Plan Your Trip Understand Turkey
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 4 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip 18 Top Experiences ........ 4 Welcome to Turkey ........ 13 18 Need to Know ................. 14 TOP If You Like ........................ 16 EXPERIENCES Month by Month ............. 20 Itineraries ........................ 23 Turkey’s Outdoors ......... 28 Money Regions at a Glance ....... 33 » ATMs are widely available. Credit cards Visas are accepted by most » To stay for up to 90 businesses in cities Crossingdays, Between you can the buy Continents a and tourist areas. In Ģstanbul,visa you at can the climb aboardairport. a commuter ferry (p78) and Á it between Europe and Asia in 1 less than an hour. Every day, a Á otilla of boats take locals up the Bosphorus and over the Sea of Marmara, sounding their sonorous horns as they go. Morning services share the waterways with diminutive À shing boats and massive container ships, all accompanied by Á ocks of wildly shrieking seagulls. At sunset, the tapering minarets and Byzantine domes of the Old City are thrown into relief against a dusky pink sky it’s the city’s most magical sight 00-top-experiences-tur12.indd 4 2/12/2010 1:07:33 PM GREECE f# Websites Exchange R İstanbul •# SEA OF É » Lonely Planet MARMARA (www.lonelyplanet. Australia A $ Gallipoli f# com/turkey) Info, Canada C $ Peninsula É bookings and forum. Europe € 1 PLAN YOUR TRIP •# Çanakkale » Turkey Travel Japan Ս1 É Planner (www.turkey New Zealand N Z Ephesus, travelplanner.com) Ģzmir & the Bodrum & the Wester UK U K •# Useful travel info. REGIONSATAGLANCE North Aegean South Aegean Anatol Behramkale USA U S Ayvalık •# » Turkish Cultural History 333 History 333 History 3 Foundation (www. Village Life 33 Nightlife 333 Ruins 33 GREECE Food 33 Sun & Surf 33 Craftwork turkishculture.org) É Culture and heritage. Important N History History History Troy , the sight of the famous Romans once bustled along With its mo military trick, is near the the Curetes Ways at Ephe- museums, B top of Turkey’s Aegean coast. sus, Turkey’s most visited Ottoman ca İzmir •# The hilltop ruins of Per- ruins. Less frequented relics stantinople gamum are also renowned, of Aegean history include also left the É plus there are numerous Didyma, where the Temple the Phrygia less-visited sights and some of Apollo was once the hewn monu living history: echoes of the world’s largest temple after from the di •# population exchange with Selçuk’s Temple of Artemis; days. More Ephesus Greece and descendents of and eerie Priene, a hilltop EskiŎehir h Turkmen nomads. Ionian city. of Turkey’s economic b Village Life Nightlife The southern Aegean can The tourist machine hum- Ruins keep its Á ashy resorts. In ming between Bodrum’s At Hierapol laid-back spots such as palm trees has created a among Á ute Bozcaada island, the Biga mean nightlife, with wa- umns. Ruin peninsula, Behramkale, terfront bar-clubs making to be ‘the ne Ayval×k and Bergama, life the most of the town’s twin are Sagalas has kept its alluringly slow bays. Another sexy spot for Pisidian- He rural pace. The changing a sundowner is Türkbükü, city backed seasons and weekly markets summer playground of and Afrodis are still the main events. Ģstanbul’s jet set. grandeur of Food Sun & Surf Craftwork This is the place to try ThesouthernAegeanis Ģznik is fam PAGE GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP UNDERSTAND07-regions-glance-tur12.indd 34 25/11/2010 4:29:25 PM 619 Learn about the big picture, so you TURKEY 05-itineraries-tur12.indd 23 can make sense of what2/12/2010 1:08:50 you PM see Turkey Today .................. 620 02-need-know-tur12.indd 15 population per sq km 25/11/2010 4:03:48 PM TURKEY USA UK History ............................. 622 Architecture .................... 639 ns ex anded into southeastern Europe, reaching th ≈ 30 people nna before being relentlessly pushed back. By 1912 armies were advancing on Ģstanbul, and durin The Turkish Table ........... 642 European powers sought to dismember Turkey enti The Arts........................... 650 c 4000– c 6500 BC 3000 BC rkey Today Founding of Hattian culture The rld during the Ottoman and Byzantine empires, The People ...................... 656 Çatalhöyük, the develops at Alacahöyük ivota on the global stage. Its position at the meeting world’s À rst city. during the early Bronze Asia informs its political bent: the secular country has Turkey’s Environment .... 661 Over time 13 layers Age, though settlement micgovernmentan good relations with the West for of houses were has been continuous Ha built, beehive style, since the chalcolithic c interconnected and age. The Hatti develop T linked with ladders. distinctive jewellery to At its peak the city and metalwork and exte housed around 8000. weapons. 