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mechanical, photocopying written orotherwisewithoutprior ofthe permission Portland, Lulworth andSwanage copyright owner. A CIPcatalogue record isavailable from Library theBritish All rights reserved.All rights ofthispublication may Nopart bereproduced, stored in a retrieval system, ortransmitted inany form orby any means, electronic, A guidebookto thesportand Gaz Fry onthepopularareteofMonsoonMalabar (6a)-page76 Gaz Fry Printed inEurope onbehalfofLatitudePress Ltd. Text andtopos by Glaister Mark andPete Oxley All uncredited photography by Glaister Mark Edited by and Stephen Horne Alan James Distributed by Cordee (www.cordee.co.uk) Published by ROCKFAX 2012 inFebruary attheextensiveBlacknor CentralcliffonPortland. traditional climbingon Bridget CollieronStalker'sZone(6a+)-page158 © ROCKFAX 2012, 2005,2000,1994 source data from openstreetmap.org Mark Glaister Mark Other photography ascredited Some maps based on original Some mapsbasedonoriginal Pete Oxley ISBN 9781873341476 All mapsby ROCKFAX Wallsend cragsonPortland. www.rockfax.com Cover photo: This page: 1

Swanage Lulworth Portland

(6c+) -page170 -ontheseaside CoastguardNorth cliff,Portland. Trev Fordtopping outonthefantastic sportpitchNothingbut theGroove General Index . . Route Index Subluminal . Boulder Ruckle Cattle Troughs The Promenade . Fisherman's Ledge Blackers Hole Cormorant Ledge Guillemot Ledge andSmokeyHedbury Hole. . Quarry History Map . East. Lulworth . Durdle Doorto Church Rock . History Map Lulworth Area . The Cuttings CheyneWeares Area . Lighthouse Area White Hole. Coastguard Cliffs . Wallsend Cove . Cliffs Blacknor Cliffs History Map Portland Destination Planner-Swanage, . Lulworth Destination Planner-Portland Graded List- Traditional Routes RoutesGraded List-Sport . Deep WaterSoloing Grades . Safety and Gear Bolting Access . Dorset . Climbing Walls andShops. Shops, Food andDrink Accommodation -Swanage, . Lulworth Accommodation -Portland Getting There . When to Go. Dorset Logistics Advertiser Directory . Acknowledgments Introduction ...... 370 362 322 320 296 224 424 400 350 286 268 266 262 258 252 250 248 248 246 334 416 194 186 178 164 132 108 310 274 58 46 44 34 48 42 40 38 28 26 24 20 54 53 50 36 32 22 14 18 16 16 12 10 4

Contents 3

Swanage Lulworth Portland 4 Dorset Introduction Portland Portland Foreward by Mick Ward Lulworth Lulworth The first Dorset Rockfax, back in 1994, came as a revelation. Portland, ‘a cheesy, unfashionable Gogarth that no-one ever went to’, had seemingly been transformed into a sport Swanage Swanage climbing playground. Surely it was too good to be true? The stunning front cover shot of Pete Oxley on Mark of the Beast Glasgow must have been shot with filters, mustn’t it? The and sky couldn’t possibly be those sublime hues of azure... could they? Dublin Manchester After spending most of the intervening 18 years climbing in Dorset, I now realise that it was all perfectly true. Amazing colours of sky and sea. Superb coastline. More good routes than you’ll manage in a lifetime. The ‘Swanage experience’ of committing trad perfectly complements Portland’s clipping. You’ve got lots of and Deep Water Soloing. There’s something for Dorchester everyone – from Diff to 8c. Although no single Wool Wareham aspect of Dorset climbing is perhaps world-class,

when viewed as a totality, the place is near enough Weymouth Lulworth a world-class venue. Given that much of the UK Swanage climbing population lives in the crag-starved areas p.246

of London and the Southeast, Dorset is of obvious Portland p.262

strategic importance. Nowadays, of course, it also p.50 attracts increasing numbers of visitors from abroad, drawn by its neo-Mediterranean and the huge variety of climbing on offer.

While many people have contributed to development, one person has attained legendary status. Pete Oxley’s lonely orgy of labour has made Dorset the climbing paradise that it is today. Although he now lives far away, the cliffs will always be imbued with his restless spirit.

The best way that we can celebrate Pete’s vision is to go out and enjoy ourselves. It doesn’t matter whether it’s chasing that elusive Portland or scaring ourselves witless in the Ruckle. It might be an exhilarating DWS. It might be our first, tentative forays onto rock outdoors. It doesn’t matter. What matters is that we climb safely, we climb at least half as well as we’d like and we enjoy the craic with our mates. Dorset gives us the chance to do all this and more.

Mick Ward, January 2012 Under the Sky, Inside theSea(7a)- afternoononthesteep lowerareteof Marti Hallett enjoyingaperfect Introduction page 176-atCoastguard South. Dorset 5

Swanage Lulworth Portland Introduction

Dorset

Bridget Collier bridging up the popular Amen Corner (5) - page 236 - at The Cuttings, one of the east coast of Portland's most sheltered cliffs. Photo: Paul Cox 6 Portland Lulworth Swanage Introduction Dorset 7

The and its west coast crags are picked out in evening light. In the foreground is the arc of , St.

Catherine's Chapel and hundreds of swans from paddling in the Fleet - the body of enclosed water behind Chesil Portland Portland Beach. Lulworth Lulworth Swanage Swanage

The Book The pace of development and the continued rise of the popularity of climbing at both Portland and Swanage have meant that this latest Dorset Rockfax guidebook is on the shelves only a little over six years since the publication of the previous Rockfax in late 2005. The at Portland and Swanage has been extended with many new routes being added across both areas. The trad climbing at Swanage has also seen a rise in popularity and, as a result, more routes and even a few new crags have been added this time. On Portland, most of the trad routes on the cliffs covered are mentioned in the text, but no lines are presented on the topos. For detailed descriptions refer to the Climbers' Club guidebook - Portland. This edition of the Dorset Rockfax is presented in the latest award-winning format, with full-page colour topos and action photography along with many new and updated features such as GPS, a Top 50, new maps and clearer lines and annotation.

In order to make space for the larger topos and increased coverage, we have dropped most of the bouldering. The most popular area - The Cuttings Boulderfield - is available in a 2012 PDF MiniGuide by Ben Stokes. sport climbing has also been omitted but does feature in the Rockfax book West Country Climbs, published in 2010. There is still reasonable coverage of the deep water soloing but for a full picture track down Mike Robertson's superb guidebook Deep Water.

All these books are available from www.rockfax.com 1994 2005 2000 Guidebook Footnote Introduction (Climbers' Club - 1996) (Climbers' Cook and Damian Dorset www.rockfax.com

The inclusion of a in this guidebook does not mean that you have a right climb upon of access or the right to have in this guidebook does not mean that you The inclusion of a climbing area should be placed on and no reliance only reasons historical for recorded within this guide are The descriptions of routes it. Climbers of the climbs. assessment of the difficulty a fair set in this guide are The grades of the description. the accuracy to enough proficient are whether they judgment as to of a particular should use their own standard a route who attempt and distributors publisher The authors, judgment. and proper experience for This book is not a substitute that route. tackle parties, third or property climbers, arising or by, injury liability any for or damage caused to, of this book do not recognise safety. their own for on this guidebook as an assurance seeking reliance such persons from this guide. of routes and return a list with tick boxes, and page references in and page references boxes, and return a list with tick of routes search function to select a location, band and star range range band and star select a location, grade function to search personal and printable tick-list of routes by using the advanced using the advanced by of routes tick-list and printable personal Don't forget that it is possible to use the database to construct a to use the database to that it is possible Don't forget general. changes or your own opinions on grades, stars and the routes in and the routes stars opinions on grades, own changes or your can start using it again to keep everyone informed about any about any informed everyone keep can start to using it again reflect the routes as described in this edition of the book so you as described so in this edition of the book routes the reflect The current version of the database has been updated to to has been updated of the database version The current developments. Thanks to all those who have contributed. all those who have Thanks to developments. book, getting the grades and stars right and keeping a check on a check right and keeping and stars the grades book, getting routes. All this information has been vital in putting together this together in putting has been vital All this information routes. and has logged a huge number of comments and votes on the of comments and votes and has logged a huge number well). The Dorset section has been available for over a decade over for been available section has The Dorset well). of every route in the book (and most other Rockfax books as in the book (and most other Rockfax route of every This database contains a listing contains This database Database - Route Rockfax areas. areas. the printed books produced by Rockfax and also covering new new and also covering Rockfax by books produced the printed plus many PDF MiniGUIDES and updates both complementing and updates PDF MiniGUIDES plus many climbing all over . It contains the Rockfax Route Database Database Route the Rockfax It contains Europe. climbing all over The Rockfax website is a mine of useful information about of useful information is a mine website The Rockfax (Climbers' Club - 1961) Club - (Climbers' B.Annette Coast by on the Dorset Climbs Site Web (Climbers' Club - 1969) Club (Climbers' R.C.White Climbs by Dorset (Climbers' Club - 1977) Club - (Climbers' Crewe R.J. by Dorset (Climbers' Club - 1986) Club (Climbers' Jenkin Gordon by Swanage - 1994) (ROCKFAX Oxley Pete (1st Edition) by Dorset by Jonathan Cook, Mike Robertson, Steve Taylor Taylor Robertson, Steve Mike Cook, Jonathan by Blue (DWS) the Into - 1995) Club (Climbers' Nigel Coe by and Portland Swanage (ROCKFAX - 2000) (ROCKFAX Oxley Pete by (2nd Edition) Dorset (ROCKFAX - 2005) (ROCKFAX Oxley Pete Mark Glaister, Edition) by (3rd Dorset (ROCKFAX - 2007) Robertson (ROCKFAX Mike by Deep Water Previous Guides Previous Club - 2008) (Climbers' Kimber Jim Ben Stokes, Taylor, Steve by Portland 8 Portland Lulworth Swanage 174 -Coastguard Southonthewest coastofPortland.Photo: SzymonDziukiewicz Cristiano Costa daSilvapulling though ontotheupper sectionofTennessee Introduction Dorset (7c) -page 9

