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Allamuchy Mountain, Stephens State Park

Rock

Inventory of NJ’s

State Parks

and Forest

Prepared by

Access NJ Contents Photo Credit: Matt Carlardo www.climbnj.com June, 2006

CRI 2007 Access NJ

Scope of Inventory

I. Climbing Overview of

Introduction NJ’s Climbing Resource

II. Rock-Climbing and Cragging: New Jersey

Demographics NJ's Climbing Season Climbers and the Environment Tradition of on the East Coast

III. Climbing Resource Inventory

C.R.I. Matrix of NJ State Lands Climbing Areas

IV. Climbing Management Issues

Awareness and Issues Bolts and Fixed Anchors Natural Resource Protection

V. Appendix

Types of Rock-Climbing (Definitions) Climbing Injury Patterns and Injury Epidemiology Protecting Raptor Sites at Climbing Areas Position Paper 003: Climbers Impact Climbers Warning Statement

VI. End-Sheets

NJ State Parks Adopt a Crag

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Introduction

In a State known for its beaches, meadowlands and malls, rock climbing is a well established year-round, outdoor, all weather recreational activity. Rock Climbing “cragging” (A rock-climbers' term for a cliff or group of cliffs, in any location, which is or may be suitable for climbing) in NJ is limited by access. Climbing access in NJ is constrained by topography, weather, the environment and other variables. Climbing encounters access issues . with private landowners, municipalities, State and Federal Governments, watershed authorities and other landowners and managers of the States natural resources.

The motives and impacts of climbers are not distinct from hikers, bikers, nor others who use NJ's open space areas. Climbers like these others, seek urban escape, nature appreciation, wildlife observation, exercise and a variety of other enriching outcomes when we use the resources of the New Jersey’s State Parks and Forests (Steve Matous, Access Fund Director, March 2004). Descent by Rappelling: NJ Highlands NJ’s climbing resource is rugged, often with sustained approaches through talus slope woodlands uncleared since the early 1900’s. Found in these largely, more often then not undisturbed woodlands are numerous unexplored and often unclimbed boulders, cliffs and crags . Balanced against these fragile woodland areas is climbing’s foundation. Conservation and environmental protection. The enclosed climbers resource inventory (CRI) is submitted to the NJ State Park and Forestry Service.

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NJ Climbing Resource

NJ's geological history is traced to the Precambrian Era (570 million years to 1 billion years ago). flows were transformed to methorphic rocks which in turn allowed a base of limestone which then allowed the formation of the (Paleozoic Era). In the Triassic period of the Mesozoic Era NJ’s landscape was assaulted by lava flows which formed the , ridges, the Palisades, and other landscape features that are found today among NJ’s climbing resources. From this base came periods of glaciers w/ the terminal moraine of the Wisconsin Glacier traversing NJ from modern day Perth Amboy to near Belvidere on the . The glacier when it retreated left behind huge glacier erratic boulders (ie: areas) such as those found in Morris County Parks Pyramid Mountain. Today NJ is composed of five physiographic land regions. The Ridge and Valley of Kittatinny Mountain, the Highlands, the Piedmont and the Coastal Plains.

NJ’s climbing resources are found throughout the first three landforms. The type of climbing one does is dependent of the type of rock and landform. Commonality among these features are basic and fundamental climbing skills and techniques. NJ’s diversity of climbing resources is what makes NJ an appealing place to climb. Effort maybe required to reach a NJ climbing site. Such effort limits those who venture into NJ’s wild-areas. However this is changing. Mans footprints impact the fragile wild areas of NJ’s climbing resources. Mitigating access issues and preserving climbing access at these threatened spots led to the forming of Access NJ.

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Approaching NJ’s Climbing Resource

Approaches to NJ’s climbing areas are often “stiff”. To reach climbing areas on Windbeam Mountain one must first ascend a 900 foot elevation gain in ¼ mile, Green- Pond West’s has a rather steep out hike. There is no easy access to the Farney Highlands. Conversely access to say a type bouldering area is via a well patrolled parking area and down a sloped, paved and graded footpath through a picnic area and crowds wading around the parks waterfalls. Such is climbing access in New Jersey.

Yet when reaching climbing sites in NJ you are often hard pressed to see or hear another person except those with who you are climbing. That is the beauty of climbing in NJ. You put the effort in to access a climbing area (see CRI Data Page) and one is rewarded with sweeping expanses of (remote) undeveloped wild areas inside public open space areas.

