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Charles Pickles (Presidenl 1976-1978) the FELL and ROCK JOURNAL
Charles Pickles (Presidenl 1976-1978) THE FELL AND ROCK JOURNAL Edited by TERRY SULLIVAN No. 66 VOLUME XXIII (No. I) Published by THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT 1978 CONTENTS PAGE Cat Among the Pigeons ... ... ... Ivan Waller 1 The Attempt on Latok II ... ... ... Pal Fearneough 1 The Engadine Marathon ... ... ... Gordon Dyke 12 Woubits - A Case History ... ... ... Ian Roper 19 More Shambles in the Alps Bob Allen 23 Annual Dinner Meet, 1976 Bill Comstive 28 Annual Dinner Meet, 1977 ... ... Maureen Linton 29 The London Section ... ... ... Margaret Darvall 31 High Level Walking in the Pennine Alps John Waddams 32 New Climbs and Notes ... ... ... Ed Grindley 44 In Memoriam... ... ... ... ... ... ... 60 The Library ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 76 Reviews ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 82 Officers of the Club 117 Meets 119 © FELL AND ROCK CLIMBINO CLUB PRINTED BY HILL & TYLER LTD., NOTTINGHAM Editor T. SULLIVAN B BLOCK UNIVERSITY PARK NOTTINGHAM Librarian IReviews MRS. J. FARRINGTON UNIVERSITY LIBRARY BAILRIGG LANCASTER New Climbs D. MILLER 31 BOSBURN DRIVE MELLOR BROOK BLACKBURN LANCASHIRE Obituary Notices R. BROTHERTON SILVER BIRCH FELL LANE PENRITH CUMBRIA Exchange Journals Please send these to the Librarian GAT AMONG THE PIGEONS Ivan Waller Memory is a strange thing. I once re-visited the Dolomites where I had climbed as a young man and thought I could remember in fair detail everywhere I had been. To my surprise I found all that remained in my mind were a few of the spect• acular peaks, and huge areas in between, I might never have seen before. I have no doubt my memory of events behaves in just the same way, and imagination tries to fill the gaps. -
Catalogue 48: June 2013
Top of the World Books Catalogue 48: June 2013 Mountaineering Fiction. The story of the struggles of a Swiss guide in the French Alps. Neate X134. Pete Schoening Collection – Part 1 Habeler, Peter. The Lonely Victory: Mount Everest ‘78. 1979 Simon & We are most pleased to offer a number of items from the collection of American Schuster, NY, 1st, 8vo, pp.224, 23 color & 50 bw photos, map, white/blue mountaineer Pete Schoening (1927-2004). Pete is best remembered in boards; bookplate Ex Libris Pete Schoening & his name in pencil, dj w/ edge mountaineering circles for performing ‘The Belay’ during the dramatic descent wear, vg-, cloth vg+. #9709, $25.- of K2 by the Third American Karakoram Expedition in 1953. Pete’s heroics The first oxygenless ascent of Everest in 1978 with Messner. This is the US saved six men. However, Pete had many other mountain adventures, before and edition of ‘Everest: Impossible Victory’. Neate H01, SB H01, Yak H06. after K2, including: numerous climbs with Fred Beckey (1948-49), Mount Herrligkoffer, Karl. Nanga Parbat: The Killer Mountain. 1954 Knopf, NY, Saugstad (1st ascent, 1951), Mount Augusta (1st ascent) and King Peak (2nd & 1st, 8vo, pp.xx, 263, viii, 56 bw photos, 6 maps, appendices, blue cloth; book- 3rd ascents, 1952), Gasherburm I/Hidden Peak (1st ascent, 1958), McKinley plate Ex Libris Pete Schoening, dj spine faded, edge wear, vg, cloth bookplate, (1960), Mount Vinson (1st ascent, 1966), Pamirs (1974), Aconcagua (1995), vg. #9744, $35.- Kilimanjaro (1995), Everest (1996), not to mention countless climbs in the Summarizes the early attempts on Nanga Parbat from Mummery in 1895 and Pacific Northwest. -
3Rd Press Release Chamonix, 12 March the 17 Piolets D’Or : the 6 Nominees from 22Nd to 25Th April 2009 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc – Courmayeur
3rd Press Release Chamonix, 12 March The 17 Piolets d’Or : the 6 nominees From 22nd to 25th April 2009 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc – Courmayeur The International jury of the 17th Piolets d’Or have chosen the six ascents to be nominated from among the 57 first ascents and linked routes achieved in mountains throughout the world during the course of 2008. Most of the protagonists of these six notable achievements will be present in Chamonix and Courmayeur from 22nd to 25th April. With them will be climbers from all over the world: they will be gathering to celebrate their great passion in a real festival atmosphere. Presentations, debates, films, meetings and other cultural activities will be shared between Courmayeur and Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, from 22nd to 25th April. For all information: www.pioletdor.org. 1) THE NOMINEES FOR THE 17TH PIOLETS D’OR THE ASCENTS First ascent of the South-West face of Kamet (7756m, India). A mixed Japanese team composed of Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi opened up the unclimbed South-west face of Kamet in alpine style, between 26th September and 7th October 2008. Name of Route : Samurai Direct. Height of Climb: 1800m. Difficulties declared: mixed M5+, ice 5+. New Route on the South face of Nuptse I (7861m, Nepal). Frenchmen Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon Rappaz achieved a route on the south face of Nuptse I in alpine style between the 27 and 30 October 2008. Name of Route: Are you experienced ? Height of climb: 2000m. Difficulties declared: mixed M5, ice 90°. First complete ascent of the East face of Cerro Escudo (2450m, Chili). -
