Annapurna I, East Ridge, Third Ascent. One of the Most Nota
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Auf Allen Gipfeln
Szene Sport FUSSBALL „Schlechtere Werte“ 320 Michael Fuchs, 41, Torwart - D P Bergsteiger A trainer der deutschen Frauen- D / Z T Nationalmannschaft, über R E P erklommen P die Leistungen der Torhüte - I N K rinnen bei der WM bereits die „Seven Summits“; die „Seven Second SPIEGEL: Der englischen Torfrau Karen Summits“ hat noch Bardsley und der Japanerin Ayumi keiner geschafft. Kaihori unterliefen bei der WM schwe - re Fehler, die zu Gegentreffern führ - ten. Trügt der Eindruck, oder fehlt vie - len Torhüterinnen im Vergleich zu den Feldspielerinnen das Niveau? Fuchs: Frauenfußball ist ein junger Sport, der Ausbildung der Torhüterin - nen wird noch zu wenig Beachtung ge - R E schenkt. 2007 wurde ich der erste D N A hauptamtliche Torwarttrainer der Na - L R E tionalmannschaft. Andere Teams, die M M A K Kammerlander auf dem Mount Logan in Kanada erst auf dem Sprung in die Weltspitze O R Ü sind, vernachlässi - B gen die Schulung der Torhüterinnen bis - BERGSTEIGEN her völlig. SPIEGEL: Welchen Einfluss haben ge - Auf allen Gipfeln schlechtsspezifische Unterschiede? er Südtiroler Hans Kammerlander will noch in diesem Jahr als erster Mensch Fuchs: Torfrauen sind die „Seven Second Summits“ bezwingen, die zweithöchsten Gipfel jedes G D I N kleiner als ihre Erdteils. Im April bestieg Kammerlander den 4730 Meter hohen Puncak Trikora Ö K D männlichen Kolle - in Indonesien, nun fehlt ihm nur noch der Mount Tyree (4852 Meter), der Berg N R E B gen und haben bei liegt in der Antarktis. Weil Kammerlander, 54, kaum Informationen über den Bardsley der Schnellkraft und Berg hat, will er ihn vor dem Aufstieg mehrmals mit dem Flugzeug umrunden, der Sprungkraft et - um die beste Route zu finden. -
Bohaterowie-Poludniowej-Sciany-Lhotse-Pdf
w Południowa ściana Lhotse Południowa ściana Lhotse to największe wyzwanie dla himalaistów XX i XXI wieku. Jest ona jedną z największych i najtrudniejszych ścian w całych Hi- malajach. Była wielokrotnie atakowana zarówno przez wielkie wyprawy oblęż- nicze, w lekkim stylu alpejskim, jak i cał- kowicie w pojedynkę – solo. Czterokrot- nie próbowały ją zdobyć zespoły polskie. W czasie tych wypraw zginęło w ścianie trzech Polaków, w tym najsławniejszy ze sławnych, drugi na świecie (po Reinhol- dzie Messnerze) zdobywca wszystkich 14 ośmiotysięczników Jerzy Kukuczka. To ich pamięci poświęcona jest ta publikacja. w Historia zdobywania południowej Lhotse Na niezaporęczowanym odcinku kotła, na wysokości ok. 8000 m, odpadł od ściany R.Chołda, spadł do jej podstawy i poniósł śmierć. Już w latach 70-ch atakowano tą ścianę. Próbowali tego Japończycy i włoska wyprawa pod kierownictwem R.Cassina z udziałem R.Messnera. Pierwsza zaawansowana próba zdobycia ściany miała miejsce w 1981 roku. Wielooso- bowa wyprawa jugosłowiańska pod kierownictwem Ales Kunavera atakowała ścianę jej lewą częścią poprzez charakterystyczne „płucka”, lewo skos do płd-zach. kotła podszczytowego i nim w prawo do ostrza centralnego filara spadającego ze szczytu głównego. W ataku szczytowym dwaj alpiniści F.Knez i V.Matijevec osiągnęli ostrze filara centralnego na wysokości 8250 m. W tym miejscu sięgające V stopnia trudności techniczne zatrzymały himalaistów i szczytu nie udało się osiągnąć. Kolejna wyprawa – czechosłowacka – wybrała prawą połać ściany. Miała ona miejsce w 1984 roku i kierowana była przez I.Galfy’ego. Droga ta obfitowała w większe trud- ności techniczne ale nie była tak zagrożona lawinami jak droga jugosłowiańska. Wy- prawa ta nie zdołała osiągnąć wierzchołka głównego jednak zakończyła się na szczy- cie Lhotse Shar i linia wspinaczki w piękny, logiczny sposób rozwiązuje „problem” południowej ściany. -
New Peaks in 2001. a Press Release from Kathmandu on April 10 Declared That His Majesty's Government Would Open 15 New Peaks W
