifeboats to be stationed at larger harbours. It is also interesting to note that Captain Washington requested the Steamer Dorothy to go to the aid of the ailing fishing boats but the Steamer,s Master, Captain Brand refused out of fear for his own vessel, this despite a £50 reward being offered. I am inclined to agree with Captain Brand, otherwise the death toll might have been much greater.

------

Mortality rates were still high in these days with no cures for illness like diphtheria, scarlet fever, pneumonia, polio etc etc immunisation was a thing far in the future as yet…if that was not enough, many women died in childbirth, hence 2nd marriages….

Women were the stalwarts behind their men in all the fishing communities, Wholley involved all domestic and business matters, also gathering bait and baiting the lines, selling fish and bringing up families… An old East Coast saying sums this up very well…………

“No man can be a fisher and lack a wife”

Which confirms why some fishermen were often married twice even thrice not because of any matrimonial disagreements, purely necessity…plus as was so often the case, there would be young children to the 1st marriage...

35 Woman and especially widows who had lost their men to the sea and had very little income, would load wicker creels usually with the smallest of the catch onto their backs and walk many miles up the country to barter with farmers and crofters for butter, eggs and vegetables, it was very hard work for these weemen, some of whom were quite elderly but as I can confirm fae my Grannies times, many a friendship endured for many years between the countrae folk and the fisher folk…..………..another apt saying

“Cargo baith wyes”

Life was fairly good in Burnhaven especially with the fishermen now fishing for herring in addition to the line fishing, this necessated a need for bigger boats and the “Fifie” came to the fore from the 1850s The “Fifie” had a vertical stem and stern and from 1860 onwards were decked, and from the 1870s were built with “Carvel” planking, in other words the planks were laid edge to edge instead of the overlapping clinker style of previous boats.

The “Fifie” had two masts, a main dipping lug sail and a mizzen standing lug sail which were positioned forward and aft to give plenty of working deck space amidships, some of these boats were built as large as 60ft to 70ft and were very fast, depending on the weather being suitable….

By the early 1880s another new style of vessel became very popular along the whole of the North East coast, the “Zulu” taking its name from the Zulu war which was taking place in South Africa at this time. William “Dad” Campbell from Lossiemouth was the first to introduce this type of fishing boat, the “Nonesuch” around 1879. the Zulu had a high mast with huge mainsail and mizzen and jib, they could be anything from 60ft to 80ft in length with a crew of six or seven and usually a boy, all of which were usually related. The Zulu was both big and fast, ideal for herring fishing. They could reach the fishing grounds very quickly and return with the catch just as quick….

From the early 1900s many of the “Zulu’s” and “Fifies” were converted to engine power, and probably the forerunner of the diesel motor fishing boat.

There is no doubt by some of the old photographs saved from that era, that the fishermen of Burnhaven adapted to these new much larger types of fishing boats along with all the other fishing communities…

36 The fishermen of Burnhaven were doing very well, especially with the introduction of bigger, faster and more efficient boats, it still didn’t come without tragic cost, as the following story will testify which occurred in 1876 :

“Boat swamped at Peterhead”

The weather the last day or two has been very wintery looking and on Wednesday there was a high wind, with frequent showers of snow and hail The sea at Peterhead was very rough, especially in the South Bay. A rumour spread in the afternoon that a boat had been lost and the crew drowned, and on enquiry this proved to be “ower true a tale”

The boat in question belonged to Andrew Cow of Burnhaven, being so new had neither name nor number, having been newly launched, she was returning from the haddock fishing and was near the “Skerry Rock” about a mile of Boddam and about three from Peterhead harbour when taken by a fresh breeze in a heavy sea and swamped.

None of the boats near saw the catastrophe happen but it was seen from Burnhaven by Alexander Cow son of one of the crew...

It occurred about half past two on Wednesday afternoon. A large crowd gathered at the harbour and several boats were attracted towards the spot, where some portions of the gear of the unfortunate boat were picked up and brought into the harbour.

The whole crew drowned and to make a sad story worse it was found that they were all closely related to each other and all very energetic and hard working fishermen.

Andrew Cow sen (55) and William Cow (60) both residing at The Square, Burnhaven and Andrew Cow jun (17) son of David Cow and John Cow (15) son of David Cow sen and nephew of the first two named both residing at Low Street, Burnhaven.

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One of the boats nearby, the “Gypsy King” master Robert Bruce High Street Buchanhaven, found the body of Andrew Cow sen shortly after the accident and brought it into Peterhead, The other bodies have not been recovered...

Much sympathy is felt with the friends of the deceased who are all closely related.

Andrew Cow sen was my Gt Gt Grandfather, William sen was his brother, Andrew Cow jun was the son of my Gt Grandfather David Cow, John Cow was the son of David Cow sen another brother of the above Andrew and William......

Alexander Cow was the son of Andrew Cow sen……….

n.b.My above forbearers must have been really anxious to try out their new boat even before she was named or numbered, I know there were quite a few other boats out at sea that day from Buchanhaven, Boddam, Roanheads as well as Burnhaven but these boats had been tried and tested, the forecast wasn’t great, surely it would have been more sensible to wait for better weather to fish with an unknown boat…Then again I wasn’t there and don’t prophesise to being an expert. Certainly Andrew and William would have been very experienced fishermen of long years….I can only conclude, they were unlucky, it wasn’t a unique occurrence, with many fishermen from practically every fishing port losing their lives over the years………..

One other question arises, why did Alexander Cow son of the drowned Andrew Cow (sen) witness the swamping of the boat from Burnhaven after all Burnhaven is fairly low lying to the sea, he must have been located somewhere along High Street which was quite elevated and would have given quite good visibility for miles, why was he not onboard with his father, did he have a premonition and refuse to go.

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We will never know and must put it down to the price the sea demands…. n.b.b. My Gt Grandfather David Cow lost another son, Alexander, aged 21 years who went overboard from the fishing boat PD38 about 5 miles from Peterhead on the 22nd December 1893

During my research I found the following story

A sad drowning accident occurred on Friday morning in Peterhead While the crew of the fishing boat PD38 were shooting their lines about two or three miles from land, one of their number Alexander Cow, 19 years of age, son of the late Mr David Cow, Roanheads overbalanced himself and fell headlong into the sea. His companions hung oars and lines to his assistance, but though he was an expert swimmer, he was overweighted by his sea boots and immediately sank. The boat remained in the vicinity of the spot where the unfortunate occurance took place, but the body never rose to the surface again.

1) Alexander was 21 years old 2) David Cow his father was not deceased (he died 1900) 3) PD38 It is strange there is no mention of the boats name and even more intriguing, during my research of that era, I found 2 boats with that same number, The “Rose of Sharon” owner David Cow & The “Margaret Buchan” owned by James Cow of St Combs.

I would be confident in stating, there is not a fishing family from village or town that has not been touched by the heartache of tragedy and loss of their kinfolk…to the sea…

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One of the worst disasters of fishermen being lost took place on the 18th October 1881 where a total of 189 men of which 129 came from Eyemouth lost their lives… This was about one in three of the entire adult male population of the town. Many women lost both a husband and a son, in some cases two sons...

The following version of the story “Black Friday” 1881 Eyemouth

I have written to my knowledge what happened that day, a really catastrophic event:

1881

In the Autumn of 1881 Eyemouth the homeport of 55 fishing boats, seven were at the Herring fishing at Great Yarmouth, the other 48 were line fishing from their home town, October of 1881 had brought a spell of particularly bad weather and by Friday the 14th the Eyemouth fleet had been kept in harbour for the whole week. On the Friday morning the men gathered as usual to assess the weather and the likelihood of at least a day’s fishing.

During the night a gale from the East-Southeast had finally fallen away by 5 a.m. The morning had dawned calm and clear although the weatherglass (barometer) was abnormally low.

The older more experienced cautioned against putting to sea, but the younger men were impatient, bait was getting stale and families had to be fed, and also men with money tied up in boats and gear, had loans to repay.

By 7.30 a.m. the first boat put to sea and one by one the others followed in tight formation, fanning out as they passed the Hurker rocks, including those with reservations, unwilling tae be thocht o as “feart” Little did they know that a storm had already broken farther South..

The fishing fleet from Eyemouth sailed for just over 3 hours a distance of eight or nine miles and the first arrivals at the fishing grounds were shooting their lines when as a St Abbs woman wrote to a friend at the time.

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“A horrible sort of stillness fell over everything”

The light wind died away and the sky darkened with storm clouds, The suddenness of such a storm would catch many by surprise, but many responded with automatic response of experience, There was no time to haul lines already shot and they were let go. The boats heads were then brought round to the wind and sails reefed. Decisions were made whether to run for Eyemouth or weather the storm at sea …Attempts to return to harbour were hopeless in the face of such a wind, all these boats which did try to enter the harbour were driven onto the rocks. Desperate relatives and friends of the fishermen tried to reach them, but failed, In many cases, women on shore watched their husbands and sons drown and were even close enough to hear their cries for help. The only boats which returned safely were those who had continued down the coast and able to land at ports on Tyneside.

The crew of the “Ariel Gazell” rode out the storm far out to sea only returning home two days later when all hope had been given up for them. The skipper of the boat was so exhausted; he had to be carried ashore. The next day he attended the funeral of his son who had been lost on another boat…

As one old experienced fisher prophesised that morning:

“They’ll no be sae close igither when they come hame”

I cannot leave the tragedy of the “Black Friday” of 1881 there because unfortunately on that same terrible day a Schooner from Peterhead was also lost with all hands, one of whom was related to my family……….

41 “The Sinking of the “Jane” of Peterhead”

With the loss of all hands in the Great Storm of October 14th 1881

The sad intelligence reached Peterhead last night that the schooner “Jane” belonging to this port, bound for the Tyne laden with a cargo of coals, had gone ashore at Dunbar and all hands had been lost.

The names of the crew were, William Mackie, (Captain) James Cowe, James Marshall and Michael Kelly. Captain Mackie was 62 years of age and had traded on the East Coast for half that period, he was part owner of the schooner “Jane” and belonged to Peterhead where he leaves a widow and daughter, the other members of the crew this ill starred schooner : Michael Kelly 26 unmarried, leaving a widowed mother, James Cowe 40 leaving a widow but no children, and James Marshall leaving a widow and family…

The recovery of the bodies at the “Kettle” confirms the impression originally stated by the coastguardsmen at Dunbar, that the men had been washed overboard before the schooner foundered on the rocks about half a mile further east.

Aberdeen Journal, Thursday October 20th

The loss of the Schooner “Jane”

, All the bodies of the crew of the Schooner “Jane” which foundered off Dunbar in the recent gale, have now arrived in Peterhead, those of Captain Mackie, James Cowe and James Marshall being brought on Tuesday and that of Michael Kelly yesterday. The funeral of the four mariners, which is to be a public one, takes place one o’clock on Friday…

Aberdeen Journal, Wednesday October 26th:

The wreck of the Schooner “Jane”

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Mr Alexander Brodie, Broxburn, writes : The bodies of the Captain and the three men , comprising the crew of the Schooner “Jane” of Peterhead , came ashore here and were taken charge of by Mr Hutcheson, Fish curer, who was a long standing friend of Captain Mackie, with the greatest kindness had them coffined and sent on to Peterhead, The railway charge for carriage amounts to £38. 4 s (this needs no comment) I hope the fund for the relief of the widows and fatherless will extend to the families of these poor men. The Captain was part owner of the vessel, Owing to the vessel being uninsured, I understand his family are left nearly destitute.

Ironically, Captain Mackie, just before the storm broke, warned some of the fishermen to get into harbour, as his barometer was falling so rapidly that he was sure a fearful storm was coming . n.b. ref : (this needs no comment) I will comment on this, and can only surmise the writer, Mr Alexander Brodie was so disgusted with the Railway Companies attitude of profit before compassion. Whereas Mr Hutcheson was a gentleman of the highest order who arranged for coffins and the transport home of the deceased at his own expense, a true friend indeed.

Before we leave Burnhaven for pastures new I must include here a small extract of a poem by Peter Buchan, well known local writer of poems and stories. who also has roots from Burnhaven…

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***To a Burnie***

There’s a bit o a Burnie aboot ye, A something a cannae weel name, It’s nae verra gweed, Bit it rins in yer bleed

It seems tae the truth yare a stranger, I’m gyaan by the binders ye tell Bit it’s a, richt wae me, For I’m mair than half a Burnie masel.

I’m sure Peter wouldn,t object tae me including this piece, Efter a there’s a fair bit a Burnie aboot mysel as well

Although Burnhaven was like heaven on earth to the many fisher families compared to the hardships Botany and other fishing villages, yes it was a success but with the far larger boats pursuing the herring and eventually the introduction of the Steam Drifter the village was by the 1870s rapidly becoming unsuitable to the needs of the fishermen, especially the younger married men with families to feed and not without ambition to better themselves.

By the late 1890s the only fishermen left in Burnhaven were a few of the older men reluctant to give up the old way of life until old age and waning strength eventually forced them eventually to move on as well.