1976 Bicentennial Mckinley South Buttress Expedition
THE MOUNTAINEER • Cover:Mowich Glacier Art Wolfe The Mountaineer EDITORIAL COMMITTEE Verna Ness, Editor; Herb Belanger, Don Brooks, Garth Ferber. Trudi Ferber, Bill French, Jr., Christa Lewis, Mariann Schmitt, Paul Seeman, Loretta Slater, Roseanne Stukel, Mary Jane Ware. Writing, graphics and photographs should be submitted to the Annual Editor, The Mountaineer, at the address below, before January 15, 1978 for consideration. Photographs should be black and white prints, at least 5 x 7 inches, with caption and photo grapher's name on back. Manuscripts should be typed double· spaced, with at least 1 Y:z inch margins, and include writer's name, address and phone number. Graphics should have caption and artist's name on back. Manuscripts cannot be returned. Properly identified photographs and graphics will be returnedabout June. Copyright © 1977, The Mountaineers. Entered as second·class matter April8, 1922, at Post Office, Seattle, Washington, under the act of March 3, 1879. Published monthly, except July, when semi-monthly, by The Mountaineers, 719 Pike Street,Seattle, Washington 98101. Subscription price, monthly bulletin and annual, $6.00 per year. ISBN 0-916890-52-X 2 THE MOUNTAINEERS PURPOSES To explore and study the mountains, forests, and watercourses of the Northwest; To gather into permanentform the history and tra ditions of thisregion; To preserve by the encouragement of protective legislation or otherwise the natural beauty of NorthwestAmerica; To make expeditions into these regions in fulfill ment of the above purposes; To encourage a spirit of good fellowship among all loversof outdoor life. 0 � . �·' ' :···_I·:_ Red Heather ' J BJ. Packard 3 The Mountaineer At FerryBasin B. -
Volume 27 # June 2013
THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER Volume 27 l June 2013 Contents Annual Seminar February 2013 ........................................ 2 First Jagdish Nanavati Awards ......................................... 7 Banff Film Festival ................................................................. 10 Remembrance George Lowe ....................................................................................... 11 Dick Isherwood .................................................................................... 3 Major Expeditions to the Indian Himalaya in 2012 ......... 14 Himalayan Club Committee for the Year 2013-14 ........... 28 Select Contents of The Himalayan Journal, Vol. 68 ....... 30 THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER The Himalayan Club Annual Seminar 2013 The Himalayan Club Annual Seminar, 03 was held on February 6 & 7. It was yet another exciting Annual Seminar held at the Air India Auditorium, Nariman Point Mumbai. The seminar was kicked off on 6 February 03 – with the Kaivan Mistry Memorial Lecture by Pat Morrow on his ‘Quest for the Seven and a Half Summits’. As another first the seminar was an Audio Visual Presentation without Pat! The bureaucratic tangles had sent Pat back from the immigration counter of New Delhi Immigration authorities for reasons best known to them ! The well documented AV presentation made Pat come alive in the auditorium ! Pat is a Canadian photographer and mountain climber who was the first person in the world to climb the highest peaks of seven Continents: McKinley in North America, Aconcagua in South America, Everest in Asia, Elbrus in Europe, Kilimanjaro in Africa, Vinson Massif in Antarctica, and Puncak Jaya in Indonesia. This hour- long presentation described how Pat found the resources to help him reach and climb these peaks. Through over an hour that went past like a flash he took the audience through these summits and how he climbed them in different parts of the world. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
25 An even score Greg Child’s 1983 trip to the Karakoram left him with a chaotic collage of experiences—from the exhilaration of a first ascent of Lobsang Spire to the feeling of hopelessness and depression from losing a friend and climbing partner. It also left his mind filled with strong memories—of people, of events and of mountains. Of the images of mountains that remained sharply focused in Child’s mind, the most enduring perhaps was not that of K2 or its satellite 8000 m peaks. It was of Gasherbrum IV, a strikingly symmetrical trapezoid of rock and ice that presided over Concordia at the head of the Baltoro Glacier (see image 25.1). Though far less familiar than Ama Dablam, Machhapuchhare or the Matterhorn, it is undeniably one of the world’s most beautiful mountains. Child said: After Broad Peak I’d promised myself I would never return to the Himalayas. It was a personal, emphatic, and categoric promise. It was also a promise I could not keep. Again and again the symmetrical silhouette of a truncated, pyramidal mountain kept appearing in my thoughts: Gasherbrum IV. My recollection of it from the summit ridge of Broad Peak, and Pete’s suggestion to some day climb its Northwest Ridge, remained etched in my memory.1 Gasherbrum IV offered a considerable climbing challenge in addition to its beauty. Remarkably, the peak had been climbed only once—in 1958, by its North-East Ridge by Italians Carlo Mauri and Walter Bonatti. There are at least two reasons for its amazing lack of attention. -
