Index 2016 I n d e x 2 0 1 6 435

A Aldejo 186 Arnold-Forster, William Edward 126 Barnard, Michael 284 Aar 182, 183 Alisary 416 Arnot, Melissa 288 Baroghil Pass 365 Aar valley 182 Allan, Sandy 285, 335, 423 Arolla 390, 395 Bartlett, Phil 321 Aastorp, Aslak 418 Allen, John 154 Arosio, Tito 300, 301, 304 Baruntse 286 Aberdares 367 Allen, Rick 335, 354 river 347 Basel 406 Aberystwyth University 400, 402 Alletto, Franco 264 Ascent of (The), Ardito Desio 222 Basford, Andrew 319 Abingdon 389 Allin Qhapaq 365 Ascent (The), W H Hudson 344 Bass, Malcolm 284 Abner, Omar 300 Almond, Dave 282 A Shepherd’s Life, W H Hudson 129 Bates, Roger 302 Abraham, Ashley 167, 168 Alphanalph, Caspar 182 A Snow Goose and other utopian fictions, Batian Abraham, George 167 Alpine Group 371, 373, 374, 399, 400 Jim Perrin 344 Firmin-Hicks 366, 367 Abrahamsson, Mikael 324 Alpine Club 69, 89, 155, 167, 193, 264, 267, Aspel, Michael 401, 402 West Ridge 366 Abram, Erich 217, 218, 224, 227, 228, 230 316, 337, 339, 342, 373, 374, 382, 387, 400, 402, Association Medical Journal 181, 185 Bat (The) 376, 378 Aconcagua 314 405, 421 Astill, Tony 347, 348 Beard, Eric 358 Acosta, José, de 185 Alpine Journal 163, 182, 192, 247, 267, 373 Ata-Ullah, Mohammad 221, 222 Beard, Mary 329 Adams, Neil 282 Alpine Warriors, review 329 Athenaeum 182 Beaver, Harold 346 Adams Reilly, Anthony 426 Alpinist 276, 345 Atlantic 101, 107 Beckey, Fred 61, 160 Adams, Robert 320 188, 189, 195, 206, 237, 250, 271, 360, 385, Atlantic Ocean 197, 407 Beck, Jules 181 Adams, Tom 320 386, 390, 406 Atlas 377 Beddow, Rob 101, 108 Adelaide University 145 Alpstein massif 407 Attar, Mt (2190m) 103, 107 Bedogni, Vittorio 51 Adler, Tom 352 Alsford, Emma 361 Auer, Hansjörg 279 Beinn Bhan Admiralty 410 Altels 265 191, 248 Direct Start 284 Afanassieff, Jean 230 Alva, William 297 69, 89, 390 Great Overhanging Gully 284 Afghanistan 256, 262, 395 Ama Dablam 255, 286, 289, 417 Avellano Towers 318 Gully of the Gods 284 Agil 44, 46, 48, 50 Amarkantak 366 Nam Famhairean 284 Agnolotti, Giuseppe 308 Amatt, John 417, 418, 419 B The Godfather 284 Agpamiut 104, 108 Amelunxen, Conny 310 Baber, Ingrid 113, 115 Wall of the Early Morning Light 284 A Great Effort, dir Jim Curran and Tony Riley 376 Amin, Idi 366 Baca, Eduardo 307, 308 Beinn Eighe Aguja Bifida 318 Amundsen, Roald 190 Backshall, George 366 Bruised Violet 284 Aguja Guillaumet 318 An Afterclap of Fate, Charles Lind 346 Baffin 101 Immortal Memory 284 Agujas del Sosneado 314 Anchorage 316, 317 Baffin Island 333 Shoot the Breeze 284 Aguja Stanhardt Andes 188, 377 Bailey, F M 360 Beinn Eunaich 343 Exocet 67 Angel Galan Diaz, Pedro 69 Baillot, Erick 284 Belak, Stane 330 Ahlfeld, Friedrich 93, 95 Angmagssalik 384 Baker, Mike 374 Bell, Angelica 126 Aiguille d’Argentière 265 Annapurna 99, 249, 330, 334, 417 Balabanov, Nikita 421, 422 Bell, Clive 125 Bellin-Ravanel 274 Annapurna Base Camp 71 Baldi, Marcello 227 Bellin, Eric 271 Efareb 274 Annapurna I 289 Ballard, Tom 276 Bell, Peter 395, 396 Elévation 274 Annapurna III 1, 417 Bally 250 Ben Alder 382 Aiguille de la Tsa 390 Antarctica 76, 196, 197, 198, 202, 203, 407 Balmhorn 265 Benedek, Zoltan 290 Aiguille Dibona 167 Anthoine, Mo 376 Baltistan 398 Bennet, E T 189 348 Anthroposophical Society 394 Baltoro glacier 171, 173 Bennett, Scott 323 Balade 271 Aonach Eagach 392 Baltschiedertal hut 372 Ben Nevis 281, 343 Aiguille du Peigne 371 Aosta 165 Banachdaich Gully Anubis 281 Aiguille Noire Apennines 237 North Rib 284 Capricorn 283 South Ridge 399 Appenzell, 407 Owl Chimney 284 Gothic Edge 283 Aiguille Noire de Peuterey 371 Araiza Chávez, Daniel 297, 298 Band, George 371, 372, 399, 416 Tangerine Dream 283 Aiguilles Crochues 393 Arctic Circle 200 Banff 266 The Rattler 283 Aiguilles Rouges 395 Arctic Ocean 196, 198 Banff book festival 329 Zero Gully 209 Ailefroide Orientale (3847m) 274 Ardenno 242 Bangladesh 392 Benn, Nigel 213 Goulotte Grassi 274 Arelovich, Lisandro 312, 314 Bangor 402 Bentham, Yorkshire 123 Winter is Coming 274 Argentière glacier 348 Bannholzer, Melchior 182 Bergen 383 Akademischer Alpen-Club Zürich 265 Argentina 311, 312 Barberá Llansol, Enrique 296 Bergen, Fana 403 Ak Baikal valley 73, 74, 76, 325 Armitage, Simon 176 Barber, Henry 154 Berger, Phil De 322 Akureyri 113, 117 Armstrong, Neil 190 Bardan Gompa 85, 88 Bernese 265 Alaska 66, 198 Arnold, Dani 275, 276, 281 Barker, Brian 301 Bernese Oberland 86, 182 Alaska Highway 55 Arnold, Daniel 423 Barnack, Oskar 168 Bernina Alps 265 436 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 6 I n d e x 2 0 1 6 437

Berther, David 288 Bradley, Harry 250, 251 Buzzetti, Don Giuseppe 235, 236, 237, 238, Castoldi Dalai, Baldini 228 Bianchi, Daniele 277 Braithwaite, Paul ‘Tut’ 399 240, 242 Castro, Bruno 305 Biasini, Pietro 277 Bramani, Vitale 248 Cathedral Spires, Alaska Bielicki, Adam 26 Brandu Brakk (6285m) 410 C No Country for Old Men 316 Bietschhorn 265 Brant, Clare 125 Cáceres, Rafael 296 Catholic University of Ireland 185 Billon, Lise 421, 422 Brasenose 255, 256 Cairn Broadlands Caucasus 164, 408 Binnie, Mike, obituary 365–7 Brasher, Chris 150, 151, 380, 381 King Herod 282 Caukwell, Robert Arthur, obituary 367 Bionnassay 386 Breashers, David 349 Cairngorm Club 342 Cavalli, Ottavia 319 Bird Bone Peak 117 Bregaglia-Masino 277 Cairngorms 156, 282 Cave, Andy 1 Birnie, Bill 136, 138, 139, 141, 142, 143 381, 388, 390, 395 Cairngorm tragedy 149 Cave, George 325 Biven, Pete 358 Brenta Dolomites 395 Calisaya, Pantaleón 93 article: ‘Trying Tajikistan’ 73 Bizzaro, Leonardo 228, 230 Brice, Russell 286 Calling (The), 423, 424 Caxata 95 Blackshaw, Alan 383, 385, 399 Bridges, Robert 129, 130 Camasa, Sequel 308 Cecilia Street School of Medicine 184 Black Tower 44 Bristol 175 Cambridge 126, 145, 394, 395 Cenacchi, Giovanni 224, 227, 228, 229 Blair, Tony 372 Bristol Polytechnic 376 Cambridge Climbing Club 395 Central Council for Physical Recreation 380 Blakeley, Chris 319 Bristow, Lily 167 Cambridge University Club Centre for Mountain Studies 361 Blakemore, Tim 316 British Antarctic Survey 76, 356 370, 371 Cerberus Speleological Society 175 Blanchard, Barry 423, 424 British Boot, Shoe and Allied Trades Research Cameron, Duncan 176 Cerro Calacala (c4600m) 93 Bloomfield, Catherine 174, 175 Association (SATRA) 250 Campbell, C W 265 Cerro Chupica (5100m) 90, 91, 93, 97 Blume, Jovany 311 British Columbia 266 Campbell, Fiona 176 Cerro Colorado (4621m) 312 Boardman, Peter 157, 377, 411 British Council 370 Campbell, Robin 424 Cerro Gemelo Este (5117m) Boardman Tasker Award 329, 422 Camper, Petrus 243 314 British Etchers 392 Turbera Bocchetta Alta di Schiesone 237 Canada 205, 267 Cerro Huariananta (5400m) 90 British Indian Army 400 Bocchetta di Prata 237 Canfer, Brian 402 Cerro Jatunjasa (5350m) 310 British Medical Journal 181 Bocchetta Torelli 236, 239 Canon 169 Cerro Jurau 300 British Mountaineering Council 69, 157, 175, Body, Maggie 378 Capel Curig 380, 387 Cerro Kishtwar 422 193, 357, 361, 368, 372 Bognor Regis 367 Caprez, Nina 278 Cerro Morado (4490m) British Printmakers 392 Boivin, Jean-Marc 271 Carbajal, Marisol 305 Tangol-Vasquez 315 Brittle, Glen 390 Bole, Mauro ‘Bubu’ 279 