TheVolume 49, ArêteSummer 2018

The Himalaya's First Via Ferrata Page 18

New Zealand Summer Guiding Page 24 Skaha Bluffs History Page 28

Maximizing the Practicum/ Mentor Experience Page 38 Contents Editorial It's a Crappy Job but Somebody Has to Do it! 32 President’s Perspective 4 Active Listening and The Interpersonal Gap 34 Tucker Talk 5 Maximizing the Practicum/Mentor Experience 38

News Gear Reviews Training and Assessment Program Update 6 Pieps Micro Avalanche Beacon Review 40 Technical Director’s Report 8 2019 G3 Alpinist Glide Skin Review 42 ACMG Partnership Update 10 Black Diamond ATC Pilot Review 44 ACMG Scholarship News 12 Member Updates Spotlight on ACMG Members Diapers and Vows 47 Jean-Philippe LeBlanc Wins Sylvie Marois Award 14 In Memory of Brian Greenwood 48 Beef Jerky & Waders —First One Day Link up of Changes in ACMG Membership 49 Theft and Gift Ice Climbs 16 ACMG Officers, Directors, Advisors, The Sky's Way—The Himalaya's First Via Ferrata 18 Staff and Committees 50 ACMG Member Photo Gallery 22

KONSEAL FL Features Gain traction with a technical New Zealand Summer Guiding 24 approach shoe designed for stability and comfort on fast Skaha Bluffs Climbing History 28 and light adventures in serious FIRE!! Is your Backcountry Lodge Prepared? 30 mountain terrain. The Arête “That's what's so amazing about climbing—it's not just a sport. It's a lifestyle, it's a way of being creative, of connecting with yourself and with nature.” Chris Sharma

Editor-in-Chief: Shaun King Editorial Consultants: Mary Clayton, Peter Tucker, Marc Piché Editorial Policy The Arêteattempts to print every submission believed to be of interest to the ACMG membership including items that challenge the Association to examine its actions or direction. Ar- ticles containing insulting or defamatory sections will be edited or not published at all. Technical articles are subject to review by the Technical Committee. Previous issues of The Arêtemay be found online at: DIA NA N M CA O F U O N T acmg.ca/02member/communication/newsletter.asp N A

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S A Article submissions and advertising information a a KONSEAL FL SHOE - RED BEACH SAFETY cmg.c Proud Partner Submission guidelines outlined on the ACMG members website. Submit articles and ads to [email protected]

Cover photo: Alex Geary teaching on the Tasman in New Zealand. Photo: Lisa Kilpatrick S18_Konseal FL Shoe Pro Ad File Size: 7.5” x 9.5” The Arête 2 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 3 The Arête Editorial President’s Perspective Tucker Talk By Marc Ledwidge By Peter Tucker

Your board of directors wrapped up two standards builds public trust in the profession, and public trust One of the cornerstone principles of my • Evolving the ACMG News into the all-colour, high quality days of meetings in early June. The most in you as members of the association. life is the belief that we become health- publication you are currently reading notable change is the association taking The ACMG technical and executive directors regularly get ier and more successful when bridges over the training of guides and instructors requests for exemptions or extensions to timelines on these poli- rise, and walls fall. This feels particularly All of these comprise the promise of our brand, and all of from TRU after they gave us notice last Au- cies. If the requests are denied, it may appear that the associa- acute in the current political climate not these have helped to demolish the old walls and construct gust that they would no longer run the Ca- tion is being inflexible. I can assure you that we work very hard only in places such as the Middle East bridges of trust. The fact that we have been able to do this, nadian Mountain and Ski Guide program. on each individual case. In the end, the priority must be the and Korea, but closer to home between while respecting our roots and traditions, is a remarkable The new Training and Assessment (TAP) integrity of our technical and membership standards. Alberta and BC, and between Canada achievement that I attribute to the skill and dedication of program is well underway and we have confidence in the team and the US, though I will avoid specifics lest I find myself my team and the many people who have volunteered to sit that is running this program. To allow enough time to revise the ACMG President and Mountain Guide Marc Ledwidge lives in unable to return to ride in Utah next year. on boards and committees. My hat is off to you all. program and fully assess its effectiveness, the board decided to Banff, AB. Walls come in a variety of shapes and formats. Some, keep it in-house for at least the next three years. In this issue’s President’s Perspective, President Marc such as the Great Wall of and the Berlin Wall are/were Ledwidge speaks about the ACMG’s dual mandate that We are facing several challenges on other fronts. They es- highly visible. They were designed to be imposing physi- balances protecting the public and serving its members, sentially come down to our dual or “bifurcated mandate”. How cal barriers to invasion or migration and, for better or for and how the former has taken priority over the past dozen do we balance protecting the public interest with serving the worse, served their purpose of self-protection extremely years. At the spring meeting of the ACMG Board of Direc- needs of our members? Those two primary, but potentially con- PUB JULBO_ACMG_17_05_18_HR.pdf 1 2018-05-22 8:54 AM well. Other types of walls (those established by tradition, tors, where this topic was discussed at length, it was rightly flicting objectives, have been highlighted by the current litiga- policy or culture) may be less “in-your-face” but are no less pointed out by some directors that taking care of our mem- tion against the association and other ongoing processes. After effective at accomplishing the type of self-protection de- bers and providing excellent training is the best way to lengthy consideration of several possible scenarios, the board sired by the group within. At least with physical walls, you protect the public. I would venture to say that the converse has decided to reaffirm our dual mandate but ensure that prior- know what you’re up against—suffering, injury, perhaps is even more correct. It has been the bridge of trust that ity continues to be given to protecting the public. It was felt that death. With invisible ones, you may not even know they’re we have forged with the public that is responsible for the even with the current challenges, this was reasonable. there, until you begin to see the casualties of trust and extremely positive way that ACMG members are perceived As previously mentioned, the ACMG has been named spirit mount up. by all its stakeholders. This has not only translated into bet- in a lawsuit concerning one of our members following a The ACMG used to have an invisible wall around it. As a ter negotiating power with government and our partners, guided ski touring trip, which resulted in a fatality in 2015. member of the public, I had known the association existed, it has indirectly provided work for you. The member is insured under the ACMG group policy. As but I didn’t really know what it stood for and how it worked. When there is risk of harm to the public, trust is every- such, their defense is provided by the insurance company. My outsider’s impression was that it was an elite group of thing. There is no more powerful way of demonstrating Similarly, the association is insured under that policy and technically competent people, driven largely by accom- your trustworthiness than to belong to an association that is being provided separate legal representation by the in- plishment and ego. While that was, to some extent, true, certifies that you have been trained and assessed to a rig- surance company. The general nature of the allegations I quickly learned there was so much more for the world to orous standard, that you are required to remain current in against the ACMG revolve around negligent training, edu- see and understand about this group. A story needed to be your practice, and that you are held accountable to a code cation with respect to guiding practices, and procedures. C told and, in that telling, bridges would begin to span the of conduct. That’s the value of certification. If your profes- Counsel for the member and the ACMG are mounting a de- M twin gulfs of misunderstanding and mistrust. sion is trusted, then you will be as well. fense, and as of early June, that is where the lawsuits sit. The Y As Mountain Guide and ACMG Graphic and IT Specialist Did I hear someone ask how you as individual mem- strategy for defense of the ACMG is, for obvious reasons, CM Chris Miller likes to say, a brand is far more than a logo—it bers can help? Awesome question! The best ways are to confidential. Our defense counsel is comfortable with their MY comprises everything that makes up our promise to our work only within your scope of practice, post regularly to ability to successfully defend the claim against the ACMG. CY stakeholders: the MCR and report incidents on the newly revised system This is the first time that a claim has been brought CMY • Changing our objects and bylaws to reflect our commit- coming soon from the incident review committee. By help- against the association in a case like this. There are already K ment to protecting the public ing the profession to be more accountable and transparent, several reminders that are worth sharing. Administering the • Bringing members of the public onto our board of directors you are ultimately helping yourself and your colleagues. waiver properly is critical. This includes printing it in colour, • Establishing a complaint and conduct review process that to ensure that the yellow and red highlighted sections are follows the principles of natural justice clear. Working within one’s scope of practice, supervision ACMG Executive Director Peter Tucker lives in Bragg Creek, AB. guidelines, and complying with all ACMG policies are key • Creating a more clearly defined scope of practice factors in having insurance coverage and representation. • Ensuring our technical standards are the highest they can be Members should recognize that having insurance is not just to satisfy land manager requirements. Insurance is in place to • Building a partnership program that is the envy of most ensure that proper legal representation can be provided, even in other associations the event of unsupported claims of negligence. Claims such as • Negotiating member services that allow you to function as these remind us of why we developed our high technical stan- guides and instructors more easily and cost-effectively dards, strict policies for membership, continued professional • Developing the MCR into an effective information-sharing development program and member audits. Holding to these JULBO-CANADA.CA tool

The Arête 4 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 5 The Arête News Training and Assessment Program Update By Derek Wilding

On May 1, 2018, the ACMG officially took Looking towards the fall, in September we are planning to over the administration of the training and offer an abbreviated guide course specifically for both ap- assessment programs for the climbing gym prentice and certified ski guides. This program will be designed to instructor, instructor, via recognize the competencies demonstrated during the ski program ferrata guide, hiking guide, rock guide, ski assessment process in order to limit some of the repetitive train- G3 UNIVERSITY Should I ski locked out? guide, and alpine guide certificates. This ad- ing and assessment components the two programs currently share. Your touring binding should do two things: keep you in and ministrative change will have little impact on More details specific to this beta course will be shared through the let you out. Locking the toe defeats the release mechanism the high standard of training and assessment Informalex in July. and puts you at risk. So don’t be a hoser, choose a binding that reliably supports ski mode in all conditions. that was previously provided by the Canadian To contact members of the Training and Assessment Program Mountain & Ski Guide Program and will increase the nimbleness team: and flexibility of the administrative processes. In an effort to facilitate increased access to student grants and TAP Director Derek Wilding; [email protected] educational funding, the Training and Assessment Program (TAP) TAP Operations Manager Geoff Osler; [email protected] is in the process of applying to be recognized as a private career TAP Administration Laura Newsome; [email protected] training institution in Alberta. Our approval timeline has yet to be confirmed, but we will keep the membership updated. The first round of TAP courses was offered in the spring, and ACMG Scholarship Committee Chair, Rock Guide and CGI 3 Derek included; two CGI courses, five TRCI courses, three AHG cours- Wilding lives on Piers Island, BC es, one HG exam, and two GTR courses. 2018 Guide Exam and Climbing Instructor Pass Rates 2018 2017 2016 Qualification Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate Apprentice Ski Guide 28 93% 32 84% 27 82% Ski Guide 29 79% 28 82% 33 82% Climbing Gym Instructor 1 47 (ytd) 87% 75 96% 85 85% Climbing Gym Instructor 2 5 100% 7 86% 11 91% Via Ferrata Guide 5 100% 7 100% N/A N/A ION The ION with its unique toe jaw Thanks The listed individuals and businesses provided operational support for the ski guide and via ferrata guide certificates and the listed dynamics absorbs roughly 50% more energy than other tech bindings climbing facilities generously provided their venue for at least one climbing gym instructor course over the past year. This support is critical to the before releasing. Meaning you can successful conduct of guide training skiing courses, ski guide exams, and the climbing gym instructor program. use it for what it was designed for— you skiing in ski mode without the Ski Guide Stream Climbing Gym Instructor Program Via Ferrata Guide Stream fear of prerelease, eh. genuineguidegear.com/G3U Charlie Locke (Lake Louise Ski Resort) Grand River Rocks; Kitchener, ON Sea to Sky Via Ferrata Revelstoke Mountain Resort Guelph Grotto; Guelph, ON Sutton Place Hotel University of Manitoba; Winnipeg, MB Whistler Heli-skiing Elevation Place; Canmore, AB Whistler Blackcomb Ski Resort Wilson Climbing Ctr; U of A, Edmonton, AB Selkirk Tangiers Heli-skiing Climbing Ctr (Stronghold); Calgary, AB Great Canadian Heli-skiing The Boulders Climbing Gym; Sannichton, BC Silver King Helicopters Climb Base5 Climbing Gym; Coquitlam, BC RWDI Engineers (Environmental Services) Peninsula Co-op Climbing Ctr; Victoria, BC CMH Revelstoke Northern Rockies Rec Ctr; Fort Nelson, BC

