Rock Climbing Manual
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Rock Climbing Inventory of NJ's State Parks and Forest
Allamuchy Mountain, Stephens State Park Rock Climbing Inventory of NJ’s State Parks and Forest Prepared by Access NJ Contents Photo Credit: Matt Carlardo www.climbnj.com June, 2006 CRI 2007 Access NJ Scope of Inventory I. Climbing Overview of New Jersey Introduction NJ’s Climbing Resource II. Rock-Climbing and Cragging: New Jersey Demographics NJ's Climbing Season Climbers and the Environment Tradition of Rock Climbing on the East Coast III. Climbing Resource Inventory C.R.I. Matrix of NJ State Lands Climbing Areas IV. Climbing Management Issues Awareness and Issues Bolts and Fixed Anchors Natural Resource Protection V. Appendix Types of Rock-Climbing (Definitions) Climbing Injury Patterns and Injury Epidemiology Protecting Raptor Sites at Climbing Areas Position Paper 003: Climbers Impact Climbers Warning Statement VI. End-Sheets NJ State Parks Adopt a Crag 2 www.climbnj.com CRI 2007 Access NJ Introduction In a State known for its beaches, meadowlands and malls, rock climbing is a well established year-round, outdoor, all weather recreational activity. Rock Climbing “cragging” (A rock-climbers' term for a cliff or group of cliffs, in any location, which is or may be suitable for climbing) in NJ is limited by access. Climbing access in NJ is constrained by topography, weather, the environment and other variables. Climbing encounters access issues . with private landowners, municipalities, State and Federal Governments, watershed authorities and other landowners and managers of the States natural resources. The motives and impacts of climbers are not distinct from hikers, bikers, nor others who use NJ's open space areas. Climbers like these others, seek urban escape, nature appreciation, wildlife observation, exercise and a variety of other enriching outcomes when we use the resources of the New Jersey’s State Parks and Forests (Steve Matous, Access Fund Director, March 2004). -
Ice and Mixed Festival Equipment Notes Chicks N Picks Ice Climbing Clinic
Ice and Mixed Festival Equipment Notes Chicks N Picks Ice Climbing Clinic Due to the nature of the mountain environment, equipment and clothing must be suitable for its intended purpose. It must be light, remain effective when wet or iced, and dry easily. These notes will help you make informed choices, which will save you time and money. Bring the mandatory clothing and wet weather gear, and any equipment you already own that is on the equipment checklist. This gives you an opportunity to practice with your gear and equipment, so that you become efficient at using it out in the field. Adventure Consultants is able to offer clients good prices on a range of clothing and equipment. Please feel free to contact us, if you need assistance with making a purchase or advice on specific products. BODY WEAR There are numerous fabrics, which are both water resistant and breathable such as Gore-Tex, Event, Polartec Neoshell, Pertex Shield and Entrant etc. These fabrics are expensive but can last for years if well looked after. Shell clothing should be seam sealed during the manufacturing process (tape sealed on the seams) or it will leak through the stitching. It also should be easy to move in and easy to put on and take off, when wearing gloves or mitts. Shell clothing made of PVC or similar totally waterproof non-breathable material is not suitable as moisture cannot escape when you are exerting energy, resulting in getting wet from the inside out! Therefore fabric breathability is very important when you are active in the mountains. -
Fatalities in Climbing - Boulder 2014
Fatalities in Climbing - Boulder 2014 V. Schöffl Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing: 2 One Move too Many Climbing: Injury Risk Study Type of climbing (geographical location) Injury rate (per 1000h) Injury severity (Bowie, Hunt et al. 1988) Traditional climbing, bouldering; some rock walls 100m high 37.5 a Majority of minor severity using (Yosemite Valley, CA, USA) ISS score <13; 5% ISS 13-75 (Schussmann, Lutz et al. Mountaineering and traditional climbing (Grand Tetons, WY, 0.56 for injuries; 013 for fatalities; 23% of the injuries were fatal 1990) USA) incidence 5.6 injuries/10000 h of (NACA 7) b mountaineering (Schöffl and Winkelmann Indoor climbing walls (Germany) 0.079 3 NACA 2; 1999) 1 NACA 3 (Wright, Royle et al. 2001) Overuse injuries in indoor climbing at World Championship NS NACA 1-2 b (Schöffl and Küpper 2006) Indoor competition climbing, World championships 3.1 16 NACA 1; 1 NACA 2 1 NACA 3 No fatality (Gerdes, Hafner et al. 2006) Rock climbing NS NS 20% no injury; 60% NACA I; 20% >NACA I b (Schöffl, Schöffl et al. 2009) Ice climbing (international) 4.07 for NACA I-III 2.87/1000h NACA I, 1.2/1000h NACA II & III None > NACA III (Nelson and McKenzie 2009) Rock climbing injuries, indoor and outdoor (NS) Measures of participation and frequency of Mostly NACA I-IIb, 11.3% exposure to rock climbing are not hospitalization specified (Backe S 2009) Indoor and outdoor climbing activities 4.2 (overuse syndromes accounting for NS 93% of injuries) Neuhhof / Schöffl (2011) Acute Sport Climbing injuries (Europe) 0.2 Mostly minor severity Schöffl et al. -