Carhuacocha 298 Cerro Riso Patron 422 Broad Peak 40 Bolivia 90, 94, 311 Carlo, Cossi 302 Cerro San Francisco (4307m) Brochard, Benjemin 274 Bombay 264, 368 Carlsberg Fjord 113 Antiparkes 315 Brocklebank, Tom 143, 144, 145 Bonacossa, Aldo 241 Carn Dearg Cerro Tito (4905m) 312, 314 Brooke, Rupert 124, 126 Bonafede, Marcello 230 Gemini 283 Cerro Tolosa (5432m) 314 Bonatti, Walter 193, 216, 217, 218, 219, 220, Brooks, Robin 308 Carn Dearg Buttress Cerro Torre 154 221, 222, 223, 224, 226, 227, 228, 229, 351 Brouillard Pillar, Capricorn 283 Cerro Yeguas Heladas (4771m) Bonete 311 Red Pillar 222 Gemini 283 Yeguas Salvajes 314 Bonhams 123 Brown, David 318 Night Fury 283 Cerro Yeguas Muertas (4912m) Bonington, Sir Chris 160, 193, 230, 334, 341, Brown, Joe 357, 358, 376, 418 The Urchin 283 Wenatti 315 372, 377, 378, 411 Brown, T Graham 357, 399 Carreg Wastad 170 Cesen, Tomo 331 Bonneville 348 Bruce, Geoffrey 339 Carrington, 377 Chadwick, Mark 282 Bonney, Geoff 113, 115 Brückner, Christian 305 Carr-Saunders, Alexander 399 Challenge of K2 (The) 351 Bouguer, Pierre 186 Bryan, Kenneth 308 Carter, Claire 357 Chalmers, Robin 308 Boukreev, Anatoly 355 Bucan, Ante 330 Carter, James 246 31, 33, 163, 344, 347, 381, 383, 398, Boulogne-sur-Mer, 182 Buckle, Derek 89, 320 Cartwright, Charlie 384 407, 410 Bourdillon, Tom 254, 372 article: ‘Hidden Zanskar’ 82 Cartwright, Ian 5, 321 Musée Alpin 424 Boussingault, Jean-Baptiste 185 Buffet, Charlie 220 Casas, Ramiro 313 Changabang 334 Boustead, Hugh 136, 138, 139, 143 Bugaboo Spire (3185m) 266, 267 Cascada Central Chapman, David 317 Bowdler, Dave 284 Buhl, Hermann 218, 226 Fina y Sucia 315 Chapman, Freddie Spencer 384 Boyanov, Doychin 44 Bulgaria 41 Cascades 384 Chappell, Sophie Grace 282 Boysen, Martin 155, 230, 378 Bullock, Nick 271, 272, 283, 284 Casquel Lopez, Vicente 296 Chapuisat, Marianne 30 Bozic, Stipe 330, 331 Burdekin, Matt 318 Cassol, Davide 300, 302 Charakusa 44 Bracey, Jon 272, 273 Burger, Florian 297, 298 Castellanza 41 Charakusa glacier 40 Bradey, Lydia 349, 350 Burnet, Claire 427 Castelli, Giancarlo 264 Charakusa valley 31 Bradford 397 Burns, Steve 5, 321 Castle Peak 116 Charterhouse 126 Bradford University 386 Busto Arsizio 41 Castle Tirrim 327 Charton, Gabriel 346, 348 438 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 6 I n d e x 2 0 1 6 439

Cheeseman, Sylvia 381 Climbers’ Club 155, 175, 361, 374, 380, 382, Cordillera Vilcanota 294, 308 D Cheltenham 189 402, 410 Cordón de los Clonquis 312, 314 Dachstein 191, 407 Cheshire County Council 398 Climbers’ Club Journal 263 Cornice Peak 398 Daily Express 159 Chharka Bhot 16 Coatsworth, Richard 374 Corominas, Jordi 298 Dalmine bottles 221 Chhochenphu Himal (6260m) 287 Cobern, W T 265 Corompt, René 271 Dalmine oxygen set 227, 228 Chiardóla, G 265 Coire Choille-rais 283 Corrie Bonhard Dalwhinnie 380, 382 Chiavenna 236, 238, 240 Coire Ghranda Bamboozle Buttress 282 D’Andrea, Luca 296 284 Darjeeling 251 Chiddingly Wood 375 Direct Finish Corrie Farchal Ice Bomb 284 Dauphiné 402, 410 Chile 311, 372 The Age of Enlightenment 282 Coire Gorm Davies, Mark 361 Chimborazo 185 Corriere delle Alpi 226 The Wrecking Light 284 Deacon, Patrick 101, 103, 108 China 18, 357 Corris, Cadair Idris 380 Coire nam Fhamair 284 Corsica 406 Dean, Bill 402 Chisholm, Struan 320 Col de Balme 348 Coruisk hut 390 Dean, James 354 Chitral 254, 255, 256, 259, 260 Col de Lauteraar 183 Cossi, Carlo 300 Dean, Steve 424 Chitrali Scouts 259 Col de Voza 348 Costa, Marcos 322 De-Beger, James 287 Chloephaga melanoptera 90 Cold Feet: Stories of a Middling Climber 423 Costa, Saro 300, 301 Decurtins, Reno 288 Chokmetsik springs 85 Col du Géant 348 Council of Bars and Law Societies of Europe Degoulet, Frédéric 274, 298 Cho Oyu 286, 350, 354 Collie, Norman 342 (CCBE) 404 Degregori, Esteban 311, 314 Chopicalqui 393 Colombia 384 399 Dejori, Martin 278 ‘Chorley Formula’ 371 Colombo 410 Couzy, Jean 226 Delaroche, Paul 163 Chorley Hopkinson Library 372 Colton, Nick 6, 158, 321 Covington, Michael ‘Mick’ 156, 158 Delhi 88, 365 Communist Party of Great Britain 151 Denali 417 Chorley, Lord Roger 399 Cox, David 255, 372 Compagnoni, Achille 216, 217, 218, 219, Denali national park 69 obituary 370–5 Crawford, Ferdie 138, 139, 141, 142, 143, 144, 145 220, 221, 222, 223, 224, 225, 226, 227, 228, Denmark Strait 113 Choudens, G de 265 Creag an Dubh Loch 229, 230, 351 Dent Blanche 393 Chouinard, Yvon 156, 353 King Rat 384 Compton, Edward Theodore 424 Dent du Géant 236 Christie’s 392 The Vapouriser 282 Concha de Caracol (5640m) 294 Dent du Requin 381 Chugimago (6259m) 286 Creag Meagaidh Concordia 216 Derrida, Jacques 340 Chulu group 288 Birthday Route 283 Condamine, Charles, de La 186 de Saussure, Horace-Bénédict 348 Chumpe (6110m) 308 Cat Burglar 283 Condition of Ice (The), Christopher Burns 346 Descent (The), Jeff Long 344 Day After Tomorrow (The) 283 Church Door Buttress, Glen Coe Conefrey, Mick 216–8, 221–3, 225–30, 350 Desio, Ardito 219, 221, 222, 223, 224, 225, 228, Creighton, Rev Cuthbert 145 Crusade 281 Coney, Thomas 320 229, 351 Crew, Pete 170 Gates of Paradise 281, 282 Conley, Geoff 305 Desroy, Graham 424 Churchill, Winston 257 Conlon, Clay 73, 74, 78, 79, 80, 325 Crispin, Luis 310 Destivelle, Catherine 349, 350, 377, 422 Church, Michael 309 Conrad, Joseph 345, 346 Croatia 329, 330 Devon 175 Cilo Dag 333 Consiglio, Paulo 264 Crocket, Ken 342, 344 Dhaulagiri 19, 249, 330, 384 Cima Grande Constable Pynt 113, 117 Crofton, Adrian 280, 282 Dhaulagiri 2 (7751m) 13, 14, 16 Carillo-Gallego-Gomez-Lozano 279 Contamine, André 160 Crofton, Ian 344 Diama glacier 26 Crook, John 283, 318 Comici Route 277 Contartese, Charly 311, 314 Die Bergkrankheit; oder der Einfluss des Ersteigens Croustchoff, Boris de 265 North Face 407 Contax 168 grosser Höhen auf den thierischen Organismus 181 Crowley, Aleister 351 Cima Ovest 333 Cook, Dave 151 Diemberger, Kurt 351, 386 Croydon MC 366 Cir Mhor 343 Cook, Drew 84, 86, 87, 89, 320 Dietz, Peter 399 Cuargelhuain 297 Civetta (3220m) Cook, Joseph 319 Dir 257 Cook, Sophie 319 Ridge 390 Disley, John, obituary 380–382 Friends 278 Cool, Kenton 283, 320 White Wedding 284 Doble, Martin 101 Solleder 278 Cooper Brothers 374 Cul Mor, Coigach Docherty, Alistair 74, 76, 325 Via Degli Studenti 278 Cooper, Don 402 Buffalo Ballet 284 Doda river 82 Clachaig Inn, Glencoe 402 Coopers & Lybrand 387 Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island 395 Dolomites 265, 277, 278, 279, 375, 390 Clarke, Charles 411 Cordillera Blanca 291 CUMC 374 Dolphin, Arthur 357, 371 Clarke, Gunn 395 Cordillera de Huayhuash 297 Cunocollo (5560m) 92 Dolpo 13, 16 Cleare, John 335, 348, 352, 354, 382 Cordillera Huayhuash 293 Curran, Jim 350, 411 Dolpo: People and Land, Gerda Pauler 16 article: ‘Some Thoughts on Mountain Cordillera Quimsa Cruz 90 obituary 375–379 Donato, Andrea Di 296 Photography’ 162 Cordillera Santa Vera Cruz, Bolivia 90 Cusco 307 Donegal 358 Cliff, Peter 383, 385 Cordillera Urubamba 293, 306 Cyclone Hudhud 286 Donkin, William 162, 167, 168 Clifton College 394, 395 Cordillera Vilcabamba 309 Czech, Jacek 26 Donnithorne, Paul 361 440 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 