Catalogue 51: Oct 2014
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Charles Pickles (Presidenl 1976-1978) the FELL and ROCK JOURNAL
Charles Pickles (Presidenl 1976-1978) THE FELL AND ROCK JOURNAL Edited by TERRY SULLIVAN No. 66 VOLUME XXIII (No. I) Published by THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT 1978 CONTENTS PAGE Cat Among the Pigeons ... ... ... Ivan Waller 1 The Attempt on Latok II ... ... ... Pal Fearneough 1 The Engadine Marathon ... ... ... Gordon Dyke 12 Woubits - A Case History ... ... ... Ian Roper 19 More Shambles in the Alps Bob Allen 23 Annual Dinner Meet, 1976 Bill Comstive 28 Annual Dinner Meet, 1977 ... ... Maureen Linton 29 The London Section ... ... ... Margaret Darvall 31 High Level Walking in the Pennine Alps John Waddams 32 New Climbs and Notes ... ... ... Ed Grindley 44 In Memoriam... ... ... ... ... ... ... 60 The Library ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 76 Reviews ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 82 Officers of the Club 117 Meets 119 © FELL AND ROCK CLIMBINO CLUB PRINTED BY HILL & TYLER LTD., NOTTINGHAM Editor T. SULLIVAN B BLOCK UNIVERSITY PARK NOTTINGHAM Librarian IReviews MRS. J. FARRINGTON UNIVERSITY LIBRARY BAILRIGG LANCASTER New Climbs D. MILLER 31 BOSBURN DRIVE MELLOR BROOK BLACKBURN LANCASHIRE Obituary Notices R. BROTHERTON SILVER BIRCH FELL LANE PENRITH CUMBRIA Exchange Journals Please send these to the Librarian GAT AMONG THE PIGEONS Ivan Waller Memory is a strange thing. I once re-visited the Dolomites where I had climbed as a young man and thought I could remember in fair detail everywhere I had been. To my surprise I found all that remained in my mind were a few of the spect• acular peaks, and huge areas in between, I might never have seen before. I have no doubt my memory of events behaves in just the same way, and imagination tries to fill the gaps. -
The Eiger Myth Compiled by Marco Bomio
The Eiger Myth Compiled by Marco Bomio Compiled by Marco Bomio, 3818 Grindelwald 1 The Myth «If the wall can be done, then we will do it – or stay there!” This assertion by Edi Rainer and Willy Angerer proved tragically true for them both – they stayed there. The first attempt on the Eiger North Face in 1936 went down in history as the most infamous drama surrounding the North Face and those who tried to conquer it. Together with their German companions Andreas Hinterstoisser and Toni Kurz, the two Austrians perished in this wall notorious for its rockfalls and suddenly deteriorating weather. The gruesome image of Toni Kurz dangling in the rope went around the world. Two years later, Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek managed the first ascent of the 1800-metre-high face. 70 years later, local professional mountaineer Ueli Steck set a new record by climbing it in 2 hours and 47 minutes. 1.1 How the Eiger Myth was made In the public perception, its exposed north wall made the Eiger the embodiment of a perilous, difficult and unpredictable mountain. The persistence with which this image has been burnt into the collective memory is surprising yet explainable. The myth surrounding the Eiger North Face has its initial roots in the 1930s, a decade in which nine alpinists were killed in various attempts leading up to the successful first ascent in July 1938. From 1935 onwards, the climbing elite regarded the North Face as “the last problem in the Western Alps”. This fact alone drew the best climbers – mainly Germans, Austrians and Italians at the time – like a magnet to the Eiger. -
Insight September 2019