Mountaineering: the Heroic Expression of Our Age
Mountaineering: The Heroic Expression of Our Age Mikel Vause Abstract—The thesis of this paper focuses on Walter Bonatti’s For most mountaineers, the pure physical enjoyment and philosophy on the role of mountaineering as a means of experiencing spiritual uplift that accompanies a body tired from adven- wilderness in a modern techno/industrial society. Problems of going ture in wild nature is reason enough to climb mountains. into wilderness settings with too much baggage are discussed. One Materialism is, for most, at the bottom of the list. As John example is that of the climbing disasters on Mount Everest in 1996. Henry Newman argues, “knowledge [has] its end in itself,” Several years before the actual accidents, Sir Edmund Hillary, a so, also, climbing mountains has “its end in itself.” One partner in the first ascent with Tenzing Norgay, in 1953, expressed ventures out for the riches of building both a strong body and concern that people using the mountain as a business were “engen- mind, and in some cases, to become rich in the spiritual dering disrespect for the mountain.” Bonatti’s point is that moun- sense. This argument could be fairly made until recently, but tains are places to escape the commercialism of a collective, indus- in the past decade or so there has developed an ever growing trial society. This thesis is supported with arguments by notable sense of commercialism in the world of mountaineering. thinkers and wilderness philosophers such as William Wordsworth, The guiding business is nothing new to mountaineering. Edgar Allan Poe, John Muir, Doug Scott, Woodrow Wilson Sayre, In fact, climbing may never have evolved as it has were it not Geoffrey Winthrop Young, Chris Bonington, and Phil Bartlett. -
British Everest Expedition SW Face 1975 Peter Boardman and Ronnie Richards
British Everest expedition SW face 1975 Peter Boardman and Ronnie Richards It was a strange sensation to be lying prostrate with heat at nearly 6700 m, rain apparently floating down through the sultry glaring mist outside. Few people had been in the Cwm by the beginning of September and the old hands ruefully remembered November conditions in 1972, hence the gleeful graffiti on the boudoir walls of our lone Camp 2 superbox, exhorting: 'Climb Everest in September, be at home by October'. Express trains rumbled and roared incessantly from Lhotse above, the W Ridge left and uptse below; all movement on the mountain was out of the question, so we could indulge in continuous brews and lethargic inactivity. One's mind drifted back over the previous few days, traversing terrain made familiar, even legendary in the last 20 years. Base Camp, established on 22 August in its field of rubble, and a familiarisation with successive sections of the Ice-Fall on the following days, as the route through to a site for Camp 1 was prospected and made safe for subsequent traffic. Ice-Fall Sirdar Phurkipa, chief road mender and survivor of countless journeys up the Ice Fall, had shown his approval, white tooth flashing enthusiastically at the unusually benign conditions of the Ice-Fall this time of year. Tottering horrors apparently absent, the main areas of concern were the 'Egg-Shell', a short, flattish area surrounded by huge holes and crevasses, seemingly liable to sudden collapse, and a short distance above, 'Death Valley', hot and a possible channel for big avalanches peeling off the flank of the W Ridge. -
The Modernisation of Elite British Mountaineering
The Modernisation of Elite British Mountaineering: Entrepreneurship, Commercialisation and the Career Climber, 1953-2000 Thomas P. Barcham Thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of De Montfort University for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Submission date: March 2018 Contents Abstract ................................................................................................................................................... 4 Acknowledgments ................................................................................................................................... 5 Table of Abbreviations and Acronyms .................................................................................................... 6 Table of Figures ....................................................................................................................................... 7 Chapter 1. Introduction .......................................................................................................................... 8 Literature Review ............................................................................................................................ 14 Definitions, Methodology and Structure ........................................................................................ 29 Chapter 2. 1953 to 1969 - Breaking a New Trail: The Early Search for Earnings in a Fast Changing Pursuit .................................................................................................................................................. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
