SEPTEMBER 2003

Jeff Hatfield starts the down-climb to the rap station on the back of Stripe Rock, in City of Rocks National Reserve, Idaho. Jeff and Susan spent a few days here during their 4-week summer road trip. Photo by Susan Hatfield. The Arizona Club Meetings: The AMC normally meets the 4th Mon. Board of Directors: each month (Nov.& Dec. meetings are usually the President ...... Bruce McHenry .... 602-952-1379 3rd Mon.) at 7:00 pm at: Vice-President ...... Jutta Ulrich ...... 602-234-3579 Los Olivos Senior Center Secretary ...... John Keedy ...... 623-412-1452 2802 E. Devonshire Ave. Treasurer ...... Tim Ward ...... 602-212-1929 Phoenix, AZ Director 2-year ...... Kathy Granger ...... 602-942-1673 (28th St. just north of Indian School Rd.) Director 2-year ...... Rich Kocher ...... 480-966-5568 Board Meetings: Board meetings are open to all Director 1-year ...... Dave Larimer ...... 480-425-9689 members and are held two Mondays prior to the Director 1-year ...... Scott Hoffman ...... 623-580-8909 Club meeting at Los Olivos Center. Past President ...... Erik Filsinger ...... 480-314-1089 Dues: Dues cover January through December. A single membership is $25.00 per year: $30.00 for a Committees: family. Those joining after June 30 pay $13 or Archivist ...... Jef Sloat ...... 602-316-1899 $15. Members joining after October 31 who pay Classification ...... David Larimer ...... 480-425-9689 for a full year will have dues credited through the end of the following year. Dues must be sent to: Elections ...... Don Thomas ...... 480-892-9513 AMC Membership Committee Equipment Rental ...... Tom Burmer ...... 480-354-1392 6519 W. Aire Libre Ave. Email ...... Jeff Hatfield ...... 480-783-8779 Glendale, AZ 85306 Land Advocacy ...... Erik Filsinger ...... 480-314-1089 Schools: The AMC conducts several rock Librarian ...... Richard Kocher ..... 480-966-5568 , mountaineering and other outdoor skills Membership ...... Rogil Schroeter ..... 623-512-8465 schools each year. Browse the AMC website or Mountaineering ...... Erik Filsinger ...... 480-314-1089 email [email protected] for Newsletter ...... Wally Vegors ...... 602-246-9341 information on schedules and classes. NL Distribution ...... (vacant) For More Information: Outings ...... Monica Miller ...... 623-362-0456 Call (623) 878-2485 Programs ...... Steven Tillery ...... 480-496-7339 Email [email protected] Training & Schools .... Wayne Schroeter ... 602-402-1631 [email protected] Basic Class ...... Sally Larimer ...... 480-425-9689 [email protected] Anchors Class ...... Tom Conner ...... 480-897-7623 Website www.azmountaineeringclub.org Lead Class ...... Mick Strole ...... 520-586-3335 Mail Arizona Mountaineering Club T-shirts ...... Sally Larimer ...... 480-425-9689 4340 E. Indian School Rd., Ste 21-164 WebSite ...... Kirra Phoenix, AZ 85018 ………………[email protected]

The AMC Access Committee: The Committee works by itself and with the national Access Fund to maintain public access to climbing areas. If you know of areas that are threatened with closures or climbing restrictions, please notify the Access Fund representative Jutta Ulrich at (602) 234-3579. The Access Fund: This is a national, non-profit, climber's organization that works to maintain access to climbing areas nationwide. Climbers can join The Access Fund by mailing an annual, tax-deductible donation of $20 or more to: The Access Fund, P.O. Box 17010, Boulder, CO 80308, or giving it to the AMC Club Treasurer to be sent to The Access Fund in your name. A donation of $20 or more is needed to receive Vertical Times, The Access Fund newsletter. One can also join electronically at www.accessfund.org/join.html This Month in the AMC

1 ..... Birthdays in September 2 ..... Board Meeting Minutes, New Members 3 ..... Discount Directory; Treasurer’s Report; Rental Equipment Grand Canyon 4 ..... Program Over-the-Rim Cleanup 5 ..... Members’ Page; Adopt-a-Crag Day 6 ..... Grand Canyon Over-the-Rim Cleanup Oct. 4 7 ..... Lead School (page 6) 8 ..... (Ad) AZ on the Rocks Climbing Gym 9 ..... (Ad) Arizona Shack 10 ... 4 Weeks on the Road, by Jeff Hatfield 13 ... Tracing Alpine History on Lizard Head, by Erik Filsinger Lead School 15 ... Outings (Billboard); Indian Creek Outing Sep. 23 16 ... Outings; Outing Leader list. (page 7)

Newsletter The Arizona Mountaineer is published monthly Basic School by the AMC. Members are encouraged to submit articles and photos about their climbing- or mountain- Oct. 14 eering-related activities. Submit items for publication (subject to approval) to AMC Editor, 6151 N. 8th Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85013 or through email to [email protected]. Prints are Library preferred over slides. Digital photos should preferably You must be an AMC member; i. e., your name be in JPG format and at least 300 dpi. Articles can be must be on the most current membership list. in any standard word processing format. For more The circulation period is one month. Materials info call the editor at (602) 246-9341. are due at the next general club meeting. The overdue Advertising in the Arizona Mountaineer is fine is $2 per title per month. Please contact the accepted, subject to approval, at the following rates. librarian if unable to return your books and tapes. Personal ads are free to members. Business ads are The circulation limit is three titles per person. $5.00 for a business card, $10.00 for half page, One of these may be a videotape, for which a $50 $20.00 for full page, and $25.00 for inserts. deposit is required. Each guidebook requires a $25 October Deadline: 12 September 2003 deposit. September Birthdays Melissa Ewing 1, Bruce McHenry 2, James Kistler 4, Ethan Morton 4, Glen Schroering 4, Joe Manceau 5, Scott Long 6, Ray Schmal 6, Steve Wieczorek 7, Monica Guzman 8, Faye Cole 9, Tom Conner 10, Jennifer Baudais 11, Terri Gay 12, Rita Lake 12, Larry Reinmuth 14, Elizabeth Serraglio 14, Jan Harding 15, Scott Kirchhofer 15, Jef Sloat 15, Tim Ward 19, Peter Keast 20, Chris Arneson 21, Eric Babich 21, Robert Shea 22, Jay Stutzman 22, Maryann McKessy 24, Marc Mousseux 26, Jerzy Bergander 27, Marilyn Geninatti 28, Tim Schneider 28, Lungi Niemczyk 29, Tanja Woyke 29

