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Les Clochers D'arpette
31 Les Clochers d’Arpette Portrait : large épaule rocheuse, ou tout du moins rocailleuse, de 2814 m à son point culminant. On trouve plusieurs points cotés sur la carte nationale, dont certains sont plus significatifs que d’autres. Quelqu’un a fixé une grande branche à l’avant-sommet est. Nom : en référence aux nombreux gendarmes rocheux recouvrant la montagne sur le Val d’Arpette et faisant penser à des clochers. Le nom provient surtout de deux grosses tours très lisses à 2500 m environ dans le versant sud-est (celui du Val d’Arpette). Dangers : fortes pentes, chutes de pierres et rochers à « varapper » Région : VS (massif du Mont Blanc), district d’Entremont, commune d’Orsières, Combe de Barmay et Val d’Arpette Accès : Martigny Martigny-Combe Les Valettes Champex Arpette Géologie : granites du massif cristallin externe du Mont Blanc Difficulté : il existe plusieurs itinéraires possibles, partant aussi bien d’Arpette que du versant opposé, mais il s’agit à chaque fois d’itinéraires fastidieux et demandant un pied sûr. La voie la plus courte et relativement pas compliquée consiste à remonter les pentes d’éboulis du versant sud-sud-ouest et ensuite de suivre l’arête sud-ouest exposée (cotation officielle : entre F et PD). Histoire : montagne parcourue depuis longtemps, sans doute par des chasseurs. L’arête est fut ouverte officiellement par Paul Beaumont et les guides François Fournier et Joseph Fournier le 04.09.1891. Le versant nord fut descendu à ski par Cédric Arnold et Christophe Darbellay le 13.01.1993. Spécificité : montagne sauvage, bien visible de la région de Fully et de ses environs, et donc offrant un beau panorama sur le district de Martigny, entre autres… 52 32 L’Aiguille d’Orny Portrait : aiguille rocheuse de 3150 m d’altitude, dotée d’aucun symbole, mais équipée d’un relais d’escalade. -
The Alpinist Production Notes
Present Directed by Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen Produced by Mike Negri, Clark Fyans and Ben Bryan Starring Marc-André Leclerc, Brette Harrington, Alex Honnold, Reinhold Messner, Barry Blanchard Running Time: 93 min. Roadside Attractions Contacts: David Pollick | Ronit Vanderlinden [email protected] | [email protected] 323-882-8490 New York Publicity Contacts: Lauren Schwartz [email protected] 646-384-4694 Los Angeles Publicity Contacts: Michael Aaron Lawson, Inc. Michael Lawson [email protected] 213-280-2274 For publicity materials please visit: https://roadsideattractionspublicity.com/filmography/the-alpinist/ For downloadable trailer and clips please visit: www.epk.tv SYNOPSIS As the sport of climbing turns from a niche pursuit to mainstream media event, Marc-André Leclerc climbs alone, far from the limelight. On remote alpine faces, the free-spirited 23-year-old makes some of the boldest solo ascents in history. Yet, he draws scant attention. With no cameras, no rope, and no margin for error, Marc-André’s approach is the essence of solo adventure. Intrigued by these quiet accomplishments, veteran filmmaker Peter Mortimer (The Dawn Wall) sets out to make a film about Marc-André. But the Canadian soloist is an elusive subject: nomadic and publicity shy, he doesn’t own a phone or car, and is reluctant to let the film crew in on his pure vision of climbing. As Peter struggles to keep up, Marc-Andrés climbs grow bigger and more daring. Elite climbers are amazed by his accomplishments, while others worry that he is risking too much. Then, Marc-André embarks on a historic adventure in Patagonia that will redefine what is possible in solo climbing. -
Alpine Club Notes Honorary Secretary