Monthly Newsletter September 2019 September INSIDE THIS ISSUE The Art of Global Warming IFRS Survey Results 2 UPCOMING EVENTS Environment 3-4 IFRS17 Program Update Forum Technology 5 Sunsystems Q&A Webinar Millennium News 6-8 Economy 9-10 1 IFRS17 PROGRAM UPDATE SURVEY During July and August 2019, an online survey was conducted by Millennium Consulting which asked international insurance companies questions about their IFRS 17 compliance programs. Participants. Participants included Finance Directors, Chief Actuaries, IT Directors and Senior Risk Managers. Participating regions. A large response was received from insurers in the following countries: UK, Netherlands, Germany, Ireland, Switzerland, Morocco, Mexico, Hong Kong, China, Thailand, Taiwan and Australia. Significant outcomes • As expected, IFRS 17 compliance was identified as being primarily the responsibility of the Finance department although 47% of the responses suggested that it was a joint Finance, Actuarial, IT, Risk and Underwriting responsibility. • Compliance is managed centrally by almost 70% of the participants with only 28% having autonomy to implement their own local solutions. • 9% of respondents indicated that pure IFRS 17 compliance was their primary goal whilst 36% stated it was a catalyst for a broader Finance Transformation program. • 31% of the respondents reported that their IFRS 17 implementations were underway whereas 39% were still working on the detailed design. • Confidence in achieving IFRS 17 compliance within the current time scales is high with only 9% suggesting it would not be possible. • SAS was identified as the most popular technology for CSM calculation with 17% of the respondents having selected it. • The primary area of concern relates to data with 20% identifying data integration as of greatest concern. -
Volume 30 # October 2014
Summit ridge of Rassa Kangri (6250m) THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER l Volume 30 October 2014 CONTENTS Climbs and Explorations Climbs and Exploration in Rassa Glacier ................................................. 2 Nanda Devi East (7434m) Expedition 204 .............................................. 7 First Ascent of P6070 (L5) ....................................................................... 9 Avalanche on Shisha Pangma .................................................................. 9 First Ascent of Gashebrum V (747m) .....................................................0 First Ascent of Payu Peak (6600m) South Pillar ......................................2 Russians Climb Unclimbed 1900m Face of Thamserku .........................3 The Himalayan Club - Pune Section The story of the club’s youngest and a vibrant section. ..........................4 The Himalayan Club – Kolkata Section Commemoration of Birth Centenary of Tenzing Norgay .........................8 The Himalayan Club – Mumbai Section Journey through my Lense - Photo Exhibition by Mr. Deepak Bhimani ................................................9 News & Views The Himalayan Club Hon. Local Secretary in Kathmandu Ms. Elizabeth Hawley has a peak named after her .................................9 Climbing Fees Reduced in India ............................................................. 22 04 New Peaks open for Mountaineering in Nepal ................................ 23 Online Show on Yeti ............................................................................... -
Catalogue 48: June 2013
Top of the World Books Catalogue 48: June 2013 Mountaineering Fiction. The story of the struggles of a Swiss guide in the French Alps. Neate X134. Pete Schoening Collection – Part 1 Habeler, Peter. The Lonely Victory: Mount Everest ‘78. 1979 Simon & We are most pleased to offer a number of items from the collection of American Schuster, NY, 1st, 8vo, pp.224, 23 color & 50 bw photos, map, white/blue mountaineer Pete Schoening (1927-2004). Pete is best remembered in boards; bookplate Ex Libris Pete Schoening & his name in pencil, dj w/ edge mountaineering circles for performing ‘The Belay’ during the dramatic descent wear, vg-, cloth vg+. #9709, $25.- of K2 by the Third American Karakoram Expedition in 1953. Pete’s heroics The first oxygenless ascent of Everest in 1978 with Messner. This is the US saved six men. However, Pete had many other mountain adventures, before and edition of ‘Everest: Impossible Victory’. Neate H01, SB H01, Yak H06. after K2, including: numerous climbs with Fred Beckey (1948-49), Mount Herrligkoffer, Karl. Nanga Parbat: The Killer Mountain. 1954 Knopf, NY, Saugstad (1st ascent, 1951), Mount Augusta (1st ascent) and King Peak (2nd & 1st, 8vo, pp.xx, 263, viii, 56 bw photos, 6 maps, appendices, blue cloth; book- 3rd ascents, 1952), Gasherburm I/Hidden Peak (1st ascent, 1958), McKinley plate Ex Libris Pete Schoening, dj spine faded, edge wear, vg, cloth bookplate, (1960), Mount Vinson (1st ascent, 1966), Pamirs (1974), Aconcagua (1995), vg. #9744, $35.- Kilimanjaro (1995), Everest (1996), not to mention countless climbs in the Summarizes the early attempts on Nanga Parbat from Mummery in 1895 and Pacific Northwest. -