The village did not die totally when the fishers left because country people employed in other industry, like quarrying moved into some of the houses. Sadly in the 1960s /70S? Burnhaven was bulldozed into oblivion to make way for a sewage works. In reality Burnhaven only existed as a fishing village for just a little over 50 years………

And so like the Children of Israel’s exodus from Egypt, The “Burnies” left their village enmasse, some settled “Ower the Queenie” or more correctly

44 Keith Inch, some to the South Bay area, mainly Merchant Street and Jamaica Street, some even went to Boddam, just a couple of miles South of Burnhaven, but most went to the Roanheads area of Peterhead, to new housing which had been built and provided an opportunity for fishermen from Burnhaven to migrate to Peterhead, specifically Great Stuart Street which was built around 1877……….obviously because so much “Burnies” went to Great Stuart Street it soon became known as “The Burnie Streetie” not as some would think, because there was a burn close by…

It is interesting to note that the 1881 census showed that all five surviving sons of Andrew Cow and Barbara Cooper all lived in the “Burnie Streetie”

Andrew Cow b 1844 2, Great Stuart Street Charles Cow b 1849 3, Great Stuart Street David Cow b 1840 4, Great Stuart Street Alexander Cow b 1847 5, Great Stuart Street William Cow b 1856 also 2, Great Stuart Street

The following is a list of some of the fishing sail boats that the Cow/Cowe family owned or had an interest in between the years 1869 to 1889

PD 11 Ocean Queen PD 42 Happy Return PD 38 Rose of Sharon PD 38 Margaret Buchan PD 48 Morning Star PD 50 Band of Hope PD 245 Christina PD 261 Tranquil

PD 266 Britannia PD 488 Rob Roy PD 1430 Lily of the Valley PD 515 Olive Branch

I’m sure there was more, ironically another boat with the same name as the last one mentioned here was to meet a tragic end, the story of which will be

45 included in later pages…………

We continue with my Gt Grandfather David Cow b 1840 who married Jessie Strachan on the 3rd March 1860, probably in the Chapel at Burnhaven.

They had the following family :

Andrew b 1859 Burnhaven David b 30th May 1862 Burnhaven John b 2nd Sept 1864 Burnhaven Barbara b 8th Apr 1866 Burnhaven

Sadly Jessie died 28th Feb 1868 of Pneumonia born for 10 days

This left David Cow a widower with a young family all under 10 years of age. As already mentioned a fisherman in those days could not survive without a wife. And so it was that he married Helen Noble from Broadsea, Fraserburgh On the 2nd Nov 1869 also in all probability in the Chapel of Burnhaven. How he met her is unknown but it is likely they were connected in common ancestry dating back to Boatlea………..

They had the following family:

Helen Noble b 1st Aug 1870 Burnhaven Alexander b 6th Aug 1872 Burnhaven Ann Noble (Annex) b11th July 1874 Burnhaven Andrew b 20th Aug 1880 Peterhead William b 10th Mar 1883 Peterhead Charles b 1885 Peterhead James b 1888 Peterhead

There seems to be a gap between 1874 – 1880 hard to believe there was no births, possibly infant mortality……and not registered…….

46

David Cow b1840 m Jessie Strachan & Helen Noble, Skipper and owner of Herring Sail Boats, “Rose of Sharon” & “Lily of the Valley”

David Cow b 1862 m Isabella Strachan, Skipper and owner of Herring Steam Drifter “Ella” PD 470

John Cow b 1864 m Annie Strachan. Skipper and owner of Herring Steam Drifter “Guide Me II” which was lost in a collision of the Muggins whilst serving in R.N.

Charles Cow b1885 m Annie Findlay, Skipper and owner of Herring Steam Drifters “Vine” PD 156 & “Burnhaven” PD 591

In his early years Charles was a heavy drinker, I can remember my father telling me that it wasn’t unusual for him to be winched onto his boat by herring basket, he was so intoxicated but in later years he saw the “Light” and became a Christian and was a leading figure at the Seamen’s Mission in Peterhead, often leading meetings when the Superindendant wasn’t available. He was well known as a great preacher……

I cannot be a 100% accurate with fishing boats and owners; the aforementioned is just some of the boats I have found in research, Obviously most boats were on a share basis, Banks usually being major holders and others.

There was usually share holders with the gear and nets as well, this was a sensible arrangement because the profits could be shared and more importantly, losses shared as well…………………

Towards the end of the 1890s a new type of fishing boat came to the fore, namely the Steam Drifter, The drifter was a large boat of 80 to 90ft in length

47 and a beam of around 20ft, weighing 40 to 50 tons. They could reach speeds of 9 to 11 knots. The first Drifters were built of wood but steel hulls were soon introduced…well designed for the job of catching herring, they had a wheelhouse and deckhouse. There was no need for sails but they still retained a mizzen which helped to steady the boat when the nets were shot.

They also retained the forward mast which in combination with the derrick was used for landing the catch. They also had a steam capstan on the foredeck which was used for hauling the nets. These boats were nicknamed “Woodbines” because of their tall funnels which from a distance looked like the then popular brand of cigarettes, this helped to keep the smoke and steam clear of the crew.

A Herring Drifter could have as much as 10 to 12 of a crew which consisted of the Skipper, Mate, Engineer, Fireman, Cook and deckhands. The Engineer was in charge of the steam engine and the fireman had the busy job of keeping the boiler stoked with coal. Whilst hauling a good catch the Engineer could “scum” the herring that dropped out of the nets, in doing this he earned “stoker” which was shared between himself, the fireman and the cook. The reason for this was because these three were on a wage as opposed to the rest of the crew being a “share” basis for wages, that is a share of the money realised by the catch after all expenses were paid.

The fireman also took a turn on deck when the boat was fishing, his job was to coil the “leader” (bush) rope to which the nets were tied.

Cooking onboard a drifter wasn’t very easy, cooking was done in the galley on a coal fired stove, every two or three days the cook would clean obout three dozen herring and fry them for the crew after the nets were aboard. Because the drifter was a lot bigger than the old sail boats it could carry seventy to eighty nets, therefore catching more herring for a market which was growing quickly at the beginning of the 20th century.

48 They could also steam faster and further with little effect from wind and tide. Less time was required getting to and from the fishing grounds with the result the drifter landed fresher herring and commanded higher prices….

Fishermen usually sailed or steamed to where they thought they would find herring, nets were usually shot at dusk when the herring were feeding close to the surface, the “Drifter” would then swing round to face the wind and was left to drift for most of the night, when the fish swam into the nets the mesh only allowed an adult herring to enter as far as its head and when it tried to wriggle backwards it was caught in the mesh by its gills. Hence the name “Herring Drifter”

When all the nets were hauled and there was descent catch the Drifter would steam for port at top speed to get the best prices, enroute the nets would be “redded up” that is cleaned, not an easy task in a heavy sea, any nets not red up in the way in would be cleaned after landing… the measurement for establishing the amount of herring landed was known as a “cran” a herring, which consisted of four baskets containing approximately 1,000 herring, it wasn’t unusual for a Drifter to land a hundred cran….. One of the most expensive items of gear of course was the nets, as I have mentioned already, a third party sometime had a share of the nets therefore spreading expenses.

Up until the mid 1850s nets were made from linen or hemp which limited the amount of nets a boat could carry due to their weight but by the 1860s onwards cotton nets were introduced, they were lighter, not so bulky and more flexible, although they could tear more easily the boats could carry more and they were easier to haul.

Continual exposure to salt water caused the nets to rot, to extend their use the nets were regularly immersed in a solution of oak or birch bark, it was boiled to make a tar like solution in which the nets were soaked. the nets were then hung out to dry before being used again. This whole process was known as “Barking”

49 n.b. Well do I remember when I was a youngster, the fishermen coming up to the top of Balmoor terrace on a lorry loaded with steaming nets, throwing a net of every 100 yards or so, then they would hang them on the fences surrounding the fields to dry, you could walk all the way out to the Ugie Brig and every fence was covered with herring nets, I suspect the farmers wouldn’t have done any complaining after all some of the “bark” would have rubbed of onto their fences, indirectly helping to preserve his fences.

The disadvantage of the Steam Drifter was the operating costs, they were expensive to fit out and they used large quantities of coal. To build a Drifter before WWI broke out would cost between £3,000 and £4,000 at that time a lot of money, to cover these costs they needed to fish longer seasons and many boats were company or owned on a share basis…

The staple diet of fisherfolk was quite simple, consisting of porridge, hame made soups of all kinds of which vegetable broth was the most favoured, Hame made scones and pancakes, oatcakes were also made almost everyday some of which were taken onboard the drifters tae ate wae the herring. Saturday dinnertime nearly always consisted of “tatties n herrin” every fisher hame had a “firkin” a herrin, tae tide them ower (a firkin was a small barrel one quarter the size of a normal barrel) the name probably has Dutch origins.

Another favourite was “hairy tatties” this was made from boiled tatties mixed with dried fish, usually ling, dried fish was also used tae make fish soup these fish would be cleaned and split, salted and laid out on the rocks don the braes tae dry in the sun, I can remember all these fish lying on the rocks when I played don the braes when a bairn, nobody touched them and the thing that stays in my memory, quite often they were covered in “bluebottles” literally crawling, can you imagine that situation today, no “Health and Safety” in those days and fore bys I never heard of anybody becoming sick or dieing through eating hard fish. When the fish was properly dried they were like pieces of wood... I can honestly say when I was young I loved “hairy tatties” and “fish soup” and at the time of writing, nearly sixty years on I’m still here, neen the ware o it……..

50 n.b. It was also imperative that the Sunday “broth” wis made on a Saturday night, I can also recall gan doon tae the butchers for a bit a boiling beef tae mak the broth wae, sometimes a pun a mince and a bone for the dog ?? aye, maybe the dog got the bone but efter it wis used for makin soup, this was a common thing back then but pride noo n again stopped folk fae asking for a bone tae mak soup, anaither thing that took place then, oor shoes had tae be blackened and polished the nicht afore, because in maist fisher hooses naebody did ony work on the Lords Day.

No washing or hanging oot clothes on a Sunday was strictly adhered to …

Mind ye it wis awfa fine tae get a plate a hame made broth on a Saturday nicht, a mine my mither saying, if you lot dinnae stop ating the broth, there’ll be naething left for Sunday but there aye wis maybe even some left ower tae Monday, (overdays) efter a the broth pot was a monstrous thing.

It was said that the two most dangerous jobs in this country were fishing and mining, The fishermen had an unstable floor and the miners had an unstable roof. Which would account for the regular church attendance by most fishermen and their families. Each family had their own Kirk but most Fishermen in Peterhead would have attended the “Congregational Church” in Queen Street known then as the “Fishers kirk” The “Salvation Army Citadel” in Chapel Street was also attended well by fishers,

Manys the young person who learned to play the “toot a roo” trumpet etc whilst being part of the Salvation Army band………..The “Deep Sea Mission” in Uphill Lane was the other place of worship mainly but not restricted to fisher folk…

I believe the “Mission” in Charlotte Street first opened its doors in 1922 under Captain Andrew Cow, not sure of relationship but definitely connected.

51 n.b. I can remember again as a young boy going down tae the “Mission” efter the evening service at the Kirk during the 1950s, in fact people went doon tae the Mission fae maist o the Kirks, it sticks in the memory how uplifting it was to hear a packed Mission Congregation all singing in unison, especially the men when it came to singing such hymns as, “Will your Anchor hold” and “The Old Rugged Cross”

During the 1920s there was a great religious revival amongst fishermen nowhere more so than Peterhead, many great preachers came to the fore and many were converted and professed salvation, I cannot say for sure but maybe this was not a bad thing at the time because prior to the Religious Revival drunkenness and disorderly behaviour was quite a common way of life with many fishermen, this of course had a roll on effect with family life and personal economy, and of course the dangers and perils of the deep would have on many an occasion seen many a fishermen on his knees praying to heaven…. and being saved….

This story is not about Religion, I include it because it was so important as part of life in fishing communities…I am not a practicing Christian but will always be grateful for being brought up in the Kirk, attending Sunday School when a youngster, it didn’t do me any harm and I learned a lot from decent honest people, in fact it groomed you to be a good human being with the ability to think………..

I’ll leave this topic with a piece from the Bible.

Ecclesiastes,

“The individual can find truth, by using his powers of observation and reason, instead of blindly following tradition”

52 Sometimes, especially during the summer months after the Kirk came oot in the evening, the whole family would go for a walk if the weather was fine but as soon as they got home again, the Sunday Claes were removed and hung up; most of the men wore dark navy coloured suits and a bonnet. These same suits were multi-purpose and would be worn at weddings and funerals. n.b. again as a young boy I can remember some of the funerals that took place doon the Roanheads, Usually the deceased would lie in the front room for three days wae the coffin open so that visitors could pay their respects. The Minister would conduct the service in the hoose which in most cases wis a very crowded affair, after the service the hearse would proceed up Ugie road, along King Street and eventually to Constituition Street Cemetery.

The Mourners in their “Sunday Best” would walk six abreast all the way to the graveside, anyone who was to the side of the road would stop whatever they were doing, remove their caps, and stand silently until the cortège was past as a mark of respect.. In those days it was unheard of for a woman to follow a hearse or to attend the final service at the graveside.

I have digressed a bit but now continue the story with my Grandfather, William Cow b 10th Mar 1883 it interesting that the name Cow had the “e” added around this time, according to a story my father told me, when his father was at school, one of the teachers thought thought it was a stupid name and decided it would be better with an “e” added on, I don’t know if he meant it to be pronounced “Cowie” but that never happened although if anyone cares to research I’m fairly confident that all Cowie, s, Cowe, s Coe,

etc all originate from the name “Kow/Coo/Cow” in fact if the so called teacher had done his homework he would have discovered it is one of the oldest names in this country, going back to “Mary Queen of Scots” and beyond into the mists of time……………but that is another story…………….

53 William married Mary Jane Buchan b 21st Dec 1885 on the 28th Dec 1904 in Peterhead, probably in the Congregational Church….

They had the following family:

William b 1906 Charles (Cha) b 1909 George Buchan b 1912 David b 1915 Peter Buchan b 1921

There was two other sons, John and Andrew but they must have died in infancy or childbirth…………..

My Granny’s Father and Mother were:

William Buchan and Margaret Buchan,

William’s Father and Mother were:

Charles Simpson Buchan and Mary Cow

What is interesting here is, Mary Cow’s Father and Mother were:

John Priece Cow and Margaret Murray

This is the same John Cow mentioned previously who was arrested in Jan 1803 and taken to the Tolbooth in Aberdeen.

