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UR O WINTER ON THE PACIFIC RIM ACKYARD B uadra Island Q Mtn BikeWILDWILD Trails ISLEISLE Canada’sCanada’s WestWest CoastCoast AdventureAdventure MagazineMagazine FREE

Ski Trips From Mt Washington

Caving On The North Island

ISSUE #14 JANUARY-MARCH, 2001 wildislemagazine.bc.ca Start your day with a heaping bowl of snowflakes. One alpine bowl contains 100% of your North Island High recommended daily allowances of rip-roaring fun, fresh air, and exercise. Eat it all up with touring, telemarking, ski mountaineering, snowshoeing, and snowboarding gear and clothing from MEC. Snow Lines We can equip you for Port Hardy daytrips or days-on-end (250) 949-7669 in the winter backcountry. Campbell River Play safe in the snow; visit (250) 287-9274 www.mec.ca/snowsafety.htm for more information.

Accommodations & Information 130 West Broadway, Vancouver. 872-7858 1-888-668-6622 MOUNTAIN A lifetime share in MEC is only $5.00 EQUIPMENT Call 1-800-663-2667 for a catalogue www.island.net/~cain CO-OP Visit www.mec.ca The adventure begins 1.5 hours north of Campbell River DISCOVERYDISCOVERY Extraordinary Kayaks for Extraordinary People Heli Adventure 1-866-285-2724 [email protected] www.heliadventure.com

Guided hiking, fishing & photo tours Innovative designs for Ask about our all inclusive packages optimum comfort, safety & performance

Visit www.SeawardKayaks.com to read about the El Nina Sisters at Sea Expedition, other Extraordinary Paddlers and all of Seaward's quality touring kayaks.

QuadraQuadra IslandIsland •• BritishBritish ColumbiaColumbia For a free Catalogue call 1 800 595 9755 Cover: Snowboarder, Mt Washington by Philip Stone Contents: Surfer, Long Beach WILDWILD ISLEISLE by Greg Shea www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca CCONTENTONTENTSS

BC Parks View Point p 9

Our Backyard...Quadra Mtn Biking p 11

King’s Peak Ski Trip p 17

Cannonballs, Moonmilk & Soda Straws p 19

Winter Trips from Mt Washington p 21

Ice Club p 23

Reviews p 24 www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca west coast adventure •

WILD ISLE ISLE WILD CANADIAN Play Safe AVALANCHE Get Informed ASSOCIATION Keep Informed P.O. Box 2759, Revelstoke, B.C. V0E 2S0 Tel: 250-837-2435 Fax: 250-837-4624 Courses ¥ Avalanche Bulletins ¥ Weather Forecasts Voice Bulletins 1-800-667-1105 General Inquiries: [email protected] www.avalanche.ca 3 WILWILDD ISLEISLE EDITORIAL Issue 14 - Jan. - Mar. 2001 t is a relief to see Quadra area with this issue. This starts Ia little dusting of the fi rst of what we hope will be a snow fi nally settle on series of “In Our Backyard” guides to Publisher/Managing Editor the ground this adventure recreation close to home. Philip Stone morning. It was We want to hear about your backyard Advertising proving diffi cult to be playground too. Be it cragging, biking, Jim Martin serious about surfi ng, hiking or whatever. Jot some Art Director publishing a winter notes, take a photo or two, sketch a map Sheahan Wilson issue when the and send it on to us. If you have a contact weather so far this fall with any potential local advertisers that Associate Editors has looked more like it might try to skip might benefi t from the exposure, pass Tanya Storr, Greg Shea and move right onto spring. that info on too. We’ll make it worth Feature Contributors One of the by products of the mild fall your while too by passing on to you Andy Smith, Scott Kennedy, has been a burst of exploration and mtn some great gear prizes. Rolf Kellerhals, Ryan Stuart, bike trail development around Campbell Play safe this winter. It is a great time Alex Baechler, Chris Perreault River at the new Skid Marks area. On for outdoor enthusiasts with all the thrill neighbouring Quadra Island many trails that winter sports bring. But with that Photography long haunted by the locals were added to thrill comes the need for caution and Ryan Stuart, Greg Shea, as well. care!! Philip Stone, We’re pleased to include a sampling of the riding in the Campbell River- Philip Stone

Wild Isle is published 5 times a year by Hyacinthe Bay Publishing and is distributed free of charge across Vancouver Island, the Sunshine Coast, Queen Charlotte Islands and B.C. Mainland Coastal Communities. WILWILDD ISLEISLE Editorial & Advertising Inquiries to: Welcomes submissions. Wild Isle Magazine P.O. Box 482, Heriot Bay, B.C. Canada V0P 1H0 Feature stories, photographs, artwork, press releases are all encouraged. Tel: 250 285-2234 Send it in by eMail to: [email protected] Fax: 250 285-2236 or by Canada Post to Box 482, Heriot Bay, BC V0P 1H0 eMail: [email protected] Web Site: www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca We’re standing by to receive!

Opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and in no way refl ect the views of the publishers, editorial staff, distributors or advertisers.

The sports featured in Wild Isle are inherently WILDWILD WILD dangerous with real risk of serious injury or death. In no way whatsoever should this magazine be taken to advocate participation in any activity portrayed. Wild Isle is provided for reading enjoyment only. If you choose to engage in any activity featured in ISLEISLE Wild Isle you do so at your own risk.

Printed on Quadra Island, B.C. Canada is brought to you by Castle Printing ISSN 1480-4026 by participating All rights reserved. Copyright 2000 advertisers. Next Deadline Next time you make a March 1st, 2000 purchase or visit be sure for to let them know you Issue 15 Apr-May 2001 saw their ad in Wild Isle. 4 Get Psyched! Black & White Productions invites you to check-out their latest fi lm, BEYOND GRAVITY, • •

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• Horne Lake Factory Outlet for • There are no new developments to report here. The company which owns and is logging in the Horne Lake area also owns PLUS quite a lot of land on Saltspring Island, All Your Favourite Brands! which is also being logged. To avoid problems we suggest that climbers at Horne Downtown Victoria • 360-2181 Lake: NEW! Nanaimo North • 741-1855 • Avoid any interference with logging operations. Park on the main road and stay Nanaimo Clearance Outlet away when falling, sorting or loading is 499 Wallace• 741-1855 underway. Give a particularly wide berth Downtown Courtenay • 334-3963 to any helicopter logging activity. www.valhalla-pure.com • Be aware of hazards e.g. ‘hangar’ trees, unstable debris and such. www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca Observe posted restrictions. • Do not light fi res or use open fl ames of any kind - fi re hazard in this area is often high or extreme.

Hello Skiers & Snowboarders, Crest Creek Happy Saint Nicholas Day, i.e., Santa’s About a dozen new routes were created special day before he starts working in 2000, including some excellent overtime. moderates in the 5.8 to 5.11 range, We’re still waiting for a bit more snow. bringing the total number of routes at Opening day could be either Saturday, the area to 183. These include 15 fine December 16 or Sunday, December 17. aid routes on overhanging cliffs which west coast adventure • Whether we open that weekend depends on provide fun in the rain. Some keen how much snow Mt. Cain gets in the next boulderers have been working as well, several days. Before heading up, call our with the result being some fine problems. snow phone at (250) 949-7669 (Port Hardy) Crest Creek’s test piece Lee Harvey Oz or (250) 287-9274 (Campbell River) .... In Wall, saw its first repeat by Rick Higgins. the meantime, pray to Saint Nick or any other He climbed the short , technical and winter saint or spirit for MORE SNOW!

