Good-Living : a Practical Cookery-Book for Town and Country

J^l/SEHOLD EmTIOjf .- r Saj^ Van Bu^h ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY Cornell University Gift of Thomas Bass The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/cletails/cu31924090155767 CORNE L UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 1924 090 155 767 Fvitnam's HomemaKer Series ; ; HOUSEHOLD EDITION GOOD-LIVING A PRACTICAL COOKERY-BOOK FOR TOWN AND COUNTRY BY SARA VAN BUREN THIRD EDITION, WITH ADDITIONAL MATERIAL * We may live without poetry, music, and art We may live without conscience and live without heart We may live without friends ; we may live without books ; But civilized man cannot live without cooks. * He may live without books—what is knowledge but grieving ? He may live without hope—what is hope but deceiving ? He may live without love—what is passion but pinii^ ? But where is the man that can live without dining ? ** Lucile "—OwHN Meredith. G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS New York London 27 AND 99 West Twenty-third Street 24 Bedford Street, Strand Copyright^ 1890 BY SARA VAN BUREN BRUGI^RE Copyright, 1908 BY SARA VAN BUREN MEER for additional material Ube fmfcftecboclter I>rc00, flew Vorft PREFACE TO NEW EDITION. In offering this new chapter (see p. 564) the author has deemed it unnecessary to multiply the technical details of the preparation of many of the dishes, the body of this work containing full instructions as to the foundation sauces, and processes of cooking. In the Index will be readily found answers to every question that may arise as to manner and method. In some instances, however, for very important new dishes, more detail is given. The space being limited, it has seemed to the author better to give as many new receipts as may be compatible with perfect clearness, always with the chief purpose in mind of making the receipts practical. Many receipts are absolutely new. Others are new to this work, especially the receipts for chaud-froids and the finer grade of jellied dishes, to which the author begs to draw particular attention, as they hold a very high place in the finest French cuisine. '' The simplified details of these prepa- rations are most carefully studied, with the earnest desire of bringing these gastronomical dainties within reach of every housekeeper. Where artichokes are called for, the author begs to say that " fonds d'artichauts " are now to be had in tins, and of an excellent quality, but urges that, in all cases where the receipt does not direct to cut up the artichokes, those of largest circumference may be selected, the small ones being quite useless to serve whole. IV PREFACE TO NEW EDITION. French leaf-gelatine is excellent and recommendable and perfectly obtainable at large grocery-shops. It requires no soaking, which in many cases simplifies the preparation of jellied dishes. Antwerp, Belgium, February, igo8. PREFACE. It is proposed, in this present work, to make an attempt to carry the simplicity and exactness of the science of cookery one step forward, and thus contribute toward bringing this most excellent and necessary branch of chemistry (of which cooking certainly forms a part) into the more imme- diate and practical use of our own households. It is most earnestly desired to help house-keepers to set forth a dainty table at moderate outlay, and to give them receipts so clearly and accurately explained that the percentage of success shall be materially increased—granted that the same house-keeper or her cook shall bring to the undertaking an average amount of intelligence ; for, no matter how much pains any writer or compiler of cookery-books may take to make receipts clear and practical, the same necessity exists as that recognized by the great painter, who, when asked how he mixed his colors, replied, " With brains, sir." There has been, within the last few years, a marked im- provement in the designation of the various ingredients and their quantities to be used in the preparation of dishes ; it is much less common nowadays than formerly to be told to " take some " of this, that, or the other, thereby leaving the chance of success entirely dependent upon the accident of guessing happily, or otherwise, at the relative proportion of the component parts of dishes. The noticeable improve- ment in this reject is already a stride taken in the right direction, and receives full consideration in the present work. It is frequently found to be a stumbling-block to the success of a dish that the time for the fire to do its work is not ; vi PREFACE. specified. This last must be recognized by all as being a most important factor in the case. Of course, it is often impossi- ble to lay down fixed rules on this subject ; but it is possible to give an approximate idea—to give an average of time, which shall be dependent only to a certain extent upon con- comitant circumstances, notably upon the heat of the fire this latter depending, not upon the maker of the cookery- book, but upon the maker of the fire. Surely, with experience to guide, and an earnest desire to throw light upon this important point, we ought and must be able to improve upon " " the old-fashioned cook until done ; which form of phrase conveys to the amateur, or to the inexperienced cook, no idea whatsoever as to whether allowance should be made of six hours or six minutes for the fire to do its share in the preparation of the dish to be served. This, therefore, is the point to which much study has been devoted, for decisions upon which the best authorities have been consulted, and unlimited tests made, with, it is believed, results that will be of, sub- stantial service to many struggling souls. Especial attention has been given to our conventional, simple, home dishes, which, as a rule, are not sufficiently noticed ; it being taken for granted, apparently, that, on ac- count of their simplicity, directions are unnecessary. This mistake causes the results which are witnessed daily ; the simpler the thing, the worse it is done. Take, for example, tea. How very easy it is to make, and yet how many are there who make it really well ? Another example : In one instance met with, the subject of " Roast Beef " is disposed of with about half a dozen lines as to the cooking, a few more as to the serving and remarks—leaving, practically, the whole success to the brain and experience, or zi«-experience, of the cook. Now if the cook knows, she requires no re- if, ceipt ; on the other hand, she is ignorant and requires a receipt, it should certainly be a full and clear one, from which she can work with the fairest chance of success ; failing to find this, the result, nine times out of ten, is badly roasted beef. For these reasons, the receipts for roasting meats. ; PREPACK. vii poultry, game, etc., have been most carefully studied, even in the smallest detail. There is a trite old saying to the effect " " that If a thing is worth doing at all, it is worth doing well , to nothing does it apply more correctly than to the question of cooking; therefore, even in the least of these receipts, pains have not been spared to enable the cook, be she amateur or otherwise, to turn out, no matter how simple the menu, dishes that shall be successful, appetizing, and com- plete. An effort has been made to save from the general fate, a number of good, old-fashioned receipts, which are gradually being elbowed out, and their place taken by elegant novel- ties which have, perhaps, not a fractional part of their relish to recommend them. But attention is called to the fact that,, while plain, old-fashioned dishes have their place and share in the present book, it is far from being devoted solely to them. This work is not designed for chefs de cuisine, but for that large class of house-keepers who have a proper appreciation of the value of " Good-Living " as being, obviously, conducive to health and domestic happiness. For young house-keepers, who have their experience to gain ; it is sincerely hoped that this present will assist them to purchase that same experience at the expense of far fewer failures in the way of dinners, far less outlay and waste of good materials, and far less useless expenditure of nerve-force. Also, forthe young cook, who has a worthy desire to improve herself. It has, therefore, been made a rule to admit no receipt which does not bring with it as recommendation, first of all, acceptability then simplicity of execution, and, possibly not least important consideration, moderate outlay—to furnish the best for the least cost—a good cuisine, and, at the same time, an economical one. To this end have been eschewed all fanci- fully-extravagant receipts, calling for condiments which are not habitually in use, or for an excessive quantity of any very expensive materials. As there are many books where receipts of this latter class may be found, it has been deemed unadvisable to add one to that vast collection. : ; viii PREFACE. An earnest endeavor has been made to collect a series of dishes to please all palates, the gourmet's included. There will, therefore, be found a large number of receipts for the daintiest tastes, selected from many countries, to suit the various requirements of our cosmopolitan community.

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