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INSIDE THIS ISSUE Presidentʼs Corner Technical Director Report the Use of Natural Ranges for Mountain Navigation Pack It out Se

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INSIDE THIS ISSUE Presidentʼs Corner Technical Director Report the Use of Natural Ranges for Mountain Navigation Pack It out Se INSIDE THIS ISSUE Vol. XVIV No. 14 Spring 2008 Board of Directors, Staff, Newsletter Contributors 2 Presidentʼs Corner 3 Technical Director Update 6 Sell Yourself or Free the Nose? By Betsy Novak Program Director Update 7 So far this year I have managed to attend a number of events where AMGA Gear Review 8 Certifi ed Guides, Climbing Instructors and guides in training dominated the Membership Form 14 masses such as the Ouray Ice Festival and Red Rock Rendezvous to name Contributors 15 a few. This was my fi rst year attending both and I have to admit a sense of pride overwhelmed me as I observed the number of AMGA affi liates that are integral to the success of these events. Each time a competitor, event host or clinic provider passed by wearing the AMGA logo or IFMGA pin I couldnʼt help but notice and think about the time, energy and money each person had to dedicate in order to achieve that honorable milestone. Now that might seem obvious considering my intimate relationship with and institutional knowledge of the AMGA, but while walking the crowds I realized that Presidentʼs Corner I was not the only one paying attention to the insignias worn by AMGA or IFMGA Guides. I quickly became aware that the novice ice and rock climbers and general festival attendees noticed as well. ...this is the busiest season for AMGA training courses—ski courses in AK, rock It seems to me that in order to get ahead in life we need to get noticed and one way to get the attention courses all over, the fi rst alpine course be- we are seeking is by promoting ourselves to others. This task of selling ourselves is not an easy one, and gins in a few days in CO. most of us would rather free The Nose than try to pitch why we are number one. The reality is that as professionals in a highly competitive and reactive industry it is critical that we convince our potential clients that we are the best person for the job. Our ability to show our qualities, as highly skilled and credible leaders, accomplished skiers and/or climbers, inspiring teachers, and team players can be a Technical Director crucial factor in sealing the deal. Report As individuals who either hold current certifi cation or are on the road to certifi cation, and as programs I have fi nally been able to take a few mo- that are accredited, we have a strong advantage over others because we have a logo and an association ments to think back on the AMGA ski pro- behind us that has a history and a reputation that people can relate to. The logo alone can be a helpful gram and where we have come and where tool in conveying a compelling message about what we do, why we do it, and the value our services we are going. provides to others. By amply representing ourselves as an IFMGA Guide, AMGA Certifi ed Rock, Ski, Ski Mountaineer- ing, or Alpine Guide, AMGA Certifi ed Rock Instructor, Top Rope Site Manager, or Single Pitch Instruc- The Use of Natural Ranges tor or AMGA Accredited Program we add tremendous worth to the education and training we have pursued, the credentials we hold, and the association that supports us. By mentioning our accomplish- for Mountain Navigation ments and credentials and appropriately using the AMGA/IFMGA logos in our bios, on our websites, Sometimes when navigating in the moun- business cards and brochures we expose more people to what it means to be AMGA or IFMGA Certifi ed tains (or anywhere), it is not necessary to or AMGA Accredited. know exactly where you are, but it is suf- When it comes down to it, what I am trying to say is that the more we promote ourselves the more we fi cient to know where you are relative to will get noticed; noticed by prospective clients, land managers, insurance brokers, and the general pub- some point or object. lic which in the end will benefi t each and everyone of us and the livelihood we seek. The AMGA exists to support and promote our members so please feel free to inquire about the many ways we can help you “sell yourself” as the talented and highly skilled professionals that you are. Pack it out As always, member comments are welcomed! Thanks for your time and I hope your spring season is As responsible members of the mountain- off to a prolifi c start. eering community, The AMGA tries to promote good ethics and stewardship. An All my best, awareness of the impact we each have on Betsy Novak the environment is a key component of AMGA Executive Director these practices. AMGA BOARD OF DIRECTORS 