21-history-tur12.indd 622 25/11/2010 3:58:04 PM turkey-12-cover.indd 2 3/12/2010 10:25:56 AM 20-today-tur12.indd 620 25/11/2010 3:56:30 PM Get the right guides for your trip PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 38 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips NEXT TOP EXPERIENCES MAP PAGE Thrace & Marmara İstanbul p118 _COUNTRYp40 & CITY ENCOUNTER PHRASEBOOK • The original • Pocket-sized Northeastern Black Sea Coast & Anatolia • Comprehensive Ankara & • Easy-to-use • Adventurous the •Kaçkar Highlights Mountains p533 Central p495 İzmir & the Anatolia North Aegean Western p395 p157 Anatolia Southeastern p252 Ephesus, Bodrum Cappadocia Anatolia Looking& the South for other p449travel resources?p562 Aegean p203 Antalya & the Eastern Western Mediterranean Mediterranean p361 p295 LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE YOUR AT-A-GLANCE REFERENCE ForPAGE travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, advice, tips & digitalSURVIVAL guides for the street for your readerHow to get around,inspiration get & aideas room, chapters667 lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine GUIDE stay safe, say hello Turkish Airlines com) is the nation with budget subs Sun Express (ww Directory A-Z .................. 668 press.com) and A Jet (www.anadolu Turkish Airlines h Lonely Planet in numbers nine crashes sinc Transport ........................ 683 most recently, ni died when one of crashed at Amst Schiphol airport Transport The main inter Health .............................. 697 airports are in we Turkey: 70 12 100,000,000 At many land border 190+ Ģstanbul Atatür GETTING THERE crossings there are no ATMs ataturkairport.com & AWAY or money-changing facilities; principal interna languagesLanguage spoken ........................ seconds pass 702 Lonely Planet guidebooks Flights, tours and rail tickets make sure you bring enoughcountries airport, with fligh covered can be booked online at lone- of the appropriate currency Europe, North A lyplanet.com/bookings. to pay for your visa. Middle East, Nor by our writers between posts shipped, and still counting Security on borders withby and a Asia. Lonely Planet countries to the east and Ģstanbul Sabiha Index ................................ 718 Entering the southeast (Georgia, Azerbai- (www.sgairport.co Country jan, Iran, Iraq and Syria) is flights from Euro generally tight, and customs budget carriers s on our ThornTree The main idiosyncrasy to be guide o cers may want to see EasyJet, plus a f aware of is that most visitors what you are bringing in. from the Middle need a ‘ visa’ – really just Map Legend .................... 730 If you’re travelling by train Antalya (www.ay travel forum a sticker in their passport, or bus, expect to be held Flights from Euro issued at the point of entry up at the border for two to (see p ### for more infor- three hours – or even longer Ģzmir (www.adna mation). You must buy the if your fellow passengers sairport.com) Flig ibfjiith EdthM Paper in STAY IN TOUCH this book is lonelyplanet.com/contact certified against THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY twitter.com/ the Forest AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 Stewardship James Bainbridge lonelyplanet Council® %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 Brettstandards. Atkinson, USA Jean-Bernard 150 Linden St, Oakland, Carillet, CA 94607 Steve Fallon, Will facebook.com/Gourlay, FSC promotes 28-transport-tur12.indd 683 lonelyplanet25/11/2010 4:30:58 PM environmentally %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 responsible, socially beneficialVirginia and Maxwell, Brandon Presser, Tom Spurling economically viable management UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT lonelyplanet.com/ of the world’s forests. %020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101 newsletter turkey-12-cover.indd 2 3/12/2010 10:25:56 AM Look out for these icons: Our author’s A green or No payment o recommendation S sustainable option F required İSTANBUL . .40 Sığacık . 201 Eskişehir . 272 Princes’ Islands . 115 Akkum & Teos . 202 Kütahya . 274 Afyon (Afyonkarahisar) . 276 THRACE & EPHESUS, BODRUM Uşak . 279 MARMARA . 118 & THE SOUTH Denizli . 279 AEGEAN . .203 Edirne . 119 Pamukkale . 279 Ephesus (Efes) . 205 Uzunköprü . 126 Afrodisias. 284 Kıyıköy . 126 Selçuk . 211 LAKE DISTRICT . 287 Tekirdağ . 127 Şirince . 218 Isparta . 287 Gelibolu . 128 Tire & Kaplan . 219 Sagalassos . 287 Gallipoli (Gelibolu) Pamucak . 220 Peninsula . 130 Kuşadası . 220 Eğirdir . 289 Eceabat . 138 Dilek Peninsula . 226 ANTALYA & Kilitbahir . 139 Priene (Güllübahçe) . 226 THE WESTERN Çanakkale . 140 Miletus (Milet) . 228 MEDITERRANEAN . .295 Gökçeada . 145 Didyma (Didim) . 229 Muğla . 297 Bandırma . 147 Herakleia . 230 Akyaka (Gökova) . 298 Milas & Around . 231 Marmaris . 299 İZMIR & THE NORTH BODRUM PENINSULA . 233 AEGEAN . 157 Datça & Bozburun Bodrum . 234 Peninsulas . 303 Troy (Truva) & Tevfikiye . 159 Gümbet . 243 Köyceğiz . 308 Bozcaada . 160 Bitez . 243 Dalyan . 310 Biga Peninsula . 164 Ortakent . 244 Dalaman . 314 Behramkale & Assos . 165 Turgutreis . 245 Göcek . 314 Ayvacık . 168 Gümüşlük . 245 Fethiye . 315 Bay of Edremit .