396 T HE A MERICAN A LPINE J OURNAL, 2002 Nepal New peaks in 2001. A press release from Kathmandu on April 10 declared that His Majesty’s Government would open 15 new peaks within one week and 50 more during the post monsoon season. However, after the spring season was underway the Government announced the opening of just nine peaks with immediate effect. This is the first time any peaks have been opened while a climbing season was in progress. These nine peaks comprised six in the Khumbu and one each in the Manaslu, Annapurna, and Dhaulagiri regions. The peaks listed were: Lhotse Middle Lhotse Middle, 8413m, just opened and already climbed (8413m), Peak 38 (Shartse II: 7590m), (see full story earlier in the journal). Yuri Koshelenko Hungchi (7136m), Numri (6677m), Teng Kangpoche (6500m), and Nhe Serku (5927m), all in the Khumbu, plus P2 (6251m) in the Manaslu region, Thorang Peak (5751m) in the Annapurna region, and Thapa Peak (6012m) in the Dhaulagiri region. New Peaks for 2002. The Government of Nepal officially announced the opening of 103 additional peaks to foreign expeditions. The announcement came on Christmas Eve 2001 and took effect from March 1, 2002. Unlike the 10 peaks brought on to the list in 1998 (Visit Nepal Year) for a two-year period only, it is reported these new additions will be permanent. Speaking in Kathmandu, Ganesh Raj Karki, Chief of the Mountaineering Department at the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation, said,“This would not only help promote Nepal as the prime destination for mountaineering but also help development of the areas around these mountains.” Together with the nine peaks added to the list in spring 2001, mountaineers will now be allowed to climb 263 peaks throughout the Nepal Himalaya. -
A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 2007 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2 Contents Introduction . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . 9 Yearly Activity . 9 Regional Activity . .18 Seasonal Activity . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . 33 Activity by Citizenship . 33 Team Composition . 34 Expedition Results . 36 Ascent Analysis . 41 Ascents by Altitude Range . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . 55 Ascents by Citizenship . 60 Ascents by Gender . 62 Ascents by Team Composition . 66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . .76 Death Analysis . 81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . 81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . 84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . 86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . 89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . 93 Altitudes of Death . 96 Causes of Death . 97 Avalanche Deaths . 102 Deaths by Falling . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . 118 Deaths by Expedition Years . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . 121 Deaths by Gender . 123 Deaths by Team Composition . .125 Major Accidents . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . .147 3 4 Introduction The Himalayan Database, published by the American Alpine Club in 2004, is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the Nepal Himalaya. -
Gear Brands List & Lexicon
Gear Brands List & Lexicon Mountain climbing is an equipment intensive activity. Having good equipment in the mountains increases safety and your comfort level and therefore your chance of having a successful climb. Alpine Ascents does not sell equipment nor do we receive any outside incentive to recommend a particular brand name over another. Our recommendations are based on quality, experience and performance with your best interest in mind. This lexicon represents years of in-field knowledge and experience by a multitude of guides, teachers and climbers. We have found that by being well-equipped on climbs and expeditions our climbers are able to succeed in conditions that force other teams back. No matter which trip you are considering you can trust the gear selection has been carefully thought out to every last detail. People new to the sport often find gear purchasing a daunting chore. We recommend you examine our suggested brands closely to assist in your purchasing decisions and consider renting gear whenever possible. Begin preparing for your trip as far in advance as possible so that you may find sale items. As always we highly recommend consulting our staff of experts prior to making major equipment purchases. A Word on Layering One of the most frequently asked questions regarding outdoor equipment relates to clothing, specifically (and most importantly for safety and comfort), proper layering. There are Four basic layers you will need on most of our trips, including our Mount Rainier programs. They are illustrated below: Underwear -