Winter Tempest Wildcat Ridge WMA

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Demographics

NJ’s climbing community is expansive and diverse. Economically College Outing Club anchoring the regions climbing community are numerous outdoor stores retail outlets: Ramsey Outdoor Stores (2), Eastern Mountain Sports Stores (4 stores), Campmor Inc. (1 store, one of the USA’s largest outdoor retailers), Blue Ridge Mountain Sport Store Chain (2 stores), LL Bean, REI and other outdoor recreation stores and chains.

Top-Roped Climber, Found associated to these demographics are a plethora of private and publicGreen Pond indoor climbing gyms. A review of commercial guides and guiding groups clients lists throughout the world appreciates a solid client base of NJ’s residents. Climbing outing clubs are found in the majority of NJ’s schools of higher education, in numerous high schools and among community groups.

Access NJ a Statewide climbing advocacy group has approximately 2,500 names on its e- mail list serv. The number of actual climbers in NJ is unknown w/ an estimate (2004) placed at around 7,500. Outdoor climbing in NJ is found for the most part in the North Jersey Highlands and on State Owned and Managed lands and forests. Climbing in NJ appreciates a ethic with a strong in-grained low- key, emphasis on conservation, preservation and stewardship of NJ’s fragile wild areas and sensitive climbing areas. There are no climbing areas in NJ South of Princeton, NJ. Climbing gyms and indoor walls are not counted in this calculus. Allamuchy State Park 6 www.climbnj.com CRI 2007 Access NJ

Not all of NJ’s cliffs, crags and boulders are those areas and landforms that should be climbed. Rock gardens inside flower gardens, inter-State cliffs, road cuts and inside the State Parks natural areas are not appropriate places to boulder and or climb. Access in these areas is treated on a case by case basis. Generalizations on access is not a valid argument. NJ’s climbing strength is the

Hunterdon County Park System: 2007 diversity of the States climbing resources.

This CRI identifies selected climbing areas in NJ and lists access issues. Included are public service announcements and position papers all focused on access issues inside the State of NJ. This list of actions is not comprehensive. Access NJ (ANJ) and or its precursor have been active in access and Hacklebarney climbing resource issues in NJ since the mid 1980’s.

ANJ is a grassroot organization in the truest sense of the word. ANJ membership spans a diverse demographic and lends credence to Eric Becks (pro-typical 1960’s Yosemite Big Wall Climber) statement, “ that at either end of the social

Central NJ Bouldering spectrum is a leisure class”.

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Throughout this inventory the reader will note that specific and exact location of climbs are not listed. Rather listed are the general locations of climbing sites. NJ’s historic climbing tradition is such that climbers tend to follow the words, “leave nothing but footprints, take nothing but pictures”.

Climbing has been directly documented in NJ in the early 1950’s w/ strong, direct evidence of roped climbing in NJ in the 1930’s.

NJ’s Climbing Season

NJ bears the imprint of various highly Morris County, Green Pond Cliffs, West varied evolving, geologic processes, some traced back hundreds of millions of years. The States diverse climbing resources mirror NJ’s unique geologic history. Environmental characteristics Green Pond: 1976 impact climbing techniques and styles. (See CRI for listing of selected

climbing areas and associated photoGreen Pond:credit: john rogers 1978 climbing).

Climbing techniques vary widely and are dependent on prevailing weather conditions.

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Insects, weather, foliage, humidity and ice are among other objective hazards found in NJ climbing areas. Arguably, NJ’s climbing season runs from mid-September through mid- July. The best months for climbing in NJ are in the late Spring and then after the heat of the summer into the Fall and early Winter.

Tradition of Rock Climbing on the East Coast

The East Coast of the USA Cannon Cliff, New Hampshire has a strong tradition of rock climbing. In 1927, Appalachian Mountain Club members all made belayed ascents of the steep rock faces of the Cannon, Cathedral, and

Talus Whitehorse cliffs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.

Seven years later, a group of New Yorkers climbing Breakneck Ridge (the Eastern Border of the Highlands), on the flanks of the , looked to the north and saw a white cliff band, which constituted the Shawangunks. Soon after, climbers began flocking from around the world to test their skills along the East Coast and in and about the Highlands.