OFFICERS AND COMMITTEE FOR 2016 PRESIDENT ..................................................................... Lindsay Griffin VICE PRESIDENTS ......................................... Sandy Allan, Malcolm Bass Alpine Club Notes HONORARY SECREtaRY ..................................................... Anna Lawford HONORARY TREASURER ................................................... John Dempster HONORARY EDITOR OF THE ALPINE JOURNAL ............................. Ed Douglas HONORARY LIBRARIAN ......................................................... Jerry Lovatt CHAIRS OF SUB-COMMITTEES: CLIMBING & EVENTS ...................................................... Jonathan White FINANCE .................................................................... Kimball Morrison MARKETING, MEMBERSHIP & RECRUITMENT ........................ Tony Westcott PROPERTY ..................................................................... Victor Saunders CHAIR OF THE ALPINE CLUB LIBRARY COUNCIL ...................... Hywel Lloyd COMMITTEE, elected ................ Charlie Burbridge, Susan Jensen, Neil Pitts COMMITTEE, co-opted ..................................................... Hugh Alexander OFFICE BEARERS LONDON LECTURE ORGANISER ............................................ Derek Buckle SOUTH-WEST LECTURE ORGANISERS ................ Tony Westcott, Chris Storie PEAK LECTURE ORGANISER ................................................ Martin Wragg LAKES LECTURE ORGANISER ........................................... Laetitia Sterling EDINBURGH LECTURE ORGANISER -
Montagne360 La Rivista Del Club Alpino Italiano Novembre 2016 € 3,90
Montagne360 La rivista del Club alpino italiano novembre 2016 € 3,90 Portfolio LUCI E OMBRE Le forme dei monti nella magia del bianco e nero LA FINE DELL’ABBANDONO La nuova vita del rifugio Boccalatte del Club alpino italiano n. 50/2016. Poste Italiane Spa, sped. in abb. Post. - 45% art. 2 comma 20/b - legge 662/96 Filiale di Milano - legge 20/b 2 comma - 45% art. Post. in abb. sped. Spa, Italiane Poste 50/2016. n. del Club alpino italiano VEDAUWOO Granito e fessure del west americano 3,90. Rivista mensile Rivista 3,90. € Montagne360. Novembre 2016, 2016, Novembre Montagne360. Offerta riservata solo ai Soci CLUB ALPINO ITALIANO P Abbonati con lo sconto di oltre il P 6 numeri di Meridiani Montagne a soli euro IN REGALO IN OGNI 26,00 NUMERO (più € 1,90 contributo spese di spedizione) LA CARTINA anziché euro 45,00 ESCLUSIVA In più, potrai vincere uno splendido viaggio in Uzbekistan P sulla via della seta fino a Samarcanda. 10 giorni con l’archeologo tra yurte, deserti e montagne Dalle città mitiche come Samarcanda e Bukhara, ricche di monumenti storici, fino alla riserva naturale di Nuratau dove, tra aspre montagne, si trovano valli e canyon di selvaggia bellezza. Un itinerario inedito ed esclusivo, per un’esperienza unica. Il viaggio di 10 giorni, organizzato da Kailas, comprende: Volo internazionale A/R · Escursioni Regolamento completo su · Vitto e alloggio con pernottamento in hotel e nelle tipiche yurta, http://www.shoped.it/it/regolamento.cfm ·le tende dei nomadi nel deserto Montepremi, IVA compresa, 3.600,00 e Il primo Tour Operator Italiano fondato da Geologi Accompagnamento di un archeologo del team “Le Guide di Kailas”, che ti fa scoprire il mondo come nessun altro. -
Families Crowdfund a $200,000 Search for Two Climbers Missing In
Families Crowdfund a $200,000 Search for Two Climbers Missing in Pakistan Friends and loved ones scramble to arrange a risky, high-altitude search for Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson on one of the most extreme mountains on Earth. By Andrew Bisharat PUBLISHED SEPTEMBER 7, 2016 Climbers on skis approach the 23,901-foot Ogre I in Pakistan’s Karakoram Mountains. PHOTOGRAPH BY ACE KVALE, AURORA PHOTOS There was radio silence in Utah on the evening of August 25, 2016. and family came together and arranged something remarkable, and possibly unprecedented. Climbers Kyle Dempster, 33, and Scott Adamson, 34, were 12 hours late in returning from their scheduled five-day alpine climb in Pakistan. Within just a few days of the climbers’ missed deadline, this small network of friends and family raised nearly $200,000 to cover search costs; cata- Back home, their family and friends started to worry—perhaps with good lyzed diplomatic support within American, Swiss, and Pakistani embassies; reason. and convinced high ranks within Pakistan’s military to execute an order to go Dempster and Adamson were trying to tackle one of the most extreme forward with a risky, high-altitude helicopter search. mountaineering challenges in the world: the unclimbed north face of the It was all anyone could do to give the two Americans every last chance. Ogre II, a peak in northern Pakistan. The Ogre I (23,901 feet/7,285 meters) and Ogre II (22,835 feet/6,960 Finding Hope meters) are separate summits that comprise a craggy massif that is officially Driving from Wyoming to Utah, Savannah Cummins texted her friend Angela called Baintha Brakk. -
