©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 626

Index

A 388-90 tours 367-8 Columns of the Abana 501 287-322, 409-50, travel to/from 374 Evangelists 227 accommodation 590-2, see 517-54 travel within 375-6 Didyma 252-7, 263, 262 also individual locations accommodation 287, walking tours 372, 372 Elaiussa-Sebaste 393 409, 517 booking 111 Anzac Cove 157, 162 Ephesus 12, 24, central 409-50, 226-32, 233-4, 263, boutique hotels 28 410 Anzac Day 160 climate 287, 409, 517 573, 224, 13 costs 21, 111 Arasta Bazaar 133, 133 eastern 517-54, Eskişehir 305 discounts 264 518-19 archaeological sites & ruins Euromos 255 language 617-18 food 287, 409, 517 27, 262-3 Gate of 230 activities 26-7, 37-41, see highlights 288, 306-7, Acropolis () 423 410, 518 Göreme Open-Air also individual activities 395 travel seasons 287, Museum 454-5 Adamkayalar 395 Afrodisias 307, 313-15, 409, 517 Great Theatre (Miletus) 400-3, 401 314, 306 western 287-322, 227, 263 Aegean coast 221-86 288 Afyon 305-8 404 Gymnasium of Vedius 226 accommodation 175, 221 Agora (İzmir) 201-2 Ancient Harbour Baths 227 food 175, 221 Alacahöyük 432 388-9, 397, 397 Harbour Street 227 highlights 176, 204-5, 222 182 Angora wool 422 Hattuşa 428-31 history 223 Amisos Antik Kenti 504 14, 529, 543-6, 544, 15, Herakleia 254 north 175-220, 176 Ancient 346-7 528-9 Hercules Gate 231 south 221-86, 222 Andriake 362 411-22, 412, 415, 310-11, 310 travel seasons 175, 221 Anemurium Ancient City 419, 420 Hydreion 231 Afrodisias 307, 313-15, 388-9, 397, 397 accommodation 416-17 Iasos 255 314, 306 Ani 14, 529, 543-6, 544, drinking 419 Kaleiçi 366 Ağrı Dağı 549-50 15, 528-9 entertainment 420 Kanlıdivane 395 air travel 604-5, 608 Antandros 183-4 festivals & events 416 Karakuş Tümülüsü 551-2 airlines 605 Antiphellos Ruins 355 food 417-19 397, airports 21, 604 Arsameia 552 396 medical services 420 325 Akkum 220 Arykanda 364 money 420 Kayaköy (Levissi) Aksaray 492-3 Asclepion 231 nightlife 419 Abandoned Village 339 Akyaka 285-6 Asklepion 192-3, 204 shopping 420 361 Ala Dağlar National Park 376 sights 411-16 Knidos 263, 282, 488-9 180-1 262-3 tourist information 420 Kurşunlu Külliyesi Alacahöyük 432 Baths of Scholasticia 231 travel to/from 420-1 Complex 303 Alaçatı 217-19 Baths of Varius 232 travel within 421-2 Labranda 255 394, 396 Batık Şehir 361 Antakya 405-8, 407 Laertes 388 384-8, 386, 4 Beçin Castle 255 365-76, , Laodicea 307, 315, 306 alcohol 23, 43 367 368 Behramkale 180-1 accommodation 369-70 Latrines 231 560-1 Acropolis 192 activities 366-7 Letoön 345 Alibey Island 189-90, 204 Büyük Mabet 429 drinking 373-4 Library of Celsus 227 Altıparmak 533-4 Castle (Eğirdir) 316 entertainment 374 Marble Street 227 499-500 Çatalhöyük 450 food 370-3 422-3 433-7, 434 Çavuşin Old Village Ruins nightlife 373-4 466 Miletus 251-2, 263, 252 shopping 374 of St Mary Monastery Valley 491 Map Pages 000 sights 366-7 (Ephesus) 226 Myra 361-2 Photo Pages 000 tourist information 374 627 Nemrut Dağı 18, 552, Assos 180-3 Bergama 190-6, 205, 191, tourist information 268 18, 528 Atatürk 413, 567-8, 571 194, 204 travel to/within 268 Odeon 232 ATMs 595 accommodation 194 Castle 259-60 Olympos 363 Avanos 468-71 activities 192-4 Bodrum Peninsula 256-75, Perge 376-7, 376 Aya Sofya 12, 66-70, 67, 12 drinking 194-5 257 Phaselis 371 closing days 70 food 194-5 Boğazkale 427, 428, 429 Pınara 344 Aya Sofya Tombs 70 history 190 bombings 411 INDEX Pollio Fountain 231 Ayancık 501 shopping 195 books 556, 577-8 249-51, 263, 250 Ayder 530-2 sights 192-4 architecture 576 Prytaneum 231 Aydıncık 173 tourist information 195 history 558, 562, 565,  A-C travel to/from 195 566, 567, 568, 570, 572