The Arizona Mountaineer—1 Minutes of the AMC Board Meeting: August 11, 2003

Board Members Present: Filsinger, Hoffman, Keedy, V. New Business Larimer, McHenry, Ulrich, Ward A. REI Club Day—we have received an invitation Committee Heads Present: Miller, W. Schroeter to participate in the REI Club day, Saturday, Sept Members Present: Vollmer 20. McHenry will investigate further and convene an electronic meeting to approve/disapprove this I. Meeting called to order at 7 pm. activity. B. 2004 Budget submissions are due to McHenry by II. Minutes of July Board Meeting approved as September 15. published C. Outings Schedule—The Board discussed the monthly outing solicitation email. D. Vollmer presented proposed design for Grand Can- III. Treasurers Report approved as submitted. yon tee shirts and requested approval to proceed

with purchase of either 60 or 100 tee shirts. Ap- IV. Old Business: proved for 60 tee shirts. Also approved purchase of A. Liability Insurance—McHenry received a quote supplies for a cookout as part of the Grand Canyon from Colorado Western Insurance Company of clean-up. $1255.70 per year. This policy will not come under E. Vollmer presented a motion concerning a proposed the Arizona Guaranty Fund and contains the in- 40th AMC Anniversary Celebration activity. No sured vs. insured exclusion. Motion made, sec- action taken. onded and carried to authorize McHenry to pur-

chase this policy. VI. Committee Reports B. Discussion on how to mediate the insured vs. in- sured exclusion: A. Larimer presented a Classification Committee up- date on several candidates for approval as Outing i. Explore Umbrella Policy subsidy for Leaders. Leaders. Discussion was held on the current classi- ii. Explore separate Outing Leader Organization. fication process and receiving feedback on candi- iii. Explore subsidizing Lead Instructor Umbrella dates from existing Outing Leaders. Board agreed policy at a greater amount than Leaders. that all current Outing Leaders should be requested C. Newsletter Distribution—W. Schroeter is handling to provide feedback on candidates within a 30-day the publication. Keedy will handle the distribution time frame from the request. There was also dis- this month. cussion on having candidates write summaries of D. Documents on Club Web Site their apprentice outings and the need to update and i. After lengthy discussion, motion made and clarify the Outing Leader approval process. seconded to include the AMC Bylaws, AMC Standing Rules and Membership Application/ Waiver in the public area of the AMC Web Site. Motion carried. ii. Motion made to include all AMC Documents in New Members the public area of the AMC Web Site. Motion was withdrawn without a second. Melody Moses iii. McHenry suggested we review all our AMC Colin Chapman Kim Petersen Documents and insure their accuracy and rele- Kenneth Dammen Rene Rodriguez vance. An inventory list of documents will be Chuck Flint Kevin Rytter prepared to review at the next Board meeting. Sue Iverson Ethan Morton Larry Tracy

2—The Arizona Mountaineer Discount Directory Treasurer’s Report

The following merchants currently offer a discount to Statement of Operations 01/01/03 Thru 08/11/03 AMC members: Category Description Amount Arizona Hiking Shack—11645 N. Cave Creek Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85020, (602) 944-7723. Show your INCOME AMC membership card and get a 15% discount. Advertising ...... 320.00 Dues ...... 5,281.00 Interest ...... 19.28 Library fines ...... 0.00 Rental Equipment Merchandise (Tee Shirts & Etc) ...... 648.00 EQUIPMENT Lb-Oz Qty Cost/Wk Mountaineering Schools ...... 400.00 Tents: Program Income ...... 10.00 4-season 2-3 man ...... 7-6 ...... 1 ...... 10.00 Rental Income (incl ) ...... 223.00 4-season 2 man ...... 6-0 ...... 1 ...... 6.00 Training ...... 8,111.00 3-season 2 man ...... 5-0 ...... 3 ...... 5.00 ————————–— 4-season 1 man bivy ...... 1-15 ...... 1 ...... 7.00 TOTAL INCOME 15,252.28 Sherpa ...... 8 ...... 5.00 ————————–— MSR Alpine snowshoes ...... 15.00 Ski poles (var. sizes) ...... 4 ...... 0.50 EXPENSES Ice ...... 15.00 Access Committee ...... 137.41 Snow Crampons (sizes 6-14) ...... 10 ...... 2.00 Administration ...... 1,252.51 In-step crampons ...... 1 ...... 2.00 Contest ...... 300.00 Gaitors (Goretex) ...... 2 pr ...... 2.00 Capital Exp .(mtnrg) ...... 539.20 Ice axes (70-90 cm) ...... 12 ...... 2.00 Classification ...... 475.00 Snow shovel ...... 1-10 ...... 2 ...... 5.00 Equipment Maint ...... 125.00 Snow pickets;flukes ...... 10 @ ..... 5.00 Insurance ...... 956.01 MSR Multifuel Stove ...... 1 ...... 3.00 Library ...... 0.00 Yates Big Dudes .#6, #7 ...... 5.00 Merchandise Exp ...... 710.10 Haul bag ...... 1 ...... 10.00 Mountaineering ...... 72.85 PortaLedge ...... 1 ...... 50.00 Newsletter ...... 2,270.41 Jumars ...... 3 ...... 5.00 Outings ...... 80.78 Climbing shoes ...... Various sizes ...Call Programs ...... 1,762.09 Service/Bank Charge ...... 51.57 Equipment Rental Guideline: Your name must be on Training ...... 5,839.96 the most current membership list. Deposit required; Uncategorized ...... 0.00 varies by item; generally $20-$50. The two- ————————–— personal-checks system works best. Advance TOTAL EXPENSES ...... 13,856.88 reservation suggested. If not using the reserved ————————–— equipment, please call and cancel. Call Linda Locke at (602) 997-4235 for shoes. For everything else, call OVERALL FOR YEAR TO DATE ...... 1395.40 Tom Burmer (480) 354-1392. ACCOUNT BALANCES (05/09/03)