Swanage Lulworth Portland As I write this I am still recovering from a from still recovering this I am As I write old is Getting Xmas! before 6 twograde days to refer I a sportsman, for however easy never that hit the 6 after-shock another magnitude city in New of Christchurch ravaged quake help bring to So to live. I now Zealand where fourth of edition anticipated light this eagerly has been a cathartic- expe Rockfax the Dorset my that reinforces been a pleasure It’s rience. is one of the bestoriginal vision that Dorset spots in the world. climbing and most varied Alan Horne Stephen and Mark Glaister, in job again done a great have James and format a new in to updating the photos The guide has fully sections. many reworking - the sheer enthu due to and grown matured Rob Ward, such as Mick routers siasm of new and many Bob Hickish Taylor, Steve Kennard, for thanked also be These people must others. All sport of old regearing the continued climbs. the bolt fund to contributed those who have from a high five should receive the years over every Dorset to drive that now the hordes weekend. and thank remember wish to I personally that I climbed characters of great the scores in to these cliffs help develop alongside to In particular the Cook today. are what they Dunsby, Tim Martin Crocker, Tilley, Clan, Brian Robertson, Mike Taylor, Steve Nigel Coe, Williams, Williams, Jon Mark Williams, Steve Jimbo, Andy Bell, Chris Parker, Biddle, Jon White, Richard Kennard, Morris, Rob Mike Barry others. and many Clarke Ward, Mick at the and Ivan thank Dawn I also wish to their warm support Loaf for Sugar of climbers Last but available. teas and the best cream for Rostron Jan to again love not least all my out and about on in 2012, together 20 years the cliffs. No name - Not Forgotten, the route quote To ‘Old visit soon and to - I’ll be back Away Fade is still oiled and primed under! down Painless’ edition four. Enjoy 2012 January Oxley, Pete Acknowledgments Acknowledgments Dorset

Mark Glaister, January 2012 January Glaister, Mark Rockfax to Dorset in 18 years. in 18 Dorset to Rockfax in helping to produce this book - the 4th produce in helping to and Stephen Horne for their skills and input Horneand Stephen for a mammoth task. Thanks to Alan James Alan James Thanks to a mammoth task. The production of this guidebook has been The production feedback coming in. coming in. feedback all those who have contributed, keep the keep contributed, all those who have UKC Route Database. I am very grateful to to I am very grateful Database. UKC Route book has come from the Rockfax and the Rockfax book has come from A huge amount of the information in this A huge amount of the information Dave Mason. Dave Mike Robertson, Mike Hutton, Daimon Beail, Daimon Robertson, Hutton, Mike Mike Sarah Stirling, Dan Lane, Ben Fordesman, Ben Fordesman, Lane, Dan Stirling, Sarah Cox, Oli Lyon, Marti Hallett, Tom Beaumont, Tom Marti Hallett, Oli Lyon, Cox, Keith Sharples, Szymon Dziukiewicz, Paul Paul Sharples, Szymon Dziukiewicz, Keith the multitude of fantastic action photos - action photos of fantastic the multitude Thank you also to those who have supplied those who have also to Thank you Hazel, Daimon Beail. Daimon Hazel, Waldron, Sarah Ahmed, Jason Ahmed, Sue Ahmed, Jason Sarah Waldron, Helen Heanes, Si Rooms, Kimberley Kimberley Si Rooms, Helen Heanes, Phil Black, Bridget Collier, Neal Heanes, Neal Heanes, Bridget Collier, Phil Black, Dave Henderson, Carrie Hill, Ali Martindale, Hill, Carrie Henderson, Dave Samways, John Warner, Mark Tomlinson, Tomlinson, Mark Warner, John Samways, Paul Cox, Sarah Stirling, Dan Wicks, John John Wicks, Dan Stirling, Sarah Cox, Paul John Leonard, Tom Beaumont, Anna Rayner, Anna Rayner, Beaumont, Tom Leonard, John Adam Perrett, Sarah Perrett, Mick Ward, Ward, Mick Perrett, Sarah Perrett, Adam Ashmore, Bob Hickish, Chris Weedon, Weedon, Chris Bob Hickish, Ashmore, Fry, Jude Summers, Bruce Walker, Julie Julie Walker, Bruce Summers, Jude Fry, Palmer, Rob Sutton, Clarke Alston, Gaz Gaz Alston, Clarke Sutton, Rob Palmer, Proctor, Guy Blackwood, Steve Watt, Ken Ken Watt, Steve Guy Blackwood, Proctor, Chris Gore, Rob Knight, Jonny Woods, Lee Woods, Knight, Jonny Rob Chris Gore, Dave Pickford, Clare Dyson, Arran Deakin, Deakin, Arran Dyson, Clare Pickford, Dave Stokes, Nigel Tuckley, Bev Hull, Al Ashmore, Nigel Tuckley, Stokes, Gavin Symonds, Danie Rushmer, Ben Rushmer, Danie Symonds, Gavin Dan Knight, Christine Forkin, Emma Medara, Christine Emma Medara, Knight, Forkin, Dan Chegs Evans, Rich White, Rob Kennard, Kennard, Rob White, Rich Chegs Evans, Mark Williams, Marti Hallett, Andy Long, Andy Long, MartiWilliams, Hallett, Mark Mike Robertson, Barry Clarke, Steve Taylor, Taylor, Robertson, BarryMike Steve Clarke, Woodley, Beth Woodley, Brian Wilkinson, Beth Woodley, Woodley, especially the following: all the Cooks, Bruce all the Cooks, the following: especially ment of climbing and climbs in the area, the area, and climbs in ment of climbing - the develop with this guide and helped have with on the Dorset coast, and to those who who those and to coast, the Dorset with on Many thanks to all who I have shared a rope a rope shared I have all who to thanks Many 10 Portland Lulworth Swanage page 84-onthesuperb wallsofBlacknor Central,Portland. Sarah Stirling makingthetricky finishingmovesofReturntoRoissy (6b+)- Acknowledgments Dorset 11

Swanage Lulworth Portland

Advertiser Directory

Advertiser Directory Advertiser Dorset 12 Portland Lulworth Swanage www.tauntonleisure.com East Reach, Taunton. Tel: 01823 275121 Taunton Leisure -Insideback cover Shops www.theleedswall.co.uk Gelderd Road, Leeds. Tel: 0113 2341554 Leeds Wall -PageThe 19 www.theclimbingacademy.com Charlton Street, . Tel: 0117 9072956 Climbing AcademyThe -Page 25 www.awesomewalls.co.uk Tel: 01782 341919 Sefton Road, Stoke-on-Trent. Tel: 0161 4949949 The EngineHouse, Stockport. Tel: 01512 982422 St. Alban’s Church, Liverpool. Awesome Walls -Page 2 Climbing Walls www.betaclimbingdesigns.com Tel: 0114 2558882 Beta ClimbingDesigns-Page 37 www.blackdiamondequipment.com Tel: 01629 580484 Black Diamond-Outsideback cover Equipment Manufacturers Directory Advertiser www.bagwellfarm.co.uk Tel: 01305 782575 Bagwell Farm Touring Park. www.westfleetholidays.co.uk West FleetHoliday Farm. Tel: 01305 782218 www.seabarnfarm.co.uk Campsite.Sea Barn Tel: 01305 782218 Weymouth Campsites -Page www.tomsfieldcamping.co.uk . Tel: 01929 427110 Tom's Field -Page www.swanageauberge.co.uk High Street, Swanage. Tel: 07711 117668 Swanage Auberge -Page 21 www.rockandsun.com Mina Road, Bristol. Tel: 08456864586 Rock andSun-Insidefront cover Holidays www.v12outdoor.com Tel: 01286 871534 The OldBaptistChapel,Llanberis. V12 www.rockonclimbing.co.uk Redpoint, Birmingham. Tel: 01213 598709 Craggy Island,Guildford. Tel: 01483 565635 Mile End,London. Tel: 02089815066 Rock On-Page 291 -Back cover flap

/

Guidance favourite Jude Summers startinguptheBoulder Ruckle Lightning Wall (HVS5a) - page391. 21 Dorset

/

Accommodation 19 13

Swanage Lulworth Portland

Dorset Logistics Dorset

The Cove House Inn on the edge of Chesil Beach is a great après- climb and perfectly positioned for watching the sunset. 14 Portland Lulworth Swanage 15

Swanage Lulworth Portland 1.8 4.5 9.3 Dec 90.9 2.7 6.2 11.5 Nov 84.5 3.8 9.3 Oct 77.4 15.0 5.4 11.6 Sep 18.3 66.4 7. 0 13.3 Aug 52.2 20.4 is serviced by bus is serviced bus Portland by 7. 6 Jul 12.5 35.6 20.3 7. 1 1 7. 9 47.0 Jun 10.3 7. 2 8.1 15.4 May 46.6 6.6 6.2 Apr 47.6 12.5 Emergencies 4.3 3.9 Mar 10.0 62.9 8.3 3.1 2.8 Feb 64.3 8.4 3.5 2.0 Jan 76.6 Tel: 01202 665511 (24hr) 665511 01202 Tel: A&E - Hospital Poole Tel: 01305 255541 (24hr) 01305 Tel: A&E - Hospital Dorchester Tel: 01803 614567 (NOT 24hr) (NOT 614567 01803 (MIU) - Tel: Hospital Portland Tel: 01929 422282 (NOT 24hr) 422282 (NOT 01929 (MIU) - Tel: Hospital Swanage Tel: 01305 760022 (NOT 24hr) (NOT 760022 01305 Tel: (MIU) - Hospital Weymouth Dorset Logistics Information Dorset DIAL 112 and ask for the coastguard or other emergency services. emergency or other coastguard the for and ask 112 DIAL Temperature ˚C Temperature