 Red Hall 193-4 Aydınlık Köyü 248 Roman ruins (Ankara) Ayvacık 183 travel within 195-6 border crossings 605-7 416 Ayvalı 482-3 Bergama Acropolis 192 Azerbaijan 548 Bulgaria 151-2 Roman theatre (Fethiye) Ayvalık 184-9, 186 Beyoğlu 93-9 333 Azerbaijani border Bezirgan 354 Georgia 516, 538 Roman theatre (Hierapo- crossings 548 bicycle travel 608 Greece 151-2 lis) 310, 306-7 Biga Peninsula 182 Iran 548-9 Ruins of 213 Bitez 268-9 Bosphorus 10, 587, 10 B 307, 320-2, Black Sea Coast 497-516, Bosphorus Ferry Tour Babakale 182 307 498 100-5 balloon flights 38, 469 Sarayiçi 149 accommodation 497 boutique hotels 28 bargaining 23, 595 Sarı Kale 429 climate 497 boyoz 208 Barhal (Altıparmak) 533-4 Side 379-80 food 497, 514 Bozburun 284-5 Cistern 70-4 Sobesos 484 highlights 498 Bozburun Peninsula 19, Bay of Edremit 183-4 St Paul’s Well 399 travel seasons 497 279-85 bazaars 17, 25, 133, 132-3 Syedra 388 blue cruises 16, 352-3, 337, Bozcaada 177-80, 178, 204 Arasta Bazaar 126, Temple of Apollo 252-3, 352-3 Bozcaada Wine Festival 179 133, 133 262 Blue 75-6 Bulgarian border crossings Balık Pazar 130 Temple of 235 boat travel 138, 607-8, 151-2 Temple of Athena 180-1 Demirciler Arastası 424 608-9, see also boat 291-302, 294-5, Temple of Athena Polias Emir Han 293 trips 298 251, 262 Grand Bazaar 17, 85, 133, blue cruises 16, 337, accommodation 297-9 Temple of 192 132-3 352-3, 352-3 activities 296-7 Temple of 380 Kadıköy Produce Market to/from 607-8 drinking 299-300 Temples of Apollo & 99-100 boat trips 41 entertainment 300 Athena 379 Kapalı Çarşı 293 Antalya 367-8 festivals & events 297 Teos 220 Kemeraltı Market 199 blue cruises 16, 337, food 299-300 377-8, 377 293 352-3, 352-3 shopping 300 Terraced Houses 230 Pınar Pazarı 316 Bosphorus Ferry Tour sights 292-6 Tlos 343 Spice Bazaar 89, 133, 100-5 tourist information 300 132 Troy 170 Ferry Tour travel to/from 300 beaches 14, 25 105-6 Uzuncaburç 393, 397 travel within 301-2 Anamur 389 Kalkan 348 Xanthos 345 bus travel 606, 607, Yazılıkaya 431 Büyük Çakıl Plajı 355 Kuşadası 243 609-10, 612 Yenıce Kale 429 Çaka 507 Long Bosphorus Tour business hours 21, 596 105 Zelve Open-Air Museum Çalış Beach 333 Butterfly Valley 341-2 277 467 Dilek Peninsula 248 Büyükada 142-3 Ölüdeniz 340 architecture 27, 573-6 İztuzu Beach 325 Byzantine period 574 books 576 Konyaaltı Plajı 367 Sagalassos 320 Byzantine period 574 Lara Plajı 367 Side 380 Ottoman period 574-6 Liman Ağzı 355 Turquoise Coast 337, 353 C Caesar, Julius 561 Seljuk period 574 Marmaris 277 Bodrum 257-68, 258 Çakraz 500 Ardanuç 536-7 Ölüdeniz Beach 340 accommodation 261-5 Çamlıhemşin 527 area codes 21 Olympos Beach 363 activities 261 Çanakkale 164-9, 166 Armenian people 404, 569 Patara Beach 347 drinking 267-8 Çandarlı 196 art galleries, see museums Sagalassos 320 entertainment 267-8 & galleries Sandy Beach 380 food 265-7 canoeing 40 arts 577-80 Behramkale 180-3 shopping 268 canyoning 40 Arykanda 364 belly dancing 580 sights 259-61 Cape Helles British Memorial 159, 163 628 Cappadocia 10, 451-96, Çatalzeytin 501 Kızıl Kilise 492 discount cards 24, 135, 452, 11 cathedrals, see churches & Orthodox Church 137, 466 accommodation 451, 461 cathedrals (Antakya) 406 diving & snorkelling 40, balloon flights 469 Caves of Heaven & Hell Öşkvank Kilesesi 537-8 277, 326, 355 climate 451 395, 397 Pancarlı Kilise 474 Divriği 438 food 451 Çavuşin 466-7 Patriarchal Church of St Doğanyurt 501

