ARI The Bulletin of the İstanbul Technical University VOLUME 55, NUMBER 1
Galata and Pera 1 A Short History, Urban Development Architecture and Today
Afife Batur Faculty of Architecture, Istanbul Technical University, Taşkışla, 34437, Taksim, Istanbul, Turkey
Keywords: Galata, Pera, Urban development, Architectural development
The coastal band stretching from the to be more prominent starting from 10th northern shores of the Golden Horn until century onwards. The conditions that had Tophane and the slopes behing it have been created the Medieval Galata were being known as Galata since the 8th century. formed in these trading colonies. At first Formerly this area was known as Sycae Amalfi, then the Venetians and later the (Sykai), or as peran en Sykais, which Pisans had obtained special privileges from essentially means ‘on opposite shore’. the Byzantines. The Genovese, who had It is thought that Galata’s foundation established themselves on the southern preceded that of Constantinopolis. The shores of the Golden Horn as a result of archaeological finds here indicate that it their rights recognized by Emperor Manuel was an important settlement area in Comnenos I (1143-1186), were forced to Antiquity. Although its borders can not be move over to Pera on the opposite shore determined precisely, it is known that when the Venetians seized their territory during the reign of Emperor Constantin during the Latin invasion of 1204. (324 –337), it was a fortified settlement When the Latins departed from consisting of a forum, a theatre, a church, a Constantinople in 1261, the city was in harbor and bath buildings, as well as 431 complete ruins. And the economic relations large houses. The present fortification of the Byzantine capital were now walls were constructed by Emperor completely in the hands of the Venetians Justinian in 528. The 2 meter wide land and the Genovese merchants. Emperor walls surrounded by a 15 meter deep moat Michael Paleologos VIII (1261-1282), who were enclosing an area of 37 hectars. It is was able to recapture Constantinople from surmised that the renowned Castellion that the Latins, signed the Nymfaion Treaty with used to control the entry into the Golden the Genovese and permitted them to rebuild Horn was built by Emperor Tiberius I (578- their commercial loggia, their palazzo 582). comunale and other buildings of theirs. Among the trading colonies in the area, And they received consulate rights, as well that had acquired the commercial harbor as free trade privileges. When rival functions due to favorable topographical Venetians attacked the Genovese colony in conditions, the Italian presence had begun 1296, they wanted to renew their Afife Batur demolished fortification walls, but could not Empire, in return for their acceptance of the secure the necessary permission from the ownership of the region by the Ottoman Emperor, and had to be contented with a State. The Podesta had been replaced by a moat only. On the other hand, they were new administrator called Vaivode. It is well able to formalize their borders as a result of known that a large number of Western a decree dated 1303. As the Byzantine merchants ha settled at Galata following Empire grew weaker, however, the this conquest. The most important axis of Genovese took advantage of this situation to the region was the Voyvoda Avenue strengthen their position, and started to (today’s Bankalar Avenue), which extended build tower houses along this moat, parallel to the shore line and on which were connected them to each other with lined the administrative structures of the crenellated walls, thereby bringing the colony. Galata region to a ready state of defence, During the 16th century, Galata had and expanded their territory towards the become a triangular area opposite the environs of Azapkapı-Şişhane-Galata Historic Peninsula and surrounded by land Tower-Tophane. The Galata Tower was and sea walls. At the highest point was constructed in 1349. According to an situated the Galata Tower, while houses agreement, the colony came under the with religious buildings around them used responsibility of an administrator called to rise towards this center. Furthermore, podesta. The Podesta was considered, at there were walls within the area dividing it the same time, as the ambassador of Genoa into three sections. The environs of Galata at the court of the Byzantine Emperor. The were covered with vineyards and orchards. Podesta, in turn, was responsible towards a The well known engraving by city council of 24 elected members known Buondelmonte (Figure 1) describes the as ‘Magnifica Comunita di Pera’. general lines of this urban structure. The During the 14th century, Galata with its miniature painting of 16th century by the urban form and structures used to display its engraver Nasuh el Matraki, which describes period’s typical features as a Mediterranean Galata within its total environment, city. It had become an important part of the confirms this settlement pattern (Figure 2). city where commercial relations with the During this period, there were taverns, West were established and carried on, and shops and food stores along the shore, in this characteristic of the area had continued addition to the piers. It is recorded that the after the conquest, as well. population profile of Galata during the 16th It is known that the Genovese had century was composed of 35 % Turks, 39 % strengthened and elevated the height of the Greeks, 22 % Europeans, and 4 % fortifications and increased the number of Armenians. city gates in 1446, a few years prior to the In the 17th century Galata continued to siege of the city. However, following the develop within the walls, while the area conquest of Constantinople, Sultan Mehmet outside the fortifications had the II had demanded the removal of the upper countryside appearance. Some of the portion of the walls of Galata, and had neighborhoods of the region, which was signed an agreement with the Genovese systematically Turkified between the 16th recognizing their privileges which they had and the 18th centuries, were composed of obtained during the period of the Byzantine Turks only during the 17th century and,
