Fatalities in - Boulder 2014

V. Schöffl

Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Climbing:

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Climbing: Injury Risk

Study Type of climbing (geographical location) Injury rate (per 1000h) Injury severity

(Bowie, Hunt et al. 1988) , ; some rock walls 100m high 37.5 a Majority of minor severity using (Yosemite Valley, CA, USA) ISS score <13; 5% ISS 13-75

(Schussmann, Lutz et al. and traditional climbing (Grand Tetons, WY, 0.56 for injuries; 013 for fatalities; 23% of the injuries were fatal 1990) USA) incidence 5.6 injuries/10000 h of (NACA 7) b mountaineering

(Schöffl and Winkelmann Indoor climbing walls (Germany) 0.079 3 NACA 2; 1999) 1 NACA 3

(Wright, Royle et al. 2001) Overuse injuries in indoor climbing at World Championship NS NACA 1-2 b

(Schöffl and Küpper 2006) Indoor competition climbing, World championships 3.1 16 NACA 1; 1 NACA 2 1 NACA 3 No fatality

(Gerdes, Hafner et al. 2006) NS NS 20% no injury; 60% NACA I; 20% >NACA I b

(Schöffl, Schöffl et al. 2009) (international) 4.07 for NACA I-III 2.87/1000h NACA I, 1.2/1000h NACA II & III None > NACA III

(Nelson and McKenzie 2009) Rock climbing injuries, indoor and outdoor (NS) Measures of participation and frequency of Mostly NACA I-IIb, 11.3% to rock climbing are not hospitalization specified

(Backe S 2009) Indoor and outdoor climbing activities 4.2 (overuse syndromes accounting for NS 93% of injuries)

Neuhhof / Schöffl (2011) Acute injuries (Europe) 0.2 Mostly minor severity

Schöffl et al. (WMED 2013) Indoor sport climbing 0.02 15 UIAA 2 (515337 Indoor Visits in 5 Years) 13 UIAA 3 2 UIAA 4 No fatality

Schöffl, IFSC MedCom IFSC World Cup 2012 0.74 all UIAA 2 No fatality

Fatalities: Traditional and sport climbing

reported 7 deaths during 2006 and 2007 (no differentiation between disciplines eg. sport, trad, ice).  Bowie et al.: 13 of 220 injured climbers died - a case fatality rate of 6%.  Bowie`s Yosemite date are in accordance with the results of Hubicka for European climbing areas.  Josephsen et al.: prospective study on bouldering reported no fatalities at all .  Schöffl et al: Indoor climbing and World Cup 2012 competition climbing: no fatalites  Hartmann and Schöffl 2014 (in progress): 584 climbers one year prospectively – no fatality, 66 injuries

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Mountaineering

 Schussmann et al.: incidence of 0.13 fatalities per 1000 h  Weinbruch et al.: lifetime risk of a fatal accident for elite mountaineers is 0.203, see also table.

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High Peaks: Weinbruch et al.2012

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Injuries and Fatalities in Ice Climbing

Schöffl et al. Sports Med 2010

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Drytooling DAV 2006-7:

Rock and Ice Climbing 12.8% of all injuries,

Hiking and climbing showed with 0.1 doctor attendances per 1000 h of sport performance the lowest injury risk !

Fatalities not further evaluated

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Ice Climbing Accidents US, Canada

USA 1951 – 2004 2005 Accidents reported 249 5

Canada 1951 – 2004 2005 Accidents reported 158 0 Injured 92 Fatilities 30

(appr. 1/year)

Accidents in North American Mountaineering (volume 9, number 1, issue 59, 2006)

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Drytooling Ice Climbing Accidents in Switzerland

 In 6 years 48 persons registred through mountain rescue  2 deaths through falls 3 deaths through avalanches 1 death through ice fall

(appr. 1/year) Mosimann, U. (2006) Notfälle beim Eisklettern. Bergundsteigen. (4): 70-3.

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Conclusion – Ice Climbing

 Ice climbing is a discipline with high objective risk potential, but with a low numbers of injuries and fatalities

. Obviously the higher risk is compensated by the climbers by decreased readiness to assume risk and increased cautioness

 The risk of fatal accidents can not yet be defined.

. Canadian and Swiss data indicate one fatal accident per year

 There is potential to further decrease the incidences

 Further research necessary, actually UIAA MedCom: Ice Climbing competitions

Schwarz, Schöffl 2006

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Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing:

Schöffl et al.2010, Sports Medicine 12 One Move too Many

Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing: UIAA MedCom Score

Schöffl et al.2010, UIAA Score

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Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing: Fatality risk

Schöffl et al.2010, UIAA Score

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Future research

 Prospective cohort analysis

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Dedicated to many friends lost: We will always remember you, RIP

and many more