6 I n d e x 2 0 1 6 441 d’Orbigny, Alcide 185, 186 Paciencia 275 Favresse, Oli 101 Fuller, Mathew 319 Dorchester-on-Thames 391 South Face 407 Fearnley, Laurence 349 Fyffe, Alan 154 Douglas, Ed 6, 321, 341, 355, 360 El Capitan 353 Feger, Joachim 279 Doyle, Arthur Conan 189 Eldridge, Malcolm 399 Fell & Rock Climbing Club 361, 370 G Dräger bottles 221 Electric Brae, Andrew Greig 346 Fenwick, Simon 212–5 Gabai, Daniel de 289 Dräger oxygen set 227, 230 Eliassen, Odd 418, 420 Feverer, Bill ‘Dolt’ 353 Gabarrou, Patrick 272, 274 Drakensberg 402 Ellesmere Island 383 Fichtinger, Harald 409 Gaggini, Aristide 242 Drew, Colin ‘Dan’, obituary 383–385 Elorza, Ignacio 315 Fida Tower 47 Galbert, Pierre de 271 Drosh 257 Emlyn Jones, J H 263 Fidelman, Dean 352 Gallagher, Lloyd 302 Dru, Aiguille de 163 Emslie, Miss Myrtle L 305 Fight for Everest 1924, The, E F Norton 124 Galotti, Pino 217, 218, 224 Bonatti Pillar 222 Enersen, Ole Daniel 418, 420 Files, Muriel 154 Gálvez Aramburu, Jorge ‘Coqui’ 293 Drummond, Ed 155 Englehörner 395 Filippini, Matteo 44 Galvez, Jorge ‘Coqui’ 308 Dublin 184 Eriksen, Hasse 404 Filippini, Sandro 230 Games Climbers Play (The), ed Ken Wilson 158 Duffield, David Brett 386–387 Espinoza, Edwin 295, 308, 310 Finch, George Ingle 141, 247, 248, 337, 338, 339 Ganalo Peak 26 Duff, Mal 71, 416, 417 Estcourt, Nick 230 Finch, Max 338 Gap 385 Dugit, Fabien 271 Etna 390 Finestrat 385 Garrington, Abbie, article: ‘Write me a little Duguid, Peter 323 Eton 387, 391 Finnefjeld 104 letter’ 123 Duke of Abruzzi 351 Evans, Denise 103, 106 Finnegan’s Wake, James Joyce 345 Garton, Robin, obituary 391–4 Dunai 14 Evans, Harold 340 Finnigan, John 420 Gasherbrum I 44 Durbin, Jim 398 Evans, J M C ‘Chuck’, obituary 387–389 Firmin, Arthur 368, 370 Gasherbrum II 30 Durkin, Steve 378 Evans, Lady Denise 387 Fisher, Alan, obituary 389–391 Gasherbrum IV 222 Duru 262 Evans, Sir Charles 387, 388 Fisher, Max 323 Gasherbrums 40 Dyhrenfurth, G O 244 Everest 21, 121, 128, 139, 224, 225, 243, 247, Fish glacier 66, 68 Gasperi, Alcide De 229 Dyhrenfurth, Norman 160 248, 252, 254, 286, 289, 290, 334, 338, 339, 377 FitzRoy 408 Gauri Sankar 357, 386 Dyhrenfurth, Oscar 160 1921 reconnaissance expedition 123 Fleet Air Arm 397 Gave Ding (6571m) 3, 4, 5, 8, 321 1922 123 Foinaven Gebauer Schelling, Edwin 300 E 1933 expedition 135, 144 Fishmonger 284 Gebauer Schelling, Heinz 300 Ealing 375 1953 Expedition 368, 371, 387 Fonck, Guy 306 Genecand, Félix-Valentin 246 Ealing Art School 375 1963 American Everest expedition 192 Forbes, Professor 342 Geneva 347 Earhart, Amelia 190 1975 expedition 160 Ford, President Gerald 157 Geographical 230 Earth Science Centre 175 Everest Base Camp 17 Ford, Seth 324 George Mallory Collection 123 East African Standard 369 West Ridge Direct 330 Foreman, George 335 George, Rev H B 163 Eastern Nunatak 117 Everett, Boyd 384 Formin, Mikhail 421, 422 George Watson’s School, Edinburgh 416 Eastman, George 167 Everett, Roger 283 Forsyth, Jamie 393 German Alpine Club (DAV) 244, 253, 310 East of the Himalaya, review 359 Evighedsfjord 103, 106, 107 Fort William 382 168, 248 East Rongbuk glacier 140 Exeter College 255 Fotheringham, Jim 377 Ghosts of K2 (The) 216 Echevarría, Evelio 305 Extreme Eiger, The Race to Climb the Direct Route up Fou, Aiguille du review 350 article: Cordillera Santa Vera Cruz, Bolivia 90 of the Eiger, review 340 American Route 271 Gianetti hut 238 Eckenstein, Oscar 351 Balade au Clair de Lune 271 Giant’s Wall Écrins massif 165, 167, 274 F Fournier, Eric 426 Der Riesenwand 284 Edinburgh 182, 184 Fairbanks 57, 61, 317 Fournier, Vincent 274 Gietl, Simon 275 Edinburgh College of Art 416 Fairley, Rob 1, 21, 53, 71, 99, 121, 147, 179, Fowler, Mick 7, 8, 10, 11, 12, 212, 214, 215, 284, Gifford, Terry 424 Edinburgh University 342 209, 233, 269, 327, 363, 415, 416 321, 421, 422 article: ‘Step in Stone’ 174 Edlinger, Patrick 357 Fairy Cave Quarry 174, 175, 177 article: The First Ascent of Gave Ding 3 Giglio, Nino 222, 223, 224 Edwardes College 257, 264 Fall (The), Simon Mawer 346 206 Gillam glacier 57, 62 Edwards, Arwyn 319 Fanshawe, Andy 212, 214 Francis, ‘Goff’ 399 Gillman, Leni 340, 341 Edwards, Ernest 163 Fantin, Mario 227, 294 Francis, Mark 284 Gillman, Peter 340, 341 Edwards, Menlove 376 Farfarer Peak 114, 116 Freedom Climbers 329 Gilmour, A J 267 Eiger 156, 275, 281, 340, 350 Farmer, Tessa 176 Freeman-Attwood, Julian 6, 321 Giovannini, Diego 276 1938 Route 275, 277 Farnborough 250 Freeman, Barbara 387 Glacial lake outburst floods (GLOFs) 393 Czechoslovakian Pillar 275 Farrel, Katie 319 French Alpine Club (CAF) 349 Glacier de Leschaux 195 Ghilini-Piola 275 Farré, Xavi 315 Frick, Hans 265 Glacier Point 353 La Vida es Silbar 275 Faux, Ronald 339 Frilford Heath 391 Glacier Trust 392, 394 North face 407 Fava, Gabriel 314 Fritz, D 297 Glasgow 343 Odyssee 275 Favresse, Nico 101 Fukada, Kyuya 359 Gleckstein hut 184 442 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 6 I n d e x 2 0 1 6 443

Gleed, Dan 384 Greenwood, Brian 158 Harmer, Polly 318 Himalayan Index 373 Glen Clova 282 Gregson, Jim, article: ‘A Polar Bear had Harrer, Heinrich 61 Himalchuli (7893m) 368, 370 Glencoe 392 Wandered by Unseen’ 110 Harrison, Peggy 145 Hindu Kush 254, 255, 257, 261, 333, 365 Glen Coe Greig, Andrew 416 Harris, Will 318 Hingston, R W G 127 Crowberry Ridge Direct 343 Grenoble 385 Harwich 256 Hinkes, Alan 354 281 Grépon 167, 381, 399 Harwood, John 161 Shadhava Hinks, Arthur 339 Glenmore Lodge 380 Greuvettaz Cirque 274 Hasho Peak 47 Hoeman, Vin 384 Glen Nevis 381 Grey Tower (5435m) 44, 45, 46, 48 Hasho Peak II 47 Hohl, Magdalena 305 Glenshee 380, 382 Grieg’s Piano Concerto in Calcutta 366 Hasselblad 168 Gletscherhorn 265 Griffin, Lindsay 421, 422 Hastings, Geoffrey 167 Hokkaido 359 Glossop 405 article: ‘Alps & Dolomites 2015’ 271 Haston, Dougal 334, 340, 377 Holloway, Cameron 324 Glover, George 342 Griffith, Jonathan 31, 32, 33, 36, 38, 39, 40, 55, Hatun Ulloc, Quebrada Ishinca Holmes, Marjorie 123, 125, 129, 130, 132 Glowacz, Stefan 315 57, 58, 60, 61, 62, 63, 317 Karma de los Cóndores 292 Mallory/Holmes letters 126 Gobbi, Toni 399 Grimsel 182 Hauck, Pedro 311 Holocene era 200, 203 Gogarth 152, 333 Grindelwald 182, 184 Hauser, Caspar 212 Holt, Rob 417, 420 Going Up Is Easy, review 349 Grindley, Ed 154 Hauss, Michael 309 Holway, E W D 267 Gomersall, Sam 284 Groselj, Vicki 331 383 Home Guard 409 Gómez Bohórquez, Antonio 296 Grosser Simelistock Haute Savoie 347 Honey, Bob 384 Gómez Bohórquez, Antonio ‘Sevi’, article: Macdonald-Kamine 395 Hawker, Lizzy 356 Hong Kong 401 Peru 2013-14 291 Grossglockner 386 Hawkshead 374 Hood, Martin 359 Gondogoro pass 44 Grove, Jean 206 Hawley, Elizabeth 150, 290 Hooker, William W 295 Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge 370 Grünegghorn 265 Hawthorn, Uisdean 281, 282, 284, 285 Hope (4780m) 49 Goodeve, Thomas Edward 342 Gspaltenhorn 408 Hayes Range 317 Goodfellow, Basil 394, 396 Guardian Weekly 366 Heald, Nathan Glenn 294, 295, 302, 305, 307, Houseman, Andy 33 Goodfellow, Dr Rob 387 Guido Della Torre 41 308, 309, 310 article: Fever 31 Goodfellow, Terence, obituary 394–397 Guigonnet, Benjamin 