Average Min Temp (˚C) Temp Min Average Average Max Temp (˚C) Temp Max Average Average Sun (hours/day) Average Average Rain (mm/month) Rain Average Weymouth. bus service runs from either Wool or Wareham. Lulworth is also easily reached by bus from from bus by reached Lulworth easily is also Wareham. or Wool servicebus either runs from a regular a regular Lulworth For Winspit). (for Ledge) and Dancing (for Matravers Langton of Swanage. For the western end of the Swanage cliffs, a bus service runs from Swanage to to servicea bus Swanage runs from cliffs, end of the Swanage the western For of Swanage. (Subluminal and the Boulder Ruckle) it is a 1.5 mile walk to from the centre the centre from Country Park Durlston to mile walk it is a 1.5 Ruckle) and the Boulder (Subluminal has a regular service from Wareham. For the eastern end of the Swanage cliffs cliffs the eastern end of the Swanage For Wareham. service has a regular from Swanage routes that run close to all of the climbing areas via Easton, Weston and Southwell. and Southwell. Weston via Easton, all of the climbing areas that run close to routes . www.traveline.info on times is the website method of checking All of the climbing areas in this book are fairly easily reached by regular bus services. The best services. bus regular by reached easily fairly in this book are All of the climbing areas Buses checking on times and prices is the website www.thetrainline.com on times and prices is the website checking Weymouth (for Portland), Wareham (for Swanage) and Wool (for Lulworth). The best method of The Lulworth). (for Wool and Swanage) (for Wareham Portland), (for Weymouth Regular train services from all over the country run to the closest stations to the cliffs - these are - these are the cliffs the country to stations the closest run services train all over to Regular from Trains Getting There spots such as The Cuttings and at Winspit. and at The Cuttings spots such as autumn. Fine climbing days in winter are also not that uncommon and can be pleasant in sheltered and can be pleasant in sheltered also not that uncommon are in winter climbing days Fine autumn. offer relatively little shelter from the hot sun. Some of the best conditions are found in spring and found Some of the best conditions are the hot sun. from shelter little relatively offer and west coast of Portland means you can always find some shade. Swanage and Lulworth Swanage shade. find some can always means you coast of Portland and west - Shore Road, Swanage. Tel: 01929 422885 01929 Tel: Swanage. Road, - Shore Swanage Information Tourist hot although the east too Summer is often the onset of autumn. to springperiod through of late - Visitor Centre. Tel: 01305 861233 01305 Tel: Centre. Visitor Bill - Portland Portland Information Tourist Go to When the for Lulworth whilst is best left venues year-round both excellent are and Swanage Portland - Pavilion Theatre, The Esplanade. Tel: 01305 785747 01305 Tel: The Esplanade. Theatre, - Pavilion Weymouth Information Tourist information than it is possible to provide in these pages. provide to than it is possible information Tourist Information Offices listed below. These offices can provide much more useful and extensive useful and extensive more much can provide These offices below. listed Offices Information Tourist routes on Boulder Ruckle, or if you are just interested in local history; take a look at one of the a look at one take in local history; just interested are or if you on Boulder Ruckle, routes Tourist Information Offices Information Tourist look at some scary hiring advice, a boat to accommodation day, do on a rest to ideas on what For 16 Portland Lulworth Swanage at Fisherman's Ledge,Swanage. Photo:OliLyon Chris Weedon climbing StuckOn (E5 6a)-page341 -

Dorset Logistics 17

Swanage Lulworth Portland 18 Dorset Logistics Portland Accommodation Portland Portland Bagwell Farm Portland Accommodation Dorchester West Fleet B3155 Lulworth Lulworth No wild camping is allowed on A354 Portland. Sea Barn B3157 Swanage Swanage ¡#º Portland YHA - Weymouth Hardy House, Castletown, Portland. Has rooms and limited camping that must be pre-booked. Chesil Beach Asda Weymouth town centre Tel: 0845 371 9339 Open all year Wyke www.yha.org.uk Regis

Portland Harbour Bagwell Farm Campsite - ¡# A354 Portland sailing Fleet, Weymouth. Academy complex RSPB and Chesil Tel: 01305 782575 Beach centre and Cafe Open all year About 2km Portland www.bagwellfarm.co.uk

¡ - Tents Sea Barn Farm Campsite - ¡#™ Fleet, Weymouth. Tel: 01305 782218. Open - Mar to Nov ™ - Caravans for hire www.seabarnfarm.co.uk # - Showers º - Walk to pub West Fleet Holiday Farm - ¡# Fleet, Weymouth. Tel: 01305 782218. Open - Mar to Nov www.westfleetholidays.co.uk

Also worth considering are the following: The Aqua Hotel - Tel: 01305 860269 - Divers' hotel with good rooms. Cove Holiday Park - Tel: 01305 821286 - Pleasant static caravans in a good location. Glen Caravan Park - Tel: 01305 823548 - Very basic static caravans. Dream Cottages - Tel: 01305 789000 - Holiday cottages on Portland and Weymouth. Portland Holiday Homes - Tel: 01305 861044 - Holiday cottages on Portland. Fathom and Blues - Tel: 01305 766220 - Bunkhouse and rooms. YMCA - Tel: 01305 823761 - Rooms and good location.

Portland's east coast from near the Sunlovers Slab.

20 Dorset Logistics Swanage and Lulworth Accommodation Portland Portland

Poole Poole Lulworth Lulworth

Bere Regis A351

Poole Harbour Swanage Swanage A352 Wareham

Dorchester Wool

A351 B3070 B3071 Burnbrake Durdle Door M O D B3069 Woody Hyde Swanage Scott Arms Swanage Kingston Auberge Langton Matravers Lulworth Square & Compass p.248 Worth Matravers Durlston Country Park Tom's Field Swanage p.264

About 5km

Swanage Accommodation Swanage Coastal Park - ¡™#º There are many camping and caravan sites in Priests Way, Swanage. Tel: 01929 421822 and around Swanage, several of the popular www.shorefield.co.uk ones are listed below. Contact Swanage Tourist Information - Tel: 01929 422885 - for more information, including non-camping options. Burnbake Campsite - ¡# The Old Farmhouse, Rempstowe, Corfe Castle. Tel: 01929 480570. Open - Apr to Sept Tom's Field Campsite - ¡#º www.burnbake.com Tom's Field Road, Langton Matravers, Swanage. Tel: 01929 427110. Open - Mar to Oct. Woody Hyde Farm Camping Park - ¡# www.tomsfieldcamping.co.uk Corfe Castle, Wareham. Tel: 01929 480274 See advert opposite Open - Apr to Oct www.woodyhyde.co.uk

Swanage Auberge - #º Lulworth Accommodation 45 High Street, Swanage. Tel: 01929 424368. Caravan Park - ¡™#º Open all year. Bunkhouse accommodation in West Lulworth. Tel: 01929 400200 the centre of Swanage. Open - Apr to Oct www.swanageauberge.com www.lulworth.com See advert opposite

¡ - Tents Acton Field Campsite - ¡#º ™ - Caravans for hire Acton Field Campsite, Langton Matravers, Swanage. - 01929 439424. Open Summer and # - Showers easter only. www.actonfieldcampsite.co.uk º - Walk to pub

22 InformationDorset Logistics Shops, Food and Drink Portland Portland Lulworth Lulworth Lots of shops, cash-points, restaurants and fast food outlets in Swanage town centre

Swanage Swanage Swanage To Wareham and Co-op Langton Matravers Good family beach A351

Cafe Tratt

Wind Jammers Cafe Swanage Auberge

About 500m

Shops Lulworth Area Portland Area has a very conveniently situated Weymouth is packed with every shop you could cafe, right in the middle of the car park. There need. There is a large ASDA on the roundabout are some tea shops in Lulworth village just up as you approach Portland. On Portland there the road from Lulworth Cove itself. are a couple of mini-markets in Weston and two Swanage Area Co-ops - one in and one in Easton. Swanage town has lots of cafes in and around There is a large Tesco in Easton, just off of the the road that leads to Durlston Country Park. A square. There are a number of post offices, cash couple of handy ones are listed below. machines and other small shops on the Isle. Wind Jammers Cafe on the high street. Good spot with WiFi. Swanage Area Cafe Tratt on the road before turning up the hill There is a large Co-op supermarket in Swanage from the seafront. Good street side location. centre and also shops in Wareham on the drive Cafe (The Seventh Wave) near to the crags. the car park. Recently refurbished.

Lulworth Area In Lulworth there is one local store. Wool, the Take-aways and Restaurants Portland Area main village on the way to Lulworth, has some There are a number of fish and chip shops on shops. the Isle. Cafes Balti Island in is a good Indian and has Portland Area a nice restaurant as well as a take-away menu. White Stones Cafe in Easton. Excellent food and The Peking Restaurant in Easton Square is a coffee plus gallery, garden and WiFi. pleasant place to eat. The Sugar Loaf in Easton. Gives good service The Blue Fish Cafe in Chiswell is a fine restu- and does a decent fry-up. arant in the evening. The Blue Fish Cafe in Chiswell. Has very good The Crab House Cafe has seafood and is coffee and breakfasts. located on the way onto the Isle. The Lobster Pot Cafe at Portland Bill. Useful for The Cove House Inn on the seafront at Chiswell the Coastguard and Lighthouse cliffs. and The George at Easton do standard pub fare. Shops, Food and Drink Dorset Logistics 23

Swanage Area Sailing Academy Aqua Hotel Head for Swanage town centre A354 where there is a good selection Portland Portland Weymouth of take-aways and restaurants Chesil Beach Castletown that cater for most tastes and Lulworth Lulworth budgets. If you are wanting to Portland YHA stop on the approach then try the Blue Fish Cafe Chiswell Main Street in Wareham. Swanage Swanage Cove House Inn Co-op Fortuneswell Good Pub Guide Portland Area The Cove House Inn on the Balti Island Portland Heights Hotel seafront in Chiswell is a great place to sit outside as the sun sets over Chesil Beach and also Petrol Station

d

R has a convivial atmosphere.

n Sugar Loaf Cafe

o

t

The George on the outskirts of s

e White Stones Cafe

Easton is a good traditional pub W that often has live music. The bar The George Portland Sports at The Portland Heights Hotel Cash-point Co-op has a great view out over Chesil Easton Beach and . Weston Peking Restaurant

Lulworth Area Tesco Shops The Castle Inn is a nice pub with Glen Caravan Site Chip Shop good food and a low-slung roof. Church Ope Beach

Swanage Area n Cove Holiday Park L p a e In Swanage town there is a R whole cluster of near the end of the pier. If you are Southwell climbing at Dancing Ledge or Winspit you can head straight Fathom and

d for The Square and Compass Blues Bunkhouse a o R

l l at Worth Matravers, which has i B

d n la a very ‘olde worlde' atmosphere. rt o The Scott Arms in Kingston (near P Worth Matravers) is an excellent pub with good food and a lovely Pulpit Inn beer garden. Many of the pubs in Corfe Castle are excellent but possibly the best is The Fox Inn. Lobster Pot Cafe About 500m Beaches Along the coastline the variety of scenery is quite remarkable. Beautiful, unspoilt sandy beaches occur at Studland, Sandbanks and Weymouth. There are also delightful stony coves at Lulworth and Worrbarrow Bay. The major venues have organised watersports such as water-skiing, parascending and . Other areas which are popular for sunbathing and with families are Dancing Ledge Quarry, Swanage main beach and on Portland. 24 InformationDorset Logistics Climbing Walls and Climbing Shops Portland Portland Climbing Shops Portland Lulworth Lulworth Portland Sports and Leisure Shop, 6 Easton Street, Portland - www.portlandsportsshop.co.uk Sells climbing hardware and the guidebook.

Swanage Swanage Swanage Jurrasic Outdoors, 11 High Street, Swanage - www.jurassicoutdoor.com Sells climbing hardware and outdoor clothing.

Dorchester Great Western Camping, London Road, Dorchester - www.greatwesterncamping.co.uk Sells climbing hardware, boots, camping equipment, outdoor clothing and the guidebook. Bournemouth Cotswold Outdoor, Westover Retail Park, Castle Lane West, Bournemouth.