CMH Bugaboos Cliffside Climbing Gym; Kamloops, BC SKIER'S CHOICE Alpine Helicopters Ground Up Climbing Ctr; Squamish, BC Simon Fraser University; Burnaby, BC Richmond Oval; Richmond BC The Arête 6 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 7 The Arête News Technical Director’s Report Apprentice Guide Timelines Activities Planned for Next Quarter • Complete TRCI manual By Marc Piché Management of the apprentice guide timelines is still proving to be a resource intensive task. This spring consisted of manag- • Significant gains on technical manuals ing four cases of members who missed their required rock guide Many of the tasks planned for late fall of I have set up manual review forums in Ryver where • Complete SoP revision exam dates. We deal with these on a case-by-case basis with one 2017 and winter of 2018 were put on the chapters will be posted for review by the Technical Com- • Continue to work on training program review plan solution being a requirement to take a two-day refresher course back burner while we managed the urgent mittee and key instructors. and be signed up for the next exam to maintain membership. In business of transitioning the training pro- I have solicited the membership for illustrations along most cases the members in question are not proactively manag- gram from Thompson Rivers University to ACMG Technical Director and Mountain Guide Marc Piché lives with some other sources. The response has been over- ing their careers, leading to a significant amount of communica- the ACMG. Despite this significant surprise, in Canmore, AB. whelming. I will use the Ryver forum to select an illustrator tion and direction. we managed to get some headway on a num- once we have some options to chose from. ber of projects and currently have some sig- We are actively considering splitting the Technical Man- nificant momentum going into the summer. ual into two separate documents, The Technical Manual for Variances Ski Guides and the Technical Manual for Climbing Guides. No new variances were issues this spring. So far, If we were to do this, the manuals would be much more existing variances have been re-issued for two Training Program Review reasonable in size while being more effective to use in the operations and updated on the website. context of the training courses. Many chapters could be I believe that the results of the training program transition have As the via ferrata courses gain popularity, the been well communicated so far and I will not elaborate any used in both books with only minor tweaks to make them more contextually relevant. I believe that separating these need for variances for these operations will end. further on this specifically. I think the Training and Assessment In the meantime, we have left the option open Program (TAP) team is doing an excellent job on the transition. two manuals could also help clarify some technical scope of practice questions that often arise. for them to operate under the variance for one In parallel to the program transition, we have been run- additional season as they put new staff through I have also started conversations with a few videogra- ning the first stages of a complete program review. Using an the courses and existing staff undergo a prior phers (just ACMG members so far) to explore our options online team collaboration app (Ryver), we have been able learning assessment (PLA) process with the TAP for this aspect of the project. to engage with instructors from all aspects of the training program. program on many topics. We are currently building two separate polls, one for Instructor Training members and another for employers. This will help broaden Russian Mountain Guides our audience and ensure we are getting feedback from the We are continuing with the instructor training program started Association people most affected by the delivery and outcomes of the last year. There will be three separate sessions held along with training program. our travelling CPD program. We have decided to hold off on We recently completed two courses in the Elbrus region. The first was a ski train- The final step will take place in early fall in the form of developing new instructor training modules until the board of ing course and the second one was an apprentice facilitated, discipline-based sessions with key instructors directors determines the future direction of the training pro- ski guide exam. Both sessions had a total of 16 and the TAP team. gram. We will also be including a TAP program update on the evening between training days. students (not all the same students on both), and all students on the apprentice exam were Manuals The scheduled dates are: successful. The terrain in this region is excellent • Revelstoke June 21–22 for ski mountaineering and having the option of Top Rope Climbing Instructor Manual • Canmore October 26–27 using the high elevation of Mount Elbrus makes • Squamish November 26–27 it possible for us to run courses quite late in the The TRCI manual has gone through a few rounds of editing and season. is now at the publishers. I am currently scheduling a day in June Instructors working on the training course with a TRCI instructor to work on getting the necessary photos. Scope of Practice Revision included Craig McGee, myself and two Rus- ACMG Technical Manual The technical committee (TC) is well on its way to complet- sian instructors - Sergey Fursov and Alexander ing the scope of practice (SoP) revision. James Blench has taken (Sasha) Krasnov. On the exam, Craig and I were I had set aside significant time this winter to work on the techni- the lead on this project. New draft documents for all sections of joined by Darek Glowacki and Sergey Fursov. cal manual. The vast majority of this time was used assisting with the SoP have been created and are currently being commented Keith Reid will be running a climbing train- PRO PURCHASE PROGRAM the training program transition. We made some progress despite on by the TC on Ryver. The technical committee will meet on ing course in the Caucuses in mid-July, and a this significant and daunting surprise. June 27 in Canmore for a face-to-face discussion on some of the host of other courses are planned for 2019. To Apply Visit: dpsskis.com/pros Several years ago the ACMG hired different subject matter more challenging issues that have been raised. Some of the RMGA programs are now run (A DPS representative will contact you upon review) experts to write some chapters (six in total) for the new manual. Once this revision is complete, we will hire a professional entirely by RMGA instructors while on other Although the content was excellent, the writing styles and for- editor to help refine the language and to convert the SoP to a courses we still require a mix of Russian and IF- +1.801.413.1737 // [email protected] mats were so different that it was felt that they were unusable. technical document with referenced paragraphs. MGA instructors. In the next year, the IFMGA Over the course of the winter, Helen Rolfe and I worked on these plans on attending two RMGA courses. chapters to make them consistent in style and format. There are P: OSKAR ENANDER some other technical sections in various stages of completion at the moment. The Arête 8 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 9 The Arête News ACMG Partnership Program Update By Ken Bélanger

Salut / hello, The biggest news coming out of my court thus far in 2018 is the expanded MEC pro purchase discount for all active ACMG members. I had a number of inquiries re: buying gear for institutions or companies where members work. This is NOT per- mitted, read the guidelines here (sign-in required). Also, please review these pro purchase FAQs http:// www.acmg.ca/02member/partnernews/pro-purchaseFAQ.html We are still the ONLY group that has this level of discount. I believe 99% of members realise how distinct of a privilege this is and treat the program with the respect that it needs to remain viable for MEC. Unfortunately, there are some who haven’t. MEC’s systems and cashiers flag suspicious purchases, they are then looked at by MEC, and subsequently forwarded to the ACMG if applicable. MEC has already brought a few cases to us this year. Obviously, these incidents of misuse reflect poorly on our association and also threaten the program for all 1300+ ACMG members. Managing these requires resources that would be bet- ter spent on sourcing more partners, new pro purchases, or just ACMG members were thanked for volunteering at our Alberta running your association. Trails Day booth with new t-shirts. Pictured above left to right are Also, when in a store, or interacting via phone, it’s expected Bree Kullman (HG) and Sarah Hu (AHG & CGI 1) that you will act professionally, respectfully, and in appreciation for this great deal MEC offers us as a partner. As an ACMG Enough heavy stuff, time for some good news: member, you are representing your association. The new ACMG t-shirts avec le nouveau logo bilingue are here for only $20 + GST with free shipping! Thanks again to our valuable partnership with MEC, these polyester t-shirts are available to all active ACMG members for only $20 including taxes and shipping. Quantities are limited; once we’ve run out, that’ll be it for 2018. Men’s shirts are RED with the logo centred on the chest. Women’s are BLACK with the logo on the left sleeve. Ordering is via the ACMG member site under Purchase > ACMG Items for Sale. Remember that eTransfers (Interac) are preferred as they save your association thousands of dollars per year in credit card fees. Show y(our) colours as an ACMG member to help promote you and our association. This will translate to increased respect for your training, increased awareness of our association, and increased pay and work for everyone. If a company isn’t listed on the Pro Purchase page, then we don’t have anything set up with them. If you find an outdated form, please let me know. Merci et bon été.

ACMG Partnership Coordinator, Ski Guide and Hiking Guide New men's ACMG logoed t-shirt Ken Bélanger lives in Canmore, AB

The Arête 10 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 11 The Arête

THE FIRST SKI BOOT FOR TOURING THE FIRST TOURING BOOT FOR SKIING

ONE MOVE TO SWITCH

DYNAFIT.COM News ACMG Scholarship News By Derek Wilding

At last year’s AGM in Canmore, ACMG • Arc’teryx Equipment Award ($2000 equipment credit) members were awarded close to $20,000 • Arc’teryx Mentorship Award (funded training for apprentice in Training and Assessment Program guides) (TAP) course subsidies, funded training • Gougeon Scholarship ($500 TAP course subsidies) and mentorship, and equipment credit, • MEC Community Scholarship ($500 TAP course subsidies) through the various partner awards and • Robson Gmoser Mentorship Fund (mentorship funding for memorial funds. apprentice guides) This year MEC has stepped up with a new community focused scholarship geared towards mem- bers of the climbing instructor and hiking guide certifica- Note that this year’s Arc’teryx Mentorship Award has been tion programs. They are offering three scholarship of $500 earmarked for apprentice rock guides who are pursuing the each, increasing our total funding by a further $1500. Guide Training Ice course, with the training scheduled for If you’re an apprentice guide or instructor looking to early in 2019. continue your training or certification, login to the ACMG The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15, 2018 with website to preview and apply for one or more of the awards the exception of the Robson Gmoser Mentorship Fund, which that may be available to you, including the: has a September 30 deadline. • Brian Ebert Memorial Fund (funded training for apprentice Completed application forms can be emailed to the guides) ACMG Scholarship Committee at [email protected] • D’Arcy McRae Memorial Scholarship ($500 TAP course subsidy) • Arc’teryx Scholarship (TAP course subsidies $500, $1000, ACMG Scholarship Committee Chair, Rock Guide and CGI 3 $1500) Derek Wilding lives on Piers Island, BC

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The Arête 12 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 13 The Arête Spotlight on ACMG Members Jean-Philippe LeBlanc Wins Aventure Écotourisme Québec’s Prestigious Sylvie Marois Award

Considéré comme un leader dans son champ de pratique du “Face aux vents” set up one of the first non-profit organizations us- plein air, soit l'intervention par la nature et l'aventure, Jean- ing nature therapy and adventure to treat mental health issues. The Philippe directeur et fondateur de Face aux vents, a su mettre Sylvie Marois is the most prestigious award that a guide can receive sur pied l'un des premiers organismes sans but lucratif util- in Québec. isant la thérapie par la nature et l'aventure pour se consacrer For more information on the award: uniquement aux enjeux de santé mentale contribuant ainsi à http://aeq.aventure-ecotourisme.qc.ca/evenements/laureats l'avancement de ce type d'intervention par le plein air. For more information on Face aux vents: Croyant fermement en la cause derrière l'organisme, www.faceauxvents.org Jean-Philippe s'est démené corps et âme en ignorant la potentielle prétention que l'intervention par le plein air pouvait à elle seule " tout régler ". Guide expérimenté reconnu entre autres par l'Association Ca- nadienne des Guides de Montagne (ACMG), il s'est non seulement associé depuis les tous LIVE. débuts avec des professionnels et cliniques CLIMB. spécialisées en santé mentale (psychiatres, psychologues, psychoéducateurs, ergothéra- REPEAT. peutes, etc.), mais il s'est lui-même spécialisé ™ Ultralight par le biais d'un certificat universitaire en Bullet 16 Pack intervention psychosociale. C'est donc avec Vapor Helmet beaucoup de rigueur qu'il offre à chaque participant un encadrement selon les normes les plus élevées du milieu dans l'utilisation du plein air comme outil d'intervention psychosocial. Stimulant la réflexion sur la démocratisa- tion et l'accessibilité au plein air, il démontre par son initiative qu'un produit de tourisme d'aventure peut également rimer avec dével- oppement humain et impact social et envi- ronnemental. Aujourd'hui, grâce à lui et son équipe, des centaines de jeunes adultes aux prises avec des problèmes de santé mentale, dans plus de vingt-cinq projets réalisés en collaboration avec des cliniques, des hôpi- ASHIMA taux spécialisés, des CLSC et le milieu com- munautaire, ont pu, par le plein air, découvrir le meilleur d'eux-mêmes et d'elles-mêmes. MOVES Pour ses valeurs, ses convictions et son leadership à l'avancement du tour- isme d'aventure, nous sommes heureux de MOUNTAINS remettre le Prix Sylvie Marois à Jean-Philippe THE PRODIGY CREATING THE FUTURE. SEE HER STORY AT THENORTHFACE.COM/SHEMOVESMOUNTAINS. Leblanc. Ce pionnier de l'intégration et de l'accès humaniste au plein air pour une cli-

entèle souvent négligée est un modèle inspi- BD Athlete Hazel Findlay | Aiguille d’Argentière Jon Griffi th rant à suivre.