298 Heath, Jeff 417 Houston, Charlie 216, 351 Goodwin, Stephen 337, 346 Gulf of Mexico 198 Heen, Arne Randers 418 Howard, Tony 420 Gorakh Kang 321 Gulf Stream 198, 204, 205, 206 Hefti, David 292 Howell, Ian 167, 386 Gornergrat 411 Güner, H 297 Heidegger, Martin 340 Howells, Malcolm 376 Gott, Roger 113, 115, 116, 117 Gurung, Hira Lal 288 Heiligenblut 386 Hoxton Theatre and Education Project 394 Gourdin, Pierre 275 Gustafsson, Veikka 355 Helander, Clint 69 Hoyte, Ralph 176 Gowan, Dakers 61 Guthrie, James 417 Helions Bumpstead 395 Huañacota (4034m) 91, 95 Graham, Peter 65, 67, 68, 283, 317 Guy’s Hospital 390 Helliker, Matt 271, 272, 273, 276 Huaraca (5537m) 300, 303 Graham, Rick and Jenny 69 Gwalior Children’s Hospital 365 Helsby 410 Huaraz 298, 306 Graham, W W 334 Gyachung Kang (7952m) 293 Helyg 402 Huariananta (5400m) 91, 97 Granada Hemmleb, Jochen 246, 253 Tata Raymi 311 H Hendry, Archie 416 Huariananta valley 91, 95 226 Haakon’s Hall 403 Hennessey, Samuel 286, 287 Hudowski, Tadeusz 253 Grand Cornier 393 Haaland, Arild 403 Here, There and Everywhere, Jim Curran 377 Hudson, Rev Charles 243 Grande Casse 395 Habeler, Peter 334 Herford, Siegfried 267 Hudson, William Henry 129 Hadlum, Dez 332 Herrligkoffer, Karl 334 Hughes, Glyn 211, 253, 316, 358 Arête des Hirondelles 399 Hadow, Douglas Robert 243, 244, 252 Herzog, Maurice 249 Humantay Norte (5403m) 309 Colton-MacIntyre 276 Halde valley 44 Heubert, Holger 315 Humar, Tomas 331 Gran Paradiso 399 Hale, Richard 424 Hewett, David 155 Humboldt, Alexander, von 185, 186 Grasmere 372 Hall, Brian 376, 377 Hicks, Eddie 366 Humla 4, 5 Gratton, Horacio 315 Hall, Rob 350 Higgs, Peter 410 Hummel, W 297 Gray, Dennis 157, 332, 357 Hamborgerland 102, 103, 107, 108 High Achiever, Jim Curran 377 Hung, Alberto 305 Great Wall, Clogwyn d’ur Arddu 154 Hamborgerland/Maniitsoq Area 107 High Level: The Alps from End to End, Hunt, John 251, 380 Greece 395, 396 Hamborgerland Sund 104 David Duffield 386 Hurrungane 404 Greenald, Denis 410 Hannibal 206 High Rocks 378 obituary 397–400 Harding, Peter 380, 410 Hillary, Peter 191 Hurry Fjord 113 Greenald, Gwen 399, 400, 410 Harding, Warren 354 Hillary, Sir Edmund 160, 190, 193, 253 Hushe river 44 Greene, Raymond 138 Hare, Jack 325 Himachal Pradesh 320 Hushe valley 44, 45, 47 Greenland 101, 103, 107, 110, 112, 115, 196, Hargreaves, Alison 277 Himalaya 25, 188 Hutton, Steve 319 197, 198, 202, 205, 206, 319, 384, 407, 408 Harlin, John 269, 340, 341, 416 Himalayan Club 251 Hvithorn 116, 117 444 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 6 I n d e x 2 0 1 6 445

I Jaonli 389 Kala Pattar 384 Kingdon-Ward, Frank 360 Iannilli, Roberto 296 Japan 359 Kala Pattar (5545m) 17 Kingham Hill School 367 Ice Age 196, 198 Japanese Imperial Army 359 Kaltenbrunner, Gerlinde 355 King, Owen 321 Iceland 206, 401, 407 Jasper, Robert 275 Kamet (7756m) 267 King’s College, London 410 Idwal 153 Jaun, J 182, 183 Kami hut 366 King’s School, Worcester 145 Idwal Slabs, Cwm Idwal 267 Jenks, William F 305 Kan, Cecilia 325 Kinnaur 377 Charity 267 Jezebel 317 139, 244, 330, 387, 389 Kin of Sal 103, 104 Faith 267 Jezebel East Summit (2880m) 64, 65, 66, 68, 69 Kaprun 385 Kinshofer 423 Hope 267 Jiduc, Sergiu 322 Kap Thorsvalden 104 Kirchlispitze, Rätikon Ihr Herren Berge, G Hauser 295 Jiehkkevárri 390 Karachi 256, 257, 264 Die Unendliche Geschichte 278 Ilford 212 Jija (5513m) 305 Karakol valley 323 Silbergeier 278 Imber, Suzie 318 Jim Durbin 410 398, 399, 410 Kirken (1209m) 408 Imperial College 338, 371 Jirishanca 302 Karakorum Masherbrum : Tagas Klatring 419 Imperial College Caving Club 325 Joly, Jonathan 274 Group The Khane valley 41 Kleine Scheidegg 341, 399 Incahuahin 300 Jomsom 17 Kargil 82, 320 Klitdal 113 4, 73, 89, 365, 400 Jon Bracey 393 Kashgar 411 Knight, Andrew 389 Indian Mountaineering Federation 88 Jones, Ben 288 Kashmir 365, 395 Knightsbridge 123 366 Jones, Chris 395 Kaspar, Hans 265 Knott, Paul 324 Inglis, Andy 282, 284 Jones, Crag 321 Kastelic, Domen 286, 287 Knoydart 284 Ingram, Pat 283 Jones, Ieuan 401 Kathmandu 4, 6, 14, 19, 160, 286, 287 Kodak 167 Ingrams, Bernie 366 Jones MBE, Dr A S G, obituary 400–403 Katkar nala 320 Kogi people 384 Ingrid Baber 116 Jones, Rob 69 Kausch, Máximo 311, 318 Kokbel valley 323 In Some Lost Place, The First Ascent of Nanga Josse, Paul 323, 324 Kazakhstan 81 Koller, Igor 278 Parbat’s Mazeno Ridge, V S Yatsenko 423 Jujuy 311 KE Adventure Travel 13 Kolrud, Helge J 403–404 review 335 Jungfrau 163, 390 Keats, John 342 Kondus valley 40 Institute of Education, London University 394 Juphal 14, 17 Keble College, Oxford 365 Kongur 411 Institute of Nuclear Medicine 410 Jurado Ames, Marco 297 Kelly, Ned 358 König, Marc, article: Hadow’s Sole 243 Interlaken 182 Jurau 300 Kendal Mountain Festival 422 Kor, Layton 341 In the Pamirs: Travel Notes of a Participant in the Jurau B (5727m) Kendal Mountain Film Festival 377, 378 Korlomshe glacier 84, 87, 320 Pamir Alpine Expedition of 1940 74 El Inca, el Cachaco y el Azteca 298 Kennedy, Hayden 421, 422 Korlomshe Tokpo 82, 85, 86, 320 Irvine, Andrew ‘Sandy’ 124, 126, 193, 247, Jurau D (5674m) Kennedy, Steve 320 Korlomshe Tokpo valley 84, 89 337, 339 La Siesta del Bodacious 300 Ken Wilson Collection 153 Koshtan-Tau 167 Isaac Newton school, North Kensington 394 Jurauraju (5335m) Kenya 366, 369 Krakauer, Jon 345 Isakhan 218 Laurapaq 300 Kenya, Mt 156 Kronprins Christian Land 319 Isiolo 369 La Zuppa di Pio 300 Kenya Regiment 367 Kukuczka, Jerzy 237 Islamabad 26, 45 Kerelov, Tervel 44 Kulm Hotel 411 Island Peak (6189m) 384 K Kernick, Will 324 Kunaver, Ales 330, 331 Isle of Man 264 K2 30, 40, 216, 217, 218, 221, 224, 226, 229, Kerr, Dave 284 Kuriki, Nobukazu 290 Israel 157 230, 355 Keswick Museum 389 Kursen 404 Istor-o-Nal 254, 255 K2: Challenging the Sky, Roberto Mantovani 350 Khamlin 47 Kurtyka, Voytek 354, 421, 422 Italia K2, dir Marcello Baldi 227 K2: La Verità: Storia di un casa, Khan, Ali Murad 257, 260, 263, 264 Kurtyka, Wojciech 331 Italian Alpine Club (CAI) 41, 216, 217, 217, 224, 226, 228, 229 Khan, Colonel Ibrahim 259 Kusum Kanguru 179, 417 222, 224, 227, 228, 236, 238, 240, 351 K2: The Price of Conquest, Giovanni Cenacci 224, Khane glacier 49 Kusyabla 84, 86, 87 41, 221, 222, 230, 351 225, 228, 229 Khane river 44, 45 Kyashar 179 Ives, Katie 345 K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain 350 , 377 Khane valley 41, 43, 45, 47, 48, 49, 50, 323 Kyrgyzstan 74, 81, 323, 324 K2, Triumph and Tragedy, Jim Curran 377 Khane village 44, 45 J K2: Una Storia Finite, Luigi Sanzi 217, 225 (7010m) 324 L Jabou Ri (6166m) 289 K6 31, 36, 44, 323 Khaplu 45 La Bérarde 386 Jackson, Bill 369 K6 West (7040m) 323 Kharta valley 144 Labrador Current 205 Jackson, Brian 288 K7 31, 32, 44 Khridas valley 44 LAC 374 Jägihorn 372 Kabul 257 Khumbu glacier 321 Lacedelli, Lino 216–8, 220–1, 224–30, 351 James, Forster Oliver 322 Kagbeni 17 Khurdopin glacier 322 Lachat, Cedric 271 Jamie, Kathleen 416 Kain, Conrad 266, 267 Khyber Pass 257 Lachenal, Louis 249 Jamieson, Murdoch 281, 284 Kaisergebirge Wall 368 Kidall, Sally 176 Lacher, Rolando 279 Jan, Mulai 259, 260, 262 Kakakoram Highway 45 Kilimanjaro 366, 382, 402 La Cordée 421 446 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 6 I n d e x 2 0 1 6 447