INDEX INDEX highlights 452 cell phones 20, 599 George 93 Doğubayazıt 546-9, 547 tours 453 cemeteries & memorials Roman Dolmabahçe 98 163 406 travel seasons 451 dolmuşes 612 57 Alay & Kesikdere Soğanlı 483 C-E car travel 607, 610-11 Dörtkilise 529, 533  Cemeteries 158 St Helen’s Church 449 driving licences 610 drinks 26, 43, 153, 179 Anzac Cove 157, 162 St Paul’s Catholic  hire 610-11 driving, see car travel Baby 700 Cemetery 158 Church 400-1 insurance 611 Lone Pine 157, 162 Surup Krikor Lusavoriç road rules 611 Kilise 495 Çeşme 214-17, 215 E earthquakes 588 Ceylan, Nuri Bilge 580 Yenikapı Greek Church Ağzıkara Hanı 493 367 Eceabat 161-4 changing money 21 Cinci Hanı 424 Cide 501 economy 556-7 children, travel with 49-51 Sarıhan 471 kingdom 404 145-52, Chimaera 364 146 Taş Han 439 cinema 556, 579-80 accommodation 150 churches & cathedrals Carian Trail 255 28 drinking 151 Ayastafanos Church 316 Carpet Museum 70 Çıralı 362, 363-5 food 150-1 Ayios Haralambos carpets 577 Church 214 climate 20, 29-32 nightlife 151 Çarşı 423-4 Ayios Kostantinos-Eleni clothing 22 shopping 151 castles & fortresses 439 Kilise 481 Constantine, Emperor 60 sights 146-9 384 Ayios Vasilios Kilise 60-1, 118 tourist information 151 Amasra Castle 499 481-2 consulates 593 travel to/from 151 Ayasuluk Fortress 235 Barhal Church 533 Çorum 432-3 Edremit 183-4 Beşkapılar 197 Basilica of St John 234-5 costs 21 Eğirdir 315-20, 318 259-60 Çavuşin Kilisesi 466 courses electricity 593 177 Cemil Church 484 cooking 109 embassies 593 Bursa Citadel 293 Church and Monastery language 594 emergencies 21 Çandarlı Castle 196 of St George 143 credit cards 595 language 620 Castle 393 Church of St Demetrius culture 581 environment 585-8 242 Crusader Fortress 333 Cunda 189-90, 204 environmental issues Church of St Gregory Dış Kale 197 currency 20, 595-6 586-8 (Tigran Honents) Harşena Kale 434-5 customs regulations 592 Ephesus 12, 24, 223-33, 543, 528 İç Kale 545 cycling 608 233-4, 263, 573, 224, Church of St Jean 472, 203 13, 263 486-7 Kalesi (Erzurum) 520 history 224 Church of St John the Castle 542 D ruins 226-34 Baptist (Çavuşin) 466 Dalaman 330 Kayseri Castle 494 sights 226-32 Church of St John the Dalyan 325-30, 328 Kızkalesi Castle 393 Baptist (Şirince) 242 Ephesus Museum 234 dance 580 Kozan Castle 403 Church of St Mary 177 Erciyes Dağı 496 dangers, see safety Kuşadası Castle 243 Church of St Nicholas Erzurum 520-3, 521 Darüşşifası 438 Marmaris Castle & 362 Erzurum Eski Bademli 172 Datça 280-2 Museum 275-6 Church of St Paul 399 Eski Datça 282-3 Datça Peninsula 19, 279- Ortahisar Castle 474 Church of St Peter 406 Eski Foça 196-8 85, 19 Rize Castle 516 Church of St Eskişehir 302-5 Demre 361-2 Castle 391 202-3 etiquette 23 Sinop Fortress 501 Church of St Thekla 392 dervishes 19, 126, 443, 446, 471, 19 food 48 Tek Kale Kalesi 533 Church of the Mother of Devrent Valley 468 events, see festivals & Uçhisar Castle 464-5 God 536-7 events Didim, see Didyma Yılankale 397, 403 Church of the Redeemer exchange rates 21 Didyma 252-3, 263, Çatalhöyük 450 543 262 Dörtkilise 529, 533 Dilek Peninsula 248 diphtheria 615 F () 398 disabilities, travellers fairy chimneys 467, 469, Map Pages 000 Ihlara Valley 489-90 with 600 476, 481, 482 Photo Pages Faralya 341-2 000 Karanlık Kilise 455, 487 629 ferries, see boat trips sights 155-9 Meydan Hamamı 510-11 Homer 559 festivals & events 29-32 tours 159 Old Turkish Bath Hopa 516 Alaçatı Herb Festival 217 gay travellers 594 (Fethiye) 333 horse riding 38, 475 Ankara Film Festival 416 Gelibolu, see Ottoman Turkish Bath hot-air ballooning 38, 469 Ankara Music Festival Peninsula 243 hot springs & spas 326, 416 Georgian border crossings Sefa Hamamı 367 531

Anzac Day 160 516, 538 Tarihi Sultan Hamam 213 INDEX Bozcaada Wine Festi- Georgian Valleys 535-8, Yeni Hamam 548 val 179 535 Yeni Kaplıca 296 I İçel 398