CD Account ...... 5,220.24 Savings ...... 1,668.32 Checking ...... 11,586.34

TOTAL CASH ASSETS ...... $18,474.90

OTHER ASSETS (Club gear mainly) .... 7,031.00

OVERALL TOTAL ...... 25,505.90

The Arizona Mountaineer—3

4—The Arizona Mountaineer Member Page Adopt-a-Crag Day Get Involved with AMC Trail Work—Community Service • Go on an Outing—always great fun climbing and For the annual Adopt-a-Crag Event sponsored by friends the ACCESS Fund, the AMC and the local REI stores • Fold and Staple Newsletters at members meet- will put some sweat equity into maintaining one of our ing—meet other members and help with a task favorite local climbing, hiking and bouldering areas: that is vital to our club Echo Canyon on Camelback Mountain. • Write an Article for the Newsletter—everyone has a climbing story to tell, share yours When? Saturday, Sept. 6, 6:30 – 11:30 am • Sign up for Trail Work on Adopt-a-Crag day, Where? Echo Canyon, Camelback Mountain, trail- head / Ramada (north side of mountain, Mac- September 6 Donald Road east of 44th St.) • th Help out with the AMC 40 Anniversary Celebra- What? Redefine trails and close spider trails leading tion in 2004—your ideas and efforts are wanted to climbing and bouldering areas The Fall Calendar is filling fast. Lots of outings Coordinators: and hikes, Lead, Basic, and Anchors schools, Adopt-a- Kathi Reichert, City Park Manager for Echo Crag day, the Grand Canyon clean-up, Joshua Tree— Canyon lots of exciting things to do. Sign up—get involved— Joseph Peck, REI Tempe help out—and have fun!! Jutta Ulrich, AMC About 25-35 volunteers are needed. REI will also Budget Call 2004! bring helpers as will the ASU Environmental The board is in the process of planning the 2004 Law Society. The city will provide all tools club budget. If you have any requests or suggestions, and guidance for the project; REI will provide please pass them on to the appropriate Committee Gatorade and water bottles for all volunteers. Chairperson or a Board member. It’s your club, speak ACCESS will provide CLIF bars. up on what you think is important. Bring: Water and snack, hat and work gloves, long pants and sturdy shoes recommended Bruce McHenry Meet: at 44th St./Camelback parking lot at 6:20 (NE [email protected] corner) to CARPOOL and/or use the over- flow parking lot west of the entrance: from Camelback go north on 44th Street, just as the To the AMC Membership: road curves to the right (east) there is a cul- AMC’er James D. Holloway (not James P. Holloway, de-sac on the north side of the road. Walk to a.k.a. “JP”), has recently undergone tests in prepara- the trailhead is 10 min. tion for surgery to remove a brain tumor that has been Sign-up: We need to know who is coming, we need at causing seizures. James is listed on the website below, least 20 people but no more than 30-35 total. where friends and relatives can visit him online and Please call Liz Serraglio and leave your name encourage him through this difficult time. and a phone number and whether you'll meet the group for carpooling at 44th/Camelback: Website: www.visitingours.com (480) 704-1022. Click “Visit” Patient Name: James Holloway Visitor’s Pin: V96813 Roommate wanted Click “Agree to Terms/Enter” to visit. James could use financial help. Donations are being $400/ month 1/2 utilities 42nd St and Union Hills. accepted at James D. Holloway Benefit Great neighborhood, 4 blocks from 51 access. Contact Account; Bank of America; Account # 004655593434; Scott @ (602) 821-9536. Bank Routing # 122101706.

The Arizona Mountaineer—5 15th Annual Grand Canyon Over-the-Rim Cleanup

Time again for the annual Grand Canyon Over- Friday, Oct 3: Camp at the group site The-Rim Cleanup! For those new to this event, we Saturday, Oct 4: have been rappelling over the side of the South Rim’s 8:00 am—mandatory meeting at Mather Point (we steep limestone cliffs for 14 years, searching for trash will sign waivers) deposited by tourists and wind. We have scoured the 9:00 am—disperse to cleanup areas slopes below Mather Point and spruced up the view 4:00 pm—wrap up, shower, get ready for barbecue from the ice cream store at Bright Angel Lodge (Will 5:00 pm—meet at Shoshone Point, caravan from work for ice cream!). We have appeared in numerous Sunday, Oct 5: home movies we have never seen and entertained 9:00 am—meet at parking lot by railroad station for scores of innocents who ask, “Did you climb all the climbing outing (helmets required) way from the bottom?” (We always answer, “Yes!”) 3:00 pm—head back to Phoenix Along the way, we have maintained a perfect safety record, partied at pristine Shoshone Point, and climbed Entrance to the Park: If you arrive at the entrance the next day in the Kaibab limestone amphitheaters station when it is open, tell the Ranger on duty that below the Rim. Come out and join us again this year. you are with the AMC and are here for the "Over-the- The Cleanup is scheduled for Oct. 4. You must be Rim Cleanup” (these are the magic words). They a Club member trained in the proper rappel technique should let you in without paying the normal $20.00 and in prusiking to go over the side; non-members can entrance fee (although you should feel free to pay if help at the top. You must call Scott Hoffman to sign you want, since the money collected at the entrance up (623) 580-8909. station does go directly to the park's upkeep). Show this newsletter at the entrance station. Technique seminar and planning meeting: Camping: The Park Service will provide two group We will be holding a technique seminar at 6:00 campsites for 100 people but only four cars on Oct 3-4 pm, Tuesday, Sep 30, at Dreamy Draw Park. It is man- at Mather Campground. The campsite number on the datory for anyone who has not participated in the “Sage Loop” is assigned on arrival, but the number cleanup before, and old-timers are welcome to come should be listed on the side of the entrance kiosk by for a refresher. We won't be teaching any of these the time you get there. The vehicles bringing the club techniques on-site at the Canyon. Please bring all the equipment will be the two vehicles to park at the site, technical equipment listed below to the seminar. so that we can monitor the ropes and other Club gear. All other vehicles must park at Babbitt's General Store, Personal equipment needed for the Cleanup: about 1/4 mile from the campsite. While inconvenient, • Helmet—mandatory this is the Park Service campsite policy and they do • Gloves—mandatory monitor the campsites. The main concern is that they • Hiking boots (no sandals or open-toed need the fire trucks to be able to get through the camp- shoes)—mandatory ground. If you camp in your vehicle, you will need to • 3 prusiks (4',6',10') camp outside the park or get a private campsite by • 1 calling 1-800-365-2267 (up to 5 months in advance • 1 rappel device and $12; there are 2 vehicles allowed at each private • 3 locking (harness biners) campsite, so you may want to pool with others). Other • 1 5-foot or 6-foot tied sling (depending on campsite rules are: no ground fires (use the grills) and arm length) quiet hours between 10 pm and 6 am. • Facilities at the campground include showers 2 20' slings and 2 lockers (for anchors) (bring quarters) and bathrooms. Hot breakfasts Satur- • 6 extra regular biners for fire hose • day morning are available at Yavapai Lodge at the Hat with tie-down, sunscreen, lip balm Babbitt’s parking lot. • Water & lunch (or go to a restaurant) Directions: Drive north on State 64 into Grand Can- • Long pants, long-sleeved shirt yon National Park. Stay on the main road until you see • Knee pads—optional ($6 at Home Depot, $5 the sign for Mather Campground directing you to the volleyball pads at Sports Authority; these are left (south). Follow the signs to the campground kiosk. useful for and lead school, also) On your right will be the showers. Look on the camp- • Whistle—optional (just in case) ground kiosk for a list of assigned sites. Follow the Club equipment provided the day of the Cleanup: map on the kiosk. Park at the assigned campsite and • 2 pieces of fire hose unload, set up your tent, etc. Then drive back out to the • 2 short prusiks kiosk and back to the parking lot at Babbitt’s General • 1 rope bag Schedule: (Continued on page 7) 6—The Arizona Mountaineer School