Ladakh 82, 320 Liverpool 256, 257 Macquarie, Charles 61 , Ridge 275 Ladhar Beinn Livesey, Pete 154, 357, 420 Macrash Punta (4272m) 300 Padrepio, prega per Tutti 274 Tir na h-aoise 284 Livingstone, Tom 282 Madlehner, Andreas 244 Matt Helliker 393 Ladies’ Alpine Club 267, 370 Llanberis Pass 395 Maestri, Cesare 154 Mau Mau uprising 367 Laffey, Aiden 322 Brant Direct 380 Magdalene College, Cambridge 387 Maurois, André 129 La Grave 420 Kaisergebirge Wall 380 Magnani, Alfredo 314 Mayr, Much 279 Laguna Manallocsec (4050m) 293 Lliwedd Mahdi, Amir 218, 220, 221, 222, 224, 225, Mazeaud, Pierre 223 Laird Cox, Katherine ‘Ka’ 126 Avalanche 388 228, 351 Mazur, Daniel Lee 290 Lake District 372 Lloyd, John 395 Mahoney, Jon 34 McClannan, Kent 296 Lake Geneva 347 Lobsang Spires 173 Mahoney, Kevin 34, 38 McConachie, Bill 320 Lamantia, Tommaso 44 Loch Ailort 416 Mainreachan Buttress McCrea, Tad 69 Lambert, Raymond 250 Loch Moidart 416 Reach for the Sky 284 McDaniel, Duncan 302 Lancaster University 247 Loch Treig 381 Makalu 30, 145, 179, 288, 289, 290, 330 McDonald, Bernadette 329, 330, 331 Lancstuk 116 Lock, Andrew 354 Malakand pass 257 McDonnell, Chris 325 Land’s End 377 Locke, Jake 253 Mallaig 416 McGie, Harry 324 Langmuir, Eric 380, 382 Lombardy 41 Mallory, George 123, 124, 125, 129, 130, McGimpsey, Dave 284, 285 La Paz 95, 186 London 123, 150, 160, 189 132, 191, 246, 247, 337, 339, 343 McKay, Katie 319 La Provincia di Sondrio 242 London School of Economics 397 Mallory/Brooke letters 126 McKeith, Bugs 154, 158 La Reina 384 London University 394 Mallory, Ruth 126, 129, 130 McKellar, Mark 101, 108 La Republica 228, 230 Long, Jeff 344, 345, 346 Manali 388 McLean, William 141, 142, 143, 144 La Rioja 311 Long, John 352, 354 Manaslu (8163m) 26, 288, 289, 290, 321, 330 McLellan, Calum 320 Larsen, Arne 419 Longland, Jack, article: 8 June 1933 135 Manchester 375, 405 McNaught-Davis, Ian 155, 371, 395 Larson, Eric 289 Longridge Peak 116 Mancuso, Jonathan 288 Mearns, Euan, article: ‘The Shrinking Glacier Lates, Mike 284 Longstaff, Tom 110 Maniitsoq 103, 105, 109 Conundrum’ 195 Lauper, Hans 265 Lopez, Camilo 44 Mansikka, Samuli 289 Mease, Jesse 322 Lauterburg, Bernhard 265 Lost Valley Buttress Mantovani, Roberto 230, 351 Meder, Steve 305 Lawrie, Robert 246, 248 Moonshine 282 Maraini, Fosco 264 Medical Directory 184 Lea, David 395 Loughborough 380 Marazzi, Alberto 278 Medieval Warm Period 206 Lear, Edward 416 Lovatt, Jerry 211, 358 Marazzi, Paolo 278 Mehmed, Ali 44 Lee, Donald, obituary 405–406 Lowari pass 257 Marin, Claude 427 Mehmed, Ruhal Ali 44 Leeds 150, 151, 386 Lowe, Jeff 349 Marin, Ramon 283 Mehtar, Chitral 259 Leeds University 150, 386 Lowe, Trystan 101, 103, 108 Mariscal Castilla refuge 291 Meije 420 Leeds University Climbing Club Journal 150–1 Luis, Crispin 302, 305, 308 Mariscal refuge 291 Meiringen 182 Lees, Johnny 399 Lukla 14 Maritime and Coastguard Agency (MCA) 402 Melbourne 380, 381 Legnano 41 Lukpe Barak 410 Marmolada Meldrum, Kim 365 Leh 82, 83, 88, 319, 320 Lukpe Lawo Brak (6593m) 398 40 Anni per il Falier 278 Meligo 47, 48, 50 Lennon, John 334 Lunger, Tamara 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30 Mars 192 Melville, Herman 346 Lerch, Theodor von 359 Lunn, Arnold 265 Marseille 264 Mena Yañez, Esteban 296 Les 348 Lurcher’s Crag Marshall, Robert 217, 224, 227 Mendip Hills 175 Lesslie, Ross 287 Have an Ice Day 282 Marsh, Edward 126 Mendoza 312, 314 Lester, Jim 191, 194 Snowbird 282 Martinelli, Susanna 51 Mendoza, Rodrigo 297 Levski Peak 47, 49 The Force Awakens 282 Martinez de Aguirre, Noel 315 Mercier, Jeff 274 Levski Peak (5733m) 44 Masè, Mirko 277 195, 206, 207, 348 Lewis, Pat 152 M Masherbrum 40, 44 Merker, Ruedi 305 Lewis, Tim 149 MacCarthy, Albert 266 Masino 238 Merrihue, Craig 295 Lewty Peak 116 MacCarthy, Elizabeth 266 Massimiano, Massimo 296 Merry, Wayne 352 Lhotse 289, 330 Macfarlane, Robert 129, 191 Master of Thin Air, review 354 Messner, Günther 29, 30 Libya 367 Machapuchare 372 Mastuj river 259, 260 Messner, Reinhold 29, 193, 217, 222, 223, 230 Lima 305, 306 Machulo 45 Mastuj valley 259 Mestersvig 319 Ling, William Norman 342 MacInnes, Hamish 334 Mathiessen, Peter 17 Mexico 297 Link Sar 31, 33, 34, 36, 38, 39, 40 Mackiewicz, Tomek 26 Matterhorn 165, 171, 236, 243, 267, 281, 342, Meybohm, Henry 61 Link Sar West (6938m) 33, 37, 39 Mackinnon, Tom 287 368, 381, 390, 393 Meyer-Ahrens, Conrad 181 Linton-Lee, Maureen 406 MacLean, Colin 283 Hörnli 390 Meyer, Hermann 244 Lippe, Jack 266 MacLeod, Dave 281, 283 Italian Ridge 390 Miangul Sar 211 Lissy, James 295 MacLeod, Lea 285 Schmid Route 275 Michailov, Michail 44 448 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 6 I n d e x 2 0 1 6 449

Michel, Alexandre 274 Moores, Paul 393 244 Nevado Cunocollo (5560m) 90, 91, 92, 93, Middle-Aged Mountaineer (The), Jim Curran 377 Morales, Habram 306 Munro, Sir Hugh 359 94, 95, 97 Middlesex Hospital 411 Moran, Martin 320 Muratti, Glauco 312, 314 Nevado Ishinca (5530m) Middlesex Hospital, London 410 Morgenthaler, Hans 265 Murray, W H 287 Carlito’s Way 291 Middlesex Mountaineering Club 410 Morino, Stefano 274 Mururaju (5711m) 297 Cosley-Houston 291 Milan 26 Morocco 385 Mustang Himal (6195m) 288 Nevado Puscanturpa Este (5410m) Milankovitch, Milutin 198, 200 Moro, Simone 30 Muzkol range 73, 76, 325 Qiumplirgun Swerminganta 293 Milestone Buttress 389 article: ‘The First Winter Ascent of Nanga Myerscough, Oliver 325 Nevado Ranraplca (6062m) Milledge, James S 412 Parbat’ 23 My Mountains, Walter Bonatti 222 Learning of our Weaknesses 291 article: ‘Stanhope Speer: Early Alpinist and Morton, David 320 Nevado Rasac 302 Pioneer in Mountain Medicine’ 181 Morton, Gus 84, 86, 87, 89, 320 N Nevado Sahuasiray 307 Millerioux, Helias 298 Moscow 81, 256, 257 Nail I (The) (c4500m) 50 Nevado Sajama (6542m) 92 Miller, Tim 324 Mosely, Gina 319 Nails (The) 49 Nevado Shacsha (Shaqsha) South (5697m) Millward, Geoff 399 Moser, Phillip 306 Nairobi 156, 367 Würmligrüber 292 Milne, Alex, article: ‘The Shrinking Glacier Moses, Stainton 184 Naismith, William 342 Nevado Sirijuani (5400m) 308 Conundrum’ 195 Moses, William Stainton 189 Nakaigajutoq (1180m) 104 Nevado Trapecio (5653m) Milne, Frank 266 Moulam, Tony 380 Nakamura, Tamotsu 359, 360 Fernandez-Pita 293 Milner, Douglas 374 Mountain 149, 150, 151, 152, 154, 156, 157, Namche Bazaar 147 Nevado Tunshu 305 Minto House Hospital and Dispensary 182 158, 159, 160, 341 Nanda Devi 160 Nevado Verónica (5682m) 308 Mirrors in the Cliff 158 Mountain Club of Kenya 370 Nanda Devi East (7434m) 320 Nevado Yerupajá 297 Mitteilungen des Deutschen Alpenvereins 248 Mountain Craft 150, 158, 418 Nangamari 1 (6547m) 288 Newby, Paul R T 403 Mitteilungen des Deutschen und Österreichischen Mountaineering Association 405 23, 25, 26, 27, 28, 30, 218, 335, Newfoundland 206 244 Newman, Bernard 150, 151, 152, 155 Alpenvereins Mountaineering Club of South Africa 400, 402 336, 354, 423 Mittelhorn 181, 182, 183, 184, 186 , Newman, Cardinal 185 Mountaineering in Scotland: The Early Years Nangma 44 Moidart 416 review 342 Newman, Deborah 144 