Climbing Walls Q.E. Leisure Centre (The Edge) - ¢∞ Blandford Road, Wimbourne, Dorset. Tel: 01202 888208. 8m high lead and top-rope wall plus bouldering room. Open weekday evenings and weekends all day.

Calshot Activities Centre - §¢∞ § - Food/cafe Calshot Spit, Fawley, . Tel: 023 8089 2077. A large centre with a ¢ - Lead wall 20m leading wall. Opening times vary, check before a visit. ∞ - Bouldering Quay Climbing Centre - §¢∞ Haven Road, , Devon. Tel: 01392 426 850. Large leading wall and bouldering sections. Open weekdays and weekends.

Bournemouth University - ¢∞ Bournemouth University, Talbot Campus. Tel: 01202 961677. Leading wall and bouldering.

Chesil Beach and Lyme Bay from the top of Portland.

Dorset Climbing Dorset 26 Portland Lulworth Swanage line ofPrisonSex (7c+)-page171 -atCoastguard North. tenuousand sustained Andy Schofield workingonthevery 27

Swanage Lulworth Portland 28 AccessDorset Climbing Access Portland Portland Many of the climbing areas covered in this book have sensitive access but, thanks to the BMC and their local volunteers, most are currently accessible to all climbers - all areas with potential problems or actual bans are noted within the text. Climbers should be aware of their responsibilities and be careful not to abuse Lulworth Lulworth the access granted. In general, simple reasonable behaviour like not dropping litter, respecting restrictions, not making excess noise and using the described approaches is all that is required to ensure continued untroubled access to the climbing areas. Swanage Swanage One notable area with a major access problem is Lulworth. This area is owned by the Weld Estate who in 1995 announced a total ban on climbing on their land for reasons of conservation and public safety. This ban continues to the present day. There are also some specific (non-bird) restrictions at Winspit Quarry, Dancing Ledge, Blacknor Far North and near the Godnor and Neddyfields cliffs that are covered in detail in their respective introductions.

Bird Nesting Restrictions To avoid disturbance to nesting birds, seasonal climbing restrictions have been placed on certain Csections of the Dorset coast. The nature of these restrictions varies from Portland to Swanage, but it is essential that climbers abide by the restrictions and also take note of any changes that may occur further to the information contained in this book. Note that the restrictions are not just no-climbing restric- tions - please keep away from these areas altogether. Portland - The restrictions on Portland are variable and reviewed each year and in general are only applied to the sections of cliff where the birds (often peregrines) have actually nested. The restrictions usually apply from the 1st March until 30th June but they are lifted if there are no nests or if the birds have fledged. The current practice is to mark the affected routes by fixing a sign on the bolts at the edges of the restricted area. There is also a permanent restriction on the far end of Coastguard South. Swanage - Unlike the Portland restrictions, the bird nesting areas for Swanage are well established and seldom change. The affected routes are clearly marked in the text and all the bans apply from 1st March to 31st July. The crags with restrictions for nesting birds are Hedbury Big Cove, Smokey Hole, Guillemot West, some of Cormorant, some of Blackers Hole and several sections of the Boulder Ruckle.

All these restrictions can change so please check the BMC Regional Access Database (RAD) if you are unsure - www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ Access Dorset ClimbingAccess 29 Portland Portland Lulworth Lulworth Swanage Swanage

Brian Wilkinson on the of Cruise Control (6a+) - page 212 - at Cheyne Cliff on the east coast of Portland. Part of Cheyne Cliff has a restriction on it due to nesting birds. Although this doesn't include this particular route it does affect the approach to the crag - see page 213 for details. Access Climbing Dorset

MOD property near Lulworth or on Portland. rare flora grows on the Isle. on the Isle. grows flora rare of the Do not climb on any sanctuary zones. Portland since this is where much of the much since this is where Portland of the any enter, or even Do not climb, reason. Don't abseil over cliff-tops on cliff-tops Don't abseil over reason. Sanctuary and MOD Areas Zones areas on Portland have been left for a for been left have on Portland areas almost certainly the case that undeveloped almost certainly the case that undeveloped before developing any new areas. It is areas. new any developing before gardening routes. Check local information local information Check routes. gardening Minimise damage to fragile flora by not flora fragile Minimise damage to dation suggestions are on pages 18 and 20. 18 on pages are dation suggestions Plants Cliff of the many local sites. All accommo- local camp sites. of the many issued. Use one Lulworth on Portland. or Swanage, restricted and parking tickets are regularly regularly are and parking tickets restricted Camping at anywhere allowed No wild camping is previously used for parking are now officially officially now parking are used for previously on Portland. Note that some of the places that some of the Note on Portland. maps. Please respect the local residents the local residents Please respect maps. these are clearly marked on all the approach on all the approach marked clearly these are Parking use the described parkingOnly places, 30 Portland Lulworth Swanage On thefine lineofTheRightMix (6b)-page139attheUnsung AreaofWallsend North. Access Dorset Climbing 31

Swanage Lulworth Portland Bolting Support bolting volunteers local Climbing Dorset

or to www.dorset-climbing.com/dorset_bolt_fund/ www.ukboltfund.org or to For more information about the funding of bolting in Dorset and to donate to the DBF go to to donate and to about the funding of bolting in Dorset information more For have a background in rope access, you could be a real asset to the Dorset Bolt Fund. the Dorset asset to could be a real you access, in rope a background have hard work. Bolting is a difficult and time-consuming activity. If you are an experienced climber, or climber, an experienced are If you and time-consuming activity. Bolting is a difficult work. hard funding. If you want to get more involved then there is always a need for volunteers to help with the to volunteers a need for is always then there involved get more to want If you funding. donation each time you go climbing in Dorset can go a long way to providing the necessary providing to can go a long way go climbing in Dorset donation each time you The main way everyone can help is by making a donation. The simple gesture of a £5 online The simple gesture a donation. making can help is by everyone The main way How can I help? How occasional maintenance and re-gearing. and re-gearing. occasional maintenance quickly. Blackers Hole Quarry and The Promenade, that still need work. Additionally, existing routes need routes existing Additionally, that still need work. The Promenade, Hole Quarry and Blackers kit pretty bolting can trash as especially price per route, tag hefty a fairly All this adds up to etc. Nearly all of Portland and much of Swanage is now properly geared but there are places, such as places, are there but geared properly is now of Swanage and much all of Portland Nearly pegs ropes, the climbing gear, is Then there bolts. glue-in and glue guns for plus resin themselves, If bolts look suspect please report it to the BMC Southwest Area - www.thebmc.co.uk/contact Area please report the BMC Southwest 7) If bolts look suspect it to and drill the bolts bits, batteries drills, spare high-powered bolting is a big one - The kit list for leader and belayer can get hurt in the event of a fall. can get hurtin the event leader and belayer Agreement. Bolt with the Dorset in accordance routes, existing which has caused problems with some bolts in the area. It is also a dangerous practice since both practice It is also a dangerous with some bolts in the area. which has caused problems old bolts on replacing used for is solely raised The money with them. work routes of equipping to the first bolt. a long way from the face puts a heavy outward loading on the bottom bolt outward loading on the bottom a heavy face puts the from way a long Belaying bolt. the first to and then do the hard bolts, of the purchase funds for raise These volunteers climbing in Dorset. Always belay close to the rock face with the rope going straight up through the clipped the quickdraw up through going straight with the rope face the rock close to belay Always 6) the with a passion for climbers volunteer of committed a group The DBF has been set up by karabiners to reduce wear and tear. wear reduce to karabiners Dorset Bolt Fund The Please don't top-rope directly through the lower-off anchors, instead, run your rope through through rope run your instead, anchors, the lower-off through directly 5) Please don't top-rope Never top-rope or lower-off of a single staple. or lower-off top-rope 4) Never lowering always thread both belay staples. both belay thread always lowering The staples can be lowered off directly or by abseil. When When abseil. or by directly off can be lowered The staples 3) edges or in uneven rock. edges or in uneven Carry a screwgate or sling to use on bolts which are close to close to use on bolts which are or sling to 2) Carry a screwgate Use high-strength karabiners. 1) Use high-strength When using these staples: When using excess of 25 years. of excess provide inexpensive, corrosion-resistant protection with a lifetime in with a lifetime protection corrosion-resistant inexpensive, provide marine-grade stainless steel held in with a special epoxy glue. They They glue. epoxy in with a special held steel stainless marine-grade by this book is the U-bolt staple - see right. These are made from made from These are - see right. is the U-bolt staple this book by Bolting at the sport used covered crags predominantly system The bolting 32 Portland Lulworth Swanage at Blacknor Northonthewestcoast ofPortland.Photo: SzymonDziukiewicz Piotr Wycislik onthetoughcentral sectionofFreakyRalph (8a+)-page69 - Bolting Dorset Climbing 33