Interestingly Mary Cow was my Grandfather’s Gt Grandmother and also my Grandmother’s Grandmother……

54 This is just an example of Fisher folk marrying their own kind because a Fishermen knew very well if he married a woman who was also from a Fisher family, she would know all about baiting lines, mending nets etc after all as mentioned earlier,

**No man can be a Fisher and lack a wife**

My Grannie was born 21st Dec 1885 the eldest of five of a family, she had four younger brothers, William (Willmie) Charles (Chalkie) George (Georgie) and Peter who sadly died at the young age of 37 years. All fishermen. Life was pretty hard for a young girl in the late 1800s most houses would have been lighted by gas, Being the oldest she would have been expected to help in the house, there was no washing machines, usually one day every week was “wash day” all clothes would have been washed/boiled in the “Wash House” which was usually situated roon the back o the main hoose, The boiler was usually encased wae bricks and had grate at the front for kindling a fire which heated the water in the boiler...

After scrubbing by hand and rinsing several times the washing wid then be put through the “Mangle” (a device usually made of wrought iron which had two big wooden rollers which were turned by a handle at the side. This job would have been done by the daughter of the hoose (caein the handle) sometimes, if she wis lucky one of her younger brothers might have been ordered tae dae it. In some cases where there wisnae enough room in the “backie” (backyard) tae hing oot the washing, it wid have been cairted doon tae the braes tae be hung oot or even layed oot the rocks tae dry.

Most houses wid have had a loft where the Herring nets were kept, At a fairly young age she wid have been taught by her mither how tae mend nets that had been damaged or torn during the Herrin season. This was usually a family affair which usually only the females of families carried oot, Grandmothers, Mothers, Daughters, Aunts, cousins and friends.

The mennin o the nets wis usually carried out during the evenings when all other daily tasks were complete, it was also convenient for the rendering of all the latest news and most importantly, gossip!!

55

It could be a different house/loft every time because so many relations and friends had Drifters wae nets tae mend and everybody helped each other during “menin” time. n.b. I can remember as a young loon (boy) gan doon tae visit my grannie one evening, in those days the front door was always unlocked, naebody locked their doors unless the hoose wis gan tae be empty for a considerable time like the Yarmouth Fishing, efter a found she wisnae in, a asked the wifie next door if she kent (knew) far (where) she wis (was) an wis telt, “she’s awae mennin” and this was when she was quite old but nae surprising because a the auld wifies were dab hands at the mennin..

It was also common practice for Fisher quines (girls) and wifies to go up the country (mainly during the Summer months) wae a creel full o various fish to sale or barter, quite often they would trade for butter, eggs, vegetables etc Lasting friendships were made and acquaintances kept for the rest of their lives.

I can remember as a young boy going with my father and grannie to Mintlaw by car to visit a Mrs Smith who lived in a small croft, she was a widow as was my Grannie and their friendship continued till Mrs Smith passed away….indeed a lasting friendship between a Fisher wifie and a country wifie……….

All her life my Grannie was a member of “The Salvation Army” as was her Folk afore her, my grandfather was brought up as a member of the “Congregational Church” although I don’t think he was a regular attendee. Recalling the following story which my father related to me: If my Grandfather wasn’t awae at the fishing and at home on a Saturday night, they wid baith (both) put on their good claes for going out, after supper they wid (would) leave the hoose together and walk up the toon, my Grandfather would see my Grannie to the door of the Salvation Army Hall in Chapel Street, then he would go to the Pub for a couple of pints but always he was back at the Salvation Army door to pick her up when the service was finished whereupon they would then walk home together… They surely must have had an understanding and tolerant relationship with each other.

56

Every Sunday after the Sunday School came out my bother Neil and myself always went doon tae see oor Grannie Cowe, I always enjoyed these visits because she always seemed to have tatties left ower fae dinner time and would always have them lined up on the old fashioned grate (fireside) roasting, we thought this was a great treat, especially if it wis a cauld day. Mind ye we often burnt the points o oor fingers through impatience tae get at the roast tatties. We would sit on the long stool which was the length of the fireside, it also had a lid and inside were kept shoe brushes, polish and clothes for daein the shoes.

We sometimes got a cup a tae (tea) as well and always Ginger Snaps, which were always as hard as a brick, but we soon learned aff a Grannie, that if ye dipped them in yer tae first they were a lot easier tae ate…

There is one thing I’ll never forgive her for (of course I do) My Father came hame one day and produced a parcel from his mother for us loons, ye, ve niver seen the like in yer life (even in the 1950s) Knitted drawers, they were even a “sciry” (bright) colour. we’re nae wearin that, aye ye will, if yer Grannie finds oot ye hinnae worn them she winnae be awfa pleased efter a the effort she made knitting them, we had nae choice, awae we went tae school wae these itchy drawers, how embarrassing if somebody saw them, I mean this wid be a, right for a fishermen tae wear under a his gear but a young loon, fortunately naebody noticed. I think oor mither took pity and because we had worn them, that qualified as being used.

Which reminds me of many an occasion when I went into my Grannie,s hoose she wid be winding wool fae “hanks” into a ball, I think this was tae stop the wool “revelling” (getting tangled up) when she wis wiving (knitting) So I wid be handed the “hank” of wool which I wid hold my hands about 18 inches apart whilst my Grannie wid wind the wool intae a ba (ball) Strange how memory can recall, I can’t remember her calling wool, wool It wis always, oo???

57

I was always told that my Grannie was a strong and hard working woman but when her man’s boat (more on this later) was lost with all hands including her man, three sons and other relations.

She was working in a gutting yard at the time as was all the fisher woman folk, when she was told by the Salvation Army mannie, she collapsed with shock. It took her over six months to return to some kind of normal living although in reality that could never be...

I don’t think she would have recovered at all if she had not been a strong person with an even stronger Faith !!!

We continue with my Grandfather William Cowe, born in 4,Great Stuart Street on the 10th March 1883 to David Cow and Helen Noble…

I would think he went to the North School but probably from his earliest years would have yearned to go to the “fishing” after all it had been in the blood for many many generations, it was a way of life, all his folk without exception were fishermen, father, brothers, grandfathers, uncles and cousins. In his early years he would have played doon the braes at Roanheads like all fisher bairns , catching bandies and when a bittie aulder nae doubt doon the North pointie wae a linie catching poddlies and such, if nae dae,n that, probably clambering a ower the boats in the hairbour. In all probability, he wid have scoffed the school usually on a Friday afternoon tae ging his first trips tae sea, he would have had plenty opportunities on his father’s or uncle’s sailboats during the early 1890s.

The following poem typifies a young loon (boy) gan catchin wae a linie scrannin (scrounging) a herrin or twae for bait. I can recall dae, n this myself but alas this pastime is long gone, sure we still get loons and mannies gan catchin but wae the latest fancy rods, jist nae the same??? I don’t know the title but have added een myself……………..

58

“Eence upon a time”

Twa or three huckies in his ganzie In his pouch a penny line Or could he raise a penny It micht be some barkit line

Dinnae speer at me fae ee wis That’s a thing a cannae tell Stack yer een, an think a filie Could it nae hae been yersel.

Author Unknown

By the time he left school he would have witnessed the first Steam Drifters which came to the fore during the late 1890s This must have been a fascinating time for a young man to experience the transformation from sail to steam power…

We can only imagine the difference in the working conditions for fishermen, Boats completely decked with proper wheelhouse and galley, steam capstain to help to haul herring nets, bunks to sleep in etc….

The following poem by Gladys Milne gives an insight of family gan aboard tae see their folk, probably just before they set sail for the herring season at Great Yarmouth.

59 “In The Drifter”

(Extract)

The crew,s invited us doon the day, Before they ging awae The crew wid offer oot a han To help you on deck,

Too soon, twis back tae quay again, The siren,s blast, “Goodbye!” Wi smiling face an tear dimmed een We waved them on their wye.

Gladys Milne

His uncle’s and older brothers would have moved onto these new Steam Drifters and he would have gained a lot of experience sailing with them.

William married Mary Jane Buchan on the 28th Dec 1904, he was 21 years of age, I am almost certain he was a Skipper before he married although I Haven’t managed to confirm this or any boat he may have skippered up to this date. The earliest boat that I have managed to confirm he Skippered was the “Norman” PD 502 which was a trawler built 1894 but later converted to a Drifter, which was bought by Andrew Cow, William Cowe and J.Mitchell during 1907……………

There was various other Drifters owned/part owned by Cow/Cowe family members which at one time or another my Grandfather quite possibly “Skippered” or worked on between 1901 and 1923 n.b. this doesn’t include WWI years 1914 - 1918

PD 23 General French PD24 Resolve

60 PD105 Agnes Weston PD118 Lilium PD144 Guide Me II PD151 Linum PD156 Vine PD161 Mary PD259 Adventure (Trawler) PD470 Ella PD471 Kathleen PD511 Inverugie PD577 Girl Ivy PD591 Burnhaven

There is undoubtedly many more and is only partly listed as an example of how much individual families from not only the North East of Scotland but all over the U.K. were wholly committed to the fishing industry..

Life was pretty good for all with the amount of herring being exported abroad, especially to the Russian markets. This of course had a snowball effect with employment. All over Scotland especially the East Coast, Curing/gutting yards and Coopering yards sprang up in places like Wick, Fraserburgh, Peterhead, to cope with the massive landings of herring.

Also ship building yards to meet the demand for building Drifters, again in places like Wick, Fraserburgh, Peterhead, and quite a few were built in Glasgow at “Smiths Dock” these were steel hulled boats and were commonly known as “Smith Dockies”

The following poem sums up very well the way of life for Fisher families during these times :

61 “At Yarmouth Time”

(Extract)

Fae the school tae the hairber, tae see them awae The Drifters blawin reek, an their sirens did blaw, Mi Da wavet his cape aye smilin tae me Bit there’s mair than the reek, thir,s a tear in ee,s ee.

Hid the fishin been guid, there’d be presents for a Gloves for my mither, for ma brither, a ba A dally for me or maybe a game Bit the best thin av a, he wis safely hame

Annonymous…

n.b. I don’t really know who wrote that piece, It feels like Peter Buchan or at least somebody fae Peterheid when they write aboot “blue ganzie, s” But then again the poet writes aboot getting a dally (dolly) so its mair than likely a quin that wrote it. Whitever, av only ay thing tae say, ye forgot tae mention “Pomegranates” fae could forget the sticks a Yarmouth rock and pickin the Pomegranate seeds oot wae a preen, or if ye wis a loon an nae sae fussy, bending back the skin an biting em oot wae yer teeth…..

Almost all Skippers and crews were enlisted in the “R.N.R” Royal Naval Reserve; all were paid a retainer and would have had to attend training possibly twice a year. It maybe that some thought this was money for “Old Rope” but one of the conditions was that, if war was to break out these R.N.R. personnel would be among the first to be called into service.

Little did anyone know that their peaceful, busy lives would be shattered by the outbreak of WWI

62 It was in the City of Sarajevo on the 28th June 1914 that a chain of events occurred that would result in WWI Within six weeks all five major powers in Europe including Great Britain were at war.

1914

On June the 28th Archduke Franz Ferndinand was attending a Military Review in Sarajevo. During the visit he and his wife were assassinated by Serbian, Gavrilo Princip a Nationlist who wanted the Austro-Hungarian Empire out of Bosnia.

Although this was the principal cause of WWI Due to mutual defence alliances meant if one Country was attacked, another would defend them. Prior to the commencement of hostilities, Russia was in alliance to Serbia, Germany with Austria-Hungary, France with Russia, whilst Great Britain was in alliance with France, Russia and Belgium.

All these alliances didn’t mean very much to the ordinary working man but Within a very short period thousands upon thousands of young men and women would be “called up” in other words to attend for a medical, (somehow I don’t think this would have been very strict in those days). selected to whatever service, issued with a rifle and uniform, basic training and then moved to the front line, to what in reality was “cannon fodder”

Many young men would lie about their real age to ensure they got enlisted. It was and adventure and more importantly they were fighting for King and country, little did they know of the brutality and cruelty of war……

The declaration of war was to have a devastating effect on the Herring Industry because obviously the export of salted herring to Europe and especially Russia suddenly more or less ceased to exist.

It is a bit ironic and in a way fortunate that the Admiralty urgently required as many Drifters and Trawlers that could be had to serve in the navy as, Minesweepers, Tenders, Patrol boats and Barrage Balloon vessels, in fact they were used in a multitude of services as required, too numerous to list here….In all 1,500 Drifters and 1,500 Trawlers were requisitioned.

63 So good were the fishing boats at their new job and the need was so great the Government commissioned the building of 535 new steel trawlers to three designs The “Strath” “Castle” and “Mersey”

Alexander Hall & Co, Aberdeen designed two Drifters, one with a wooden hull and one with a steel hull both 93feet in length. 225 of these were built at different shipyards all over the U.k. all of these were named after a weather element e.g. H.M.D. Lasher……….many boats of the Drifter and Trawler design were also built in Canada for the War effort…..as far as I know these boats were allocated a unique number e.g. H.M.D 234

All boats commissioned or hired were issued with an Admiralty pennant number with the prefix HMD (His Majesty’s Drifter) e.g. H.M.D 2193 and of course all these boats required crewing….who better than the fishermen who knew the waters all round the U.K. which was where the R.N.R. fishermen came to the fore.

As mentioned being in the R.N.R meant the fishermen from all over the United Kingdom were called to serve their country very quickly after the commencement of hostilities. Depending on position or job pre-war, men were allocated different ranks such as Captain, Skipper (actually an official rank in the navy) Petty Officer, Mates, Engineers, Deckhands and even Gunners etc etc……….

The fishermen’s herring nets were left on quaysides all over the country (although I’m inclined to believe the canny Scottish fishermen would have stored their herring nets in their lofts to be mended and made ready by their womanfolk for future use, after all nobody believed the war would last very long) these nets were to be replaced with a totally different kind of net, steel anti-submarine nets which were laid to block the many entrances to Firth’s and harbours. these boats were also ideally suited for sweeping the waters for mines, this was a very dangerous job and many boats were lost…

Most of these boats were fitted with either a three pounder or six pounder gun, usually mounted forward, many of these guns were quite old and not really effective but as history tells us many of these little boats did engage the enemy on countless occasions, usually ending worse of in any conflicts, many being sunk and crews killed.