Other Chapters Contents
--------- multipitchclimbing.com --------- This site presents the images from the ebook High: Advanced Multipitch Climbing, by David Coley and Andy Kirkpatrick. In order to keep the cost of the book to a minimum most of these were not included in the book. Although they work best when used in conjunction with the book, most are self-explanatory. Please use the following links to buy the book: Amazon USA (kindle) / Amazon UK (kindle) / itunes / kobo Back to Other Chapters Contents 1. Fall Factors / 2. Dynamic Belaying / 3 The 3-5-8 Rule / 4. Belay Device and Rope Choice / 5. Forces Depend on Angles / 6. Failing Daisies / 7. How Fast Do You Climb? / 8. What is a kN? / 9. What is a “Solid” Placement? / 10. A simple mathematical model of a climbing rope / 11. The problem with high energy falls In this chapter we expand on the basic idea of fall factors to account for rope drag, look at testing data from Petzl and Beal on real-word falls, consider if the angles between the arms of a belay really matters that much, look at how your daisy might kill you, introduce a unit of climbing speed (the Steck), discuss what the “kN” on the side of your carabiners means, present one way of defining just what is a solid placement and introduce a simple mathematical model of a rope. 1. Fall Factors The longer the fall the more energy that needs to be absorbed by the rope. The fall factor provides a useful way of distinguishing between falls of equal length (and therefore equal energy) but that have different amounts of rope out to soak up the energy of the fall. -
Sometimes the Leader Does Fall... a Look Into the Experiences of Ice Climbers Who Have Fallen on Ice Screws
SOMETIMES THE LEADER DOES FALL... A LOOK INTO THE EXPERIENCES OF ICE CLIMBERS WHO HAVE FALLEN ON ICE SCREWS Kel Rossiter Ed.D., Educational Leadership & Policy Studies--M.S., Kinesiology/Outdoor Education AMGA Certified Rock & Alpine Guide INTRODUCTION/BACKGROUND Last winter a climber with Adventure Spirit Rock+Ice+Alpine was asking me about the holding power of ice screws. We discussed the various lab studies that have been done (a list of links to some interesting ones can be found at the bottom of this paper) then he said, “That's great, but has anyone ever specifically done research into how they actually perform in the field?” He had a point. While the dictum in ice climbing is that “the leader never falls,” in the end, they sometimes do. So presumably there was an ample population from which to sample— but I was unaware of any actual field research done with this population. So, fueled by that question, I decided to explore the topic. The results of this inquiry appear below. Though I have a background in research, make no mistake: This presentation of findings should not be viewed through the same lens as academic research. Aside from running it by a few academic-climber friends there has been only an informal peer review, there are significant short-comings in the methodology (noted below), and ideas are put forth that don't necessarily build directly on prior research (largely because—as noted—there really hasn't been much research on the topic and much less field research). In addition, this write up is not done in the typical “5 Part” research format of Introduction, Methodology, Results, Analysis, and Conclusion. -
Guide to Climbing Gear
guide to climbing gear by Michael Strong If you leaf through any popular climbing magazine for awhile, it's clear that there is a LOT of climbing gear on the market. Making a choice of what shoes, harness, rope, etc. to buy can be overwhelming, especially for someone relatively new to the activity. For this reason, it's advantageous to begin by taking an introductory course in a program such as ours, where equipment is provided and a community of experienced climbers is available to provide input about what choices to make. Still, climbers have their preferences, and opinions differ as to the merits and shortcomings of a certain item of gear. As a result, it's important to research what's best for you in the context of the type of climbing is in your future. Here are some recommendations: Start with a pair of shoes and a chalk bag. Bouldering has become wildly popular and you can work on your techniques and fitness with nothing more than these items. Buy a harness and belay device next. Evaluate your climbing needs and think beyond the immediate future. A harness suitable for a local crag might not be the best choice for the mountaineering environment, so it's best if you have a clear understanding of where, and what type of climbing you will be enjoying in the present, and what you aspire to. At some point you will most likely purchase a rope so that you can set your own top rope anchors and climb outdoors. If so, you'll need to invest in webbing slings, carabiners and other hardware necessary for configuring climbing anchors. -
White Mountain National Forest Pemigewasset Ranger District November 2015