219 Hinds and Me to 9,000 Feet on the Upper Nabesna Glacier Below
CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS: CANADA 219 Hinds and me to 9,000 feet on the upper Nabesna Glacier below Regal Mountain (13,845’). We established a high camp at 10,800 feet, from which we made an ascent of Peak 12,454’ (first ascended in June, 1955) via its east ridge (Alaska Grade 1). The next day, we climbed Regal Mountain up its southern slopes (Alaska Grade 2) after retreating from its striking southwest ridge. We then spent two days skiing 15 miles west over Mountaineers’ Passto an 8,000-foot camp below the north face of Rime Peak (12,741’) and Atna Peak (13,860’), scrambling up Peak 8,560’ en route. Cory, Wayne, Ben and Cathy then climbed the northwest face of Parka Peak (13,280’) (Alaska Grade 1) via Mountaineers’ Pass, only removing their skis for the final 700 feet. Cory, Elena, Wayne and Cathy then attempted the east ridge of Rime Peak (Alaska Grade 2) from the At&Rime co1 before turning back at 12,500 feet. Exposed snow and ice climbing up to 60 degrees made for exciting climbing. Future parties should be aware that all routes up Parka, Atna and Rime Peaks from the north are exposed to sometimes considerable serac avalanche danger. Our group also made ascents of Peak 10,060’, Peak 8,500’+ and Peak 7,280’ before our pilot returned for us on May 22, after 14 sunny days in the Wrangells. DAVID HART,Mountaineering CIub ofAlaska CANADA ST. ELIASRANGE Northwest Cook to Mt. Cook, Traverse. Climbers Greg Brown (Canada), Bertrand Eynard (France), Dave Hildes (Canada), and Alun Hubbard (leader, UK) and crew Chris Bamett, Armel Castello, Tobyn Ross (all from Canada) left Vancouver on June 14 aboard Gambo, a 46-foot steel ketch, to sail the Inside Passageup the west coast of North America to Yakutat Bay, Alaska, in 12 days. -
Catalogue 46: July 2012
Top of the World Books Catalogue 46: July 2012 Mountaineering Everest Expedition 2007. The team initially planned to attempt Everest from the north but permission was refused on account of Bém’s Buddhist beliefs and Alpinist Magazine #38. Spring 2012. #26026, $14.95 prior meetings with the Dalai Lama. They then received permission for the Álvarez, Miguel Ángel Pérez. Dos Escaladas al Everest: Crónica de las south side and Bém, at the time the mayor of Prague, achieved the summit along Expediciones de Castilla y León (1999 – 2001). 2004 Junta de Castilla y with two Sherpa members. This magnificent book not only covers their climb Leon, Consejeria Cultura y Turismo, 1st, 8vo, pp.217, 83 color photos, wraps; but also features numerous photos of Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan, and India. This also light rubbing, else new. #24430, $49.- includes a nicely produced, 28-min DVD ‘Window in the Sky’ covering the The accounts of two Spanish expedition to Everest, both via the South Col route. climb. Portions of the video, near the end, are in English. (This may not work The 1999 expedition reached 7500m on the Lhotse Face before deep snow and in NTSC players but does play with VLC Media Player on a PC.) In Czech, no avalanches forced a halt. The return expedition in 2001 succeeded in placing English translation. This set weighs 5.5 pounds. three members on the summit. In Spanish, no English translation. Benavides, Angela. ¡Cumbre! Los 14 Ochomiles de Edurne Pasabán Barker, Ralph. The Last Blue Mountain. 1959 Chatto & Windus, London, [Summit! The 14 Eight-Thousanders of Edurne Pasaban]. -
The Himalaya's First Via Ferrata Skaha Bluffs Climbing History New