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Found throughout NJ are remnants of climbing. Old, rusted ring iron are found as far South as Cranberry Ledges, likewise old square cut bolts (both circa 1930’s) are found under Central NJ cliffs overhangs. We were not the first people to climb in NJ. Climbing history in NJ can be directly traced back to the early 1950’s. NJ’s long-time “traditional”, time-tested climbing ethic stands as a testament to harmonize environmental protection with that of climbing’s popular modernity.

Climbers and the Environment

“Lead Climber. a Second” Summit Bluffs, Windbeam Mountain, NJ

Looking West into Abraham Hewitt State Park December 27, 2003

Climbers, like other outdoor enthusiasts are strong supporters of the environment, open space and conservation. Climbers know it is important to be respectful of the areas they climb if they want to maintain climbing access, whether the property is private or public. Allowing climbing in State Parks maximizes appropriate use of park resources and encourages support for their conservation for future generations.

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Climbers have a history of preserving the environment and of activism. Locally the Mohonk Preserve in New Paltz, New York has welcomed climbers since being founded in 1963. Climbers have contributed significantly to the work of the Preserve, as volunteers, staff members, donors, and concerned users of the land.

Climbers are stewards of the land on which we are patrons (, Freedom of the Hills) . Here in NJ ANJ fosters this core tenet of climbing by working w/ the land managers in carrying out Adopt A Crag events (see Appendix 1).

Climbing Resource Inventory This inventory of NJ’s State Parks and Forests is not, nor should it not be considered complete. Information for being placed on this list comes from interviews of

Waywayanda State climbers, forest fire service personal, State rangers, Park, Summer 2006 naturalists, land managers and others. Onsite visits have occurred at the sites listed. One would be foolish to think one is climbing a . This is after all NJ, the USA most densely populated State.

Only general climbing areas are listed. It is up to the individual climber to determine the climb based on their experience level.

Do not bring the rock to your level using bolts, chopping or gluing holds or otherwise damaging self- serving ideals. Such environmental destructive practices are not welcome nor encouraged here in NJ.

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Sensitive. fragile, and other State listed Natural Areas where climbing could take place are not identified. Respect nature. Not every rock, boulder and cliff needs to be climbed. Approach and climbing trails are not

listed in the inventory. 12 www.climbnj.com CRI 2007 Access NJ

Access NJ

Access New Jersey ( www.climbnj.com ) Conservation precursor originated in the mid 1980’s during the development threats to the Cradle Rock Boulder Field. Cradle Rock was at the time the local bouldering site for numerous generations of locals. In the

Highl ands Cli mbi ng Site 1950’s staff and students of the Institute “Ebony Spleenwor t” for Advanced Studies frequented the site before, during and after lectures.

Cradle Rock, the holy grail of NJ bouldering , hard, thin, committing, face problems on diabase faces and simple access was about to be blasted into dust.

Local climbers joined w/ local landowners and together they bridged a spirited, multi-year campaign that ended with somewhat bittersweet success. Cradle Rocks 300 million year old diabase boulders are protected. The site is now fenced in by a private landowner who allows bouldering onsite on a case by case basis. A cautionary warning is that access to climbing areas is constantly “Bitch Boulder” Cradle Rock under threat and that climbers must remain vigilant Bouldering Area , against closures.

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Since that period Access NJ (ANJ) has morphed into a Sate-wide grassroot organization whose mission is advocacy and Access NJ education to expand climbing access in NJ by Highland Act Testimony working to remove unnecessary regulations and Adopt A Crag Events policies, while working to preserve and protect Highland “Ambassadors” NJ's fragile climbing environment and natural Park and Climbing Site resources. Access NJ focus is a resource for Cleanups climbers, non-climbers, property owners, land Erosion Controls in Parks managers, park administrators and others. State and Community Outreach Access NJ is an affiliate of the Access Fund. . Public Service Announcements

Position Papers Today Access NJ is based in the flatlands of NJ in Mt. Trail Work/Mapping Holly. ANJ retains is grass-root status . ANJ has Resource Protection successfully lobbied the NJ State Parks so that now Climbing Brochure (2005) to go climbing on State land a yearly wavier Injury Control must be signed. Waiver’s are found in every NJ Governmental Affairs State Park Office. Statewide and Regional

Members Officially acknowledged and recognized by the

Access Fund, Somerset County, the NJ State Park www.climbnj.com Service and its precursor listed in the 1991 NJ Governors Council in the Outdoors; Annual Report .