64 Many Drifters were used a “Q” ships (armed decoys disguised as civilian fishing boats) which would lure and attack submarines. These submarines came to fear the Drifters who were very manoeuvrable and carried many deadly depth charges………….

It was common practice for German submarines to surface when a few civilian fishing boats were spotted, whereupon the crews were ordered to get into their small boat and the submarine would proceed to sink the boats by holing the boats below the waterline with their deck gun, there was no way a torpedo would be wasted on such small boats, the torpedo was saved for much larger prey………. However not all submarine Commanders were so merciful and humane, during WWI 394 British fishing boats were lost whilst on war service and 675 none combatant fishing boats were lost, 434 fishermen lost their lives……….

The main reason why so many civilian boats were lost was because although they were not combatant they served a vital purpous by supplying the nation with much need food, no longer was the import of vital food supplies by sea so readily available and the enemy knew this with the resultant attacks on fishing boats which they hoped would deplete food supplies and demoralise the population

I continue with records which I researched on my grandfather William Cow for the WWI years 1914 to 1918 His story is by no means unique but gives an insight into what the many hundreds of ordinary fishermen did for their country. Simple fishermen suddenly thrown into highly dangerous situations both in this country and abroad, brave men who are seldom mentioned but in my opinion, without their contribution the outcome of the war may have been very different…………….

During WW1 he served in the R.N.R with the rank of “Skipper” WSA906 Serving on several vessels during this period, Duties included : Coastal Patrols, Anti submarine steel net laying, Barrage balloon defence and Minesweeping around the coasts of Great Britain.

The first ship was the “Satellite” Auxiliary Patrol Base Ship based in the Tyne, Area VIII I am of the opinion that most Skippers would have

65 reported to this vessel for an brief induction and training before being allocated command of a vessel of their own.

He then served on the H.M.S “Stephen Furness” a Squadron supply ship of 1,712tons between Dec 1914 to Mar 1916 This vessel was involved in the main Allied landings around “Helles” and “Anzec Cove” during the Gallipoli Campaign, she was then converted and from Dec 1917 served as an “Armed Boarding Steamer” charged with examining neutral ships to enforce the naval blockade of Germany. n.b.The Stephen Furness was built by Irvine, s Shipbuilding & Drydock Co Ltd at West Hartlepool in 1910 as a British Passenger…

n.b.b. My grandfather was serving on another vessel when the following tragedy occurred………….

December 13th 1917 was to be a fateful day for the “Stephen Furness”

The ship left Lerwick at 14.00hrs on Tuesday the 11th December 1917 bound for Liverpool for repairs having came from Arctic Patrols, she was torpedoed on the starboard side between the bridge and funnel and sunk by the German submarine UB-64 commanded by Walter Gude 15 miles W x N from Contrary Head, Isle of Man.

Immediately she began to dip and before any lifeboats could be lowered she suddenly went down, with the loss of six Officers and ninety three crewmen.

Unfortunately for the Allies, UB-64 was quite a successful hunter, between 13th October 1917 and the 21st September 1918 she managed to sink 30 ships totalling 34,111 tons this included as mentioned previously seven fishing boats, in all probability sunk by the deck gun…. This submarine also severely damaged a further four ships totalling 48,497 tons which would have been out of commission for quite a while for extensive repairs………..

66 It is almost certain my grandfather was involved in the Gallipoli Campaign at the Dardanelles in the Turkish Peninsula, although little is known about this period. It is a fact that the “Stephen Furness” was there during April 1915 and just a few years after the war he built a house in Ugie Road, Peterhead and named it “Gallipoli Villa” why would he do that, possibly in remembrance of a disastrous campaign and the needless slaughter of young men from all over the Commonwealth including Australians and New Zealanders, the “Anzacs”

On further research I obtained my Grandfathers Naval records and list of various ships he served on during WWI He joined the Stephen Furness 28/2/1915 discharged 18/6.1915 to join another vessel. As stated the Stephen Furness was Dardanelles during April 1915 therefore this certainly clarifies he was at Gallipoli…

The “Gallipoli Campaign” was a complete failure from start to finish. In May 1915 Britain’s First Sea Lord Admiral John Fisher dramatically re-signed after the mishandling of the Campaign by the First Lord of the Admiralty, Winston Churchill, his political career much damaged by the debacle, the future Prime Minister, resigned his own position and accepted a commission with an Infantry Battalion in France………

His next boat was the “Island Prince” SN148 a South Shields built trawler of 205 tons, Admiralty No 62 mainly engaged in minesweeping duties in Area VIII of Tyne…..six pounder gun mounted forward……..

The Island Prince was built by J.T.Ethringham & Co of South Shields, Yard No 290 she was launched 2nd March 1911 and completed that same month…

205 grt 115.3 x 22.2 x 11.7ft Engine by: Shields Engineering &Drydock Co. Ltd T 3cyl (12, 20 & 34 x24”) 74nhp, 430hp (1 x screw, 10knots)

History :

31/03/1911 Prince Steam Fishing Co Ltd (Richard Irvin, Manager) North Shields Allocated Fishing No SN148

67 22/07/1915 W.Raynor & R. Boyle North Shields

08/1914 Requisitioned as a Minesweeper, Admiralty No 62 Based on the Tyne.

1919 Returned to owners.

01/09/1922 William Alexander, Leith, registered at Aberdeen Allocated Fishing No A930

17/11/1926 Mrs Florence W Catcheside, registered at North Shields allocated Fishing No SN53……

08/09/1927 Wrecked on Crab Hill Rocks, Cullercoats. during thick fog …………

The fourth and last boat he served on during WW1 as far is known was the “Inverugie” a steel fishing Drifter of 93tons, Fishing No PD511, Admiralty No 2193 hired as a Minesweeper with six pounder gun mounted forward. Serving first in Auxiliary Patrol area No XII based at Portsmouth, then trans- Ferred to Area II based in the Shetland islands, Thereafter to Area III based in the Orkney Islands where she spent the rest of the war….

I don’t know if it is only coincidence or if he managed to pull a few strings or possibly other reasons which we can only imagine, these fishermen experienced many terrible exploits which we can only imagine….. There is the possibility as well that he was given this vessel and area’s simply because he would have been very familiar with fishing in these areas pre-war. however it must have felt good to be Skipper of the boat that you fished with prior to the outbreak of WW1…if that was any consolation….

After four years of conflict WW1 finally ceased :

At the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month of 1918 the Great War ends At 5 a.m. that morning Germany bereft of manpower and supplies and faced with imminent invasion, signed an Armistice agreement with the Allies in a railway car outside Compiegne,France.

68

The First World War left nine million service personnel men dead and twenty-one million wounded , with Germany, Russia, Austria-Hungary, France and Great Britain each losing nearly a million or more lives. In addition, at least five million civilians died from disease, starvation and exposure………..

It was said at the time, this was the “War to end all Wars” such was the magnitude of devastation of buildings, land and tragically human beings… Never again would humanity allow such a thing to happen again???

Quote : “War to end all Wars”

(H.G.Wells)

Quote : “Man’s inhumanity to Man Makes countless thousands mourn”

( Robert Burns)

It would be easy to say that everything returned to normality after the “Great War” ended. But that was far from the truth…..

Unemployment was a major problem after the war, due to the large loss of life thousands of widows with young families to bring up also wounded servicemen who were now unable to work due to their extensive injuries or psychological disorders such as shell shock or insomnia. By June 1921 over two million people in Britain were unemployed. This particularly affected larger area’s of population, especially Cities of industry….

Although the “Herring Industry” was to pick up again it was never to reach the heights of pre-war years. With the ending of war all fishermen and boats which had been requisitioned into service were demobilised and returned home, this also left the Admiralty with a large surplus of Trawlers and Drifters which had been built during the war years.

69 It was decided that they would be put up for sale to fishermen at a reasonable price, with the help of banks and private investors many fishermen from ports all over the U.K. became owners of H.M.Drifters becoming peacetime fishing boats……

Fortunately most fishermen were employed for the time being and so it was that my Grandfather returned to Peterhead to continue with life as it had been previously fishing for the Herring etc with his brother in laws on the “Inverugie” it is highly probable that some of his brothers were part of the crew as well, after all every boat was a “family boat” that was how it was in those times, a real family concern……….

About a year later he decided to move on and became Skipper of the Steam Trawler “Adventure”

History of the “Adventure” :

Steel screw steam trawler length 110ft x 21ft 8in x 12ft 3in depth Gross tonnage: 184tons Launched : April 1906

Built by Hall Russell Shipyard in Aberdeen for H. Tweedle of Hartlepool And register as HL19

1911 Sold to Imperial Cold Storage &Supply Co Ltd of Aberdeen where the registration remained HL19.

1913 Sold to Richard Watson Mason & John Wright of Fleetwood where the registration number changed to FD154.

1914 Owned by Brooklyn Trawling Company Ltd Fleetwood then requisitioned by Royal Navy and converted to Minesweeper with six pounder gun mounted forward during the years 1915 to 1918 renamed “Adventure II” Admiralty No 2771

1919 Sold to J.R.L. Mitchell, Ellishill, Peterhead and registered PD239

70 1921 Sold to Imperial Cold Storage & Supply Co.Ltd of Aberdeen retaining Registration PD239

It seems the War wasn’t quite finished with the “Adventure”

On Friday 6th January 1922 between the hours of 9 a.m. and 10 am As the crew were having breakfast whilst of the coast somewhere between Buchaness and Cruden Bay the Adventure struck up a leftover WW1 contact mine which exploded amidships, causing the trawler to sink within six minutes, The crew of ten men all got of safely in the small boat and were picked up soon after by another trawler…..

The crew:

William Cow, 30 Gladstone Road, Peterhead : Skipper (my grandfather) David Buchan St Andrew Street, Peterhead : Mate George Fyvie, 20 Kirk Street, Peterhead : Chief Engineer James Borthwick Longate, Peterhed : 2nd Engineer Andrew McLean Roanheads, Peterhead : 2nd Fisherman William Strachan Buchanhaven, Peterhead : Deckhand Alexander Taylor Keith Inch, Peterhead : Deckhand George Cordiner Roanheads, Peterhead : Deckhand Albert Ewan 20 Skene Street, Peterhead : Deckhand Charles Ewan 20 Skene Street, Peterhead : Cook

It is ironic this boat went through the War as a Minesweeper unscathed only to be sunk by a German mine which had broken loose four years later…

Another remarkable event occurred many years later regarding the Adventure……….whilst “Buchan Divers” were searching for the German submarine UB1206…….

On the 24th August 2007 whilst searching for UB1206 we found a wreck near to fishermen’s marks for “the sub” and dived it the following day. It turned out to be a steam trawler, the ships bell was recovered and found to be engraved:

71 “1906, Hartlepool” confirming the wrecks identity as the Adventure……..

The Adventure lies in 71 mtrs at 57 24.097N 01 37.318W orientated 140/230degrees with the bow to the South – East She is upright and intact with the superstructure gone and obvious explosion damage to the starboard side forward of the wheelhouse………. n.b. My thanks to Buchan Divers for gifting myself the Bell…………….

Although Peterhead and most other fishing ports during this era fished for herring on what became known as the Herring Steam Drifter which derives its name from the drift net style of fishing there was actually a few Trawlers as well. During my research I found the following trawlers PD registered and skippered by family relations.

Norman PD502 built 1894 at Grimsby, Tonnage 119 tons lth 90ft, later sold to R.L.Mitchell and others of Peterhead, Skipper William Cowe. Net Laying vessel during WWI Admirality No 1314 (Net laying would have had nothing to do with fishing, probably net defences against submarines)

Inschkeith PD346 Built 1906 at Mackie & Thomson, Govan, Glasgow tonnage 174 tons Lth 112ft later sold to R.L.Mitchell & others of Peterhead, Skipper James Cow & David Cow. Minesweeper during WWI Admirality No 481.

Setter PD237 Built 1899 at Hall Russell, Aberdeen Tonnage 181 Tons lth 106.5ft Later owned by R.L.Mitchell & others Peterhead, Skipper Charles Cow. Fishery Patrol vessel during WWI Admirality No 729. Foundered of Fair Isle 1922.

After four years at war, the world economy had been totally exhausted. Great Britain whose economy relied on trading faced serious problems 40% of her Merchant Fleet been destroyed by German U-Boats during the war making it very difficult to export goods, it was a double edged sword because other countries imposed high tariffs on imports to protect their own industries which severely affected Britain’s economy... Old machines and outdated factories, unprofitable coal mines which all contributed to the

72 decline in employment and Britain’s involvement as a major player in world trade….

Fortunately because there was quite a stockpile of steel left from the war, ship building continued, fishing boats were in good demand because many of the boats which had served in the war, particularly wooden hulled boats which had served in more tropical climates returned rotted, some could be repaired but many were scrapped…steel boats were particularly favoured by fishermen and so with the additional new boats and ex Admiralty built boats fishing fleets grew considerably in all the fishing ports in the U.K.

Life continued in a fairly prosperous vane for most fishing communities for the next few years, the men and boats fishing the “smae lines” and “lang lines” during the winter months…

Usually the bigger drifters and trawlers went to the “lang lines” they would go as far North as the Faroe Banks north of the Shetland Islands These lines could be many miles long and have five thousand hooks, the type of fish caught were cod, halibut, ling and various flatfish. Most drifters would fish the “smae lines” in the inshore waters; these could be up to a mile long and contain around twelve hundred hooks.

Lines could be baited with shellfish, usually mussels which the womenfolk would collect from the shoreline in the early mornings which would then have to be shelled and attached to the hooks; most of the larger boats would carry a herring drift net which could be used to catch small herring to use as bait. All this work resulted in good quality fish which commanded good prices.

Also during the winter months the womenfolk mended the herring nets in preparation for the migration north to the start of the herring season in the Shetland Islands, progressing South following the herring shoals, landing at ports such as Wick, Fraserburgh, Peterhead and eventually Great Yarmouth.