International Golden gevrek 208 Hatay 405-8  F-I İçmeler Köyü 248 Karagöz Folk Dance Geyikli 182  ,Hattuşa 427-8, 428-31 Ihlara Valley 489-91, Competition 297 Gideros 501 429 490 immigration 601, 604 International Golden Göbekli Tepe 573 health 614-16 Saffron Documentary İnebolu 501 Göcek 330-1 insurance 614 Film Festival 425 insurance 593 Gökçeada 171-4, 172 vaccinations 614 International İzmir health 614 Göksu Delta 392 Hemşin people 527 Festival 206 internet access 594 Gökyurt 450 hepatitis 615 İzmir European Jazz Iranian border crossings Golden Horn Ferry Tour Hevek 534 Festival 206 548-9 105-6 Heybeliada 142 Karagöz Festival 297 İşhan 536-7 Göltürkbükü 273-4 Hierapolis 310-11, Mesir Macunu Festivalı 310 23, 583, 596 213 Gordian Knot 560 highlights 10-19 İslamlar 354 Mevlâna Festival 447 Gordion 422-3 hiking 37-8, 316-17 58-143, 59, 62-3, Fethiye 331-8, 332-3 Göreme 454-64, 456 Ala Dağlar National 71, 72-3, 86-7, 94-5, Grand Bazaar 17, 85, 133, Park 488 accommodation 334-5 128-9 Carian Trail 255 activities 333-4 132-3 accommodation 58, drinking 336 Great Mountain 301 Göreme National Park 109-14 459 food 335-6 Great Palace of activities 100-8 Byzantium 60 Güllüdere (Rose) Valley shopping 337-8 climate 58 Great Theatre 227, 455-7 sights 331-3 263 drinking 121-5 Greek border crossings Kaçkar Mountains tourist information 338 entertainment 125-6 151-2 (Kaçkar Dağları) 524-6 tours 334 festivals & events 108-9 Greek culture 185 Köprülü Kanyon 378 travel to/from 338 food 58, 114-21 Greek resettlements 185 Lycian Way 13, 334, 339, travel within 338 345, 13 highlights 59 gülets 16, 337, 353, 16 films 556, 579-80 Mt Ararat 549-50 history 60-5 Gülpınar 182 Fırtına Valley 530 safety 37 itineraries 66 Gülşehir 472-3 food 26, 42-8, 208, 205 St Paul Trail 317 medical services 135 Gümüşlük 270-1 Ayvalık tostu 188 Hippodrome 74-5 money 135 Gündoğan 272-3 cooking courses 109 history 25-6, 558-72 nightlife 121-5 Güzelyurt 491-2 costs 21 Alexander the Great postal services 135 etiquette 48 560-1 safety 134-5 language 46-7, 618-19 H Atatürk 567-8, 571 shopping 126-34 seasons 42 Hacıbektaş 473-4 Bergama 190-2 sights 65-100 frescoes 486-7, 487 , see Aya books 558, 562, 565, telephone codes 136 Sofya 566, 567, 568, 570, 572 tourist information 135-6 hamams 15, 25, 107-8, 15 561-2 tours 108 G Armutalan Hamamı 277 democratisation 568-70 Tower 99 travel to/from 136-7 Balık Pazarı Hamamı 367 431, 559 galleries, see museums & travel within 137-9 Çarşi Hamamı 401 galleries İstanbul 60-5 walking tours 90-1, 91 Gallipoli campaign 567 Cinci Hamam 425 Lycian kingdom 346 İstanbul Gallipoli Historical National Elis Kapadokya 563-6 Museums 83-5 Hamam 458 Park 155 Recep Tayyip Erdoğan’s İstanbul area 140-1 Eski Hamam 506 Gallipoli Peninsula 16, Justice & Develop- İstanbulkart 137 Eski Kaplıca 296 ment Party (AKP) 153-61, 163, 154, 156, İstiklal Caddesi 92 Hacı Hekim Hamamı 194 571-2 16, 162-3 itineraries 33-6, 33, 34, II Murat Hamamı 290 561 accommodation 161 35, 36 Kelebek Turkish Bath Troy 169 battlefields 158 İzmir 198-212, 200 Spa 458 Turkic empire 563 books 160 accommodation 206-7 Kurşunlu Hamam 442 Hittite people 431, 559 food 161 drinking 209-10 holidays 596, 597 history 154 Mestan Hamamı 401 630 İzmir continued travel to/from 449 medrese 199 entertainment 210 travel within 449 Bürüciye Medresesi 440 Hızır Bey Camii 316 food 207-9 Köprülü Kanyon 378 Büyük Ağa Medresesi Hüdavendigâr Mosque nightlife 209-10 Kozan 403 435 181 shopping 210 kumru 208 Çifte Minare Medrese İsa Bey Camii 235 sights 199-203 Kurdish people 581-3 440 İzzet Paşa Camii 425