RUMNEY ROCKS CLIMBING MANAGEMENT PLAN White Mountain National Forest Pemigewasset Ranger District November 2015 Introduction The Rumney Rocks Climbing Area encompasses approximately 150 acres on the south-facing slopes of Rattlesnake Mountain on the White Mountain National Forest (WMNF) in Rumney, New Hampshire. Scattered across these slopes are approximately 28 rock faces known by the climbing community as "crags." Rumney Rocks is a nationally renowned sport climbing area with a long and rich climbing history dating back to the 1960s. This unique area provides climbing opportunities for those new to the sport as well as for some of the best sport climbers in the country. The consistent and substantial involvement of the climbing community in protection and management of this area is a testament to the value and importance of Rumney Rocks. This area has seen a dramatic increase in use in the last twenty years; there were 48 published climbing routes at Rumney Rocks in Ed Webster's 1987 guidebook Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire and are over 480 documented routes today. In 2014 an estimated 646 routes, 230 boulder problems and numerous ice routes have been documented at Rumney. The White Mountain National Forest Management Plan states that when climbing issues are "no longer effectively addressed" by application of Forest Plan standards and guidelines, "site specific climbing management plans should be developed." To address the issues and concerns regarding increased use in this area, the Forest Service developed the Rumney Rocks Climbing Management Plan (CMP) in 2008. Not only was this the first CMP on the White Mountain National Forest, it was the first standalone CMP for the US Forest Service. -
Kitsap Basic Climbing
! KITSAP MOUNTAINEERS BASIC CLIMBING COURSE Class 4 and Field Trips 4 & 5 BASIC CLIMBING - CLASS #4 ROCK CLIMBING Class #4 Topics Rock Climbing Process Rock Climbing Techniques Anchors Field Trip Leader Q & A (Field Trip 4) Assigned Reading (complete prior to Class #4) Assigned Reading: Freedom Of The Hills Subject Alpine Rock Climbing ...............................................................Ch 12 Basic Climbing Course Manual All Class #4 Material Additional Resources Find a good book on stretching exercises—it is helpful to loosen up before rock climbing. ROPED CLIMBING OVERVIEW Roped climbing involves the leader and follower(s) attached to a rope for protection as they ascend and descend, so that in the event of a fall the rope can be used to catch the falling climber. In basic rock climbing, the leader is tied into one end of a rope and the follower (second) into the other end. The follower may also attach to a “ground anchor” and will prepare to belay the leader by feeding the rope through his/her belay device. When the follower (belayer) is ready (follower yells: “BELAY ON”), the leader ascends a section of rock (leader: “CLIMBING”, follower: “CLIMB”) while placing protection gear and connecting the climbing rope to the protection as he/she climbs upward. In event of a fall (leader: “FALLING!”), the belayer stops the fall by “braking” the rope at the belay device, and tightening the rope through the protections. When the leader has reached the top of the section (pitch), the leader sets up an anchor and attaches him/ her. The leader tells the follower to take him/her off belay (leader: “OFF BELAY”). -
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines Compiled for the Victorian Climbing Community Revision: V04 Published: 15 Sept 2020 1 Contributing Authors: Matthew Brooks - content manager and writer Ashlee Hendy Leigh Hopkinson Kevin Lindorff Aaron Lowndes Phil Neville Matthew Tait Glenn Tempest Mike Tomkins Steven Wilson Endorsed by: Crag Stewards Victoria VICTORIAN CLIMBING MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES V04 15 SEPTEMBER 2020 2 Foreword - Consultation Process for The Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines The need for a process for the Victorian climbing community to discuss widely about best rock-climbing practices and how these can maximise safety and minimise impacts of crag environments has long been recognised. Discussions on these themes have been on-going in the local Victorian and wider Australian climbing communities for many decades. These discussions highlighted a need to broaden the ways for climbers to build collaborative relationships with Traditional Owners and land managers. Over the years, a number of endeavours to build and strengthen such relationships have been undertaken; Victorian climbers have been involved, for example, in a variety of collaborative environmental stewardship projects with Land Managers and Traditional Owners over the last two decades in particular, albeit in an ad hoc manner, as need for such projects have become apparent. The recent widespread climbing bans in the Grampians / Gariwerd have re-energised such discussions and provided a catalyst for reflection on the impacts of climbing, whether inadvertent or intentional, negative or positive. This has focussed considerations of how negative impacts on the environment or cultural heritage can be avoided or minimised and on those climbing practices that are most appropriate, respectful and environmentally sustainable. -