Les Clochers D'arpette
31 Les Clochers d’Arpette Portrait : large épaule rocheuse, ou tout du moins rocailleuse, de 2814 m à son point culminant. On trouve plusieurs points cotés sur la carte nationale, dont certains sont plus significatifs que d’autres. Quelqu’un a fixé une grande branche à l’avant-sommet est. Nom : en référence aux nombreux gendarmes rocheux recouvrant la montagne sur le Val d’Arpette et faisant penser à des clochers. Le nom provient surtout de deux grosses tours très lisses à 2500 m environ dans le versant sud-est (celui du Val d’Arpette). Dangers : fortes pentes, chutes de pierres et rochers à « varapper » Région : VS (massif du Mont Blanc), district d’Entremont, commune d’Orsières, Combe de Barmay et Val d’Arpette Accès : Martigny Martigny-Combe Les Valettes Champex Arpette Géologie : granites du massif cristallin externe du Mont Blanc Difficulté : il existe plusieurs itinéraires possibles, partant aussi bien d’Arpette que du versant opposé, mais il s’agit à chaque fois d’itinéraires fastidieux et demandant un pied sûr. La voie la plus courte et relativement pas compliquée consiste à remonter les pentes d’éboulis du versant sud-sud-ouest et ensuite de suivre l’arête sud-ouest exposée (cotation officielle : entre F et PD). Histoire : montagne parcourue depuis longtemps, sans doute par des chasseurs. L’arête est fut ouverte officiellement par Paul Beaumont et les guides François Fournier et Joseph Fournier le 04.09.1891. Le versant nord fut descendu à ski par Cédric Arnold et Christophe Darbellay le 13.01.1993. Spécificité : montagne sauvage, bien visible de la région de Fully et de ses environs, et donc offrant un beau panorama sur le district de Martigny, entre autres… 52 32 L’Aiguille d’Orny Portrait : aiguille rocheuse de 3150 m d’altitude, dotée d’aucun symbole, mais équipée d’un relais d’escalade. -
Working in Partnership with the People of the Himalaya 2018/2019
Working in partnership with the people of the Himalaya ANNUAL REPORT 2018/2019 Sustainable education, health and environmental projects Our mission ‘why we exist’ To improve the quality of life of the people most in Our vision need in remote areas ‘what we will of the Himalaya. help to change’ We work in partnership with the people of the Himalaya to help the most disadvantaged meet their priority needs through integrated improvements in education, health and the environment. Our guiding principles ‘how we work’ Our work is guided by: Strong partnerships – we take a participatory approach with communities to understand issues from their perspective and, in partnership with them, work to deliver the outcomes they need most. Empowerment – we aim to engage and empower people in the communities where we work so any change is sustained. Alignment & harmonisation – we work closely with national governments to align our focus with their policies and priorities and we harmonise our approaches with Australian development programs and those of other development partners. A long-term view – we are committed to building long-term capacity in the communities in which we operate. Respect – we are cognisant of cultural and social sensitivities and are inclusive and respectful of all the people we work with. Value for money – we monitor our projects to ensure they are evidence- based and relevant, delivered efficiently and are cost-effective. Excellent governance – we have robust internal processes and governance and work diligently with partners and governments to safeguard monies entrusted to us. Independence – we are a secular NGO with no political or religious affiliations, goals or policies. -