This is an advanced climbing class. Even if you different colors don’t plan on leading, you will learn much about the • 2 10' slings (untied length), preferably dynamics of climbing, and it will make you a safer different colors climber. Protecting a climb is a different skill from • pick climbing itself. We will talk about the dynamics of • with biners—at least 5 lead falls, how to prepare for a climb, the differences • All pro that you own, which may include between single- and multi-pitch, and the differ- cams, hexes, wired nuts, Tri-cams, etc. ences between clipping bolts and placing natural pro. • Consider combining with another person to There will be no “true” lead climbs during the class, have enough gear but we will provide simulated leading exercises. 4. Hiking boots or shoes with stiff soles for Satur- Class curriculum: day, climbing shoes for Sunday Tue—Introduction, the lead fall, equipment 5. Optional: kneepads for Saturday ($3–6 at Home Wed—Equipment (continued); the process and tech- Depot, $5 volleyball pads at sporting goods niques of leading stores) Thu—Multi-pitch techniques, the descent, leader res- For more information: Visit the AMC website at cue, aid climbing www.AzMountaineeringClub.org. Sat—Natural pro placement (Prescott) Sun—Leading on bolts (Prescott or Scottsdale) Attention Lead School Instructors: Class schedule: We will not be having an instructor meeting prior to Sep 23, Tuesday, 6:30 pm–9:30 pm, *Dreamy Draw this lead school due to lack of time. Come on out and Sep 24, Wednesday, 6:30 pm–9:30 pm, Dreamy Draw help, though; we plan on having a good time as usual. Sep 25, Thursday, 6:30 pm–9:30 pm, Dreamy Draw Sep 27, Saturday, 9:00 am–5:00 pm , Prescott Sep 28, Sunday, 9:00 am–5:00 pm, Prescott *To get to Dreamy Draw Park take SR 51 (Piestewa Peak Parkway) to Northern and turn east. This dead- Grand Canyon Cleanup ends at the Park. We will be at the big ramada next to the parking lot. Directions to the other locations will (Cont. from page 6) be given out then. Experience required: Preferably, AMC Basic Store. Hike back to the campsite the same way, on the School and AMC Anchors School or equivalent ex- asphalt. Barbecue at Shoshone Point: Shoshone Point is perience. This includes knowing how to tie a variety of about 2.3 miles east of the intersection of State Hwy knots, belay, rappel, prusik and set anchors. 64 and the East Rim Road that goes to Desert Cost: $75 plus membership ($13) if not already a Watchtower. We have reserved it for Saturday member. Register by sending a check payable to AMC evening. There is a 270-degree view of the Canyon, a Lead School to 1654 W. Boston St, Chandler, AZ, great sunset, and a small Anasazi granary. The AMC 85224. No credit cards accepted. (Please note: the reg- will provide charcoal and lighter fluid. There are two istration fee is fully refundable if you cancel.) Call huge grills and several picnic tables. Bring your own Nancy Birdwell at 480-821-1932 or email dead meat or other grilling material. Extra barbecue tools (tongs, forks, spatulas) are always welcome [email protected] for more (keep track of them, and maybe mark them). We will information. The class limit is 30. have a campfire. The last people around the fire must Equipment required for the class: have enough water to put the fire dead out (ask The following will not be needed the first night. You around—there is a lot of excess water). Also, someone may want to listen to the gear lectures before making in the last car out should lock the gate. purchases. Car-pooling: Since many participants will be at the 1. All climbing gear (harness, prusiks, biners, etc.) Tuesday seminar, this is the best place to arrange car- 2. Helmet—mandatory for all on-rock sessions pooling. 3. Specifically needed: Call me at (623) 580-8909 to tell me you are coming. - Scott Hoffman • 2 20' slings (untied length), preferably

The Arizona Mountaineer—7 8—The Arizona Mountaineer The Arizona Mountaineer—9 4 Weeks on the Road by Jeff Hatfield

