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Amga Hosts First Annual Land Managers Conference

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Amga Hosts First Annual Land Managers Conference INSIDE THIS ISSUE Board of Directors, Staff, Newsletter Contributors 2 Executive Director Corner 3 President Corner 3 AMGA HOSTS FIRST ANNUAL LAND Land Use Article continued 4 Technical Director Update 5 MANAGERS CONFERENCE Guides Gear 6 Scholarship Programs 7 Boulder, CO - The AMGA hosted a Land Managers Conference on April 17th and 18th. In atten- Membership Corner 8 dance were representatives from the National Forest Service, National Park Service, Bureau of Land Membership Form 9 Management, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Jefferson County, National Outdoor Leadership School, Merchandise Form 9 Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, the Access Fund, and the American Mountain Guides Association Program Update 10 (for a complete list of attendees please contact [email protected]). Program Schedule 10 Contributors & Corporate Partners 11 Conference attendees gathered from across the country to participate in this first annual event. On Saturday, guest speakers included Maura Longden from the National Park Service and Steve Muehlhauser from Eldorado Canyon State Park. Discussions were held in a round table format that encouraged open communication between all conference attendees. Topics included the use of fixed hardware policies on public lands, and how to create a climbing management plan, and using the ANNUAL MEETING and AMGA as a resource to facilitate discussion between land management agencies and guides. On Saturday, Steve Muelhlhauser led attendees on a tour of Eldorado Canyon State Park to wrap up a 25th Anniversary productive and enjoyable day. The dates are set for the 2004 AMGA Sunday's guest speakers included Shawn Tierney from the Access Fund and AMGA Board of Annual Meeting and 25th Anniversary Directors member Boots Ferguson from Holland & Hart Law Offices. Shawn Tierney gave a presen- Celebration. Please join us this October in tation on how land managers can work with the climbing community to address concerns from both Moab, UT for this important event. parties. Shawn focused on the boulders around Bishop, CA as an example of creating successful poli- cies that worked for everyone. Boots Ferguson, the AMGA chair of the Public Policy Committee, spoke on the new NPS Commercial Use Regulations, New Access Models, and Working Through the Access Maze. 2004 BOARD OF Conference attendees were pleased with the format of the conference and expressed the desire to DIRECTORS ELECTIONS attend meetings in the future. The dates for next year's conference will be announced in early January of 2005. Nominations will be held for the upcoming 2004 Board of Directors Election. Five posi- PROMOTING LAND USE ISSUES AND tions will open on the Board of Directors in 2004. PERMITTING PROCEDURES By Jim Ratz While attending the AMGA Land Manager Conference in Boulder last April, I was reminded of how much we could and should do as an organization to promote and understand land use issues and permitting procedures with our membership. "THE LIFE OF A MOUNTAIN GUIDE" While I don't know the figures, I would be willing to bet that a large percentage of our membership guides on federally managed lands. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised to hear the majority of guiding by AMGA members, employees of accredited guide services and certified guides is done on federal Achieving the equivalence of a PHD in all lands. With apologies to those who guide exclusively on other lands and outside the US, I want to aspects of technical mountaineering on explore a few ideas as they relate to our relationship with the federal government. rock, ice, snow and skis, the young guide is trained and certified for his/her lifelong It sounds corny but I think it is important to remind ourselves that the "shop" where we practice our vocation in the mountains. craft is owned by the American people and we "rent" space by way of permits and concession con- tracts. Almost every land manager I've ever met feels very strongly about their heritage of steward- ship. How we are perceived by the folks who manage the land, and most importantly, by the "own- ers", aka the public at large, is crucial to our professional future. (continued page 4) The Mountain Bulletin is published in May, August, November and February. Newsletter Deadline The next issue of the Mountain Bulletin will be pub- AMGA BOARD OF DIRECTORS 2004 lished August 6, 2004. Executive Committee: Deadline for all submissions, including advertising is July 16, 2004. Dick Jackson, President Matt Brooks, Treasurer Deadlines for 2004 issue are as follows: Basalt CO San Francisco CA January 31 (Winter Issue) 970-925-7625 [email protected] April 30 (Spring Issue) [email protected] July 16 (Summer Issue) Todd Vogel, Secretary October 29 (Fall Issue) Jim Ratz , Vice President Bishop CA Lander WY (760) 873-8526 Newsletter Contributors: 