Swanage Lulworth Portland Gear Tides and Climbing GearDorset Safety and

very strong tidal races at Portland and Swanage swimming is not advised. swimming and Swanage at Portland tidal races very strong conditions - just find a surfing location closest to the cliffs. Because of the to the cliffs. conditions - just find a surfing location closest gives lots of data on sea swell, tides, wind strength and general weather weather and general wind strength tides, on sea swell, lots of data gives . This at www.magicseaweed.com. website the surfing from be gained different tables for Swanage and Portland. A rough guide to tides can also guide to A rough and Portland. Swanage for tables different tables can be bought in newsagents and post offices. There are are There and post offices. in newsagents can be bought tables Tide . 2m or greater tides of around spring look for The Portland deep water solos need the highest tides possible so tides possible solos need the highest deep water The Portland unless visiting some of the cliffs on the east coast or Coastguard South. South. on the east coast or Coastguard unless visiting some of the cliffs For sport of the tides is not essential For a knowledge climbing on Portland rough or worse. rough virtually all areas it is worth keeping well away when the sea is moderately when the sea is moderately away virtually it is worth well all areas keeping the cliffs although only a few areas are actually cut off by high water. For For high water. by cut off actually are areas a few although only the cliffs Portland Bill. At Swanage a knowledge of tides is essential for most of of tides is essential for a knowledge At Swanage Bill. Portland the ebb to the west which are most apparent in the huge off of off in the huge tidal race most apparent which are west the to the ebb highs a day some 12-13 hours apart. The flood tide flows to the east and flows tide The flood apart. hours 12-13 some highs a day Wales. The tides advance by about 45 minutes a day and there are two are and there a day about 45 minutes by The tides advance Wales. in water level are slow when compared to , Devon and South Devon Cornwall, to when compared slow are level in water of prolonging the time the water level is high or low. Overall the changes Overall is high or low. level the time the water of prolonging has a double tide, which is not really obvious to the eye but has the effect has the effect but the eye to obvious which is not really tide, has a double yourself securely at the base of the cliffs (in case of a freak large wave). large (in case of a freak at the base of the cliffs securely yourself Portland whilst neap tides (half moons) vary betweenrange 1 and 1.5m. selection of cams and some larger nuts. Include enough gear to belay belay Include enough gear to nuts. selection of cams and some larger 2.5m about a 2 to and full moon) have The highest spring tides (new traditional routes take two sets of wires and some micro-nuts, plus a good plus a good two and some micro-nuts, sets of wires take routes traditional Tides avoid rope drag from the ever-present overhangs at Swanage. For the big For at Swanage. overhangs the ever-present from drag rope avoid clearly indicated with the crag information and or route descriptions. and or route information with the crag indicated clearly help and to belays of slings for a good selection Take is used. rope thick as at White Hole, Coastguard South and The Promenade - again this is - again The Promenade South and Coastguard Hole, White as at a sure so make free-hanging these abseils are Often at Swanage. crags Blackers Hole. Certain sport routes require an abseil approach or are tidal are or an abseil approach Certain sport require routes Hole. Blackers of the many for is essential In addition, a 50m abseil rope this guidebook. however some lines at Swanage require more, most notably once again at once again notably most more, require at Swanage some lines however Climbing Trad virtually climbs in all the traditional for required are 50m ropes Double A rack of fourteen is enough for any route on Portland, on Portland, route any is enough for quickdraws of fourteen A rack rope is necessary. rope when lowering off. For a number of the big lines at Blackers Hole a longer Hole the big lines at Blackers of a number For off. when lowering have, ALWAYS tie a knot in the dead end and stand close to the face the face close to stand in the dead end and tie a knot ALWAYS have, rope but please take special care and, no matter what length of rope you you of rope what length and, no matter care special please take but rope 30m in length. It is possible to climb on many other areas with a shorter other areas many climb on to possible It is 30m in length. several areas on the east and west coast of Portland with routes close to close to with routes coast of Portland west on the east and areas several Sport Climbing are there since is advised of 60m rope a single the sportFor routes 34 Portland Lulworth Swanage Ian Tsang tackling oneofthemost popular 7asportroutes onPortlandWolfgang Forever (7a) -page68atBlacknor North. Gear and Tides Gear Dorset Climbing 35

Swanage Lulworth Portland Safety For crags requiring an abseil approach, do not assume abseil approach, an requiring crags For When wet the grass and mud can be lethally slippery. This is slippery. lethally can be and mud the grass wet When Take great care when lowering off and always have a knot tied in have and always off when lowering care great Take Climbing Dorset

Cliff rescue practice at Hedbury Quarry, Swanage. Cliff rescue practice at Hedbury Quarry, water, shades, a hat, and slap on the sun screen. shades, water, In summer many of the crags can be unbelievably hot so take lots of hot so take can be unbelievably of the crags get hot - In summer many to 9) Prepare especially if that bolted route was at a climbing wall! was route if that bolted especially to instantly lead the equivalent trad grade as your best sport grade effort on a bolted route, route, on a bolted best sport as your effort grade grade trad lead the equivalent instantly to leading grade by at least 2 notches when attempting a route there. Additionally, DON'T expect DON'T expect Additionally, there. a route at least 2 notches when attempting by leading grade big and serious cliff. Until familiar with the place, it is highly recommended that you drop your your drop that you recommended it is highly with the place, Until familiar big and serious cliff. Remember that Swanage, and the Boulder Ruckle in particular, is a in particular, and the Boulder Ruckle that Swanage, - Remember grade your 8) Drop big wave with them on you will sink VERY quickly if you are washed out of your depth. of your out washed are if you quickly VERY will sink with them on you big wave and rope in a manner whereby they can be easily and quickly jettisoned. If you are hit by a hit by are If you jettisoned. and quickly can be easily they in a manner whereby and rope When above deep water, carry the rack deep water, above When base - along the crag when moving 7) Be careful prior to descending and fixing a short slope. the finishing priorrope down to the last sections of good rock and, if at all possible, consider locating the top of the climb of the consider locating the top all possible, and, if at good rock the last sections of grass slopes that are often the most serious section of a climb. Place plenty of protection on Place plenty protection of the most serious section of a climb. often slopes that are grass Many of the Swanage trad routes finish on unstable earth finish on unstable and routes trad the Swanage of - Many top-outs your Watch 6) easy escape route. easy 4) Take an abseil rope with you - with you an abseil rope Take 4) an is not always essential since there loops are Prusik loops - In most areas Prusik Take 5) 3) Tie a knot in your rope - rope Tie a knot in your 3) it away. time you pack each bag belay. part integral of the cliff-top an forms rope also the case after long dry dry spells when the is frictionless. grass after also the case your rope to the habit of tying of your rope both ends - get into Tip of the rope. the dead end the abseil climbing since frequently use for wish to you abseil in on ropes to that it is possible 2) Take care on the cliff top - top the cliff on care Take 2) helmets are very strongly recommended, particularly recommended, at Swanage. very strongly helmets are The Roped Climbing Safety Roped Checklist Climbing The slopes, finishing the unstable and of the rock looseness of the - Because a helmet Wear 1) 36 Portland Lulworth Swanage

38 GradesDorset Climbing Grades Portland Portland In this book sport routes are given sport grades and traditionally Lulworth Lulworth protected routes are given trad (or British) grades. Deep water solos may have a trad grade or a sport grade, Swanage Swanage depending on whether the route is a bolted route or not, but they will also have an S-grade (see page 40). The grade table attempts to compare the main grading systems.

Sport Grade A sport grade is simply a measure of how hard it is going to be to get up a certain bit of rock. It does not attempt to define how difficult the hardest move is, or how scary the route is. The routes in this book are graded for a first try by the easiest method, hence on-sights can seem harder if you miss the correct sequence.

Trad Grade Trad climbing is where protection is placed whilst climbing (nuts and cams etc.) and there are usually no bolts to clip. The trad grading-system is divided into two parts; The adjectival grade (Diff, VDiff, Severe (S), Hard Severe (HS), Very Severe (VS), Hard Very Severe (HVS), E1…E10). This gives an overall picture of the route including how well protected it is, how sustained and an indication of the level of difficulty of the whole route. The technical grade (4a, 4b, 4c, 5a…7a). This refers to the difficulty of the hardest single move, or short section, on a route.

Colour-coding The trad and sport routes are all given a colour-coded dot corresponding to a difficulty band. Green Routes - Everything at grade Severe and under, and 4+ and under for sport routes. Good routes to kick off your climbing career. Orange Routes - HS to HVS inclusive, and 5 to 6a+ for sport routes. General ticking routes for those with more experience, a large range of excellent routes is available across this band. Red Routes - E1 to E3 inclusive, and 6b to 7a for sport routes. For the experienced and keen climber. Anyone operating at this level can expect to enjoy some of the best climbing in the book. Black Routes - E4 and above, and 7a+ and above for sport routes. The hard stuff! Have a go at some major national testpieces, plus you can do all the red, orange and green routes as well. Can't be better than that! together at GuillemotLedgeEast, Swanage.Photo:Paul Cox Mark Glaister runningbothpitches ofYellow Wall (E15b)-page319 - Grades Dorset Climbing

Grades 39

Swanage Lulworth Portland 40 Dorset Climbing Deep Water Soloing Portland Portland Deep Water Soloing Routes that have been classed as deep water solos Lulworth Lulworth q are indicated by the splash-down icon. These routes can be trad routes or sport routes, but some may also only have ever been done as deep water solos. Swanage Swanage Little gear is needed for the actual climbing, apart from a good supply of spare boots and chalk bags in case of a wetting. For some of the routes it is necessary for an abseil to be made to reach sea level, for which you will need a harness and an abseil device (these should be left on the abseil rope when you set off on your solo so that you aren't weighed down if you end up in the water).

Deep Water Solo Grade In addition to their normal sport grade, deep water solos are also given an S-grade at the start of the route descrip- tion, this gives an indication of the seriousness of soloing the route under optimum conditions. Routes given a trad grade that have also been climbed as deep water solos have been given a sport grade in blue next to the S grade (the sport grade is commonly used in deep water soloing).

An S-grade is not a green light to go ahead at any time for a deep water solo, as many factors will alter the seriousness of a route, such as the depth of water, height above water, sea state, strong currents, people in the sea below, swimming ability and water temperature.

The S-grade definitions are: S0 - Can be undertaken at most tide states with normally plenty of water under all parts of the route. Low crux sections and an easy exit from the water. S1 - Needs careful consideration of tides to ensure there is sufficient water under the route. Some climbing may not be above water. May have hard moves high up and/or some poor rock. S2 - As for S1 but it may require high spring tides for suffi- cient water. Possible that water maybe too shallow for a safe entry. High hard sections. For the very experienced only. S3 - Shallow water solos which are never really safe.

The Deep Water Soloing Safety Checklist 1) Always check tides before starting. Remember a neap high tide may not actually be that high. Check which routes need high spring tides carefully. 2) Never go deep water soloing on your own in case you get into difficulties in the water. 3) Before starting, always check the fall zone for ledges, reefs, boulders or any other environmental dangers. Just because a route has been soloed, it doesn't mean that there is always deep water beneath every section of it. 4) Check for exits from the water should you need them. 5) Keep an eye out for weather changes; a sudden change in wind speed or direction can quickly create rough and dangerous conditions. 6) In spring and early summer the water is very cold and it will suck the life out of you in no time at all. Make provision for getting dry and warm quickly if necessary. Deep Water Deep Soloing Fathoms Neil Gresham deepwatersoloing theFisherman'sLedge classic (E3 5b)-page339 -atSwanage. Photo:KeithSharples Dorset Climbing 41