“Hey Hatfield… Wake up!! You are going on a We knew from the start where we wanted to go: CLIMBING ROAD TRIP!! To call it anything else everywhere. The trick though, was to come up with a would be disrespectful. You’ll get plenty of hiking and reasonable list of places. Initial plans had us visiting birding in on your way to the crags.” That was Mick relatives in the Midwest and climbing as far east as the Strole, upon learning that the scope of the 4-week road Gunks, but in the end we wisely chose to limit our- trip Susan and I were planning had changed. Origi- selves to a tour of the West. Still, the West is a big nally conceived as a climbing road trip, it had become place, so our list was pretty big. I thought four weeks more accurately an all-things-in-the-course-of-one- would be plenty of time to see everything, but once we vacation road trip. Besides climbing, we had added started planning in earnest, we realized that we were hiking, birding, and general sightseeing to the mix. We being overly optimistic. As a sanity check, we sent a were in agreement on the most important goal of the sample itinerary to Mick & Sherrie and Dave & Sally trip, though: It didn’t matter what we were doing as (both couples are veterans of extended trips), and got long as we were having fun. Well… we had a blast! It back the obvious response: We were trying to do too was the best trip we’ve ever been on. much. As it stood, we would constantly be on the “Road Trip”… No two words sound quite so good move, without the luxury of staying in one place when you’re tired of your job and looking for a way to longer if we liked it, or heading off early to the next deal with the heat of another Arizona summer. When I place if the weather turned bad. So after eliminating hear “road trip” spoken in the context of , some destinations we could live without (to Susan’s it conjures up images of diehard men and women, their chagrin, the Pacific Ocean was now out), and changing tanned bodies tight and chiseled, cranking endless diffi- the number of days we’d like to spend at other loca- cult routes, climbing late into the day, staggering back tions, we came up with our trip: A counter-clockwise to camp exhausted. Then they rise the next morning and loop through Colorado, South Dakota, Wyoming, do it all over again, eschewing proper sleep, nutrition, Idaho, and California. One of the great things about and personal hygiene. That sounds good, and makes for this trip was that Susan had never visited any of these great reading in the climbing rags, but for the Hatfields places, and it had been upwards of twenty years since that definition wouldn’t exactly ring true. After all, I I’d been to most of them. We were understandably ex- have a desk job, which doesn’t do much for that tight cited. Along the way, if everything went as planned, and chiseled look. (More like white and fizzled, really). we would spend time hiking in Rocky Mountain Na- And let’s face it, I don’t climb enough to be able to lead tional Park; climbing in the Black Hills of South Da- many of those classics I always read about that require kota; hiking in Yellowstone and Grand Teton National me to have actual technique on the rock. As for climb- Parks; climbing at City of Rocks, Idaho and Lover’s ing late into the day: I’d much rather knock off by mid- Leap, California; and hiking and climbing in Yosemite afternoon and relax in the shade with a cold beer and a National Park. good book. And then there’s the issue of personal hy- The weeks leading up to the trip involved a steady giene. No one enjoys that dirtbag look (and smell) when stream of planning and preparation as we attempted to they have to share a confined sleeping space for a get everything in order. There is a lot involved when month. On our trip, we would be taking showers. No, you’re going to be away for a month. (I’ll spare you our definition of “road trip” would definitely be differ- most of the details... You’re welcome). We purchased a ent. number of things for this trip that we’d been wanting for Our trip plan started coming together towards the a while but had never got around to buying: a digital end of April, a relatively late date considering we camera, a video camera, a bulk propane tank, a new would end up hitting the road in June. After talking on stove, an extra air mattress, a #4.5 (of course and off the past couple of years about how great it we need a new cam, dear). We traded in the Jeep for a would be to escape the grind for an extended vacation, Suburban. (We used Mick and Sherrie’s method and put we found ourselves in a position where that idea had an air mattress in the back instead of pitching a tent). become a real possibility. Susan would complete her We made lists, bought food, packed climbing gear and first semester as a third- teacher in mid-June and clothes, set up all of our bills on automatic payments. would have four weeks off before the start of the next We bought guidebooks and researched climbing areas. semester. My company was going through a changing- We made camping reservations for the places we knew of-the-guard in the President’s position, so I took ad- would fill up early. We lined up someone to water the vantage of the new guy’s desire to make a good im- plants and get the mail. There were so many little things pression by hitting him up for extra vacation time as to do, that up until a few days before we left, it seemed soon as he arrived. It took him two weeks to make a like all of our free time revolved around getting ready decision, but in the end he made the right one. With for the trip. our vacation time in order and our excitement levels It’s impossible to accurately convey the experi- soaring, it was time to get serious about planning. ences we had during such a long trip. First, it’s one of 10—The Arizona Mountaineer 4 Weeks on the Road by Jeff Hatfield (cont. from page 10) those things where you have to be there. Pictures help, Cave; it has nothing on Kartchner Caverns. We but everyone knows that the pictures never capture what dodged the tourists at Custer State Park who were tak- you saw. Second, if I wrote about everything we did ing pictures through the tunnel next to the Needle’s and saw, you’d fall asleep, if you haven’t already. So Eye, waiting as they were to see what yahoo would below are a few highlights from the trip. The climbing scrape up the side of his car navigating the narrow hole write-ups will appear in a future issue. in the rock. We hiked through the Cathedral Spires. Colorado. We stayed overnight at a campground We climbed at Sylvan Lake, where we had the climb- near Telluride, testing out our new sleeping arrange- ing almost to ourselves. We climbed in the Ten Pins ments in the back of the Suburban for the first time. area; no one was around. We could easily have spent a Verdict: excellent. The next morning we drove to week climbing here. Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park for a Wyoming. Another truly beautiful state, once you short visit. This is a place to which we need to return to get to the good stuff. Eastern Wyoming is uninspiring, do some climbing in the future. (We would end up say- except for Devil’s Tower. We stopped there to take ing we needed to return to every place we visited; four pictures, knowing that the voluntary climbing ban was weeks truly isn’t enough time). We spent the next day still in effect and would preclude us from climbing. near my hometown of Evergreen, showing Susan Voluntary for us, but not for the two losers who ig- around my old haunts. We saw Coney Island, the bur- nored the ban and were halfway up the Durrance route. ger joint that’s shaped like a hot dog. We drove past It was raining, so maybe the gods were trying to tell Tiny Town, a tourist trap where you can ride a minia- them something! We passed a place called Dirty ture train on a miniature track through a miniature Sally’s, near the sport of Ten Sleep Can- town. We stopped by Red Rocks amphitheater, where I yon, and thought that would be a good moniker for sulked because Iron Maiden hadn’t made it to town yet. 5.10 Sally Larimer. (Either that, or Poodle-Girl, we’re Then it was on to Rocky Mountain National Park for a not sure which one). We spent a few days in Yellow- few days. We spent our time there hiking, mostly in the stone... freezing our butts off. It was cold and rainy rain. We hiked up Deer Mountain, where we saw no during our entire stay there. One morning it was snow- deer. We visited Bear Lake, where we saw no bears. ing and 30 degrees when we woke up. We never even We spent time driving around the park. We had tenta- unpacked our cooking gear, we were so cold, opting tively planned to climb at Lumpy Ridge, outside of Es- instead to eat in the overpriced park restaurants. We tes Park, but the only day we left open for climbing spent our time driving around the park, looking for ended up gray and rainy. Instead, we took pictures of it wildlife and identifying new birds. We managed to get and vowed (like every other place) to return again to one hike in. We chose the hike because a park worker climb. We identified many new birds in the park, and told us he saw grizzlies every time he went there. We saw a mountain goat, a herd of bighorn sheep, and sev- must have heard him wrong. He must have said mos- eral hundred elk. quitoes, not grizzlies. There were lots of mosquitoes; South Dakota. Why would anyone go to South no grizzlies. We eventfully would see a grizzly from Dakota, you might ask? Well, there’s that big rock the road, a mother black bear and cub, a few birds, hun- sculpture of the Presidents, for one. The Badlands are dreds of bison, and even a moose. After Yellowstone there. And there are a couple of big caves. But the was a brief stop at Grand Teton National Park. Again, a main reason a climber would go there is to climb in the truly spectacular place, and a place we’d like to climb Black Hills. As everyone does who visits South Da- in sometime. We walked around part of Jenny Lake, kota, we saw Mount Rushmore. I’d seen it as a kid, but taking a side trip past Moose Ponds, where we saw no was again in awe of the work that went into it. We saw moose. We visited Jackson, which has lost its small- a mountain goat there, calmly grazing next to the town charm in the twenty years since I’ve been there. hordes of milling people, some of whom never real- Nice place if you like crowds and stores full of cheap ized it was there. We saw the Crazy Horse Memorial, tourist junk, though. similar to Rushmore except the carving is of Crazy Idaho. Southern Idaho, to be exact. We got a rare Horse, is much bigger, and is nowhere near comple- treat upon entering the state at the Snake River overlook: tion. (That was an interesting ruse; at least it seemed two bald eagles perched in a tree, surveying the river. that way. We thought if we paid the $9 per person en- These really are majestic birds, almost regal in the way trance fee, we could get close to the monument like we they conduct themselves. We were on our way to the did at Rushmore. All the entrance fee did was get us only destination we had in Idaho: City of Rocks Na- off the road, from where we could already see the tional Reserve. We’d never heard of this place until we monument, and into a building that was just as far started climbing, but we’ll never forget it now. It has away from the monument as the road was. This will be what might be the best granite we may ever climb on. a better destination once they complete it and let peo- We spent a few days here, climbing a little and suffering ple venture closer). We took a tour through Wind the heat a lot. Definitely a worthwhile stop on our road