INDEX INDEX tourist information 210 Kurdistan Workers Party Çifte Minareli Medrese Kale Camii 441 520 travel to/from 210-11 (PKK) 556, 582 Kaleiçi Camii 243 Gök Medrese 437, 441 travel within 211-12 Kuşadası 243-9, 244 Kocatepe Camii 414-16 Medrese (Mustafapaşa) I-M 289-305, 290 Kuscu Köyü 501 Köprülü Mehmet Paşa 482 Camii 425  Sahabiye Medresesi 494 Little Aya Sofya 76 J L Şifaiye Medresesi 440 Manuçehr Camii 545 Lake Bafa 253-4 Jewish history & culture Yakutiye Medresesi 520 Mehmet Paşa Camii 435 98-9, 202, 203, 584 Lake District 315-22 Mehmet II 61-4, 564 Merkez Camii 392 landscape 27, 585 memorials, see cemeteries Mihrimah Sultan Mosque language 20, 23, 617-23 & memorials K (İstanbul) 92 Kabak 342-3 accommodation 617-18 Merkez 171, 172-3 Mihrimah Sultan Mosque Kaçkar Mountains (Kaçkar courses 594 Mersin 398-9 (Üsküdar) 84 Dağları) 523-34, 524-5 emergencies 620 meyhanes 16, 16 293 Kadıköy 99-100 food 46-7, 618-19 Milas 254-6 Muradiye Mosque Kaleköy (Gökçeada) 171-2 Laodicea 307, 315, 306 Miletus 251-2, 263, 252, (Edirne) 148 Kaleköy (western Mediter- legal matters 594 263 Muradiye Mosque ranean) 360-1 leishmaniasis 615 mobile phones 20, 599 (Manisa) 212 Kalkan 348-51 leptospirosis 615 monasteries Murat I (Hüdavendigâr) Camii 296 Kalkan 349 lesbian travellers 594 Alahan Monastery 394, New Mosque Kapısuyu 500 Letoön 345 396 (İstanbul) 89 Kaplan 239 LGBTQI travellers 594 Church and Monastery of St George 143 Old Mosque (Edirne) 148 Karasu Köyü 248 literature 577-8 Eski Gümüşler Monas- Rüstem Paşa Mosque Kariye Museum (Chora lokum 84, 2 tery 485, 486 89, 4 Church) 92-3 Lone Pine cemetery 157, Hagia Triada Monastery Sabancı Merkez Camii Kars 538-43, 540 163 142 400 Kaş 354-9, Long Bosphorus Tour 105 356 Hallacdere Monastery Sahib-i Ata Külliyesi 446 Kavaklı Burun Köyü 248 Lycian kingdom 346 474-5 Şakirin Mosque 84 kayaking 40 Lycian Way 13, 334, 339, Keşlik Monastery 484 Sancaklar Camii 152 Kayaköy 338-40 345, 13 Open Palace 472 Selimiye Mosque 146 Kayseri 493-6, 494 Selime Monastery 490 Şemsi Ahmed Paşa Kekova 14, 359-60, 361, 14 M 17, Mosque 84 Kemal, Mustafa, malaria 615 514-15, 529, 17, 529 Sermaye Camii 406 see Atatürk Manisa 212-14 Yüksek Kilise & Manastır Süleymaniye Mosque 85-9, 574 Kemal, Yaşar 577 maps 594 491-2 Sultan Alaadın Camii kitesurfing 41, 285 markets, see bazaars money 20, 592, 595-6 Kırkpınar 149 366 Marmara 144-74, 145 bargaining 23 Kızkalesi 393-4 tipping 23 Sultan Beyazıt II Camii accommodation 144 435 Knidos 263, 282, 262 574 food 144 Sultan Beyazıt II Mosque Alaaddin Camii 446 Konak Meydanı 202 highlights 145 Complex 148 Atik Valide Mosque 84 442-9, 444-5 travel seasons 144 Taşkınpaşa Mosque 484 Aya Sofya (İznik) 289 accommodation 447-8 Marmaris 275-9, 276 Üç Şerefeli Mosque 148 Aya Sofya () 509 drinking 448 mausoleums, see tombs & (Adana) 400 Blue Mosque 75-6 festivals & events 447 mausoleums Ulu Cami (Aksaray) 492 Burmalı Minare Camii 435 food 448 media 594 Ulu Cami (Divriği) 438 Çinili Mosque 84 safety 448 medical services 615 Ulu Cami (Sivas) 441 Çınarlı Cami 185 shopping 448 Mediterranean Coast Ulu Camii (Bursa) 293 Emir Sultan Camii 295-6 sights 443-7 382-408, 383 Yağ Camii 400 Mosque 90 tourist information 448 accommodation 382 Yavuz Sultan Selim food 382 Gök Medrese Camii 435 Mosque 93 highlights 383, 396-7 Gümüşlü Cami 435-6 84 Map Pages 000 travel seasons 382 Hacı Bayram Camii 414 Yeşil Cami (İznik) 289 Photo Pages 000 631 Yeşil Camii (Bursa) 295 Straits Naval Medical History Museum Trabzon Museum 509 Yıldırım Beyazıt Camii Command Museum 212-13 Turkish & Islamic Arts 296 164 Mersin Museum 398 Museum 295 motorcycle travel 607, Dibeklihan Culture & Art Mevlâna Museum 443-5 Ulumay Museum of Otto- 610-11 Village 271-2 Mevlevihane 437-8 man Folk Costumes & Mt Ararat (Ağrı Daği) Edirne Archaeology & Museum of Anatolian Jewellery 293 Ethnography Museum 