cocotravel

SOUTH TYROL — birthplace of the Wanderers

Words by Caoilfionn Rose

ack in November of Austrian and Italian cultures. we had the pleasure Once part of a wider Austro- South Tyrol of visiting South Hungarian empire, it was Tyrol, an enclave of commandeered by Italy in northern Italy nestled 1918. Tere are three languages seemed to us in the shadows of the spoken here; German (the main Bmajestic peaks of the Dolomites. language), Italian and the local the perfect It’s a beautifully bucolic province dialect, Ladin. Before our trip situated on the Austrian border, we had researched the area and about halfway between Verona read about the diferent languages fusion of and Innsbruck, lined with spoken, but we weren’t prepared vineyards, medieval castles, for how much the Austrian Italian churches, alpine grasslands, apple culture infltrated this Italian orchards, snow-capped mountains province. Despite Mussolini’s and ski-pistes. Any clued-in ferce eforts to try and strip the romance person will be aware that, as a Austrian culture from the area general rule, Italian and German by forbidding residents from and charm, cultures do not mix. If anything, speaking German and enforcing they couldn’t be more paradoxical Italian language and culture into in economics, landscape, daily activities, locals fought Austrian architecture, mannerisms, food for their freedom and unique and art. South Tyrol presents itself cultural identity. Many wish that as the geographical embodiment South Tyrol was independent of strength and of this paradox. Italy, and those natives we spent First, a little background time with remarked that they felt practicality. for you. South Tyrol is an neither German nor Italian, but autonomous province that South Tyrolean. draws its charm from a fusion

112 House of Coco Some might assume that the province would sufer from an infnite identity crisis with schools being divided according to mother tongue and language barriers causing integration issues, as well as tensions surrounding those who bear a strong sense of national identity and do not wish to be independent of Italy. Although this is the case in some areas of the province, South Tyrol seemed to us the perfect fusion of Italian romance and charm, Austrian strength and practicality. Fortuitously, South Tyrol survived its parental tug of war, and although some parts of life here are unquestionably Germanic and others Italian, this idyllic province is a remarkably idiosyncratic part of Europe. It is a place of ceaseless cultural contrasts and crossroads, which over time have been able to nurture a blossoming economy, high standard of living

House of Coco 113 and boundless propensity for sentiment of what it is to live pronounced [hai-mat], is a initiative. in such an inimitable region. German word with no English When driving up the winding From their architecture to their equivalent - it denotes the roads towards the mountains, food, their wine to their art, relationship of a human being one can’t help but feel awash South Tyroleans show a rigorous towards a certain spatial social with creativity and imaginative spontaneity and an explorative unit forming a contrast to social ideas. Tere’s something about vision that goes beyond the peaks alienation. Wanderer is a project the crisp, fresh air, unadulterated of the Dolomites. centred on South Tyroleans who landscapes and poetic tune of travel the world and spread their another language foating into n fact, South Tyrol’s creative wings but also, as part of our ears that inspires us. Te current creative scene the Wanderer collective, gather in same goes for the South Tyrolean lives, breathes and inspires an exciting location in South natives who have not allowed the on more than fve Tyrol for one day to share their imposing mountains that encircle continents. Jasmine experiences, inspire those who the region to inhibit their creative Deporta (photographer), follow and create a piece of senses. Alpine life isn’t just days Elisa Bergmann and Nadja heimat. Te organisation is a spent on the slopes and après- Pugneth (fashion designers) are network of more than 50 creative ski belly-warming boozy nights. all exemplary creatives in their leaders in their individual feld, On the contrary, it presents respective felds and soon came to making for an enthralling, a number of challenges to the realisation that each was not innovative project. Te founders mountain inhabitants, who must the only South Tyrolean making hope that the Wanderer initiative house the ability to adapt, use waves in the artistic world. Te is adopted, regionally, nationally swif ingenuity when it comes to trio wanted to bring their and internationally. handling problems posed by the creativity home, to inspire others Experiencing the Wanderer extreme conditions, and a strong and give back to their region what initiative while visiting South creative spirit to maintain sanity it so fuidly gifed to them in Tyrol was more than just amidst the harsh winters. abundance. Tey acted on this inspiring, instilling us with Te creativity visible in South initiative to produce the thoughts and ideas about our own Tyrol’s core art felds, as well ‘Wanderer’ project. Wanderer is lives and projects. Te creativity as their cultural and creative founded on a passion for the arts, seeping from the pores of the sectors, expresses the very but also for heimat. Heimat, group’s members was palpable,