2007-2008 Newsletter Deadline The Mountain Bulletin is Published in February, May, Executive Committee: August, November. The next issue of the Mountain Bulletin will be published May 16th, 2008. John Bicknell President Rob Hess Technical Director Niwot, CO Jackson, WY Deadlines for all submissions, including adver- 970-586-5758 307-733-4979 tising are: January 11th (winter issue) April 11th [email protected] [email protected] (spring issue) July 11th (summer issue) October 10th (fall issue) Angela Hawse Vice President Phil Powers Ridgway, CO Denver, CO Newsletter Contributors: 970-626-5770 303-905-6330 [email protected] [email protected] Katie Kelly is the AMGA Membership Director. Betsy Novak is the AMGA Executive Director. John Race Secretary Dale Remsberg Henry Beyer is the AMGA Program Director. Leavenworth, WA Louisville, CO 509-548-5823 303-818-8009 Ed Crothers is the AMGA Accreditation Director. [email protected] [email protected] Justin Yates is the AMGA Program Assistant. Don Langlois is a current ACMG Hiking Guide. Margaret Wheeler Treasurer Scott Soden North Bend, WA Denver, CO Lara Usinowicz works for Restop, personal portable 206-818-7947 303.242.5758 sanitation systems. [email protected] [email protected] Don Pacher is the President of Pachner & Associates, LLC. Jim Pearson Legal Counsel Angela Hawse is current AMGA Vice President and a Evan Stevens Certifi ed Rock Guide. Denver, CO Salt Lake City, UT 303-478-1115 801-712-3438 John Bicknell is a Certifi ed Rock and Alpine Guide, is [email protected] current President of the AMGA, and is a Diamond Partner [email protected] of the organization. Peter Gould Legal Counsel Pete Takeda Rob Hess serves as the Technical Director of the Denver, CO Boulder, CO AMGA. He is IFMGAcertifi ed and is the senior 303-894-6176 720-273-7663 guide/owner of Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. PGould@Patton Boggs.com [email protected] Pete Takeda is a current AMGA Board member. Gear Reviewers – Betsy Novak, Henry Beyer, Ed Croth- Matt Brooks Historian Jim Williams ers, & Justin Yates Fremont, CA Jackson, WY [email protected] 307-733-8812 [email protected] National Offi ce Staff Adam Fox Executive Director: Betsy Novak Hendersonvill, NC John Winsor Program Director: Henry Beyer 888-284-8433 Boulder, CO Membership Director: Katie Kelly [email protected] 303-579-9227 Accreditation Director : Ed Crothers [email protected] Program Assistant: Justin Yates Keith Garvey Boulder, CO 720-221-8302 American Mountain Guides Association [email protected] P.O. Box 1739 Boulder CO 80306 Read this Disclaimer! Tel: 303.271.0984 The AMGA, its offi cers and employees, authors, editors, artists and volunteers assume Fax: 303.271.1377 no responsibility or liability for accuracy, effectiveness, or safety of any technique or email: [email protected] advice described in this publication. It is the responsibility of the individual climber or website: www.amga.com guide to investigate technical techniques and evaluate them for safety and applicability. 2 AMGA Mountain Bulletin 303.271.0984 www.amga.com [email protected] Presidentʼs Corner by John Bicknell Itʼs spring in Colorado, a time I love because those who climb more than ski to those who ski more than climb. I took you can do it all. Last week, I skied 20” of the course for the same reasons you do—I thought it would improve my new snow with an old client on Thursday ability serve my clients in the ski and avalanche courses I work. I believe and worked a Single Pitch course in Boulder it did. I am also curious (still am) as to the feasibility of continuing on to over the weekend with temperatures in the full certification. I like the fact that Iʼm still taking AMGA courses, as are seventies. For much the same reason, this is many AMGA Board Members—the trainings and exams are the heart of the busiest season for AMGA training cours- the AMGA and Iʼm happy not to be removed from that. It means I can bet- es—ski courses in AK, rock courses all over, ter appreciate both the benefits of AMGA courses and at times understand the first alpine course begins in a few days also your frustrations on those courses. in CO. Demand for all these courses seems It was great meeting other AMGA members and listening to their ideas strong; enrollments are high. and concerns. A common theme was that the AMGA should be linked In particular, public demand for the revised Single Pitch course (old to a university program. They saw the benefits in the greater availability TRSM) and the still-pilot Climbing Wall Instructors course in collabora- of loans, scholarships and array of courses that help round out a guideʼs tion with the Climbing Wall Association is encouraging. A second section skills (teaching, marketing, business, ect.).
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