307 733-4979 [email protected] [email protected] Mike Alkaitis is Executive Director of the AMGA and a certified Rock Guide. Simon Fryer is the Program Director for the AMGA. He has worked for the Colorado Mountain School as Office Manager, Expedition Coordinator, and Guide. Peter Absolon Pete Keane Lander WY Bend OR Rob Hess serves as the Technical Director of the AMGA. 307-332-1417 541-312-9242 He is IFMGA certified and is the senior guide/owner of [email protected] [email protected] Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. David Bengston Kyle Lefkoff Dick Jackson is a UIAGM/IFMGA guide and current Yosemite Valley CA Boulder CO president of the AMGA. 2 209-372-8344 303-444-6950 [email protected] [email protected] Nancy Lea is the Membership Services Manager of the AMGA. Prior to working with the AMGA Nancy served as Program Director for City Cliffs, a non-profit organiza- John Bicknell Craig Luebben tion dedicated to working with under priveledged youth. Estes Park CO Golden CO 970-586-5758 303-277-9678 Jim Ratz is the Vice President of the AMGA and is an [email protected] [email protected] owner of Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. Boots Ferguson, Legal Counsel Maury McKinney Aspen CO N. Conway NH National Office Staff 970-925-3476 603-356-7064 [email protected] [email protected] Executive Director: Mike Alkaitis Angela Hawse Charlie Townsend Program Director: Simon Fryer Ridgway CO Tamworth NH Membership Services Manager: 206-949-4030 603-356-5433 Nancy Lea [email protected] [email protected] Technical Director: Rob Hess Rob Hess Jim Williams Jackson WY Jackson WY (307) 733-4979 307-733-8812 American Mountain Guides Association [email protected] [email protected] P.O. Box 1739 Boulder CO 80306 Read this Disclaimer! The AMGA, its officers and employees, authors, editors, artists and volunteers assume no Tel: 303.271.0984 responsibility or liability for accuracy, effectiveness, or safety of any technique or advice Fax: 303.271.1377 described in this publication. It is the responsibility of the individual climber or guide to investigate technical techniques and email: [email protected] evaluate them for safety and applicability. website: www.amga.com AMGA Mountain Bulletin 303.271.0984 www.amga.com [email protected] EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR CORNER by Michael Alkaitis, Executive Director I attended a party for a friend of mine who just passed the Ski Mountaineering exam recently. The celebration was a grand affair where the joy of seeing a friend com- plete his quest to become a fully certified IFMGA guide brought warmth to the entire gathering. The sense of community celebrating the achievement made me think of how lucky I am to be part of the guiding community. The guiding community is worldwide and shares the same values and love of the mountains. It is great to be part of this larger community as it reminds me every day of how wonderful our jobs as mountain guides truly is. We are able to share our special and unique activities with people who may not otherwise ever experience these sights, sensations, heights, and friends. I look forward to a day in the U.S. where all guides are certified and can share the special feeling of achievement and joy I witnessed the other night. The sense of profes- sionalism and pride in mountain guiding is growing every day in the U.S. and will continue with the help of our members. The AMGA will continue to advocate for resource based access on our public lands and to educate land managers on why AMGA training and certification are the pre- ferred standard. The AMGA hosted the first annual land managers conference (see update in this issue) while continuing our goal of making the AMGA a national resource for land managers. With the summer season fast approaching I encourage you to participate in AMGA training, certification, and to conclude some of your professional goals. Contact your local land manager and ask how you can be of assistance, as well as Leave No Trace (www.lnt.org) to see how you can partner with them and your land manager. Be safe in the mountains and I look forward to seeing all of you at this years annual meeting in Moab, UT. 3 PRESIDENT CORNER by Dick Jackson, AMGA President "THE LIFE OF A MOUNTAIN GUIDE" As the spring days extend longer, I often spend a month or so in the European Alps, especially in Chamonix as a home base for skiing, climbing and paragliding. Chamonix is the worldwide center for Alpinism, and the tradition of mountain guiding is deeply engrained in the local culture, economy and social structure. During the formative days of our profession, guides were initially chosen both by family name and as the local legend suggests: should a child "stick" to a rock wall once thrown against it.... Voila, a Mountain Guide! Achieving the equivalence of a PHD in all aspects of technical mountaineering on rock, ice, snow and skis, the young guide is trained and certified for his/her lifelong vocation in the mountains.
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