Into Thin Air Pre-Reading Packet Name
Into Thin Air Pre-reading packet Name: VOCABULARY Define the following words: Catharsis: Commercialization: Tragedy: Hypoxia: Socialite: Foreshadowing: Incompetent: Acclimatization: Surrogate: Apprehension: Into Thin Air Individual Research Answer the following questions in YOUR OWN WORDS in complete sentences. 1: SHERPAS Who are the Sherpas? Where do they live? What are some of their tasks in relation to helping climbers on Mt. Everest? (Describe at least 4) 1. 2. 3. 4. 2: ALTITUDE Describe the following, including the symptoms of each, and list the altitudes at which they may occur: Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS): HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema): HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema): 3: EQUIPMENT Research and find 4 different pieces of eQuipment used for high altitude mountain climbing. Describe what it is and how it is used. 4: MOUNT EVEREST What mountain range includes Mt. Everest? How high is Everest? In what two countries is Everest located? Who first summited Everest and in what year? What is the climate like on Mt. Everest? 5. JON KRAKAUER Describe at least 4 facts about him that pertain to mountain climbing. 1. 2. 3. 4. 1996 Everest Climb New Zealand team American team Adventure Consultant Mountain Madness ROB HALL SCOTT FISCHER team leader team leader GUIDES CLIENTS GUIDES CLIENTS Andy Harris John Krakauer Anatoli Boukreev Tim Madsen -journalist -Russian Mike Groom Doug Hansen Neal Beidleman Charlotte Fox -postal worker -USA Ang Dorje Dr. Beck Weathers Lobsang Jangbu Sandy Pittman -Sherpa -doctor -Sherpa -socialite Tensing Yasuko Namba -Sherpa -Japanese Fedex Dr. Stuart Hutchinson South African Team Taiwanese Team IAN WOODALL MAKALU Team leader Team leader . -
Age of Crystallization and Cooling of the K2 Gneiss in the Baltoro
Journal of the Geological Society, London, Vol. 147, 1990, pp. 603-606, 3 figs 2 tables. Printed in Northern Ireland SHORT PAPER evidence of Precambrian inheritance (Parrish & Tirrull989). Earlier pre-collision granites within theKarakoram Age of crystallization and cooling of the batholith include the Muztagh Tower unit (Fig. 1) composed K2 gneiss in the Baltoro Karakoram of biotite and hornblende-rich foliated granodiorites, which gave three K-Ar hornblende ages spanning 82-75 f 3 Ma M.P. SEARLE', R. R. PARRISH', (Searle et al. 1989), and the Hushegneiss, SE of the Baltoro R.TIRRUL** & D.C. REX3 area, which has a U-Pb zircon age of 145 f 5 Ma and two 'Department of Earth Sciences, Oxford University, 40Ar-39Arages of 203 f 0.6 Ma and 204 f 1.4 Ma (Searle et Parks Road, Oxford OX1 3PR al. 1989). Further west,hornblende-bearing granodiorites 'Geological Survey of Canada, 601 Booth Street, from the Hunza plutonic unit gave a U-Pb age of 95 f 4 Ottawa, Canada KlA OE8 (LeFort et al. 1983) and similar granites at the Darkot Pass Department of Earth Sciences, Leeds University, gave a Rb-Sr isochron age of 111 f 6 (Debon et al. 1987). Leeds, LS2 9JT These pre-collision granites of the Karakoram batholith all have calc-alkaline geochemical affinities and have been interpretedas Andean-type granitesalong thesouthern continental margin of the Asian plate, related to the Themountains of K2 (8611 m)and Broad Peak (8047111) in the northward subduction of Tethyan oceanic crust (LeFort et Baltoro (northernPakistan) are composedof Karakoram al. -
1976 Bicentennial Mckinley South Buttress Expedition