Winter Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel Day 3 – Ski Mountainee
Day 1 – Winter Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel ● Lesson 1: Introduction to Glacier Kit ● Lesson 2: Equalized anchor, knots and rappelling ● Lesson 3: Ascending the rope – prussic, ratchet, reverse ● Lesson 4: Situational awareness, review hazards ● Lesson 5: Glacier travel rope handling & crevasse rescue ● Lesson 6: Dividing the rope ● Lesson 7: The prussik ● Lesson 8: Arresting the fall, holding the victim and anchor building ● Lesson 9: Backing up anchor and approaching the lip ● Lesson 10: Canadian drop loop system demo ● Lesson 11: Incorporating a ratchet ● Lesson 12: First raise method, z-pulley raising system, adding advantage. ● Lesson 13: Reversing the raise & lowering ● Lesson 14: Crevasse Rescue Scenario ● Lesson 15: Problem-solving specific scenario Day 2 – Winter Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel ● Lesson 16: Rope up point strategy (map & altimeter) & white out plan ● Lesson 17: Glacier formation, physiology, terminology and travel including rope handling and taking coils ● Lesson 18: Safe glacier travel route finding & track setting – crevasse avoidance, serac hazard mitigation, dealing with avalanche terrain, crevasse bridge integrity and evaluation ● Lesson 19: Traveling in echelon & belaying across crevasse bridges ● Lesson 20: Downhill glacier skiing safety strategy Day 3 – Ski Mountaineering Skills Day ● Lesson 1: “Snow and ice school” – introduction to ski mountaineering equipment, ski crampons and boot crampons, ice axe. ● Lesson 2: Ascending/descending and moving in steeper firmer/crusted/icy slopes. ● Lesson 3: Belaying and rappelling, anchors. ● Lesson 4: Roped vs. unroped terrain – belaying, rope management, short roping, boot packing, stowing the skis on the pack, ridge walking. Day 4 – Ski Mountaineering Skills Day ● Lesson 5: Ski mountaineering objective: situational awareness, route finding and track setting in Class 3 (complex) terrain. -
Ice Climbing Anchor Strength: an In-Depth Analysis
Ice Climbing Anchor Strength: An In-Depth Analysis J. Marc Beverly, BS-EMS, M-PAS, Certified Guide Stephen W. Attaway, PhD Abstract: Ice climbing anchors are seemingly simple, yet have a mystique that surrounds their use and overall strengths. Not all ice climbing anchors are used in a standard configuration. Placing an ice screw into an already existing ice screw hole is called re-boring. Re-boring of ice screws is a common practice among ice climbers. Re-boring is typically preferred when placing a screw to avoid creating adjacent holes that could serve as a potential fracture propagation point. We evaluated re-boring strengths for several ice screw designs to determine the strength as a function of length of screw. Slow pull tests were performed, and the results were compared with prior data from drop testing on ice screws. Static pull testing using lake ice was compared with drop testing on waterfall ice and found to be a good substitute test medium. In addition, we evaluated Abalakov anchors (a.k.a. V-thread anchors), with 7mm Perlon cord as well as 1” tubular webbing in different configurations. Their strengths were then compared with that of the single re- bored ice screws. The nature of ice is a continually changing medium and hard to predict in the field. However, the actual strengths shown from our testing methods in the real-world environment make a strong case for the strength of re-boring. Recently, re-bored holes in a freezing environment were found to be strong enough in most configurations. Abalakov ice anchors were also found to be strong, provided that enough ice area was enclosed by the anchor. -
4º Eso Physical Educacion
4º ESO - PE Workbook - IES Joan Miró – Physical Education Department CLIMBING 4º ESO PHYSICAL EDUCACION 1 4º ESO - PE Workbook - IES Joan Miró – Physical Education Department 1. CLIMBING 1.1. INTRODUCTION Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment) and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations. 2. ROCK-CLIMBING EQUIPMENT 2.1. ROPE Ropes used for climbing can be divided into two classes: dynamic ropes and low elongation ropes (static ropes). Dynamic ropes are designed to absorb the energy of a falling climber, and are usually used as belaying ropes. When a climber falls, the rope stretches, reducing the maximum force experienced by the climber and the equipment. Low elongation or static ropes stretch much less, and are usually used in anchoring systems. They are also used for abseiling (rappeling) and as fixed ropes climbed with ascenders. 2.2. CARABINERS Carabiners are metal loops with spring-loaded gates (openings), used as connectors. Once made primarily from steel, almost all carabiners for recreational climbing are made from a lightweight aluminum alloy. Steel carabiners are harder wearing, but much heavier and often used by instructors when working with groups. 2.3. QUICKDRAWS Quickdraws (often referred to as "draws") are used by climbers to connect ropes to bolt anchors, or to other traditional protection, allowing the rope move through the anchoring system with minimal friction.