Being a fisherman’s wife was certainly a hard task, nae only gathering bait and baiting lines in the early hours in a wither and mending nets but also giving birth tae large families, cooking and washing and if ye add tae that gan tae the gutting yards during the herring season, and ye can add knitting tae that list when they had ony spare time, every fisher wife was a grand

73 knitter learnt fae their mothers afore them, it makes ye wunner fae hid the easiest o it??? there is an auld saying which sums this up very well for these hardy women of past years which I would say originates from this era :

“A Woman’s work is niver dae,n”

During all this time of relative prosperity many fishermen were building new houses which benefited lots of business’s like builders, joiners, shops etc in not only Peterhead but in almost every fishing community, the good times…

My grandfather built a house in Ugie Street, Peterhead and named it “Gallipoli Villa” I don’t know exactly when it was built but I can confirm my father Peter Buchan Cowe was born there on the 11th Sept 1921 and also his two older brothers William and Charles (Cha) were married out of the house in Dec 1929 and Dec 1930……therefore I would estimate the house would have been built around 1919 – 1920

This is a good point to include part of my father’s memories of these years as he himself wrote it for me a little while before he passed.

Part 1

“It is the year 1921 and my Father, Mother and four brothers have moved into a new house my father has had built in Ugie Street. In the Autumn of that year. I was born in this house, My Father had named it “Gallipoli Villa”

It was quite a large house, downstairs there was a large front room, two bedrooms, a large kitchen, the washhouse and toilets were outside. Upstairs was laid out much the same, in addition there was a large backroom which was called “the loft” this was where the herring nets were

74 stored with plenty room for mending them. It was also a great play area for pals and me, outside the house was a large walled garden, all round the inner walls there were berry bushes which I used to pick for my mother who made jar upon jar of jam which was used in the house and also on our boat. At this time there was only about twelve houses in this area and all round about was fields, it was like being out in the country….

To me the lasting memory of the house, I don’t know why was the highly polished banister, it had a small curl at the bottom and at the top it went right along the landing, I used to slide down the banister, perhaps that is why I remember it. That memory will stay with me forever.

As related to me by my mother, I had all the troubles going when young, mumps, whooping cough, measles to name a few...

I can remember when I was about eight years old developing Pneumonia, I was so ill I was deranged and only one person could get near me, that was my Uncle’s wife, for the rest of my life I held her in high regard.

I grew up with no Grandparents they were deceased and when I was ill I think the Aunt who had looked after me and another Aunt I looked on as Grannies, These were the only people I visited except for one other Aunt, my father’s sister, she had a small general store not far from where we lived, the shop was in a small fishing part of the town (probably Buchanhaven)

I remember the highlight of my week, when my father was home at the weekend , He would put me on his shoulders on Sunday morning and walk down to the shop and I would get a big bag of a mixture of sweets and if I was careful it lasted about the week. Unfortunately my Aunt and family went abroad before I was much older. (possibly Canada)

I am getting on now and remember better, I am eleven years old , the next few years are very dramatic for me which I didn’t really understand at the time but do so more now….Firstly the big house is sold !!

75 We moved to a flat in the centre of town (Broad Street ?) where we lived for about a year. It was about this time my mother’s youngest brother whom I was called after became very ill and died, this was the first funeral I attended, it was also at this time my Uncle’s wife who had attended me when I was ill with Pneumonia, died as well.. I am now twelve years old and my two oldest brothers had got married from the big house before we moved... We are moving again, my father has bought a smaller house down in Roanheads, 7, Great Stuart Street…. He was actually born in 4 Great Stuart Street. It is a lot smaller, downstairs a front room come dining room come bedroom for Mother and Father and a kitchen and washhouse at the back, upstairs there is two bedrooms, the house is extended by building another room over the top of the kitchen, this is where the herring nets were stored and mended and I had my playroom back again……..

I am now thirteen years old and now understand better the reasons for moving to a smaller house, my father is having a new boat built in another town (Macduff) and he takes me to see it being built as often as work permits. It is truly great to know your father is having a new boat built. The changes in houses must have been a great sacrifice on my mother’s part but it was looking to the future of the family……….

n.b. I think my father got a little confused at this point, I don’t think the reason for moving house was because of getting a new boat built, rather like a lot more fishermen of the time, it was a case of “needs must” in other words the house may have been sold to clear debts or maybe even repossessed as the boats were...... it wasn’t unique, everybody was if you’ll excuse the pun...... in the same boat.....and the depression was looming….

I will continue his story a bit further on, including the “New Boat”.

76 Unfortunately like all good things, the good times were not to last, It all started in the late 1920s cumulating with the “Wall Street Crash” in the

U.S.A during October 1929…………..most Banks went bankrupt statewide, this had a dramatic effect worldwide, most economies including Great Britain also felt the backlash going bankrupt as well.

This was to effect everyone in the U.K…….a downturn in herring catches didn’t help the situation either………massive unemployment world wide, everywhere men were out of work, none more so than the fishing communities from every port in Great Britain

This resulted in the banks in this country cancelling loans to fishermen and the repossession of boats and gear…………all over the country hundreds of Drifters and Trawlers were tied up, idle, owned by the banks. Hundreds if not thousands of fishermen out of work, desperate times!!!

Fishing boats are usually owned on a “share” basis, the Skipper would have a major share, probably the Mate and also other crew members with smaller shares, even none fishermen would have an interest in fishing boats, possibly the nets for example but by far the biggest shareholder was the Banks and in some instances Businessmen.The Banks would also have lent the fishermen loans to buy into a boat….

Almost all Fishermen in Peterhead and all other Ports became unemployed and had to sign on at the Employment Exchange (Buroo) There was no work for anyone and the unemployed didn’t get money for nothing. In Peterhead the fishermen were put out to dig new roads within the town, these included: Landale Road, Prince Street, King Street, Queen Street and York Street, to my knowledge they were paid the pricely sum of approximately ten shillings (50 new pence) a day, not a lot, even in those days, to keep a house and feed a family……how things have changed???

77 My Grandfather was very reluctant to work as a “Navvie” on the roads stating he had went to sea all his life and wasn’t going to start using a pick and shovel now. I honestly don’t think this was detrimental to anyone else and he didn’t mean any offence. I never knew him but I have been reliably told by many people who did know him, he was a generous and fair man, totally family orientated.

He was fortunate in the miss-fortune of himself and other fishermen in finding employment sailing Trawlers and Drifters which had been re- possesed by the Banks and sold to new owners in South Africa. Thereby spending some of the Depression years (1929 – 1933??) delivering boats to Durbin…

After a boat was delivered the crew returned home to Scotland on a “Packet Steamer” this was a cargo ship which had accommodation for a few passengers. This was no mean feat considering the small size of the boats no modern navigational aids, probably only having a sextant and compass... I would think they would have filled the fish hold with coal because most of these boats were still steam powered, possibly restocking enroute… Going by some photographs saved from this time, the crew must have done a bit of sightseeing, this may have happened because they probably had to wait for an available Steamer to arrive in Durbin to take them home… My Grandfather also visited a Nurse Buchan who lived there, possibly a relation, this was related to me by my father many years later….

I’m fairly sure he would have been quite confident sailing these waters after all, the “Stephen Furness” was at the “Dardanelles” during 1915…

My Father’s story continued,

Part 2

During the last couple of years I have had pains in my legs and feet and suppose I have been complaining to my mother, as time goes on it is getting worse and more painful, when we play football I am now always in goal, in other games I just take a back seat am now fourteen and ask my mother if I can go and see a Doctor and get something done.

78 This is discussed at home and my father says “no cutting” of me and I will never want for anything, I was to stay at school and learn languages. n.b. That last bit about “no cutting” surprised me when I read it, especially when my grandfather was a go ahead person looking to the future, it is surprisingly to me, “narrow minded” and a bit auld fashioned attitude, sure he was doing well and the prospects looked good for his sons, as told by my father his oldest brother William was to take over his own boat as Skipper when they returned from the Yarmouth Fishing, little did he know what the near future held in store!!!!!

The new boat “Olive Branch” is now at sea and doing very well, it is now time for the fishing boats to go to Great Yarmouth for the herring season,

I am just on fifteen now and go down South on the boat, my Mother goes by train with all the other fisher folk we eventually arrive at Gt Yarmouth and my father gets me a job, I have to go onboard the boats and get their grocery orders, my cousin has a job with a butchers and he does the same, We work together as a pair and get on very well. It was very hard work for me, getting on and off the boats (my disablement is so much worse now) when I think back I often wonder if my father made the job for me and maybe even paid my wages, to this day, I don’t know. The fishing season is wearing on and its only one or two weeks before we will be heading back to Peterhead.

(At this time the most fateful day of my life occurs)

The boats are all coming into port, the weather is very very bad, there are gales and the rain is battering down, it is one of the worst storms ever seen at this port. I take a walk down to the mouth of the harbour looking for my father’s boat coming in. I think I got blown over a couple of times, still no sign of the boat, I walk back, my mother is also down at the harbour looking for the boat. I don’t know my mother is there but I suppose we wandered about the harbour for a long time. Later on my mother and I are taken home, I don’t remember who took me home. We are then told the “Olive Branch” is lost, turned over on a sandbank.

79 In one sweep of the sea I have lost my father and three brothers. My mother is very ill , she is in a coma for a very long time. All the family are taken home to Peterhead by rail, we come home in a private carriage by ourselves. Everybody is very kind and mother receives letters and messages of sympathy from friends and all over the world. I myself don’t remember much of the next few months but I do know I am very bad walking, I am a few months over fifteen and can only walk as far as the bottom of the street (about fifty yards)

I have made a decision at this time, I no longer have a father to look after me and mother is a bit better and doing things at home although she is often in a dazed state. I went to the old family doctor who referred me to the specialists and was told they could help me. A few days later I got a letter to go into hospital on the Monday, my mother is a little upset at the news I have given her but realizes it is for my good…………………………... to be continued.

My father got it a little bit wrong, the Olive Branch didn’t turn over on a sandbank but given the circumstances of that day it isn’t surprising……

To give a fairly accurate account of what happened that day, I have re- written most of the report in the “Evening Express” on Thursday the 19th November 1936

“The Worst Disaster That Peterhead Has Experienced For Forty Years” “Loss of Drifter Olive Branch”

How Crew Perished In Wild Seas, Lifeboat Searches In Vain

“Only Gulls Hovering Over Herring Nets”

80 The worst disaster that has overtaken Peterhead for nearly forty years is the sole topic of conversation there today. The loss of the local Drifter Olive Branch with her crew of nine in terrific seas of Yarmouth yesterday and more particularly that six of the men were related has drawn the people of the district into a common bond of sympathy. This forenoon Provost Dickie visited the homes of the victims and expressed to the relatives the sympathy of the Town. The most pathetic feature is that three sons of the Skipper were in the crew.

William Cow (55) Skipper 7, Great Stuart Street, who is survived by his widow and two sons, one of whom, Charles left the Olive Branch only this year, to be engineer in the Peterhead Drifter “Daffodil”

William Cowe Jun (30) St Peter Street, eldest son of the Skipper who leaves a widow, a son aged 7 years and a daughter aged 5 years. n.b. another daughter Mary was born three months later.

George Buchan Cowe (24) 7,Great Stuart Street, single, another son of the Skipper.

David Cowe (21) 7,Great Stuart Street, single, another son of the Skipper.

Andrew Cow (57) The Mate, 25, Merchant Street a cousin of the Skipper, who is survived by widow, four daughters and a son.

Andrew Cow Jun (19) 25, Merchant Street (his son)

John Beveridge (30) 12, Castle Street, who leaves a widow and four children.

Andrew Stephen (57) 11c Longate, who is survived by a widow.

William Collin, Eyemouth

The sea has produced few more poignant stories in recent years; the Olive Branch was actually within hailing distance of another Peterhead Drifter, “Young Dawn” when she capsized.

Vain Search

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News of the disaster was brought to Yarmouth by the Young Dawn. Gorleston lifeboatmen who earlier in the day had gone to the rescue of another vessel and had their own boat put out of action, Immediately went to sea again, this time in the Cromar Lifeboat. For hours they searched for some trace of the missing men, but all their efforts were unsuccessful, All they could see was a flock of gulls hovering over what appeared to be herring nets.

Two Terrific seas

Peter Buchan, the cook of the Young Dawn, gave a graphic description of the few minutes which brought disaster to the vessel and her crew. “We had passed the Olive Branch at 1.30 P.M. and hailed her,” he said, “Then she was struck by two terrific seas, before she could recover from the first, the second had turned her over. There was no chance to save the crew.” Another member of the Young Dawn’s crew said “the propeller could be seen turning while the Olive Branch was on her back”

One of the most touching features is that the crew of the Olive Branch who were among the first to leave Peterhead for the East Anglia Fishing, were actually believed to have left for home again when the catastrophe occurred. It is believed the vessel may have left for home but the crew had decided to have a last shot.

Peterhead’s Sympathy

“I am just leaving to express to the relatives the deep sympathy of the whole town” said Provost Dickie to an Evening Express representive this morning. “It has been a terrible blow, We feel deeply for the Widows and families who have thus been so suddenly bereft of husbands and fathers,”

Fishing Tradition

The old fishing tradition of several members of the same family being in the crew of a boat together has once again taken its toll again.

82 It is a severe blow too, to this new type of vessel. The Olive Branch was built only last year and as she was a Diesel engine Motor Drifter with running costs less than half those of an ordinary Drifter, It was felt she represented the boat of the future, the boat that was to solve one of the problems of the industry. It is however, the first accident that has befallen this type of vessel, which was first introduced about four years ago.

Tragic Widow

Relatives of the lost men were overcome, some of them prostrated, when the news was taken to them. Mrs Cowe, the Skippers wife, who went to reside in Yarmouth during the East Anglia Season, was completely overcome. She has lost her husband and three sons.