WILD ISLE ISLE WILD pumpy line in August and commented For those of you new to our list, Mt. Cain is that 13a may be a bit soft. in the northern interior of Vancouver Island One of the most significant projects about 70 kms past Sayward. Chains must be underway at Crest Creek is a carried on our access road, which is located collaboration between the Heathens, BC just off Highway 19, the Island Highway. Hydro and BC Parks. The plan is to Mt. Cain has doubled its pool of on-hill build a bridge across Hydro’s diversion accommodations this year. Check out pipeline, improving access to the crags on accommodations on our web site the south side of Highway 28. Adopt-a- www.island.net/~cain/connection.htm Crag projects and the bolt fund continue Avoid the crowds this year and enjoy to prosper thanks to Chris Perrault and the great snow conditions and friendly Strathcona Outfitters in Campbell River atmosphere of the “Mile High Mountain” of and Nanaimo. Northern Vancouver Island. 5 BC-WA BEAR CONTROVERSY! utdoor enthusiasts living south of the encounters were responded to by Canadian less devastation on the environment than Canadian border often dream of tapping authorities, who summarily have taken up a do logging, mining or hunting, yet raises Ointo the wealth of adventure available in policy to shoot and kill these wandering bruins – signifi cantly higher, sustainable revenue. Eco- British Columbia. I’ve often heard many of my mostly grizzlies -- instead of simply tranquilizing tourism also engenders true, active stewardship American friends comment ‘how pristine and and relocating them. While I was there, an and progressive appreciation of wilderness. In unspoiled Canada is’, or praise the inclination unnamed Canadian conservation offi cer told me fact, eco-tourism is reversing the destruction of Canada’s government to ‘steward and protect’ that “It’s cheaper to kill bears instead of trapping of ecosystems in places such as Belize, Central their country’s wildlife’ populations. Yet them.” Africa and Bolivia, while providing vitally needed sometimes, reality paints a less romantic picture Yet trapping and relocating is the preferred jobs. Eco-tourism is a non-intrusive alternative of the near north. method used immediately across the border in that helps communities meet economic goals In Hyder Alaska and Stewart, British Hyder, Alaska. Hyder residents, whom only and develops sustainable stewardship attitudes. Columbia, a regional controversy is brewing number about 100, are growing more furious In Stewart, the gateway city to Hyder, AK and -- a controversy that has proven to be lethal with each bear killed. Residents of Hyder count Fish Creek, protecting grizzlies and promoting to some of the province’s grizzly bears. It largely on the income generated by tourism, eco-tourism could pay untold ecological and appears that, in the past few summers, grizzlies, and consider the killings as a matter dictated economic dividends. along with occasional black bears, are being by municipal budget politics. Even the US As a Canadian citizen, I’ll admit that I needlessly executed as they wander into the Forest Service rangers and interpreters whom I generally fi nd it repugnant to speak ill of my frontier municipality of Stewart. questioned about the issue at Fish Creek, were country’s government, yet sometimes the need Steward and Hyder lie very close to a unique reluctant to talk about the issue. to promote sustainable conservation overpowers and marvelous place called Fish Creek, AK -- The bottom line is that grizzlies are still patriotism – particularly when the issue involves a place where both grizzlies and black bear dying. what’s better for the global community. The congregate to harvest salmon in late summer. Canadian grizzly bears have become extirpated need to protect the world’s environment and Fish Creek is a US Forest Service bear observatory, from about 25 of their traditional range. Numbers biodiversity must supercede all borders – in and since it’s a perfect riparian salmon spawning have declined dramatically; today, estimates range this time of declining habitat and disappearing bed, bears have, for decades, used the river as a that between 6000 to 13,000 grizzlies remain, resources, protecting it’s something that must be prime feeding area. from a population that once reigned more than seen as an global partnership effort. Readers The problem began when offi cials in nearby 100,000 animals. In Canada, the grizzly is are encouraged to contact Members of the Stewart, Canada initiated a roadside trash service federally listed as ‘threatened’ or ‘vulnerable’ in Stewart Municipal Council at Court House, 705 and encouraged residents, who only live a few close to 65% of its range. In the northwest, Brightwell Street, Box 127, Stewart, B. C., V0T miles away from Fish Creek, to place their trophy hunting, poaching and habitat destruction 1W0 Canada, to express their concern about this garbage outside their homes. To compound are making numbers dwindle even further. matter. To add weight to your concern, please the problem, city offi cials built an electric fence For BC’s provincial government to ignore this send a copy of your letter to the BC Provincial around their local dump, to exclude a few local issue – or for it to allow a small municipality on government’s Minister of Environment, Lands bruins that occasionally visit the disposal facility an international boundary to create a situation and Parks, the Honourable Joan Sawicki, O Box for the town’s 600 Canadian residents. that results in the unnecessary, and ecologically 9047 STN PROV GOVT, Victoria BC V8W 9E2, Not surprisingly, Fish Creek’s bears started devastating destruction of grizzly and black bears Canada. wandering across the border before daybreak to – is utterly, undeniably irresponsible. *Editor’s note: Michael Kundu, a freelance investigate the curbside trash. A few surprise Fortunately, Stewart’s municipal leadership photojournalist and fi lmmaker, specializes in extreme could, themselves, start to reverse that cycle. In adventuresports and wildlife subjects in the Pacifi c BC, eco-tourism is considered the third largest Northwest. Kundu, a duel Canadian and US citizen, currently resides in Marysville, Washington. RAINCOAST industry; it is a mechanism that yields far WILDLIFE SAFARI at Knight Inlet Lodge

Grizzly & Black Bears, Humpback, Minke and Killer Whales Sea Lions, Bald Eagles Fly-in all inclusive guided adventures Sept. 1 - Oct 15 1-877-764-4286 [email protected] 1.888 545-5595 6 15th ANNUAL PACIFIC RIM WHALE FESTIVAL MARCH 17TH– APRIL 1ST, 2001 Ucluelet – Tofi no Events Calendar

Pacifi c Rim National Park Thursday, March 15th Gala Dinner and Silent Auction They’re coming back!! Fundraiser at the Wickaninnish Inn Salal Each spring the Entire North Room ~ Reception 6:00 pm, Dinner American population of Pacifi c 6:30 pm ~ 5th Annual Event / Tickets Gray Whales migrates along the $75.00. Come and enjoy the world class West Coast of Vancouver Island, cuisine and the BC wine that will be B.C. An estimated 19,000 Gray provided with every course…..100% of Whales makes the 16,000 km the proceeds from this event will go round-trip Journey between the to the Pacifi c Rim Whale Festival ~ Mexican Baja Peninsula and the sponsored by the Wickaninnish Inn. Bering Sea near the Arctic. Once they get the West Coast th of Vancouver Island, we have a Saturday, March 17 celebration!!! Opening Ceremonies ~ 11am ~ The hosting villages of Wickaninnish Centre ~ Pacifi c Rim Ucluelet, Tofi no along with the National Park. Welcome from the Pacifi c Rim National Park Mayors of Tofi no and Ucluelet and Reserve offer a wide range of First Nations representatives, along with events providing entertaining entertainment for the whole family. Tug- and educational activities for all. of-Whale ~ 12:30 pm ~ Wickaninnish Of over seventy events during the Beach ~ the usual version of tug-o-war festival some highlights include with a Whale Festival twist. Local community groups get together and

www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca – the Chowder Chow Down in Ucluelet - a seafood chowder challenge each other; however, everyone cook-off competition guaranteed is invited to join in the fun. Sponsored to whet your appetite and please by the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce. the palate, a Parade of Whales in Tofi no, the Whale Festival Raft Dates to be announced for: Race that has its own set of rules, Chowder Chow~Down ~ come and and amazing Art Show sponsored sample delicious versions of West Coast by our local arts society and so Seafood Chowder created by our local much more. restaurants (Ucluelet and Tofi no). The Gray whales due travel close to shore in the Spring, Vancouver Aquarium Aquavan ~ pausing to feed in shallow waters,

west coast adventure • learn about animals from BC’s fresh and providing excellent viewing marine waters (live specimens) with a opportunities from strategic trained educator from the Vancouver shore locations. For an even Aquarium though workshops, creative more exhilarating, close-up view explorations and hands on of these magnifi cent animals, demonstrations. one can venture out onto the

WILD ISLE ISLE WILD open Pacifi c aboard local charter Whale Watching Station ~ Ucluelet, boat offering scheduled whale Amphitrite Point ~ representatives from watching excursions from either Bushnell Binoculars will be on site with Ucluelet or Tofi no. This is a must spotting scopes set up to view the whales see!! from shore. For more information contact the Pacifi c Rim Whale Festival Whale Festival Parade Head Quarters at 250-726-7742 Whale Watch “Hotline” ~ visitors to the or visit us on the world wide Vancouver Aquarium will be informed web: about whale sightings and Festival events www..island.net/~tofi no to be presented at the Aquarium during www.ucluelet.com/ucoc whale shows via live broadcast and fax www.alberni.net/~pacrimtourist and be displayed in the viewing areas. 7 Hooksum School Canadian Princess Resort: n northwestern Clayoquot Sound, away from towns and roads, is Too Good to be True a unique nautical atmosphere and several Ithe traditional homeland of marine adventures. With cruisers that Kinqwastakumulth, one of the principle accommodate 14 to 22 anglers, corporate clans that make up the Hesquiat First by Mathew Regier groups or fi shing friends can fi ll a boat and Nation. In the powerful setting of have a private fi shing party. This is the ultimate way to customize a group fi shing Vancouver Island’s rugged west coast, ome of the best fi shing on the coast of B.C. is found along the majestic trip as the anglers can be slammin’ salmon members of this clan operate a unique, western shores of Vancouver Island. and kickin’ halibut butt all day long from exciting outdoor leadership and S This indisputable fact draws people from comfortable cruisers with expert skippers environmental education programs. near and far to the Canadian Princess and deckhands. A Canadian Princess trip Based upon indigenous values of Resort in Ucluelet. From late April through is affordable and makes it easy for fi shers to respect and caring for the environment September, anglers are in hot pursuit of the convince friends to join them on a west coast and each other, Hooksum Outdoor massive salmon runs and bountiful supply fi shing adventure. School provides practical, hands on of bottomfi sh that thrive in Barkley Sound The area offers more than just fabulous skills training; activities and experiences waters. Great fi shing, superb scenery and fi shing. The spectacular scenery which lines the rugged coast of Vancouver Island which facilitate understanding and coastal tranquillity are standard with every trip. Sounds too good to be true? It gets is host to countless species of marine life, connection to the natural world; and better. Canadian Princess Resort is very including grey whales, orcas, bald eagles, opportunities for personal and affordable and offers lowers prices than dolphins, seals and sea lions. All of these, professional growth & development. anywhere else on the west coast. and much more, can be observed in their Hooksum Outdoor School’s spring The forecast for exciting returns of salmon natural element on one of our nature cruises West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training to Barkley Sound will add up to more through the pristine Broken Islands. Ancient runs from May 1st to May 28th, 2001. screaming reels for everyone in 2001. Also, rain forests and world-famous Long Beach The intensive four week session last year there was tremendous success as can be explored on foot, as Pacifi c Rim includes: certifi cation in wilderness fi rst fabulous halibut fi shing was enjoyed by all. National Park is at the doorstep of the Canadian Princess Resort. A stroll along the aid, life saving and sea kayaking; remote Therefore, Canadian Princess will continue to offer a multitude of fi shing options. For beach and a glimpse of a breathtaking sunset surfi ng and surf guide instruction; those interested in duking it out with chunky after a gourmet dinner at our Wickaninnish backpacking/coastal hiking; lessons in chinook and feisty coho salmon during the Restaurant will provide a spectacular end to natural and cultural history; evening bite, late afternoon salmon trips will a perfect day. environmental education; outdoor be running daily. Anglers will also have the With so many options available for the leadership and guiding opportunities. option to cruise out to the offshore bank angler, naturalist and beachcomber, there The session runs out of a traditional on exclusive halibut trips to visit the ‘barn is something for everyone at Canadian style longhouse at Iusuk, Hesquiat doors’, which were taken at up to 120 lb. Princess Resort. Choose from the comfort Harbour (Hesquiat Provincial Park). in 2000. Of course, bottomfi shing trips are of hotel accommodations or the adventure of staterooms aboard the ship. Explore The site is accessible by boat and fl oat available for those who want to load up on lingcod, snapper and rockfi sh. With all of the quaint village of Ucluelet or examine plane only, and is not serviced by these options, Canadian Princess guests can a thriving tidal pool on a secluded beach. electricity, telephones, indoor plumbing engage in as much fi shing time as they can On the west coast, you can fi sh as long and or running water (other than the stream handle. hard as you want to, or you can take it from which participants get drinking Canadian Princess Resort is extremely slow and easy. You customize your vacation! water). Participants spend the duration popular with many groups. Whether you are Call your reservation coordinator at 1-800- of the program in this area. entertaining your best clients or organizing 663-7090 to start planning your west coast Hooksum Outdoor School has a get-a-way with friends, the resort offers holiday today! assembled an incredibly knowledgeable and experienced world-class staff dedicated to stimulating and challenging anyone interested in the Pacifi c coastal environment, aboriginal traditions and knowledge, outdoor leadership skills and/or personal growth. A limited number of applications for the program are now being accepted. Information about the West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training, as well as Hooksum Outdoor School’s other programs is available from Karen Charleson at PO Box 352, Tofi no BC V0R 2Z0 or call 250-670-1120