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E S S Guide Jean-Philippe who, through his organization A

The Arête 14 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 15 The Arête DATE: MAY 22, 2018 FILE: MT052218B_TNF_ACMG_ASHIMA_SUMMER_2018 S18rinadA.x7.5.indd 1 518 :1 P PUB: ACMG CREATIVE: L100027_TNF_MagAd_Time_Ashima ISSUE: SUMMER 2018 SIZE: SINGLE PAGE TRIM / Full Page 7.5 W x 9.5 H ART: GO / F1 PUB JOB # MT-052218B-ACMG APR: Approved! send to Ken [email protected] Spotlight on ACMG Members

the 300m of ice in the next gulley over. After the longest pause Beef Jerky and Waders we both smiled, knowing the day was a success. The cell phone read 3 pm after an hour of sideways The First One Day Link Up of The Theft and Gift Ice Climbs bushwhacking, headlamps were dug out of our packs Story by Eric Hughes. Photos by Brent Nixon and Eric Hughes and a new wave of nervous anticipation crept in. Our en- ergy levels were boosted by a surprise encounter with two friends who were rapping the route as we headed up the first . “Bit late ain’t it?”...laughter drowned out the “on belay” call. Once the crux pitches were dispatched, dark- ness fell and grinding out 80 m pitches to the top became the mission. While reversing the river crossing at night, with the two routes behind me I pondered how many shoulders I had stood on to reach our goal. The first ascensionist, the locals who had added bolts, and the encouragement Marc had shared with me to tackle the route, all combined to make something improbable into something plausible. Lillooet is rugged at its heart with nothing open past 9 pm. The warmth of the truck allowed hunger to creep in as satisfaction turned to disappointment upon driving past all the closed signs. After digging into the bowels of boxes left in the canopy, we were rewarded with Triscuits and beef jerky for dinner; a successful day served with a salty finish. I await the next coercive text message to see which harebrained scheme I’m roped into next time. Waders....vital ice climbing equipment for river crossings on the coast ACMG Rock Guide Eric Hughes lives in Squamish, BC and dismissed the impossible suggestion. Brent is a nerdy looking ACMG Apprentice Rock Guide Brent Nixon lives in Vancouver. Pharmacist with square glasses and a crooked smile but a quick glance at his forearms and the intensity in his eyes tell a differ- ent story. He is the sort of partner you save for special occasions. Exiting the truck at 6 am I wondered when the teaspoon of coercion ap- plied by Brent would run dry. With waders pulled Brent Nixon leading the mixed pitch of The Theft up to my armpits and power gels in my pockets A pool of light thrown back out of the ice created a blue visit to snatch the FA away from locals) turned away many suit- we headed across the river. aura in which the distinctive “thunk” of a Petzl Nomic being ors with each group finding missing ice sections, unconnected The strategy was to tackle rhythmically swung, was the only break in the silence, high features and enough spice to power a Thai curry. Unsuccessful the pitches that suited our up on the side of Bridge River Canyon. attempts and ice that never touched down again built its fearful strengths and complete the 45 km away from Lillooet—down the dirt road connect- reputation over 20 years. first climb methodically, ing the Terzaghi Dam to civilization—are two of the finest Youthful ambition mixed with skills beyond his years if we didn't have time or ice lines the West Coast offers. The rarely formed Gift and carried the late Marc Andre Leclerc up the 2nd ascent of The something didn't feel right infamous Theft lines grow slowly next to each other high Theft. His bold approach tackled the initial dagger head on we would walk away. By 1 above the road; guarded by a river, bushwhack and a repu- with gear placed so far below it became soloing with a rope pm we were on top after tation that took a fearless young mind to unlock. and screws on his harness. A few hours later the team of sending all the pitches on The Theft. The deluxe sand- The early season inversions caused anomalous amounts three stood on top. An hour of rappelling directly down the wich back at the base was of ice to appear in cracks, pillars and waves that had been cobra heads, dry overhangs and ice choked chimneys, led washed down with a warm missing since the early 90s. A reported ascent of the Gift back to the intimidating dagger. The curse had been bro- British tea, followed with a increased every coasties ticklist by one. ken and another tick was added to everyone’s list. Left: The Theft from below disappears into an ice choked chimney before reaching the crux above. silence to contemplate if we “Why don't we link The Theft and The Gift back to back” Right: Eric Hughes leading pitch one of The Gift. The Theft (named after a visiting American made a return were motivated to head up read Brent’s text. I almost choked on my night time cereal as I The Arête 16 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 17 The Arête Spotlight on ACMG Members The Sky's Way The Himalaya's First Via Ferrata By Marco Di Marcello

Left: Morning view from base at 5010 m, the orange dots show the via ferrata. Photo: Marco Di Marcello Right: Starting point of the via ferrata at 5200 m. Photo: Davide Peluzzi

The end of the via ferrata at 5380 m. Photo: Marco Di Marcello

“A group of Italians established a via ferrata on the dangerous sec- all those who work in the region of Himalaya. This promise tion of rock just below the Noisy Knob camp (5,000 m) on the deeply connected Davide and the Explora team to the Rolwaling Rolwaling side of the Tashi Laptsa”. Valley. He returned with the Explora team many times, having Kristoffer Erickson — American Alpine Journal, December 2017 the chance to meet Rolwaling resident Phurba Tenjing Sherpa, and establish a very good relationship with him and the entire valley population. Explora Nunaat International is an Italian organization focused Davide said, “We have tried our best to help the people and on research, exploration and humanitarian aid in remote loca- the valley for good cause with many humanitarian projects; espe- tions www.exploralimits.com. They made this project happen cially after the earthquake of 2015. The via ferrata was sponsored with facilitation by Phurba Tenzing Sherpa (a native from Rol- by Persia Costruzioni. I have to thank the owner, Renato Persia, waling Valley in the Gaurishankar area of the Everest region) and who believed in the project and provided us top quality materials his crew. Since 2011 the Explora team has pioneered substantial and tools for such a highly demanding situation.” projects in the Rolwaling Valley and are well known among the whole community. By October 2017 the first via ferrata in Himalaya had been established between 5200 m and 5400 m, on a dangerous and exposed rock wall, between the Trakarding Glacier and the over- Left: The team working on the wall in the first section at 5230 m Photo: Davide Peluzzi Everything started in 2011 when the Chairman of Explora Da- hanging Drolambau Glacier ice fall, in the Gaurishankar Con- vide Peluzzi was caught in a snow storm around 5200 m on his servation Area of the Everest region. The via ferrata is composed Right: The Drolambau Ice Fall threatening above. Photo: Davide Peluzzi way to Tashi Lapcha pass, from Rolwaling Valley to Khumbu of two sections; the first traverses a rock wall, passing a danger- Valley, crossing a steep and slippery passage known as Jaboo. It ous, unprotected step to reach an exposed ledge. From here, the sonal, and no one had ever done a permanent fixed route before, Village at 900 m, to the end of the Trakarding Glacier at 5000 was there that some of his young porters started to cry that they second section passes through a slippery gully to reach the top of so the team faced issues that no one ever had at that altitude. m, where they setup their base camp. From here they would could not proceed due to the weather and a bad feeling they had the rock wall. All the materials, and specific tools for the project, They had to drill 30–40 cm deep holes in the granite to secure reach the rock wall up to 5400 m daily. about the incoming hazards. Once back in Kathmandu, Davide had been brought over from Italy. the route to the wall, while dealing with cold batteries, continu- said “It was one of the worst days of my life. As a leader of the The Explora team worked on the project for a year, with high ous rock and ice fall hazards, and an extremely isolated spot for ACMG Assistant Hiking Guide Marco Di Marcello is a Canadian/ Expedition, I was responsible for them.” altitude, mountain conditions and harsh weather being constant communication and rescue. They had to get the job done in a Italian citizen from Abruzzo, Italy Since that day Davide promised himself to do as much as challenges while planning the logistics and figuring out the best fast and safe way due to these hazards, and they succeeded, com- possible for the porters and people of the Rolwaling Valley, and materials. All the fixed ropes on the biggest mountains are sea- pleting the project within a month. They hiked up from Jagat The Arête 18 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 19 The Arête Spotlight on ACMG Members

Left: Jobo Garu Expedition 2018—The Sky’s Way. Photo: Paolo Cocco Right: Renato Persia (Italy) sponsor of the via ferrata project, shaping some anchors. Photo: Davide Peluzzi

Top: Aaron Chance (new SG), Evan Stevens (MG examiner) and Alex Lawson (new MG) make the short boot up through the guides notch on an ACMG ski guide exam in Whistler, BC. Photo: Ruari Macfarlane Bottom left: Sylvia Forest (MG) and Alison Cardinal (ASG, HG) guiding the ACC woman’s traverse of the Drummond Glacier. Somehow Sylvia got the Wonder Woman cape and Alison got the blow-up doll! Photo: ACC participant

Google Earth view of the Trakarding Glacier with the rock wall on its left side. The red arrow marks the via ferrata leading to the Drolambau Glacier. The highest peak at the top left is . Photo: Marco Di Marcello

Photo: Marco Di Marcello. From left to right: Phurba Tenzing Sherpa, 30 Rolwaling native, mountain guide and world record holder for the most successful ascents of Mt. Everest at the youngest age, (10 times by the age of 27). Honor- ary Goodwill Ambassador of Nepal tourism in 2011. Davide Peluzzi, 50 Italian mountaineer, explorer and chairman of Explora Nunaat International. Explora team expedition leader for the past 15 years, leading research, exploration and humanitarian aid in extreme locations. Marco Di Marcello, 30 ACMG assistant hiking guide, dual Italian/Canadian citizenship, biologist, mountaineer, explorer and active member of the Explora team since 2011. Three times in Himalaya for research and exploration The Arête 20 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 21 The Arête Spotlight on ACMG Members

Crossing the Marsyangdi River with the shoulder of Annapurna 3 behind, during the Diploma in Mountain Medicine ACMG Honorary Member Bernie Schiesser (still going strong over 80) and Apprentice Ski Guide Randy Heppell lead a course, in Manang, Nepal. Photo: Josh Briggs group up to “The Dome” at the Campbell Icefields Chalet, BC. Photo: Elaine Powers

Sunset from the Columbia Icefield in Jasper National Park, AB. Nick Carroll on Mystery of a Lost History (5.12a) at Devil's Glen Provincial Park in Clearview, ON Photo: Greg Neil Photo: Karlo King The Arête 22 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 23 The Arête Features New Zealand Summer Guiding Story and Photos (where not indicated) By Alex Geary

Dan climbing out of a on the way up Mt Madeline. Mt Aspiring and the Colin Todd Hut. French Mountain Guide Nicolas Honneger guiding Yoko up the Summit Rocks on Aoraki/Mt Cook.