2 Galata and Pera
Figure 2. The miniature painting of Galata by Nasuh el Matraki in 16th century
Whether at Galata, or at Pera, a
settlement pattern consists of a main axis
and of streets opening into it was th established. In the second half of the 19
century, three or four storey solid looking
stone masonry mansions had started to
replace the earlier timber structures, after
many fires in succession. In spite of this, Figure 1. Engraving of Istanbul by first photographs dated to the middle of the Buondelmonte th 19 century show that Galata still preserved consequently, those areas gave the a particularly dense fabric of timber impression of a Turkish city (Figure 3, 4 buildings. In Pera, on the other hand, the and 5). This situation had continued until majority of the population was European. the middle of the 19th century. The masonry embassy buildings were Beyond the Galata walls, the Pera region, contributing to the region’s European image. which was composed of vineyards-orchards In spite of the resemblances in the and called as ‘Pera Vineyards’, had started settlement pattern, a different trend was to be built up gradually from the middle of observed from the point of view of social, the 18th century onwards. During the 19th cultural and architectural development. The century, on the other hand, an inclination urban pattern of 19th century Galata was had begun in Galata to extend towards the different from Pera. In the illustrations, the open areas beyond the walls. While the luxurious way of life, as well as the vacant areas had begun to be redeveloped splendid physical and social environment of by splendid structures led by the embassy Pera was contrasted with the various human buildings which lined around the main axis groups of every nationality frequenting the called Rue de Pera (today’s İstiklal Avenue), narrow streets full of tavern and cabarets in Galata had transformed into an area where Galata. Here resided a cosmopolitan increasingly the French, the English and the society least worried about its future. On Italian Industrialists and merchants begun to the contrary, Pera was an ‘aristocratic’ settle and all types of merchandise from settlement. During the 19th century, the these countries were unloaded, stored and foreigners, led by the notables of the sold. embassies, the Levantens and the minorities
3 Afife Batur
Figure 3. A view of the region in 1830 Figure 4. The view of Galata Tower in 1830
Figure 5. General view of Beyoglu in 1830 in Pera region had led to the birth of an department stores especially with French elitist way of life, and particularly names and shopping centers like Bon contributed to its development during the Marche, where rich varieties of goods at the following century. The magnificent and same quality as in European cities were on grand hotels of the region had hosted sale. What is more, several of these stores numerous travelers each day. There was a were branch outlets of parent stores in post and telegraph office branch here. The Europe. At the same time printing houses, French and the Italian theatres were located offices of professionals like bankers and in the central area. It was possible to find lawyers, consulting rooms of doctors, and many a splendid coffee house and pastry pharmacies were situated at Galata and Pera, shop here. Besides these, there were as well. The magnificent mansions
4 Galata and Pera exhibiting the full luxuries of the wealthy changes have resulted mainly from Levantens and Greeks, Armenians and Jews rebuilding activities brought in under new that traditionally defined this environment order and planning directives on vacant were lined along the Rue de Pera, as well as plots created by frequent fires during these on the streets leading from it, contributing 50 years. to the said environment. Galata and Pera regions which resembled Western European cities with their physical and social structures, nevertheless, lacked an organized municipal administration by the beginning of the second half of the 19th century. During the Crimean War (1855-56), modern urban organization was initiated with the encouragements of the diplomats and the military delegations of the European States. In this connection the first municipality was established in 1857 on the model of 6earrondissement of Paris under the name of `The Sixth Department of Municipality of Beyoğlu and Galata`. Through this municipality new decisions have been taken in the region until the end of the 19th century which became a model for the rest of Istanbul on issues such as street lighting, Figure 6. The demolishment of Galata`s fortifications by the Sixth Department of street naming, road widening and surfacing, th provision of public transport, taking Municipality in the 19 century measures for the security of the streets, Galata has continued to illustrate the resolving the water shortage problem that characteristics of a Mediterranean port city had been a major suffering in the region that it had possessed from the beginning from the beginning, and the realization of (Figure 7). Galata Tower and a portion of the maintenance and the beautification of its monumental structures, although many the area. The most important decision others have been destroyed, have survived among these has been the demolishment of till our day. On the other hand, the French, Galata`s (Figure 6) fortifications by the the Italian, the Russian, the Swedish, the Sixth Department of municipality. Re- British and the US embassies (Figure 8) and establishment of Galata`s urban structure their gardens, as well as some splendid and determination of its axes have been structures designed by leading architects of realized by this radical decision. Presently the period who have played an important a very small extend of these walls are role in the development of Pera region are standing. still in their original conditions. Although Between 1850 and 1900, Galata and some have suffered in fires and restored Pera have gone through important scale of later, the majority of the religious urban and structural transformations. These monuments are also in their original state.