Swanage Lulworth Portland 76 92 66 79 81 82 118 116 118 116 116 174 211 176 176 301 102 102 103 104 104 104 103 122 155 126 160 170 122 150 150 139 123 140 140 169 138 122 177 177 159 159 145 192 162 153 169 177 175 170 172 145 159 278 283 304 307 239 230 304 355 240 254 360 302 ...... S1 ...... S1 ...... Pump Hitler Pump . . . . Addict Psychosomatic . . . . . Special Team Troll On the Wall Psychic EMF ...... Psychic Solstice Game Damnation Us Apart The Tear Will Pump the Siren Song to Stand-off Mexican Dizzy up the Girl Team Dogtown Skate . . . . . Cybernetic Orchard Girl Power Nagasaki Kendo Crown of Thorns The Singing Bush Barbed Wire Kisses . . . . Ironhead . . . . . The Mouth Waters Humanoid the Crypt from . . . Rocket Burn. . . . Dreams Down The Bigger Piece . . . . . or Quits ...... Double Bushwhacked Mariner's Graveyard Laughing Peter ...... Bend Sinister . . . . . Victims of Fashion Animal Magnetism ...... Wall the to Weakest Choco Loni Tessellations Factory The Fun . . . . Useless Generation of this Land . . . . My Love of the Century . . . . Sale Land Turvy Topsy . . . . Nihil ...... Nineties The Swinging Azymuth ...... Wax on Wheels 103 Scyphostoma The Strobolising L'esprit du vent . . . . . Barrier Reef Great the Sword by Live Genuflection The Bad Seeds ...... a Dream Down Running Ariane V ...... Dr Phibes ...... Pearl Twangy ...... Spacewalk IntrinsecaRyme In and BurnCome . . . . . Flux Aeon Five Fathom Full Rib Spare . . . . . Smut Biscuits for Golden ...... Stay . . . . . Outside the Gate MourningSeptember . . . . of Rage Prophets Smell of Success Sweet as Rainbows Quick Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω 4 4 4 4 4 7a+ ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 76 70 82 75 83 82 116 174 174 211 176 176 105 105 145 159 213 169 189 172 123 213 168 171 163 153 153 148 123 168 169 171 153 172 123 172 213 172 160 151 141 170 238 278 256 356 356 355 261 241 256 354 259 238 361 289 356 305 228 303 238 234 355 255 ...... S1 S1 ...... Want Out ...... Want ...... Frazzled Gates of Greyskull of Greyskull Gates . . . the Halsewell Avenging . . . . Lulworth Arms Treaty in the Sewer Down ...... Wave of a Crest Nations . Birth of New Pains Heaven to Halfway ...... Mirrorball . . . . . Orange Clockwork Spanner Eyes the Line ...... Walk I Think Black ...... Detonator Boilermaker ...... Warriors Once Were Mark the Beast of Nightmare Scenario Nightmare Shining Heart ...... Atonement ...... Tennessee Seizure Total Skulls . . . . . Screaming . . . of Knowledge The Font Mission Trance Illusions ...... Wall Keyboard Hall of Mirrors Liquid Steel Meridian Line ...... Crucifix Kiss . . . . Phooey Hong Kong . . . Big Score Cinderella's Il Pirata ...... Subyouth Zum Zeaux Disintegration ...... Spiral Downhill The Racing Line The Racing Red Medicine Red Emptiness Headwall Museum Wax Fat Chance Hotel Fat Din Infernal . . . . . Vulcan Sign of the In on the Killtaker Detruncation . . . Frenzied of Chaos Realm Guardian Angel Guardian . . . . Zinc Oxide Mountain ...... Natural Mr. Brooklyn Bimbo ...... Brooklyn Rage Road . . . . . Meltdown Reactor Colors ...... Coralized . . . . Phenomena Cocteau Corinthian Spirit ...... Become Wings Waves It In! ...... Running Teenage Lust ...... Teenage Buried Violence ...... Boiler ...... Bust ya' Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 7b *** Ω *** Ω 7b+ *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 7c ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 69 116 153 188 169 192 169 192 192 169 168 161 212 171 141 183 254 241 239 328 349 237 257 254 355 328 349 349 328 364 361 256 348 305 328 348 305 256 238 356 241 Graded List - SportList - Graded Routes . . S1 ...... S3 ...... S1 ...... S1 ...... Dorset ...... www.rockfax.com ...... Magnetic Pull Under Duress The Big Blue Hurricane on a Millpond ...... Monoculture Brawl Bar Room Zen Zero The Schwarzechild Radius The Schwarzechild Eternal Spider ...... Butterfly Drunken . . . . . The Mind Terrorist . . . . the System to Shock King of the Swingers Osaki Dolphin ...... Godfodder ...... Glycerine Burn Hollywood BurnBurn Hollywood Chambers Hell's Darker Vespasian ...... Gravity Infinite My Fire Fuel Horizon Event ...... Ralph Freaky Pereperu Haka Adrenochrome Laughing Forever Skeletor Kneel to Never Beautiful South Redneck Temple ...... Pandemonium Legendary . . . . Shadows ...... Sex Prison Eternia to Journey ...... Endeavour ...... Lifeforce of the Brine Palace The Breathing Method . . . The Breathing Love Hungary for To Balance of Power Logic . . . . . Solid State Torque Fighting

Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω

4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω 7c+ ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 8a *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 8a+ *** Ω

8b Since 2000 the routes in Dorset in Dorset 2000 the routes Since voting for been open have on the and grades on stars these and website ROCKFAX on been based lists have graded received. have we votes the many the this page covers The list on at both Swanage sport routes and Portland.additional Some been added if the have routes consensus wasn't online database with the disagree If you sufficient. by list then please let us know and placing visiting the website - votes your 8c ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 42 Portland Lulworth Swanage **Ω ***Ω **Ω **Ω ***Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω 6c **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω 6c+ **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω ***Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω ***Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω 7a **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω ***Ω ***Ω 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Last Rose ofSummer. Winning atRodeo Vin Chaud. Wolfgang Forever Medusa Falls . To Wish theImpossible . Under theSky, InsidetheSea 's Dreaming Forensic Scene. Always Have theEdge Downtown Julie Brown Lost inRock A ShipLoadofMoonies Nothing but theGroove . The Cutting Edge Drag Racing Underground L'Odyssee Noire Defcon One. China White . Isle ofSlingers . Turned to Stone . Best Fingers Forward Hieronymous GBH El Poder deunCoño . Streaky Julie Ocean. Red Rain . Eight-Bar Blues. Haunted by aMillionScreams Lil'DevilHorny 1789 The Wondersof Wallkraft Peppercorn Rate . Smashing Orange . Bad MoonRising. Van People Sacred Angel. Jurassic Shift . Superfly Guy. Acid Jazz Disco. Drive Blind. Gallows' Gore Nightmare Modern Mr Choo. No meComas elCoco . Rigor Mortise I Thought You HadIt!. The Holy HandGrenade . Ancient Order ofFreemarblers Is VicThere? . Grossville . Portland Heights No TurnUnstoned . Mechanoids . Haute Cuisine Appleturnoverload . Master oftheRolls Through . theBarricades Sugar Ray . Reverence . Sang Chaud Forget Columbus ...... S0 ...... 256 236 307 208 279 302 302 278 279 241 261 279 238 278 360 239 298 177 150 122 170 168 157 168 124 141 162 175 171 122 170 141 213 159 170 175 145 151 105 107 301 176 176 176 176 176 174 117 117 84 68 92 92 70 63 83 92 90 68 82 69 84 70 **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω 6b **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω 6b+ 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Wind intheRiggin' Blue Faced Booby . No ManisanIsland New Saladin Magical Mr. Mephistopheles Opposites Attract . Out ofReach, OutofMind Hangs Like aDeadMan. Long WalkThe The Enchanted Path Queen Anne's Men Queen Anne's Drowning Land onDry Protein . . Delta Strip Flowers ontheRazor Wire Gangster Lean Judge Jeffreys . Astra Blaze Seppukku Sureshot Nothing isCool Daylight Robbery. House Nation Where SilenceHasLease. The Unworthy Disobedience Contest . Very Sleepy River Read the SmallPrint . TradFree World . Another NotchintheGun . Carlos Fandango Belay . JakeCut Throat . BoogalooH'electric . Chevette delaMer Good Lay . Too Many Cooks Spoil…. No Placefor Mambas The Lonelinessofthe… Kit Kat the Ashes Retaining Jumping theGun. The RightMix The Watchman Captain LobMeetsthe… EncounterBrief . European Flavour toReturn Roissy Buoys Will BeBuoys . Lord Stublock Deepvoid… . Slopin' andHopin' . Ausfahrt . Walking theKing . The Unknown Soldier Waiting for . theBarbarians Doolittle Inch Perfect, Inchworm Moses Weetabix…Rambling Reality Bites Bum Droplets Driven Like theSnow Chicago Peace AgainBorn . Titter Ye NotMrs! . The Jewel oftheisle. andQuines Harpies Graded List - Sport Routes Graded List-Sport ......

239 288 228 279 354 354 289 251 205 229 239 240 237 289 238 238 300 354 307 361 204 157 162 150 122 157 177 158 173 139 122 156 158 177 150 170 156 163 103 106 107 107 103 104 301 301 176 211 114 117 118 117 75 79 75 69 93 75 64 84 83 83 93 84 **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω 6a+ ***Ω 3 **Ω 3+ **Ω 4 **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω 4+ **Ω **Ω **Ω 5 **Ω **Ω 5+ **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω 6a **Ω **Ω **Ω 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Talk Consommé The Lizard ofOz Young atHeart Pregnant Pause . Future Imperfect Punter's Way Evening Falls . Wonderlust Ocean Drive Belly ButtonBelly Traverse Paying ItForward Stalker's Zone ControlCruise . The Man Who Never… Stone Mason. Unseen RipplesofthePebble Moves for theMasses. Gaze oftheGorgon . Lazy Days andSummerHaze Reptile Smile. Fallen Slab FallenSlab Arete . . Tombstone . Diamond Boulder FamilyQuality Day Best Destiny Six GoodBiceps Jam . Amen Corner Mackerel Slings Shot Jacob's Ladder The GoodLife . Chalkie andtheHex 5. Happens, ActuallyShit Monsoon Malabar. Underage . Escape from theDwaarfee… Mother's Milk. Cake Walk . Fear's YoungerBrother Margaret ontheGuillotine. Never Drive aCar When… of Age . Coming Two Fingers . Xavier Zoo. Xavier's Wall Flow WithGo The The Price ofSilence Pinch anInch Meg's GotLeukaemia . Dorset ...... S0 . . . . .

205 239 200 208 279 279 288 205 237 237 236 282 202 236 239 205 158 213 171 124 106 103 106 103 106 174 174 174 174 174 116 116 117 117 114 92 90 78 81 70 99 98 70 99 97 80 71 71 80 66 76 74 43

Swanage Lulworth Portland 44 Dorset Graded List - Traditional Routes Portland Portland This trad route graded list only covers routes at Swanage and Lulworth, including some deep Lulworth Lulworth water solos. Once again additional routes have been added if the online database consensus wasn't sufficient. If you disagree with the list then

Swanage Swanage please let us know by visiting the website and placing your votes www.rockfax.com.