Editor’s Note - One of the joys of belonging to an internationally to climb Aoraki/Mt Cook or Mt Aspiring, none of the courses recognized guides association is having the opportunity to pack up or “Ascent Weeks” have a fixed location, and most are about sev- and move to other IFMGA countries for extended periods where en days long (including introductory mountaineering courses). you can guide in foreign mountain ranges and experience differ- This means you can go wherever you feel like each week on the ent cultures, with a fairly seamless transition. Not many professions South Island depending on weather and conditions (as long as allow this, so we should consider ourselves lucky. Here, Canadian you don’t blow your weekly heli budget). I therefore ended up Mountain Guide Alex Geary explains his experience guiding on the visiting all the major alpine climbing areas including Aoraki/Mt other side of the planet. Cook National Park, Westland National Park (Fox and Franz Josef ), Mt Aspiring National Park, The Remarkables, and The Darran Mountains (Fiordland National Park). Despite “You can see Australia on a bad day!” a client told me as we how it might sound, with a pre-trip briefing from a senior guide looked out across the Tasman Sea from the head of the Franz and a full-time client liaison to take care of logistics, it wasn’t Josef Glacier. It took me a few seconds to catch on… too daunting. I’d been wanting to return and explore the mountains in It’s quite complicated and expensive to get your own permits New Zealand since my first ski trip to the Tasman Glacier in and insurance in NZ, so almost all the guides work for one of the 2004. The Waddington Range is the only place I’ve been to in big companies. They’re always short of guides during the sum- Canada with the big relief and huge steep broken glaciers, com- mer, so there is little competition between companies or guides, parable in size to what you can find in NZ. Aoraki/Mt Cook and everyone is very friendly and supportive. This atmosphere National Park has 19 peaks over 3000m rising straight out of also seems to attract lots of easy-going foreign guides, some of the ocean, with Aoraki/Mt Cook being the highest in NZ at whom have moved there permanently to escape the pressures of 3,754m. places like the Alps. I based myself out of Wanaka (a town about the same size Working, climbing and hanging out with guides from Ro- as Revelstoke,BC) for five months while guiding for the interna- mania, Venezuela, , Czech Republic, Slovakia, Nepal, tionally renowned Adventure Consultants during their summer Italy, Germany, USA, Britain, Australia, and of course New 2017/2018 season. Working for them meant I didn’t need a car Zealand, was one of the highlights for me. Everyone brought and was paid for all my travel time. With the exception of trips experience from their own country, and it was really cool to Alex Geary climbing above Spaghetti Junction on Aoraki/Mt Cook. Photo: Cristina Pogacean The Arête 24 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 25 The Arête Features

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Hayley exiting the Fox Glacier to the Chancellor Hut WARMTH UP FRONT, see everyone solving problems slightly differently. For example, sonal gear inspected and documented before my first job) while guiding a couloir on Aoraki one day; I was pitching it out • Safety standards are a bit loose BREATHABILITY on bolted anchors, another guide was pitching it out on snow • I was going to have to do some long and gnarly approaches over anchors adjacent, another was simul-climbing with a Micro big, dangerous moraines with a ginormous pack (it was almost IN THE BACK. Traxion, and another passed us all using a tractor-pull. entirely heli access)

Things I thought about NZ that turned out to be TRUE: On a side note; after reading “Tucker Talk” in the last issue The Nano-Air® Light • The best cragging in NZ is at Arapiles of The Arête, I noticed that there seemed to be a higher percent- Hybrid Jacket • The glaciers are big, steep and broken age of female guides in NZ than Canada, and more women cranking harder than the men at the crags. A quick count on High output in low temperatures • You spend a LOT of time walking under huge seracs while guid- can be dangerous: You sweat, the NZMGA website showed 14% female Mountain Guides you stop, you freeze. The warm, ing Aoraki/Mt Cook stretchy and breathable Nano- in NZ, which is more than double what we have in Canada. I ® • Snow conditions are often amazing for alpine climbing Air Light Hybrid Jacket will wonder why this is… keep you at optimum operat- • I would get a lot of experience with snow anchors ing temperature with just the If you’re interested in working in NZ during the summer, right amount of wind and • The outhS Island has a great, relaxed vibe weather protection where their season starts late October and then tapers off by the end you need it. Airy waffl e knit dissipates heat when • There is lots of 1:1 guiding of March. They will help organize work permits for Canadians you’re going all out. Things I thought about NZ that turned out to be FALSE: (IFMGA, Specialty and Apprentice Guides) if you commit to • Upright mid-clip pickets with cables are commonly used; In fact, sticking around for at least a couple of months. Jumbo fi nds a good boulder and an even better I didn’t see one all summer (almost everyone uses MSR Coyotes) view on the way to bigger objectives from El Chaltén. Masazumi Sato © 2018 Patagonia, Inc. • All the alpine rock is Weet-Bix (chossy) ACMG Mountain Guide Alex Geary lives in Revelstoke, BC • There is less documentation than in Canada (I had all my per-

The Arête 26 Summer 2018 SummerPA_A_AL_P.indd 2018 1 27 18The 1:5 AArête Features

have slowly turned the conversation around and be advocating • Donations were also provided by several private companies such Skaha Bluffs Climbing History all the positives that came from his car farming venture. By the as Skaha Rock Adventures, Arc’teryx, Black Diamond, etc. Story by Russ Turner. Photos by Steve Shannon time we reached the 18th hole, he was on board with me and agreed that keeping the parking lot open for the coming season BC Parks followed along with great interest, as they had was a great idea! And so it would go, year after year. wanted to designate a new park for habitat protection of the By 2007, Hugh in- many species at risk in the formed us that he was put- south Okanagan region. ting Braesyde Farms up for BC Parks had no money sale and that we would have for land acquisition, but to find an alternate means they did have money for to access the Skaha Bluffs. infrastructure such as To buy us time to come roads, parking lots, out- up with a solution, The houses, etc. (to the tune Climbers Access Society of of $600,000). So, it was BC agreed to lease Hugh’s in 2009 that Skaha Bluffs parking lot for one season. Provincial Park officially Being that there were only opened with the intent a handful of local climbers of protecting this area for to come up with a plan, species at risk and securing we sought out the Moun- access for recreational use. tain Equipment Coop of It was the first time in BC’s Vancouver (MEC) to see history that a provincial what they would recom- Conservation of this was a long time in the making. park was created by this mend. We knew that a large means, potentially setting portion of land (known as an example to be used for Sublot 18) was slated for BC park creation into the Mountain Guide Peter Arbic climbing on the Fortress with scenic Skaha Lake behind. development, as well as future. being on the radar of The Skaha Bluffs’ visitor use Marc Bourdon asked me to write a historical piece about the climb- Before long Hugh had created (alongside his farming in- Land Conservancy of BC has risen dramatically over ing history in the Bluffs from my perspective (or to the best of my come) a tidy side business as a parking lot attendant. To com- (TLC) as a potential site for the years. In 1994, there short-term memory). The following article was given to Marc for memorate his new position in life, I aptly gave him a t-shirt habitat protection in the were an estimated 3,000 his new Skaha guide book to be released this spring. for Christmas that read “Car Farmer” (much to his chagrin). region. This property was annual user visits. When Although some climbers felt he didn’t have the right to charge slated for sale at $7 million, the Park opened in 2009, for parking (even though it was his private property), most in- which was out of our price there were an estimated In the early 1980s, Howie Richardson was the first climber formed climbers realized that it was a good deal, and this ar- range, so MEC agreed to 45,000 annual user visits to set foot in the Skaha Bluffs as we now know it. As a biolo- rangement continued for over a dozen years. pay Bill Turner (executive and by 2015, an estimated gist, he was originally drawn to these canyons for bird studies. director of TLC) and his 75,000 annual user visits. However as a climber, he also realized the stunning new route Most climbers don’t realize or remember that access staff’s wages for over a year, Overcrowding has become potential that these cliffs had to offer. Keeping this new find to into the Bluffs through the Braesyde Farm property was a to make this the TLC’s pri- the single most important himself and a few select friends, they went off busily putting up tentative one at best for many reasons over this time period. mary focus. concern for the future a number of the plum lines in the area into the late 1980s. Soon, Neighbouring landslide lawsuits, concerns over the volume As lead negotiator on of this Park. The heavy they were joined by a few other climbers from the Okanagan of traffic on a single lane road past private homes, liability the acquisition, Bill Turner ACMG Guide and local Russ Turner is all smiles at Fern Gully. demands recreational us- and Vancouver areas in the early 1990s and as their numbers insurance issues, agricultural land use issues, and incidents was able to convince the de- ers (climbers, hikers and grew, they realized the need to secure access to this area. with aggressive/defensive dog owners all combined to make this arrangement uncertain, year after year after year. veloper to drop the sale price of the land to $5.25 million. Funds mountain bikers) have put onto this area underline the fact that At the time, the majority of Skaha’s potential routes were For countless years Hugh Dunlop would take me aside (giv- for the purchase were provided by; The Nature Conservancy of we must all take responsibility to ensure it remains an important situated on Crown land, which could only be accessed by tres- Canada with support from the federal government ($2.3 mil- habitat for the many rare species that call this home. passing through private properties. Since Howie knew most of en that we were good friends), to let me know that he had had enough and was going to close the parking lot for good. Know- lion), BC’s Ministry of Environment ($1.25 million), and The While recreating at Skaha Bluffs PP, please remember: these land owners, they allowed him and his close friends to Land Conservancy of BC ($1.7 million). access the area, but by 1993 the numbers had swelled to 3,000 ing that this would directly and negatively impact my climbing • Pack it in, pack it out TLC’s partners in fundraising included: annual user visits. So, Howie approached these land owners to school business (Skaha Rock Adventures), he wanted to give me • No camping or fires see if any of them would allow climbers to park and access these ample notice so that I could find alternate work for the future. • MEC ($250,000) and its member donations (matched by MEC • Keep dogs on a leash at all times Being that I was away most winters ski guiding, Hugh and I up to $100,000) Crown lands. All of them said no except for Hugh Dunlop of Future generations of recreational users and the many crea- referred to my few weeks off each winter as our “golf season”. • The abitatH Conservation Trust Fund Braesyde Farms. Hugh initially envisioned just a few cars each tures that call this home appreciate it. Enjoy Responsibly! weekend, but once he realized the sheer volume of climbers The start to our season would typically find us on the first tee in • BC Trust for Public Lands coming to the area, and on the advice of a lawyer over liabil- early January, with Hugh informing me that the climbing area • B.C. Ministry of Transportation’s Environmental Enhancement ity concerns, he chose to recoup those expenses by charging a would close for the coming year. For the many reasons stated Fund ($200,000) ACMG Ski Guide and Apprentice Alpine Guide Russ Turner lives above, he wanted out. I’d allow him to continue his rant well nominal fee for parking privileges. • The atureN Trust of British Columbia in Penticton, BC into the first nine holes, but by the second nine holes I would The Arête 28 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 29 The Arête Features In our situation, the two ceiling smoke detectors on the detectors and CO detectors given the size of the building and FIRE!! Is your Backcountry Lodge Prepared? main floor weren’t working. Smoke rose to the ceiling and number of floors? ARE THEY WORKING?! By Julie Timmins slowly filled the room from top to bottom (as smoke does) • Have we BRIEFED our guests on an evacuation plan in case until the carbon monoxide detector at the bottom of the stairs of fire? Is the plan posted somewhere? Is there a muster point? A went off. Good thing it was working. second building where people can evacuate to? • Do we have the equipment necessary to evacuate from a sec- Many fire detectors in backcountry cabins get disabled be- ond or third floor, and does everyone know where to find this equipment? cause it is so annoying to have the alarm go off prematurely while cooking. The batteries may never go back in. • Are fire extinguishers flown out and tested annually as required?

I have been spending 1-3 weeks a year in backcountry huts It is the responsibility of all lodge operators to follow fires for over 25 years now, and very few of the lodges I have visited codes as outlined in this link: provided fire briefings. Apart from a few sauna incidents at var- https://www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/industry/ ious lodges, the only ones I can think of that have succumbed construction-industry/building-codes-standards/the-codes to human caused fires are Sentry Lodge and the Hilda Creek hostel. These seem like pretty good stats considering how many Given that incidents like this are rare, one might allow low lodges are out there. Is a briefing really necessary? A fire seems probability to govern their mindset. Although the risk is low, the so unlikely that it may be off our radar. consequences can be enormous! I strongly urge lodge owners, guides, custodians and guests to pay more attention to fire safety My intention here is to highlight the broader issue of fire and not let complacency become the norm. safety in backcountry lodges and fire response and not dwell on this one incident. My hope is to have every single operation look within themselves and ask: Julie Timmins is an inactive ACMG apprentice ski guide, living in Canmore, AB. • Are we following the provincial fire codes required of us? • Do we have the appropriate number of fire extinguishers, smoke

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It was a Thursday night, the second last night of our week- bottom of the stairs. Becky had given up on the extinguisher long backcountry ski trip. Feeling tired but lured by the last and came to help me as I folded the carpet (a long runner) in two chapters of a good suspense novel, I went upstairs to read. half to suffocate the flames that were feeding on it. This was This didn't last long before drowsiness overcame me, and I scary because as I folded the carpet, a tiny rush of air fanned guide fell asleep. the flames unfavorably. At the same time, I yelled “Door!!” and Becky spun to the door about two metres away where we

got the burning carpet out of the hut. C Sometime thereafter I awoke sluggishly to a beeping sound. It took a few seconds for me to register that it must be M inspired the smoke detector. I leapt out of bed and tore to the staircase While working on suppressing the fire I kept thinking Y K2 Wayback 106 “when do the flames get too big and the smoke too thick?” on the heels of another. We descended the stairs into thick CM Combining lightweight smoke. Adrenaline started pumping as the two of us saw the but we were making progress. When the fire was out we stood and freeride performance there trembling, but it was over. As the smoke and smell dis- MY to take your touring to fire; nowhere near any heat source like a wood stove or heater, new heights. but there it was! sipated, we tried to figure out what had happened. CY

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K All-Terrain Rocker There appeared to be several smaller flames and one main Here are some facts: Titanal Touring Technology fire burning about knee high. An unexpected fire, even a small A vertical post had been outfitted with electrical outlets one, is scary because of the potential for it to spread faster for charging. One of the items plugged in was a charger for ca.k2skis.com than can be dealt with. Becky went for the fire extinguisher an airbag. There were two identical airbags in the group, each and I went for couch cushions to smother the smaller flames. with its own charger. Rather than using a second charger, the Becky fought with the fire extinguisher — an old beast of a batteries for the second airbag were inserted into the charger thing covered in dust, and as it turned out, uncooperative. of the first. However, these batteries were not compatible with the charger which resulted in the unit overheating and catch- As I successfully quashed the smaller flames with couch ing fire. cushions I was aware of other group members gathering at the The Arête 30 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 31 The Arête Features

one seen this overflow? Did they not bother to look? Did they few minutes to fill out the “Guides Hut Inspection Report” and It's a Crappy Job, but Somebody Has to Do it! pretend not to see it, or acknowledge the mess but then just send it to the ACC office so that they are aware of any ongoing By Helen Sovdat walk away? problems. It doesn’t take long to do a quick inventory on the This issue brings up questions about professionalism, in- general condition of the hut. ACC maintenance depends on cluding respect for the environment, living conditions, and these reports to effectively maintain the huts. ourselves. It reflects how we relate to the outdoor community and how we live with each other in the mountains. All users The ACC supports the ACMG in so many ways – employ- are responsible, especially guides, who stay for free, and should ment, practicum opportunities, free hut stays, fund raising, ac- be watching out for the state of the huts. I am grateful for the cess. In return, let's do our part and make sure that our guests lovely huts that provide shelter for our groups and feel that we have a clean and safe place to stay on their adventures. sometimes neglect the huts and take advantage of bookings.