549-50 Civilisations 411-13 Ünye Müze Evi 506 INDEX 147 Mt Nemrut, see Nemrut Museum of Health 148-9 Vakıf Eserleri Müzesi 414 Dağı Edirne Turkish & Islamic Yakutiye Medresesi 520 Art Museum 147 Museum of Innocence Mudanya 302 96 Zelve Open-Air Museum Ephesus Museum 234 M-O Muhteșem Yüzyıl 578 Museum of Seljuk 467 Erimtan Archaeology &  museum passes 135, 466 Civilisation 493 music 578-9 Arts Museum 414 museums & galleries Museum of the Ancient music festivals 29-32 24, 27-8 Ethnographic Museum Orient 83 (Konya) 447 Mustafapaşa 481-2 Adatepe Olive-Oil Museum of the Princes’ Mylasa, see 183 Ethnography Museum Islands 143 (Ankara) 414 Ahi Evran Zaviyesi 495 Museum of Turkish & Ethnography Museum Islamic Arts 76 N 492 (İzmir) 203 Alacahöyük Museum 432 Museum of Turkish Jews Narlıkuyu 395 Fethiye Museum 98-9 national parks & nature Alanya Museum 384 (Fethiye) 331-2 Museum of Underwater reserves 586, 587 Alibey Kudar Etnografya Fethiye Museum Galerisi 184 Archaeology 259 Ala Dağlar National Park (İstanbul) 90-2 488-9 499 Museum of Wooden Galata Mevlevi Museum Artefacts & Stone Dilek Peninsula-Büyük 435 97-8 Carving 445-6 Menderes National Anıt Kabir 413 423 National Park 248 366 Göreme Open-Air Painting Museum 98 Gallipoli Historical Archaeological Museum Museum 454-5 Nevşehir Museum 471 National Park 155 (Eskişehir) 303 Güpgüpoğlu Konağı 493 Niğde Museum 485 Göreme National Park Archaeological Museum Güray Ceramic Museum Ottoman House Museum 459 (Kayseri) 494-5 468 294 Nemrut Dağı National Archaeological Museum Hacıbektaş Veli Museum Painting and Sculpture Park 18, 529, 550-4, (Konya) 447 473-4 Museum (Ankara) 414 551, 18, 528 Archaeology & Eth- Hatay Archaeology Palace Collections Travertines 309-10 nography Museum Museum 405 Museum 99 Nemrut Dağı 18, 529, 550- (Samsun) 504 Hierapolis Archaeology Paşaoğlu Mansion & 4, 551, 18, 528 Archaeology Museum Museum 311 Ethnography Museum Nevşehir 471-2 (İzmir) 203 Hünkâr Kasrı 89-90 507 Niğde 484-5 ARTER 96 Hüsnü Züber Evi 294 96 Atatürk Evi 398 İstanbul Archaeology Rahmi M Koç Industrial Aya Sofya (İstanbul) 12, Museums 83-5 Museum 414 O Öcalan, Abdullah 582 66-70, 67, 12 İstanbul Modern 99 Rahmi M Koç Museum Aya Sofya (Trabzon) 509 İstanbul Museum of the 189 oil-wrestling 149 Bergama Archaeology History of Science & Sabuncuoğlu History of Plateau 392 Museum 193 Technology in Islam 85 Medicine Museum 435 Old Town (Ayvalık) 184-5 Bodrum Maritime İstanbul Naval Museum Sahib-i Ata Vakıf Müzesi Olgunlar 534 Museum 260 99 446 Oltu 538 Boğazkale Museum 428 İzmir Mask Museum 203 Selimiye Foundation Ölüdeniz 340-1 Bozcaada Museum 177 İzmir Museum of History Museum 147 Olympos 362-3 Bursa City Museum & Art 199-201 Side Museum 380 opening hours 21, 596 292-3 İznik Museum 289 392 Ordu 507-8 Carpet Museum 70 Karagöz Museum 299 Sinop Archaeological Ortahisar 474-6 Cer Modern 416 Karatepe-Aslantaş Museum 502 Ortakent 269-70 Open-Air Museum 397, Çeşme Museum 214 Suna & İnan Kıraç Kaleiçi Öşkvank 537-8 404-5, 396 Museum 366 Chez Galip Hair Museum Ottoman empire 563-6 468 Kariye Museum (Chora Taksiyarhis Memorial Church) 92-3 Museum 185 outdoor activities 26-7, City Museum (Eskişehir) 37-41, see also 539 303 399 individual activities Kaymakamlar Müze City Museum & Archive Tile Museum 445 Özkonak Underground Evi 424 (İzmir) 203 Tofaş Museum of Anato- City 471 Çorum Museum 432 Kent Müzesi 164 lian Carriages 296 Culture Folk Museum 474 Koyunoğlu Museum 447 437 632 P R Süleymaniye Mosque Torba 274-5 packing 22 rabies 615-16 85-9, 574 Tortum Gölü 537 palace kitchens 24 rafting 40-1, 378, 526 Sultan Marshes 489 Tortum Şelalesi 537 palaces Ramazan 23 Sultanahmet 66-85 tourist information 600 Dolmabahçe Palace 98 religion 23, 557, 583-4 Sultaniye Hot Springs 326 tours 608, 612-13, see İshak Paşa Palace 529, Rize 515-16 Sumela Monastery 17, also boat trips, walking