E8 4 Ω Laughing Arthur ...... 328

E7 *** Ω Windowchrome S1 . . . . 257 4 Ω Pump up the Beast S1 . . .257 4 Ω Street Fighting Years . . . .332 *** Ω Monsters of Rock . . . . .329 4 Ω Vapour Trail ...... 294 *** Ω Slide Show ...... 341 ** Ω Full Circle ...... 332 4 Ω Naked and Savage . . . . 329

E6 4 Ω The Mind Cathedral . . . . 348 4 Ω The Aquatic Ape . . . . . 327 *** Ω Nowhere to Run . . . . . 293 ** Ω Dougal the Great . . . . . 312 ** Ω Once in the Jungle . . . . 292 *** Ω Skullthugery S2 ...... 255 ** Ω Paparazzi News ...... 349 ** Ω Magnetic Skulls S1 . . . . 255 ** Ω The Equalizer ...... 333 ** Ω Too Precious ...... 397 ** Ω The Jesus Lizard . . . . . 292 ** Ω Sheffield Uber Alles . . . . 292 ** Ω New Dawn ...... 341 ** Ω Wide Awake in America . . .386 ** Ω For Whom the Swell Tolls S2 339 ** Ω Rocket USA ...... 294 ** Ω The Drowning Pool S2 . . .345 4 Ω Privateer S2 ...... 339 ** Ω Vigilante ...... 348 ** Ω Enter the Void ...... 327 ** Ω Herman Borg's Basic… S2 . 345 ** Ω Charmed Life ...... 340 4 Ω Procrastinating Giant . . . .329 ** Ω Imp of the Perverse S0 . . .253 ** Ω Diving for Pearls . . . . . 294 ** Ω Hornier Than Thou S0 . . . 256

E5 ** Ω Centrepiece ...... 333 ** Ω Punks in Power ...... 375 ** Ω Fly Crazy But Free . . . . 313 ** Ω A Subtle Shade of Emptiness 411 4 Ω Surge Control ...... 375 ** Ω Zoolookologie ...... 368 ** Ω Joe 90 ...... 384 ** Ω Theory of Everything . . . .368 *** Ω Relax and Swing . . . . . 381 ** Ω Not Forgotten, No Fade Away 333 *** Ω Swordfish Trombones S2 . . 345 ** Ω Into You (Like a Train) . . . 342 ** Ω World in Action ...... 369 Chris Weedon on his own new line Slide Show (E7 6c) - page 341 - at ** Ω The Fabulous Professor Panic 293 the New Dawn section of Fisherman's Ledge. Photo: Ben Fordesman ** Ω Window of Opportunity S0 . 256 ***Ω ***Ω **Ω ***Ω ***Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω

**Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω *Ω ***Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω E3 **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω E4 ***Ω 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Davey Jones' Lock-off Crystal Voyager2 Freeborn Man The BigHeat. The Great Hunt Shark Barracuda Dune Dust . Singing Winds . Warlord Double 'ard Bastard . Impending Gleam Bare Reputation Cima Petite Acapulco Sting inthe Tail Tempting Truancy . Mother Africa Melpomene Fathoms Russian Roulette Soul Sacrifice Ocean Boulevard . Damage Case . . The Brotherhood Sister ofNight …And Captain Blood's… TensileGroove Test . Crazy Notion Giantslayer Rave Cave Wall ofthe Worlds . Polaris Indian Pacific . Ice Queen The Fin Octopus Weed Philatus Leap ofFaith Amazonia Karma The Planet. Blow Daddy-O . intheMist Gorillas Friends from theDeep FAGI Code 65 Len's Rule oftheSea No Mistaking ButtressMarmolata . Mickey Mouse St Elmo'sFiré Limited Edition. Moose's Tooth . The Ritz. Howling Stone . Facedancin' . Crab Party Water Wings Havana Vikings . Magic Mountain . Bad YoungBrother The Vanishing The LeanMachine . S2 . . . . . S1 . . . S1 . S2 . . . . . S1 . S1 S2 . . . . . S1 S1 S3 S0 . . . . S0 S2 S1 ...... S2 S1 . . S1 . . 356 344 338 377 347 391 391 341 348 379 393 342 377 339 396 377 349 339 254 344 338 394 253 356 329 349 377 326 377 343 357 379 409 393 251 340 346 388 385 380 347 395 347 361 345 333 346 375 317 191 412 313 191 193 182 191 191 318 313 313 415 315 191 **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω E1 **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω E2 **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω *Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω HVS **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Graded List- Traditional Routes Spittle ‘n' Spume Spittle ‘n' The Spook. Eskimo Nell. Rufty's Roll Up . Jurrasic Coast Pimps Ixtlan The Peccary The Adventures ofPortland Bill392 Mars Mankini Biscuit Calcitron The Tool . Mansion Pond . Tudor Rose Grandma's Groove Buccaneer . The Laws TraverseThe Thunderball . Bon Firé . The VapourEdge Ganymede . Chasm Groove When LandBecomesSea Stroof . Billy Pigg Elysium Dark SideoftheSun. October Lady. Sinbad . fromGirl theSnow. Country Yellow Wall Strongbow . The Conger Test Department Sapphire Hung, Swung and… Vortices Children oftheSun. Ximenes Squid . The Gift Strapiombo Prudence . Black Sunshine Behemoth Nutcracker ExitII. Lightning Wall Hyperbole The GodSlot. Thunder Groove Jo The GoldenFleece Dublin Packet Baboon Argo . Light YearBuzz Fraggle Rock . The BigEasy . . andErnie Bert Oceanid . Insecticide . Gypsy Ray ofSunshine . . S1 ...... S1 . S0 ...... S0 . . . S0 . S1 . . . . 367 333 253 259 387 258 349 387 258 385 409 341 349 380 346 333 397 358 406 384 378 394 385 348 392 391 344 387 393 347 391 392 397 378 396 399 391 259 364 380 396 395 387 398 391 259 395 405 180 190 316 412 313 412 319 316 191 317 415 191 313 414 **Ω **Ω *Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω *Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω *Ω **Ω **Ω Diff *Ω *Ω **Ω *Ω *Ω VDiff *Ω *Ω **Ω **Ω *Ω **Ω *Ω S **Ω **Ω *Ω *Ω *Ω *Ω HS *Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω VS **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω **Ω *Ω **Ω **Ω 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Airy Legs. Airy Hangover . Gimcrack . Benny Mistaken . Identity Batt Crack Mellow Yellow Tobacco Road . Mojo-Pin Silhouette Arete . Freda . Spread Eagle Old Faithful Isis . 'B' Line. Hangover . High Street Pulpit Route . . Helix The Chimney . Chockney Felix . Grottle Double Chockstone . Avernus . The Gangway Intersection First . Corner Second Corner Face ButtressCormorant West Oran Temporary Lifestyle Balcony Whynot Wall Street . Bottomless Buttress . Ledgend Resurrection The Coral Prison . . Revelation Chimney Tensor II The Asp. Sweet SA . The Heidelberg Creature . . Tatra Troubled Waters The Maypole Aubergine StreetQuality Ledgend Direct Aventura The LongGoodbye . Astrid True . Identity Via Christina Transcript Direct Finale Groove Damson . Valkyrie Buttress Direct . Dorset ...... S0 ...... S1 . . . . S0 . . . 345 398 366 393 354 333 258 379 409 407 395 367 387 365 364 406 321 366 407 367 345 366 366 346 365 408 399 408 405 320 406 404 321 379 355 382 387 387 388 409 253 405 321 404 387 379 399 364 342 315 318 414 190 318 317 412 315 318 315 410 45

Swanage Lulworth Portland 62 74 88 96 122 136 150 168 178 186 196 226 102 114 Page Summary A series of fine walls perched above vegetated vegetated above A serieswalls perched of fine the boulder to down trail slopes that gradually go at in the mid-to-hard to Lots of routes beach. going. can be tough approaches The grades. including one of cliffs, Wallsend The best of the Long and pumpy Portland. walls on the finest A longish grades. in the mid-to-high routes tidal access. and slightly walk approach The north has magnificent section of the cliff are the south the walls whilst to lines, harder The classics. with lots of mid-grade plastered southern end is tidal. solos near and deep water Shorter routes though abseil reach, to Easy Bill. Portland most routes. needed for are approaches Huge and walls. An atmospheric series of caves solos plus some good deep water roof-climbs dependant and Condition and easy. both hard the DWSs. the highest of tides for requires The best variety. with great A collection of cliffs the others but sport and steep has hard routes, Sheltered lines. grade popular low-to-mid have thing. first and gets the sun from technical tough and and some fine rock Compact most popular cliffs. climbs on one of Portland's and it is the best place easier sportMany routes the wind. morning from sun or shelter for One of the best and most popular areas with areas most popular the best and One of Long formations. flowstone spectacular some access and easy spread good grade a routes, sector. this a must-visit make to get the spot and the first Good long routes It can be dusty morning coast. on the west sun all lines are although the well-travelled at times, clean. some of the longest mid- with area An extensive is also a good There on Portland. routes grade the descent path close to It is set of easier climbs. of Blacknor. other sections and on the path to of huge a number the sea are by down Located some fine lower-grade home to that are boulders The superb. are setting and rock The sportclimbs. descent needs care. great A rock. climbs on fine A superb set of face The in the 6s and 7s. routes technical place for Easy short usually cruxsections are and intense. access. and quick and many rock with excellent An appealing wall and technical are Most of the routes routes. very is a pleasant The base of the crag fingery. access. with easy crag A fine quick-tick spot. has Cliff the Back its neighbour, to In contrast the mid-to-high pitches in some long stamina with lots venues some small are Nearby grades. of popular easier lines. tions C C C C Restric Multi- Abseil J J J Tides % % % % % Sun U U U R } R R R R R R R U W Faded symbol means that only some of the routes - are tidal / require and abseil / are multi-pitch / are restricted / are multi-pitch and abseil / are tidal / require - are routes some of the means that only symbol Faded 5 to 15 min 5 min 2 to 15 min 5 to 13 min 12 to 20 min 20 to 12 12 to 15 min 15 to 12 min 20 to 12 8 to 12 min 15 to 20 min 10 min 10 min 10 to 14 min 10 to 20 min 15 to 20 min Approach F A F F G G G G G G G F F F - 5 17 16 16 14 27 28 31 21 44 54 65 24 7a+ and up and 7a+ 2 15 23 78 38 29 26 33 31 53 56 34 28 39 6b to 7a to 6b 7 4 6 4 8 11 10 10 13 19 81 37 20 21 5 to 6a+ 5 to - 1 1 5 2 2 8 3 1 8 11 37 28 22 up to 4+ to up 74 40 65 55 64 78 64 53 28 115 134 107 126 224 Routes White Hole White Blacknor North Blacknor Wallsend North Wallsend Blacknor South Blacknor Wallsend South Wallsend Blacknor Beach Blacknor Battleship Edge Battleship Coastguard Cliff Coastguard