Mrs Andrew Cow collapsed when told of the loss of her husband and son and had to receive medical attention. She heard the news in particularly sad circumstances. The seven year old son of William Cowe jun, visited her house to say that the Olive Branch had left for home, The stormy weather made her doubt the accuracy of the information and she set of to visit the offices of the Caledonian Fish Selling Company to ascertain the exact position. As she had almost reached the office she was met by her Minister, He was on his way to break the news to her...

Unlucky Ship

Only last week her son had remarked in a letter, “that it seemed the crew had been caught in every storm that had arisen during the season”

The next day the battered hull of the Olive Branch was washed up at Kessgland near Lowestoft, everything on deck including the wheelhouse had been swept away, among the things retrieved by searchers was a number of unbroken eggs.

83 n.b. I can confirm there was a wristwatch and an accordion also found belonging to sons of the Skipper...

No bodies were recovered except for one, Andrew Cow (sen) cousin of the Skipper. He was found on the beach, unfortunately he had died from exposure. It was well known he was a strong swimmer and he must have been the only one able to get of the vessel.

It is fitting I should I should include the funeral of Andrew Cow as reported in the “People’s Journal” Sat 28th November 1936 as will be realised this was in reality an opportunity for the relations, friends and people of Peterhead to show their respect for all nine lost souls……

Before the mourners assembled at the stricken home at 25 Merchant Street where Mrs Cow bereft of her breadwinner and her son Andrew (Jun) was alone with her intimate relatives in a personal sorrow, the deep feeling of loss among the general public was apparent. Shops were closed and from the top of Arbuthnott House, (Peterheads Civic Headquarters) a flag flew at half mast. Two dull strokes sounded from the clock in Broad Street. Quiet was absolute, slowly the house door opened, from within the pall-bearers carried the coffin to place it in the hearse drawn by two sable horses for

“The Last Voyage”

Scarce ever had Peterhead witnessed such a demonstration of communal sympathy. In the column hundreds of mourners took their place, Ecclesiastical life of all denominations being represented as well as civic, business and showing interests. Signs of the great grief that has left an indelible mark on sturdy fishing people resigned to the risks of the deep were everywhere evident in the thronged streets through which the long cortege moved.

84 An eerie silence held the air as the hushed multitude bowed in silent reverence, Veteran fishermen uncovered their heads and as they stood in homage to a departed brother their ruddy , weather beaten countenances showed many a tear ; children, their accustomed happy chatter strangely subdued by the sad procession clung in pathetic silence to their mothers ; Womenfolk, acquainted with the cruelty of the sea, wept, and some sought the comfort of prayer………

Siren’s Lament for Sailor

“Home from the Sea”

Mist rolling in from the sea, which had claimed nine brave sons, shrouded Peterhead in a grey pall on Monday, when amid the Entire community’s manifestation’s of sorrow, the body of Mr Andrew Cow (sen), a victim of the Olive Branch Drifter disaster at Yarmouth, was laid to rest in the cemetery of his native town. As the coffin was lowered into its resting place the tense atmosphere was broken by a singularly touching episode. Heads were bowed and not a sound was heard until from somewhere out at sea came the low drone of a ship’s siren, fitting lament for a sailor “home from the sea”

The Pall-Bearers at the funeral were:

Andrew Cow Aberdeen Joseph Buchan Peterhead (Son in Law) Alexander Reid Peterhead (Son in Law) John Cow Peterhead (Brother) David Cow Peterhead (Brother) Philip Cow Peterhead (Brother) Robertson Buchan Peterhead (Brother in Law)

85 Alexander Gowans St Monance (Brother in Law) William Terfet St Monance (Brother in Law) Andrew Bruce Peterhead (Nephew)

Some sad stories of the people affected, as told, I believe by the Mission Mannie :

In a house at which I called a young girl in her teens lay prostrate nursing her great sorrow. She was Miss Barbara Strachan, 5 James Street, sweetheart of young David Cowe, the Skipper, s son. “Bunty and David went together for two years steady,”said Mrs Strachan, her mother. “She is heartbroken now, David was such a nice quiet boy,” “Bunty was to have been bridesmaid at her sister’s wedding when the boats came home from Yarmouth, and we were just chaffing her that it might be her turn next year. Now David is gone”

Mrs J.Baird, Jamaica Street, sister in law of the Kirlcaldy victim, John Beveridge, told me that her sister had been married to him for nine years and there were four children. “My sister is in Yarmouth just now,” said Mrs Baird, “and my husband, who only came home from a holiday there two days ago, saw all the crew at the weekend and found them delighted with the success of the fishing,”

Ironically: Prior to the accident, on being asked how this new type of boat was performing………..

A very successful Herring fisherman, William Cow praised the sea keeping qualities of his boat the Olive Branch PD77 complaining only that she was too small for the large amount of herring they caught.

Also

Relatives of Skipper Cow told me that he had had an adventurous career. During the war at Scapa Flow the ship which he was in command of which was a Drifter had been blown up by a mine, he was rescued however...

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The last word should be left with Mrs Stephen:

Yet when I visited Mrs Andrew Stephen at 11c Longate, I found her, a middle aged, grey haired woman, whose husband was cook of the Olive Branch, strangely composed as though hardly aware of the tragedy that had befallen her, “Aye” she said to me, “I telt Willie Cow before he geed he had too many o his ain anboard, I didnae like it, I telt him there wis ower mony o the same name tae be lucky,” She was thus expressing a foreboding of ill which she declared she had experienced when her husband decided to go to the East Anglian fishing on the doomed ship. “My man hidnae been tae the sea since the war,” She went on “He was in the Navy then, and went thru the Dardanelles without a scratch. Then he followed his trade as a cooper but was knocked idle these last eight years and decided this year to take a berth for the Yarmouth fishing, but I wisnae happy about it. “The Skipper and my man were great friends” she continued “and that is why my man went on his boat, but I wisnae keen on, t” she repeated again...

One can only imagine the heartbreak, unless experienced personally, but in reality, not even imagination can begin to make anyone feel the loss of loved ones in such tragic circumstances.

The following few lines sums this up very well:

“Aye Folk are Kindly”

Aye folk are kindly in their way Aye ready with pity and to pray But prayin winnae bring my man back Nor mend my broken heart There’s nae mair hope left in my thoughts The Picket men are druned an lost !!

87 Uknown

I hope the reader (if there any of this story) were not too depressed with the previous few pages, it was not meant to convey that, rather, as far as I’m concerned, it should read as a tribute as well as an understanding of tragedy which sadly occurs within fishing communities….

“Life Without Waves”

All I want in life is a pleasant sail, But the storm is never far away, She can blow, with nere a warning, Her wrath, an endless, unforgiving hell.

But like the endless tides of life, The storm quietly and uneasily, abates, Life returns to a state of tranquillity, To sail onward, without the strife.

But still a quiet silence prevails, The voyage continues with nere a word, Life is too short to live in this hell! Forgiveness is free, to move onward, Afterall, Life should be a pleasant sail…

David M Cowe (Author)

Lastly a poem written by myself on the 18th Nov 1986 fifty years after the above tragedy not fantastic poetry but I felt I had to do something on this day in remembrance…..DMC

88 “Olive Branch PD 77”

So anxious to be off Great activity taking place Ready and willing to try This new addition to the fleet.

Oatcakes and things were baked All gear stowed with grace Hopes were high for this New and untried quest.

Among the first to leave Amid the farewells and tears Carrying the hopes And expectations of the future.

Although the journey was long And dangerous, there were no fears Only the prospects of Good fishing to secure.

After many days they arrived At this famous East Anglican town To be greeted by friends and wives As they tied up for the night.

Who had arrive by the much quicker And safer but smokey train Tonight before the hardships to be endured Just a little music and delight.

Next morning by the first ray of light They sailed for the fishing grounds While wives and girlfriends Headed for the gutting yards.

Anxiously, awaiting their return

89 With many crans in the hold Lonely hearts were thinking Of stormy seasan winds blowing hard.

Although the weather was often foul Many,s the trip that were made In search of the oceans Elusive silver hoard.

Wives and children to feed Many bills to be paid So bravely and gracefully The hardships were endured.

Herring shoals in short supply And the season drawing to a close Skipper and crew of one mind The long and ardious trip home.

It was decided on a final haul It was all a unanimous choice Ever hopefull of a big shot Before the journey home to resume.

Although the weather was bad The herring were in good supply Nets hauled and hold quite full They headed for the river haven.

The wind suddenly grew so severe As the little boat ploughed her way to safety With little warning a mighty wave struck And before she could right herself.

A second one, mighter than the first Turned her over,screw and keel uppermost Who would tell the mothers And children that are left

Those they loved the most

90 And everything they lived for All! Are lost !!!

David M Cowe (Author) 18th Nove 1986

I don’t know if anyone reading this story so far has noticed two separate events in time, giving an example of history repeating itself. :

Unnamed boat new vessel Unnamed boat Swamped by heavy seas Unnamed boat Lost Nov 1876 Unnamed boat William Cow age 60 probably Skipper (Oldest) Unnamed boat all the crew related Unnamed boat only one body recovered, Andrew Cow

Olive Branch New Vessel Olive Branch Swamped by heavy seas Olive Branch Lost Nov 1936 Olive Branch William Cow, Skipper Olive Branch Most of the crew related Olive Branch Only one body recovered, Andrew Cow

It is a sad that one family could be struck with disaster twice within living memory of that time but in reality, not an uncommon event, many Fisher Families suffered similar tragedy all round our coasts. Such was the price.

Andrew Cow (Mate of Olive Branch) was married to Jean Buchan who had the “Tee” name of “Tay Briggie” because she was born on the 28th Dec 1879 The same day the Tay Rail Bridge collapsed.

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The first Tay Rail Bridge was completed in February 1878 at the time, the longest in the world at nearly 2 miles in length.

On the night of 28th Dec 1879 the wind was blowing at gale force 10/11 at right angles to the bridge, At approximately 19.15 on that stormy night the central spans collapsed into the Firth of Tay, unfortunately at the same time a train pulling six carriages was on the bridge and was swept into the Tay, seventy five people were killed.

n.b. for those with an Geneological interest :

Jean Buchan (Tay Briggie Father : William (Wiggie) Buchan Mother: Margaret McPhee Buchan (Diggles)

William (Wiggie) Buchan Father : Robertson Buchan Mother: Margaret Strachan

Robertson Buchan Father : James Buchan Mother: Marjorie (Pisey) Cow

Margaret McPhee Buchan Father : John Buchan (Diggles) Mother: Margaret Ritchie

John Buchan (Diggles) Father : Peter Buchan Mother: Barbara Buchan

Robert Foreman (Rob) who was a good friend of my grandfather had started the Caley Fish Selling Company and had interests in quite a few Steam Drifters which were on a share basis and Skippered by others, it was evident at this time that the Drifters were becoming quite expensive to operate. Therefore when the new Diesel Engined boats first started to appear he was

92 quick to grasp the opportunity with the building of the first of this kind of vessel in Peterhead. The first to be built to my knowledge were the “Golden Lily” “Venture” “True Vine” “Caledonia” and the “Olive Branch” These boats could be operated at less than half the costs of the Steam Drifter and at the time could be built a bit smaller because they had just as much hold space as the Drifter because they had no large boiler taking up space. n.b. The “Olive Branch” was originally to be called the “Silver Lining” but my Grandmother suggested the latter to which my Grandfather agreed..

These boats lived up to the expectations and were doing very well, that is until the tragedy at Yarmouth in 1936………this was to have a catastrophic effect with the fishermen of Peterhead, nobody trusted or wanted them with the result Peterhead men stuck to the Steam Drifter whilst ports like the Broch (Fraserburgh) carried on with the new style boat, infact Fraserburgh was to go ahead of Peterhead in landings for the next few years.

It would be nearly ten years before the fishermen of Peterhead regained faith in the Diesel Motor Boat..

Sadly the “Caledonia” Skippered by William Thain who was a very good friend of my father,s oldest brother William was also lost with all hands some years later………..

There is one more tale which should be told in the loss of the Olive Branch, it is actually two stories which I was told of by word of mouth many years ago. It is up to the reader to judge for themselves of the validity of this, I don’t wholly discount it. Strange things do happen…

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“Ghostly Encounters”

The first occurred in a house in Peterhead whilst a mother and daughter were sitting in their living room when suddenly an apparition of one of my father’s brothers suddenly appeared to them and then gradually faded away. The daughter was engaged to my father’s brother. Next day they were informed of the disaster and it was later established this appearance was at exactly the same time the boat was lost. Could love be so powerful that the spirit of a dieing man could appear to say farewell to his beloved…

I leave it to the reader to decide.

Many years ago I drove a taxi for a few years as a living, One day I picked up Davy Buchan (Young Nuttie Davit) I went to the Buchanhaven School with him and we both lived just a few doors from one another. He was a fisherman at this time and had just returned from one of the last herring seasons down at Great Yarmouth. As soon as he got in the car he asked me what was the name of my grandfathers boat, to which I replied the “Olive Branch” to which he replied: “I thought it was but wasn’t quite sure, I must tell you this story I heard down at Yarmouth: We had landed our catch of herring and had went up the road to have a pint in the nearest pub, whilst we were sitting having our drink I couldn’t help but overhear the conversation at the next table, It was the crew of an English boat and one of them was relating of how they had narrowly avoided disaster with their boat. They were some way of the entrance to the Yarmouth river entrance and quite lost in a thick enveloping fog when suddenly this other fishing boat appeared lights shinning in the dense fog heading as if to ram them, they had to adjust their direction to avoid a collision very quickly, on doing this they then found their position and were able to proceed to harbour safely, when they looked back there was nothing!

94

The same person relating this story also mentioned his Skipper was going to report this to the Port Authorities but was told by another man, “Don’t bother, that’s a thing that’s happened more than once, They say its the “Ghost of the Olive Branch” which often appears when a boat is in danger and somehow guides them to safety.

It was an overheard conversation by total strangers to Davy Buchan, who thought he had heard of the boats name but couldn’t confirm it until he returned to Peterhead and related the story to me. Again I leave it to the reader to make up their own mind?