THE MOUNTAINEER • Cover:Mowich Glacier Art Wolfe The Mountaineer EDITORIAL COMMITTEE Verna Ness, Editor; Herb Belanger, Don Brooks, Garth Ferber. Trudi Ferber, Bill French, Jr., Christa Lewis, Mariann Schmitt, Paul Seeman, Loretta Slater, Roseanne Stukel, Mary Jane Ware. Writing, graphics and photographs should be submitted to the Annual Editor, The Mountaineer, at the address below, before January 15, 1978 for consideration. Photographs should be black and white prints, at least 5 x 7 inches, with caption and photo grapher's name on back. Manuscripts should be typed double· spaced, with at least 1 Y:z inch margins, and include writer's name, address and phone number. Graphics should have caption and artist's name on back. Manuscripts cannot be returned. Properly identified photographs and graphics will be returnedabout June. Copyright © 1977, The Mountaineers. Entered as second·class matter April8, 1922, at Post Office, Seattle, Washington, under the act of March 3, 1879. Published monthly, except July, when semi-monthly, by The Mountaineers, 719 Pike Street,Seattle, Washington 98101. Subscription price, monthly bulletin and annual, $6.00 per year. ISBN 0-916890-52-X 2 THE MOUNTAINEERS PURPOSES To explore and study the mountains, forests, and watercourses of the Northwest; To gather into permanentform the history and tra ditions of thisregion; To preserve by the encouragement of protective legislation or otherwise the natural beauty of NorthwestAmerica; To make expeditions into these regions in fulfill ment of the above purposes; To encourage a spirit of good fellowship among all loversof outdoor life. 0 � . �·' ' :···_I·:_ Red Heather ' J BJ. Packard 3 The Mountaineer At FerryBasin B. -
Annapurna I, East Ridge, Third Ascent. One of the Most Nota
C LIMBS A ND E XP E DITIONS : N E PA L 375 Nepal ANNAPURNA HIMAL Annapurna I, east ridge, third ascent. One of the most nota- ble accomplishments of the season was the second two- way traverse of the east ridge of Annapurna I (8,091m). When the well-known Pol- ish climber, Piotr Pustelnik, organized his four-man team for this task, he was well aware of the difficulties they would confront on this huge ridge, which starts from Tarke Kang (a.k.a. Glacier Dome, 7,193m) in the east and runs westward over Roc Noir to the three 8,000m summits of Annapurna. However, he did not anticipate the addition of two not-so-highly skilled Tibetans on his permit and the problems one of them would present. The first ascent of the east ridge, which resulted in an elegant traverse of Annapurna, ranks with some of the most significant events in the history of Himalayan climbing. The ridge was first attempted by Germans in 1969, and again in 1981 by a Swedish team, the latter getting as far as the East Summit of Annapurna. Both approached via the West Annapurna Glacier and the east side of the col north of Fluted Peak. In September and October 1984 a six-man expedition entirely formed of Swiss guides, established four camps from the South Annapurna Glacier, climbing to the col between Fluted Peak and Tarke Kang from the more difficult but less dangerous west side, then, in common with the Germans and Swedes, up the ridge above to Tarke Kang itself. -
Mount Everest, the Reconnaissance, It Was, Claimed Eric Shipton
The Forgotten Adventure: Mount Everest, The Reconnaissance, 1935. T o n y A s t i l l . F o r e w o r d b y L o r d H u n t . I ntroduction b y S i r E d m u n d H i l l a r y . S outhhampton : L e s A l p e s L i v r e , 2005. 359 PAGES, NUMEROUS BLACK & WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS, AND 2 FOLDING MAPS PLUS A UNIQUE DOUBLE DUST-JACKET OF A 1 9 3 5 c o l o r topographic c o u n t o u r m a p o f Mt. E v e r e s t ’ s n o r t h f a c e i n T i b e t b y M i c h a e l S p e n d e r . £ 3 0 . It was, claimed Eric Shipton famously, “a veritable orgy of moun tain climbing.” In May 1935, Britain’s best mountaineers, including Shipton, longtime climbing partner Bill Tilman, plus 15 Sherpas, among them a 19-year-old novice, Tenzing Norgay, embarked from Darjeeling on the fourth-ever Mt. Everest expedition. In large part because no expedition book was later penned by Shipton, their 27-year-old leader, the 1935 Everest Reconnaissance Expedi tion has remained largely unknown and unlauded. No more! Seven decades later, The Forgotten Adventure reveals the never-before-told climbing adventures of three of the twentieth-century mountaineerings most revered icons reveling in the Himalayan glory of their youth.