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Climbing Management Issues

Awareness

Climber Specific Paths

Development, placement and evaluation of informal yet marked access points. Colorado Climbing Sign.

Parking and Transportation Climbing Trail Sign

Development of informal yet marked access points.

Litter

Leave No Trace Campaign. Carry in - carry out.

Vegetation and Special Status Plants

Rare and endangered talus woodland and cliffside plants identified and protected. Prickly Pear Cactus

Adopt . A – Crag Events

Climbers act as stewards of climbing areas. Adopt a Crag days are common in the USA. Such self-supported events support initiatives of Park and land managers.

See: www.millsbouldering.com PA Adopt a Crag

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NJ’s Adopt A Crag Events

Ongoing since 2002. Held in both State and County Parks

Adopt a Crag

Volunteer Hours Public Service Announcements Trail Work Erosion Control Mapping Garbage Collection Rare Plant Surveys Climbing Resource Inventory Somerset County Park System Governmental Preserve Affairs Adopt a Boulder - 2005

Bolting and Bolts as a Resource Protection Tool

Top-Rope using Top-rope anchor using webbing extends a ropes anchor Trees from fixed tree belays and prevent a rope from running over a sharp, cliff top. Normally not an issue at NJ’s climbing sites (even after 50 years) but as climbing popularity in NJ grows so do does mans impact at climbing sites. Climbing impact includes exposing roots, soil compaction, soil loss, and erosion of cliff top ecosystems. anchors reduce such impact. Local conditions (where a climb ends, topography, land designation and rock stability) dictate weather placement of fixed anchors is practical and or appropriate.

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ANJ is against any bolting of climbs and for fixed Fixed Bolted Anchors protect anchors anywhere in the State of New Jersey. Having cliff-top ecosystems and allows climbing area said that statement ANJ recognizes that the least impact vegetation to be undisturbed of mans footprint at NJ’s climbing areas maybe indeed be a fixed anchor. ANJ follows the position of the Access Fund and the State of New Jersey State Parks on bolts and bolting of climbs.

Access Fund Bolting Two Bolt Anchor Initiatives A low impact bolting initiative has been adopted by the Access Fund, the National Parks System, the Mohonk Preserve, and other environmentally concerned organizations. This use of fixed bolt anchors is successfully managing the climbing resources of other East Coast locations such as at NY’s Shawngunks, NJ’s Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area and Rumney, NH, too name a few sites.

FIXED SAFETY ANCHORS

One controversial issue associated with climbing is the use of fixed safety anchors. The controversy derives from the fact that fixed anchors remain in place, often for long periods of time. One of the A modern fixed safety anchor, Arrow marks load-bearing most common forms of fixed direction for correct placement protection, bolts, require the drilling of a small hole in the rock, typically 3/8” in diameter. These drilled holes and the attached metal anchors focus much of the

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discussion on fixed anchors which may cover issues such as location, density of placement, impact to the rock, visibility from the ground, and how their placement will influence climbing activity and visitor use patterns in a given area.

Land management response to the use of fixed safety anchors may vary from no action, to fixed-anchor inventory, to prohibition of power drills, to more restrictive interventions. Often, changes in pattern of climbing activity or rapid fixed-anchor proliferation is of greater management concern than fixed-anchor use itself. Because fixed-anchor use is integral to many but not all types of climbing opportunities, management response should be undertaken carefully. Focusing on bolts or pitons, rather than patterns of the climbing activity as a whole, may not achieve management objectives. For example, the time and effort required to place a bolt is greatly reduced by use of a battery-powered drill, and the National Park Service has used this fact indirectly to regulate the frequency of bolt placement.

Rather than placing restrictions on bolts, managers in areas such as Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado, have controlled fixed anchor proliferation through restricting the use of power drills in certain locations. In areas where fixed-anchor use has approached maximum desirable levels, other management responses have been used. Joshua Tree National Park, California, has an application process for consideration of new bolted routes within the park. City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks, Colorado, has a permit process for replacement of fixed anchors.

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Unknown Cliff in Farney Highlands State Park

Prior to any management response, an analysis should be made to determine the need for and role of fixed anchors. Local climbing representatives and the Access Fund may be able to assist with gathering information on climbing history and opportunities, both locally and regionally. If management intervention is required, decisions can then be made about whether restrictions are warranted and how significant these should be.

