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Fatalities in Climbing - Boulder 2014

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Fatalities in Climbing - Boulder 2014 Fatalities in Climbing - Boulder 2014 V. Schöffl Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing: 2 One Move too Many Climbing: Injury Risk Study Type of climbing (geographical location) Injury rate (per 1000h) Injury severity (Bowie, Hunt et al. 1988) Traditional climbing, bouldering; some rock walls 100m high 37.5 a Majority of minor severity using (Yosemite Valley, CA, USA) ISS score <13; 5% ISS 13-75 (Schussmann, Lutz et al. Mountaineering and traditional climbing (Grand Tetons, WY, 0.56 for injuries; 013 for fatalities; 23% of the injuries were fatal 1990) USA) incidence 5.6 injuries/10000 h of (NACA 7) b mountaineering (Schöffl and Winkelmann Indoor climbing walls (Germany) 0.079 3 NACA 2; 1999) 1 NACA 3 (Wright, Royle et al. 2001) Overuse injuries in indoor climbing at World Championship NS NACA 1-2 b (Schöffl and Küpper 2006) Indoor competition climbing, World championships 3.1 16 NACA 1; 1 NACA 2 1 NACA 3 No fatality (Gerdes, Hafner et al. 2006) Rock climbing NS NS 20% no injury; 60% NACA I; 20% >NACA I b (Schöffl, Schöffl et al. 2009) Ice climbing (international) 4.07 for NACA I-III 2.87/1000h NACA I, 1.2/1000h NACA II & III None > NACA III (Nelson and McKenzie 2009) Rock climbing injuries, indoor and outdoor (NS) Measures of participation and frequency of Mostly NACA I-IIb, 11.3% exposure to rock climbing are not hospitalization specified (Backe S 2009) Indoor and outdoor climbing activities 4.2 (overuse syndromes accounting for NS 93% of injuries) Neuhhof / Schöffl (2011) Acute Sport Climbing injuries (Europe) 0.2 Mostly minor severity Schöffl et al. (WMED 2013) Indoor sport climbing 0.02 15 UIAA 2 (515337 Indoor Climbing Wall Visits in 5 Years) 13 UIAA 3 2 UIAA 4 No fatality Schöffl, IFSC MedCom IFSC World Cup 2012 0.74 all UIAA 2 No fatality Fatalities: Traditional and sport climbing German Alpine Club reported 7 deaths during 2006 and 2007 (no differentiation between disciplines eg. sport, trad, ice). Bowie et al.: 13 of 220 injured climbers died - a case fatality rate of 6%. Bowie`s Yosemite date are in accordance with the results of Hubicka for European climbing areas. Josephsen et al.: prospective study on bouldering reported no fatalities at all . Schöffl et al: Indoor climbing and World Cup 2012 competition climbing: no fatalites Hartmann and Schöffl 2014 (in progress): 584 climbers one year prospectively – no fatality, 66 injuries 4 One Move too Many Mountaineering Schussmann et al.: incidence of 0.13 fatalities per 1000 h Weinbruch et al.: lifetime risk of a fatal accident for elite mountaineers is 0.203, see also table. 5 One Move too Many High Peaks: Weinbruch et al.2012 6 One Move too Many Injuries and Fatalities in Ice Climbing Schöffl et al. Sports Med 2010 7 One Move too Many Drytooling DAV 2006-7: Rock and Ice Climbing 12.8% of all injuries, Hiking and climbing showed with 0.1 doctor attendances per 1000 h of sport performance the lowest injury risk ! Fatalities not further evaluated 8 One Move too Many Ice Climbing Accidents US, Canada USA 1951 – 2004 2005 Accidents reported 249 5 Canada 1951 – 2004 2005 Accidents reported 158 0 Injured 92 Fatilities 30 (appr. 1/year) Accidents in North American Mountaineering (volume 9, number 1, issue 59, 2006) 9 One Move too Many Drytooling Ice Climbing Accidents in Switzerland In 6 years 48 persons registred through mountain rescue 2 deaths through falls 3 deaths through avalanches 1 death through ice fall (appr. 1/year) Mosimann, U. (2006) Notfälle beim Eisklettern. Bergundsteigen. (4): 70-3. 10 One Move too Many Conclusion – Ice Climbing Ice climbing is a discipline with high objective risk potential, but with a low numbers of injuries and fatalities . Obviously the higher risk is compensated by the climbers by decreased readiness to assume risk and increased cautioness The risk of fatal accidents can not yet be defined. Canadian and Swiss data indicate one fatal accident per year There is potential to further decrease the incidences Further research necessary, actually UIAA MedCom: Ice Climbing competitions Schwarz, Schöffl 2006 11 One Move too Many Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing: Schöffl et al.2010, Sports Medicine 12 One Move too Many Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing: UIAA MedCom Score Schöffl et al.2010, UIAA Score 13 One Move too Many Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing: Fatality risk Schöffl et al.2010, UIAA Score 14 One Move too Many Future research Prospective cohort analysis 15 One Move too Many Dedicated to many friends lost: We will always remember you, RIP and many more .
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