ACMG Mountain Guide Helen Sovdat lives in Canmore, AB PLEASE – let’s set an example for our guests, friends and other members. Even if you stay for just one night, make sure the chores are done. This means taking care of the necessities of hut living including water, wood, clean up, garbage, etc. The To find out more about the “Guides Hut Inspection Report” contact hut should be left better than you found it. When you are relax- the ACC Hut Maintenance/Custodian Coordinator Nicole Larson ing on the throne, take a moment to look down into the barrel at [email protected] – it is your duty to check the crapper!!! Change the barrel when it is 6" from the top, it is not a big deal when done on time. Poop is part of life!

Free stay at the ACC huts is a privilege, not a right. The ACC extends good will to us, so we can reciprocate in the simplest of ways, by making sure the huts we share are well kept. The ACC trusts that we will maintain a custodial stan- dard of care for the facilities. Along with daily chores, take a If only it were this pleasant. Image: www.todayifoundout.com

Yes, I'm talking about changing outhouse barrels (and more) become a true bio-hazard zone, especially once the spring at the huts. This April, I guided a temps got warmer… and everything melts. Bow-Yoho traverse and stayed at the Stanley Mitchel hut IT’S A for two nights. On my visit to the outhouse, I was shocked How did we change the barrels in the end? We first had to look down and see an over-full barrel with a frozen cone to gain access to the barrel room below. I mobilized my of poop extending up towards the toilet seat. The poopsicle people; and with help from another group, we dug down GOOD LIFE was huge! It was about 30-40 cm across, one metre high, and through the snow to the door of the outhouse barrel room. growing higher with every use. It was quite horrifying and After that, we inventoried the tools and got rubber gloves A typical Icebreaker merino disgusting to see that growing tower and realize that the barrel on. We were ready for action, but how to deal with the large station is about 40,000 acres and had not been changed for quite some time. The barrel in the frozen pile? I was thinking about using an ice-axe, but, after second stall was over-full as well, not as high, but just as ugly. supports about 15,000 merino some discussion, we decided it would be best to use some- sheep. So our sheep enjoy more We had two “steaming” barrels on our hands and something thing with more heft, like a wood axe. We commandeered had to be done. You might not want to hear the gory details, the hut’s wood axe and proceeded to chop the cone down than their fair share of personal but this is an important case history. like a tree. We chipped through 40cm of frozen human space. You’ll be reassured to know waste, but it was an awkward, horizontal chopping angle, that their growers are committed I lost sleep that night as I mulled over the outhouse op- and it took about 15 minutes to get through. Good thing it to strict animal welfare code. tions. Should I plead ignorance and pretend that I had not was frozen hard. Sheep dogs are included too. seen this vile, Matterhorn-esque pile? Was it even possible to change the barrels when they were so overly full? How nasty From what I saw at the Stanley Mitchell Hut, we have would that be? I concluded that the dreaded job had to be been negligent in covering our ACC hut duties. It was unac- done, and it was not a Ghost Buster situation. There was no ceptable on the part of the guides who had passed through one else to call. The huts do not have a permanent custodian, this spring and done nothing but contribute to the grow- so someone there had to do the dirty deed. I decided that we ing pile of poop. Several guided groups had passed through had to at least attempt to change the barrels, sooner rather before I did, and the barrels should have been changed. It than later. We all knew that the situation would get worse and made me angry and disappointed at the same time. Had no

The Arête 32 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 33 The Arête Features We cannot see the world without our filters. And we cannot group of people that make up our primary caregivers and those Active Listening and the Interpersonal Gap see another person’s filters unless we become curious about that that support them. They have in turn been shaped by their early person. family system and their experiences with the larger world – By Tracy Rekart No one is objective. Everyone’s filters are different. They are where they work, where they learn, what historical events were not right or wrong, they simply are. taking place in their life, where they grew up, and the implicit Editor's Note: Tracy Rekart has been running CPDs for the ACMG The leader in our definition is a person who shares their For example, Jesse has a method of organizing where all and explicit expectations of the communities they belong to. on professionalism, conflict resolution and difficult conversations. opinion, perspective, and insights to help move a task along. tasks are written down and crossed of the list as completed. She This shaping forms the lens through which we interpret the She has written several articles that may be of interest to our mem- This means that when you share your opinion at a meeting, you is often seen working at her desk. Her conversations with others world. These initial experiences define what we think possible, bers, such as this one on active listening and the interpersonal gap. are being a leader. There is nothing more to it. Yet, there are are short, direct, and task-focused. This helps her manage time what action we can take, and how we take it. Because of our Learn more at www.mccarthyconsulting.net ways to do it effectively. Active listening is an essential part of and accomplish her tasks. filters, we all have our particular ways of being in the world. the foundational skillset for influential leaders who want weave Penelope has a list as well. During her day, she prefers open- strong cultures. ended conversations with other people. She learns about them Interpersonal Gap Leadership and how they work. Her conversations are inquisitive and can be lengthy. People feel they can open-up around her. Her tasks Throughout much of our day, our filters are bumping up against Listening is the cornerstone skill of an influential leader. We are Listening – Actively for the day regularly get reworked and reorganized depending the filters of others. This can lead to snap judgments and mis- rarely explicitly taught HOW to listen. We may be lucky and on what she discovers while talking with others. conceptions about a person’s intentions. This is called the inter- learn effective methods from our family system, or by emulat- Our ears are always hearing. Hearing is the act of receiving and personal gap. ing a skilled mentor. But often, we are left to figure out how to perceiving sound waves or vibrations. Listening is the act of After reading these, I imagine you had an opinion about effectively listen through trial and error. Some people learn it hearing and consciously applying attention and effort to inter- which person’s method is more effective than the other. This is a The interpersonal gap is always at play in every relationship. and others don’t. Our language and practice of listening is not pret what you are hearing. direct result of your filters. It happens when one person’s intention does not match the im- common or dependable. This erodes trust. Most of us listen to respond, not to understand. We do this Filters are created throughout our life. We push our inten- pact he or she is trying/hoping to have on another. If there are many people in the room, the interpersonal gap is happening To build strong and resilient cultures, we must explicitly because this is what we have been unconsciously trained to prac- tion and absorb impact through these filters. These filters make with all of them. teach and practice how to listen. tice. Responding gets rewarded in our culture. up our belief systems and mental models. They are shaped by the systems we live within. When the impact does not match the intention, rifts occur Leadership is a process of social influence where one person To respond appropriately, considerately, and collaboratively, that impede us from socially influencing others, accomplishing enlists the aid and support of others in the accomplishment of we need to listen actively. It is the intention, effort, and atten- Our initial shaping happens in our family system – the a common task. This definition comes from Martin Chemers’ tion that creates the active part of active listening. book An Integrative Theory of Leadership. In this definition, there is no mention of position or rank. Anyone can be a leader in any Filters – The Way we see the World organization, family system, or group. When we hear the word leader, our thoughts have been When we are in conversation with another person we bring dif- shaped to envision someone in charge of others or people mak- ferent backgrounds and viewpoints to a common issue. These ing decisions in the spotlight. viewpoints make up the filters through which we see the world.

The Arête 34 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 35 The Arête Features tasks, and creating a trusting culture. To become an influential ing. Parroting is often used to repeat instructions that are vital leader – a culture shaper, we must believe that the interper- to know verbatim or with small children. “You said, respond sonal gap is happening far more than we know or desire to slowly.” Or “Yes, I see the train too.” acknowledge. To check someone’s perception you share what you think Jesse wants people to complete tasks in a timely manner. their intention is. “I think you are trying to help me under- She feels this will solve 99% of the organizations and even the stand how to listen, so I can be a more effective leader. Did I world’s problems. get that?” Penelope values people being heard and included. She feels You can also ask to be actively listened to. This is practicing this will solve 99% of the organizations and even the world’s curiosity and is an advanced step toward becoming an influen- problems. tial leader and culture shaper. “Can you play back what you When Jesse and Penelope get together to discuss a task, the thought I said? I want to make sure I am clear.” What you hear interpersonal gap is at play. will help you understand the other person’s filters as you learn what data points they took away. As influence is not a single act or event, but a web of con- The First Step nection, if we are not aware that what we are seeing or build- We are meaning making machines. Chris Argyris created a ing is not the full story, our leadership may be ineffective and model called the Ladder of Inference. A common, automatic misplaced. Leading to the erosion of trust which undermines practice people reflexively use when trying to make sense of the strong and resilient culture we are trying to build. We want something. you to be able to take effective action and build strong cul- tures. Start by actively listening. A person makes a statement or observation. We select the part of what they say that triggers or has meaning to us. We then interpret what we think they were driving at with the part Master Somatic Coach Tracy Rekart has run the Difficult Con- we selected. We make meaning of what they said through our versations CPD for the ACMG, and lives in Seattle, Washington. filters. Then, draw conclusions, create beliefs, and take action. This happens in a fraction of a second. It is hard wired into our system. To interrupt this reflexive loop is uncomfortable. It means Ropework training above Ngawal, Nepal with the Annapurna massif behind, during the Diploma in Mountain Medicine course. that we may not know as much as we suspected. We may have Photo: Josh Briggs to admit there are other ways of getting things done. Or alter- nate systems of belief that have value. We may even feel physi- cally unsafe or uncomfortable. These tools tell the story The Switch is a state-of-the-art Knowing the loop is present, knowing we have filters that of torquing, hooking and leashless tool for technical climbing in any terrain, inspiring confidence with hard won placements. are different than others, and opening our listening is not easy, EVERY its stability on marginal placements. but if we take the following steps, it becomes more attainable. Nick Bullock has trusted This selection of routes gives you an them with his life. idea of their journey... The Way Forward MARK 1st British ascent 2nd ascent of Man Yoga, Centurion, Carn 1. First, listen without reacting. Not reacting may take time. I sug- (6th overall) of Astroturf, Lake Stanley Headwall, Dearg Buttress, Slovak Direct on Willoughby, Vermont. Canada. (M8) Ben Nevis, gest meditation as a tool to interrupt your automatic responses. South Face of USA. (WI 6) Victoria’s Secret, Scotland. (VIII/8) See this post to learn how. Denali. (Alaska 6 Omega, Cannon Cliff, Stanley Headwall, West Central 5.9 100°, 9,000ft) NH, USA. (WI 5+) Canada. (M7++) Gully, Beinn Eighe, 2. The second step is to slow down the conversation. This helps IS 1st ascent of East Diedre, Cathedral Rocketman, Scotland. (VII/8) you understand what is important. face of Hunku Ledge. NH. Patterson, Alberta, Tournier Spur, (6100m), Nepal. (TD) USA. (M7) Canada. (M7+ WI 5+) Midi North • To do this you paraphrase. “What I heard you say was… to 2nd ascent of the 2nd ascent of 1st ascent of Face, , House/Anderson, Mort, Lochnagar, The Cure, Craig France. (TD) slow down, I repeat back to you what you said to make sure I Mt Alberta North Scotland. IX/9 an Dubh Loch, Bouchard into the LIKE Face. (WI5+ M8 Scotland. (VIII/8) Boivin-Vallençant, understood. Did I get that?” R/X, 1000m) 1st ascent of Cold Revenge, Slime Wall, 1st ascent of Grand Pilier • You can also paraphrase when you start to lose track of where 1st winter ascent Buachaille Etive Mor, Slenderhead, Stob d’Angle, France/ they began or what they are saying. of The Great Scotland. (IX/8) Coire nan Lochan, Italy. (TD+/ED1) Corner, Llech Ddu, Scotland. (VIII/8) Survive bear Wales. (VIII/8) 1st ascent of Never • You interrupt them, “Hold on, can I make sure I understand A More, Lochnagar. 1st ascent of attack on Mt 1st winter ascent Scotland. (X/10) Crème de Violette, Wilson, Canada… what you are saying? This is a lot and I want to be sure I get of Still in Saigon, ungradeable! The Maul, Wedge Beinn Eighe. it.” Cathedral Ledge, Scotland. (IX/9) New Hampshire Peak, Alberta, 3. The third step is to listen. Then repeat steps one and two. (NH), USA. (WI scary) Canada. (M7) BATTLE Remission Direct, 4. Lastly, you can respond once the person replies, “Yes, that is Cathedral Ledge, NH, USA. (WI what I mean.” Then respond slowly. Even scarier). climb now Sarah Millson spots Kyle Thompson on Ripple (V5) at The work later A few other tools are sharing your perception and parrot- SCAR Niagara Glen, ON. Photo: Karlo King