In general, education and outreach should encourage climbers to minimize their use of fixed anchors. Exceptions are the instances where fixed-anchor use helps protect resources, as detailed below.

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PLACEMENT OF BOLTS AS A RESOURCE-PROTECTION TOOL

Strategic bolt placement has been increasingly used to protect sensitive resources such as cliff-edge vegetation and specimen cliff trees that might otherwise be directly used as rope anchors. For example, at Eldorado Canyon State Park, Colorado, managers and the local climbing organization have been able to protect cliff trees that were previously used as rappel stations by placing adjacent bolt anchors. Bolts can be used to protect cliff vegetation.

Technical climbing is defined as the use of specialized equipment to provide a margin of safety while ascending and descending steep terrain. Most of this equipment is carried Bolts used to Protect Resources by each climbing party, to be placed and removed during the ascent. In places, however, the nature of the rock requires a drilled or hammered protection device for safe passage.

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The need for such “fixed anchors” is determined by the first climbers to encounter the passage, and the anchors are then left in place for use by subsequent climbers. Other fixed anchors are left in place when climbers descend from difficult summits by rappelling. From a management perspective, it is difficult and sometimes impossible to allow climbing in an area but prohibit the use of fixed anchors.

The frequency and type of fixed-anchor use varies according to geology and topography, and the type of climbing. Limestone, for example, typically has few natural cracks, and safe climbing will likely require more fixed anchors than on a comparable cliff.

Sport climbing will rely almost entirely on bolts, while traditional climbing typically requires only widely dispersed use of fixed anchors, and bouldering requires no fixed anchors at all. is discouraged in NJ.

Fixed anchors may have effects on natural resource values, scenic and aesthetic values, and visitor use patterns. Sites where studies have provided an analysis of effects on scenic and natural resources include City of Rocks National Reserve, Idaho (U.S. Department of the Interior, 1988) and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, OK (U.S. Department of the Interior, 1995). For further documentation, see Climbing and Natural Resource Management – An Annotated Bibliography (North Carolina State University and The Access Fund, 2000)

“Harmless When No-ones There” Rattlesnake, Stokes State Park

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Appendix

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Schematic Breakdown of a Climbing Area

Typical climbing areas have six zones of access. Climbers impacts are found in all six of these access zones and areas. Identifying these zones allows managers to mark climbing’s direct and or indirect impacts at NJ’s climbing sites

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Types of Rock-Climbing & Definitions

AID Climbing

The direct use of climbing equipment (bolts, pitons, wired nuts, camming devices, etc.) to ascend. Few places in NJ have AID climbs.

Alpine Climbing or Mountaineering

Applies to climbing in alpine and mountainous terrain. Has it’s own specific risks, tools, knowledge and techniques. Basic and fundamental mountaineering occurs on NJ’s climbing resources. Practices found include and are not limited to: ethics, conservation, climbing fundamentals, , route finding, shifts in weather conditions, lack of outside rescue and self-rescue skills, reading terrain features, etc..

Bouldering

Climbing in short, often sequential moves on rocks normally less then 15 feet from the ground. Bouldering is the purest form of climbing. A spotter often protects the climber. “Bouldering in the Sourland Mountain Preserve adds another unique dimension to our existing multi-use trails. In addition, climbers are a great new source of volunteers for the many trail projects that occur in our parks year-round. It is truly a winning situation for everyone!"

Dave Dendler, Park Ranger Manager Somerset County Park Commission

Sourland Mountain Preserve , SCPC The Cauldron; “Toe Jam” V 5

NJ is well suited for bouldering.

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Cragging

Climbing either roped or un-roped on steep rugged cliffs or rocks. NJ.s climbing resource is made of, for the most part climbing on crags. 4 th class roped climbs are found on NJ's crags, down-climbs and gullies. Cragging may involve both rock and techniques on mixed rock/ice routes.

Climbing Injury Patterns

Injury mortality rate is defined as the number of deaths per .x. visitor rate. Injury mortality data is often an important and sometimes dramatic indicator of populations injury rates. The graph is from a multi-year climbing injury epidemiological study at the Mohonk Preserve, New Paltz, New York:

Note:

Patrons Visits by 10,000

Injury Rates by Single Digits

Injury = Injury Mortality

Published injury rates for outdoor climbing is 0.9 per thousand hours, and the rate for serious injury is 0.4 per thousand hours . Outdoor climbing injuries are usually traumatic in origin (62.5%) and most commonly include contusions and lacerations, followed by injuries to the lower limb, particularly ankle and leg fractures. The majority of fatalities in rock climbing are due to injuries to the head or internal organs, and the further the distance of the fall the more likely a fatal outcome.