8 One recent meeting held to discuss this very issue, brought out some interesting pros, cons and general comments. While by Andrew Smith all participants’ comments and opinions are valued, it is often difficult in these situations to determine whether the comments are supported by many or a few. The only thing w can hope for is that a large pool of people take the time to provide input and that the comments they provide show some consistency or common ground from which we can extract a general trend. For this reason I would encourage all readers to take the time to forward GATEWAY TO PARADISE comments to myself, but to help you, let me provide you with some of the key comments gathered already. On the hose of you who have explored and assessed. The existing location, due to “con” side; impacts of new boardwalk Strathcona Park’s Paradise impacts, lack of space and gradients could not construction; legal agreement required meet the current or future envisioned needs. Meadows and Forbidden between Mt.Washington and BC Parks After map review and fi eld reconnaissance, to use common parking lot; legal Plateau will be familiar with four other site options were sought and easement required to ensure access theT existing trailhead, located near Mt assessed. None of these options proved to through private land to trailhead; Washington’s Nordic Ski Lodge. You will also be ideal, with some of the key negating proximity to commercial facility; be familiar with the trail’s obscurity, often factors being lack of parking, building size potential for “blurred” park presence; restrictions distance from meadows and trail hidden behind a row of cars in the summer closure and rehabilitation of existing gradients. However, one site did appear to be trailhead. and completely buried under snow in the more favourable than others – the adjacent Some of the “pros” include; providing winter. It might be surprising to readers that cut block on the west side of the meadows, a distinct gateway into park; better while this standard, basic trailhead does get below what many people know as the parking (highway improvement will people into the park, it serves as one of the Biathlon site. jeopardize existing parking); upgrade At that time, the site was outside the park key entrances into Strathcona and therefore of barrier-free access into the park for and access to it would be much too costly summer and winter visitors; potential to many visitors, inappropriate as a gateway to pursue further assessment or planning. for sharing facilities, i.e washrooms, www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca into such a world class park. Jump to 2000 – BC Park’s is pursuing a land heated building, communications; Guided by the park’s Master Plan, a public acquisition of Timberwest lands including adequate space to consider separate committee was formed in 1996 to develop the site identifi ed by the committee and at Park Visitor Centre or information and assess various options for improving the same time, the public road upgrade to facility; assistance from Mt.Washington the park’s entrance, with the development reach Mt. Washington’s new Nordic Lodge to pursue and secure outside funding of a skiers warming hut and information provides the much needed access to the site. for the construction of new boardwalk facility. It did not take long for the committee These new developments have provided trail. however, to determine that what the park BC Parks with the opportunity to pursue a Give it some thought and if you have really deserved was a visitor centre which more detailed assessment and consideration a point of view please contact Andy would not only serve the educational and of pros and cons for moving the trailhead to Smith, BC Parks, Extension Officer at information needs of park visitors, but would the west side of the meadows. This decision Tel: (250) 337-2405, Fax: 337- 5695. establish an appropriate gateway into the process must include the opportunity for E-mail: [email protected].,or west coast adventure • park. public input and we hope to achieve that send letters to BC Parks, Strathcona As often the case, the vision was easier to through public meetings, discussion by District, 1812 Miracle Beach Drive, Black develop than reality and over the next couple advisory committees, and even articles like Creek, British Columbia, V9J 1K1. of years, various site options were identifi ed this. WI

Discovery Islands Courses & tours in Clayoquot Sound with Dan Lewis & Bonny Glambeck

WILD ISLE ISLE WILD & Fjordlands

• Waterfront Homestead • Outer Islands Lodge (250) 287-0635 [email protected] 1-877-422-WILD www.coastmountainexpeditions.com www.rainforestkayak.com 9 The Island’s Alpine Playground is Growing

MT. WASHINGTON - Poised to become “While the management and owners one of the most spectacular multi-season, of the Resort recognize the demand for multi-use coastal alpine recreational areas more accommodation facilities, activities and in British Columbia, and indeed the Pacifi c recreational terrain, they are collectively Northwest, Mt. Washington is looking to its committed to ensuring that future land future with a positive focus. use be balanced orderly and respectful of The resort is now in the process of environmental values, particularly given our expanding its existing facilities to better proximity to Strathcona Park”, says Gibson. accommodate both day visitors from To guide future land use on the mountain, throughout Vancouver Island, as well as the Regional District of Comox Strathcona is longer stay recreation seekers from not only proposing the development of a Local Area the Island and Mainland points, but also the Plan for Mt. Washington. The process is American Northwest, stretching as far a fi eld underway with a number of open houses as Europe. and workshops already being held. There Ease of access to the recreation site has will be an open house at the Mt. Washington improved immeasurably, thanks to an excellent Resort on Dec. 30, followed by a series of paved road that can take the visitor from the open houses and workshops, which will take foot of the mountain in the Comox Valley to place in Feb. 2001, both at the Regional a day on the slopes or Strathcona Park within District offi ce and the resort. There will also an easy 20-minute drive. Furthermore, visitors be an open house in Victoria. Dates to be from the southern Island can reach the Comox The resort is moving increasingly into the announced. Valley jumping-off point with increased rapidity realm of year-round activities for the visitor. “The mountain has a wonderful future,” and less wear-and-tear thanks to the new Inland Diversity is going to be the key to Mt. says Jay Oddleifson, Mt. Washington director of Island Highway, which now reaches the Valley, Washington’s future as a destination, indeed property development planning, says. “We hope and is slated to be completed through to Campbell the prime destination and draw for this part of to become the tourism hub of the region, but River in 2001. Completion of this section will Vancouver Island. As half of the year is snowfall for orderly and responsible growth, we also signifi cantly improve accessibility for residents of and winter sports, the other half is group and have to have investor confi dence. That way we Campbell River and points north. family recreation of the sort that can only be can have happy skiers and balanced growth.” Mt. Washington Alpine Resort has grown found in such a spectacular setting. The ultimate vision for Mt. Washington is not considerably as a winter recreation area during “We want to get the message out that we are the high-end luxury of a Whistler/Blackcomb its years of operation and averages an annual here, and while we are part of the Comox Valley, resort, but a facility that is within the grasp of snow base of 880 centimetres (28 feet). Alpine we also represent an important resource not all both winter and summer, a resort that offers skiers may enjoy more than 50 runs. As well there only to the local community, but to Vancouver comfort and esthetics, while staying within are also 40 kilometres of Nordic track for those Island in general,” says Mt. Washington Alpine the reach of all budgets. At the same time, who seek the more relaxing pleasures of cross- Resort general manager, Peter Gibson. “For Oddleifson says, it is essential that the delicate country skiing. Nordic skiing on Mt. Washington many visitors to the Island, their experience balance between development and the natural is regarded as the best in the northwest and has ends at the top of the Malahat. We want them to splendors of the site and surrounding area be the potential to be world class. know there is so much more.” maintained at all costs.