TheVolume 49, ArêteSummer 2018 The Himalaya's First Via Ferrata Page 18 New Zealand Summer Guiding Page 24 Skaha Bluffs Climbing History Page 28 Maximizing the Practicum/ Mentor Experience Page 38 Contents Editorial It's a Crappy Job but Somebody Has to Do it! 32 President’s Perspective 4 Active Listening and The Interpersonal Gap 34 Tucker Talk 5 Maximizing the Practicum/Mentor Experience 38 News Gear Reviews Training and Assessment Program Update 6 Pieps Micro Avalanche Beacon Review 40 Technical Director’s Report 8 2019 G3 Alpinist Glide Skin Review 42 ACMG Partnership Update 10 Black Diamond ATC Pilot Review 44 ACMG Scholarship News 12 Member Updates Spotlight on ACMG Members Diapers and Vows 47 Jean-Philippe LeBlanc Wins Sylvie Marois Award 14 In Memory of Brian Greenwood 48 Beef Jerky & Waders —First One Day Link up of Changes in ACMG Membership 49 Theft and Gift Ice Climbs 16 ACMG Officers, Directors, Advisors, The Sky's Way—The Himalaya's First Via Ferrata 18 Staff and Committees 50 ACMG Member Photo Gallery 22 KONSEAL FL SHOE Features Gain traction with a technical New Zealand Summer Guiding 24 approach shoe designed for stability and comfort on fast Skaha Bluffs Climbing History 28 and light adventures in serious FIRE!! Is your Backcountry Lodge Prepared? 30 mountain terrain. The Arête “That's what's so amazing about climbing—it's not just a sport. It's a lifestyle, it's a way of being creative, of connecting with yourself and with nature.” Chris Sharma Editor-in-Chief: Shaun King Editorial Consultants: Mary Clayton, Peter Tucker, Marc Piché Editorial Policy The Arêteattempts to print every submission believed to be of interest to the ACMG membership including items that challenge the Association to examine its actions or direction. -
North America I998
PAUL HORTON / AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL North America i 998 Our thanks to Rock & Ice and Climbing magazines, who have been an important source of informationfor many ofthe climbs mentioned in this report. 998 saw a continuation of trends from previous seasons across North 1America. Very difficult free climbing was accomplished throughout the land, including notable achievements on the big walls of Yosemite. The evolution of mixed climbing standards continued in centres such as Vail in Colorado, Hyalite Canyon in Montana, and the Rocky Mountains of Canada. Light and fast was the word on big northern mountains and exploration of the very big walls of Baffin Island continued. New routes of a high standard were discovered in the familiar terrain of the Tetons andthe peaks ofRocky Mountain National Park, while forays in Mexico tantalised climbers with glimpses of new areas of vast potential. The most significant continuing trend in North American climbing, how ever, was that of increasing access problems to the climbing areas themselves. New rules at Hueco Tanks in Texas effectively eliminated all but a fraction of the climbing there. On a national level, the US Forest Service banned fixed protection from the Wilderness Areas they administer, affecting climbing in numerous beloved places. This decision impacted more than bolted sport routes: all gear left in place for any reason was outlawed, including traditional pitons, nuts, slings, and bolts. Because of concerted political action by the public, the outdoor industry, the Access Fund, and the American Alpine Club, implement ation of this ban was rescinded until a 'negotiated rule-making process' occurs, but the threat continues to loom large. -
Taternik 2005, Nr 2
Nr 2/2005 • UKAZUJE SIĘ OD 1907 ROKU ���� ��������� ������� ������ CENA 8,00 ZŁ (w tym 0% VAT) SPIS TREŚCI Jan Paweł II i jego góry (J. Nyka).................................1 14 stycznia 2005 roku o godzinie 13:13... (P. Morawski)..............................................................3 Pakistańsko-polska wyprawa na Diran (A. Lwow)....................................................................7 Zima 2005 w Tatrach (A. Paszczak).............................9 W Masywie Mont Blanc zimą 2005............................10 Pękająca Szklana Góra – monografia zachodniej ściany Dru (G. Głazek).......15 Kanadyjskie Góry Skaliste 2004/2005 (R. Sławiński)...........................................................21 W Grampianach (Jan Kuczera).................................23 „Gritstone climbing” w Peak District National Park (Jacek Przywara i Artur Sobczyk)...............................25 Na panelu (A. Kamiński)............................................29 W lodzie i skale (A. Kamiński)....................................31 Puchar Polski 2005 w narciarstwie wysokogórskim (J.R. Bilski)................................................................32 Wiosenny Memoriał Jana Strzeleckiego w Pięciu Stawach (M. Głogoczowski)..........................35 Mistrzostwa Europy i Pierra Menta............................37 Rozmaitości...............................................................38 Sprawozdanie Fundacji im. J. Kukuczki (K. Gradoń i J. Natkański).........................................42 Nowości wydawnicze.................................................43 -