Nangma valley 44, 46, 47, 49 Moineville, Antoine 421, 422 Mountain Heritage Trust 372 Newmark, Sam 320 Nardi, Daniele 27 Moioli, Martial 271 Mountain Rescue England & Wales (MREW) New York Times 216 Narmada river 365 Moisés, María José 315 401, 402 New Zealand 266, 325, 349, 391, 401 Narphu Peak (5921m) 288 Mombasa 367, 368 Mountains of my Life (The), Walter Bonatti 217, Nice 385 Nasir, Muhammad Saif-ul-Mulk 259 Mönch 86, 181, 390 224 Nicholls, Tony ‘Nick’ 417, 418 National Board for Prices and Incomes 370 Monfrini, Luca 44 Mountains of the Mind, Robert MacFarlane 191 Niclevicz, Waldemar 309 National Environment Research Council 370 Mont Blanc 160, 163, 182, 187, 236, 243, 271, Mountains, review 361 Nicol, Hamish 372, 399 National Mountaineering Exhibition 372 347, 385, 393, 402 Mount Cook (3764m) 266 Nicolini, Franco 276 National Trust 371, 372, 374 Frêney Pillar 222 Mount Deborah (3761m) 55, 57, 61, 63, 317 Nicoll, Calum 320 National Westminster Bank 405 Peuterey Ridge 11 Mount Everest Committee 145 Nietzsche, Friedrich 340 393 Mount Everest Foundation 5, 69, 89, 255, 316, Nauri Brakk (c3250m) 44 Nikon 168, 169, 171 Supercouloir 407 337, 374 Navarrete, Nicolás 296 Nilgiri 99 Monte Fabbion (2672m) Mount Hayes 317 Negreiros Cerna, Oscar 393 Nisbet, Andrew 320 50 Anni son Volati, 25 Regalati 279 Mount Hulya 117 Neild Bugt 115 Nisbet, Andy 282, 283, 284, 285 Monte Mars 165 Mount Karnak (3399m) Neild Bugt glacier 116 Noda, Masuru 293 Montenvers 163 Howser Spire 267 Neill, Tim 283 Nordend Monte Qualido (2707m) Mount Kenya 366, 367, 378, 402 Nelion 367 Cresta di Santa Caterina 371 King of the Bongo 278 Mount Longstaff (3180m) 267 Nelle Ande del Sud Perù 295 Nordt, Erich 307, 308 371, 385, 390 Mount Louis (2682m) 266 Nelson, Peter 255, 257, 261, 262, 263, 264 Norgay, Tenzing 190, 193, 219, 221,225, 250 Montesano, Ruggero 230 Mount Mighty 111, 116 Nepal 4, 249, 250, 255, 271, 286, 344, 356, Normand, Bruce 322 276 Mount Nevermore 316 370, 391, 392, 393, 416 Norrish, Ted 257 East Pillar Grassi-Meneghin 273 Mount Parofes (5845m) 311 Nepalgunj 3, 4, 5, 14, 19 Norrish, Ted, article: Chitral 1958 254 Filo di Arianna 273 Mount Rainier 384 Nepali government 13, 290, 355 North Cirque glacier 50 Zephyr 273 Mozzati, Marta 278 Nesheim 383 Northern Corries Mont Vert du Greuvettaz Muckle Flugga 377 Nevado Butcher (5960m) 300 Babes in the Wood 282 Carletto Route 274 Mukot Peak (6087m) 13, 14, 15, 19 Nevado Capacsaya 293, 294 Banana Wall 281 Monument Peak (3094m) 267 Mukot village 14 Nevado Caracol (5625m) 294 Pfugga-lule 282 Monypenny, James 73, 74, 76, 79, 80, 81, Mukut Peak 16 Nevado Chicón (5490m) Swallowtail Pillar 282 323, 325 Mumbai 365 Vía del Corazón 306 The Hurting 281 Moore, Malcolm 294 Mummery, Alfred 167 Nevado Colque Cruz 308 Northern Ireland 386 450 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 6 I n d e x 2 0 1 6 451

North Inylchek glacier 324 Oruro 90 Pen y Gwryd Hotel (The): Tales from the Smoke Room Pissis 311, 312 North Khane glacier 46, 48 Osh, Kyrgyzstan 73, 74, 76, 81 387 Pivano, Carlo 308 North Liverpool Land 110, 112, 113, 115, 117 Oslo 403 Percivati, Cintia 315 Piz Badile 238, 407 North Pole 200, 383 Ourom, Anders I 419 Percy, Wyn Harris 139 Cassin Route 277 North Tangra Peak 48 Oxford University 230, 386, 391, 407 Pérez, Carla 296 Piz Cambrena 265 North Triple Peak 316 Oxford University Mountaineering Club 254 Perkins, Andy 1 Pizzo Prata 237 North Wales 375 Perrin, Jim 344, 377 Pizzo Tambò 241 North Wales Mountain Rescue Association 400 P Perry, Karen 310 Plas y Brenin 333, 380 Norton, Edward Felix 124, 127, 128, 130, 131, Paamiut 104 Perry, Steve 282, 284, 285 Plateau Rosa, 411 140, 246 Pacchante 294 Peru 365, 391, 393 Plön, Kiel 384 Norway 277, 383, 386, 390, 402, 418 Pacific Ocean 198 Peshawar 256, 257, 259, 264 Plumpton, Eric 255, 257, 261, 263, 264 Norwegian Alpine Club 404 Padam 82, 83, 84, 85, 88 Peters, Iain 175 Point Dutton 366 Norwegian Association of Dairy Farmers 404 Padilha, Edmilson 315 Petit Capucin 386 Point Lenana 366, 382 Norwegian Bar Association 404 Pagel, David 423 Petite 393 Pokhara 17 254, 255 Pagov glacier 324 Petit, Marie 409 Polidori, Walter 44 Nottingham 332, 386 Pakistan 31, 44, 254, 259 Petkov, Nicolay 44 Polidori, Walter, article: ‘Khane Valley, Nottingham Climbers Club 332 Pakistan Karakoram 322 Petrocelli, Adrían 313 Karakoram’ 41 Novak, Skip 321 Palestine 367 Petrov, Boyan 290 Pollard, Andy 388 Novak, Urban 421, 422 Pettigiani, Giorgio 308 Polo, Pio 300 Novate 238 Palmer, Howard 267 Pamirs 262 Pettigrew, Bob 332 Pope Leo XIII 236 Novosibirsk 81 Peuterey Intégral 373 Porcellizzo pass 240 Noyce, Wilfred 372 Panama Isthmus 198 Pfaff, Anna 44 Porter, John 331, 377, 378, 423 Nuffield Foundation 410 Pang La 128 Physical Phenomena Popularly Classed Under the article: ‘The Mountain World of Nugara, Emanuele 44 Parabiago 41 Head of Spiritualism (The) 189 Ken Wilson’ 149 Nugent, Peter 323, 324 Paragot, Robert 226 Pibchu 85 Portocarrero, Guillermo 305 Nunarssuit 109 Paris 338 Piccolo, Agustín 311 Portsmouth 397 Nunn, Paul 152, 154, 375, 377 Parkin, Andy 421, 422 Pic d’Aneto 388 Poulter, Ed 319 Nuru, Lhakpa 336 Parliament House Cave 333 Pickford, Lord Justice 267 Powell, Mark 353, 354 Nuuk 101, 104, 109 Parnell, Ian 282, 284 Pico Cristóbal Colón (5700m) 384 Pralong, Yannick 393 Nyeri Station 369 Parsons, Mike 246, 253 Pico de los Zondinos (4850m) Prà, Romilda del 241 Parvex, Aike 315 Dioses del Ocaso 314 Predarossa 242 O Patagonia 67, 198, 318, 352, 372, 391, 408 Pico (or Cerro) de la Fortuna (5493m) 90, 91, Pré de Madame Carlé 274 Ober Grindelwald glacier 183 Patent Etui 168 93, 97 Prem, Josef 92, 95 Observer (The) 150 Patey, Tom 159, 358, 423 Pico de la Fortuna in 1999 91 Prentice, Tom 274 Ockham 365 Patiala 365 Picos de Europa 406 Preston, Jonathan 301 O’Dowd, Cathy 336 Pattersen, Leif Norman 418, 419, 420 Ogoronwy 396 Pic Sans Nom (3913m) Prezelj, Marko 331, 421, 422 Pauler, Gerda 16, 17, 18 George-Russenberger Route 274 Price, Martin F 361 Ogre 322, 334 Peak District 160, 332 Ogre (The) 44 Le Prestige des Écrins 274 Price, Peter 402 Pearson, Billy 322 Ogwen Valley 402 Raie des Fesses 274 PricewaterhouseCoopers 387 Pearson, Lucy 156 Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue Organisation Pictet, Marc-Auguste 185 Prinoth, Titus 278 Pearson, Mike 156 (OVMRO) 360, 400, 401, 402 Pidurutalagala (2524m) 410 Pritchard, Gareth 402 Peck, Trevor 358 O’Hanlon, James 325 Pigne 390 Probst, Marcel 292 Peddie, Alexander 182 O’Keeffe, Georgia 65, 68 Pik Lenin (7134m) 334 Proceso al K2 224 Pedeferri, Simone 278 Olafsson, Ragnar 117 Pileur, Dr Le 186 Pucapunta (5740m) 294 Old Dungeon Ghyll 405 Pedra Riscada Pilkington brothers 342 Puchoz, Mario 230 377 Place of Happiness 315 Pinciroli, Maurizio 51 Pugh, Griffith 250 Oliver, Gabriel 323, 324 Viaje de Cristal 315 Pineda Beyer, Carlos Esteban 291 Pulaski, Thomas 305 Once Upon A Climb, review 357 Pellissier, Manu 421, 422 Pineda, Carlos E 291 Punta Torelli 238, 242 One Day as a Tiger: Alex MacIntyre and the Birth Pellizzari, Emanuele 278 Pinelli, Carlo 264 Purcell range 266, 267 of Light and Fast Alpinism, John Porter 423 Pembroke Rock, review 361 Pinney, Phil 383 Pye, David 130 One Hundred Mountains of Japan, review 359 Penberthy, Larry 334 Pinto, Beto 297, 298 Pyramid du Tacul One Man’s Mountains, 423 165 Pinto Toledo, Beto 306 Le Ronfleur Paradoxal 272 Oriol, Baró 314, 315 Pensilungpa valley 82 Piolets d’Or 336, 420 Pyramid Peak 68 Ortler Alps 395 Pen y Gwryd 387, 395 Piriz, Roberto 314 Pyrenees 375, 385, 386, 391, 406 452 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 6 I n d e x 2 0 1 6 453