5 Afife Batur
However, the street fabric and the structural features have undergone changes as a result of planning activities of the Sixth Department of Municipality.
Figure 7. Karakoy Square in the 19th Century
Figure 9. Current wiew from Hendek Street
through Galata Tower
along the two sides of Rue de Pera which
connects Tünel to Taksim as a major axis,
rich apartment and business blocks, as well Figure 8. US Embassy’s Building as department stores have been erected. In the middle of the 19th century, the At the beginning of the 20th century, a original fabric of Galata and Pera, which new social and architectural landscape has was essentially of timber, had been been formed in Galata consisting of mainly gradually replaced by masonry structure, banks, particularly the Ottoman Bank however, this change over to masonry has building designed by Alexander Vallaury, progressed rather slowly in spite of the fire offices placed in tall masonry hans along disasters and its mandatory planning rules. especially Voyvoda Avenue and Kemeraltı Pera lived through one of its largest fire Avenue and their environs. From Voyvoda disasters in 1870. Starting around Taksim Avenue towards Galata Tower, many grand area, the fire destroyed a lot of timber and structures such as churches, schools and masonry houses, and from this date hospitals have been lined up. onwards, wide vacant plots of land were In Pera, especially along the main created ready for important physical avenues, buildings with ground floor shops transformations in the area between Taksim and department stores are present. The and Galatasaray. After the 1870 fire, many famous shopping arcades of Rue de Pera, masonry apartment blocks which are still such as European Passage, Hacopulo standing have been constructed in Pera, and
6 Galata and Pera
Passage, Elhamra Passage, etc. should be important decreases for the city. The mentioned in this connection. Theatres and amplification process of the historical music halls, as well as famous fashion Kemeraltı Street and the adjustments in houses are also located here. During these Karaköy Square caused the loss of many years, when the rapid inflow of foreign historical monuments. capital had been indirectly transfered to the The area today despite the losses, construction sector, an activism of design together with the preserved historical and construction effectiveness by architects pattern, monuments with the business of Istanbul and of European origin can be centers belonging to the middle upper observed. Many a magnificent and wealth level, and the trading side made of monumental structure displaying a rich traditional producers and sellers covers an stylistic variety ranging from Classical to important historical area of Istanbul. Neo-Gothic, from Neo-Ottoman to Art Voyvoda /Bankalar Street is present with all Nouveau have risen along Rue de Pera and its majestic architecture. The coastal side is its side streets. Following the mini-subway one of the vivid axles of sea and road constructed and opened to service in 1875 transportation. and known as Tünel, horse-trams have In Pera until the last quarter of the 20th started to run to Galata in 1896, while century there were not sudden remarkable electric trams have come into service in changes. However the varied population 1914, thereby making the region one of structure of İstiklal Street area was changed Istanbul`s most advantageous section of the after the collective pillage acts in 6-7 city from the point of view of public September toward the Greek orthodox transport for many years. population in Pera, explained by the actions Istanbul with the declaration of Republic, against the Turkish population in Cyprus. which lost its capital city status, lived In the years when İstiklal Street was not certain restrictions in terms of urban under protection it is seen that the singular functions. In the beginning Galata area was buildings were demolished and renewed. not affected by this situation. The area The radical change was limited with the could sustain its aspect as a trading and construction of Odakule made by the business center. However the start of re- Industrial Chamber of İstanbul, destroying modernization attempts with insufficient the architectural pattern of the street. To this planning projects after the World War II, situation the multy storey business center gave rise to serious changes. The built in the building land of the burnt application studies during the 1955-60s not İstanbul City Theatre is also added. only changed the urban architectural pattern The amplification of Tarlabaşı Street, of the city but also serious changes occurred which connects Taksim/historical peninsula in the social and cultural structure of the extended in the west border of Galata –Pera city. The varied population structure of the region turned into a boulevard was a radical area started to become homogeneous slowly action. The mention change affected very in the beginning and rapidly after the 6-7 much the architectural and cultural September events. The trading activities dimension of the area. shifted towards the new developed northern The area after many attempts in 1993 areas and banking sector that was based was declared to be a preserved urban area towards the north side of Maslak were and Istiklal Street became a pedestrian mall
7 Afife Batur area. Today this place is considered to be The wrong restoration applications and the the center of culture and entertainment. The expected earthquake are among the dangers similar preservation status is applied for that could change / destroy the historical Galata Tower and for its surround. structure of the area.
