VERTICAL TIMES The National Publication of Access Fund Winter 18/Volume 113 www.accessfund.org 10 Climbing Areas in Crisis page 8 CLIMB LIKE A LOCAL: COCHISE STRONGHOLD 5 WILLIAMSON ROCK ON PATH TO REOPENING 7 Protect America’s Climbing INNOVATING FOR SUSTAINABLE BOLT REPLACEMENT 12 AF Perspective It takes two flints to make a fire. But alongside the excitement and positivity was a common thread of concern: Our world-class climbing areas are “ – LOUISA MAY ALCOTT suffering from world-class impacts and problems. It’s ” becoming harder and harder to mitigate impacts from the ere’s a fun experiment: Throw a group of dedicated, growing number of climbers. While this has been a long- passionate climbers in a room and ask them, “How term battle, the problem is more acute than ever. So few of Hare we going to save our climbing areas?” our climbing areas are built or managed for the number of climbers using them today. I heard the same phrase again No, this isn’t Access Fund’s origin story (although it’s pretty and again: “Our climbing areas are being loved to death.” close). But it’s the premise behind Access Fund’s summits, trainings, and conferences, which we’ve been hosting for Our charge now is to love these areas back to life. And that more than 25 years. starts with getting real about the impacts, acknowledging the need for recreation infrastructure to protect these I went to my first Access Fund summit in 2009. It was in places, and bringing a whole heck of a lot more resources to Dr. Bob Matheny’s log cabin, tucked under one of the Red bear. We can do it, if we come together. We’re at a crux, but River Gorge’s most historic crags, Torrent Falls. Two dozen we’re climbers. We can’t be afraid to take on this challenge. volunteer climbing advocates from all over the country were crammed into Bob’s living room to learn and share best As you gather with family and friends over the holidays, practices for climbing conservation, ignoring the world-class remember your climbing areas and the special experiences sandstone 50 feet from the cabin door. they bring to your life. At Access Fund we’ll be thinking of you, your local crag, and your generous support. Please It was a total eye-opener. I was the newbie volunteer, having consider making a tax-deductible gift before year-end to just joined my local climbing organization, and all around me support our work. The back page of this issue also has were giants, folks who’d spent years fighting hard for their some great holiday gift ideas for climbers, and all proceeds climbing areas. They’d been down the hard road of closed support the cause. crags and advocacy failures. They were the pioneers of real, on-the-ground solutions that worked. The strength of their Sincerely, passion and dedication was palpable...and motivating. If they can do it, I can do it—we can do it! I have that same feeling now, having just returned from Access Fund’s most recent summit in New York City. Over 120 climbers came together at our 2018 National Climbing Zachary Lesch-Huie Advocacy Summit (presented by Patagonia) to share and Interim Executive Director learn new strategies in climbing conservation. As new and old climbing advocates mixed, piling into conference rooms in a tall building in Manhattan, the energy was palpable. We were here to work on keeping climbing areas open and conserved. Become a Legacy Donor Some of us may never develop a climbing route, put up a first ascent, write a guidebook, or climb 5.15. But there are other ways to contribute to the story of climbing in America. Making a planned gift to Access Fund is an easy way to establish your own legacy of climbing access, and give back to the climbing experience. Planned giving is not just for the wealthy or financial planning experts. Learn more atwww.accessfund.org/plannedgift Cover image: Jenny Allen gearing up for the roof on Boardwalk, 2 Vertical Times www.accessfund.org 303-545-6772 Ship Rock, Blue Ridge Parkway, NC | © Lynn Willis Access Fund ACCESS FUND BOARD Ryan Kempf OF DIRECTORS Finance Manager [email protected] OFFICERS Zachary Lesch-Huie President, Jonah Harrison, WA Interim Executive Director Vice President, Jessica Yates, CO [email protected] Treasurer, Jeff Buhl, CO Annabelle McClure Conservation Specialist Alex Kutches, WA Secretary, [email protected] BOARD MEMBERS Heather Distad Events & Outreach Manager Peter Croft, CA [email protected] Josh Friedman, OR Mike Morin Ryan Gellert, Amsterdam Northeast Regional Director [email protected] Kenji Haroutunian, CA Erik Murdock Hilary Harris, ME Policy Director Shelma Jun, NY [email protected] Charlie Lieu, WA Carolyn Prescott Rob Price, WA Conservation Specialist [email protected] John Winsor, CO Joe Sambataro ACCESS FUND STAFF Access Director & Northwest Regional Director Jessica Dauchy [email protected] Operations Director [email protected] Curt Shannon Policy Analyst Scott Dissel [email