From Brunate to Monte Piatto Easy Trail Along the Mountain Side , East from Como
1 From Brunate to Monte Piatto Easy trail along the mountain side , east from Como. From Torno it is possible to get back to Como by boat all year round. ITINERARY: Brunate - Monte Piatto - Torno WALKING TIME: 2hrs 30min ASCENT: almost none DESCENT: 400m DIFFICULTY: Easy. The path is mainly flat. The last section is a stepped mule track downhill, but the first section of the path is rather rugged. Not recommended in bad weather. TRAIL SIGNS: Signs to “Montepiatto” all along the trail CONNECTIONS: To Brunate Funicular from Como, Piazza De Gasperi every 30 minutes From Torno to Como boats and buses no. C30/31/32 ROUTE: From the lakeside road Lungo Lario Trieste in Como you can reach Brunate by funicular. The tram-like vehicle shuffles between the lake and the mountain village in 8 minutes. At the top station walk down the steps to turn right along via Roma. Here you can see lots of charming buildings dating back to the early 20th century, the golden era for Brunate’s tourism, like Villa Pirotta (Federico Frigerio, 1902) or the fountain called “Tre Fontane” with a Campari advertising bas-relief of the 30es. Turn left to follow via Nidrino, and pass by the Chalet Sonzogno (1902). Do not follow via Monte Rosa but instead walk down to the sportscentre. At the end of the football pitch follow the track on the right marked as “Strada Regia.” The trail slowly works its way down to the Monti di Blevio . Ignore the “Strada Regia” which leads to Capovico but continue straight along the flat path until you reach Monti di Sorto . -
Artur Hajzer, 1962–2013
AAC Publications Artur Hajzer, 1962–2013 Artur Hajzer, one of Poland’s best high-altitude climbers from the “golden age,” was killed while retreating from Gasherbrum I on July 7, 2013. He was 51. Born on June 28, 1962, in the Silesia region of Poland, Artur graduated from the University of Katowice with a degree in cultural studies. His interests in music, history, and art remained important throughout his life. He started climbing as a boy and soon progressed to increasingly difficult routes in the Tatras and the Alps, in both summer and winter, in preparation for his real calling: Himalayan climbing. He joined the Katowice Mountain Club, along with the likes of Jerzy Kukuczka, Krzysztof Wielicki, Ryszard Pawlowski, and Janusz Majer. His Himalayan adventures began at the age of 20, with expeditions to the Rolwaling Himal, to the Hindu Kush, and to the south face of Lhotse. Although the Lhotse expedition was unsuccessful, it was the beginning of his climbing partnership with Jerzy Kukuczka. Together they did the first winter ascent of Annapurna in 1987, a new route up the northeast face of Manaslu, and a new route on the east ridge of Shishapangma. Artur climbed seven 8,000-meter peaks and attempted the south face of Lhotse three times, reaching 8,300 meters on the formidable face. He even concocted a plan to climb all 14 8,000-meter peaks in one year, a scheme that was foiled by Pakistani officials when they refused him the required permits. Artur proved he was more than a climber when he organized the massively complicated “thunderbolt” rescue operation on Everest’s West Ridge, a disaster in which five members of a 10-member Polish team were killed. -
DEATH ZONE FREERIDE About the Project