Q Riley, Tony 376, 377 Russell, Adam 285 Schleswig-Holstein 384 Quebrada Ishinca 291 Ripley, Tom 69, 318 Russell, C A, article: ‘One Hundred Years Ago’ Schmidt, Edy 253 Quebrada Queshque 297 Risking Life and Limb, review 360 265 Schmil, P 297 Quesillo (5600m) Riva, Franco 308 Russell, Douglas 283, 285 Schnabel, Arthur 338 El Malefico Sefkow 301 Riva Roveda, Dominique 293 Russia 81 Schneefernerkopf, Quilluhirka (5047m) Rizzi, Anne-Marie 154 Ruttledge, Hugh 138, 145 Optimist 279 El sueño de los Excluidos 296 Rjukan festival, Norway 277 Ruwenzori 367 Schnyder, Walter 300 El Sueño de los Excluidos 296 Robbins, Royal 334, 341 Ryan, Thomas 294, 295 Schuster 244 Italian Route 296 Roberts, Bill 255, 256, 257, 262, 263, 264 Schwaiger 244 La Teoría de la Gota de Agua 296 Robertson, David 129 S Schwenkglenks, D 297 Sueño 296 Robertson, Guy 284 Saas Fee 383 Scoglio delle Matamorfosi 277 Quime 95 Rochefort Ridge 399 Sadpara, Muhammad Ali 27, 28, 29, 30 Here Today, Gone Tomorrow 277 Quincey, Duncan 321 Rock Climbers in Action in Snowdonia, review 352 Sagtogpa glacier 319 Io non ho Paura 278 Quine, Robin 366 Röcker, R 297 Sakamoto, Kimikazu 84 Luna Nascente 278 Quispe, Luis Crispín 294, 295 Rockies 266, 267 Sakya, Karna 17 Scoresby Sund 113 Rock Queen, review 349 Salathé, John 353, 354 Scotland 101, 106, 107, 156, 360 R Roderick, Paul 69 Salathé Wall 334 Scott, Doug 149, 151, 158, 230, 287, 332 Rab 69 Rogers, Nigel 254, 255, 257, 263, 264 Sale, Richard 351 Scottish Mountaineering Club 343, 361 Racine, Tanguy 325 Rohtang La 388 Salcantay (6279m) 295 Scott, Jan 333 Raeburn, Harold Andrew 342 Roisbheinn 327, 416 Salkeld, Audrey 155 Scott, Malcolm 69 RAF Leeming 384 Roit, Armando da 230 Salzburg 385 Scott, Michael 333 RAF Mountain Rescue Association 402 Rojas, Seba 315 Sánchez, Javier 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 96 Scott, Robert Falcon 351 RAF Valley 402 Rolliflex 168 Sangmissoq 103 Scrambles Amongst the Alps 338 RAI Uno 225 Rolwaling 286, 289 Sangmissoq Buttress 107 Seaton, Alex 325 Rakaposhi (7788m) 371 Roman Empire 206 San Mateo 305 Seattle 334 Ramsden, Paul 3, 6, 8, 10, 11, 12, 321, 421, 422 Romeike, Chris 306 San Roque (5300m) 91 Seiler, Dr Alexander 265 Rangdu, Lhakpa 336 Romsdal 418, 419 Santa Vera Cruz (5560m) 90, 93 Sella 378 Rannoch Summit 382 Rongbuk glacier 21 Sanzi, Luigi 225, 230 Sella, Vittorio 164, 165, 168, 351 Ratto, Fulvio 308 Rongdo valley 319 Sao Jose do Divino 315 Sepp, Martina 253 Ravaschietto, Cesare 275 Rongli 131 Saraghrar (7349m) 255, 257, 260 Sepu Kangri 377 Read, Alistair 402 Rose, Gerald 367, 368 Sardinia 347 Seven Dwarfs 115, 117 Reeve, Andy 318 Rose, Mary B 246, 253 Saronno 41 Sgurr a’Mhadaidh Reid, Bruce 383 Rosenhorn 182, 390 Sarth-An pass 261 Icicle Factory 285 Reisach, Hermann 93 Rosenlaui 183, 184 Sartre, Jean-Paul 340 Spectacula 285 Rennard, Helen 282 Rosh Gol 259, 261 Sass dla Crusc Spirulina 285 Renshaw, Dick 156, 305 Rotherham Art College 375 Mephisto 279 Sgurr Mhic Choinnich Requin hut 271 Rouse, Al 154 Sasso Manduino 237 Crack of Dawn 284 Reru valley 84 Rouse, Alan 377, 411 Sauget, Pierre 274 Sgùrr nan Gillean 342, 391 Revelation glacier 68, 317 Rowan, Ann 321 Saunders, Ben 191 Sgurr Thearlaich Revelation mountains 64, 66, 67 Royal Aircraft Establishment 250 Saunders, Victor 284, 358, 421, 422 Mr Charlie 284 Revest, Robin 298, 299 Royal Air Force 384, 385 article: Seconds Out 211 The Bogeyman 284 Revol, Elisabeth 26 Royal Air Force College 384 Saussure, Horace-Bénédict, de 185, 186, 188 Shackleton, Lord 383 Reykjavik 113 Royal Court Theatre 386 Sauvy, Anne 344, 345 Shebbeare, Edward 143 Rey, Ubaldo 217 Royal Field Artillery 338 Sazanov, Tone 330 Sheffield 375, 376 Rheinwaldhorn 385 Royal Geographical Society 123, 247, 255, 316, Scafell Shelley, Percy Bysshe 129, 130 Richards, I A 267 339, 370, 374 Central Buttress 267 Shelter Stone Richardson, Simon 274, 282, 283 Royal Marines 390 Scanu, Marcelo, article: Argentina & Chile 311 The Needle 282, 283 article: ‘Scottish Winter 2015-16’ 280 Royal Medical Society 182 Scappatura, Ivo 296 Shepton, Rev Bob, article: ‘Tilman Must Richardson, Tom 13, 14 Royal Photographic Society 167 Scaramellini, Guido 240 Never Die’ 101 article: ‘Mukot Peak’ 13 Rubel, Ekke 305 Schacsha Sur (5697m) 296 Sherborne 390 Richmond, George 417 Rucklidge, Miles 264 Schäli, Roger 275 Sherpa, Ang Phurba 287 Ricker, John F 294 Rudatis, Alessandro 278 Schauer, Robert 421 Sherpa Dawa 15 Ridley, Norman 385 Rudolf Steiner movement 394 Schick, Mathias 292 Sherpa Dorji 15 Rieser, Luggi 279 Runner, review 356 Schiera, Luca 278 Sherpa, Pema 289 Rila Peak 44, 47, 48 Ruskin, John 426 Schiestl, Reinhard 279 Shimshal village 322 454 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 6 I n d e x 2 0 1 6 455

Shipton, Eric 136, 138, 139, 141, 142, 143, 144, Smythe, Tony 352 Stoney Middleton 375 Teigland, Jon 418, 420 145, 158, 250, 255, 371 Snowblind: Stories of Alpine Obsession, Store Skagastølstind 404 Temasa nala 84, 85, 87, 88 Shishapangma 30 Daniel Arnold 423 Stowe School 370 Temple (5947m) 83 Shona Beag 416 Snowdon St Petersburg 256 Temple, John 369 Shone, Robbie 319 Cwm Glas 403 St Petersburg State University 407 Tennent, Norman 308 Shoreditch 394 Snowdonia 170, 333, 387, 394, 396, 398, 400 Stubai Alps 402 Terray, Lionel 346 Shorsa Tower I (c4900m) 47, 49 Snowdonia Society 382 Sullivan, Jerome 421, 422 The Cobbler Shorsa Tower II 46 Snowdon, Vaughan 324 Sunday Times 340 Southern Freeze 282 Shorter, John 154 Sofia 49 Suru river 82 The Cuillin, Skye 284, 285, 342, 358, 390, 405 Shrewsbury 409 Sofia Peak 46, 47 Survey of Kenya 369 Griffin 285 Shukpa Kunchang glacier 319 Solda, Gino 230 Suspended Sentences, Jim Curran 377 Inaccessible Icefall (The) 285 Shyok river 45 Solé Perozo, Carlos Eduardo 291 Susten Pass 265 Skyefall 285 Siberia 207 Somers, Dermot 344, 345 Sutoc (c3750m) 293 The Maverick Mountaineer, The Remarkable Life Sierra del Aliste (5167m) 314 Sommerschield, Kim, article: ‘The Priest Sutton, Doug 284 of George Ingle Finch: Climber, Scientist, Inventor, Sierralta Infante, Jack 297 Who Disappeared’ 235 Sutton, Geoff 332 review 337 Sierra Nevada (6137m) 312 Søndre Sermilik Fjord 384 Sutton, James 284, 285 Theodul Pass 411 Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta 384 Sondrestrom 384 Svalbard 205 Theytaz, Théophile 265 Signorelli, Luca 230 Songuta Glacier 164 Svensmark, Henrik 206 ‘This Is Your Life’ 401 Sikkim 131 South Africa 265, 400 Swanage 395 Thomas, Mark 320 Silver, Neil 284 Southampton 398 Swanbourne House 390 Thompson, Pete 322 Silvestre, Ben 68, 317 Southampton University 391 Swat, Pakistan 254 Thomson, Mrs Jane 266 article: ‘The Trouble with Happiness’ 64 