INDEX INDEX 514-15, 529, , tours 546-7 Roxelana 565 17 529 synagogues 202 Alanya 385 Topkapı Palace 76-83, ruins, see archaeological 77, 81 sites & ruins Antalya 367-8

P-U Avanos 468-9  Pamukkale 18, 308-13, , Celaleddin 446, 577 T 309, 18 Cappadocia 453

Tamerlane 564  Pamuk, Orhan 578 Çavuşin 466-7 S Tarihi Kırkpınar Yağlı Güreş paragliding 41, 342 Festivali 149 Ephesus 232 safety 322, 411, 597-9, 611 parks & gardens Tarsus 399-400 Fethiye 334 hiking 37 Gençlik Parkı 416 Taşucu 390-1 Gallipoli Peninsula Safranbolu 19, 423-7, 159-60 Jinan Garden 276 taxis 612 424, 19 Göreme 458-9 Kültür Parkı 295 Tekirdağ 152-3 Sagalassos 307, 320-2, Hattuşa 430 Paşabağı 467 Tekkale 533 307 İstanbul 108, 109 passports 601, 604 Saklıkent Gorge 344 telephone services 20, 21, Patara 345-8 599-600 Nemrut Dağı şambalilar 208 (Mt Nemrut) 552-3 Penek 538 Samsun 504-5 Temple of Athena Polias 251, 262 Selçuk 235-7 people 581-4 Sancaklar Camii 152 Teos 220 Troy 171 Pergamum, see Bergama Sarayiçi 149 Tepeköy 173, 174 Ürgüp 476 peribacalar, see fairy Sardis 213 chimneys terrorism 411, 598-9 Trabzon 508-13, 510-11 Şavşat 537 Perşembe 507 144-74, train travel 606, 607, 613 scams 597 145 Phaselis 371 accommodation 144 trams 612 Selçuk 234-41, 236 phonecards 599-600 food 144 travel seasons 20, 29-32 accommodation 237-40 422 highlights 145 travel to/from Turkey 21, drinking 240-1 604-8 Phrygian Valley 305-13 travel seasons 144 food 240 travel within Turkey 21, Pınara 344 Three Graces Fairy sights 234-5 608-13 PKK 556, 582 Chimneys 476 tourist information 241 travellers cheques 596 planning 20-1, 22-3 tiles 292 tours 235-7 trekking, see hiking budgeting 21 time 20, 600 travel to/within 241 Trojan Horse 164-5 calendar of events 29-32 tipping 23, 596 Selge 378 Troy 169-71, 170 children 49-51 Tire 239 Selimiye 283-4 history 169-70 etiquette 23 Tlos 343-4 Seljuks 563 ruins 170 itineraries 33-6 toilets 600 shadow puppets 299 tuberculosis 616 language 23 Tokat 437-40 Side 378-81, Turchia 570 repeat visitors 24 379 tombs & mausoleums Silifke 391-2 Turgutreis 270 travel seasons 20, 29-32 Anıt Kabir 413 Sille 449 Turkey basics 20-1 Turkey’s regions 52-6 Aya Sofya 70 Sinan, Mimar Koca 118 Turkish delight 84, plants 586 Bodrum 260 2 20, 23, politics 556-7 Sinop 501-4, 502 Kings’ Tombs 325 617-23 population 557 Şirince 241-3 Mausoleum of Turkish people 581 postal services 596 Sivas 440-2, 441 263 Sığacık 219-20 Turquoise Coast 323-81, Priene 249-51, 263, 250, Muradiye Complex 293 skiing 32, 41, 301, 496 Sarcophagus of 324 262 accommodation 323 Princes’ Islands 139-43 smoking 597-8 Murat I 296 food 323 produce markets 133, see snorkelling, see diving & Sümbül Baba Türbesi highlights 324 also bazaars snorkelling 439 travel seasons 323 public holidays 596, 597 Soğanlı 483-4 Tomb of Amyntas 332-3 turtles 325, 327, 389 puppets 299 söğüş 208 Tombs of the Pontic Kings 433 Spice Bazaar 89, 133, 132 typhoid 616 St Paul 399 Tozkoparan Rock Tomb 506 street art 100 Üç Kümbetler 520 U Süleyman the Magnificent Üçağız 359-60 Topkapı Palace 76-83, Map Pages 000 565 Uçhisar 464-6 77, 81 Photo Pages 000 Uludağ 301 633 underground cities 472-3 W windsurfing 41, 218 Y Ünye 506-7 walking 37-8 wine 153, 179 Yalıkavak 271-2 Ürgüp 476-81, 478-9 walking tours wineries 179 Yason Burnu 507 Üsküdar 84 Antalya 372, 372 winter sports 41 Yaylalar (Hevek) 534 Uzungöl 515 İstanbul 90-1, 91 women travellers 601-2 Yazılıkaya 431 water sports 40-1, 246 work 602-3 Yılankale 397, 403 WWI 566-7 INDEX V weather 20, 29-32 Yukarı Kaleköy 173 WWI sites 163 villas 273 websites 21 Yusufeli 532-3 vineyards 179 whirling dervishes 19, 126, U-Z  ,471 ,446 ,443 visas 20, 601 19 X Z  visual arts 580 white-water rafting 40-1, Xanthos 345 Zelve 467-8 378, 526 volunteering 601 Zeytinli 173, 174 wildlife 585-6 634 NOTES 635 NOTES 636 NOTES 637 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 638