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Call for more information 250-897-3254 [email protected] 2 locations Alder Bay/Johnstone Strait & www.island.net/~hipski Port Hardy

For information or brochure Toll Free 1 877-949-7707 [email protected] www.island.net/~nikayak 10 WILDWILD ISLEISLE QUADRA ISLAND In Our Backyard Ä 1- Missing Link & CAMPBELL RIVER Length: 5km/Xmi 1 way, Elevation: Xxxm/Xxxft including Snowden Forest & Great ride between woodlot & TFL! Old mine site & wet- lands. Locate woodlot road near dryland sort on North Gowlland Harbr Rd. CR’s hot new area Skid Marks Ä 2- Morte Lake Length: 8km/Xmi round trip, Elevation: Xxxm/200ft Popular ride around scenic lake. Several variations, loops and spur trails. Mostly intermediate riding with some dif- fi cult sections. High traffi c trail watch for hikers and take care to prevent erosion. 3- Beaver Lake Ä Length: 8km/Xmi 1 way, Elevation: Xxxm/1,100ft Mountain Biking Gradual climb on excellent old road with one heart ponding section. Higher up road becomes more defi ned through recent logging blocks. Links with Nugedzi Lake and Mt Seymour trails not confi rmed but likely. Ä 4- Mt Seymour Length: 4km/Xmi 1 way, Elevation: Xxxm/1,200ft Gruelling climb on old road. Shorter climb than either Beaver Lake or Seymour North and so preferred as ascent to link with Nugedzi Lake hiking trail or a descent down Seymour North. Ä 5- Mt Seymour North www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca Length: 4km/Xmi 1 way, Elevation: Xxxm/1,200ft One of the best rides on Quadra. Find the trailhead hidden at the top of the gravel pit close to Granite Bay Rd. A long climb on old road bed leads up to great views, a lookout over Seymour Narrows, links with Beaver Lake and Mt Seymour trails. If planning a circuit, choose this as your way down but works great up or down. Ä Ä 6- Shake Cutters & Length: Xkm/Xmi Elevation: Xxxm/Xxxft Park as for Mt Seymour North and start up that trail. Several old quad tracks lead off to left (downhill) into a maze of trails, drops & obstacles. Quadra’s growing trials area. west coast adventure • 7- Deepwater Main Ä Length: 4km/Xmi 1 way, Elevation: Xxxm/Xxxft Easy enjoyable trail with a gradual climb and fast easy descent to Deepwater Bay on old road (please respect private property at end of road). Ride in and out same way

WILD ISLE ISLE WILD or take one of the links to a maze of trails to the north toward an old mine site and Darkwater Lake. 8- Newton Lake - Small Inlet Ä Length: 10km/Xmi round trip, Elevation: Xxxm/500ft Easy enjoyable trail with a mellow climb up an eroded road bed to Newton Lake. Ride around lake to hiking trail down to Small Inlet. This trail is within Small Inlet Marine Park please respect park values and posted regulations.

For more information about riding on Quadra Island stop in at Island Cycle in the Yak Shack, Heriot Bay or visit www.quadraisland.bc.ca/islandcycle

11 Skid Marks Snowden Forest Elk Quadra OCTOPUS ISLANDS \ MARINE PARK Bay & Pumphouse Trails Moriarty Pt Ashlar Creek SMALL INLET Island CAMPBELL RIVER Ashlar Cove MARINE PARK O kis ollo Kanish Bay Within just a few minutes drive or a Channel Chai ned Islands Newton short grind by bike from Campbell River Lake is a growing maze of trails at the SURGE NARROWS 8 MARINE PARK Pumphouse, Snowden Demonstration LEGEND Granite Bay S disused road Yeatman u P r Forest and the latest addition Skid Marks. Bay ge N bike trail Ä We’ve highlighted just a few of these trails arrows bike trail Ä Clear MAIN LAKE on the map (right) but if planning to ride bike trail Ä Lake PROVINCIAL PARK around Campbell River be sure to pick up hiking trail F Main day area a copy of Epic Productions’Mtn. Bike Trail ∂ Little Main Lake Lake d campground P Map for the area at Urban Lemming or any O p campsite e D n d B of the fi ne bike stores in Campbell River. a R information y s i M w P P a o parking in r 7 Gravel Stramberg r ≥ Pit P Village a Ä Lake N p pullout Deepwater Bay 1- Luka P e 6 Bay rg 5 Su telephone G Lake ℡ ra Ä Private n i 2- Skid Marks t SCALE 1:100,000 approx e

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and Is. R 12 d 10 11 Tree ù d P Nursery For more information about P 9 Snowden & Skid Marks current P P P 8 7 A conditions, closures and new trails p r i l

P t ELK FALLS R stop in at Urban Lemming on d LOVELAND BAY Hart Lak P 5 PROVINCIAL PARK hn e 6 Dogwood St, Campbell River Jo P SKIDMARKS 4 Quathiaski Cove P ú 3 i H℡ Gravel Noble Rd 2 Pit PROVINCIAL PARK W C Want to share with Wild Isle readers e a W p a y e

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it be mtn bike trails, hiking trails, a great m d p 28 paddling destination, a new crag or surf bell Lak i H ℡ ∆ d spot. Give us a call at 250 285-2234 or e e 19 email us at [email protected] and we’ll lin er 19A w give you some tips on how best to submit o Joyce P Rd

your info. © Wild Isle Publications 2000

We Offer • Bike Tours Clearing Out • Bike Rentals All 2000 • Quality Repairs • Hiking Excursions Bike Models • Outdoor Adventures • Custom Bike Building • New and Used Bikes [email protected] 286-6340 New Armour & Accessories for Sale www.quadraisland.bc.ca/islandcycle At the Yak Shack [email protected] In Now! corner of Taku & Heriot Bay Rd www.urbanlemming.com Heriot Bay Quadra Island 151 Dogwood St Campbell River Different Spokes for Different Folks 12 WILDWILD ISLEISLE Canada’sCanada’s WestWest CoastCoast AdventureAdventure MagazineMagazine

Winter Surfi ng www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca Storm Watching Whales, Wildlife west coast adventure • WILD ISLE ISLE WILD WINTERWINTER ONON THETHE PACIFICPACIFIC RIMRIM 13 NOOTKA BLIGH Gold River ISLAND ISLAND MV Uchuck lll

No otka Trail Yuquot STRATHCONA WESTMIN PROVINCIAL PARK

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l C Hot Springs Cove FLORES l ra t ISLAND n Herbert Inlet Mt Quimper Velella Peak e C t a re G Tranquil Creek Provincial Park Ahousat

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PACIFIC RIM 4 NATIONAL Long Beach PARK Kennedy Lake

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14 Winter On The ig waves, spectacular weather, pristine nature and deserted beaches are what winter is all about on the Vancouver BIsland’s Pacifi c Coast. Gone are the crowds of tourists that fl ock to the Tofi no area all summer. In their place locals and surf bums enjoy the quiet beaches and quaint restaurants and shops. But that doesn’t mean the Tofi no area isn’t worth visiting during the winter. There are tons of things to do and enjoy including good surfi ng, storm watching, nature hikes, beautiful scenery and crowd less beaches, and the bonuses of cheap season room rates and no

19 waiting for tables at delicious restaurants. Tsable River The Red Pillar 19A “It’s a great time of the year to come to the Pacifi c Rim area,” said Harry Veller, the general manager for the Weigh West Resort. “You can enjoy nice walks on the beach, you can storm watch or go on nature hikes in the rain forest. And after a day in the fresh air it’s lls really romantic to come back warm up in front of the fi replace, relax T r a or go out for a nice meal and good wine. It’s ideal.” il In the calm between storms Veller said people can take advantage of the good weather by going winter salmon fi shing in Clayquot il a Great Central Lake Mt Apps Sound or fl ying into Hot Springs Cove or taking a kayak lesson. For stormy days the Wikkinnish Inn recommends guided nature hikes that take groups out storm watching. Groups are lead out to vantage points and beach coves where they can safely watch waves steepen, break and crash in explosions of white spray. The Wikkinnish tells guest to come prepared for the “lousy VANCOUVER weather,” winter in Tofi no is known for, so they can enjoy the outdoors. With rain gear, anyone can comb sandy beaches for salty treasures or walk through the lush, moss covered old growth 4 forests. yoquot On really stormy days checking out the town of Tofi no is a good teau idea,Veller said. vincial Park Klitsa Mtn “There is still a good selection of restaurants and shops open

www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca Port Alberni throughout the winter.” The biggest benefi t of visiting the west coast at this time of year is ISLAND the lack of crowds. Veller said “availability is not a problem for visitors,” at area hotels tland and restaurants. And prices are as low as they get. That is until Valentines day, when romantically inclined couples come, hoping for stormy weather, so they can enjoy indoor activities like sitting Mt Hall around fi replaces, dining out, storm watching, and other, eh...well you get the picture. Lucky Mtn After the Valentine crowds get their fi ll and go home it’s not long Black Peaks before the whale watchers take their place. “Whale watching begins on March 1 and it’s busy here from mid Redford

west coast adventure • March until the end of March,” said Veller. “That’s when the Grey whales are heading north.” Now, throughout the Valentine and whale season, and sometimes Broughton into summer months, consistently big surfi ng waves roll out of the Peaks Pacifi c and onto the beaches, reefs and point breaks around Tofi no. With the summer crowds gone there is plenty of waves to enjoy all to oneself. With water temperatures in the single digits an armor of wet