The Arizona Mountaineer—11 4 Weeks on the Road by Jeff Hatfield (cont. from page 11) trip, and a place we’ll be returning to when it’s cooler. time using our SuperTopo guides to get our bearings California. After a brief stop in South Lake Tahoe and scope out some route possibilities for the future. to partake in the kitsch of the casinos and junk (er, I We hiked up to Cathedral Lake, eyeing the beautiful mean gift) shops, we headed to Lover’s Leap for a few lines on Cathedral Peak en route. We visited one of the days of climbing. It was here we had our highest con- giant sequoia groves. We made the drive up to Glacier centration of climbing on the trip (we climbed each of Point, with its expansive views from the Valley floor the three days we were here), as well as the best all the way over to Tenaya Peak in Tuolumne. We stopped by El Cap meadow, and spent some time watching two poor souls working in the 95-degree heat to get across the King Swing pendulum on the Nose. It was humorous (to us, anyway) watching them, as they swung again and again, almost making the grab for the crack system, almost getting that piece of gear in, then swinging (and sometimes tumbling) back across the face. Watching these guys do their thing 1500 feet above the ground was inspiring, though. It helped us realize that the only way we’ll ever get to that point and be up on a big wall like that is if we quit doing things like canceling climbing plans and actually get out on the rock! We hadn’t done anything too strenu- ous during the trip, as most of our hikes and climbs were fairly moderate, but we made up for it in Yosem- ite. The most physical effort we put into the trip was the day we made the long hike up to the top of Half Dome in the mid-July heat. This is a 17-mile roundtrip hike, which gains 5000 vertical feet and took us 10-1/2 hours to complete. The last 800 feet of the “hike” is actually a 4th-class scramble, made possible by the im- probable-looking cables that are set up in parallel with wooden cross pieces every 8 or 10 feet for you to stand on. At the bottom of the cables is a pile of gloves that the Park puts there for hikers every season. We grabbed a pair, then started the strenuous (and frankly, somewhat intimidating) ascent to the top. This was literally and figuratively the high point of our trip. On the way back down, now out of water and overheated, we hiked the Mist Trail past Vernal and Nevada Falls, Susan on top of the Hogsback at Lover's Leap, after grateful for the refreshing spray coming off them as leading the final pitch of Manic Depressive Direct. they thundered to the ground. Photo by Jeff Hatfield We’ve now been back at work (and for me: school, too) for almost a month, as of this writing. We were ready to turn around and head out again as soon weather and best camping. Surprisingly, we were able as we got back! I still think about this trip daily. Re- to score a campsite in the climber’s campground just a membering it helps get me through some of those days few days before the busy 4th of July weekend. After when I just want the customers, the coworkers, the our visit to the Leap, we headed to Yosemite National traffic, and the headaches to go away. Luckily, we’ll Park, our final destination. Although we kept saying have plenty of help remembering it: we came back that every place we were visiting was the most beautiful with 850 digital pictures, 8 rolls of 35mm pictures, and we’d seen on the trip, Yosemite might actually qualify 6 hours of video! In the end, we didn’t climb as much as the most beautiful of all of them. From the smooth as we may have wanted. We didn’t hike as much as we domes of Tuolumne Meadows to the vertical walls of wanted to. We spent more money that we should have. the Valley, the place is simply breathtaking. We were in We put too many miles on the Suburban (4670 miles, such awe of the beauty around us that we abandoned to be exact). But it was worth it, because we had a our climbing plans (we didn’t have much of a plan, great time… and that’s all that matters. anyway) in favor of seeing as much of the park as we -Jeff Hatfield could. Even though we didn’t climb, we spent some

12—The Arizona Mountaineer Tracing Alpine History on Lizard Head (13,113 feet) by Erik Filsinger

The vague humming sound reverberated through ond carrying a pack with rain clothes, 2 liters of water, the metal shell of my van. I opened my eyes. I had left and some small essentials. the side door open to allow some of the wetness to air I made several moves as I started up the first out. The hummingbird was inside the van, hovering pitch, but after about 20 feet, my fingers were abso- over a sleeping Dan Bolin and fluttering a bit toward lutely numb and I couldn’t begin to feel the rock. I set me. My inner voice gave powers of communication to a solid piece and downclimbed with apologies to Dan. the spirit, or did she actually speak to me? “Just check- After a brief bathroom break, regained blood circula- ing. Are you okay?” she asked and was gone as I tion to my fingers, and calmed nerves I headed up blinked my eyes that we were fine. All was good. I again on lead. I climbed gingerly and set up a belay on turned onto my back and began to reflect. a ledge with a rap station about 80 feet off the ground. At the time of its first ascent (1920) Lizard Head The need for big pieces was evident if we were to sew peak may have been considered the toughest rock it up. The climbing had seemed somewhat stiff, per- climb yet done in the United States. Albert Ellingwood haps made more so by the chilly conditions. and his partner Barton Hoag had somehow managed to After bringing Dan up, we discussed the options ascend this formidable summit in hobnailed boots and to the middle Class 3 section about 30 feet up. It with a hemp rope and three . Their retreat had looked like you could go straight up the remainder of been marred by a stuck rope that had to be left behind. the chimney-corner system. However, a route descrip- Yesterday Dan Bolin and I had stood atop the rock tion had discussed moving onto the left face and then pinnacle 350 feet above the ridgeline and 3,000 feet making an airy traverse to easier ground. We saw a pin above the namesake pass near Telluride, both a bit () about 15 feet up the left face and Dan decided amazed at the challenging nature of the climb and the to head that way. Just as he was about to say intrepid souls who had gone before. At the rating of “climbing,” the foot-square block on which he was 5.7+ and alpine conditions, indeed it was an ascent one standing next to me gave way and thundered down the should not take lightly. path we had just ascended. I had him tight, and I know We had spent the night after the drive from Phoe- my heart was popping. We really did not need that nix at the Cross Mountain trailhead 2 miles south of type of “encouragement” from the mountain gods! Lizard Head pass, about 10 miles south of Telluride, Placing two large camming units in the back of Colorado. A 5:00 a.m. wake-up and 6:00 a.m. (MTS) the chimney, Dan made the crux moves onto the face start put us up the well-maintained trail and at the Liz- and up to the pin and clipped it. He back-cleaned the ard’s base by 9:00 a.m. The last bit had been a bit higher piece to alleviate rope drag. Another pin several loose without much of any sort of path. In past years, feet higher and soon he was at the beginning of the Lizard Head had been a bit of a prize, but its rotten airy traverse. He set a two-piece midway and rock and changing climbing fashions had left it for lo- began to edge across, arriving at the main rap station cals and a few wandering modern climbers who cared and a solid belay. I was happy as the second that he to do more than gaze at it from afar. had also been able to place some good pro intermit- Indeed, as we located the southern, left-facing cor- tently across the 20-foot traverse. ner system that marks the route and began to gear up, He yelled down holding some object in his hand. the rotten nature of the block was brought home. Dan At the rap anchor he had noticed an old ring piton and was moving close to the base and put his weight gave it a tug. That was what he was holding aloft. We against a two-foot by two-foot column of rock. It wondered which pioneer’s it was. promptly toppled with a loud crash. A wake-up call I swung by him onto lead and scrambled up to the indeed. base of the summit block, about a rope length of very To the two Phoenician lads poised at the bottom loose Class 3. The rope wasn’t necessary, but it of the vertical to overhanging face, the possible storm seemed easiest just to trail it up behind me. I gathered clouds to the West and the seeming bitter cold set a the rope into a pile as Dan followed up. somber backdrop. We were to swap leads with the sec- We looked over the several final pitch possibilities