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Jessica Lee Ankara & Central Anatolia, Cappadocia After four years leading adventure tours across Turkey, Jessica moved there to live in 2011 and Turkey has been home ever since. This is the third edition of the Turkey guide she has worked on and for this edition she made a welcome return to central Anatolia’s creaky Ottoman back streets and pulled on her hiking boots to trek the Ala Dağlar. She also wrote the Turkey’s Outdoors chapter and the Understand features covering Architecture, Arts, People and Environment. Read more about Jess at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/jessicalee1.

Virginia Maxwell İstanbul (Bazaar District, Beyoğlu, Kadıköy and Ferry Trips), İzmir & the North Aegean Although based in Australia, Virginia spends part of each year in Turkey. As well as authoring LP’s İstanbul city guide, she also writes Lonely Planet’s Pocket İstanbul.

Hugh McNaughtan Black Sea Coast, Eastern Mediterranean A former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant applications for visa applications, and turned his love of travel into a full-time thing. Having done a bit of restaurant-reviewing in his home town (Melbourne) he jumped at the opportunity to eat his way around the Black Sea Coast and Eastern Mediterranean. He’s never happier than when on the road with his two daughters. Except perhaps on the cricket field…

John Noble Eastern Anatolia John has been travelling since his teens and doing so as a Lonely Planet writer since the 1980s. The number of LP titles he’s written or co-written is well into three figures, covering a somewhat random se- lection of countries scattered across the globe, predominantly ones where Spanish, Russian or English are spoken (usually alongside numerous local languages). He still gets as excited as ever about heading out on the road to unfamiliar experiences, people and destinations, especially remote, off-the-beaten-track ones. Above all, he loves mountains, from the English Lake District to the Himalaya. See his pics on Instagram: @johnnoble11. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS James Bainbridge Coordinating Author; İstanbul (Sultanahmet & Around, Western Districts, Beşik- taş, Ortaköy & Nişantaşı); Antalya & the Turquoise Coast James is a British writer based in Cape Town, South Africa, where he contributes to publications world- wide. He has been working on Lonely Planet projects for over a decade, including coordinating five editions ofTurkey and writing the first edition ofDiscover Turkey. He was extremely happy to return to İstanbul, where he once lived and took a Turkish-language course, and to the Mediterranean, having previously passed through while researching a feature for Lonely Planet Traveller magazine. James also wrote most of the Plan Your Trip chapters, the Turkey Today and History essays and Survival Guide chapters for this edition. Read more about James at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/james_bains.

Brett Atkinson Thrace & Marmara, Western Anatolia Since first visiting Turkey in 1985, Brett has returned regularly to one of his favourite countries. For his fifth Lonely Planet trip to Turkey he explored the astounding of Bursa and Edirne, the poignant Anzac history of the Gallipoli Peninsula, and surprising destinations including laidback Gökçeada and cosmopolitan Eskişehir. Brett’s contributed to Lonely Planet guidebooks spanning Europe, Asia and the Pacific, and covered over 50 countries as a food and travel writer. See www. brett-atkinson.net for his latest adventures.

Steve Fallon Ephesus, Bodrum & the South Aegean With a house in Kalkan on the Turquoise Coast of the Mediterranean, Steve considers Turkey to be a second home. This assignment took him to that other coast, the South Aegean one, where he stepped back in time at Ephesus, joined a sailing regatta off Bodrum and re- discovered the beauty of the Datça and Bozburun Peninsulas. OK, Türkçe’yi hala mağara adamı gibi konuşuyor (he still speaks Turkish like a caveman), but no Turk has called him Tarzan. At least not yet. Find Steve at www.steveslondon.com.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 15th edition – February 2017 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 235 6 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 2017 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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