WILD ISLE ISLE WILD suits and warm under layers is suggested. There are local surf shops BROKEN around Tofi no where rentals and sales are available. The shops are EY ISLANDS a good source for information on surfi ng in the area including good breaks, warnings and ocean weather reports. Imperial Eagle Channel There is defi nitely no shortage of things to do around Tofi no throughout the winter regardless of what Mother Nature is throwing at Vancouver Island. In fact the more she throws the better it can be. Bamfield So go and enjoy a different holiday this year. - Ryan Stuart

W Ryan Stuart is a misplaced Calgarian studying journalism at Langara in Vancouver e s

PACIFIC RIM t Co NATIONAL ast T ra PARK il Pacifi c Rim 15 BAMFIELD LODGE Why rush your trip to COTTAGES & CHARTERS the Hot Springs? • Self Contained waterfront accommodation on Bamfield's famous boardwalk. Enjoy our six • Charters and tours in comfort on room lodge the 30ft MV Coastal Rover. on Hot • Groups of up to 12 people. Springs • Cappuccino Bar Cove. Matlahaw Water Taxi Round Trip, Day Trip to the Springs & Whale Watching. Tel: 250 728-3419 Fax: 250 728-3417 For Reservations eMail: [email protected] (250) 670-1106 www.anglingbc.com/bamfieldlodge Box 2000, Tofino B.C. V0R 2Z0 Canada

Modern accommodations with spectacular sunsets on RESORT Vancouver Island's 'wild' West Coast Discover the Spirit

1-800-661-9995 TOFINO - LONG BEACH BC 16 Above: Looking from Queens-Kings col to Elkhorn & Mt Colonel Foster. File Photo by Ryan Stuart Below: Enroute up the King’s Peak trail. Photo: Ryan Stuart

www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca eep, Beep, Beep.’ The fog slowly on the Island, Elkhorn. I was accompanied stairs. I should have taken the pain as a bad lifted from my head at the sound with some buddies from Whistler. Tobin omen. There had been several bad omens ‘Bof the alarm. And then the rain and I were friends from COLT Tobin’s ski that should have tipped us off to what was started, as if my morning wake-up call had buddies Jamie and Matt were also along for to come. The fi rst was that the weather woken the heavens. A steady pitter patter on the fun. forecast was crappy, next I forgot my gore- the roof, brought a groan from deep inside my The plan was to climb up the north side of tex jacket, then Matt didn’t have crampons, body. This morning was going to be painful. Kings peak, ski down the south face, climb our food was exploding all over the place, we If it was up to me I would have rolled back up Elkhorn’s West Couloir and ski back down didn’t have enough breakfasts and fi nally the against my girlfriends warm body and fallen the previously unskied route and become ludicrous weight of my pack. asleep. Maybe I’d go paddling later. But I famous for a new ski line in a previously I should have turned around a hundred knew the boys, sleeping downstairs, were far overlooked ski mecca(?!) After an epic decent feet up the trail. I shouldn’t have gotten out too excited, for our planned adventure, to let down the 45 degree couloir, Matt and I would of bed! We struggled ever upwards, praying a little rain stop us. Last night’s forecast of return home via the same route. Tobin we would hit the snow soon. We fi gured west coast adventure • 3 days of rain hadn’t dampened their plans and Jamie would attempt to ski tour out if we just get the skis and boots off our backs, one little bit. to the Golden Hinde, the highest peak on the load might be manageable. When we As quietly as I could I extricated myself the Island, ski it and fi nish the traverse to did hit snow, we doned skis and skins. But from the bed and stumbled down the stairs. Phillip’s Ridge & Westmin. skinning up proved futile. The hill was too I realized I wasn’t surprised it was raining. I had very little desire to attempt the steep and the snow had too much slip and not I had seen the forecast I knew it was going entire traverse but I wished them good luck. enough grip. Half way to our intended camp

WILD ISLE ISLE WILD to piss on us, but there is always that little Tobin was very determined to ski the Golden we hit the cloud line and were enveloped in string of hope that the weather person is Hinde. The year before he had attempted ghostly whiteness. We could see 200 ft. We always wrong and maybe it won’t be as bad the traverse in the opposite direction and were soaking wet. We were spent. as they say. had run into more typical Island weather. It was typical. Typical that I was going to He had wandered around in dense fog going the mountains and it was raining and typical in circles for a couple of days before fi nally that it was raining on Vancouver Island. In giving up. He wanted it bad! the winter this typical rain turns to typical After a delicious breakfast of bacon and snow in huge quantities. Over forty feet of eggs in the rain, we hoisted our packs and set settled snow in the epic winter of 98-99. We off up Kings Peak. I immediately noticed the were planning to use the Island snow pack, weight of my pack. Loaded with downhill that was fi rming up nicely, to attempt an ski equipment, I felt like a sumo wrestler unskied line on the the second highest peak was catching a piggy back ride up a fl ight of 17 Unanimously we agreed to call it a day. for a look at King’s Peak a smile crept across down climbed. Safely at the Elk River they Skis and packs fi nally off we bounded around my face. The entire mountain was engulfed faced one more obstacle. By this time the campsite enjoying the freedom from our in an angry black cloud. Tobin and Jamie they felt like they were were trapped in nemesis. The rain continued to fall steadily were getting pissed on. Next time I even an outdoor version of American Gladiator. and by 7:30 we were snuggled deep inside think of starting a trip in the rain I will They approached the championship trail. our sleeping bags fi nally warm and moist remember this mountain adventure and stay The log walk. instead of cold and soaked. in bed... Working together a pair must attempt to As I closed my eyes to sleep I vowed to cross the racing, icy waters of the Elk River hold my pee until morning. Holding back ive days after I left for the mountains with 70 pound packs on, exhausted legs and pee all night is hard but it was even harder I was hanging out in a friends cabin to top it off one member of the team must be when everything surrounding me was damp Fnot far from Kings Peak. The rain wearing ski boots. In what I imagine was a or wet and a steady drip of rain bounced off had barely relented since I had returned, hilarious scene, Tobin shimmied across the the fl y. None the less I held off until seven making me feel good about my decision. log on his butt with his legs wrapped around the next morning. Very proud of myself I Since I returned I couldn’t stop thinking like a kid on a pony ride, while Jamie ferried raced out into the brief respite from the rain, about my buddies, still out there getting the packs. The trail to the car was straight and breathed a mighty sigh of relief. Matt rained on. Man they are crazy. Maybe forward. Dry clothes, relief from their packs and I decided over a soggy breakfast that this they got to ski Elkhorn and it was amazing, and, for Tobin, comfortable footwear awaited weather was not our thing. We were calling I would be jealous if that was the case. their arrival. Little skin remained intact on it quits. A knock echoed through the house and in Tobin’s feet, and I think their gear is still We redivided the food and headed down. walked Tobin and Jamie. drying to this day. Their ordeal over the two The fi rst part of the trail was open enough They looked wild, haggard and exhausted. intrepid hard and burly men, hesitated just to ski. If that is what you want to call the Their eyes jumped out of their heads with long enough to recount this tale of horror awkward stem christies, side slipping and a crazed hermit’s quality. They took a before hurrying off to get a beer. Who could general hack job I did with a 50 pound pack seat and began excitedly, recounting their blame them, they had defi nitely earned two on. The lower we dropped on the mountain adventures. or twenty. it rained harder and my legs grew weaker. While Mat and I were losing elevation fast, I had intended to write an article on an Ten minutes from the car the sun popped slip sliding down Kings Peak in the rain, the area that has incredible undiscovered ski out giving us a torrential rain, sun shower. other two were becoming ice cubes as they touring potential. Where a few skiers, trying I almost, for a nano second, thought we struggled upwards through the rain and into to fi ght the onslaught of summer, had enjoyed had made the wrong decision, but then it a driving blizzard. They had made camp just some good spring turns, down some remote, darkened and continued the lovely spring below the summit where they dug a pit rarely skied slopes. I envisioned photo’s to deluge. My leg strength was nearing zero. in the snow to pitch the tent. Arriving drool over, steep, tight lines of perfect corn, With each step down I thought it would be at one pm, they spent the remainder of with blue sky and hundreds of peaks for my last. Finally the forest opened, the car the afternoon and night keeping snow from backdrops and my buddies ripping it up. In appeared and off came the packs for good. collapsing the tent with them in it. The next short an article about a perfect trip. In some As we raced down the highway the weather day with visibility slightly improved, they ways I am glad I didn’t have anything close began to clear and more doubt fi lled my worked their way through cliff bands and to a perfect trip. I am as hungry for turns mind. But as I checked my rearview mirror sweet turns to the base of Elkhorn. From as ever but bad days make the good ones there they climbed up and into the bowl more worthwhile. Bad weather and epic beneath the couloir. Slowly the upper part of adventures are the ones that are reminisced the couloir could be seen, excitement grew. about for years. The good ones are forgotten It would all be worth it, they would be able much sooner. Tobin, Jamie, Matt and I will to ski! A fi rst decent, a dream of theirs be forever bonded by enduring hardship and and mine since extreme movies featuring a long night on Kings Peak. None of us will Scot Schmidt, Glen Plake and the Delauriers, forget the experience nor will it fade. fl ashed across apres ski TV screens. Playing in the mountains of Vancouver It was not to be, a rock band cut across Island requires a special kind of person. One the bottom of the couloir. Too steep to that is patient, has good rain gear, enjoys the comfortably down climb but too fl at to ever back country sans other people and who has have a hope of clearing in the air. This was a burning desire to try something new and the end of the line! different. I’m borderline by these standards. The next day, ten minutes out of camp The island is a special place, ask anyone who their adventures began again. Walking down has spent time there. It is not for everyone, a ridge line their progress came to a sudden but for anyone who read this story and got halt. On both sides were huge cliffs, no excited the Island’s made for you! options presented themselves except a steep, Tobin, Jamie, Matt and I were defi nitely claustrophobically narrow, snow line down to not discouraged by this adventure. On the the valley. Nervously they began descending contrary, none of us can wait for our next ice axes in hand. Tobin had opted out of attempt to ski something crazy. In fact our bringing hiking boots and had been wearing parting words were: “There’s this mountain his ski boots since eggs and bacon fi ve days that I saw.....” And if that fails, next spring, before. Tobin will be back for a third attempt on Crampons strapped on he kicked his way the Golden Hinde. I am positive about that. downwards. Jamie now in his hiking boots Maybe I will join him. Who knows, maybe followed. In places the snow disappeared the weather will smile on us. WI Ryan Stuart somewhere in the clag and the duo lowered their packs and carefully on King’s Peak 18 Story & Pictures by Alex Baechler

