BOULDERING FOR BEGINNERS By David Flanagan Featuring excerpts from Bouldering Essentials Three Rock Books This free ebook is aimed at those new to bouldering - indoors or outdoors. It contains everything you need to know to get started from explaining what boulder- ing is, describing how to stay safe, advice on choosing the right equipment to tips for bouldering outdoors on rock for the first time. This ebook’s contents are abbreviated and excerpted from the print book BOUL- DERING ESSENtiALS which runs to 192 pages and is packed with lots more information on the topics addressed in this ebook as well as many other slightly more advanced topics such as movement, dy- namics, strategy, training and destinations. The print book also contains over 200 stunning photos from the best boul- dering areas in the world including Bishop, Castle Hill, Fontainebleau, Hueco Tanks and Rocklands, BOUL- DERING ESSENtiALS provides the inspiration and information you need to reach your full potential as a boul- derer. Find out more about Bouldering Essentials here ISBN 978-0-9567874-1-5 AUTHOR David Flanagan FORMAT Paperback (192pp) PRICE €25 (including delivery) Reviews of Bouldering Essentials “If you are in your early stages of climbing or know someone who is keen to learn more about this sport then I couldn’t recommend this book enough. Even if you have been boul- dering a long time it is a useful coffee table aid to help explain to non climbing friends exactly why it is you don’t just walk round the back all the time.” Dan Varian, UK Climbing “I can’t recommend this book enough for the boulderer starting out on the whole adventure - I wish I’d had it twenty years ago. I’d have been a better climber, I’d have touched much more rock and I’d probably have burnt my ropes.” John Watson, Stone Country Press “They say a core part of the coach’s role in any sport is to inspire and motivate. Flanagan has clearly taken this on board, and the obvious effort spent on perfecting the visual appeal of Bouldering Essentials has paid off....The array of world class photos is one of the book’s great strengths....It’s like the book version of your mate who climbs several grades harder than you – there to offer tips, help with tactics and show you the next level really is possible.“ Dave Westlake, RockAndRun.com “Bouldering Essentials succeeds in not only telling how to play but also inspires to get out there and do it. If you were wondering what to get your bouldering-curious new boyfriend for Christmas, now you know. “ Duncan Critchley, UKBouldering.com “Bouldering Essentials... covers all the basic to advanced training and the focus is defining and describing everything. You can more or less start anywhere and start reading/learning. All-in-all, a good book for the ones who want an informative bouldering book that will make you understand everything the advanced boulderers are talking about during a bouldering session or trip.” Jens Larssen, 8a.nu “Designed to cater to all, from experienced boulderers to complete novice climbers to those who may climb in other disciplines (traditional, sport, etc) and interested in trying their hand at this type of climbing, there is a wealth of information to delve into...Throughout the book, there is beautiful photos used to tempt and inspire.” Neal McQuaid, Irish Mountain Log “Bouldering Essentials is a must have book for anyone remotely interested in bouldering, its like a bible for boulderers.” Ian Fisher, DiscoverBouldering.com CONTENTS INTRODUCTIOn 7 EQUipMENT 10 STAYinG SafE 14 MOVEMENT 18 INDOOR CLIMbinG 26 STARTING OUTDOORs 30 GLOssaRY 36 Bouldering is climbing without a rope on boulders, cliffs or indoor climbing walls where a fall is unlikely to result in injury INTRODUCTION WHY BOULDER? Bouldering is an excellent way to introduce Climbing is a primal human instinct and boulder- beginners to rock climbing. It requires minimal ing, possibly with the exception of soloing, is the equipment, it’s safe and there isn’t the distraction simplest, purest form of rock climbing. While solo- of ropework or fear of heights. ing is high risk and only for experienced climbers, bouldering is playful and accessible to all. Bouldering, and climbing in general, is quite unique in that both sexes can compete on a Rock climbing is often incorrectly perceived as an reasonably even footing. In bouldering it’s up to activity that requires massive strength, but move- each individual to figure out a way to climb that ment skills, creativity and imagination are just as, if is tailored to their strengths (power, flexibility, bal- not more, important. ance etc.). Bouldering has existed in a very informal way Later in your