The Arête 36 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 37 The Arête Features Guide Meetings Joining the ACMG is the best way to stay in the loop as mem- Maximizing the Practicum/Mentor Experience bers can join the Informalex and get emails about practicum If the practicum student feels experienced enough, they may By Shaun King opportunities. The climbing gym instructor or hiking programs want to chair the meetings with feedback from the mentor. This are likely the easiest ways in. is an excellent way to get into the driver’s seat with low commit- Guide training courses are indispensable for learning technique 2. Decision Input – the mentor asks what the practicum would do ment and zero consequence of having any negative effect on the and application, but practicums provide real world learning in various situations day (as a poor decision might have in the field). It is also a great In Summary with real guests that really need to be guided. Observing how 3. Directed Leading – the practicum is out front with close direc- venue to ask questions, get clarification and bounce ideas and a seasoned guide makes decisions operationally and having an tion from the mentor concerns off each other. Getting accepted into the climbing and skiing programs is be- opportunity to participate in the process is important for any- 4. Self Directed Leading – the practicum is making decisions more Ideally there should be a specific section in the meeting coming more competitive every year. Now that the ACMG has one, whether they are just entering the guide stream or well independently with the mentor stepping in only when necessary form to outline the roles, responsibilities and expectations of taken over the training and assessment programs, there is talk into it. While opportunities for practicums seem more plenti- the practicum student and mentor (with respect to mentorship). of increasing the required experience resume. Having a solid ful now than they used to be, ensure that you are making the Early in the process, a practicum student may not feel This documentation should be signed off by both parties to for- skills resume in a variety of terrain and conditions is the most most of the experience. This is important for both students comfortable or experienced enough to make decisions, and malize the process. important ingredient for acceptance into, and success on, guide and mentors. The benefits to the student are obvious, but the so putting them in that position may be counterproductive training courses and exams (see Beyond the List, vol. 47, p. 31 mentor will also benefit in a number of ways: for everyone. Observation is the most useful tool at this stage. of The Arête). In conjunction with this personal experience, a At the other end of the spectrum, a student who has lots of Feedback number of practicum days will complete the picture. However getting the days in is only a part of the equation, making the • Developing a relationship with practicum students increases the mileage and many practicums under their belt will stagnate if The mentor and practicum student should find time every day best of those days is up to you. pool of apprentice guides (once certified) available to work for limited to just observing. They require opportunities to lead to discuss how things went operationally and provide an op- the mentor that are known and trusted and make decisions in order to flourish. portunity for the student to ask questions about the mentor’s • Providing a positive experience for the student will encourage decisions and get feedback on their own performance and deci- ACMG Mountain Guide and Arête Editor Shaun King lives in them to work harder for the mentor, easing their workload sion making. Never leave the trip with unanswered questions. Canmore, AB • The student may be more attuned to new techniques, equip- Pre-trip Discussion ment or best practices and can pass this info on to the mentor To ensure that both student and mentor get the best value from • Mentoring counts as continuing professional development days the practicum there should be a pre-trip conversation where Where to Find Practicum Opportunities • Giving back to the membership is good karma and payback the student can express their experience, comfort levels with Candidates can contact any operation that interests them to ap- for opportunities the mentor received when they were students responsibility and decision making, and goals and expectations ply for a practicum position, although they will likely have bet- for the week (or in general). The mentor should also state their ter success where they already know someone in the operation. expectations and the sort of opportunities and responsibilities The Difference Between Skiing/Hiking and they are comfortable providing to the student. Identify where Climbing the student is in the stages of mastery outlined above.

DIA NA N M Practicum opportunities look different for skiing/hiking and CA O F U O N T climbing. While skiing or hiking, it is easier for a mentor to LAT 47.27410° N LONG 120.5696° W N A O I

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S put a practicum student out front to lead. This is also possible In my own practicum opportunities as a student I noticed A a during a climbing approach (hiking on the ground or during that there was a large difference in the amount of responsibility cmg.ca glacier travel) but difficult during technical climbing. A practi- that various mentors were comfortable providing me. More Proud Partner cum student may be tied into the rope with a guest or two newly certified guides with less mileage seemed more reluctant while the mentor leads, but perhaps the best learning comes to give up any amount of control over the group, whereas more from having the practicum lead a friend or another practicum experienced guides felt more capable of maintaining control student on a second rope. This allows the student to lead their while still putting me out front. Comfort levels in the fol- rope while observing and mimicking techniques employed by lowing areas will all determine the mentor’s ability to provide the mentor. This can work quite well in transitional terrain more or fewer leading opportunities for the practicum student: where bouncing back and forth between 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th class terrain may be encountered. • The student’s experience, abilities and decision-making skills • Conditions (weather, snowpack) • The mentor’s knowledge of the terrain and various options Stages of Mastery • The mentor’s knowledge of, and trust in the student Practicum students will graduate through stages on a con- tinuum depending on their experience in the terrain and their A key responsibility of the mentor is to communicate to Our footwear is built to take you amazing places. Every component experience on previous practicums. Understanding where a the guests, the importance and boundaries of the student’s student lies on the continuum helps them to know their needs is designed to work together, starting with our O FIT Insole™, to role and get permission for their participation. The mentor deliver an unmatched fit, feel and performance for wherever the and convey them to a mentor. I have identified four different should ensure that the student’s leads will not adversely affect trail may lead. ObozFootwear.com stages of mastery here: the safety or enjoyment of the guests. 1. Observation – watching the mentor make decisions and work terrain and people

The Arête 38 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 39 The Arête Gear Reviews Performance does not constitute a safety concern because of the revert to trans- Pieps Micro Avalanche Beacon Review mit if I were buried, but it is disconcerting nonetheless. The Black My initial plan was to use this beacon mainly for ice climbing, but Diamond rep said he had not heard of this issue with other beacons By Shaun King with the light weight and compact design I ended up using it al- and would have the engineers start an investigation, but it is good most exclusively over the winter. While teaching avalanche courses to hear that my unit seemed anomalous. I was able to compare its performance to other beacons being used by the students. For single beacon searches it was fast and easy. During the signal search, the unit vibrates upon initial detection of a signal, allowing you to focus on visual clues during the early search. Five display arrows and large numbers with an illuminated background made it very easy to read in all lighting conditions. The processor provided readings in real time and allowed me to move quickly with the inputs. In fine search the arrows disappeared at a range of two metres and bracketing was straightforward. Individual stickman icons on the screen indicate whether the unit is detecting one, two or three signals. An additional icon indi- cates when detecting four or more signals. Within a 5 m radius you Image: www.pieps.com can mark a signal which puts a box around one of the stickmen to indicate that it has been marked. In multiple search mode the mark Stats function allowed me to reliably find all the beacons without having • Searching Antennas: 3 marks get dropped; however, the buried beacons were usually all Images: www.pieps.com the same (BCA Tracker 2s). The Micro was easily able to switch • Maximum range: 50 m There are three different group check function modes; regu- between buried units without much signal lock which made strip • Search strip width: 50 m Background lar, extended (for older analogue beacons), and pro (which can searches easier. • Weight with batteries: 150 g In the quest for lightweight, compact ice climbing avy gear, I alternate between send and receive by tilting the unit). You can The group check function worked predictably. You just need to • Dimensions (LxWxH) 106 x 74 x 20 mm was naturally drawn to the new Pieps Micro. Compared to my enable or disable the various modes via the Pieps mobile app. keep the mark function button depressed or press it again before • Battery lifetime: 200 min. (Alkaline); 350 min. (Lithium) already light and svelte BCA Tracker 3, the Micro was 50g less The revert to send function is another feature that has an- the three second time-out. I found the button required enough • Temp. range: -20C to +45C pressure to make my thumb sore if waiting for a large group to cy- (including batteries), about 1 cm shorter, and a bit narrower in noyed me on other beacons. Having this feature as automatic • Additional Functions: Self Check, Auto-Antenna-Switch, Auto- cle through. I personally didn’t bother with the “pro-mode” which profile. Add to that a revolutionary sensor technology, auto an- after a certain time period seems ridiculous to me and is sure Search-to-Send, iProbe Support, Sensor Technology, Vibration, tenna switch, and many other novelty features and my curiosity to confuse rescuers in the heat of the moment. I usually tell seems like a neat feature, but you would have to keep your thumb Bluetooth updates on the mark button for even longer then. was piqued. novices to disable this feature if they can. The thing I like about • Price at Valhalla Pure: $419 (not yet available at MEC) the Micro is that the auto revert only happens after 60 seconds Carrying Functionality of complete motionlessness. The unit will give auditory and vi- Pros One of the things that has always bugged me about transceivers brational warnings before auto reverting (in case it was left on The Micro comes with a well engineered harness that allows the • Light and compact; only needs one battery beacon to snap in and out of a plastic holder which requires enough is the send/receive switch. You want something that is easy to do a pack for example) and will continue to whine while in send • Slick, hands free switch to search mode mode (like an emergency service vehicle) until the flag button is force to prevent accidental discharge (in the event of an avalanche) one handed without taking your gloves off (unlike most units • Always transmits on strongest antenna orientation currently on the market). You also want a switch that is easy to depressed and held. The time lag for auto revert can be changed but seems easy to do with gloves on and requires no manipulation • Bluetooth updates are a snap put back into send mode (in the event of a secondary slide while to 90 or 120 seconds, but it cannot be disabled. of finicky buckles. A built in elastic leash can be girth hitched to searching) but won’t be switched over by accident, like the BCA Another impressive feature with this transceiver is the intel- the unit, so it stays attached to the harness but can easily be held Cons ligent transmitter, which detects when the transmitting antenna at arms length for searching. There is no plastic attachment clip to Tracker 2. It seems an impossible ask of a switch; but what if • Battery display in thirds, not percentage there was no switch? Well there isn’t on the Pieps Micro. Pull may be compromised by electrical interference (e.g. from a mo- break. • I experienced an auto revert issue the unit out of its harness or your pocket and a sensor tells it to bile phone) and switches to another antenna for transmitting Also supplied with the unit is a hand leash and a microfiber bag go into search mode. “Say what?!? OK but then you put it back the maximum range to searching beacons. for storage in a “securely closeable clothing pocket”. Personally, I Conclusion into your pocket for probing and it reverts right?” Nope. It is Somehow Pieps was able to get away with a single AA bat- hate wearing a chest harness, so I went for the pocket option. The now locked on search even when the sensor is covered. “OK but tery to power this beacon, which plays a significant role in de- leash had no clip to attach to a belt loop and would not stretch to Generally, I was very impressed with this beacon. Mainly because then you get buried and you’re screwed right?” Nope. After one creasing the weight. They advertise that an alkaline battery will allow extension from an attachment point anyway, so I replaced of the size and weight, but I loved the simplicity of all the “smart” minute of being motionless it assumes you are buried and reverts last 200 hours, and a lithium is good for 350! it with the bungy leash from my BCA Tracker 3. I personally had functions and the Bluetooth capabilities. It seemed basic enough no need for the microfiber bag, but it may be useful to engage the for a novice but functional enough for a pro. I have always mar- to send. “Are you kidding me? This thing is smart!” One cool thing about modern beacons in general is that the proximity sensor as I have read that this may be an issue when velled at how much technology goes into a smart phone and how When you first turn it on, the unit does an extensive self internal software is upgradeable. With my Mammut Pulse I had wearing baggy pants. I was not able to recreate the problem in primitive radios and transceivers are in comparison. I think the check before counting down from three and going into search to (sometimes pay to) have a dealer perform the upgrade. With simple tests with baggy pants pockets myself; even while holding Pieps Micro has paved the way for the future of beacon technology. mode. If you want to perform a group check function, just push my BCA Tracker 3 I could do the upgrades at home, but I had the pocket as open as it would go and slowly sliding the beacon in, and hold the flag button (the only button) before the countdown to download the software and plug the unit into my computer. ends (it’s much faster than the check function on my Mammut I was not able to trick it into staying in search mode. With the Pieps Micro I simply downloaded a free app to my ACMG Mountain Guide and Arête Editor Shaun King lives in Can- Pulse). Once you put the beacon into the harness or a pocket, it One issue I did experience on three occasions over the course phone in order to Bluetooth the updates and change other set- more, AB vibrates ten times to let you know it is sending (along with the tings like group check functions, auto revert times, battery types of the winter was having the transceiver switch itself over to receive standard flashing LED indicator). and get a full diagnostic. Pretty sweet. mode while in my pocket for no apparent reason. I realize that this The Arête 40 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 41 The Arête Gear Reviews I am a bit of a gear geek, and usually, I get all techy on num- 2019 G3 Alpinist Glide Skin Review bers and technology. The fact is I don’t know what kind of magic wizardry G3 wove into their new skins, but it worked! The new 70% Nylon, 30% Mohair, 100% Awesome Scala tip performed as advertised and really did prevent snow from Story and Photo by Craig McGee working under the skin. The mix of 70% nylon and 30% mohair attained that perfect balance of durability and glide. Usually, on slight downhills, I would pass the rest of the group—with the skins still on! The new glue stuck the skin to the ski but came off with no leftover residue and was easy to use. Remember, these were the worst skinning conditions of my life! If I had any complaints, it might be that the skins are slightly bulkier than their equal Euro counterparts, but at literally $100 cheaper (30% less), it is hardly anything to really “complain” about, and likely they will be a bit more durable because of this! Ken: thanks for giving me a chance to try these skins, and more importantly, thanks for not asking for them back!! To be honest, I LOVE THEM! PS: if you need anyone to test some of those spiffy, lightweight G3 Zed bindings, please let me know—I lusted after Marc’s pair the whole trip.