DEATH ZONE FREERIDE About the project We are 3 of Snow Leopards, who commit the hardest anoxic high altitude ascents and perform freeride from the tops of the highest mountains on Earth (8000+). We do professional one of a kind filming on the utmost altitude. THE TRICKIEST MOUNTAINS ON EARTH NO BOTTLED OXYGEN CHALLENGES TO HUMAN AND NATURE NO EXTERIOR SUPPORT 8000ERS FREERIDE FROM THE TOPS MOVIES ALONE WITH NATURE FREERIDE DESCENTS 5 3 SNOW LEOS Why the project is so unique? PROFESSIONAL FILMING IN THE HARDEST CONDITIONS ❖ Higher than 8000+ m ❖ Under challenging efforts ❖ Without bottled oxygen & exterior support ❖ Severe weather conditions OUTDOOR PROJECT-OF-THE-YEAR “CRYSTAL PEAK 2017” AWARD “Death zone freeride” project got the “Crystal Peak 2017” award in “Outdoor project-of-the-year” nomination. It is comparable with “Oscar” award for Russian outdoor sphere. Team ANTON VITALY CARLALBERTO PUGOVKIN LAZO CIMENTI Snow Leopard. Snow Leopard. Leader The first Italian Snow Leopard. MC in mountaineering. Manaslu of “Mountain territory” club. Specializes in a ski mountaineering. freeride 8163m. High altitude Ski-mountaineer. Participant cameraman. of more than 20 high altitude expeditions. Mountains of the project Manaslu Annapurna Nanga–Parbat Everest K2 8163m 8091m 8125m 8848m 8611m The highest mountains on Earth ❖ 8027 m Shishapangma ❖ 8167 m Dhaulagiri I ❖ 8035 m Gasherbrum II (K4) ❖ 8201 m Cho Oyu ❖ 8051 m Broad Peak (K3) ❖ 8485 m Makalu ❖ 8080 m Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak, K5) ❖ 8516 m Lhotse ❖ 8091 m Annapurna ❖ 8586 m Kangchenjunga ❖ 8126 m Nanga–Parbat ❖ 8614 m Chogo Ri (K2) ❖ 8156 m Manaslu ❖ 8848 m Chomolungma (Everest) Mountains that we climbed on MANASLU September 2017 The first and unique freeride descent from the altitude 8000+ meters among Russian sportsmen. -
Nepal 1982 Letter from Kathmandu
199 Nepal 1982 Letter from Kathmandu Mike Cheney Post-Monsoon, 1981 Of the 42 expeditions which arrived in Nepal for the post-monsoon season, 17 were successful and 25 unsuccessful. The weather right across the Nepal Himal was exceptionally fine during the whole ofOctober and November with the exception of the first week in November, when a cyclone in western India brought rain and snow for 2 or 3 days. As traditionally happens, the Monsoon finished right on time with a major downpour of rain on 28 September. The worst of the storm was centred over a fairly small part of Central Nepal, the area immediately south of the Annapurna range. The heavy snowfalls caused 6 deaths (2 Sherpas, 2 Japanese and 2 French) on Annapurna Himal expeditions, over 200 other Nepalis also died, and many more lost their homes and all their possessions-the losses on expeditions were small indeed compared with those of the Hill and Terai peoples. Four other expedition members died as a result of accidents-2 Japanese and 2 Swiss. Winter season, 1981/82 There were four foreign expeditions during the winter climbing season, which is December and January in Nepal. Two expeditions were on Makalu-one British expedition of 6 members, led by Ron Rutland, and one French. In addition there was an American expedition to Pumori and a Canadian expedition to Annapurna IV. The American expedition to Pumori was successful. Pre-Monsoon, 1982 This was one of the most successful seasons for many years. Of the 28 expeditions attempting 26 peaks-there were 2 expeditions on Kanchenjunga and 2 on Lamjung-21 were successful. -
Strategy and Action Plan 2016-2025 Chitwan-Annapurna Landscape, Nepal Strategy Andactionplan2016-2025|Chitwan-Annapurnalandscape,Nepal
Strategy and Action Plan 2016-2025 Chitwan-Annapurna Landscape, Nepal Strategy andActionPlan2016-2025|Chitwan-AnnapurnaLandscape,Nepal Government of Nepal Ministry of Forests and Soil Conservation Singha Durbar, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: +977-1- 4211567, 4211936 Fax: +977-1-4223868 Website: www.mfsc.gov.np Government of Nepal Ministry of Forests and Soil Conservation Strategy and Action Plan 2016-2025 Chitwan-Annapurna Landscape, Nepal Government of Nepal Ministry of Forests and Soil Conservation Publisher: Ministry of Forests and Soil Conservation, Singha Durbar, Kathmandu, Nepal Citation: Ministry of Forests and Soil Conservation 2015. Strategy and Action Plan 2016-2025, Chitwan-Annapurna Landscape, Nepal Ministry of