Diagnosis, Management, and Prevention of Climbing Injuries Medscape Orthopaedics & Sports Medicine eJournal [TM] David Humphries, MD., November 2002. 25 www.climbnj.com CRI 2007 Access NJ

Free or Traditional Climbing

The way the sport of rock-climbing has been practiced since it's inception in the early 1800's has strong historic associations. It is the foundation for a variety of climbing developments. Climbers place and remove gear that does not damage the rocks surface. Climbers arrange their own protection which is different from sport climbing. Climbs are lead either as single or multiple- climbs.

The lead climber is in front, leading the roped party. The protective rope is thus always lower , Delaware Water Gap National than this climber, and if the lead climber falls, he Recreation Area will travel approximately twice the distance from the last piece of protective equipment. The second or third in the roped party tends to be safe, presumably because falls are generally limited by a belay, and do not usually result in the climber striking either the cliff or the ground with significant impact

Guided or Commercial Climbing

The profession of guides in climbing can be traced back 200 plus years. Practitioners of guided climbing are the masters of the craft and nuance of climbing. There are two professional guide associations in the . These are the American Mountain Guides Association and the United States Mountain Guides Association.

Ice Climbing

Climbing frozen or iced vertical cliffs, water-falls, seeps and other frozen sections of cliffs and crags. Ice climbing requires specific equipment and knowledge of the winter environment.

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Indoor Climbing

Artificial climbing in indoor settings. Objective and subjective risks of climbing are basically eliminated. Climbing gyms are found throughout NJ. A large percentage of gym climbers never climb outdoors.

Soloing

Climbing when a fall will lead to injury or death. Ropes and other protective gear is not used. Soloing is . pure climbing ..

Sport Climbing

Climbs are protected predominated by bolts and other fixed anchors. Climbs are usually under 85 feet in height. Climbs are fixed heights and have bolted protection. Sport climbing is not encouraged in NJ.

Top-Roped Climbing

Climbers are belayed from below or from above as a second on a single or multi-pitch climb or as single rope set on a single climb.

Anchors are set from above, (akin to a pulley system). Belayer keeps rope tight as climber ascends. Climbs are no longer then 70 feet in height. using ½ the distance of a normal climbing rope.

4th Class Climbing

Type of climbing that has fallen into disuse in today's climbing environment. Climbing partners move together constantly, in areas climbers may be belayed. NJ's unique geology lends itself to 4 th Class Climbing which is found on the majority of NJ's crags.

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Bouldering: Onsite NJ Historical Site

Lead Climbing

The first person on the rope, ascending leads the route. They place gear and anchors. They route-find. Lead climbers often . leap-frog . leads w/ second and third parties on a rope. The majority of traumatic injuries in outdoor climbing occur in the lead climber.

SKETCHES REFERENCED TO THE ACCESS FUND Used w/ Permission

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Protecting Raptor Sites at Climbing Areas

Nesting raptors and owls near the States climbing areas include and are not limited too broad- winged or red-shouldered hawks, barred, great-horned or screech owls.

For cliffside owl-roost photo click to: see www.climbnj.com

Climbing activity impacts on raptor nests and sites through

1. Altering habitats (foraging, nesting, roosting). 2. Disrupting foraging, nesting and roosting behaviors.

Resource restriction checklist helps assist in monitoring climbers impact.

1. Determine the size of buffer zone. 2. Determine spatial extent of restrictions.

i. Physical features ii. Vertical heights iii. Pattern of Climbing Use iv. Tolerance of Raptors v. Spatial extent

3. Establish time period of closures. 4. Maintain flexibility 5. Provide local information on climbing restrictions

i. News releases ii. Posters in NJ climbing shops iii. Newsletters iv. Web Site v. Other

Reference: Access Fund: Climbing Management, Raptor Sites, 1997/2003

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Public Service Announcement

"Bouldering" on Abandoned Quarried Triassic Diabase Boulders

Sourland Ridge, North Jersey Highlands

"take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints"

(description on second page)

photo credit: e.bergstrom 2004

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Public Service Announcement: Bouldering

1) An attentive spotter who prevents the person bouldering from hitting the ground thus decreasing risk of injury.