Blacknor Central Blacknor Lighthouse Cliffs The Area Cuttings

Blacknor Far South Far Blacknor

Battleship Back Cliff Back Battleship

Cheyne Weares Area Weares Cheyne

East Coast East Coastguard to the BIll the to Coastguard Wallsend Battleship Blacknor Cliffs Blacknor Portland Destination Planner Destination Portland

Portland Lulworth Swanage East Coast Coastguard to the BIll Wallsend Battleship Blacknor Cliffs Cheyne WearesArea Battleship Back Cliff Blacknor Far South The Cuttings AreaThe Lighthouse Cliffs Blacknor Central Coastguard Cliff Battleship Edge Blacknor Beach Wallsend South Blacknor South Wallsend North Blacknor North White Hole Routes 224 134 107 126 115 78 64 55 28 53 64 65 40 74 up to 4+ 22 28 37 11 5 1 1 8 2 2 8 1 3 - 5 to 6a+ 37 81 21 20 13 19 10 10 11 7 8 6 4 4 6b to 7a 38 78 23 34 56 53 31 33 26 29 39 28 15 2 7a+ andup 65 54 21 24 31 28 27 44 17 16 16 14 5 - F F A F F G G G G G G G F F Approach 15to20min 10to20min 10to14min 10min 10min 15to20min 8to12min 12 to 15 min 5to13min 2to15min 5min 12 to 20 min 12 to 20 min 5to15min Faded symbol means that only some ofthe routes -are tidal /require and abseil / are multi-pitch / are restricted W U U U R R R R R R } R U R Sun % % % % % Tides J J J Abseil Multi- pitch Restric C C C C tions approach walk andslightly tidalaccess. routes inthemid-to-high grades. A longish the finest walls on Portland. Longandpumpy The bestofthe Wallsend cliffs, includingoneof grades. The approaches canbetough going. beach. Lotsofroutes to goat inthemid-to-hard slopes thatgradually trail down to theboulder offine A series wallsperched above vegetated of populareasierlines. grades. Nearby are somesmallvenues withlots some longstamina pitchesinthemid-to-high In contrast to itsneighbour, theBack Cliff has spot. A finequick-tick crag witheasy access. fingery. Thebaseofthecrag pleasant isa very routes. Mostoftheroutes are technical and An appealingwall withexcellent rock andmany and quick access. sectionsareandintense.crux usually short Easy place for technical routes inthe6sand7s. The A superbsetofface climbsonfine rock. A great descent needscare. climbs.sport The rock and setting are superb. The boulders thatare hometo somefinelower-grade Located down by theseaare anumber ofhuge and onthepathto othersections ofBlacknor. set ofeasierclimbs. Itiscloseto thedescentpath grade routes onPortland. There isalsoagood An extensive area withsome ofthelongestmid- clean. at times, althoughthewell-travelled linesare all sunonthewest coast.morning Itcanbedusty Good longroutes andthefirst spot to getthe make thisamust-visit sector. routes, agoodgrade spread andeasy access some spectacular flowstone formations. Long One ofthebestandmostpopularareas with for sun or shelter from morning thewind. routesMany easier sport and it isthebestplace climbs ononeofPortland's most popularcliffs. Compact rock andsome fine tough and technical and getsthesun from first thing. have popularlow-to-mid grade lines. Sheltered has hardroutes, andsteep sport but theothers A collectionofcliffs with great variety. The best requires thehighestof tidesfor theDWSs. both hard andeasy. Condition dependantand roof-climbs plussomegooddeepwater solos ofcaves series An atmospheric andwalls. Huge approaches are neededfor mostroutes. Portland Bill. Easy to reach, thoughabseil routesShorter anddeepwater solosnear endistidal. southern plastered withlotsofmid-grade classics. The harder lines, whilst to thesouthwalls are section ofthecliffThe north hasmagnificent Summary Page 226 196 186 178 168 150 136 122 114 102 74 62 96 88

Swanage Lulworth Portland 310 324 336 352 362 372 402 250 252 258 274 286 296 Page Summary Three huge walls with several of the longest with several walls huge Three more- are The top-outs at Swanage. routes of the other Swanage than many reasonable Abseil approaches. cliffs. cave, with a huge and spectacular area A varied routes and toughest most impressive the home to is also a sportThere quarry and trad in Dorset. non-tidal. Mostly routes. with some good hard wall soloing with superb deep water area A varied bolted with some hard, and a magnificent cave access. Easy roof-climbs. with The best sport at Swanage climbing crag abseil An easy in the higher grades. mostly routes and access via a non-tidal ledge. approach with sections of sea cliff trad contrasting Four beginners' itself being a great Troughs Cattle starta non-tidal ledges. from Most routes area. Abseil approach. has section of Swanage The most extensive It is a big the grades. across routes classic trad abseil with free-hanging area and committing being the norm. and loose top-outs approaches Short Swanage. of taste a first for cliff A great at very ledge - mostly a large above routes the car access from Quick grades. reasonable Zawn. serious Black Also includes the more park. A collection of sportA collection of very on a number climbs has a Rock Church formations. rock spectacular Climbing sport of mid-grade good line-up routes. these cliffs. is banned on collection with a large sea caves super-steep Two There sport solos. of hard deep water pitches and banned Climbing is DWSs. easier also a few are on these cliffs. along most roof with a large topped-off A long cliff, sport lines are The harder routes of its length. also lines are of mid-grade whilst a good number Climbing is banned on these cliffs. available. with many and bays A collection of quarried walls More sportroutes. technical and strenuous fine the wind than other Swanage from sheltered base. access and a level with easy crags quarried Hedbury Quarry wall, is a long sheltered Hedbury Big sportwith a collection of good lines. - a pair of big adven Hole are and Smokey Cove the corner. just around located sea cliffs turous at One of the most popular sections of cliff A sport climbing quarry and some Swanage. Non-tidal, roofs. on the sea-level routes steeper the rock. pool cut into swimming and it has its own tions X X X X C C C C Restric pitch Multi- K K K K Abseil J J J J J J J J J J Tides % % % % % % Sun U U U U U E E E E E E E E Faded symbol means that only some of the routes - are tidal / require and abseil / are multi-pitch / are restricted / are multi-pitch and abseil / are tidal / require - are routes some of the means that only symbol Faded 25 min min 20 to 10 10 min 15 min 20 min 30 min 25 min 25 min 45 min 40 min 30 min 10 min 5 min Approach F F F F F F F F F F F F F 5 6 10 13 18 16 14 38 33 32 43 59 36 E4 upwards 7a+ upwards 7a+ 9 9 9 10 10 14 16 51 22 31 40 43 36 E1 to E3 E1 to 6b to 7a 6b to 5 5 6 5 4 11 10 13 13 14 32 35 26 5 to 6a+ 5 to HS to HVS HS to - - - - 2 3 1 8 6 2 1 4 16 up to S up to up to 4+ up to 83 95 36 41 86 46 46 20 49 35 79 123 106 Routes Hole Stair Hole Subluminal Church Rock Church Blackers Hole Blackers Lulworth East Lulworth Guillemot and Cattle Troughs Cattle Durdle Door to to Door Durdle Destination Planner Destination Dancing Ledge Boulder Ruckle The Promenade Winspit Quarries Winspit Cormorant Ledge Cormorant Fisherman's Ledge Fisherman's

Hedbury and Smokey and Smokey Hedbury

Swanage Lulworth

and Lulworth and Swanage

Portland Lulworth Swanage Swanage Lulworth Hedbury andSmokey Fisherman's Ledge Cormorant Ledge Winspit Quarries The Promenade Boulder Ruckle Dancing Ledge Durdle Doorto Cattle Troughs Guillemot and Lulworth East Blackers Hole Church Rock Subluminal Stair Hole Hole Routes 123 106 46 46 86 41 79 35 49 20 83 36 95 up to 4+ up to S 16 2 8 1 3 2 6 1 4 - - - - HS to HVS 5 to 6a+ 35 32 26 13 14 13 10 11 4 6 5 5 5 6b to 7a E1 to E3 22 51 36 43 40 31 16 14 10 10 9 9 9 7a+ upwards E4 upwards 33 36 38 59 43 32 14 16 18 13 10 6 5 F F F F F F F F F F F F F Approach 10min 10 to 20 min 25min 30min 40min 45min 25min 25min 30min 20min 15min 5min 10min Faded symbol means that only some ofthe routes -are tidal /require and abseil /are multi-pitch /are restricted E E E E E E E E U U U U U Sun % % % % % % Tides J J J J J J J J J J Abseil K K K K Multi- pitch Restric C C C C X X X X tions wall withsomegoodhard routes. Mostly non-tidal. in Dorset. and trad quarry There isalsoasport home to themostimpressive andtoughest routes A varied area withahugeandspectacular cave, cliffs.approaches. Abseil reasonable thanmany oftheotherSwanage routes atSwanage. The top-outs are more- Three hugewalls withseveral ofthelongest and ithasitsown swimming poolcutinto therock. steeper routes onthesea-level roofs. Non-tidal, Swanage. andsome climbingquarry A sport One ofthemostpopularsectionscliff at turous seacliffs located justaround thecorner. Cove andSmokey Holeare apairofbigadven- lines.with acollectionofgoodsport Big Hedbury isalongsheltered wall, Quarry Hedbury quarried crags witheasy accessandalevel base. sheltered from thewindthanotherSwanage fine technical andstrenuousroutes. sport More wallsA collectionofquarried andbays withmany available. Climbingisbannedonthesecliffs. whilst agoodnumber ofmid-grade linesare also of itslength. The harderroutes linesare sport A longcliff, topped-off withalarge roof alongmost on thesecliffs. are alsoafew easierDWSs. Climbingisbanned pitchesanddeepwaterof hard solos. sport There Two super-steep seacaves with alarge collection is bannedonthesecliffs. routes.good line-upofmid-grade sport Climbing spectacular rock formations. Church Rock hasa climbsonanumber ofvery A collectionofsport park. Also includes the more Black serious Zawn. reasonable grades. Quick access from thecar routes above alarge ledge-mostly atvery A great cliff for afirst taste of Swanage. Short approaches andloosetop-outs beingthe norm. and committing area withfree-hanging abseil classic trad routes across thegrades. Itisabig The mostextensive sectionofSwanage has Abseil approach. area. Most routes from anon-tidalledges. start Cattle Troughs itselfbeingagreat beginners' Four contrasting trad sectionsofseacliff with approach andaccessviaanon-tidalledge. routes mostly in thehighergrades. An easy abseil climbingcrag atSwanageThe bestsport with roof-climbs. Easy access. and amagnificentcave withsomehard, bolted A varied area withsuperbdeepwater soloing Summary Page 252 250 402 372 362 352 336 324 310 296 286 274 258

Swanage Lulworth Portland