Forests and Soil Conservation, Singha Durbar, Kathmandu, Nepal Cover photo credits: Forest, River, Women in Community and Rhino © WWF Nepal, Hariyo Ban Program/ Nabin Baral Snow leopard © WWF Nepal/ DNPWC Rhododendron © WWF Nepal Back cover photo credits: Forest, Gharial, Peacock © WWF Nepal, Hariyo Ban Program/ Nabin Baral Red Panda © Kamal Thapa/ WWF Nepal Buckwheat fi eld in Ghami village, Mustang © WWF Nepal, Hariyo Ban Program/ Kapil Khanal Women in wetland © WWF Nepal, Hariyo Ban Program/ Kashish Das Shrestha © Ministry of Forests and Soil Conservation Acronyms and Abbreviations ACA Annapurna Conservation Area asl Above Sea Level BZ Buffer Zone BZUC Buffer Zone User Committee CA Conservation Area CAMC Conservation Area Management Committee CAPA Community Adaptation Plans for Action CBO Community Based Organization CBS -
Polska Wyprawa Na Nanga Parbat Polacy W Himalajach - Newsweek.Pl
Polska wyprawa na Nanga Parbat Polacy w Himalajach - Newsweek.pl... http://polska.newsweek.pl/polska-wyprawa-na-nanga-parbat-polacy-w... Zaloguj si ę Rejestracja Przypomnij hasło Najlepszy serwis w śród tygodników opinii » Tematy Galerie Wideo Blogi Polska Świat Biznes Opinie Styl Życia Sport Kultura Nauka Historia Polska Świat Biznes Opinie Styl Życia Sport Kultura Nauka Historia Wojna domowa w Syrii Czy warto studiowa ć? Społecznik Roku 2013 Prezenty od Sony Centre Pilne Ukraina: Rz ąd ści ąga wojsko do Kijowa [RELACJA] » Newsweek.pl Polska A A A Podziel si ę Wykop Lubi ę to! E-mail Twitter 1 z 18 2013-12-02 17:09 Polska wyprawa na Nanga Parbat Polacy w Himalajach - Newsweek.pl... http://polska.newsweek.pl/polska-wyprawa-na-nanga-parbat-polacy-w... Mateusz G ąsiorowski Polacy wracaj ą w Himalaje 27-11-2013 , ostatnia aktualizacja 28-11-2013 10:44 1 tys. Pole ć 5 Tweet 0 Zobacz zdj ęcia » Nanga Parbat to kolejny cel polskich himalaistów. / fot. Ahmed Sajjad Zaidi 2 z 18 2013-12-02 17:09 Polska wyprawa na Nanga Parbat Polacy w Himalajach - Newsweek.pl... http://polska.newsweek.pl/polska-wyprawa-na-nanga-parbat-polacy-w... Zobacz zdj ęcia (5) » Ju ż 1 grudnia rusza zimowa wyprawa na licz ący 8126 metrów szczyt Nanga Parbat. Zim ą tej góry nie zdobył jeszcze nikt. Tragiczne wydarzenia mijaj ącego roku: śmier ć schodz ących ze szczytu Broad Peak Macieja Berbeki i Tomasz Kowalskiego oraz zgon Artura Hajzera , który był akuszerem niemal wszystkich polskich wypraw w Himalaje w ostatnich latach nie powstrzymały polskich himalaistów przed wyprawami na dach świata. -
The Boardman Tasker Prize 2011
The Boardman Tasker Prize 2011 Adjudication by Barry Imeson I would like to start by thanking my two distinguished co-judges, Lindsay Griffin and Bernard Newman, for ensuring that we have all arrived at this year’s award in good health and still on speaking terms. We met at the BMC on 9 September to agree a shortlist based on what, in our view, constituted ‘mountain literature’ and what also met the Award criterion of being an original work that made an outstanding contribution to mountain literature. We then considered the twenty three books that had been entered and, with no small difficulty, produced a shortlist of five. We would like to start with the non-shortlisted books. As judges we were conscious of the effort required to write a book and we want to thank all the authors who provided such a variety of enjoyable, and often thought-provoking, reads. We were, however, particularly impressed by two books, which though not shortlisted, we believe have made welcome additions to the history of mountaineering. The first of these was Prelude to Everest by Ian Mitchell & George Rodway. Their book sheds new light on the correspondence between Hinks and Collie and includes Kellas’s neglected 1920 paper A Consideration of the Possibility of Ascending Mount Everest. This is a long overdue and serious attempt to re-habilitate Kellas, a modest and self-effacing man. Kellas was an important mountaineer, whose ascent of Pauhunri in North East Sikkim was, at that time, the highest summit in the world trodden by man. His research into the effects of altitude on climbers was ahead of its time.