2) Black-pads to prevent soil compaction and prevents damage to fragile undersoil. also used to reduce risk of injury (not always used). Bouldering usually takes place 1 to 4 feet off the ground, making the crash pad (safety pad) most effective, thus reducing risk of injury.

3) Chalk-bag - chalks is used on finger to prevent slips of fingers and hands. often abused by climbers. climbers are reducing use of chalk, nationwide. Adopt a Crag events are used to clean up parks and climbing sites.

4) Specialized rubber soled shoes - prevents slips of feet, provides friction on rocks. Some people who boulder bring a tooth-brush which is used to brush holds of fine particles. These shoes are often known as "slippers".

5) Loose fitting clothes that allow movement on rock. Climbers perform trail work in parks and on resource inventories.

6) Location of boulder problem: no plant species, no under-growth, no rare critters. Boulders found next to existing trails and roads. Tree's and branches that touch the boulder sites are not touched. Bouldering is the "zen" of climbing. Bouldering breaks down to 1 person and a rock. Some boulder problems require years to be solved.

7) No bolts or fixed anchors placed. Bouldering is one aspect of climbing. You boulder and walk away.

8) Bouldering is a safe activity and anchors a stewardship of environmental protection. Bouldering moves are specific techniques used to move on a rock or large boulder.

9) Climbers pack out what others carry in and leave behind. Climbers are responsible, historic users of the Highlands.

Access NJ's is a State-wide grass-root organization whose specific mission is advocacy and education to expand climbing access in NJ by working to remove unnecessary regulations, challenging exorbitant access policies and working to have opened new climbing areas in order to protect and conserve NJ's climbing resources and the environment. Access NJ's focus is acting as a resource for climbers and addressing problems faced by climbers in the State of NJ . www.climbnj.com

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POSITION PAPER Climbing Impact

The well being of NJ's talus woodlands falls squarely on those who impact the base of glaciated Highland crags. Climbers, for the most part, are the population that crosses these fragile and more often then not unique eco-systems. Likewise, climbers set up belays and anchors next to, and in doing so do not disturb with man’s intrusion natives such as Asplenium trichomanes L . (maidenhair spleenwort) or her smaller relative; Asplenium platyneuron . There is no need to scrape lichens to climb. Trundling’s fun and the visceral feeling, ummm, it’s no longer appropriate. Follow the route as established. Climb clean. A sun-splashed warm face, turning into the wind, looking down the cliff and over expansive woodlands and there across the mid-cliff ledge sit members of the genus Opuntia.

Careful, girth hitching the white pine on the cliff-top. The sandy soil feels way nice on formally scrunched in climbing shoed toes. A quick scamper through the ridge-top elderberry and blueberry’s, a swig in the cold highlands spring and return to rap down. Leaving as the late summer dusk settles Myotis lucifugus and others similar critters dart about through the forest canopy. On the riverbank moonlight ripples against the dull glow of cities near and far and through the quite Bubo virginianus is heard, the deep throaty call of the darks mystery.

Climbers follow established trails or work closely with land managers in order to identify, place and evaluate access and egress points across talus slopes to boulders, crags and cliffs. Such involvement is the key way to mitigate and avoid disruptions of fragile cliff base and cliff-side eco-systems.

Traditional climbing respects and protects the intercourse of nature. Climbers, as a group, have great regard and respect for the NJ Highlands flora & fauna. The preservation of same is not in conflict with responsible climbing activity .

# # # #

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Access Fund/Access NJ

Access Matrix Access Issues Identified Determine Ownership Interface and Involve Resource Managers / Site Owners / Government / Elected Officials/Others Address and Resolve Issues Awareness of Responsible Stewardship/Conservation Access is not a Blueprint Public-Private Partnership Evaluate and Re-evaluate

ACCESS NJ is an affiliate of the Access Fund.