Catalogue 51: Oct 2014
Top of the World Books Catalogue 51: Oct 2014 Mountaineering This is largely a photographic account of the 1973 Italian expedition to Annapurna. The 11-member team followed the French first-ascent route up to Alpinist Magazine #47. Summer 2014. #26750, $14.95 Camp II on a plateau and then broke off in a new direction up the NW Spur. Accidents in North American Mountaineering. 2014 new. #26810, $12.- They had established Camp III and IV and reached 23,125’ when a storm American Alpine Club Journal. 2014 new. #26809, $49.95 broke. Two members stayed in Camp II while the others descended. Tragically, Abelein, Manfred. Shisha Pangma: Eine Deutsche Tibetexpedition a large ice and rock avalanche swept the plateau and eliminated Camp II and bezwingt den Letzten Achttausender [Shisha Pangma: A German Tibet the two climbers who remained there. The expedition was then abandoned. This Expedition Conquers the Last Eight-thousander]. 1980 Gustav Lübbe book weighs four pounds. First published in 1974, this edition is identical to the Verlag, Bergisch Gladbach, 1st, 4to, pp.216, photo frontis, 168 color & 52 bw first but also includes 24 pages in English. In English and Italian. photos, sketch, photo/map eps, blue cloth; dj fine, cloth fine. #12137, $75.- Bonington, Chris. Everest: South West Face. 1973 Hodder & Stoughton, Abelein (1930-2008) was a German professor of law, politician, pilot, and London, 1st, 8vo, pp.352, 80 color & 15 bw photos, blue cloth; signed Bonington mountaineer. He co-led, along with Günter Sturm, the 1980 German expedition & Doug Scott, dj clipped, else fine, cloth fine. -
14 for Pdf.Indd
UR O WINTER ON THE PACIFIC RIM ACKYARD B uadra Island Q Mtn BikeWILDWILD Trails ISLEISLE Canada’sCanada’s WestWest CoastCoast AdventureAdventure MagazineMagazine FREE Ski Trips From Mt Washington Caving On The North Island ISSUE #14 JANUARY-MARCH, 2001 wildislemagazine.bc.ca Start your day with a heaping bowl of snowflakes. One alpine bowl contains 100% of your North Island High recommended daily allowances of rip-roaring fun, fresh air, and exercise. Eat it all up with touring, telemarking, ski mountaineering, snowshoeing, and snowboarding gear and clothing from MEC. Snow Lines We can equip you for Port Hardy daytrips or days-on-end (250) 949-7669 in the winter backcountry. Campbell River Play safe in the snow; visit (250) 287-9274 www.mec.ca/snowsafety.htm for more information. Accommodations & Information 130 West Broadway, Vancouver. 872-7858 1-888-668-6622 MOUNTAIN A lifetime share in MEC is only $5.00 EQUIPMENT Call 1-800-663-2667 for a catalogue www.island.net/~cain CO-OP Visit www.mec.ca The adventure begins 1.5 hours north of Campbell River DISCOVERYDISCOVERY Extraordinary Kayaks for Extraordinary People Heli Adventure 1-866-285-2724 [email protected] www.heliadventure.com Guided hiking, fishing & photo tours Innovative designs for Ask about our all inclusive packages optimum comfort, safety & performance Visit www.SeawardKayaks.com to read about the El Nina Sisters at Sea Expedition, other Extraordinary Paddlers and all of Seaward's quality touring kayaks. QuadraQuadra IslandIsland •• BritishBritish ColumbiaColumbia For a free Catalogue call 1 800 595 9755 Cover: Snowboarder, Mt Washington by Philip Stone Contents: Surfer, Long Beach WILDWILD ISLEISLE by Greg Shea www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca CCONTENTONTENTSS BC Parks View Point p 9 Our Backyard...Quadra Mtn Biking p 11 King’s Peak Ski Trip p 17 Cannonballs, Moonmilk & Soda Straws p 19 Winter Trips from Mt Washington p 21 Ice Club p 23 Reviews p 24 www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca west coast adventure • WILD ISLE ISLE WILD CANADIAN Play Safe AVALANCHE Get Informed ASSOCIATION Keep Informed P.O.