t all began with a phone junction campsite, some where call. Gerry’s voice on off the West Main. Pete was the line Arch-treasure. to arrive later in the evening. It’s on. I knew this was The basic plan was hashed coming. Gerry and I out over stir fried rice and I had been thinking of caught up on everyones recent this trip for some time developements. The Aussies and had made plans were sympathetic about the for the trip a month earlier employment situation. “Ahhh, Iin Gold River. A good group whad ya go’an do that for!” had come together and I really These guys cave for a living wanted to go. The only hitch and then cave on their days was, since then I had started off. a new job. I had already quit That night we went over one job to go caving with the trip plan and decided to Ger. I thought it would be sort gear in the morning. That irresponsible to do it again. left enough time to make a www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca

Three days rigging fi rst pits quick trip to Pelucidar. A cave Friday night Saturday, through which was a short distance trip the voice said. It seemed from camp with some very fate and tenuous fi nancial interesting formations, Soft security were on my side, I Calcite, Moon Milk, Soda could go. Straws. Thursday night we The next morning I awoke confi rmed, I got directions, “I’ll early, conditioned by a forty leave a map at the Nimpkish hour work week. To everyones store. Bring a rope”. This was amazement we were eating west coast adventure • the extent of our planning. breakfast at seven thirty. After Friday after work it was all the sorting was done it raining hard as I drove north. was about nine a far cry from I heard thunder shower the crack of noon everyone warnings on the radio. Reports accustomed to. The two teams of Arch trips gone awry seeped entered their respective caves WILD ISLE ISLE WILD into my consciousness. a little after ten am. Mark, I arrived at the Nimpkish Gerry, and I negotiated the store. The map was present preliminary muddy crawls of and accurate and I arrived to Treasure Cave hopping to meet fi nd Gerry, Jeff, Devin and the other team some where the Aussies (Mark and James) beyond the mid-point. I took Gerry, Jeff, Devin, Alex, Mark,

camped out at the road a small pendulum while James & Pete Poloop Sump Cave Mark Hassel descending #2 Treasure

19 muntering a hand line. A wake up call Arch at the less obvious junctions. Finally, calmly rigged his descender and lower for the newbie. I told myself ìbe careful, we reached the end of our progress at over the edge, returning moments later think, make deliberate actions.î And then Poloop Sump. There we waited for the with the rescued gear. After eleven hours uttered sheepish apologies. Arch team. We ate nuts, smarties, donned Mark continued to show great depth, both Marks route fi nding sped us through warm layers, and listened in the darkness mentaly and physicaly. passages and over a series of drops until for the Arch team. I wasnít sure at fi rst It wasn’t long after that the indigo sky we reached an amazing phreatic tube that if it was an auditory hallucination when at the Arch entrance appeared above us. just went on and on. Its surface sculpted I fi rst heard them. Then from behind Stew, Pete’s dog was there to greet us. We by water into limestone waves. It was like my eyelids I saw the light. As each Arch made our way up the trail to the vehicle we were inside something alive. We knew member descended the excitement grew. that awaited and drove we were making good time when began Excited faces emerged from under the back to camp. Once reunited we to climb the ramp. Picking out waypoints waterfall, food, photo opps, and route exchanged stories, everyone had measuring our progress on the survey information were exchanged. Realising something to say about the cannonball we reached a defi nitive landmark, The this was only the half way mark we crawl. We shared in beer and pasta. Cannonball Crawl. deciced press on. We would meet again on Mark and Petes’ enthusiasm for the The Cannonball Crawl is a section ofthe the surface. underground environment kept them cave where a passage converges from Beyond the waterfall, Ger and I looked going long after I slipped into a food- above and has launched thousands of on as Mark’s light disappeared up the induced coma. grapefruit sized rocks down into the room below. I stood there staring blankly at the pool of rock choking of the passage. Ger descended to begin excavating, the slope of stones shifting under his feet sending rock down obstructing the faint routeahead. Gerry made good progress. The sound of all the boulders colliding with one another down the crawl was incredible. After a good session of excavating it still looked tight and the slope of the rocks had become more unnervingly convex. Mark and I suggested we take turns digging. I gingerly made my way past Ger and crawled down to the now obvious passage on my belly. Rock slid down the passage, it did look tight. I began to do some gardening. As Gerry Campbell in Pelucidar Cave. Photo: Alex Beachler I worked I suddenly realized I rope. Then the shower of rock began and The next day was spent refueling, was in the crawl. Boulders pressed against we had to take refuge in the wet and cleaning gear and perpetualy being on my belly and the smooth limestone cieling windy section of cave. The upper the verge of breaking camp. Sometime against my back. It was undoubtedly section of the pot was loose and caked in that afternoon our convoy drove up to a strange sight all those cannonballs gravel, Shelter by the waterfall seemed our the corduroy road and down the spurs funnelling into the passage and just two only option. I was next on rope and the and main lines to the highway. Iím legs sticking out. As I pulled myself pit seemed to go on forever, thirty-eight not sure when the realization of what through the crux I rolled on the boulders metres. I’m sure it seemed like forever weíd done really dawned on me. I like they were ball bearings. A big grin to Gerry down in the sump with rock think the big grin appeared some where surfaced on my face and I wanted to do raining down on his head. on the road above Nimpkish Lake. It it again. Then I looked back to see Gerry It was all up from there, seven pitches wasn’t the distance covered, the depth come through and I decided maybe not. ascending and de-rigging along the way. achieved, or the duration underground. As Mark followed I decided defi nitely not. By this time I was pretty fatigued. As I think the exchange was the greatest Going up would certainly not be as easy Mark and I wrestled with rope and haul achievement and this I know for certain, as the other team can attest. bags on our last pit, the line suddenly the exchange would never have been With the crawl behind us we traveled jerked and we heard a solid thump. One possible without the character of the quickly through the remainder of treasure. of our gear bags had just plummeted. team. Seeking out good air fl ow eminating from Mark’s characteristic reaction was to 20 BACK COUNTRY TRIPS M RO F MT. WASHINGTON

If yo-yo skiing on the Mt. Washington area are 92 F 14 (Oyster River) and generally ski off the west side of the lifts should ever begin to wear thin on 92 F 11 (Forbidden Plateau). They are plateau, towards the col between Elma you, there are a number of interesting an essential piece of equipment, but the and Mt. Brooks, and then return to back country trips possible from the terrain is so broken up that they do not the Lake Trail by crossing Lake Helen Paradise Meadows parking lot. None replace careful route fi nding. Mackenzie. This can also serve as an require camping out and some can almost alternate ascent route. be done before lunch, and certainly MT. ELMA before the cinnamon bun supply at Mount Elma has a large, gently sloping the Nordic Lodge is likely to run out. AROUND MT. BROOKS summit plateau that provides wonderful, Some of the trips provide almost ideal Follow the well trodden path towards gentle telemark terrain. It is most easily introductions to back country skiing. the Forbidden Plateau from the Lake reached from the Lake Trail, one of the While generally short, the trips are Trail through the gap between Mts. groomed cross country trails. not without the normal back country Elma and Brooks. Carry on towards Leave the Lake Trail just after Kooso challenges: navigation, white-outs, Hairtrigger Lake and Strata Mtn. and Lake, and traverse above the lake into avalanches, skiing accidents, etc. all need turn right (down) along the foot of the a gap to the south east. Beyond the to be considered. As to ski equipment, mountain. A long gentle ski takes you gap, follow an open bench southward, we fi nd short, fat telemark skis with fi sh down to the short, steep, forested slopes to where it starts to drop off down to scales and climbing skins (for long, steep above Divers Lake. Depending on snow Lady Lake. Instead of dropping off, turn ascents) most suitable. All the routes conditions, the ski down to the lake can

www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca right and work your way up the fairly involve some skiing through trees, it be a bit of a challenge. Walk out across steep northwest ridge of Elma to the helps to be able to turn in whatever the Divers and Rossiter Lakes, and on down summit plateau. There is a short, steep snow conditions happen to be. There is to the road crossing of Piggott Creek and mildly exposed stretch, which can cell phone coverage along most of the at the confl uence of Piggott and Goss be climbed on foot. routes in case that helps you relax. creeks, and on upwards back to the For the return trip we The topographic map sheets for the biathlon rifl e range, and the cinnamon buns beyond. west coast adventure • WILD ISLE ISLE WILD