Bouldering in the Cauldron Somerset Mountain Preserve, SCPC

Proposed Online XXXXX County, NJ Bouldering Access Program Program development is sensitive to concerns & issues expressed, directly and indirectly, by County Freeholders and Park Service

• Important Information About County Bouldering Access Program

• Important Changes to County Bouldering Access Program

• Permit Information for the County Bouldering Access Program

• Important Regulations for the County Bouldering Access Program

• Available Bouldering Areas

• Bouldering Wavier/Access Instructions

• Park Office Hours & Important Phone Numbers

• Download PDF Bouldering Access Program Regulations File

For specific on this program contact: John Anderson - [email protected]

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Spheres of Interest: Public Private Partnerships

IMPACT RESOURCE GROUP MANAGEMENT

Overlaps ACCESS Communication Common Ground Issues Highlands Preservation Watershed Users Stewardship Conservation Responsibility Pequannock River -Federal City “Rips”, Photo Credit: Used w/ Permission, Pequannock River Coalition

Protect “Fragile” the Resource Climbing Resource

Prickly Pear Cactus

Lady Slipper Orchard

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References

The Access Fund

The Access Fund is a national, non-profit organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open and to conserving the climbing environment. With over 15,000 members and affiliates from across the country, the Access Fund advocates on behalf of approximately one million technical rock climbers and mountaineers in the United States. The Access Fund acquires and manages land, works cooperatively with public land managers on conservation projects and management planning, provides funding for conservation projects and scientific studies, develops and distributes educational materials, and represents the interests of climbers on public policy issues. The Access Fund has worked closely with government, from municipalities to federal agencies, on issues of land use, access concerns, and preservation of the climbing environment. The Access Fund.s grant program regularly provides funding for management initiatives that raise awareness about climber responsibilities through stewardship projects, develop or support partnerships with resource management agencies, conservation organizations, land trusts, and local climbing groups, and reduce climber impacts on natural and cultural resources within the climbing environment.

Access NJ

Access NJ is a State-wide climbing organization which plays an advocadcy role to allow rock-climbing on NJ State, Municipal and privately owned and managed lands. Access NJ is a true grass-root organization that follows the teachings of Saul Aliksky, John McKnight, and other grass-root community organizers. See Access NJ.s web site for a complete review of Access NJ. www.climbnj.com . Access NJ goals are defined in the promotion , stewardship, awareness , education and other efforts to allow climbing on public and private lands in NJ.

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ADOPT A CRAG

ALLAMUCHY MOUNTAIN

STEPHENS STATE PARK, NJ

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Trail Map: Allamuchy Climbing Area (not to scale)

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Clearing Brush and Blow Downs: Access Trail (west)

Adopt a Crag Summary

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16 Volunteers spent 2 days onsite doing general site trail work, cleaning-up climbing footprint, placing erosion barriers and assisting under the direction of State Park Personal site issues. Potluck followed work days.

Erosion Control: Base of Main Wall Lower Slabs: Tic Tac Walls

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Clearing Debris & Trail Work East Gully

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Erosion Control: Access Trail Base of Main Wall (left)

SATURDAY EVENING POTLUCK

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CREDITS

Access Fund, Climbing Management Manual , 2004 NJ DEP, Division of State Parks and Forestry Hunterdon & Somerset County Board of Chosen Freeholders, Somerset County Park Commission Freedom Mountaineering of the Hills, 5th edition , The Mountaineers, Seattle, Washington American Mountain Guides Association British Mountaineering Council Climbing Federation John Sherman, Stone Crusade Press Ascent, Steck and Roper Private Photo Collections: FJacobsen, AGordon, Blind Lemon Jefferson JSherman, JS, AMeredith, JWorrell, JRogers, EBergstrom, Others Climbing in North America , Chris Jones Chounaird Equipment Catalog, 1989 Bergstein, Basic Rock Climbing Rockville Climbing Center, Hamilton, New Jersey The Climbing Federation Internet Reference Library of Congress : Manuscripts, Maps and Photos American Alpine Club University Mountaineering Club Archives International Mountain Guides: Ashford, Washington Alpine Endeavors, New Paltz, NY A.Norrin, J. Borowsky, Access NJ, Barry Rushnock, Kurt Peterson (BRMS), John Cree Games Climbers Play, 1 st Edition Dendler,Trontis. Brown, JJM, Nash, Allen, Folesch, (others not listed) Photos used w/ permission. * Others .

Note:

Not listed are those folks who helped put together this material and helped spread de word. To those folks ANJ offers our thanks and acknowledgements. Climbing is about being unselfish. This fundamental tenet of climbing was followed in this report . Like a climbing expedition the goal took precedent over individual work akin to those who carried the loads.

A Special Thanks to NJ State Park Personal and Legislators whose comments and debate helped make this CRI possible .

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notes

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