Galata and Pera 2 Earthquakes: Short Notes
İstanbul is within the area of influence of it is affected by earthquakes only at the the 175 km long fault line stretching along level of the collapse of its low quality the Bay of İzmit from Adapazarı to Çatalca, buildings and by small cracks occuring in forming an extension of the Northern some of its buildings. Anatolian Fault (NAF). The city has been It is known that from among the high affected more or less continually from magnitude earthquakes, the region had only innumerable earthquakes adding up to a been affected by the one that occured in long list throughout the history. The 1509. During this one, the Galata Tower scientific investigations indicate that there had been damaged and it has beed recorded is a 60 % chance within the next 30 years that the upper portion of the Tower built at for this fault linet o produce a high the time of the Genovese rule had collapsed. magmitude earthquake, although it is not Consequently, the Galata Tower has an yet known whether the fault will break at Ottoman Period addition on top of its one time, or in two sequences. existing three floors. Within Istanbul’s geography, which is The earthquake of 10 July, 1894, had composed of three peninsulas, the been experienced almost without any earthquakes have different areas of damage at Galata-Beyoğlu region. There influence. It could roughy be said that the were only minor damages such as breakages southern shores of the Historic Peninsula of window glass, failing of plaster and and the Asian side (Kadıköy) fall within the gypsum, and slippages of cornice stones. epicentre of the earthquakes, while the other On the other hand, the earthquake of regions are affected by them less severely. 1894, about which maximum amount of The most sensitive areas are the ancient axis information is available, provides within the Historic Peninsula called ‘via interesting observations on social triomphali’ that extends today from Hagia psychology and post-earthquake behviorial Sophia to Beyazit (or Forum Tauri), and the symptoms. Surprising details are recorded coastal strip that begins from kumkapı. in daily newspapers and official reports The Peninsula of Galata has the most following the earthquake. fortunate geographic location from the point The earthquake had caused a panic in the of view of earthquakes, probably due to its city difficult to imagine. It is, of course, geological formation. Its name is generally natural that all earthquakes of high not givn within the earthquake damage magnitude may cause panic. Although the records. In addition to its later occupation, earthquake of 10 July, 1894, had affected
8 Galata and Pera various regions of İstanbul in a different applied to cholera patients, in other words, a manner, mass panic had been experienced state of extraordinary disaster measures at the same level of intensity everywhere. were put into effect. There were a large A matter of fact, the hysteria was lauder at number of patients in the gardens of the low damged areas, such as Beyoğlu, Military Medical Faculty, and the famous according to the observations of the medical professors of the day, together with journalists. It is doubtless very their senior students, had started to provide understandable that the residents of the the necessary medical intervantions. Historic Peninsula, or Yeşilköy, and even The newspapers had been assisted to the Princes’ Islands, where the damage was start their normal publishing schedules on very high, to spend the night in the street, 13 July. however, the fact that the residents of Pera Many documents relating to these post- or Şişli regions had chosen to live out in the earthquake activities exist at the Prime open for days, and to occupy the Municipal Ministry Archives, for example: Parks an deven cemeteries at Taksim and “Y.MTV 99.56” registration numbered Tepebaşı, or by building shanty structures and “6 Muharrem Hicri 1312/10 July 1894” and sheds away from their sound buildings, dated report by the Prefectue of the City causing Beyoğlu, for example, to turn into a informs us about the open areas where the deserted town, was a phenomenon of social public from Galata-Beyoğlu region had pschology of pathalogical dimensions. As taken refuge, as well as the first aid the incident had begun to threaten the activities providing bread, drinking water public health, the authorities had to issue and illumination facilities to them. This