21 STRATA MOUNTAIN AROUND STRATA MTN. CASTLECRAG MOUNTAIN There is an eminently skiiable route A similar, somewhat longer and more For big open slopes in spectacular up and down Strata Mountain from the interesting trip is possible on the far side scenery the slopes leading up from Moat south-east corner. Combining this with of Strata Mountain by dropping down Lake towards the shoulder immediately a ski down to Diver Lake makes a most to Divers Lake from McPhee Lake. The to the north of Castlecrag Mountain enjoyable trip. drop-off into Goss Creek looks rather are hard to beat. The sheer distance of forbidding but there is an easy, pleasant getting there and back might make you MT. BROOKS ski route down to Simms Lake, that miss the cinnamon buns, but there is For variety of terrain and good views, this follows some benches above Goss Creek. much compensation in terms of wide WI is probably the best of the lot. We tend to Beyond Simms Lake, it is a gentle ski out tele-turning terrain. through open woods to Divers Lake approach it via the Lake Trail, which one by Rolf Kellerhals follows to the foot of the steep hill below Lake Helen Mackenzie. Turn off to the right here and cross Piggott P Creek on the footbridge of the summer trail. Rossier to Courtenay, Lake Campbell River Immediately beyond the bridge, turn & Highway 19 right again and follow the creek more or

L I less downstream for approximately half a Battleship A TR Divers Lake Lake EK E R C kilometre, to where it starts to drop off E Lake Helen DO V steeply in a gully. Traverse up to the left (not Mackenzie too steeply) out of the valley, cross a gully or Mt Brooks Sunrise two to reach the small, unnamed lake and Lake Lady Strata Mtn Lake wetland at the foot of the northeast slopes Jutland Mtn Elma of Mt. Brooks. Here one takes aim for the Mountain Circlet prominent saddle in the north ridge of Mt. Lake Brooks. The slopes look densely wooded, STRATHCONA PROVINCIAL PARK and they are for some distance, but they do Mount open up into good, albeit steep, ski terrain Regan Mt Drabble BE CHE Moat Lake R TR approximately half way up. The north ridge Mt Albert AIL Edward Indianhead is then followed to the summit. The two CRUICK Mountain SHA very steep, but short rises can usually be NK CANYON climbed on skis and skins by staying just Alderman Lakes inside the trees on the west side (right). Castlecrag Mtn We once saw some snowboard tracks on this ridge, never any ski tracks, though!

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Kayak Tours Cycling Tours Whether you are pushing the limits or Outfitter Store seeking tranquility in nature First Aid Instruction we sell the gear that gets you there! Lessons Two Locations to Serve You Outfitter Store Rental Store 471 Trans-Canada, Duncan 1765 Cowichan Bay Rd beside Bow-Mel Chrysler at the Bluenose Marina (250) 338-8999 250 748-0512 250 748-0511 [email protected] www.ecowest.com 1-888-326-9378 www.mountainmeadowssports.com 368 5th Street, downtown Courtenay 22 EDITORS CHOICE' Scott KennedyICE CLUB Wins $100 C anadian he fi rst rule of ice climbing: So with virtually no consequence Rockies You do not talk about to putting yourself at risk, you classic Polar ice climbing. The second eliminate any reason to actually risk T C ircus, rule of ice climbing: You do NOT in the fi rst place. Besides, technology located along talk about ice climbing. has provided an alternate source the Jasper Why do we subscribe to this secret of excitement; you can just hitch highway. It society of cold weather masochists? yourself up to the good ol’ Sony still brings a sly Why do we subject our bodies to Playstation and fi ght the “pretend” smile to my face such misery? Frozen fi ngers, numb bad guys all day. In the end, all you’ll when I feet and bashed knuckles are all part end up with is sore thumbs and the remember of the game. The goal is to snivel distant stare of a doped up mental climbing the ninth up a frozen sheet of ice, no thicker patient. In the grand scheme of and fi nal pitch than a box spring. Add on top of things, you will be just as safe as without gloves. The that, falling ice blocks the size of you were the day before. gloves had become wet microwave ovens and the distinct So what does this have to do and froze solid; they had possibility of the whole waterfall with ice climbing? turned into frozen blocks detaching from the mountain. Everything. of fl eece and Gore-Tex. Delivering climber and climb to the As humans we have evolved There was no way I was valley below in several more pieces from Neanderthals, who when going to let a little detail like then what you started with. It they weren’t busy inventing the that get in my way. I did the makes no sense. A wise man once wheel or discovering fi re, they only logical thing, stuffed the said that ice climbing is equal parts, were out chasing saber-toothed gloves in my coat and sucked ‘pain, cold and fear’. Any sane tigers with sticks and rocks. A it up. So off I went, in -15C person would tell you to give up this millenium of primal existence is weather, bare hands, and a big foolish pursuit. Rather spend the not easily forgotten. Buried deep grin. When I topped out, my hands winters indoors snuggled in front within our genetic code is the were bloody and so was the climb. of the fi re with a glass of wine and intrinsic need for adventure; the At that moment, I truly knew your sweetheart. Dreaming about need to fend for ourselves, and what it meant to be alive. I warmer times. emotional win. Through the industrial age had touched my fear and moved www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca But we keep at it. We get out of peaks and and now into the computer age, through the pain. The exposure, the bed at un-godly hours to load the car valleys. Our technology has evolved at a startling psychological protection, and the and drive to the hills. Once there ultra safe, ultra high tech world rate. Perhaps it has evolved too fast marginal tool placements were all we will spend the rest of the day has evolved into a gray existence of for our own good. Technology is necessary to the experience. They scratching and clawing up the ice, status quo. We need to experience advancing faster then the human were the mental reminders that I on the verge of tears pretty much reality in order to remind ourselves genome can grow with it. We had tickled the dragon, and stared the whole way through. that we are alive. Only when we see are being left behind by our own the beast down. In every sense, I What’s the attraction? Why our own blood, do we know for sure creation. was alive and in control of my own would we subject ourselves to what that it fl ows through our veins. You can even see this in the destiny. the vast majority of sane, ‘well In the quest for reality, a few of world of climbing. Sport climbing It’s these moments of raw emotion adjusted’, people avoid like the us have latched onto the idea of revolutionized the climbing world. that you see the world with new plague? I think the answer is climbing frozen waterfalls. When The idea with bolted sport climbs you swing your ice axe into an over eyes. You have found the secret to west coast adventure • something somewhat less tangible, was to push the limits of pure life, you have discovered that in this having more to do with Darwin sized pop-sickle and your knuckles technical ability, while removing day and age, it is still possible to step than the X-Games. ache from the pain of punching much of the risk associated with beyond the safety net. You step into The world today is fi lled with the ice, you know you’re onto traditional climbing. While the limits a reality that has consequences and an overwhelming amount of something. As you feel the blood of gymnastic ability did go through rewards beyond your dreams, and, technology. Quite appropriately return to your frozen hands and the roof, there was a price to pay. In for the fi rst time in your life, done most of this technology is designed waves of pain fl ow through your the process we sanitized our sport, something real. WILD ISLE ISLE WILD to make the world a safer place, digits, you know you’ve found it. removing half of the equation.By So what does this say about ice eliminating the bulk of the risk that removing the risk from climbing, Reality. climbers? Are we the only ones used to come with day to day life. we created a sport that fi t right in ‘The fi rst time somebody goes ice out there who have fi gured out the All the new cars are built like tanks; with the trend society was setting. climbing their ass is marshmallow. secret to life? Has the rest of the air bags, side impact panels, and We changed climbing from “real After a few times, they are carved world turned a blind eye to the crumple zones make it safer then risk” to “perceived risk” ensuring out of wood.’ beauty of actually living your life? ever to drive like an idiot. Besides our safety, but only providing an You spend your days counting the If that’s true then maybe it’s best if you do manage to somehow drive illusion of real life. hours until your next climb; waiting to keep a lid on this little club, and off a cliff, you’ll be out of the As humans we need to feel; we to come alive again. Ice climbing leave the rat race to the rats. hospital the next day. The medical need to experience both positive and is the reason you do chin-ups, and Now that’s a club worth fi ghting technology exists to put your head negative feelings, about ourselves, keep your car running. All you can for. WI through the business end of a wood and the world around us. We have think about is climbing. Photo: Canmore Alberta chipper, without so much as a scar. created a world that is void of such Last winter I climbed the Scott Kennedy 23 TOY BOX PLATYPUS® GRAVITY FEED SYSTEM