Three Guineas 132 South Downs 412 Swat valley, Pakistan 211 Simari, Diego 311, 421 Sweet, Michael 319 Three Stooges 151 Southern Alps 266 Simikot 3, 4, 6 Swenson, Steven 323 Tibesti 333 South Pole 198, 351 Simla 388 Swienton, Paul 320 Tibet 5, 6, 21, 377, 411 Souvenirs Pittoresques des de Chamouny, Simone, Moro 29 Swift, Heather 324 Tietjen, Simon 282 review 346 Simon, François 426 Swiss Federal Institute of Technology 407 Tilbury 256 Spain 94 Simon, Jean 426 Switzerland 191, 250, 265 Tilman, H W 106, 158, 360 Spanglab Brakk 47 Simpson, Hugh 305 Sydbreen 390 Times Atlas 254 Spantik 26 Simpson, Joe 345 Times Educational Supplement 366 Speer, Catherine 182 Sim, Will 317 T Timothy, Taylor 322 Speer, Charlton 189 article: ‘Degrees of Faith’ 55 Table Mountain (1087m) 265 Tirich Mir 254, 255 Speer, Maria, née Eves 182 Singh Gurung, Tul 288 Grootkop Buttress 265 Tocallaraju 393 Speer, Stanhope T 181, 182, 183, 184, 185, Singh, Kishen 360 Kleinkop Buttress 265 Todd, Henry 417 Singh, Malkeet ‘Maly’ 85, 87 187, 188 Tackle Climbing this Way 382 Tokyo 169, 359 Singu Chapta 44 Speer, Thomas 182 Tagas valley 45, 48 Tondini, Nicolas 278 Sisimiut 101 Spirit of Man (The), ed Robert Bridges 129 Tague, Cameron 296 Tønsberg, Knut 83, 84, 86, 87, 89, 320 Siulá (6344m) 297 Spiti 388 Tairraz, Joseph 163 Too Close to God 346 Siulá Chico (6265m) 298 Sports Council 157, 380 Tajikistan 73, 74, 80, 325 review 344 Looking for the Void Spregh Yaz valley 322 Takada 359 Toon, Richard 113, 115, 116 Siulá Grande 297, 304 Srinagar 82 Talkeetna 316, 317 Torelli 240 Skardu 45 Sron Ulladale 333 Talkeetna Air Taxis 69 Torino, Carlos 311 Skye 390 Stanger, John 420 Talung 422 Torre Blanca de Ectelion Slieve League 358 Stauning Alper 113 Tanase, Mihai 230 Jumanji 311, 314 Slingsby, Morris 267 St Birinus Pilgrimage 391 Tangra Tower (5620m) 48, 49, 323 Torre del Lago Slome, Dan 319 St-Christophe-en-Oisans 421 Tanzania 366 South-West Ridge 390 Slovenia 329, 330 Steck, Ueli 276 Tasker, Joe 154, 156, 377, 411 Torre Principal Slovenian Mountaineering Association 331 Steiner, Rudolf 396 Tasmania 391 Nalgas de Loncho 314 Small, Iain 281, 282, 284 Steven, Guy 284 Tatajaico (5342m) Torres, Juancho 311, 314 Smith, Dr Nathan, article: ‘The Exploration St Gervais 348 A Puro Huevo 305 Torre Venezia, Civetta Tribe’ 190 St John’s College, Oxford 255, 263 Tate, James 410 Rondo Veneziano 278 Smith, John 285 St Kilda 377 Tatina glacier 316 Tosas, Jordi 298 Smith, Robin 376, 416 Stob Coire nan Lochan 31 Taurus, Turkey 383 Smythe, Frank 136, 138, 139, 141, 142, 143, Unicorn 282 Tawoche 417 Chancer 276 144, 145, 168 Stonehaven 382 Technical University of Catalonia 407 Night Fever 271 456 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n a l 2 0 1 6 I n d e x 2 0 1 6 457

Tour Rouge 381 Usquiano, José 305 Watts, Chris 285 Wright, Mark 319 Tower, Muztagh 416 UTMB 356 Wayfarers 405 Wyn Harris, Percy 136, 140, 142, 143, 144 Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis 53 W C Slingsby 404 Trango 378 V Wear, Ben 285 X Trango: The Nameless Tower, Jim Curran 376 Valchiavenna 238 Webb, Roger 274, 284 Xinjiang 411 Trango Towers 349 Val Codera 238, 240, 241 Weber, W 297 Travaglia, Giorgio 278 Val di Mello 277 Weidlich, Cleo 27 Y Traverse Theatre, Edinburgh 386 Val d’Isère 410 Weir, Tom 287 Yamanoi, Yasushi 293 Tre Cime di Lavaredo Valla, Rick La 402 Weisshorn 162 Yanert glacier 61, 317 Spanish Route 279 Vallata, Luca 300, 301 Weld, Charles Richard 342 Yatsenko, V S 74, 76 Triglav 329, 330 Vallée Blanche 271 Wellenkuppe 388 Yearsley, Simon 284 Cop’s Pillar 330 Valley Uprising, dir Peter Mortimer et al 352 Westmacott, Mike 254 Yeats, William Butler 241 Trincomalee 410 Vallot refuge 411 West Midlands Joint Electricity Authority 409 Yerupajá (6617m) 297 Trinidad (5360m) 91, 97 Val Porcellizzo 238 Westminster Hospital 391 Yerupajá glacier 302 Troll Wall 417, 419 Vanoise 395 Weston, Walter 359 Yerupajá Grande 297 Rimmon Route 420 Vaughan, Pat 399 West Virginia 386 Yerupajá Grande (6634m) 302, 305 Tromsdorff, Christian 421 Venables, Stephen 175, 423 Wetterhorn 181, 182, 186 Yerupaja Sur (6515m) 302 Trudel, Alexis 310 Venier, John 323, 324 Wetterhorn Hotel 184 Yerupajé South 300 Tsacra Grande (5774m) 301 Verdeguer, Carlos 305 Wetterkessel glacier 183 York 386 Tsarap river 321 406 Where Four Worlds Meet, Fosco Maraini 264 Yorkshire Mountaineering Club 361 Tunshu Sur (5420m) Vignemale 388 Whillans, Don 334, 341, 357 Yosemite 333, 334, 352, 354 , review 352 Mel & Lies 306 Villiger, Ralph, obituary 406–409 White, Christina 175 Yosemite in the Fifties: The Iron Age Turc, Marie-Claude 421 White, Peter 389 Ysgolion Duon 358 Viney, Dick 372 Turin 228 Whiteside, Judy 360 Yugoslavia 329 Virjerab glacier 322 Turner, Mike ‘Twid’ 316 Whittaker, Jim 194 Vislie, Ødegaard & Kolrud 403 Turner, Samuel 266 Whymper, Edward 243, 338, 342, 424 Z Vola, Eric, article: ‘Walter Bonatti and Turtagrø, Jotunhrim, Norway 404 Wibmer, F 297 Zaiacomo, Matteo de 278 The Ghosts of K2’ 216 Tvedestrand 404 Wiessner, Fritz 244, 351 Zangerl, Barbara 278 Vonk, Darren 69 Tweedale, Bill 417, 418, 419 Wilder Kaiser 191 Zanskar 82, 89 Vorder Tierberg 265 Twins 50 Wild, Finlay 284 Zanskar river 82, 83 Voyages dans les Alpes 186 Twins (The) 47 Wilkinson, Dave 284, 305 Zaplotnik, Nejc 330, 331 Txicon, Alex 27, 28, 29, 30 Williams, Edward 398 Zappa, Antonio 308 Tyers, Rhys 325 W Williams, Professor Edward Sydney 409–412 Zardini, Ruggero 278 Wackerhage, Henning 282, 283 Tyson, John 372 Williams, William Carlos, obituary 329 Zarok, Lhakpa 336 Wager, Lawrence ‘Waggers’ 136, 138, 139, 140, Wilson, David 411 Zawada, Andrzej 25 U 142, 143, 144, 145 Wilson, Guy 317 Zegers, Andrés 315 UIAA 404 Wainwright, Robert 337, 338, 339 Wilson, Ken 149, 151, 152, 154, 155, 156, 157, 381, 395, 405 Ukraine 422 Wakhan Corridor 365 158, 161, 424 Zhanybaev, Akilbek 76 Ullswater Outward Bound 365 Wala, Jerzy 41 Wilson, Michael 395, 396 Zimmerman, Graham 323 Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc (UTMB) 356 Wales 158, 175 Winnie-the-Pooh 388 Zinal Rothorn 388, 390 University College of Wales 400 Walker, Lucy 267 Winthrop Young, Geoffrey 267 Zippert, Christian 265 University of Derby 319 Walker, Paul 113 Wohileben, Michael 279 Zmutt Ridge 369 University of Leicester 318 Wallace, William 305 Wolfe, Dudley 351 Zundrangam 261, 264 University of Ulster 386 Wallasey 405 Woodcock, Margaret 417 Zürich 406 Unterwurzacher, Guido 279 Wall, Ian, article: Nepal 286 Wood-Johnson, George 138 Zwahlen, Florian 292 Up and About: The Hard Road to Everest 149, 158 Wallingford, Oxfordshire 391 Wood, Ray 354 review 332 Wall (The) 345 Wood, Rob 158 Upper Gillam glacier 317 Walpoth, Alex 278 Woolf, Virginia 123, 125, 130, 132 Uppingham School 365 Walter Bonatti: Il fratello che non sapevo di avere, Worsfold, Stewart 320 Urquizo Cereceda, Manuel 293 217 Worsfold, Stuart 84, 89 Urubko, Denis 26 Ward, Emily 74, 76, 79, 80, 81, 324, 325 Worsley, Peter 395 USA 41 Ward, Mike 411 Wragg, Martin 156, 423, 424 USAF Pararescue 401 Warwick 73 Wrangham, Ted 371, 399 Uschione 236, 238, 241 Waters, Ryan 289 Wright, J E B 418 Ushba 408 Watson, Scott 321 Wright, Marguerite 349