climbing career if you move on to since the late 19th century. And while it has other forms of climbing, the movement skills you always had its devotees, until recently most have learnt while bouldering will stand to you. climbers considered it as nothing more than a distraction on wet days or as a means of training For route climbers bouldering is an excellent way for ‘real’ climbing. to get stronger and improve their movement skills. It’s also a good option when the weather is too However, in the last two decades its popularity cold to stand around belaying. has surged largely thanks to the invention of boul- dering pads and indoor climbing walls and what In these busy times bouldering is ideal for a ‘quick was once a niche activity is now a recognised hit‘ of climbing. It’s a good use of limited free time, climbing discipline, a valid pursuit in itself with a even an hour of bouldering is enough to get a proliferation of guidebooks, videos, indoor walls workout. and competitions dedicated to it. Bouldering is the most social of the climbing dis- Bouldering is the climbing equivalent of the 100m ciplines, it’s possible to boulder alongside others sprint. Risk, stamina, exposure and ropework taking turns climbing, spotting each other, sharing are removed from the equation and the focus is advice and encouragement. on movement rather than getting to the top by any means. Bouldering requires and develops FACING PAGE Dave Flanagan on the Arete Right Of The Fin, strength, balance, flexibility, coordination, determi- Glendalough, Ireland. nation and problem-solving. PREVIOUS PAGE Diarmuid Smyth in Roundstone, Ireland. The definition of bouldering is broad, as boulder- ing can mean different things to different people. It can be about pushing limits and climbing hard, getting outdoors with friends and having fun, discovering new problems or training for route climbing. BOULDER PROBLEMS A bouldering pad is a rectangular crash mat that consists of multiple layers of foam covered in a A bouldering route is referred to as a problem. heavy duty material. The pad is placed on the The term reflects the fact that getting to the top is ground where the climber is expected to fall so as as much about figuring out what to do as actually to cushion their landing. doing it. Spotting is guiding a falling climber safely to the At indoor climbing walls problems follow specific ground. The spotter’s goal is to ensure the climber hand and foot holds (usually marked with tags or lands safely rather than to catch them in their colour-coded holds). A problems won’t necessari- arms. ly go straight up, it may go across - a traverse - or weave over, around or under features, sometimes Like most disciplines of climbing, risk in boulder- seeking difficulty, other times avoiding it. ing can be avoid or pursued. By choosing to stick to low problems with good landings you can stay Most bouldering is done on boulders and reasonably safe or you can push your limits on outcrops, but the base of larger cliffs and even high, difficult problems. buildings are used. Bear the following points in mind: If the cliff or boulder is very high or the rock becomes loose or vegetated then the problem • The matting will cushion your fall but this may be considered finished at a reasonable height doesn’t mean you can’t hurt yourself. Land rather than at the top. upright, soak up the impact by bending your legs and rolling to the side if necessary. THE GOAL • Don’t wear a harness while bouldering. Put at its simplest, the goal of bouldering is to get • Remove any rings or jewellery, they could get to the top. You may succeed on some problems jammed with very nasty consequences. on your first try while others can take weeks of • Watch out for anyone underneath you while effort. Bouldering has a strong sense of aesthetic, you are climbing and stay alert when walking be it for the feel of a particular move, the architec- around. ture of a problem or the elegance of a solution. • Don’t sit or lie around on the mats. Boulderers seek out problems that are enjoy- • Always give way to any climber that is higher able to climb, this may be because they take an on the wall than you. impressive route up the boulder, have some really nice holds or very interesting movements. • Children should be watched closely, they could be seriously injured by a falling climber. Some problems reflect the playful aspect of bouldering, for example those that are solved by a FACING PAGE Peter McMahon on Highawatta, Derryrush, running jump, a leap from an adjacent boulder or Ireland. without using the hands. SafETY Bouldering is one of the safest forms of rock climbing and serious injuries are rare.