Seattle, WA — With this new system from Platypus, you can fi lter drinking water while you sleep, set up camp, or go hiking. Set the system up before you retire for the night and when you awake, you’ll have 4 liters of clean, ready-to-drink water. Gravity forces water through the fi lter, so it’s not Haida Gwaii VOICES FROM necessary to spend time or energy pumping The Queen it yourself! THE SUMMIT The Platypus Gravity Feed System can Charlotte Islands The World’s Great Mountaineers on be used with most popular backcountry water the Future of Climbing. ® fi lters. (We recommend the SweetWater By Dennis Horwood and Tom Parkins VOICES FROM THE SUMMIT: The Guardian™ Microfi lter, also from Cascade ISBN 1-895811-78-3 World’s Great Mountaineers on the Designs.) The system consists of a wide- Heritage House Future of Climbing (National Geographic mouth Platypus Big Zip™ 4 liter reservoir Adventure Press, ISBN 0-7922-7958-1, and a Platypus Water Tank 4. It’s as You’ve heard of the Queen Charlotte November 2000, $30) is an unprecedented simple as this: Islands, you even know of someone who’s collaboration by 32 of the world’s top been there, you’ve dreamed of a summer climbers — from 80-year-old legends like Sir • Use the Big Zip 4’s wide mouth to collect jaunt to this magical place. Now you Edmund Hillary to Junko Tabei, the fi rst water to be fi ltered. have the book to make it all that much woman to summit Mount Everest — who • Attach it to your fi lter’s intake hose, more worth it. The authors of this book together defi ne one of today’s most exciting using the barb connectors (included). have dedicated the pages to the pleasures and challenging sports. • Run the clean water hose from the fi lter’s of being an explorer-adventurer on the This superstar tribute to the art of outlet into the Water Tank 4. islands of Haida Gwaii. The first part mountaineering includes original • Hang the unfi ltered water in the Big of the book gives a great over view of contributions from climbing greats rarely Zip above the fi lter to create gravitational what makes the Queen Charlotte Islands represented in contemporary books. pressure. so unique and what natural wonders you Sir Christian Bonington, Reinhold • Pump a little water through to prime the might encounter while visiting the islands. Messner, fi lmmaker David Breashears, Wade system, then let it run. The heart of the book is left to describing Davis, Ed Viesturs, Riccardo Cassin, Royal and detailing some of the highlights from Robbins, Catherine Destivelle, Kitty Calhoun, You’re ready to drink or cook with four each region of Haida Gwaii. 19-year-old Leo Houlding and 22 other liters of clean water, and no worries about ‘The Islands on the Edge’, as they formidable climbers who have participated waterborne bacteria and protozoan parasites are sometime referred to, are one of in the greatest mountaineering achievements such as Giardia and Cryptosporidium. British Columbia’s truly incredible natural of the past 50 years offer refl ections and wonders. This book will intrigued anyone memories as well as predictions on topics The Platypus Gravity Feed System will who decides to wander its pages. From the crucial to the future of mountain climbing. be available in specialty outdoor stores in the individual that wants to learn a little more VOICES FROM THE SUMMIT is being spring of 2001 at a suggested retail price of about the Queen Charlotte Islands to the published to celebrate the 25th anniversary of $31.95. Consumers may call Cascade Designs adventurers who plan to spend their days the Banff Mountain Film Festival, the world’s in Seattle at rambling around these unique & amazing largest and most prestigious festival devoted 1-800-531-9531 to locate a dealer or islands. to mountain culture, attracting thousands of a catalog source. Please also visit our This well laidout and easy to read people to Banff in the Canadian Rockies each websites www.platypushydration.com and guide will be an invaluable tool to the November. www.sweetwaterfi lters.com adventures that explore these islands. In addition to the 32 essays, the book Travel on and between the islands can contains a comprehensive, illustrated history often be a daunting task for the average of the Banff Mountain Film Festival from explorer. The islands have limited roads 1976 to 1999. WILD ISLE with the majority of them being logging VOICES FROM THE SUMMIT, edited Online Bookstore roads. Travel between islands & especially by veteran mountaineers Bernadette www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca/bookstore getting down into the National Park McDonald and John Amatt, is both a Reserve, Gwaii Hannas, can be a little thorough retrospective and a thoughtful look tricky. From being on the road to planning into the exciting future of mountaineering, well before you arrive, this book will lend where new frontiers of this remarkable sport 100s of selected west coast its pages to enhancing your experience on wait to be conquered by the next generation adventure recreation titles Hadia Gwaii. for purchase online through Chapters.ca of adventurers. Review by Greg Shea 24 Polyester is the alternative. because the Gore Tex membrane will Polyester is not nearly as strong as not breathe unless the face fabric is nylon for it’s weight, nor is it as dry and repelling water. If the face TECH TIPS durable. However, it is hydrophobic; fabric is not allowing the membrane it will not absorb water. Great. Why to breathe then you get wet from the isn’t all gear made of polyester? For inside out, because your perspiration By Chris Perreault a few reasons: polyester is heavier, is condensing on the inside of the oday is offi cially the fi rst tension that prevents them from less durable and more expensive jacket. If your jacket is well used or day of winter and I just breaking down into vapor molecules than nylon. Polyester, however, is more than a year old then chances are saw someone wearing with out heat or pressure. That is why more than adequate for most of you have worn off the DWR. Not a Tshorts. I’m not water droplets cannot pass through people’s gear requirements, especially problem. There are two very effective complaining. I love nice weather the Gore Tex membrane. This the mountain tough guy. Because ways of restoring the DWR of any more than anyone, but winter is membrane is then laminated to a face polyester will not absorb any water, equipment; Nikwax and Revivex. here and it will start to rain, and fabric and sent to the manufacturer polyester gear will not wet-out. This There are other alternatives but none that means pulling out the Gore Tex for construction. That’s it. Gore Tex allows the Gore Tex membrane to work as well. The Nikwax wash gear. Next to the new generation is very simple. breathe a lot better in most conditions in is very effective as it saturates of snowshoes, there isn’t any more There are a vast variety of different and that means your equipment your entire garment in DWR inside controversy over a piece of equipment face fabrics in use today. Most are will keep you dryer. Polyester is and out. Sprays are convenient and than over Gore Tex outerwear. compromised of nylon and some are fi nding it’s way into some outerwear quick but because they are spayed on, Over the years I’ve found that of polyester. Fleece and other face and equipment, like jackets and tent not washed in, they will not last as people either love or hate their fabrics can be used also. Nylon is fl ys, because of its water and UV long. The bottom line is; these pieces Gore Tex jackets and pants, but few light, very strong and durable. It is resistance. of equipment require maintenance. people understand their equipment the most used fabric in outerwear They key to keeping any Less maintenance than your car and and even fewer people understand and equipment. Ironically it’s also waterproof breathable equipment you probably use them more. So stop how to maintain it. It does work hydrophilic; it loves to absorb water working at all is maintenance. complaining about being wet and even when it seems it isn’t and with and will do so very quickly. This Maintenance is quite simple. Wash start taking care of your gear. You regular maintenance you can keep means that your rain jacket and your gear when it gets dirty. If spent the money; take care of your dry for years. Really! tent fl y will absorb water. Why do your gear is tough enough for the stuff and you’ll get long life and value Okay. Let’s get the scientifi c stuff companies choose nylon? Because mountains it can certainly handle a from your purchase. out of the way. Gore Tex is a Tefl on of it’s durability, great strength to ride in the washing machine and will Guaranteed to keep you dry; not membrane. It functions by being weight ratio, breathability, fast time love the dryer, but check the label for a chance. The climate and humidity micro-porous. These micro-pores of drying, and lower cost. Also, specifi cs. Use non-detergent soaps on the coast will overwhelm most allow water vapor, or perspiration, to when properly maintained with a like Nikwax Tech Wash if your gear outerwear in four or fi ve hours of pass through the membrane because DWR(Durable Water Repellent, a is fi lthy. If it just needs a bath toss it exposure. If you refuse to maintain it is much smaller than the pores. Tefl on fi nish that repels water by in to the machine with nothing other your gear it will only take minutes. www.wildislemagazine.bc.ca The membrane does not allow water smoothing fabrics so water cannot than warm water and rinse out the Guaranteed replaced if leaking or droplets to pass through because they stick, like your frying pan) it resists grime. falling apart; you bet. Is there are larger than the pores. Water water and compliments the Gore Tex When your jacket has mud and anything better to use? No, except droplets have integrity called surface membrane very well. dirt ground into it you’re abrading your brain. Don’t climb mountains the face fabric and causing the nylon in the rain and not expect to get fi bers to break. You may even tear wet. But hey, your not sugar and the the Gore Tex membrane that could mountains will still be there on the cause an unwarrantable leak. Once nice days. We live in a world where broken the fi bers stand out from we get what we pay for. Buy your the jacket and will pull water in. gear to fi t your needs and take good Washing removes abrasive dirt and care of it. Nothing comes easy, but lengthens the life of your equipment. that’s why we love our sport. Play west coast adventure • When the face fabric is clean it repels safe. WI water better. This is very important

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