114 House of Coco leaving us with a hunger for visuals that only flm can capture, from 100 countries. It is an more information from this blur the lines between fashion infnitely expanding destination vibrant collective. Before now photography and art. devoted to facilitating industry the exclusive faction had only growth and has established itself an aesthetically pleasing Tumblr Stefan Siegel – Founder and as a distinctive creative hub that to entice prying eyes, but in the CEO of Not Just A Label fosters innovation. wake of their relaunch, we wait Stefan was a master of many with bated breath to see what the Brigitte March Niedermair – tasks, leading successful Wanderers have up their sleeves. careers in modelling, fnance Photographer Meet some of the Wanderers and and economics, and fashion A fascinating woman other South Tyrolean creatives: and advertising consultancy, with efortless grandeur, Jasmine Deporta – Founding before founding Not Just A Brigitte March Niedermair Wanderer Label. He grew up in an area has been a photographer for responsible for over 40 per cent over ffeen years, shooting for Jasmine is a photographer of Italy’s high-end and luxury the likes of magazines giants by trade, however her manufacturing, cementing his Harper’s Bazaar and Wallpaper*. multidisciplinary mind tends love for fashion. Believing in the Niedermair’s photographs express to roam into other creative creativity abilities of others and a continuous dialogue between felds when liberated. Based in the respect needed in the artistic a love of commercial fashion Bolzano, South Tyrol, Deporta’s industries to promote aspiring photography and a passion for inspiration comes from a love of artists, Stefan founded NJAL fne art. Te boundaries of both colour, dreams and youth. With with his brother Daniel. NJAL an eclectic view of the world and is a pioneering global platform are continually pushed by this a ferocious ability to express it, dedicated to emerging fashion artistic alchemist whose love Deporta combines delicate and designers and ranks among the of analogue photography adds interpersonal structures with most respected websites in the a plethora of character to her relatable circumstances and fashion industry. As the world’s images. common spaces creating curious leading designer platform for A favourite of Carine Roitfeld, and alluring aesthetics. showcasing and nurturing today’s whose artistic direction seems Her sure-fre eye for an abnormal pioneers in contemporary fashion, to veer along the same path, fashion editorial, and the grainy it represents over 18,000 designers Niedermair has an intrinsic

House of Coco 115 aptitude for producing images of ceremonious perfection Her talent recently resulted in a harmonious collaboration with artist Lucy McRae and and Wallpaper* fashion director Isabelle Kountoure, where nature, art and fashion collided in an unexpected embrace. Te Wanderers fuel each others’ ideas and initiatives, creating a melting pot for support in innovation. While in South Tyrol, they invited us to explore the many accomplishments of their creative homebodies. Messner Mountain Museum (MMM) Corones - Kronplatz/Plan de Corones It’s no wonder that the star architect Zaha Hadid, who is famous for her powerful, curving forms and elongated structures that avoid right angles, found inspiration in the mountains of South Tyrol. Teaming up with Reinhold Messner, the famous mountaineer, adventurer and explorer who is renowned for making the frst ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen, the duo created the MMM Corones. Embedded within the peak of Mount Kronplatz, the museum is devoted to Alpinism’s supreme discipline. Since 2003, Messner has been working on a project developing mountaineering museums, successfully opening in fve diferent locations and uniting stories around the growth, culture, discipline and history of mountain climbing. Surrounded by the alpine peaks of the Zillertal, Ortler and Dolomite, MMM Corones is the sixth and fnal museum in Messner’s collection. Hadid’s distinctive architectural style is unmistakable in MMM. Te museum is characterised by the use of concrete as the dominant construction material, along with

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