24 Master of all trades One could be forgiven for thinking that Australian climbers have a fixation on Mt Everest. Over the years until 1990, Australians had been members of nine Everest expeditions, while the other 13 of the world’s 8000 m peaks had been attempted by only 15 expeditions with at least one Australian member. There are occasional references in the mountaineering literature to Australians’ fixation on Everest and from time to time climbers have been heard to mutter something to the effect that ‘when Australians finally get over their obsession with Everest, then you’ll really see something in the Himalaya’. Indeed, even the structure of this book has emphasised the role of Everest ascents and attempts in the history of Australian mountaineering in the Himalaya. Although it is convenient organisationally to consider the earlier climbs of the major players in Australian Everest expeditions as lead-ups to Everest, it should be reiterated that many of these trips were not designed specifically as training climbs for Everest but were undertaken as worthy objectives in their own right. In many cases, the climbers involved had, at the time, no more than a vague notion that one day they would like to have a go at Everest and certainly had no definite Everest commitments. For example, Jon Muir’s expedition to Changabang in 1982 with the International Turkey Patrol (Chapter 19) and his trips to Gangotri in the mid-1980s (Chapter 20) were not simply training climbs for subsequent Everest attempts, and the expeditions to Dunagiri (Chapters 6 and 7) and Ama Dablam (Chapter 9) of which Tim Macartney-Snape and Lincoln Hall were members were undertaken before they had even obtained a booking for their 1984 attempt on Everest. -
Dissertation
View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by OTHES Dissertation Titel der Dissertation The Presentation of the Character of the Climber and Climbing Philosophy in North American and British Texts Verfasserin Lidiya Wukowits angestrebter akademischer Grad Doktor der Philosophie (Dr. phi.) Wien, 2009 Studienkennzahl lt. Studienblatt: A 092 343 Dissertationsgebiet lt. Studienblatt: 343 Anglistik und Amerikanistik Betreuer: Univ.-Prof. Dr. Waldemar Zacharasiewicz i Contents Part I Overview Introduction 1 General Aspects 3 Mountains in Literature 10 History of Mountaineering 28 Mountaineering Fiction 38 • The Reasons for Climbing and Writing About It 41 The Presentation of Character. An Outline 43 • Climbing Philosophy 48 • Spiritual Corruption 49 • The Meaning of Climbing 49 Part II The Presentation of the Character of the Climber in Classic Mountaineering Literature Upon That Mountain. Eric Shipton • The Book 51 • The Landscape of Climbing. The Sublime 52 • The Presentation of Character. Climbing Philosophy 53 High Adventure. Edmund Hillary • The Book 58 • The Landscape of Climbing. The Sublime 58 • The Presentation of Character. Climbing Philosophy 60 The Ascent of Rum Doodle. W.E. Bowman • The Novel 62 • The Landscape of Climbing. The Sublime 63 • The Presentation of Character. Climbing Philosophy 64 Part III The Presentation of the Character of the Climber in Modern Climbing Literature Solo Faces. James Salter The Novel 69 The Plot 71 The Landscape of Climbing 73 • The Sublime 77 The Presentation of Character 79 • The Protagonist 80 • Other Climbing Characters 89 • Susceptibility to Superstitions 92 ii Climbing philosophy 94 • Spiritual corruption 96 The Meaning of Climbing 101 The Ascent. -
Aberystwyth University Kangchenjunga: Imaging A
View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by Aberystwyth Research Portal Aberystwyth University Kangchenjunga: Imaging a Himalayan Mountain Pierse, Simon Publication date: 2005 Citation for published version (APA): Pierse, S. (2005). Kangchenjunga: Imaging a Himalayan Mountain. Prifysgol Aberystwyth | Aberystwyth University. General rights Copyright and moral rights for the publications made accessible in the Aberystwyth Research Portal (the Institutional Repository) are retained by the authors and/or other copyright owners and it is a condition of accessing publications that users recognise and abide by the legal requirements associated with these rights. • Users may download and print one copy of any publication from the Aberystwyth Research Portal for the purpose of private study or research. • You may not further distribute the material or use it for any profit-making activity or commercial gain • You may freely distribute the URL identifying the publication in the Aberystwyth Research Portal Take down policy If you believe that this document breaches copyright please contact us providing details, and we will remove access to the work immediately and investigate your claim. tel: +44 1970 62 2400 email: [email protected] Download date: 03. Oct. 2019 Introduction: Seeing Kangchenjunga Sometimes we see a cloud that’s dragonish; A vapour sometime like a bear or lion, A tower’d citadel, a pendant rock, A forked mountain, or blue promontory Antony and Cleopatra angchenjunga’s identity as a sacred mountain and abode of the gods has been known to British and Europeans from the earliest times when the Darjeeling region was first colonized by British K 1 settlers.