95

My Father,s story continued,

Part 3

I have made a decision at this time, I no longer have a father to look after me and mother is a bit better and doing things at home although she is often in a dazed state. I went to the old family doctor who referred me to the specialists and was told they could help me. A few days later I got a letter to go into hospital on the Monday, my mother is a little upset at the news I have given her but realizes it is for my good…………………………... to be continued.

I go into a strange environment but I soon get used to it, for nearly two weeks, it is all x-rays and tests, so I help out in the ward, giving out water, cutlery and the teas and so on. The big day arrives and I go to the theatre and the surgeon begins the job of fixing me up. The type of work done on me has to be done quickly so I get three big operations within twenty one days. When it is over both legs and feet are in plaster and I just have to lie back and get attention for quite a long time. My mother visits me every day for all this time, I think, perhaps this has helped my mother giving her other things to think about and do.,

My Mother is a lot better now and has more life and is looking more to the future. I have got on walking plasters now and have learned to walk again in the ward, and then I come home, I will be in plaster for a few months yet but I can get about the house and I can walk down to the end of the street, at this time a wheelchair turns upI don,t know from where or who got it for me. My friends take me out in the chair, we go everywhere, I would say I am out every day and night, we sure had great times and I have a lot to be thankfull for especially the boys and girls who ran me about also the sugeons and nurses.

96

I suppose a year has gane by and the plasters are of and I,m getting on fine. I get a job in a Ship,s Chandlers shop as a storeman and I also keep tally of small boats landings in the market, after a few months a friend of mine arranges a job working in the Post Office. I,m now working 9 till 5 in the Ships Chandlers and from 10 pm to 4 am nightly at the Post Office. I now think I will pay back my mother a little of what she has spent on me.

I have done this for four days and nights, on the Thursday I went to the Pictures at six o,clock, at about eight o,clock I am home and in a great deal of pain, next morning the Doctor comes, he thinks I have appendicitis, he came back in the afternoon but my pain has completely gone….. n.b. Strangely, exactly the same thing happened to myself around the age of 22 years, I was actually in the operating theatre when all the pain completely disappeared, so much so that I called one of the nurses to stop any further proceedings….I don,t know what happened after that because I blacked out and the next I remember was awakening in a bed…. In actual fact when the pain completely goes, that is the moment the appendix bursts and then it gets very serious because of poisons spreading throughout your system….DMC

The next day I am back in hospital, the doctors are undecided but next day they operated and removed my appendix.

I was very ill and in a coma for 7 days, slowly I got better, I had three draining tubes in my stomach. A little over three weeks I came home again, the District Nurse comes in every two days to clean and drain the tubes, this goes on for a month after month but eventually I am well again but unemployed..

97

I am now just eighteen years of age and the first War scares takes place. I was called up right away but owing to my disablement I am made grade 4 so I don,t get into the forces. My Uncle,s boat the “George G Baird” is called and the crew as civilians so I got a job as cook. We are stationed at Orkney looking after and tending Naval Ships, after about a year and a half the boat and crew are taken into the Navy proper, and so I come home again, being unfit and unemployed… I am now attending Junior Instruction Centre. The head Teacher there is very good to me, I had the same teacher when I went to day school. I am quite good at Technical drawing so this same teacher arranges for me to go to Glasgow to train as a draughtsman……….

This is as far as my father got with his writing, he died on the 16th Oct 1997 after long time of illnesse,s.

My Mother continues his story and as above I continue in her words, I,m sure there was more to tell but my mother does her best to complete it. Once I have completed my father,s story it is well worth continuing with my mother,s own story, both narrations will give a very good insight into what ordinary people did and went though during WWII

Continued : As near as I can remember because I wasn,t there during these times, I was the unknown future part, but will relate what I was told.

Peter finally finished his training at Glasgow and when he was interviewed by those who in a way had his working life in their hands, one man asked if he was right or left handed (Peter was left handed) he failed him even after passing all his training and exams.

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Why couldn,t that question have been asked at the beginning and avoided disappointment to a young man doing his best to overcome disabilities…..years after they made tools for left handed people…

This has always puzzled me because my father must have learned with much difficulty to actually use right handed equipment so must have been competent even being left handed, I can only put it down to narrow mindness on the part of one individual, such were the times…DMC

Peter came back to Peterhead , getting a job wasn,t easy so he got a job on his Uncle,s boat the “George Baird” which was sent to Scapa Flow at Orkney a year or so before the outbreak of WWII it was called the “Cold War” a means of scaring folk. Peter was cook onboard and was managing very well and having relations in Kirkwall he was more or less at home, but then war did break out and most fishing boats were commandeered as Minesweepers etc. Peter didn,t pass his medical because of his disability, Why ?? If he could cook for a crew in civilian life, he could just as easily cooked for a crew during hostilities (just one of these things that don,t make sense) anyway Peter comes home again, in the course, Peterhead was getting badly bombed by German planes.

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1939

Meantime Peter must have been seeing about Civil job with the Air Ministry and to my knowledge he got the job and was stationed at Donibristle near the great Naval Base (now no longer) there Peter was a Precision Engineer aircraft fitter and got very well with his job, he was in charge of a section of about thirty men and women, not bad for a chap whom some thought his left hand couldn,t do what other,s right could. As they always say thanks to “The Battle of Britain” Pilots, who kept the Germans from out land but they forgot the men on the ground, engineers, mechanics and ground staff, all pitched in, the minute planes came in tattered, torn and bloodshod almost unflyable again were patched up d sent up again without any thanks to the few on the ground who worked days and nights continually as required, many of the planes showed the dire straits they came through and many unpleasant sights were seen as shattered planes came back nearly in pieces to be patched up and back in the air as soon as possible To fight the German planes as they came over Britain wave after wave. . I think those men who kept our planes going also deserved medals too, without sleep and time off they kept those planes in the air.

Lord Thorneycroft was Peter’s boss; his was the big engineering firm before the war and was on war work then Civilian and Fleet Air Arm.

Now at Peterhead, bombing was getting worse, Peter’s mother’s house was blasted and all windows blown out and doors blown off and she herself blown out of bed, so he decided he would look for a house for him and her away from Peterhead. He found one in Dunfermline belonging to the Salvation Army, so he moved his mother down to Dunfermline where she looked after the hall for them as she was a Salvationist herself. Peter works on at his work in aircraft for the Fleet Air Arm.

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At this time I did not know Peter but had heard of their great tragedy when his fathers boat was lost at Yarmouth 1936 three years before the Second world war broke out, can you imagine the great shock to that young boy, but he buckled to and looked after his mum in all ways, as she was a very ill woman for a year at least.

War finally finishes, I was also demobbed, I was in the ATS att, d to RAPC Leeds, (Soldiers Record Offices) (Royal Army Pay Corps... I’m home doing mundane jobs in shops, I was in a licensed grocers but it was hard work to settle down after the upheaval of the war years. I was visiting a girlfriend one night and as I was walking home a voice spoke in the darkness, “Do you want a chip?” Well it was very dark then and I couldn’t see properly. I said “No thank you” but we got talking and he walked me home to my door after an invitation to meet the following night to go see a film.

I always remember, it was a film named “Dragonwyck” but ask Peter and he couldn’t tell you, That was our first meeting and it survived for over fifty years……….

During her lifetime my Mother was a prolific writer,short stories, poems etc she actually had pen pals, I believe as much as ten at one time which developed into friendships over a lifetime, I only found out about this when she was in her eighties and the last pen pal had died, The following story is edited to a degree because some of the content is personal, nethertheless a very good insight to past era’s and the WWII years, it is well worth recording here for future generations to know of the sacrifices, the losses endured by so many in the cause of “Freedom” DMC

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My Mothers Story:

I Mary.S.Cowe am writing this in the year of our Lord 1985, even if it is nearing its demise and will pass into the mists of time. I will start at the beginning as I know it, I am the eldest daughter of William Eddie Thaw and Maggie Spence, and I first saw the light of day on the 26th April 1918 My birthplace was at the “Old Mill House” standing on the banks of the River Ugie at Strichen. So I’m a “Mormond Sod” as they say up there. I was born in my grandmother’s house due to my father being away at War in 1918 He was in the “Royal Field Artillery” My first recollection as I grew older, was running water and the wind swishing through the trees…

As far as I can ascertain my Grandparents Spence came from the Nairn area and came to Stricken and settled working the Mill and living in the Mill house. They had fourteen of a family, eleven daughters and three sons, unfortunately my Grandfather Spence died of Meningitis at the fairly young age of 56 years……..so my Gran with still four daughters to bring up. Went back to the Mill to work as did some of the older daughters…Willie my Grandmothers brother was killed during WWI a young man and unmarried.

My Father William Eddie Thow came from Fishie (Fetterangus) and was serving his time as a baker in Strichen, as my Grandmother had a big family she needed lots of loaves daily so that’s how my how my Mum and Dad met. They were married and live in a house in Water Street, Strichen where they eventually had two sons, Bill (William) and Dod (George). The years go on and the boys are nine and seven years old when Dad moves to Cruden Bay and takes the foreman’s job in a bakery owned by a Mr Colvin until he went to War and on the 26th April I was born, I had a double Christening as my cousin Elizabeth (my mothers, brothers daughter was christened at the same time by a kindly Vicar by the name of Rev Goodwillie, I think he was kept

102 busy by all accounts, what with Grandma’s big family and marriages, births etc.

Father is home from the War and has moved to another job in Peterhead, and once again we move to 25, King Street, My father is now Foreman baker with Mrs Third at 12 Kirk Street, I will always remember his wedding cakes, works of art….

I went to St Peter’s Episcopal school in Hanover Street (no longer there) but I still remember it as it was in my mind’s eye when I pass that way, I can see the children out for playtime and the shouts of glee and happiness in simple games, there were lots of families went to that school and we had lovely teachers, all ladies even our Headmistress Miss Leslie was a real lady, I always remember her, she came to see me whilst I was in hospital with Scarlet Fever and also a Mastoid operation. I also remember when it was “Empire Day” and we all sang “All People That on Earth do Dwell” she literally flung herself into the singing and conducting, Lovely Lady and well worthy of the memory…. So My school days go on, we had lovely hot summers then and had such good fun when the tar melted on the roads and we ran about bursting the bubbles, but oh ! the howls when we had to be cleaned with butter to take the tar of our skin and clothes and the fun following the water cart that sprayed water on the roads to cool the tar and us getting soaking wet.

Those summers were fun, just simple fun, children needed no entertainment then and could play at any amount of different games, the children of today miss out on simple fun and the use of imagination..

Something strange is happening in our house and everyone is in a bit of a flutter there is a lady in white and a long veil on her head, what can she want? Eventually someone, I don’t remember who tells me I have a new baby sister but I do remember this nurse saying, that I had to be a good girl or else my baby sister would go back (oh! the innocence of childhood) childlike I believed her but my baby sister was still there when I got home

103 from school. My sister is called Elsie after my Dad’s mum, I am now 6 years old.

I am now nearly seven years old and I start having trouble with my ears so many times I’m having earache and then I’m desperately ill with Scarlet Fever I am wrapped up in a blanket and taken by ambulance (which at that time was a horse and cart) to the Isolation Hospital (now Ugie Hospital) I am isolated in the Scarlet fever ward and then the Doctor diagnosed a Mastoid and I urgently needed an operation, I couldn’t be moved to Aberdeen because I had the fever too, My Father got a Professor through from Aberdeen to perform the operation to save my life, My father paid for this Professor himself . I spend 15 weeks in hospital recovering, in the summer weather I had to sit with the back of my ear towards the sun to heal it and during nice days we were taken down to Buchanhaven beach by the Matron, she was a lovely kind lady, so very kind to all us young children.

But not so one particular young nurse who did a very bad thing, I was playing with a doll and doll’s clothes to make (or try) and I stuck the needle into the bedclothes whilst I did something else and these two nurses came in, one sat down on my bed and I never saw anyone jump so quickly (she had sat on the needle) but and a big but, she smacked me around the head where I had my operation, of course I was in tears, no nurse should hit a patient and when my mother came to visit me she knew something was wrong so she went to see the Matron and that nurse was dismissed immediately, mind you I didn’t know anyone would sit on my bed (in those days it wasn’t allowed) I can still remember how quickly that nurse jumped up and I can well imagine how she felt but not to hit a patient where they had been operated on, absolutely not ! Well life goes on and I recover but from then to this day I have had no sense of smell, over the years I’ve had a couple of near things not being able to smell gas etc but I’m still here at 82 years..

104 n.b. I remember well as a young boy going into our house down in Gt Stuart St and finding my mother and brother Neil sleeping, or so I thought, I couldn’t wake them up so I ran next door to No 6 where Peggy Strachan (cousin of my father) lived to get her to come into the house and waken them, as you probably guessed they were unconscious due to the gas ring on the cooker blowing out and my mother not being able to smell anything. n.b.b. I think if I hadn’t turned up when I did this story would probably end here but I did so let my mother continue her story………

My brothers Bill and Dod are both left school after being message boys they both serve their time as bakers, also with Mrs Third’s, whose business is now thriving turning out good bakery goods and my dad creating lovely wedding cakes, works of art such as one doesn’t see nowadays.

I’m in my teens and go out to Invernettie to help in the house as my grandmother is getting a lot older and is bothered with very high blood pressure, I learned a lot from my Grannie, cooking, baking etc I also help in the shop which is part of the house and my Aunts run, during the afternoons and or busy times, all for the 17/6 a week (about 82p now) serving, weighing and making up practically everything, nothing was prepacked in those days, sugar,tea,cereals, oatmeal all had to be weighed, margarine, butter and cheese had to be cut, big jars with sweets all had to be weighed. Biscuits were loose not in packets like today, syrup was run of from a big barrel, people came with their empty jars to fill, big cheeses had to be cut also there was a drink side (It was a licensed grocers) whisky in bottles, whisky loose and all other different kinds of drink, there was also the additional work of making up all the customers orders, a far cry from the modern Supermarkets of today where almost everything is pre-packed………….