ACMG Mountain Guide Craig McGee lives in Banff, AB

Note from Ken, the ACMG Partnership Coordinator: We will be once again offering the G3-ACMG Early Bird special discount pricing this fall on G3 products. Watch for details in an eBlast in late summer!

First, I have to say I was skeptical. Although I had used G3 Day two: another test day, but minimal skinning so the skins off and on since the first model came out almost 20 G3s couldn’t fail… years ago, I had given them a miss lately after experienc- Day three: finally, a real test. A full tour with a stupid ing several reliability issues—often deep in the wilderness! amount of distance, an absurd lack of oxygen and just a few I was not afraid of telling people that I wasn’t too fond of G3 centimetres of new powder over a rapidly melting crust— skins, and instead had switched to a delightful Euro brand this should get interesting! But it never did. The people that was light, stuck like snot, and glided like silk through around me were epic-ing, and I mean full-on skin warfare! the mountains. First, the US skins balled up. Then, the Euros took an un- Ken Bélanger (ACMG Partnership Coordinator) had been fathomable double loss, and no one could recover. We are given some new 2019 G3 skins for testing, and in some bizarre talking about some of the worst skin conditions you could slip of his better judgment, he asked if I would like to test them fathom; 5 cm of melting powder on top of water, on top of out on an upcoming month-long trip to Russia. Maybe he schlopp. Skin wax, tricks, prayers; nothing worked… except didn’t know the depth of my disdain for G3 skins? Or perhaps my G3 Alpinist Glide skins. Could it be true? Nooooooooo! he hoped that I would stop obnoxiously talking about my bias Beginner’s luck I said. against them since the company was such a valued supporter The first week: not an issue. Not only not an issue; every- and partner of the ACMG? Either way, I was not only doubtful, one else had issues—many of them—but the G3s seemed but also reluctant to take them as I had limited space in my lug- to be performing very well. What was everyone else’s prob- gage and I knew I would dislike them anyway! lem? These G3 skins appeared to be breaking the laws of I have to say on the first morning of the inaugural deploy- skins. They seemed to find that perfect balance of sticking ment I found myself quite smitten with the look of the skins— to the ski, but still easy to use. Skins that never balled up, beautiful baby blue with a techy white Scala tip. They were but somehow glided through the snow like an undetected pretty sexy, and the workmanship of G3 products does have to serpent in the grass… be appreciated! I was still very doubtful, so I also brought along The entire trip: well, it took every morsel of energy to say my trusty Euro brand skins as back-ups. I had a feeling I would it, but the G3 Alpinist Glide skins rocked! They performed ab- need to swap them out with the Canuck skins sooner than later; solutely flawlessly in some of the most consistently challenging however, the test conditions must have been favourable as the skinning conditions I have ever witnessed; water, mud, desert Canucks stayed out all day; and it killed me to say it, but they sand, crust, ice, powder. Most of these came together in a single seemed pretty good. “Lucky” I told myself! ascent—and no issues! The Arête 42 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 43 The Arête Gear Reviews Black Diamond ATC Pilot Review By Shaun King

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AMBASSADOR & ACMG GUIDE SARAH HUENIKEN

JOHN PRICE LINZHOU TAIHANG CANYON, CHINA Sign up for exclusive Outdoor Research Pro Deals at vip.outdoorresearch.com Deals at Pro Research Outdoor exclusive Sign up for for product with exceptional the journey improving to committed are We discounts eligible for guides are ed ACMG Certifi the guiding community. Research the Outdoor gear through line of award-winning on our entire Program. Pro Image: www.blackdiamondequipment.com Overview cated to begin with. BD didn’t create any inherent design prob- Assisted breaking belay devices are nothing new. The Petzl Gri- lems, so it didn’t need to find complicated, expensive and heavy gri, Trango Cinch, Mammut Smart, Edelrid Megajul and others solutions to fix them. have been around a while, so BD is the new kid on the block (pun intended) here. BD doesn’t take their R&D lightly though Action so perhaps they were waiting to develop the perfect combination Taking rope in for a top roper is exactly what you would expect of form and function... Enter the ATC Pilot. from any tube device. Feeding rope out to a leader is the same as Functionality for a regular ATC and can be done quite quickly if you keep the ropes loose around the device. If the bight around the This is a single rope strand device meant for single pitch belay- closes and it locks inadvertently, simply slide your break hand ing of a climber on lead or top rope. It is not built for rappelling. thumb up to the curved lip to keep it open while your other So, in my mind it is mainly competing in a category against hand feeds rope. This hand motion is easier than with the Edel- the Petzl Grigri, Trango Cinch/Vergo, and Revo. rid Jul 2 or Megajul which require the thumb to be placed inside The big difference is that where the other guys went high tech a loop created by the leash. to build a better mouse trap, BD took it in the other direction Holding a climber fall happens naturally when feeding to keep things simple. This thing feels, feeds and works pretty out the rope in regular tube fashion as the camming action much like any tube style out there with the ad- grabs the rope in an instant. If hooking the thumb under dition of what Black Diamond calls “enhanced braking.” The the lip to feed rope, there seems to be little risk of main- ridiculously simple engineering has enabled BD to create an as- taining the device in the open position during a climber fall sisted braking device at a fraction of the price and weight of the with the speed that the rope would run through the device “mouse trap” builders. and cam it closed, however I have not tested this theory by The simplicity factor also means that it is easy to teach to trying to hold it open during a climber fall. beginners, or to anyone who is already used to any tube style Lowering is achieved by simply tilting the unit back towards device. There are no moving parts, so setup is simple. If you yourself—very intuitive. I actually prefer this device over my set it up backwards, then you are just reduced to a regular tube Edelrid Megajul for lowering, as the plastic shell prevents the style device—no one’s gonna die. It seems to me like some other dirty rope from coming in contact with your guide hand and manufacturers have gone to a lot of effort to make their devices conducts no heat from friction. idiot proof to compensate for devices that were overly compli-

The Arête 44 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 45 The Arête Gear Reviews Member Updates My only criticism is that the double plastic fins that clip into Stats the carabiner are a bit bulky and awkward. It would be nice to see • Rope diameters: 8.7 – 10.5mm Diapers and Vows a conventional thin wire leash at the base. • Weight: 92 g By Lilla Molnar Pros • Price: $52 at MEC There was a flurry of • Light weight activity with Diapers • Low price ACMG Mountain Guide and Arête Editor Shaun King lives in Can- and Vows to ring in • Simple design more, AB spring! • Easy to teach Simon Thomson (SG) Cons and his partner had a EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITIES baby boy on March • Some slippage occurs with heavier loads / skinnier ropes in the 12th. They had a home birth at a locked position Heli Ski Guides Wanted for 2018-2019 friend’s place in Squamish, BC. Their • Bulky compared to the Megajul / Jul 2 Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time heli ski guides for the 2018-2019 winter season. new son Mika Wolf Goodman Thom- Conclusion/Overall Wage: Starting @ $300 for fully certified guides son, weighed in at 9.7 lbs. Location: Revelstoke, BC Eric Ostopkevich (MG) and Nancy This has become my go to belay device for gym climbing and Description: Certified and experienced mountain or ski guides needed for the Morin were married on May 19th in single pitch cragging. I prefer its simplicity and light weight to winter season. Guides are responsible to provide a fun and efficient heli ski product Calgary, AB. Their sweet little daughter my Grigri. If I was purchasing a fleet of belay devices to use in an in a wilderness environment. This role will focus on the highest degree of safety Ivy as flower girl, may have stolen the instructional setting this would be the unit, in my opinion. It’s and professionalism. show! a comparatively inexpensive device that still provides the safety Experience: At least three years of experience as a lead ski guide. margin of assisted braking for beginners. Because it doesn’t require Skills /Abilities: Superior guiding skills, strong personal ski ability and be physi- Dave Crerar (ASG) and Diane Turner the user to feed the rope through it or lower with it in an uncon- cally fit. Fluency in German is required for certain positions. were married on May 12th. ventional way, it allows a smooth progression to tube devices that Certifications/Qualifications: ACMG or IFMGA certificate. CAA Level 2 for Ski operations. Advanced first aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR cer- Alex Nadeau (SG) and his superstar allow rappelling with two rope strands. Replacing the larger plastic tificates. Valid class 4 driver’s license. wife Mireille, added another two mem- fins with something less bulky would just make an already great Please send resumes to: bers to their family of now six! The All class in the frozen food isle. Eric Ostopkevich & Nancy Morin (with a few other ACMG device just that much better. Colette Poirier – Human Resources twin girls named Charlotte and Adele bystanders….) Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing PO Box 130 Revelstoke, BC V0E 2S0 arrived in Revelstoke, BC on March Email: [email protected] 15th. Hannah Preston (RG) and Andrew Rennie (AG) were married in Golden, BC on May 20th. They are very excited to “continue our happy lives together!” WARMTH UP FRONT, Noah George Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (MG) on Valentines Day 2018. Noah joins their veteran youngster, Lauren Firth. BREATHABILITY Sarah Osberg (HG) was married to Gabriel Côté-Valiquette in March. Olan Désautels Bélanger was born on April 21st in Canmore, AB to Ken Bé- IN THE BACK. langer (ACMG Partnership Coordinator, SG, HG) and his conjointe Julie Dés- autels. Happy and healthy at 3.2 kg, his “fur sister” Taiga has enthusiastically accepted him into their brood. ACMG Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar lives in Canmore, AB The Nano-Air® Light Hybrid Jacket

High output in low temperatures can be dangerous: You sweat, you stop, you freeze. The warm, stretchy and breathable Nano- Air® Light Hybrid Jacket will keep you at optimum operat- ing temperature with just the right amount of wind and weather protection where you need it. Airy waffl e knit dissipates heat when you’re going all out.