The Arizona Mountaineer —13 Tracing Alpine History on Lizard Head by Erik Filsinger (cont. from page 13) and discounted the one of the left, but gave further the lower rap station. Dan replaced some old webbing looks at the middle, grungy gully with the 5.8 move and using a retrieval cord along with the 60-meter lead that appeared to be the guidebook description. The rope we soon were back at the base of Lizard Head. grungy gully involved a body-width chimney above it Success! 1:00 p.m. Colorado time. Four hours on and the whole thing looked a little loose. Instead our the rock. But wait! Here were my pack and hiking focus went to the right hand option out on the orange shoes, but where were Dan’s shoes? It was starting to face to the right. It involved a bouldering type of move rain and hail. There had actually been a fair amount of or two over a slight overhang, but then a solid ramp rock fall during our climb and soon we saw two socks that lead up to what we assumed was a short move to and one down the scree slope under the climb. the top. We did have some comfort that the route coin- Dan’s second shoe was missing. By now the thunder cided with the photo in Rosebrough’s guidebook of the and lightning were on us and we snuggled under the first winter ascent in 1970 by a strong party of Art overhanging wall trying to decide what to do. Hiking Howells, Mike Dudley, Don Doucette, Chuck out several miles in one approach shoe and one climb- Behrensmeyer, R.J. Campbell, and Fletcher Smith. ing shoe didn’t seem like a fun option. I racked up again and lead off. Placing one of my Had a wayward mountain goat taken a fancy to favored Aliens quite high, I overcame the initial moves nibbling on Dan’s shoes? Was a villain marmot at and was soon on the 60-degree-plus ramp. Fortunately work? Or had somehow the heavy rockfall taken the I was able to slot my green Big-Bro between the flake shoes down the fall line. that constituted the ramp and the main wall. Higher up Because I had my boots available, I donned my I clipped a piton, happy that at least someone had gone raingear and explored, occasionally dodging rock the this way before me. The top of the flake was actually a rain had loosened from above. Indeed, enough ex- small pinnacle, which I encircled with my Web-O- ploded somewhat near me that standing at the base of Lette before noticing two pins on the main wall a few the peak not tucked under an overhang was a risky feet above me. What a nice, airy two-foot by two-foot proposition. Luckily, or maybe hopefully, the rocks perch. The whole NE face fell out behind me several usually gave a second’s warning by bouncing some- hundred feet to the ground. where above. I explored left and right and down the To continue would have involved forming a Z fall line about 50 yards. No luck. with the rope, so we chose to make a second pitch to As soon as that storm cell passed by, we had a this part of the climb. Dan came up and we looked at short window before the next one down-valley would the final obstacles. A ramp lead leftwards, but looked be on us, so we had to act. Dan headed down the fall chossy, so after a move or two Dan backed off and line with the idea of traversing across the lower cliff came back down. He took the big pro from me and band to meet me on the descent ridgeline. I would take assaulted the 20-foot chimney directly above our posi- the ridgeline in case the animal shoe-poacher would tion. Using his right leg as a large wedge, he slithered drop her prize. upwards and found a solid Big-Bro placement that pro- Just as we were about to give up, Dan noted the tected another “crux” move. Soon he was scrambling shoe in a tongue of scree about 100 yards below the out of sight. peak. One of the larger pieces of rock must have ex- I slithered and grunted up the off-width chimney ploded near his shoe and the kinetic energy somehow as Dan brought me to the summit rap station. The sum- had been imparted to give the shoe flight. Weird! mit was about 20 feet higher and across the short The hike out was actually enjoyable in context of ridge. Summit photos followed and I hurried back to the alternative we had been facing. The rain and storms fix our rappel. even abated as we finally achieved the trailhead. Storm clouds and audible thunder motivated a Every mountain can hold a surprise. Who would quick descent, this time down the guidebook-preferred have thunk that a missing shoe would provide a new route in the middle of the summit block. After discuss- level of challenge on a Lizard’s Head? ing the pluses and minuses of the alternative summit -Erik Filsinger routes, we scrambled back down the Class 3 section to

14—The Arizona Mountaineer Calendar of Events (Continued from page 16)

Billboard—Other Scheduled Events Outings listed in this section are not AMC sanctioned outings. Any AMC member can list an event he or she is planning and which is open to other AMC members. The member does not have to be an approved AMC Outing Leader. If you wish to participate you should be physically and mentally prepared with the appropriate gear and should contact the member planning the outing. You are responsible for your own safety, not the person leading the outing. You should always be aware of the risks involved in outdoor activities and conduct yourself accordingly.

Wednesdays North Mountain Hikes after work. Rogil Schroeter (623) 512-8465 or [email protected]. Sept 13 Hike the Four Peaks..! VERY strenuous hike to bag all 4 peaks. Top physical condition, limited to 8. There will be a shorter, easier version at the same time, unlimited. Please contact by email if possi- ble: [email protected], else call Rogil at (623) 512-8465. Oct 11 Backpack to Reavis Ranch, Superstition Wilderness, Saturday, Oct. 11th and 12th, 2003. Rated: moderate, 6.5 miles in & 2350' of elevation gain. Trailhead elevation: 2480', Reavis Ranch: 4830', Circlestone: 6210', Mound Mtn.: 6266'. The exact route is 0.6 miles on Campaign Trail #256, 5.5 miles on Reavis Gap Trail #117, and 0.4 miles on Reavis Ranch Trail #109. Meet at 6:00 A.M. Saturday morning, meeting location yet to be determined, for carpooling in high clearance vehicles to Upper Horrell Trailhead. Previous backpacking experience helpful but not required. This eastern portion of the Supers is a remote, uniquely forested, lush, riparian area. Backpack through an area known for Indian sites, petroglyphs, and springs. Sample many varieties of apples at a large apple orchard and possibly sample apple pie, cake, or other made from scratch goodies made over a wood campfire. If interested and not to tired a few people may want to check out the ancient ruins at Circlestone, just (1160') above the ranch, early Sunday before departing. Circlestone is next to and almost even with the highest point in the Supers, Mound Mountain. Leave No Trace ethics will be expected of participants. For questions or a list of gear suggestions and strategies contact Dave Tanton: [email protected] or (480) 894-1112. Dec 27 Ouray . Dec. 27, 2003–Jan. 4, 2004. Ouray, CO. Visit website www.ourayicepark.com. $50.00 deposit for lodging reservation, in nice large furnished house retained for the outing. For more details contact Richard Horst (623) 434-4769.