The War clouds are gathering fast as Germany’s Adolph Hitler is marching into and taking over one country after another, and so it goes on until one Sunday (I remember it well) 3rd September 1939 11 a.m. Mr Chamberlain announced we were at war with Germany and so began 6 years of war, rationing of practically everything, coupons for clothing etc

105 Everything was in short supply and it was a real good treat to get anything out of the ordinary, a banana was never seen, many children didn’t know what it was even years after the war...

For a year or two I was doing my bit at home helping in mobile vans going round the various R.A.F. camps with my Aunt who owned the shop, she also drove an ambulance, I think she should have got some recognition as she was out when the bombs were falling, she was a very brave woman. I’ve seen us all under the stairs in the middle of the house whilst the bombs were falling and away she would going her car and tin hat etc...

The town of Peterhead was bombed pretty regularly, ships sunk, conveys attacked cutting of our food lines from the States etc, mines coming ashore and blowing up regardless, The Academy was bombed twice, our house was in line with it, My mother and I were standing in our lobby in the middle of the house as this was deemed the safest area without windows, we could hear the whistle of this bomb, and you hold your breath!!! it missed us but got the Academy because Jerry thought it was army barracks with all the windows shinning in the moonlight.

My brothers Bill and Dod are exempted because they are bakers and were needed at their jobs; Dod was moved to Maud, Aberdeenshire to a bakery there which supplied an Italian Prisoner of War Camp which was nearby. Dod and family are there for a few years of the war, their daughter Mary was born 1942..

Meanwhile I was called up “conscripted” is the word and I had to go, no question of saying no ! I wanted to join WRAF but there was no vacancies at that time and I didn’t fancy the WRENS (Navy) I don’t think I would have been a good sailor but then again I might never have gone to sea as lots of them worked in offices ashore, so there was nothing else for it but join the ATS (Woman’s Auxiliary Territorial Service) The Army, so I and two other girls from Peterhead went to Inverness to the Cameron Barracks where we did our initial training and square bashing and got our fair share of jobs doing this and that, we also got our Army Pay Book which I still have 55years later.

106 I sat exams for office work and was eventually posted to Leeds in Yorkshire to the RAPO (Royal Army Pay Corps) all about the soldiers paybook, covering everything from allowances for this and that, and wives and families, even overseas men’s accounts, We did Royal Army Ordinance Corps, all vehicles and also REME (Royal Electrical and Mechanical Engineers) sometimes it was interesting and others downright boring but it had to be done taking care of the men’s accounts and that, postings to places home and abroad, if they died or were wounded or even captured.

Oh yes, there was sad stories but I was young and it didn’t affect me too much, it was our job and we had to do it ; not our job, our duty!! And we answered the call at least we were at home in our own Country although England was foreign to us Scots Girls, if we were lucky and circumstances permitted we got leave (10 days every 3 months) and I was glad to get home for a change, the long journey going back was very dismal as many a time it was done in the Blackout (no lights) or very little slits and no knowing when there would be an air raid….

When I first arrived in Leeds there was an air raid siren which went of but in all the time I was there, no sirens, no air raids and all this time Peterhead was being bombed, machine gunned,, boats being sunk and convoys being attacked off Peterhead, all carrying valuable cargoes, food, coal etc necessities just for living, food was rationed to the minimum, you didn’t need to go on a diet then, but we were luckier than some other parts, In England they seemed to be more rationed than us but having relatives in the food trade helped us. Oh cigarettes were also rationed, that is if you could get any and drink etc etc clothes too especially silk stockings, that’s when the Yanks got their way with some girls, having nylons when they came over to G.B. The poor British Tommy had nothing to compare with the Yanks, or so they thought!!! I had private billets at times, some were homely others high and mighty, I had billets with a Doctor (a high class one) his office was in the square not far from our own offices, His wife bathed morning, noon and night but soap was scarce so I used to take back to her when I came back from leave and

107 she thought it was priceless. They had a housekeeper and a Scotty dog named Malcolm which I used to take for walks.

I didn’t dine with the Doctor and wife, oh no! I had an alcove set with table and chair all to myself, I got fed up of that and said to Ethel the housekeeper I’ll have my meals in the kitchen with her and avoid all the “fal de lalling” I used to get breakfast in the “morning room” looking out into a rose garden, beautiful. I used to get one measly kipper not even a good Peterhead one.

I did have a nice bedroom, it was all green like the hospitals used to be but it was comfortable after Army beds… I moved to other billets, this time with another girl Peggy Tallinadge, this time with a newspaper reporter and his wife, a young couple which was better, they also had a dog, a red setter, very friendly which I also took for walks…

We were once on Parade and marched past Chuchill standing on the steps of Leeds Town Hall , two large stone lions on either side. That day we did a slow march past, my goodness, “it was painful” one wouldn’t believe it until you’ve done it, and Churchill standing giving the “V” sign !!! At least I can say I saw Churchill in the flesh. The queen as Princess Elizabeth at that time joined the A.T.S. on the transport section, but no Army billets for her, she went home to the Palace at night. I think her entry into the A.T.S. was just propaganda!! what with her posing with a spanner in her hand, a bit of a farce….

Life goes on and the war in all countries, although things have not been good for us British , Germany was well prepared for war, we were not ! and whilst Hitler marched on claiming country after country in victory, our armies crossed the channel and were soundly defeated, all boats of any description, large and small went to take our boys home, many died during the retreat on the beaches of Dunkirk and on the sea when Jerry bombed and sunk ships without any mercy, Jerry was inhumane, they dive bombed, machine gunned

108 helpless men in the water and clinging to boats of all kinds for getting them home. These were very brave men who were there at the evacuation of Dunkirk, France…

You know I,m always amazed That man should feel themselves Honoured by the humiliation Of their fellow human beings.

Mohandas Gandhi

The British “Tommy” lived to fight another day and with Winston Churchill (the man for that time) the Army was built up again including all types of craft, weapons, and transport for land , sea and air, with the aid of the U.S.A.

After she was bombed at “Pearl Harbour” by the Japs who had entered the war along with Germany, Hitler came to the crux, was he to invade Britain or Russia!! he made the same mistake as Napoleon and were both defeated by allied armies, they were not prepared for or geared up for the Russian winter and this went in our favour….

We didn’t get leave for some time as they were preparing for the 2nd front in which we were better armed in all ways and really got the better of the enemy this time.. Yes ! Hitler came to a sticky cowardly end in a bunker, he was shot or shot himself and they tried to burn him and his girlfriend Eva Braun, Mussolini the Italian Dictator was hung from a lamppost in public...

After six years of war, Peace is finally declared and at what cost to the services and civilians alike, it was like no war that went before and never ever should we grudge two minutes silence in remembrance of those who gave their lives for freedom so that we could walk safely in our homeland again, Our country has to get back to the reality of life, rebuild the ruins, build new homes for those who came back, look after the wounded, the blinded and those whose lives have been shattered.. Today’s young men and women probably face different hazards but praise be, they never will, a war again, although in this world there is still wars going on in many countries.

109 Why won’t they learn to live in “Peace”

1945

I swithered if I would stay in the Army Office as a civilian but then I thought No ! I’ve had enough, I want to go home..

Well we are demobbed from the Army and the change over from the discipline of the Army to civilian life again is just as strange and one had to get a job.

I am living at home and working in a bakery, such a change from pen pushing but it only lasted until the person who worked there before call up came back and they had to get their former job back. I finally land a job in a busy Licenced Grocers (J.D.Smiths) at Drummers Corner, there was still rationing of different foods and things are slowly getting back to normal but it takes time especially for those who have lost loved ones. I miss the company of the many friends I’d made at the ATS and still write to a few and now in the year 2000 I wonder how many are still alive and have their memories…

I met a young man who although at the time I didn’t know, was to become my future husband, Peter Buchan Cowe from Roanheads, Peterhead. I believe God directed me on a different path that night and he chose me to look after Peter for the next fifty years, I work in the shop for a bit and Peter was working at Carlisle Airport, he too had served in the war in the Fleet Air Arm on the civilian side of it at Donnibristle in Fife.

The war is finished I’m home, Peter’s home we met and eventually married, we decide to go down to Bishop Auckland where my sister Elsie now lives with her family, Peter worked Carlisle Airport which wasn’t far away and came over at the weekends, we try for a house there but houses are scarce

110 after the war, I discover I am pregnant so we decide to go back to Peterhead where the housing situation is no better, We live in Peter’s mother’s house at 7,Great Stuart Street for the next six years

Our first son David Mikele Cowe is born on the 26th Dec 1947……….

This is where this story ends in 1947 …1948 onwards is another story …..

Any comments or corrections are welcome and should be addressed to

[email protected]

I’m sure some aulder folk will mine on statements like :

He,s a coorse breet !

(He’s a nasty person)

The chumlie, s needin a dicht !

(The mantelpiece is needing dusting)

Far, s mi da, ee,s awae a dander roonaboot.

(Where is my father ? he’s away to the Pub again)

Hud yer wisht !

(Hold your tongue, speak when you are spoken to)

111 A jaloosed at !

(I worked that out for myself)

Ye ochnae dae at, bit ye will onyway.

(You shouldn’t do that but it doesn’t matter you’ll do it anyway)

She’d speer the hin legs aff a donkey !

(She’s a terrible gossip and what she doesn’t know she won’t be long in asking)

He’s aye yabblin on aboot something !

(He’s always got something to blether about)

Am jist gan oot for a wee filie !

(I’m just going out for a short while)

A clarted mae heel a loaf wae syrup.

(I spread syrup on the end slice of the bread)

Fin ever he gets a twae three bawbees he squaners it on smachary

(When ever he gets a penny or two he wastes it on sweeties)

At loon his e biggest lugs in e class

(That boy has the largest ears in class)

E jist winnae dae whit ee, s telt, spic aboot bein thrawn

(He just won’t do what he’s told, speak about being determined)

112 Ere, s aye thing, ee, s nae a clype

(There’s one thing, he is not a tell tale)

HIV ye a spare hyookie tae gie mi for mi linnie

(Have you a spare hook to give me for my fishing line)

A few words from the story translated from the Doric to proper English, not all of them, but maybe helpful to the not so old and a reminder to the slightly older generations of how much oor ain local tongue is gradually disappearing……… aal : old barra : barrow abeen : above beerd : flag acht : eight birze open : force open aff : off boddam : bottom amo : among braid : broad ain own brak : break at : that breet : brute aye : yes Burnie : person from Burnhaven Buss : Old Dutch herring boat

caal : cold dae, n: done cud: could dae, s: does cudnae : couldn’t danderin: casual walk contra: country denner: dinner cowk: cough/splutter dicht : wipe cowp : turnover didnae : did not dizzen : dozen

echt : own/eight faar : where eence : once fat : what een: one or eyes fess : fetch

113 erran : errand filie : short time een : one/ eyes filockie : very short time erran : errand fite : white fleer : floor fluyt : Dutch trading vessel

gan : going haad/hud : hold gart : made harbart : stuttered geed : went gied : good or give ging : go hant : handed grun : ground hingin : hanging gweed : good hitten : struck hilpit : helped hyooks : fish hooks idder : other jaloos : surmise ilka : every kenes : knows kint : knew lach : laugh maan : must loon : young boy mith : might loupit : jumped mirk : darkness lum : chimney muckle : large mucklest : largest neen : none ochtna : shouldn,t nib : nose ower mony : too much niver : never pechin : puffing pintit : painted puckle : a few quin : young girl rale : real raxin : stretching

114 reek: smoke rin : run roch : rough rodd : road ruggit : pulled

sark : shirt trampit : stepped sair : sore teemt : emptied shid : should trowth : truth sic : such siccar : sure vrutten : written sma : small soople : supple wadder : weather sowl : soul waggit : waved speerin : asking warst : worst stack : stuck weel : well stannin : standing whit : what stooter : fatter widder : weather stowff : walk wir : our stramash : muddle wisnae : was not wud : would sizzon : season wull : will wullfu : willfull wunna : won,t wye : way yabblin : talking yagar : Old Dutch supply and herring transport boat.

For ease of following the generations through the years I have done a direct lineage, bearing in mind the the 1st and 2nd generation is created on a word of mouth story handed down over the years,. Although and

115 this is a bit amazing considering I created the character Johannes Kow/Coo before I found this information… Seemingly there was a real person born in Aberdeen by the name of Johannes Kow/Coo in the mid 1600s…I know this sounds unbelievable but its true…

For ease of following, Seatown of Corsekellie was also known as Boatlea so we will stick to Boatlea.

Also Seatown of Rattray also known as Botany

Johannes Kow/Coo married Marjory Mowat b 1647 Holland 1653 Boatlea b 1648 Boatlea bames Cow married Isobel Keith b 1664 Boatlea 1688 Boatlea b 1665 Boatlea

(1693 onwards is all factual)

Alexander Cow married Isabel Rusell b 1693 Boatlea 1718 Boatlea b 1697 Boatlea

Alexander Cow married Sarah Murdo b1721 Boatlea 1742 Boatlea b 1716 Lonmay

John Precie Cow married Isobel Murdo b 1745 Boatlea 1770 Lonmay b 1739 Boatlea

John Preice Cow married Margaret Murray b1779 Boatlea unknown b 1782 Crimond

Andrew Cow married Barbara Cooper b 1820 Botany 1839 Botany b 1820 Rathen

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David Cow married 1st Jessie Strachan b 1840 Burnhaven 1860 Peterhead b 1842 St Combs married 2nd Helen Noble 1869 Peterhead b 1845 Broadsea, Fraserburgh

William Cow married 1904 Mary Jane Buchan b 1883 Peterhead 1904 Peterhead b 1885 Peterhead

Peter Buchan Cowe married Mary Spence Thow b 1921 Peterhead 1947 Peterhead b 1918 Strichen

David M Cowe married Gillian Wilson b 1947 Fraserburgh 1967 b 1949 Ellon

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