is a restricting orders for the people to return to most critical document underlying the their homes. importance of identifying open areas of The earthquake of 1894 is at the same refuge for victims on the first day of the time an interesting case study from the earthquake. point of view of post-disaster activities. Galata-Beyoğlu region had experienced The lack of serious damage at the Palace the earthquake of 17 August 1999 with its of the Grand Vizier, at the Prefecture of the epicentre at İzmit without any damage. The City, and of course, at the Royal Palace had panic border had narrowed down due to the made it possible to carry out these activities. fact that the southern and coastal areas were An Official Decree which was immediately in large scale are business districts and the issued had ordered public servants to be on earthquake occurred at 3:00 a.m. at night. duty to carry out mitigation works at all The inhabitants of the northern section of structures in accordance with expert reports. the Peninsula, in this instance, took refuge All government offices would be kept open. at the Taksim Gezi Park. The day after the earthquake a coordination It could be assumed that Galata shall council was established under the overcome the probable next earthquake chairmanship of the Prefect Rıdvan Paşa, with minor damages once again. which immediately had embarked on damge There are a lot of buildings in the region assessment studis, provision of bread and that qualify as cultural assets. Besides the drinking water, etc. The wounded were religious and the official edifices, the region going to be treated at the Municipal possesses a large stock of civil architecture, hospitals in accordance with the system as well as monumental examples of
9 Afife Batur economic history. Majority of these References for Galata and Pera 2 buildings are assumed to possess the advanced construction techniques of the [1] Alkan, M.Ö., 1999, “Toplumsal ve 19th century. Therefore, significant loses Siyasal Açıdan 1894 İstanbul should not be expected in the monumental Depremi”, Toplumsal Tarih, No. 70, buildings as long as the magnitude of the Istanbul, pp. 11-17. earthquake would not be too high. [2] Batur,A, Tanyeli,G., 1993, “1894 Nevertheless, the likelihood of an Depremi ve İstanbul'un Tarihi earthquake panic need not be ruled out. Yapılarındaki Hasar Üzerine Bir Especially, during the working hours of the Örnekleme Çalışması: Ayasofya ve day, the panic risk is higher. Furthermore, Kapalıçarşı”, 2.Ulusal Deprem Galata’s open areas for first hand refuge Mühendisliği Konferansı, 10-13 Mart purposes are seriously insufficient. Narrow 1993, Istanbul, pp. 244-258. street fabric, dense building and undulating [3] Batur, A., 1994, “Bir Depremin topography are among the known risk Yüzyıl Dönümü” Istanbul, No. 4, pp. factors. The open courtyards of the 24-32. mosques and the churches in the region are [4] Cezar, M., 1963, Osmanlı Devrinde also very limited. İstanbul Yapılarında Tahribat Yapan The existing car park area of historic Yangınlar ve Tabii Afetler, Istanbul p. Tophane and the coastal strip of Perşembe 68. Bazaar, as well as the courtyards of [5] Finkel, C.F, Ambraseys, N.N., 1997, mosques and churches, in spite of their “The Marmara Sea Earthquake of 10 insufficiency, could be considered as the July 1894 and its Effect on Historic likely refuge and first aid centers. Buildings”, Anatolia Moderna, VII, pp. 49-58. [6] Genç, M., Mazak, M., 2000, İstanbul Acknowledgement Depremleri, Fotograf ve Belgelerde 1894 Depremi, İGDAŞ Kültürel Yay., I am very thankful to Professor Gunhan Istanbul. Danışman for translating the manuscript [7] Karakışla, Y.S., 1999, ”Arşivden Bir called as “A Short History, Urban Belge: 1894 Depreminde Ölenlerin Development, Architecture And Today.“ Ailelerine Yardım”, Toplumsal Tarih, No. 71, İstanbul, pp. 29-31. [8] Köker. O., 1999, “Sansüre Uğramış References for Galata and Pera 1 Bir Deprem”, Toplumsal Tarih, No. 69, İstanbul, pp. 4-7. [1] Akın, N., 1998, 19. Yüzyılın İkinci [9] Öztin, F., 1994, 10 Temmuz 1894 Yarısında GALATA VE PERA, Istanbul. İstanbul Depremi, Ankara. [2] Eyice, S., ;“Galata / Bizans Dönemi”, [10] Pamukciyan, K., 1994, “Depremler”, DBIA, Vol. 3, pp. 348-349. DBİA, C.3, İstanbul, pp.34-35. [3] İnalcık, H., “Galata / Osmanlı Dönemi”, DBIA, Vol.3, pp. 349-354. [4] İnalcık, H., “Günümüzde Galata” DBIA, Vol.3, pp. 354-356.
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