Commercially Provided Training and Events The events listed below are provided by commercial outfitters for the benefit of AMC members. They are not AMC Outings, nor are they led by AMC Outing Leaders, thought they may be open only to AMC members. The commercial outfitter is solely responsible for all aspects of the outing, not AMC. While, in most cases, an AMC member may provide a service by AMC collecting the names of prospective participants and handling the logis- tics of out-of-town events, participants will sign up directly with the commercial outfitter.

None scheduled at present.

Indian Creek, Utah Aug. 29 thru Sep. 2. Participants climb on Saturday, Sunday and Mon- Drive up on Friday night (Aug 29) and camp out, day and then return to Phoenix on Tuesday. usually at Newspaper Rock State Park or near the res- Indian Creek is full of single-pitch cracks (and some ervoir. The drive takes about 6-8 hours through Kay- multi-pitch); plan on bringing tape for your fingers. No enta and Monument Valley into Utah. Indian Creek is limit. Contact Richard Horst at (623) 434-4769 (just on a mix of private and BLM land. The camping is dry back from enjoying Alaska’s miserable weather) for with no facilities. further details.

The Arizona Mountaineer — 15 Calendar of Events

AMC Outings Participation in AMC outings requires club membership. Outings vary in degree of danger. When you partici- pate in an outing you should be both physically and mentally prepared and equipped with the appropriate gear. You should always be aware of the risks involved in outdoor activities and conduct yourselves accordingly. The Outing Leader is not responsible for your safety; you are. Please contact the Outing Leader before going on an outing, discussing your capabilities with the Outing Leader. You must be over 18 years of age to participate, or must be accompanied by a parent or responsible adult, and obtain prior consent from the Outing Leader. Those accompanying minors are responsible for the minor’s safety.

Aug 29 Indian Creek, Utah. Aug 29–Sep 2. Amazing on Wingate Sandstone. Details page 15. Richard Horst (623) 434-4769. Sep 6 Adopt-a-Crag Day. Echo Canyon Trail at Camelback. Details page 5. Liz Serraglio (480) 704-1022. Sep 23 Lead School. Sep. 23, 24, 25, 27, 28. Details page 7. Nancy Birdwell (480) 821-1932 or email [email protected]. Sep 30 Grand Canyon Cleanup seminar. Details page 6-7. First-timers need to attend this seminar at 6:00 pm at Dreamy Draw. Others may come for a refresher if you want. Scott Hoffman (623) 580-8909. Oct 4 Grand Canyon Over-the-Rim Cleanup. Details page 6-7. Scott Hoffman (623) 580-8909. Oct 5 Grand Canyon Climb. Kaibab limestone, helmets required. 5.7-5.10. For Cleanup participants only. Scott Hoffman (623) 580-8909. Oct 8 Basic School Instructor Meeting. Sally Larimer (480) 425-9689. Oct 14 Basic School. Oct. 14,16,18,19,21,23,25. Slawa Ciula (602) 265-2661 or email [email protected]. Oct 25 The Mace. One of the 50 North American Classic Climbs. Frank Vers will lead his 10th annual ascent of this Classic multi-pitch sandstone route in Sedona. Solid 5.9+. Helmets mandatory. Limit 4. Frank Vers (480) 947 9435. Nov 01 Queen Creek Cleanup and Climb. Charlene Todd (480) 917-5354. Nov 05 Anchors School Instructor Meeting. Wayne Schroeter (602) 402-1631. Nov 11 Anchors School. Nov. 11,13,15,16. Nancy Birdwell (480) 821-1932 or email [email protected]. Nov 26 Joshua Tree Thanksgiving. Nov. 26-30.

**Cancellations: Please keep in mind that most outings have limits and that there is usually a waiting list to at- tend. Call at least 24 hours in advance to cancel. Courtesy dictates that you be on time for the outing, and that if you are sick or an emergency occurs the day of the outing, call the Outing Leader so the group doesn’t lose time waiting on you. To request outings: Call the Outings Chair, Monica Miller, at (623) 362-0456. (Continued on page 15) Outing Leaders Requirements for becoming a leader: take the Basic, Anchors and Lead classes (or equivalents), be a member for at least one year, complete a basic first aid and CPR class (8 hours or more), and be approved for leadership by at least five current leaders through formal application process and by the Board of Directors. Contact Dave Larimer at (480) 425-9689. Tom Conner ...... 480-897-7623 Tim Medlock ...... 719-494-1171 Wayne Schroeter ...... 602-402-1631 Erik Filsinger ...... 602-906-1186 Jeff Nagel ...... 602-318-9538 Jef Sloat ...... 602-316-1899 Jeff Hatfield ...... 480-783-8779 Paul Norberg ...... 602-808-9244 Mick Strole ...... 520-856-3335 Scott Hoffman ...... 623-580-8909 Paul Paonessa...... 602-493-7356 Rick Taylor ...... 623-487-8507 Richard Horst ...... 623-434-4769 Chris Query ...... 480-967-9268 Frank Vers ...... 480-947-9435 David Larimer ...... 480-425-9689 Tim Schneider ...... 480-497-8377 Tim Ward ...... 602-212-1929 Sally Borg Larimer ...480-425-9689 Rogil Schroeter ...... 623-512-8465

16—The Arizona Mountaineer AMC Calendar September 2003

Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat

31 Aug 1 2 3 4 5 6 Indian Creek Indian Creek Indian Creek Adopt-a- Crag Day (page 5) Sunrise 6:04 am Sunset 6:51 pm

7 8 9 10 11 12 13 AMC Board Meeting Sunrise 6:08 am Sunset 6:42 am

14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Sunrise 6:13 am Sunset 6:32 pm

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 AMC Mtg. Lead School Lead School Lead School Lead School (page 7) Prescott Anna

Louise Sunrise 6:18 am Keeling Sunset 6:23 pm

28 29 30 1 Oct 2 Oct 3 Oct 4 Oct Lead School GC Cleanup Grand Prescott Seminar Canyon 6:00 pm Cleanup (page 6-7) (page 6-7)

5 Oct 6 Oct 7 Oct 8 Oct 9 Oct 10 Oct 11 Oct Grand Basic School Canyon Instructor Climbing Meeting (page 6-7)