protected] Interim Development Director [email protected] Holly Smolenski Communications & Marketing Director Daniel Dunn [email protected] Office & Membership Coordinator [email protected] Brian Tickle Texas Regional Director Jordan Fisher [email protected] Marketing Manager [email protected] Ty Tyler Stewardship Director Michael Fitzgerald [email protected] Corporate Partnerships Manager [email protected] Jenna Winkler Programs Associate Karan Goldsberry [email protected] Technology Strategist [email protected] Chris Wu Conservation Specialist Katie Goodwin [email protected] Policy Analyst & CA Regional Director GENERAL COUNSEL [email protected] Chris Archer Andrea Hassler Archer Law Offices, P.C. Conservation Specialist [email protected] [email protected] Allen Jircik Conservation Specialist [email protected] Kate Johnson Conservation Specialist [email protected] Jason Keith Senior Policy Advisor [email protected] Jasyn Klamboroski getting some sticks on White Fang at Big Lost Cove Cliffs in Pisgah National Forest, NC | © Lynn Willis Winter 18 Vertical Times 3 News from the Grassroots Network 15th Annual Yosemite Facelift a Huge Success Yosemite Climbing Association (YCA) teamed up with Yosemite National Park again this year for another hugely successful weeklong Yosemite Facelift. Volunteers hauled out over 8,000 pounds of trash. YCA and Access Fund also hosted a panel discussion on transitioning from indoor to outdoor climbing with athletes Chris Schulte, National Climbing Advocacy Summit Kate Rutherford, and Jeff Loda (The Warrior’s Way trainer). Access Fund is New York City was the backdrop for our National Climbing Advocacy Summit excited to now offer joint membership in late September. Presented by Patagonia, the event brought together more with YCA, meaning you can support than 120 climbers, advocates, and conservationists from across the country Access Fund and YCA with a single for a day of workshops and discussions on climbing access and stewardship. If membership and help fund this you missed it, check out the photos and presentations at our website at www. incredible event! accessfund.org/2018summit. LCO 101: Preparing for Large-Scale Stewardship Initiatives — Julia Geisler, Executive Director of Salt Lake Climbers Alliance LCOs everywhere are recognizing that climbing areas are in need of a real overhaul to truly achieve sustainability. So how do you take the leap from one-day Adopt a Crag events to multi-month or even multi-year stewardship initiatives? • Consider the entire climbing system. Where do climbers park, where do they use the restroom, how do they get to crags, how do they get off the boulders, are there other users (hikers, equestrians) who need to be accommodated, are there any species of concern, do fixed anchors need to be replaced? • Outline the needs and develop a plan. Start with a comprehensive map that includes trails, parking, popular crags, etc. Then put pen to paper and outline all the needs throughout the area. Think of reasonable time frames and phases in which the work can be accomplished. Prioritize the needs and document how these may be met in a proposal with a realistic budget. • Consider regulations and policies. If you’re working on public land, become familiar with the laws, policies, and regulations that land managers work under. The National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) governs this process on all federal lands, and you’ll need to provide as much information as possible in your project proposals to establish the need, prove you’ve done due diligence, and show a good concept and implementation plan. If you’re working on private land, make sure you establish a relationship with the landowner to work through project proposals and necessary permissions. • Find experts to get work done. The type of recreation infrastructure needed at most climbing areas is not something every volunteer or even trail crew has the expertise to produce. The Access Fund-Jeep Conservation Team crews are a good place to start, and you can supplement with a dedicated group of volunteers or other professional crews or Conservation Corps. • Get funding. Look to leverage any and all resources. Federal, state, and local grants are great avenues, especially for well-thought-out proposals by qualified organizations tackling complex conservation issues. A local fundraising campaign within your community can also be very effective. Consider local companies that are invested in a higher quality of life for people in their community. Also, don’t forget the Access Fund Climbing Conservation Grants program as a seed source. 4 Vertical Times www.accessfund.org 303-545-6772 Community Perspective CLIMB LIKE A LOCAL: COCHISE STRONGHOLD ochise Stronghold is a jagged ridge of granite unprepared for the remote adventure climbing. Deep down, peaks and spires that rise out of the remote they are nice people though.