Above: Olan Désautels Bélanger with papa Ken and “fur sister” Taiga. Jumbo fi nds a good boulder and an even better view on the way to bigger objectives from El Chaltén. Masazumi Sato © 2018 Patagonia, Inc. Left: Mika Wolf Goodman Thomson

The Arête 46 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 47 The Arête PA_A_AL_P.indd 1 18 1:5 A Member Updates In Memory of Brian Greenwood Changes in ACMG Membership 1934–2018 1 December 2017 to 30 June 2018 The following changes include new members and their certification level as well as certifications achieved by ACMG members during this period. Due to TRU and TAP pri- By Nancy Greenwood vacy policies it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on TRU-CMSG and TAP courses nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member certifications. Always check www.acmg.ca for current status. Please contact [email protected] with questions, errors or omissions. Italicized names indicate new ACMG members. Mountain Guide Assistant Hiking Guide Macdonald, Wilson Milner, Phillip CGI1 Maki, Kayo Lawson, Alexander Brown, Sarah Moorman, Alexander CGI2 Cornish, Charles Medvedova, Alzbeta Neal, Tomas Apprentice Ski Guide Diepstraten, Rianne Milner, Patrick O’Donoghue, Kyle AHG Douglas, Jeffrey Murphy, Erin Pentland, Charlie CGI1 Armstrong, Kevin Flegel, Cindy Ng, Jess Potter, Anne Drew CGI1 Birse, Jeremy ARG Kung, Kevin Perez, Gustavo Russell, Alex CGI1 Bryan, David HG Loree, Jason Pimentel, Sophia Rhymer, Marlaina Chartrand, Kyle AG MacMillan, Fraser Potter, Anne Drew Schellenberg, Eli CGI1, VFG Collins, Timothy Mills, Tyler SG Reilly, Peter Twitchell, Susan Garner, Matthew Peterson, Dan Rhymer, Marlaina Villegas, Bastien CGI2 Greenberg, Adam Smith, Lydia Rushton, Brooklyn Ward, Peter Johnson, Tim AAG Underschultz, Laura Russell, Alexander Webb, Fern Kuruc, Jason Walker, Holly ASG Stager, Samuel Ya Hin, Huang PLAR MacDonald, Scotty Sulewski, Nicole Young, Connor Nave, Peter Szalony, Brandon Poborilova, Jana AHG Via Ferrata Guide Szrejber, Konrad Joined ACMG 1st time Robert, Alexandre Tai, Victoria Groundwater, Ben ASG (through previous course) Schellenberg, Dane Schellenberg, Eli CGI1, TRCI Theoret, Christian Schoen, Peter McKoy, Samuel SG, HG Trask, Sarah Bagley, Giles ARG Spence, Tom Tribe, Sean SG Waldorf, Jesse Belcourt, Lee Anne ARG Stevens, Luke Rasmussen, Tristen SG Watson, Jade Bulmer, Joanna ARG Stonehouse, Elliot Watson, Zachary Oram, Katie ARG Sullivan, Chelsea Climbing Gym Instr. 1 Winchester, Ian Poborilova, Jana AHG Tani, Takeshi AAG, AHG Wingfield, Jennifer Yau, Teresa ARG Tattersfield, Michael Archdekin, Hannah Wong, Mikayla Brian Greenwood. Photo provided by Nancy Greenwood Vrooman, Ryan Armitage, Heather Yeung, Richard Reinstated to ACMG Bailey, Andrea Waring, Marcus Bertram, Katie CGI1 Brian Greenwood passed away on April 6, 2018 at the end Nancy will miss him forever, but in his journey toward Whittall, Steve Bekolay, Nicholas of a good life. He was born in 1934 in Hebden Bridge, death he always said he would die with gratitude for the Bruce, Nicholas Climbing Gym Instr. 2 Mayhew, Hudson CGI1 Widmer, Philip Miller, Mark HG a steep-hilled woolen mill town in the Pennines of West good life he had had. He felt fortunate for the enduring Burrell, Liam Wrench, Andrew Desjarlais, Isiah Milligan, Sean CGI2 Yorkshire, England. friendships with fellow climbers. He will be missed by his Chaplin, Lisa Lokay, Hedvig Chiu, George Moorman, Alexander CGI2 Brian immigrated to Canada in 1956 and settled in Cal- daughter Arwen, named for the Princess in “Lord of the Ski Guide Montal, Jaedwin Reston, Peter CGI2 Craig, Steven M O'Neill, Ryan gary, AB because it was close to the Rockies. Within a year Rings”. She was the apple of his eye. He was so proud of his Banwell, Damian Stevenson, Michael CGI1/TRCI de Ocampo, Katherine Renwick, Jesse he was doing serious climbs, and over an 18-year career his sons, all good men, and all loved; Robin, Brandy and Dorn. Chance, Aaron Thisdelle, Jordan CGI1 Dengler, Victoria Reston, Peter Cunningham, Dylan establishment of new routes, record of first ascents (nota- No service is planned, but please raise a glass in memory Dykstra, Peter Villegas, Bastien bly those on hard north faces), winter ascents and traverses of Brian. He went “gentle into that good night.” Farley, Darren Eckhardt, Kirstyn Resigned from ACMG was remarkable. He was instrumental in the establishment Farquharson, Jordan Fache, Garrett Birch, Nashira of the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides, and in Girard, Christopher French, Samantha Top Rope Climbing Instr. Nancy Greenwood is Brian's wife from Duncan, BC Dochstader, Drew 1965 he organized and instructed the first guide course in Graham, Lorne Gamboa, Carmi Bejcar, Nicholas Hurley, Conor Dufresne, Daniel Canada. Henriquez, Chris Bender, Amy Johnston, Monte Hill, Chloe Bessette, Mitchell Foster, Dana In his 40s he moved to Golden, B.C. where he met Geoff Creighton Lamoureux, Justin Hrynchyshyn, Sonia Buckingham, Heather Fritz, Julie-Anne Nancy, the community librarian. In 1980 they started their Latimer, Forest Huang, Ya Han Chong, Len Green, Jason life together and moved to Duncan, BC on Vancouver 1960-2018 Macfarlane, Ruari Jiang, Wenwen Choy, Ming Yiu (Daniel) PLAR Jewitt, Carson Island where Brian transitioned from climbing to sailing, Martin-Preney, Madeleine Jurick, Kari Cordingley, Dylan CGI1 McLellan, Cameron and spent the next 10 sailing the inside waters, often single- Just before this issue went to press, we learned of the death McKnight, Dale Katzell, Sophia De Vries, Chris Morgan, Andrea handing, in his 27 foot sloop. At home he dug a basement of one of our members, Geoff Creighton. Watch for his Petrusic, Tyler Keleher, Myles Esteves Ferreira, Mario CGI1 Page, Daryl Poulton, Evan under their hillside cottage with a shovel and wheelbarrow. obituary in the next ACMG eBulletin. Pichette, Daniel Kosowski, Mike Fuller, David Reimer, Marc Robinson, Wayne In their garden he built dry stone walls, and granite terraces More information about Geoff can be found here: Laitinen, Lena Grasby, Logan CGI1 Schalles, Brad Shave, Kirkland and rock stairways. When his sailing days were over, he Larsen, Garret Lascelle, Chase https://gripped.com/profiles/ Senecal, Stephen Lastiwka, Hunter Stelfox, Jennifer started cycling and continued into his 80's. He loved to gar- Lewis, James canadian-climber-geoff-creighton-1960-2018/ St. Julian, Brodie Lauer, Thomas Lin, Jeff PLAR Venn, Kevin den, and he grew the best strawberries in the whole world. White, Graeme Lee, Hunter Mancini, Jason CGI1 Ykema, Andrea Lindahl, Kaelynn Markall, Dallas The Arête 48 Summer 2018 Summer 2018 49 The Arête ACMG Contact Information For up to date information go to www.acmg.ca Board of Directors - Officers of the Board President Vice-President Secretary-Treasurer Marc Ledwidge James Madden Kevin Dumba Director at Large, Public Director at large, public Harvie Heights, AB Canmore, AB Calgary, AB Rick Cowburn [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Calgary, AB Board of Directors - Elected Directors [email protected] Director, Specialty Guides Director, Apprentice Guides Director, Climbing Instructors Director, Hiking Guides Director at large, member MG Madeleine Martin-Preney Vacant Scott McKay Chris Kaipio Cecelia Mortenson Revelstoke BC Canmore, AB Whistler BC Revelstoke, BC [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

Director, West Coast Director, Interior Director, Eastern Canada Director, Rockies Director at large, member MG Ross Berg Kirsten Knechtel Stephane Gagnon Jordy Shepherd James Madden Squamish BC Golden BC Sainte-Anne-Des-Monts , QC Canmore AB Canmore AB [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

Board Advisors Organizational Contractors The Arête Newsletter Communications Finance The ACMG has a variety of independent The Arête is a semi-annual publication focusing Kimanda Jarzebiak John Gillett contractors who fulfill the required ad- on relevant technical issues and member news for Ascent Public Affairs Canmore, AB ministrative functions of the association. ACMG members. Victoria, BC

Legal Technical Director The technical director oversees all Editor-in-Chief G W Kent Scarborough Marc Piché technical standards matters and Shaun King Scarborough Herman Bluekens Canmore, AB chairs the technical committee. Canmore, AB New Westminster, BC [email protected] The TD reports to the president. [email protected]

ACMG Administrative Support The administrative support group is led by the executive director, and is responsible for matters relating to membership, member services, accounting, IT, sponsor- ship, CPDs and events. The executive director reports to the president. Executive Director Permit Manager, Administrative Assistant Member Services Web, Graphics and IT Partnership Coordinator Events & CPD Peter Tucker Assistant to ED Elaine Powers Manager Coordinator Ken Bélanger Coordinator Bragg Creek, AB Janet Miller Rossland, BC Laura Young Chris Miller Canmore, AB Lauren Shearston [email protected] Canmore, AB [email protected] Canmore, AB Canmore, AB [email protected] Canmore AB [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] ACMG Committees Committees are groups of volunteers who assist the board of directors and executive director with some operational work and decicion making for the association. As a member-driven organization with limited resources, the ACMG relies on its committees for insight and energy. A member of the board typically, but not necessarily, chairs each committee. The president and executive director are ex officiomembers of all committees. If you are interested in becoming involved with one of the commit- tees, please contact the president [email protected]. YEAH, Awards Neil Haggard (public) Larry Stanier Mentorship Scholarship Chair: Chris Miller Caroline Marion (public) Ben Firth Chair: Madeleine Martin-Preney Chair: Derek Wilding [email protected] Dave Stark Scott McKay [email protected] [email protected] Lloyd Gallagher Larry Stanier Jordy Shepherd Julie Timmins Helen Sovdat Leslie Taylor (public) MCR Olivia Sofer Jordy Shepherd SHE HANGS Sylvia Forest Marni Virtue (public) Chair: Brian Gould Brent Peters Sharon Wood Marc Piché Darren Vonk [email protected] Tim Johnson Markus Ebner Rupert Wedgwood Larry Stanier Patrick Lindsay Technical

Brad White Kenzie Wade Steve Holeczi Technical Director: Delano Lavigne Conrad Janzen Professional Practices Marc Piché [email protected] Conduct Review Governance Tom Wolfe Chair: Nathan Dahl James Blench WITH US Chair: Jeremy Mackenzie Chair: Rick Cowburn [email protected] Dwayne Congdon [email protected] [email protected] Membership Services James Blench Todd Guyn Committee members added Steve Blagbrough Chair: Ben Firth Brent Goodman Kirk Mauthner Pictured: Alannah Yip, MEC climbing ambassador as necessary. Pool includes: Pierre Hungr [email protected] Ryan Merrill Craig McGee and all-around badass. John Bell Kent Scarborough (legal advisor) Christoph Dietzfelbinger Dave Healey Helen Sovdat Paul Berntsen Paul Vidalin Jorg Wilz Veronika Vackova Barry Blanchard Derek Holtved MEC.CA Gillian Calder (public) Incident Review Janet Miller Nathan Dahl Chair: Mark Klassen Mike Welch George Field [email protected] Rod Gibbons Kent Scarborough (legal advisor)

The Arête 50 Summer 2018 SummerASSOCIATION 2018 OF CANADIAN MOUNTAIN GUIDES_ AETE 51FULL PAGE AD The Arête

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The Arête 52 Summer 2018